team3s
Saturday, January 20
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
383
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 Jan 2001 11:02:47 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
Sounds like this fuse controls
everything that's wrong...I'll try swapping
it out tonight.
Thanks!!
- - Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jeff Lucius [
mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:10 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
Geddes, Brian J
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
>
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> Fuse number 4 in the multi-purpose
fuse (to the left of the driver's
> left leg) protects the
following:
>
> Audio
> Motor antenna control unit
>
Auto-cruise control
> ETACS unit
>
> The ETACS (Electronic
Time and Alarm Control System) controls the
> defroster and power windows,
among other things.
>
> Maybe this fuse is blown? This could happen
if these fellows did not
> disconnect the battery before working on the
car. See my web page
> below for location of fuses in this box.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-fuses.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>
To: "Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
>
"Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:43 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Weird
electrical problems
>
> All -
>
> I recently got my
'96 base 3kgt back from the body shop after
> repairing some front end
damage. The body work looks great, but the
> car has picked up some
weird electrical problems. All the symptoms
> seem really unrelated,
and I'm trying to find a common link between
> all of them:
>
> - Power windows work intermittently (button lights are out when
>
windows do not work.)
> - Rear defroster works intermittently (always at
the same time as the
> windows)
> - ASC light comes on, but can
never set cruise control speed (cruise
> light never comes on)
> -
No power to radio (tested with a voltometer; there is no power in
> the
mail power lead.)
>
> I can't think of damage that would cause all
this stuff, but I'd like
> to have some idea what I want them to fix
before I call the repair
> shop to complain.
>
>
Thanks,
> - Brian
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 12:54:04
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Weird electrical problems
Sounds to me like the body shop may
have missed some pinched wires or
didn't repair the harness completly.
(assuming the harness got damaged in
the wreck, which it usally does) If the
fuse was blown, the problem would
not be intermittent. Of course stranger
things have been known to happen.
Wayne
At 12:02 PM 1/19/01 ,
Geddes, Brian J wrote:
>Sounds like this fuse controls everything that's
wrong...I'll try swapping
>it out tonight. Thanks!!
>
>-
Brian
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jeff
Lucius [
mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
> Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:10 AM
> > To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Cc: Geddes, Brian J
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Weird electrical
problems
> >
> >
> > Hi Brian,
> >
>
> Fuse number 4 in the multi-purpose fuse (to the left of the
driver's
> > left leg) protects the following:
> >
>
> Audio
> > Motor antenna control unit
> > Auto-cruise
control
> > ETACS unit
> >
> > The ETACS (Electronic
Time and Alarm Control System) controls the
> > defroster and power
windows, among other things.
> >
> > Maybe this fuse is blown?
This could happen if these fellows did not
> > disconnect the battery
before working on the car. See my web page
> > below for location of
fuses in this box.
> >
> >
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-fuses.htm>
>
> > Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com> >
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>
> To: "Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
>
> "Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
> >
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:43 AM
> > Subject: Team3S: Weird
electrical problems
> >
> > All -
> >
> > I
recently got my '96 base 3kgt back from the body shop after
> >
repairing some front end damage. The body work looks great, but
the
> > car has picked up some weird electrical problems. All the
symptoms
> > seem really unrelated, and I'm trying to find a common
link between
> > all of them:
> >
> > - Power windows
work intermittently (button lights are out when
> > windows do not
work.)
> > - Rear defroster works intermittently (always at the same
time as the
> > windows)
> > - ASC light comes on, but can
never set cruise control speed (cruise
> > light never comes
on)
> > - No power to radio (tested with a voltometer; there is no
power in
> > the mail power lead.)
> >
> > I can't
think of damage that would cause all this stuff, but I'd like
> > to
have some idea what I want them to fix before I call the repair
> >
shop to complain.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > - Brian
>
>
> >
> >
__________________________________________________
> > Do You
Yahoo!?
> > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> >
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/>
>
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 12:18:07
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
The ETACS incorporates a timer that
turns the relays of various
devices off in reponse to certain conditions.
For example, with fuse #4 blown so the ETACS is non-functional,
the
power windows will still work when the ignition is turned to IG2
or
ON. However, the power windows will not work after the ignition
is
turned off. When the ETACS is functional the power windows
will
operated for 30 seconds after ignition is turned off and the
doors
have not been opened. Another symptom of failed ETACS is that
the
pop-up headlights (1st gen) will not pop-down when the ignition
is
turned off.
The ETACS section of the Stealth TIM should be
available at my web
site within a week. Several other sections are already
uploaded. See
the Stealth 316 Tech Page.
Of course, if a fuse is
blown, the cause should be determined to
avoid possible future inconvenience
or damage.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 19, 2001 12:54 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Weird electrical
problems
Sounds to me like the body shop may have missed some pinched
wires or
didn't repair the harness completly. (assuming the harness
got
damaged in the wreck, which it usally does) If the fuse was
blown,
the problem would not be intermittent. Of course stranger
things
have been known to
happen.
Wayne
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 12:20:39
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Question regarding ball bearing
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: Jim
Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
Jeff
said
>> Hi Jim,
>> When I talked to JUN their tech guy
was not in, and I have not called
>> back. Here's the number I called
562-424-7828 (CA).
>>
I called Todd at JUN Motorsports and was told
they do not and did not
make any headers for the Mitsu 3000 or the stealth. I
reread Don's
email and he had said
:
=================================================
Don [ ball bearing
turbo guy]
Hi Jeff
The BB turbo is used but it's in very nice
shape.
JUN Machine shop made this setup and as you can see from the pic
yes
the o2 sensor is still in the stock
position.
=====================================================
Notice he
he said JUN machine shop not JUN Motorsports --- I'll check
and see what he
means.
>> I don't recall the particulars, but from what I have
read, SS is not
>> the ideal exhaust manifold material.
I asked
Todd about materials and he said SS is fine if high end materials
are used
--- he said if clean a good stainless will produce a nice even
gold color
when used.
He also said they would develop a header package if the
interest was there.
I'm going to email him a picture or two of the BB headers
and maybe the
AAM headers and see what their price would be for some minimum
order.
Jim
berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 16:07:29
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers
In regard to
the use of stainless steel for headers Carroll Smith says in
"Engineer To
Win" that if stainless it to be used it should be 321 Stainless
and that it
shouldn't be painted.
Would these "potential" headers be made to mate to
a specific turbo?
Michael D.
Crose
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 15:19:23
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE:1994-1996 VR-4 options
You should be able to recreate VIN
numbers from the options you know
about, and cross referencing them to your
Engine/Chassis/Body service
manual. It's near the front, within 10 pages of
the beginning of the
manual. The numbers that don't matter, are at the very
end, but all
the ones before them can tell you what your car has, and vice
versa.
The same applies to stealths, there is only an alphanumeric or
two
different between them, so the CAPS program works for them
too.
Vinny Singh
http://www.kaizentuning.com/http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
- ----- Original Message -----
> Date:
Fri, 19 Jan 2001 11:01:41 -0500
> From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
>
Subject: Team3S: 1994-1996 VR-4 options
>
> Attention Second Gen
VR-4 owners ... I am wondering if anyone else
wants to
> submit their
information that I can send back to the list. I can
strip off
>
the VIN if you prefer but it is helpful if someone wants to search
the
CAPS
> program for a car just like theirs. I am most in need of
knowing
what
> different options are there since I am looking for a
coilover
suspension but
> without the ECS (the dreaded Sunroof or no
sunroof debate) I have a
> different spring perch in the
back.
>
> So I'd like to gather this and then work with the
suspension guys
and submit
> the results to the list. This can
also be helpful for our Team3S
page where
> we list different options
offered on cars and stuff.
>
> Here are two examples (I've stripped
the name and VIN for now since
I did
> not get confirmation if I could
release the owner's information and
it isn't
> relevant
anyway).
>
> Name: Flash!
> VIN: JA3AN74K9SY020664
>
Year: 1995
> Model: VR-4
> Color: Black
> Mfg date (on edge of
driver's door): 11/94
> Active Aero: Yes
> ECS: No
> Active
Exhaust: No
> Sunroof: Yes
> Sunroof type: Automatic
> Keyless
entry: Yes
>
> Name: <insert name here>
> VIN:
<insert VIN here>
> Year: 1995
> Model: VR-4
> Color:
Black
> Mfg date (on edge of driver's door): 9/94
> Active Aero:
Yes
> ECS: No
> Active Exhaust: No
> Sunroof: Yes
>
Sunroof type: Automatic
> Keyless entry: No
>
> -
--Flash!
>
dschilberg@freemarkets.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 14:55:41
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
Well, I pulled out the old fuse and
examined it - it was fine. I stuck a
new fuse in just for fun, but
things still didn't work. I had hoped that it
would just be a simple
thing, but unfortunately it doesn't look that way.
Now I get to deal with the
body shop again...oh joy. :(
- - Brian
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Wayne [
mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 11:54 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
>
>
> Sounds
to me like the body shop may have missed some pinched wires or
> didn't
repair the harness completly. (assuming the harness
> got damaged in
> the wreck, which it usally does) If the fuse was blown, the
>
problem would
> not be intermittent. Of course stranger things have been
> known to happen.
>
> Wayne
>
>
> At
12:02 PM 1/19/01 , Geddes, Brian J wrote:
> >Sounds like this fuse
controls everything that's
> wrong...I'll try swapping
> >it out
tonight. Thanks!!
> >
> >- Brian
> >
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Jeff Lucius [
mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
> > Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:10 AM
> > > To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> Cc: Geddes, Brian J
> > > Subject: Re: Team3S: Weird electrical
problems
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Brian,
>
> >
> > > Fuse number 4 in the multi-purpose fuse (to the left
of
> the driver's
> > > left leg) protects the
following:
> > >
> > > Audio
> > > Motor
antenna control unit
> > > Auto-cruise control
> > >
ETACS unit
> > >
> > > The ETACS (Electronic Time and
Alarm Control System) controls the
> > > defroster and power
windows, among other things.
> > >
> > > Maybe this fuse
is blown? This could happen if these
> fellows did not
> > >
disconnect the battery before working on the car. See my web page
> >
> below for location of fuses in this box.
> > >
> >
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-fuses.htm>
> >
> > > Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com> >
>
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From:
"Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>
> > To: "Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
>
> > "Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
> >
> Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:43 AM
> > > Subject: Team3S:
Weird electrical problems
> > >
> > > All -
> >
>
> > > I recently got my '96 base 3kgt back from the body shop
after
> > > repairing some front end damage. The body work
looks
> great, but the
> > > car has picked up some weird
electrical problems. All
> the symptoms
> > > seem
really unrelated, and I'm trying to find a common
> link between
>
> > all of them:
> > >
> > > - Power windows work
intermittently (button lights are out when
> > > windows do not
work.)
> > > - Rear defroster works intermittently (always at the
same
> time as the
> > > windows)
> > > - ASC
light comes on, but can never set cruise control
> speed (cruise
>
> > light never comes on)
> > > - No power to radio (tested
with a voltometer; there is
> no power in
> > > the mail
power lead.)
> > >
> > > I can't think of damage that
would cause all this stuff,
> but I'd like
> > > to have some
idea what I want them to fix before I call the repair
> > > shop to
complain.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > -
Brian
> > >
> > >
> > >
__________________________________________________
> > > Do You
Yahoo!?
> > > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>
> >
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/>
> >
> > > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> > >
> >
> >
> >***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 15:20:57
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Michael D. Crose
> In regard to the use of
stainless steel for headers Carroll Smith says in
> "Engineer To Win"
that if stainless it to be used it should be 321 Stainless
> and that it
shouldn't be painted.
>
> Would these "potential" headers be made
to mate to a specific turbo?
>
The mounting flange for the turbo
would have to be defined --- The flange would
be relatively easy to modify to
fit various needs. A more complex issue is how the
overall package fits
together --- orientation, turbo size etc.
At this point all I'm aiming
for is a ballpark price for say, 10 headers --- if JUN
says the price
will be $5000 each then there is no sense in talking further, if he
says the
price is $28 then we'll start to talk details and I'll be talking to you
folks.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:57:21
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers
What is "wrong"
with the IHI turbos in his kit? I know lines need to be
redone and rear
intercooler pipes probably have to be attached differently,
but if this turbo
was a high perf. unit used on some rally 2.0 litre,
wouldn't two flow plenty
for a 3.0 litre? Wouldn't the ball bearing allow
it to spool quicker
with less lag? I am totally in the market for a turbo
upgrade, and my
only problem with his kit is that the front piping
incorporates a pre-cat
eliminator which makes my Stillen D.P. a problem and
would have to be
modified or replaced with an ATR or similar design. He
claims 200h.p.
(on whose dyno?) increase in power (over stock I assume-what
PSI?--15psi I
hope). I wonder what this combo will put out at 20PSI with
race
gas? Are those IHI turbos on par with 15gs, (I know Jeff, check
your
site). I want to bid on them, but I know he wants about $4000 for
his kit
and can have more made. I want to make sure its not all hype,
and that I
can make more power with the manifolds then just bolting on a set
of turbos
and changing the fuel system to match. Definately keep
us updated on your
dealings with the real JUN, cause if I could get the same
manifold
arrangement, but be able to use say a GT357 magnum and retain all
the
factory lines, that would be ideal--unless of course the IHI is much
more
efficient for our cars.
Sam
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:10:43
-0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers
Jim Berry
wrote:
> From: Michael D. Crose
>
> > In regard to the
use of stainless steel for headers Carroll Smith says in
> > "Engineer
To Win" that if stainless it to be used it should be 321 Stainless
> >
and that it shouldn't be painted.
> At this point all I'm aiming for
is a ballpark price for say, 10 headers --- if JUN
> says the price
will be $5000 each then there is no sense in talking further, if he
> says
the price is $28 then we'll start to talk details and I'll be talking to you
folks.
>
> Jim
Berry
Good luck Jim, there should be a market for headers if the price
stays under $1000 and would
place a TD04 turbo in the stock location (set-up
most people run). And to those questioning
stainless steel for headers,
tell me what would be better. BUT, make sure it is a higher
grade
stainless. Most headers out there are made out of T-304 which gets the job
done if
exhaust temps stay reasonable. Most turbo cars will have
problems with T-304 after about a
year of weekend driving. The high
temps will leach the carbon to the surface making the
header brittle
resulting in cracks (exhaust leaks). T-321 is awsome stuff but you'll
pay
for it. It cost me an extra ~$300 to upgrade from T-304 to T-321
for raw material alone.
T-321 meets aircraft standards but is rarely used on
autos due to the extra cost. (everyone
is trying to make a quick
buck).
You also need to be careful on the head-to-flange-to-tube
transition. It's hard to go from
the oval port on the head to a round
tube gradually. You can negate most of your potential
gains with a poor
transition (otherwise just keep the OEM exhaust manifold). Try to
keep
all the welds clean (inside and out) with smooth connections (roughly
equal length runners
can be achieved with a little planning) and lastly the
collector (where all three runners
come together) must be handled with
care.
If my headers ever get completed (over 6 months in the making),
I'll share pics.
Again, good luck Jim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 22:17:14
-0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers
I was wondering if any
of you guys were familiar with a coating call "Jet
Hot", could this help
regarding the heat concerns. "Jet Hot" is a white
coating they put on
header for race cars and is supposed to reduce the
header temperatures.
Is anyone familiar with this stuff and could it be
something that may
help?
Dave Best
http://davebest.topcities.com/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Gonsowski" <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
To: "Jim
Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Cc:
"Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 19, 2001 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball
bearing/stainless headers
>
> Jim Berry
wrote:
>
> > From: Michael D. Crose
> >
> >
> In regard to the use of stainless steel for headers Carroll Smith
says
in
> > > "Engineer To Win" that if stainless it to be used
it should be 321
Stainless
> > > and that it shouldn't be
painted.
>
> > At this point all I'm aiming for is a ballpark
price for say, 10
headers --- if JUN
> > says the price will
be $5000 each then there is no sense in talking
further, if he
> >
says the price is $28 then we'll start to talk details and I'll be
talking to
you folks.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
Good luck Jim, there should be a market for headers if the price stays
under
$1000 and would
> place a TD04 turbo in the stock location (set-up most
people run). And to
those questioning
> stainless steel for
headers, tell me what would be better. BUT, make sure
it is a
higher
> grade stainless. Most headers out there are made out of
T-304 which gets
the job done if
> exhaust temps stay reasonable.
Most turbo cars will have problems with
T-304 after about a
> year of
weekend driving. The high temps will leach the carbon to the
surface
making the
> header brittle resulting in cracks (exhaust leaks).
T-321 is awsome stuff
but you'll pay
> for it. It cost me an
extra ~$300 to upgrade from T-304 to T-321 for raw
material alone.
>
T-321 meets aircraft standards but is rarely used on autos due to the
extra
cost. (everyone
> is trying to make a quick buck).
>
> You
also need to be careful on the head-to-flange-to-tube transition.
It's hard
to go from
> the oval port on the head to a round tube gradually.
You can negate most
of your potential
> gains with a poor transition
(otherwise just keep the OEM exhaust
manifold). Try to keep
> all
the welds clean (inside and out) with smooth connections (roughly
equal
length runners
> can be achieved with a little planning) and lastly the
collector (where
all three runners
> come together) must be handled
with care.
>
> If my headers ever get completed (over 6 months in
the making), I'll share
pics.
>
> Again, good luck
Jim
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 22:33:39
-0500
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacement Stereo for '92 vr4
Ian:
I just put a whole
new stereo in my Stealth.
- - dash speakers are mid+highs, not a common
size (no direct replacements),
have their own capacitors to block bass
frequencies
- - door speakers are mid and low bass (no tweeters) 6.5"+
size
- - rear speakers are common 6x9" size, but not fun to get at.
their high-end
(tweeters) suck.
I put a JVC KD-LX50 head unit in my
car 45Wx4 (single DIN size), but a
double-din will fit easily. I didn't
see any double-DIN units that I liked,
and wanted the extra theft deterrent
mine provided (goes completely black
when turned off).
I also mounted a
12-disk JVC changer behind the back seats,
put 1" Infinity tweeters in the
dash (you could stay with the stock spkrs),
6.5" Infinity full-range in the
doors (factory wired in parallel with the
dash tweeters),
6x9" Infinity
full-range in the rears.
Check out the "222hp Stereo" site for some good
pics and ideas. Lots of $
in this one, but good documentation.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9907/stereo.htmlI
got the ideas for my tweeter mountings from this site, but I only spent
about
$800 total for my setup at Crutchfield. Still want to add a
powered
subwoofer, maybe some external power amps some day.
Wiring
harness is highly recommended! Available at Crutchfield, or Best
Buy
(ask their install shop), and probably other installation
places.
Crutchfield throws them in free with a purchase of stereo head
unit. They
also sent me front door speaker adapters and speaker wiring
harnesses for
free.
If you have any other questions, check out
Crutchfield for some specs on our
cars, or ask me :-)
Roger
Roskam
91 Indy Stealth RT/TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 19, 2001 12:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: Replacement Stereo for '92
vr4
> Morning everyone,
>
> does anyone know of a good
replacement for the stock single head unit in
the
> 92 3000gt? I am
looking for a cd head unit that will drive the 6 speakers.
> Are the dash
speakers tweeters? (do i need crossovers, etc) or are they
> simply
ordinary speakers? the other thing i would like to get his a
harness
>
adaptor to plug straight into the cars connectors? any ideas?
>
>
thanks
> Ian
> 92 red vr4
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:00:27
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Willow Springs...
Ken
Damn I love road racing --- for those of you
that haven't gone to a track, you
have my deepest sympathy.
No !
second trip to Willow [ big track ] ---- I love it. It's a track built for
our
car. It's billed as the fastest road track in the west and I believe it,
top average
speed is 136mph, my average is around 90 [ a touch off of the
track record ].
No walls, that's Laguna Seca, where I also lust to drive,
just high speed and no
brakes needed. Turn 8 is a 120 MPH entry and could be
maintained until the
short chute before 9 [ I'll need a testosterone
injection to keep my foot in it ].
Turn 9 is a high speed decreasing
radius turn that leads onto the front
straight so it is critical to do it
right [ I'm getting better ]. The problem is lack of
landmarks, a couple of
cones or signs would help define the turn-in to the
apex. ½ to 1 second
can be picked up here, higher exit speed would allow a
front straight speed
of 145.
At the end of the front straight I'm hitting 135 [ indicated on
speedo --- 'shrug']
heavy, late braking into turn 1 [ I brake too early and
too long ]. Next time I'll
pick up close to a second here, brake later and
carry much more speed into
turn 1 and the short chute before turn 2. You can
carry much more speed
than it looks --- the penalty for error is a serious
shunt, bad things can
happen to you and your car at 120+ if you exit the
track.
Thanks to George Kuo's advice and example I increased my speed in
turn 2,
a long constant radius carousel with a decreasing radius at the end.
I was
running it at 80+ George said he was turning 90+, lo and behold 90+ it
is.
Turns 3,4 and 5 are a close coupled pain in the ass --- it's a hard
left,
uphill right, U-turn, down-hill, outside camber, left heading into turn
6. Turn
6 is a nice full throttle uphill blind apex --- keep it full
throttle, shift from
second to third at 7000+ RPM floor it again and hit the
blind apex --- you're
aimed at a concrete culvert at the side of the
track ---- damn !!!. The apex
is at the crest of a hill where your car goes
all light and goofy, slides
sideways, grabs the road and hooks up --- God
damn I love road racing ----
I short shift into forth for turn 7 so it's nice
and easy on the hardware, get it to
120 mph for the entry into 8 and off we
go again [ next time I'll hold 120 till
the short chute --- did I say that
before ?? ] Next time I'll do it right --- did I
mention I love road racing
!!!!!!
I turned a 1 min 40.6 sec lap, my goal next time is 1m 38s --- I
think the
car could do a 1m 30s with a real pilot. I'm getting better and a
lot more
confident, I actually take time to look at my gauges, even in the
turns.
Jim
Berry
see you at Buttonwillow, The Streets of Willow is real low on my
list
of places to race with a 4000 pound
car.
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
Sent: Friday, January
19, 2001 8:51 AM
Subject: Willow Springs...
> Hey
Jim,
>
> Was your trip to WS your first time? How about a
little trip report? It
> doesn't have to be as long and detailed as
Merritt's reports. I've heard that
> WS (maybe I'm thinkg of Laguna
Seca) is a little dangerous since there are walls
> you can hit if you
slide off course...what do you think?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 23:20:58
-0500
From: Rudy Morales <
rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: O2 sensor replaced, was Re: Help, car does not start
After
replacing the O2 sensor the car is starting and running normal.
Thanks again
guys!
Rudy
At 07:32 AM 1/2/01 -0800, Jeff Lucius wrote:
>Hmmm.
How would the scanner know that the engine was running rich if
>the stock
O2 sensor was bad? Does the scanner have its own sensor?
>Seems to me that
if the mixture is rich and the stock O2 sensor shows
>that, then the
sensor is fine. Just a guess. :)
>
>Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "Rudy Morales" <
rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Sunday, December 31, 2000 2:59 PM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Help, car does not
start
>
><snip>
>looking at the scanner with the engine
running my friend said that
>it was at rich all the time (and he says it
should rich then lean
>then
>rich then lean, etc) he said it
probably is a bad O2 sensor and that
>the computer is sending too much gas
mixture and it floods
the
>engine.
><snip>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do
You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
>
http://photos.yahoo.com/>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
Rudy Morales
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:22:23
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
turbo setup
Don
A little confusion as to where this kit comes
from --- In an email to Jeff
lucius you referred to the manifolds as being
built by JUN machine shop.
Jeff and I interpreted that to mean JUN
Motorsports. I talked to Todd, the
tech/marketing guy at JUN who said he had
just returned from Japan
where he reviewed new products and there were no
3000/Stealth
manifolds on the product list.
Where does the manifold
you're building come from ???
BTY --- Roger Gerl pointed out a design
problem in the wastegate exhaust
area that could limit performance if not
corrected.
We sould also like to know the type of stainless that is being
used in
the product.
Thanks
for your response
Jim Berry
===================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Don <
dan27_@hotmail.com>
To: Jim Berry
<
fastmax@home.com>
Sent:
Thursday, January 18, 2001 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: turbo setup
>
yes this is me. I will need to have then 18T turbine housing . I don't
>
normally sell this kit so I have to order it. the exhaust manifold and
>
> the front pipe mounting will cost you around $2380. I don't know
much
> about 18T. is it BB turbo ?
>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
> To: Burin
Tunwattanapong <
dan27_@hotmail.com>
> Sent:
Thursday, January 18, 2001 16:37
> Subject: Re: turbo setup
>
>
> > Burin
> >
> > OK email it is --- a
quick question is Don, dan27 and Burin one
> > person or is there more
than one guy involved in this.
> >
> > As I said in my
previous email my thinking right now is to go with the
> > 18T turbos
--- how much do you want for the exhaust manifold and
> > the exhaust
adapter with the O2 mounting which would fit an 18T.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
> >
============================================
> > ----- Original Message
-----
> > From: Burin Tunwattanapong <
dan27_@hotmail.com>
> > To:
<
fastmax@home.com>
>
>
> > > >From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> > >
>To: "Don" <
dan27_@hotmail.com>
> > >
>Subject: Re: turbo setup
> > > >Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001
08:04:08 -0800
> > > >
> > > >Don
> >
> >I started to write a response to your email and decided it
would
> > > >be a lot easier if I talked to you ---- have you got
a phone #
> > > >and a time I can call you ???
> > >
>
> > > >Thanks Jim Berry
> >
> >
> > > >
> > > >Thanks for the response
--- a couple of additional questions
> > > >
> > >
>----- Original Message -----
> > >
>================================================
> > > > >
> 2. why was it removed ? I am selling them .
>
> > >
> > > >That part seemed obvious --- I guess the
proper question is why
> > > >are you changing your setup
???
> > >
> > > what you see on the board is my
turbo kit . i am not changing it. i
> have
> > > the same kit
up for sale.
> > >
>==========================================
> > > > > >
3. What was the performance level [ If tested ] ? you will have
>
500
> > > >and+
> > > i haven't dyno my car so
i wouldn't know . but as you can see there is
> no
> > >
cat on this set up, the header and the frontpipe flow a lot better .
>
Don't
> > > forget this is a twin BB turbo kit. it will make 500 hp
easy
> > > i prefer answering by e-mail because i don't have the
phone # at the
> > > warehouse yet i will let you know as soon as i
get it.
> > >
> > > > > hp
> > >
>
> > > > > > 4. How long was it in use
? like I said I don't know about
> the
>
> > >turbo
> > > > > but header and front pipe are
new
> > > > > > 5. What material are the headers made
of ? stainless steel
> > > > > >
6. Is the used BB setup $4k est or is that for a new unit.
>
only
> > > >the
> > > > > turbo are
used
> > > > > > 7. Who are you guys
? we are a small group of people who love
> >
> >gto.
> > > > > > 8. Will you sell the
headers only with stock flanges --- I'm
> > > >I
> >
> > > don't have a header with a stock flanges right now. but I can get
it
> for
> > > >you
> > > > > tho
>
> > > > > also thinking of using
the 18T hybred.
> > > > >
> > > > > please
let me know.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
>
> > >
_________________________________________________________________
> >
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com> >
>
> >
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 21:24:58
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Sam Shelat <
sshelat@erols.com>
> What is
"wrong" with the IHI turbos in his kit?
doesn't seem to be anything
wrong with the IHI turbos, just a bunch of
unanswered questions --- $4000 is
a bunch and we should answer the
questions.
==================================================>
>
I know lines need to be
> redone and rear intercooler pipes probably have
to be attached differently,
> but if this turbo was a high perf. unit used
on some rally 2.0 litre,
> wouldn't two flow plenty for a 3.0 litre?
Keep in mind that you're driving the turbo with a 1.5 liter engine not a
2
liter.
===================================================
>Wouldn't
the ball bearing allow
> it to spool quicker with less lag?
That
is one of the claims to fame for a BB turbo --- reduced
lag
=====================================================
.
He
> claims 200h.p. (on whose dyno?) increase in power (over stock I
assume-what
> PSI?--15psi I hope).
It's a guess on his part
--- that's one of the questions that need to be
addressed.
====================================================
I
wonder what this combo will put out at 20PSI with
> race gas? Are
those IHI turbos on par with 15gs, (I know Jeff, check your
> site).
I want to bid on them, but I know he wants about $4000 for his kit
> and
can have more made. I want to make sure its not all hype, and that
I
> can make more power with the manifolds then just bolting on a set of
turbos
> and changing the fuel system to match. Definitely
keep us updated on your
> dealings with the real JUN, cause if I could get
the same manifold
> arrangement, but be able to use say a GT357 magnum and
retain all the
> factory lines, that would be ideal--unless of course the
IHI is much more
> efficient for our cars.
He said there are more
where that came from --- he restarted the auction
but you have some time to
do some research. I too like the ball bearing turbo,
but as Roger Gerl
pointed out there is a design problem with the down pipe
that should be
corrected.
He stated a price of about $3500 for the TD05 setup which is
considerabley
less than the AAM version of the TD05 --- AAM however has some
dyno
numbers to back them
up.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 23:17:30
-0700
From: "Manoj 'Moe' Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 33% COUPON GOOD FOR 24 HOURS AT CARPARTS
Here is a copy of an
email from importhookup.com.
I thought I would pass this along.
-
-----------------------------------
Hello everyone,
Yep that's right,
the 33% off coupon has been posted today but it WILL be
good until Sunday
night, so don't miss it! Before you order you should
read the UPDATED
coupon TIP & FAQ (frequently asked questions) and
hopefully it will allow
you guys to make the order without any problems,
and if you do, you can
e-mail me and I'll try my best to help you guys out!
There is only 3 days
left for this deal so if you can PLEASE PLEASE spread
the word about
www.importhookup.com I would be very
thankful, just think
about how much you're saving and return the favor by
spreading the word
for me. Thanks!
Tim
www.importhookup.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 13:21:42
EST
From:
StevePKT77@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
O2 sensor replaced, was Re: Help, car does not start
Rudy, since you just
replaced your o2 sensor, I have a question for you (or
anyone else who
knows). When the o2 sensor goes bad, besides the engine
running rich -
are there any indicators, such as an OXS light on the dash or
the check
engine light? Cause I suspect my o2 sensor is bad but I don't have
any
dash indicators so I wanted to find out if there are any when it's bad.
Also, how do you know which o2 sensor to replace since we have two as far as
I know? I have a '92 RT. Thanks for any help.
-
-Steve
In a message dated 1/19/01 11:24:13 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu
writes:
<< After replacing the O2 sensor the car is starting and
running normal.
Thanks again guys! >>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 11:20:03
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers
Joe and
Michael
thanks for the response on the T-321 stainless --- I passed the
info on to Don
to see what they're using.
Joe wrote
.
BUT, make sure it is a higher
> grade stainless. Most headers out
there are made out of T-304 which gets the job done if
> exhaust temps
stay reasonable. The high temps will leach the carbon to the surface
making
> header brittle resulting in cracks (exhaust leaks). T-321
is awesome stuff but you'll pay
> for it. It cost me an extra ~$300
to upgrade from T-304 to T-321 for raw material alone.
>
> You also
need to be careful on the head-to-flange-to-tube transition. It's hard to
go from
> the oval port on the head to a round tube gradually. You
can negate most of your potential
> gains with a poor transition
(otherwise just keep the OEM exhaust manifold). Try to keep
> all
the welds clean (inside and out) with smooth connections (roughly equal length
runners
> can be achieved with a little planning) and lastly the collector
(where all three runners
> come together) must be handled with
care.
Seems like good advice ---- If JUN Motorsport designed the package
I expect a professional
product, they do performance stuff for a living and
seem to be respected.
Don and his ball bearing package may be every bit
as professional but he and his product
are an unknown ---- I think he's in
the New York area, it would be great if someone could
go look at the product
and give us a quick report.
Volunteers anyone
!!!!
==============================================================
>
If my headers ever get completed (over 6 months in the making), I'll share
pics.
What kind of pricing are you getting on your setup [ if
I may be so bold ] it
seems like a one-off could be nasty
expensive
Jim berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#383
*********************