team3s           Saturday, January 20 2001           Volume 01 : Number 383




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 11:02:47 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Weird electrical problems

Sounds like this fuse controls everything that's wrong...I'll try swapping
it out tonight.  Thanks!!

- - Brian

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:10 AM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Cc: Geddes, Brian J
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
>
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> Fuse number 4 in the multi-purpose fuse (to the left of the driver's
> left leg) protects the following:
>
> Audio
> Motor antenna control unit
> Auto-cruise control
> ETACS unit
>
> The ETACS (Electronic Time and Alarm Control System) controls the
> defroster and power windows, among other things.
>
> Maybe this fuse is blown? This could happen if these fellows did not
> disconnect the battery before working on the car. See my web page
> below for location of fuses in this box.
>
> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-fuses.htm
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
> To: "Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
> "Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)" <stealth@stls.verio.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:43 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
>
> All -
>
> I recently got my '96 base 3kgt back from the body shop after
> repairing some front end damage.  The body work looks great, but the
> car has picked up some weird electrical problems.  All the symptoms
> seem really unrelated, and I'm trying to find a common link between
> all of them:
>
> - Power windows work intermittently (button lights are out when
> windows do not work.)
> - Rear defroster works intermittently (always at the same time as the
> windows)
> - ASC light comes on, but can never set cruise control speed (cruise
> light never comes on)
> - No power to radio (tested with a voltometer; there is no power in
> the mail power lead.)
>
> I can't think of damage that would cause all this stuff, but I'd like
> to have some idea what I want them to fix before I call the repair
> shop to complain.
>
> Thanks,
> - Brian
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 12:54:04 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Weird electrical problems

Sounds to me like the body shop may have missed some pinched wires or
didn't repair the harness completly. (assuming the harness got damaged in
the wreck, which it usally does) If the fuse was blown, the problem would
not be intermittent. Of course stranger things have been known to happen.

Wayne


At 12:02 PM 1/19/01 , Geddes, Brian J wrote:
>Sounds like this fuse controls everything that's wrong...I'll try swapping
>it out tonight.  Thanks!!
>
>- Brian
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:10 AM
> > To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Cc: Geddes, Brian J
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
> >
> >
> > Hi Brian,
> >
> > Fuse number 4 in the multi-purpose fuse (to the left of the driver's
> > left leg) protects the following:
> >
> > Audio
> > Motor antenna control unit
> > Auto-cruise control
> > ETACS unit
> >
> > The ETACS (Electronic Time and Alarm Control System) controls the
> > defroster and power windows, among other things.
> >
> > Maybe this fuse is blown? This could happen if these fellows did not
> > disconnect the battery before working on the car. See my web page
> > below for location of fuses in this box.
> >
> > http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-fuses.htm
> >
> > Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
> > To: "Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
> > "Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)" <stealth@stls.verio.net>
> > Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:43 AM
> > Subject: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
> >
> > All -
> >
> > I recently got my '96 base 3kgt back from the body shop after
> > repairing some front end damage.  The body work looks great, but the
> > car has picked up some weird electrical problems.  All the symptoms
> > seem really unrelated, and I'm trying to find a common link between
> > all of them:
> >
> > - Power windows work intermittently (button lights are out when
> > windows do not work.)
> > - Rear defroster works intermittently (always at the same time as the
> > windows)
> > - ASC light comes on, but can never set cruise control speed (cruise
> > light never comes on)
> > - No power to radio (tested with a voltometer; there is no power in
> > the mail power lead.)
> >
> > I can't think of damage that would cause all this stuff, but I'd like
> > to have some idea what I want them to fix before I call the repair
> > shop to complain.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > - Brian
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
> >
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 12:18:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Weird electrical problems

The ETACS incorporates a timer that turns the relays of various
devices off in reponse to certain conditions.

For example, with fuse #4 blown so the ETACS is non-functional, the
power windows will still work when the ignition is turned to IG2 or
ON. However, the power windows will not work after the ignition is
turned off. When the ETACS is functional the power windows will
operated for 30 seconds after ignition is turned off and the doors
have not been opened. Another symptom of failed ETACS is that the
pop-up headlights (1st gen) will not pop-down when the ignition is
turned off.

The ETACS section of the Stealth TIM should be available at my web
site within a week. Several other sections are already uploaded. See
the Stealth 316 Tech Page.

Of course, if a fuse is blown, the cause should be determined to
avoid possible future inconvenience or damage.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <whietala@prodigy.net>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 12:54 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Weird electrical problems

Sounds to me like the body shop may have missed some pinched wires or

didn't repair the harness completly. (assuming the harness got
damaged in  the wreck, which it usally does) If the fuse was blown,
the problem would  not be intermittent. Of course stranger things
have been known to happen.

Wayne


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 12:20:39 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>

Jeff said


>> Hi Jim,
>> When I talked to JUN their tech guy was not in, and I have not called
>> back. Here's the number I called 562-424-7828 (CA).
>>
I called Todd at JUN Motorsports and was told they do not and did not
make any headers for the Mitsu 3000 or the stealth. I reread Don's
email and he had said :
=================================================
Don [ ball bearing turbo guy]

Hi Jeff
The BB turbo is used but it's in very nice shape.
JUN Machine shop made this setup and as you can see from the pic yes
the o2 sensor is still in the stock position.
=====================================================
Notice he he said JUN machine shop not JUN Motorsports --- I'll check
and see what he means.


>> I don't recall the particulars, but from what I have read, SS is not
>> the ideal exhaust manifold material.

I asked Todd about materials and he said SS is fine if high end materials
are used --- he said if clean a good stainless will produce a nice even
gold color when used.

He also said they would develop a header package if the interest was there.
I'm going to email him a picture or two of the BB headers and maybe the
AAM headers and see what their price would be for some minimum order.


        Jim berry




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 16:07:29 -0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers

In regard to the use of stainless steel for headers Carroll Smith says in
"Engineer To Win" that if stainless it to be used it should be 321 Stainless
and that it shouldn't be painted.

Would these "potential" headers be made to mate to a specific turbo?

Michael D. Crose
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 15:19:23 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE:1994-1996 VR-4 options

You should be able to recreate VIN numbers from the options you know
about, and cross referencing them to your Engine/Chassis/Body service
manual. It's near the front, within 10 pages of the beginning of the
manual. The numbers that don't matter, are at the very end, but all
the ones before them can tell you what your car has, and vice versa.
The same applies to stealths, there is only an alphanumeric or two
different between them, so the CAPS program works for them too.

Vinny Singh
http://www.kaizentuning.com/
http://manualcd.dsm.org/ - DSM & 3/S Service manuals on CDROM

- ----- Original Message -----
> Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 11:01:41 -0500
> From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
> Subject: Team3S: 1994-1996 VR-4 options
>
> Attention Second Gen VR-4 owners ... I am wondering if anyone else
wants to
> submit their information that I can send back to the list.  I can
strip off
> the VIN if you prefer but it is helpful if someone wants to search
the CAPS
> program for a car just like theirs.  I am most in need of knowing
what
> different options are there since I am looking for a coilover
suspension but
> without the ECS (the dreaded Sunroof or no sunroof debate) I have a
> different spring perch in the back.
>
> So I'd like to gather this and then work with the suspension guys
and submit
> the results to the list.  This can also be helpful for our Team3S
page where
> we list different options offered on cars and stuff.
>
> Here are two examples (I've stripped the name and VIN for now since
I did
> not get confirmation if I could release the owner's information and
it isn't
> relevant anyway).
>
> Name: Flash!
> VIN: JA3AN74K9SY020664
> Year: 1995
> Model: VR-4
> Color: Black
> Mfg date (on edge of driver's door): 11/94
> Active Aero: Yes
> ECS: No
> Active Exhaust: No
> Sunroof: Yes
> Sunroof type: Automatic
> Keyless entry: Yes
>
> Name: <insert name here>
> VIN: <insert VIN here>
> Year: 1995
> Model: VR-4
> Color: Black
> Mfg date (on edge of driver's door): 9/94
> Active Aero: Yes
> ECS: No
> Active Exhaust: No
> Sunroof: Yes
> Sunroof type: Automatic
> Keyless entry: No
>
> - --Flash!
> dschilberg@freemarkets.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 14:55:41 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Weird electrical problems

Well, I pulled out the old fuse and examined it - it was fine.  I stuck a
new fuse in just for fun, but things still didn't work.  I had hoped that it
would just be a simple thing, but unfortunately it doesn't look that way.
Now I get to deal with the body shop again...oh joy. :( 

- - Brian

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wayne [mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 11:54 AM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
>
>
> Sounds to me like the body shop may have missed some pinched wires or
> didn't repair the harness completly. (assuming the harness
> got damaged in
> the wreck, which it usally does) If the fuse was blown, the
> problem would
> not be intermittent. Of course stranger things have been
> known to happen.
>
> Wayne
>
>
> At 12:02 PM 1/19/01 , Geddes, Brian J wrote:
> >Sounds like this fuse controls everything that's
> wrong...I'll try swapping
> >it out tonight.  Thanks!!
> >
> >- Brian
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> > > Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:10 AM
> > > To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> > > Cc: Geddes, Brian J
> > > Subject: Re: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Brian,
> > >
> > > Fuse number 4 in the multi-purpose fuse (to the left of
> the driver's
> > > left leg) protects the following:
> > >
> > > Audio
> > > Motor antenna control unit
> > > Auto-cruise control
> > > ETACS unit
> > >
> > > The ETACS (Electronic Time and Alarm Control System) controls the
> > > defroster and power windows, among other things.
> > >
> > > Maybe this fuse is blown? This could happen if these
> fellows did not
> > > disconnect the battery before working on the car. See my web page
> > > below for location of fuses in this box.
> > >
> > > http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-fuses.htm
> > >
> > > Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
> > > To: "Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
> > > "Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)" <stealth@stls.verio.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 10:43 AM
> > > Subject: Team3S: Weird electrical problems
> > >
> > > All -
> > >
> > > I recently got my '96 base 3kgt back from the body shop after
> > > repairing some front end damage.  The body work looks
> great, but the
> > > car has picked up some weird electrical problems.  All
> the symptoms
> > > seem really unrelated, and I'm trying to find a common
> link between
> > > all of them:
> > >
> > > - Power windows work intermittently (button lights are out when
> > > windows do not work.)
> > > - Rear defroster works intermittently (always at the same
> time as the
> > > windows)
> > > - ASC light comes on, but can never set cruise control
> speed (cruise
> > > light never comes on)
> > > - No power to radio (tested with a voltometer; there is
> no power in
> > > the mail power lead.)
> > >
> > > I can't think of damage that would cause all this stuff,
> but I'd like
> > > to have some idea what I want them to fix before I call the repair
> > > shop to complain.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > - Brian
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> > > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> > >
> > > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
> > >
> >
> >
> >***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 15:20:57 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Michael D. Crose

> In regard to the use of stainless steel for headers Carroll Smith says in
> "Engineer To Win" that if stainless it to be used it should be 321 Stainless
> and that it shouldn't be painted.
>
> Would these "potential" headers be made to mate to a specific turbo?
>

The mounting flange for the turbo would have to be defined --- The flange would
be relatively easy to modify to fit various needs. A more complex issue is how the
overall package fits together --- orientation, turbo size etc.

At this point all I'm aiming for is a ballpark price for say, 10 headers --- if  JUN
says the price will be $5000 each then there is no sense in talking further, if he
says the price is $28 then we'll start to talk details and I'll be talking to you folks.

        Jim Berry


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:57:21 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers

What is "wrong" with the IHI turbos in his kit?  I know lines need to be
redone and rear intercooler pipes probably have to be attached differently,
but if this turbo was a high perf. unit used on some rally 2.0 litre,
wouldn't two flow plenty for a 3.0 litre?  Wouldn't the ball bearing allow
it to spool quicker with less lag?  I am totally in the market for a turbo
upgrade, and my only problem with his kit is that the front piping
incorporates a pre-cat eliminator which makes my Stillen D.P. a problem and
would have to be modified or replaced with an ATR or similar design.  He
claims 200h.p. (on whose dyno?) increase in power (over stock I assume-what
PSI?--15psi I hope).  I wonder what this combo will put out at 20PSI with
race gas?  Are those IHI turbos on par with 15gs, (I know Jeff, check your
site).  I want to bid on them, but I know he wants about $4000 for his kit
and can have more made.  I want to make sure its not all hype, and that I
can make more power with the manifolds then just bolting on a set of turbos
and changing the fuel system to match.   Definately keep us updated on your
dealings with the real JUN, cause if I could get the same manifold
arrangement, but be able to use say a GT357 magnum and retain all the
factory lines, that would be ideal--unless of course the IHI is much more
efficient for our cars.

Sam




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:10:43 -0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers

Jim Berry wrote:

> From: Michael D. Crose
>
> > In regard to the use of stainless steel for headers Carroll Smith says in
> > "Engineer To Win" that if stainless it to be used it should be 321 Stainless
> > and that it shouldn't be painted.

> At this point all I'm aiming for is a ballpark price for say, 10 headers --- if  JUN
> says the price will be $5000 each then there is no sense in talking further, if he
> says the price is $28 then we'll start to talk details and I'll be talking to you folks.
>
>         Jim Berry

Good luck Jim, there should be a market for headers if the price stays under $1000 and would
place a TD04 turbo in the stock location (set-up most people run).  And to those questioning
stainless steel for headers, tell me what would be better.  BUT, make sure it is a higher
grade stainless.  Most headers out there are made out of T-304 which gets the job done if
exhaust temps stay reasonable.  Most turbo cars will have problems with T-304 after about a
year of weekend driving.  The high temps will leach the carbon to the surface making the
header brittle resulting in cracks (exhaust leaks).  T-321 is awsome stuff but you'll pay
for it.  It cost me an extra ~$300 to upgrade from T-304 to T-321 for raw material alone.
T-321 meets aircraft standards but is rarely used on autos due to the extra cost. (everyone
is trying to make a quick buck).

You also need to be careful on the head-to-flange-to-tube transition.  It's hard to go from
the oval port on the head to a round tube gradually.  You can negate most of your potential
gains with a poor transition (otherwise just keep the OEM exhaust manifold).  Try to keep
all the welds clean (inside and out) with smooth connections (roughly equal length runners
can be achieved with a little planning) and lastly the collector (where all three runners
come together) must be handled with care.

If my headers ever get completed (over 6 months in the making), I'll share pics.

Again, good luck Jim


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 22:17:14 -0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers

I was wondering if any of you guys were familiar with a coating call "Jet
Hot", could this help regarding the heat concerns.  "Jet Hot" is a white
coating they put on header for race cars and is supposed to reduce the
header temperatures.  Is anyone familiar with this stuff and could it be
something that may help?

Dave Best
http://davebest.topcities.com/



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Gonsowski" <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
To: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Cc: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>; <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers


>
> Jim Berry wrote:
>
> > From: Michael D. Crose
> >
> > > In regard to the use of stainless steel for headers Carroll Smith says
in
> > > "Engineer To Win" that if stainless it to be used it should be 321
Stainless
> > > and that it shouldn't be painted.
>
> > At this point all I'm aiming for is a ballpark price for say, 10
headers --- if  JUN
> > says the price will be $5000 each then there is no sense in talking
further, if he
> > says the price is $28 then we'll start to talk details and I'll be
talking to you folks.
> >
> >         Jim Berry
>
> Good luck Jim, there should be a market for headers if the price stays
under $1000 and would
> place a TD04 turbo in the stock location (set-up most people run).  And to
those questioning
> stainless steel for headers, tell me what would be better.  BUT, make sure
it is a higher
> grade stainless.  Most headers out there are made out of T-304 which gets
the job done if
> exhaust temps stay reasonable.  Most turbo cars will have problems with
T-304 after about a
> year of weekend driving.  The high temps will leach the carbon to the
surface making the
> header brittle resulting in cracks (exhaust leaks).  T-321 is awsome stuff
but you'll pay
> for it.  It cost me an extra ~$300 to upgrade from T-304 to T-321 for raw
material alone.
> T-321 meets aircraft standards but is rarely used on autos due to the
extra cost. (everyone
> is trying to make a quick buck).
>
> You also need to be careful on the head-to-flange-to-tube transition.
It's hard to go from
> the oval port on the head to a round tube gradually.  You can negate most
of your potential
> gains with a poor transition (otherwise just keep the OEM exhaust
manifold).  Try to keep
> all the welds clean (inside and out) with smooth connections (roughly
equal length runners
> can be achieved with a little planning) and lastly the collector (where
all three runners
> come together) must be handled with care.
>
> If my headers ever get completed (over 6 months in the making), I'll share
pics.
>
> Again, good luck Jim
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 22:33:39 -0500
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Replacement Stereo for '92 vr4

Ian:

I just put a whole new stereo in my Stealth.

- - dash speakers are mid+highs, not a common size (no direct replacements),
have their own capacitors to block bass frequencies
- - door speakers are mid and low bass (no tweeters) 6.5"+ size
- - rear speakers are common 6x9" size, but not fun to get at.  their high-end
(tweeters) suck.

I put a JVC KD-LX50 head unit in my car 45Wx4 (single DIN size), but a
double-din will fit easily.  I didn't see any double-DIN units that I liked,
and wanted the extra theft deterrent mine provided (goes completely black
when turned off).
I also mounted a 12-disk JVC changer behind the back seats,
put 1" Infinity tweeters in the dash (you could stay with the stock spkrs),
6.5" Infinity full-range in the doors (factory wired in parallel with the
dash tweeters),
6x9" Infinity full-range in the rears.

Check out the "222hp Stereo" site for some good pics and ideas.  Lots of $
in this one, but good documentation.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9907/stereo.html

I got the ideas for my tweeter mountings from this site, but I only spent
about $800 total for my setup at Crutchfield.  Still want to add a powered
subwoofer, maybe some external power amps some day.

Wiring harness is highly recommended!  Available at Crutchfield, or Best Buy
(ask their install shop), and probably other installation places.
Crutchfield throws them in free with a purchase of stereo head unit.  They
also sent me front door speaker adapters and speaker wiring harnesses for
free.

If you have any other questions, check out Crutchfield for some specs on our
cars, or ask me :-)

Roger Roskam
91 Indy Stealth RT/TT


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 12:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: Replacement Stereo for '92 vr4


> Morning everyone,
>
> does anyone know of a good replacement for the stock single head unit in
the
> 92 3000gt? I am looking for a cd head unit that will drive the 6 speakers.
> Are the dash speakers tweeters? (do i need crossovers, etc) or are they
> simply ordinary speakers? the other thing i would like to get his a
harness
> adaptor to plug straight into the cars connectors? any ideas?
>
> thanks
> Ian
> 92 red vr4
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:00:27 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Willow Springs...

Ken

Damn I love road racing --- for those of you that haven't gone to a track, you
have my deepest sympathy.

No !  second trip to Willow [ big track ] ---- I love it.  It's a track built for our
car. It's billed as the fastest road track in the west and I believe it, top average
speed is 136mph, my average is around 90 [ a touch off of the track record ].

No walls, that's Laguna Seca, where I also lust to drive, just high speed and no
brakes needed. Turn 8 is a 120 MPH entry and could be maintained until the
short chute before 9 [ I'll need a testosterone injection to keep my foot in it ].

Turn 9 is a high speed decreasing radius turn that leads onto the front
straight so it is critical to do it right [ I'm getting better ]. The problem is lack of
landmarks, a couple of cones or signs would help define the  turn-in to the
apex. ½ to 1 second can be picked up here, higher exit speed would allow a
front straight speed of 145.

At the end of the front straight I'm hitting 135 [ indicated on speedo --- 'shrug']
heavy, late braking into turn 1 [ I brake too early and too long ]. Next time I'll
pick up close to a second here, brake later and carry much more speed into
turn 1 and the short chute before turn 2. You can carry much more speed
than it looks --- the penalty for error is a serious shunt, bad things can
happen to you and your car at 120+ if you exit the track.

Thanks to George Kuo's advice and example I increased my speed in turn 2,
a long constant radius carousel with a decreasing radius at the end. I was
running it at 80+ George said he was turning 90+, lo and behold 90+ it is.

Turns 3,4 and 5 are a close coupled pain in the ass --- it's a hard left,
uphill right, U-turn, down-hill, outside camber, left heading into turn 6. Turn
6 is a nice full throttle uphill blind apex --- keep it  full throttle, shift from
second to third at 7000+ RPM floor it again and hit the blind apex --- you're
aimed at a concrete culvert at  the side of the track ---- damn !!!. The apex
is at the crest of a hill where your car goes all light and goofy, slides
sideways, grabs the road and hooks up --- God damn I love road racing ----
I short shift into forth for turn 7 so it's nice and easy on the hardware, get it to
120 mph for the entry into 8 and off we go again [ next time I'll hold 120 till
the short chute --- did I say that before ?? ] Next time I'll do it right --- did I
mention I love road racing !!!!!!

I turned a 1 min 40.6 sec lap, my goal next time is 1m 38s --- I think the
car could do a 1m 30s with a real pilot. I'm getting better and a lot more
confident, I actually take time to look at my gauges, even in the turns.

    Jim Berry

                see you at Buttonwillow, The Streets of Willow is real low on my list
                of places to race with a 4000 pound car.











- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 8:51 AM
Subject: Willow Springs...


> Hey Jim,
>
> Was your trip to WS your first time?  How about a little trip report?  It
> doesn't have to be as long and detailed as Merritt's reports.  I've heard that
> WS (maybe I'm thinkg of Laguna Seca) is a little dangerous since there are walls
> you can hit if you slide off course...what do you think?



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 23:20:58 -0500
From: Rudy Morales <rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
Subject: Team3S: O2 sensor replaced, was Re: Help, car does not start

After replacing the O2 sensor the car is starting and running normal.
Thanks again guys!
Rudy

At 07:32 AM 1/2/01 -0800, Jeff Lucius wrote:
>Hmmm. How would the scanner know that the engine was running rich if
>the stock O2 sensor was bad? Does the scanner have its own sensor?
>Seems to me that if the mixture is rich and the stock O2 sensor shows
>that, then the sensor is fine. Just a guess. :)
>
>Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Rudy Morales" <rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
>To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 2:59 PM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Help, car does not start
>
><snip>
>looking at the scanner with the engine running my friend said that
>it was at rich all the time (and he says it should rich then lean
>then
>rich then lean, etc) he said it probably is a bad O2 sensor and that
>the computer is sending too much gas mixture and it floods the
>engine.
><snip>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
>http://photos.yahoo.com/
>
>***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

Rudy Morales


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:22:23 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: turbo setup

Don

A little confusion as to where this kit comes from --- In an email to Jeff
lucius you referred to the manifolds as being built by JUN machine shop.
Jeff and I interpreted that to mean JUN Motorsports. I talked to Todd, the
tech/marketing guy at JUN who said he had just returned from Japan
where he reviewed new products and there were no 3000/Stealth
manifolds on the product list.

Where does the manifold you're building come from ???

BTY --- Roger Gerl pointed out a design problem in the wastegate exhaust
area that could limit performance if not corrected.

We sould also like to know the type of stainless that is being used in
the product.

        Thanks for your response

          Jim Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Don <dan27_@hotmail.com>
To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: turbo setup


> yes this is me. I will need to have then 18T turbine housing . I don't
> normally sell this kit so I have to order it. the exhaust manifold and
> > the front pipe mounting will cost you around $2380. I don't know much
> about 18T. is it BB turbo ?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
> To: Burin Tunwattanapong <dan27_@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 16:37
> Subject: Re: turbo setup
>
>
> > Burin
> >
> > OK email it is --- a quick question is Don, dan27 and Burin one
> > person or is there more than one guy involved in this.
> >
> > As I said in my previous email my thinking right now is to go with the
> > 18T turbos --- how much do you want for the exhaust manifold and
> > the exhaust adapter with the O2 mounting which would fit an 18T.
> >
> >         Jim Berry
> > ============================================
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Burin Tunwattanapong <dan27_@hotmail.com>
> > To: <fastmax@home.com>
> >
> > > >From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
> > > >To: "Don" <dan27_@hotmail.com>
> > > >Subject: Re: turbo setup
> > > >Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:04:08 -0800
> > > >
> > > >Don
> > > >I started to write a response to your email and decided it would
> > > >be a lot easier if I talked to you ---- have you got a phone #
> > > >and a time I can call you ???
> > > >
> > > >Thanks     Jim Berry
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Thanks for the response --- a couple of additional questions
> > > >
> > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > >================================================
> > > > > > 2.  why was it removed ?    I am selling them .
> > > >
> > > >That part seemed obvious --- I guess the proper question is why
> > > >are you changing your setup ???
> > >
> > > what you see on the board is my  turbo kit . i am not changing it. i
> have
> > > the same kit up for sale.
> > > >==========================================
> > > > > > 3.  What was the performance level [ If tested ] ? you will have
> 500
> > > >and+
> > > i haven't  dyno my car so i wouldn't know . but  as you can see there is
> no
> > > cat on this set up, the header and the frontpipe flow a lot better .
> Don't
> > > forget this is a twin BB turbo kit. it will make 500 hp easy
> > > i prefer answering by e-mail because i don't have the phone # at the
> > > warehouse yet i will let you know as soon as i get it.
> > >
> > > > > hp
> > > >
> > > > > > 4.  How long was it in use ?     like I said I don't know about
> the
> > > >turbo
> > > > > but header and front pipe are new
> > > > > > 5.  What material are the headers made of ?     stainless steel
> > > > > > 6.  Is the used BB setup $4k est or is that for a new unit.
> only
> > > >the
> > > > > turbo are used
> > > > > > 7.  Who are you guys ?     we are a small group of people who love
> > > >gto.
> > > > > > 8.  Will you sell the headers only with stock flanges --- I'm
> > > >I
> > > > > don't have a header with a stock flanges right now. but I can get it
> for
> > > >you
> > > > > tho
> > > > > >      also thinking of using the 18T hybred.
> > > > >
> > > > > please let me know.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> > >
> >
> >


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 21:24:58 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Shelat <sshelat@erols.com>

> What is "wrong" with the IHI turbos in his kit?

doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the IHI turbos, just a bunch of
unanswered questions --- $4000 is a bunch and we should answer the
questions.
==================================================>
> I know lines need to be
> redone and rear intercooler pipes probably have to be attached differently,
> but if this turbo was a high perf. unit used on some rally 2.0 litre,
> wouldn't two flow plenty for a 3.0 litre?

Keep in mind that you're driving the turbo with a 1.5 liter engine not a 2 liter.
===================================================
 >Wouldn't the ball bearing allow
> it to spool quicker with less lag?

That is one of the claims to fame for a BB turbo --- reduced lag

=====================================================
.  He
> claims 200h.p. (on whose dyno?) increase in power (over stock I assume-what
> PSI?--15psi I hope). 

It's a guess on his part --- that's one of the questions that need to be addressed.

====================================================
I wonder what this combo will put out at 20PSI with
> race gas?  Are those IHI turbos on par with 15gs, (I know Jeff, check your
> site).  I want to bid on them, but I know he wants about $4000 for his kit
> and can have more made.  I want to make sure its not all hype, and that I
> can make more power with the manifolds then just bolting on a set of turbos
> and changing the fuel system to match.   Definitely keep us updated on your
> dealings with the real JUN, cause if I could get the same manifold
> arrangement, but be able to use say a GT357 magnum and retain all the
> factory lines, that would be ideal--unless of course the IHI is much more
> efficient for our cars.

He said there are more where that came from --- he restarted the auction
but you have some time to do some research. I too like the ball bearing turbo,
but as Roger Gerl pointed out there is a design problem with the down pipe
that should be corrected.
He stated a price of about $3500 for the TD05 setup which is considerabley
less than the AAM version of the TD05 --- AAM however has some dyno
numbers to back them up.

        Jim Berry


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 23:17:30 -0700
From: "Manoj 'Moe' Prasad" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: 33% COUPON GOOD FOR 24 HOURS AT CARPARTS

Here is a copy of an email from importhookup.com.

I thought I would pass this along.

- -----------------------------------
Hello everyone,

Yep that's right, the 33% off coupon has been posted today but it WILL be
good until Sunday night, so don't miss it!  Before you order you should
read the UPDATED coupon TIP & FAQ (frequently asked questions) and
hopefully it will allow you guys to make the order without any problems,
and if you do, you can e-mail me and I'll try my best to help you guys out!

There is only 3 days left for this deal so if you can PLEASE PLEASE spread
the word about www.importhookup.com I would be very thankful, just think
about how much you're saving and return the favor by spreading the word
for me.  Thanks!

Tim
www.importhookup.com





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Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 13:21:42 EST
From: StevePKT77@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: O2 sensor replaced, was Re: Help, car does not start

Rudy, since you just replaced your o2 sensor, I have a question for you (or
anyone else who knows).  When the o2 sensor goes bad, besides the engine
running rich - are there any indicators, such as an OXS light on the dash or
the check engine light?  Cause I suspect my o2 sensor is bad but I don't have
any dash indicators so I wanted to find out if there are any when it's bad. 
Also, how do you know which o2 sensor to replace since we have two as far as
I know?  I have a '92 RT.  Thanks for any help.
- -Steve

In a message dated 1/19/01 11:24:13 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu writes:

<< After replacing the O2 sensor the car is starting and running normal.
 Thanks again guys! >>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 11:20:03 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing/stainless headers

Joe and Michael

thanks for the response on the T-321 stainless --- I passed the info on to Don
to see what they're using.

Joe wrote

.  BUT, make sure it is a higher
> grade stainless.  Most headers out there are made out of T-304 which gets the job done if
> exhaust temps stay reasonable.   The high temps will leach the carbon to the surface making
> header brittle resulting in cracks (exhaust leaks).  T-321 is awesome stuff but you'll pay
> for it.  It cost me an extra ~$300 to upgrade from T-304 to T-321 for raw material alone.
>
> You also need to be careful on the head-to-flange-to-tube transition.  It's hard to go from
> the oval port on the head to a round tube gradually.  You can negate most of your potential
> gains with a poor transition (otherwise just keep the OEM exhaust manifold).  Try to keep
> all the welds clean (inside and out) with smooth connections (roughly equal length runners
> can be achieved with a little planning) and lastly the collector (where all three runners
> come together) must be handled with care.

Seems like good advice ---- If JUN Motorsport designed the package I expect a professional
product, they do performance stuff for a living and seem to be respected.

Don and his ball bearing package may be every bit as professional but he and his product
are an unknown ---- I think he's in the New York area, it would be great if someone could
go look at the product and give us a quick report.

Volunteers anyone !!!!
==============================================================

> If my headers ever get completed (over 6 months in the making), I'll share pics.
 
 What kind of pricing are you getting on your setup [ if I may be so bold ] it
seems like a one-off could be nasty expensive

Jim berry



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End of team3s V1 #383
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