team3s
Wednesday, January 17
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
380
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Jan 2001 12:20:14 EST
From:
Ukjukj1@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Engine
Check Light remains on
-
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Dear team.
I
recently had a Down-pipe and a HKS exhaust system installed. Since then I
experience a periodic (at least once a day) engine cut when the car is
driven
over 4,500 RPM. The only other mod to the car is a HKS
Electronic Valve
Control system which have been installed a year before. My
guess is that the
OBD / emission control system complaining about the
down-pipe (he, he), or a
faulty exhaust gasket. The engine cut problem
started after the down-pipe has
been installed.
My questions
are:
a. Is it safe to drive the car in this condition until somebody can
take a
look at it?
b. Is at advisable to have an authorized dealer look
at it? Something tells
me that I
am going to get a
story from the dealer to restore the car back to
standard
stock
specifications before the problem will disappear.
c. Is there anything that I can do to fix this problem myself. I am no
mechanic, but if
it is a loose pipe or exhaust gasket
I would be able to do something
about it.
Model : 97' GT3000
VR/4
Regards to Y'all
Joe Scholtz
-
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT
SIZE=2>Dear team.
<BR>
<BR>I recently had a Down-pipe and a
HKS exhaust system installed. Since then I
<BR>experience a periodic
(at least once a day) engine cut when the car is driven
<BR>over 4,500
RPM. The only other mod to the car is a HKS Electronic Valve
<BR>Control system which have been installed a year before. My guess
is that the
<BR>OBD / emission control system complaining about the
down-pipe (he, he), or a
<BR>faulty exhaust gasket. The engine cut
problem started after the down-pipe has
<BR>been installed.
<BR>
<BR> My questions are:
<BR>
<BR>a. Is
it safe to drive the car in this condition until somebody can take a
<BR>look at it?
<BR>b. Is at advisable to have an authorized
dealer look at it? Something tells
<BR>me that I
<BR>
am going to get a story from the dealer to restore
the car back to
<BR>standard stock
<BR>
specifications before the problem will disappear.
<BR>c. Is there anything that I can do to fix this problem myself. I
am no
<BR>mechanic, but if
<BR>
it is a loose pipe or exhaust gasket I would be
able to do something
<BR>about it.
<BR>
<BR>Model :
97' GT3000 VR/4
<BR>
<BR>Regards to
Y'all
<BR>Joe Scholtz</FONT></HTML>
-
--part1_23.6235bbe.2795dcce_boundary--
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 09:27:16
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Steering wheel shake while breaking = Lower control arms?
Hi
Chad,
How you hanging? :) (sorry, I couldn't resist)
> Over the
past few months, my car has developed a steering wheel shake while
>
braking, which is really noticeable at highway speeds. I took it into
the
> dealer to have the rotors resurfaced, thinking that it was just
warped
> rotors.
>
> The dealer told me that the rotors are
fine, but that both of my lower
> lateral control arms need to be
replaced, and quoted me $900. Does this
> sound legitimate, or am I
getting ripped off? Assuming the diagnosis is
> correct, I plan to
get some other estimates for the job, but I wanted to
> know if this even
sounds like a plausible explanation given the symptoms.
> (Note that the
shaking only happens when I apply the brakes.)
>
> Appreciate
anyone's advice on this.
This problem is most likey warped
rotors.
For $900, the dealer would most likely replace the front lower
control arms
(which you may or may not need), AND machine your rotors (the
real problem).
The average person would tend to think the control arms
replacement solved the
problem.
Any brake shop should be able to
measure the run-out of your rotor to determine
if they are indeed
warped. They will also measure the remaining thickness of
the rotors to
determine if they can be machined. This is usually free since
they will
give you a quote for a brake job.
If you have any do-it-yourself
capability, just take the rotors off yourself and
take them to a local shop
to get them machined. It should cost less than $20.
If you NEED to
replace the front lower control arms, parts should cost about
$210 each (yes,
the ball joints are NOT available seperately) from one of the
list's discount
dealers. Labor should only be 2-3 hours total, plus a
wheel
alignment.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your
car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
- Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 11:48:51
-0600
From:
kalla@tripoint.orgSubject: Team3S:
driveshaft seal woes again
After replacing the right side transaxle seal
saturday, it started
leaking again today.
When I removed the right
side driveshaft the first time to replace
the seal, it came out with almost
no effort. The comment was
made that it should be difficult to get it to pop
out, so I figured that
perhaps this is what was causing the leak. I put the
new seal in
and reinserted the drive shaft all the way till it would not go
in
anymore.
I got under the car this morning and the driveshaft has
moved out of
the transaxle slightly. And it's leaking from around the seal.
The c-
clip was on the driveshaft when I put it back in, but I suspect that
perhaps it's failing as the driveshaft is trying to come back out.
So what could be at fault here? a bad c-clip ? The driveshaft went
into the transaxle completely so I don't think I made a mistake
when
re-inserting it. What else can I do? I need this leak to stop!
Walton C.
Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 11:51:08
-0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine Check Light remains on
Joe,
Your 97 VR4 has an
extra O2 sensor after your rear pre-cat. Did this
downpipe elimate the
front or rear pre-cat, or maybe the O2 sensor was not
hooked up
properly. Most likely the check engine light is related to this.
You could try unhooking your battery for a few minutes. That will
probably
clear the code. If it doesn't, or it comes back on quickly,
then I'd guess
it would be your O2 sensor is unhooked. If it takes a
100 miles before the
check engine light comes on, then it might be because
of higher emissions
because of your missing or gutted pre-cat and the O2
sensor is picking up on
the higher emissions.
The engine cut-out
sounds like fuel-cut. What boost are you running? Your
turbos
may be spiking or spooling up too fast and your MAS is experiencing
MAS
overrun and initiating fuel-cut. Does the cut out happen at peak boost
in the mid-range RPM under full throttle?? Thats the sign of
fuel-cut. Try
dialing down the boost a little. Maybe
14psi?? In the wintertime with the
cold dense air, fuel cut happens at
lower boost settings.
>From:
Ukjukj1@aol.com>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Engine Check Light remains on
>Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 12:20:14
EST
>
>Dear team.
>
>I recently had a Down-pipe and a
HKS exhaust system installed. Since then I
>experience a periodic (at
least once a day) engine cut when the car is
>driven
>over 4,500
RPM. The only other mod to the car is a HKS Electronic
Valve
>Control system which have been installed a year before. My guess is
that
>the
>OBD / emission control system complaining about the
down-pipe (he, he), or
>a
>faulty exhaust gasket. The engine cut
problem started after the down-pipe
>has
>been
installed.
>
> My questions are:
>
>a. Is it safe
to drive the car in this condition until somebody can take a
>look at
it?
>b. Is at advisable to have an authorized dealer look at it? Something
tells
>me that I
> am going to get a story
from the dealer to restore the car back to
>standard
stock
> specifications before the problem will
disappear.
>c. Is there anything that I can do to fix this problem myself.
I am no
>mechanic, but if
> it is a loose
pipe or exhaust gasket I would be able to do something
>about
it.
>
>Model : 97' GT3000 VR/4
>
>Regards to
Y'all
>Joe
Scholtz
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 09:58:43
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: driveshaft seal woes again
Just to cover all bases, if the
trany has too much fluid in it, oil
will leak out of these seals. This
happened to me after the mechanic
that rebuilt my engine added too much oil
to the transaxle. After the
extra was drained out, no more leaks and the
seals have been OK for 2
years.
As far as the C-clip goes, the manual
does recommend replacing it
rather than re-using it. I don't remember from
your posts if you used
a new one or not.
When I have helped pull the
passenger-side shaft (the only one with a
C-clip), a pry bar was required to
pop it out. It went in a little
easier. We re-used the C-clip, BTW, without
problems.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
kalla@tripoint.org>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, January 16, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: driveshaft seal woes
again
After replacing the right side transaxle seal saturday, it started
leaking again today.
When I removed the right side driveshaft the
first time to replace
the seal, it came out with almost no effort. The
comment was
made that it should be difficult to get it to pop out, so I
figured
that perhaps this is what was causing the leak. I put the new seal
in
and reinserted the drive shaft all the way till it would not go in
anymore.
I got under the car this morning and the driveshaft has
moved out of
the transaxle slightly. And it's leaking from around the seal.
The c-
clip was on the driveshaft when I put it back in, but I suspect that
perhaps it's failing as the driveshaft is trying to come back out.
So what could be at fault here? a bad c-clip ? The driveshaft went
into the transaxle completely so I don't think I made a mistake
when
re-inserting it. What else can I do? I need this leak to stop!
Walton C.
Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 12:10:47
-0600
From:
kalla@tripoint.orgSubject: Re: Team3S:
driveshaft seal woes again
I filled the transaxle up while it was still
in the garage and its filled
right to under the fill plug.
> As
far as the C-clip goes, the manual does recommend replacing it
> rather
than re-using it. I don't remember from your posts if you used
> a new one
or not.
I left the old one on the driveshaft. I figured I would have no
problems.
> When I have helped pull the passenger-side shaft (the
only one with a
> C-clip), a pry bar was required to pop it out. It went
in a little
> easier. We re-used the C-clip, BTW, without
problems.
Well, when I was under the car a few minutes ago I was able
to
push on the large piece of the driveshaft (which meets flush
with the
seal) and I was able to move the driveshaft back in a little
bit with just
my hands. Would this indicate that the c-clip is failing
to do its job and I
need to replace it? I had pushed the driveshaft
completely into the
transaxle when I replaced the seal.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 13:16:50
EST
From:
StevePKT77@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
driveshaft seal woes again
Sorry to hear about your troubles, I know it
sucks doing a job several times
until it's right. I would replace the
C-clip as you called it, since if this
clip does not hold the axle in (or if
you don't put the clip back on) then
you will surely have a leak cause it
won't hold the shaft in all the way. I
had this problem with an Acura
Integra I replaced the automatic tranny on -
the axle shaft wouldn't stay
in, even with the clip installed (and hence I
had a tranny fluid
leak). So what I did was spread the clip some, using two
pairs of
pliers. This is probably not the best way to fix it, since you
should
just buy a new clip (it couldn't be more than a few dollars I would
hope)
but I was in a hurry and my method did work, and I owned the car for
several
thousand miles afterwards w/no leaks to speak of. Anyway, my
recommendation is buy a new clip like you already suggested.
-
-Steve
In a message dated 1/16/01 12:50:29 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
kalla@tripoint.org
writes:
<< After replacing the right side transaxle seal saturday,
it started
leaking again today.
When I removed the
right side driveshaft the first time to replace
the seal, it came out
with almost no effort. The comment was
made that it should be
difficult to get it to pop out, so I figured that
perhaps this is what
was causing the leak. I put the new seal in
and reinserted the drive
shaft all the way till it would not go in
anymore.
I got under the car this morning and the driveshaft has
moved out of
the transaxle slightly. And it's leaking from around the
seal. The c-
clip was on the driveshaft when I put it back in, but I
suspect that
perhaps it's failing as the driveshaft is trying to come
back out.
So what could be at fault here? a bad c-clip ? The
driveshaft went
into the transaxle completely so I don't think I made
a mistake
when re-inserting it. What else can I do? I need this leak
to stop! >>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 12:26:02
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: driveshaft seal woes again
> I had pushed the driveshaft
completely into the transaxle
> when I replaced the seal.
Did it
kind of "pop" or "click" into the tranny? As you are pushing it in,
you
should feel it snap into the tranny. If not, it could either be a
worn
c-clip or the shaft isn't actually all the way in. I don't recall
if the
clip has a "right way" or "wrong way". If there's one end that's
flat, that
end should face towards the wheel side of the shaft. I had
to push on mine
pretty hard to get it all the way in, and ended up lining the
two shafts up
straight and hitting the end with a rubber mallet to get it to
pop in. Once
it is in, pull on the shaft to make sure it can't come
back out - there
should be a LOT of resistance holding the shaft
in.
If it comes out easily, pull the shaft out and look into the tranny
to see
if there is something stuck in the recess that the clip spreads
into. Maybe
there's some grit or something there that shouldn't
be. You should be able
to see right into the front differential through
the seal hole.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 12:43:07
-0600
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: driveshaft seal woes again
> Did it kind of "pop" or "click"
into the tranny? As you are pushing it in,
no, it slid all the way
in, but there was no reassuring "click" or
"pop". I pressed it in pretty
hard, but I'm a really strong guy so it's
possible I didn't press it hard
enough. I used my arms, I didn't use
a mallet or anything like that. The
large end piece that is after the
splined shaft was flush with the seal
though.
When I pulled the shaft out, all I did was drop the control arm
and it
allowed my to pry the driveshaft out and move it. When I re-inserted
it, i slid it into the transaxle and then pressed in on the rotor
assembly (i had to turn the rotor a little to get the splines to line
up) and it went all the way in. Is that all I should have to do to get
the "click" or do I need a mallet?
> there's some grit or
something there that shouldn't be. You should be able
> to see right
into the front differential through the seal hole.
It's a really tight
squeeze in there, but I was able to see into the
differential.
I
will try a new c-clip, since it's obvious that the driveshaft is not
seated
completely in the transaxle. I'll put *another * new seal in
there while I'm
at it, since it's possible the loose driveshaft has
damaged the new
one.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 14:32:27
-0600
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: De-frost replacements
Sounds good - what would the cost of
something like that turn out to be?
I have a 93 stealth with cracked vents as
well.
john
>-- Dear team3s,
>A little about me, I am
a CMM Programmer by trade (thats right
>co-ordinate measureing machine) in
a large aerospace company.....point
>is I have a lot of connections with
vendors on neat little things I want
>made....so here is the thing...I am
a new owner of a 93 dodge r/t
>stealth and every day I look at those
cracked vents and it drives me
>nuts. I have no idea about patents or
copywrights but it is my intension
>to mold some replacements out of
graphite. My initial thought was
>titainium but with the sun on this metal
I do believe it will be hell on
>the dashboard. Graphite will look cooler
and easier to make anyhow. The
>question.....Is thier enough interest in
this to make more than one
>set?....I havent even gotten my manuals in the
mail yet so seeing how
>they are installed is all greek at this point. But
I hate them sitting
>there just looking at me and
laughing.
>
>any interests?
>
>bob
k.
>
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 13:53:10
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 99 3KGT SL bra on eBay
There is a bra for sale on eBay for a 1999
3000GT SL. Will this fit my 95
VR-4?
- --
Paul/.
95 black
3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 17:21:42
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 99 3KGT SL bra on eBay
Paul,
It should. I have a
Le Bra on my 1995 VR-4 (good choice my man) although
that is what I ordered
from Saddleman (
www.saddleman.com<
http://www.saddleman.com> ) for
$100. There should be no difference from
the SL front to the VR-4 front
except that there might not be mesh cut-outs
on the SL bra for your
intercoolers. If the price is anywhere close to $100
then get the one
that fits.
I also have the mirror bra pieces from Colgan (
www.carparts.com<
http://www.carparts.com> ) and I think the
Mitsubishi bra (the one with the
Mitsu diamond on the front) comes in three
pieces or so. A little more than
$100 just to give you an
idea.
And to anyone wondering ... YES it is worth it. I scraped
while pulling out
of a driveway and the bra ripped but the bumper is
perfect. Also, a guy
bumped into the front bumper but the thickness of
the bra was just enough to
absorb and not scratch anything. Those two
saved me well over $400 in
repairs and the bra was only $100. Well
worth it in my mind (let alone the
rock chips from the highway).
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox [
mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, January 16, 2001 15:53
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: 99 3KGT SL bra
on eBay
There is a bra for sale on eBay for a 1999 3000GT SL. Will this
fit my 95
VR-4?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F,
TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 06:36:06
-0800
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Steering wheel shake while breaking = Lower control arms?
It should be
mentioned that surfacing is to even out the surface of the
rotor. Real
warpage affects the overall disc shape and cannot be
corrected in many cases
if significant warpage is present (by
superficial surfacing). Replacement of
the rotor is required in this
case. I have had this problem before and tried
surfacing, replacing
pads, and it was only corrected when the rotors were
replaced. The brake
shop showed a couple of truly warped rotors, and it was
obvious why
surfacing would not of worked. Unless it is very superficial and
warpage
only at the surface which is not possible, you will need to
replace
them.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
Rich
92 Stealth
Tt
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> Hi Chad,
>
> How you
hanging? :) (sorry, I couldn't resist)
>
> > Over the past few
months, my car has developed a steering wheel shake while
> > braking,
which is really noticeable at highway speeds. I took it into the
>
> dealer to have the rotors resurfaced, thinking that it was just
warped
> > rotors.
> >
> > The dealer told me that
the rotors are fine, but that both of my lower
> > lateral control arms
need to be replaced, and quoted me $900. Does this
> > sound
legitimate, or am I getting ripped off? Assuming the diagnosis is
>
> correct, I plan to get some other estimates for the job, but I wanted
to
> > know if this even sounds like a plausible explanation given the
symptoms.
> > (Note that the shaking only happens when I apply the
brakes.)
> >
> > Appreciate anyone's advice on this.
>
> This problem is most likey warped rotors.
>
> For $900,
the dealer would most likely replace the front lower control arms
> (which
you may or may not need), AND machine your rotors (the real problem).
>
The average person would tend to think the control arms replacement solved
the
> problem.
>
> Any brake shop should be able to measure
the run-out of your rotor to determine
> if they are indeed warped.
They will also measure the remaining thickness of
> the rotors to
determine if they can be machined. This is usually free since
> they
will give you a quote for a brake job.
>
> If you have any
do-it-yourself capability, just take the rotors off yourself and
> take
them to a local shop to get them machined. It should cost less than
$20.
>
> If you NEED to replace the front lower control arms, parts
should cost about
> $210 each (yes, the ball joints are NOT available
seperately) from one of the
> list's discount dealers. Labor should
only be 2-3 hours total, plus a wheel
> alignment.
>
> Good
luck,
> Ken
> --
> If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
>
> Ken
Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 19:10:52
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Squirting water
Merritt
The type of brake failure you're having is
one of the questions I've been meaning
to ask you.
If you have a soft
pedal, that is a result of boiled fluid or air in the system --- I'll
assume
the brakes are properly bled so the problem should be fluid. The other
option is a hard pedal and no stopping power --- that means over-heated and
vaporized brake material.
One fix is to cool the calipers if you have
a soft pedal or the rotors if you're cooking
the rotors. --- which
catigory does your problem seem to
fit.
Jim
Berry
==========================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
TransAm cars spray into the vanes at the caliper, because the water
flashes
> to steam and the steam then helps cool the piston seals. In
other words,
> the water that TransAm cars spray does not cool the brakes,
it cools the
> pistons.
>
> Rich
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 08:15:01
EST
From:
LizVong21@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
parting out a 92 stealth r/t tt
part out my stealth all parts are forsale
parts include a full modifed motor
that has never been started hks ssbov , 2
konig tantrum 18 x9 rims tires and
lots of other parts I am willing to sell
whole car make me an offer
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http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 12:11:10
-0500 (EST)
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Team3S: Wrong
diagnostic - Piston Slap???
Hello Everyone,
I recently took my
mom's 93 Stealth SOHC (120K) for a tune up. After the
tuneup I noticed
a noise coming from the engine bay in the morning (cold
start) for the first
20 min of driving. The noise can only be heard when
the car is in gear,
under partial throttle/load. It sounds to me like a
belt is rubbing
somewhere or like a fan is hitting something. This noise
cannot be
duplicated when the car is stopped and out of gear. If I rev
the engine
up, no extra noises/ticks are heard.
So, the Mitsubishi Dealer that did
the original tune-up, diagnosed the
noise as "PISTON SLAP." Is this the
same as lifter noise/ticking? If
these two things go hand in hand, then
it cannot be lifter ticking because
occasionally myself and my brother (95
VR4 & 94 TT) can hear lifter
ticking on very cold mornings.
It lasts 20-30 sec until I either rev up
the engine to 3000 RPM and hold it
for a few sec, or until I drive 1
block. This noise that I get
increases with RPM at both standstill and
while in gear until the noise goes
away.
What do you guys think of the Mitsu Mechanic's
diagnostic. I think it's
BS. My opinion is that it's one of the
belts not tensioned properly. If
indeed it is "PISTON SLAP," could it
be that the timing belt was not
zeroed/adjusted properly?
Many
questions, 0 answers. Once I get some answers from you, I can make
sure
they aren't trying to get out of one of their mistakes.
- -MIKE-
95
Red VR4
Detroit Metro Area, MI
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 09:36:05
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wrong diagnostic - Piston Slap???
"Piston slap: The condition
caused by too much clearance between the
piston and the cylinder walls. The
piston rattles or slaps against
the wall of the cylinder. It makes a hollow,
muffled, bell-like
sound. "
- -
http://www.connect.ab.ca/~barachj/car-dic.htmAs
you surmised, piston slap is not the same as and does not sound
like lash
adjuster ticking.
While definitely not an expert in this, piston slap is
not something
I would guess develops rapidly. The factory piston clearance in
our
stock engine is quite tight at 0.0008" to 0.001". I would guess
that
if the cylinder diameter increased enough to allow the piston
to
"slap", the rings would no longer seal well and so quite a bit of
oil
would be combusted as well as some over-pressuring of the
crankcase
(blow-by).
For comparison, the Venolia forged pistons in my
engine have a
piston-to-cylinder wall clearance of 0.005" that decreases
somewhat
as the pistons expand when they heat up. I have never noticed
any
significant piston slap noise, beyond a few moments after cold
startup
on the colder mornings.
Without hearing your engine, I can't help with a
diagnosis. What by
the way did the mechanic want to do to fix this "piston
slap"?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
To: "Team 3S
International" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
aa2345@wayne.edu>; <
aa2346@wayne.edu>
Sent: Wednesday,
January 17, 2001 10:11 AM
Subject: Team3S: Wrong diagnostic - Piston
Slap???
Hello Everyone,
I recently took my mom's 93 Stealth
SOHC (120K) for a tune up. After
the tuneup I noticed a noise coming
from the engine bay in the
morning (cold start) for the first 20 min of
driving. The noise can
only be heard when the car is in gear, under
partial throttle/load.
It sounds to me like a belt is rubbing somewhere or
like a fan is
hitting something. This noise cannot be duplicated when
the car is
stopped and out of gear. If I rev the engine up, no
extra
noises/ticks are heard.
So, the Mitsubishi Dealer that did the
original tune-up, diagnosed
the
noise as "PISTON SLAP." Is this the
same as lifter noise/ticking?
If
these two things go hand in hand, then
it cannot be lifter ticking
because occasionally myself and my brother (95
VR4 & 94 TT) can hear
lifter ticking on very cold mornings.
It lasts 20-30 sec until I
either rev up the engine to 3000 RPM and hold it
for a few sec, or
until I drive 1 block. This noise that I get
increases with RPM at
both standstill and while in gear until the noise goes
away.
What do you guys think of the Mitsu Mechanic's
diagnostic. I think
it's BS. My opinion is that it's one of the
belts not tensioned
properly. If indeed it is "PISTON SLAP," could it
be that the timing
belt was not zeroed/adjusted properly?
Many
questions, 0 answers. Once I get some answers from you, I can
make sure
they aren't trying to get out of one of their mistakes.
- -MIKE-
95
Red VR4
Detroit Metro Area,
MI
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#380
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