team3s
Monday, January 15
2001 Volume 01
: Number
378
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:52:59 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Squirting water
I remember a problem from my old thermodynamics
class, where we were
supposed to calculate the appropriate time to put an ice
cube into a hot
liquid to cool it down the fastest. As I recall, the solution
was to wait
until the liquid cooled itself for a while, because it cooled
rapidly.
Then, when the cooling curve started to flatten out, you drop in the
ice cube.
I wonder if this would be true of cooling off brakes.
As it is now, I squirt water onto the rotors after a particularly
nasty
braking sequence, such as entering turn 5 at Road America, where we
come
down from 125+ to about 45 mph. I squirt like crazy immediately
after
that, but I wonder: Should I give the brakes time to cool off on their
own
for a few seconds before dropping in the ice cube...er, squirting
the
water? Remember, I have only a limited amount of water available,
so it
needs to be applied judiciously.
Any thoughts,
gang?
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 09:05:55
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Squirting water
I'd say wait --- the higher the temp the higher the heat
flow, plus if the brakes
are a nice cherry red the water will flash to steam
on contact and the perhaps
form a steam barrier that prevents additional
water from reaching the brake
surface [ like a drop of water on a hot skillet
].
IMHO waiting until just before the next application of the brakes would
be the
most efficient use of your limited
water.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
I remember a problem from my old thermodynamics class, where we were
>
supposed to calculate the appropriate time to put an ice cube into a hot
>
liquid to cool it down the fastest. As I recall, the solution was to
wait
> until the liquid cooled itself for a while, because it cooled
rapidly.
> Then, when the cooling curve started to flatten out, you drop
in the ice cube.
>
> I wonder if this would be true of cooling off
brakes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 11:47:35
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Squirting water
At 09:05 AM 1/15/01 -0800, Jim Berry
wrote:
>I'd say wait --- the higher the temp the higher the heat flow,
plus if the
brakes
>are a nice cherry red the water will flash to steam
on contact and the
perhaps
>form a steam barrier that prevents
additional water from reaching the brake
>surface [ like a drop of water
on a hot skillet ].
>IMHO waiting until just before the next application
of the brakes would be
the
>most efficient use of your limited
water.--Jim Berry
>
Yeah, I've been thinking along the same lines.
Problem is, what is the
optimum point? We don't get a lot of time between
turns, so applying the
water is more a function of WHERE you can rather than
WHEN you can.
What I've been doing is what Jim suggests. I wait until I
can get on a long
straight, then squirt water like crazy to get the brakes as
cool as
possible. In between, I use "opportunity cooling" -- that is,
wherever I
can do it safely.
There has to be a more scientific way of
figuring all this out. Has anybody
seen any cooling curves for brakes? With
adequate air flow, how fast do
they cool naturally? Is it like 5 or 6
seconds, or more like 20 to 30
seconds? Where in that curve should water be
injected? I guess what I'd
really like to know is: Where am I wasting water?
Like Jim says, squirting
too soon makes the water flash to steam. Problem is,
what's too soon? If I
knew I HAD to wait at least 10 seconds after a severe
braking episode to
squirt, then I'd eliminate all the quick squirts in the
short chutes and
save water.
OTOH, I've seen truck racing in Yurp,
where they carry 60 gallons of water.
When these huge semis brake for a
corner, the front wheels are enveloped in
a cloud of steam; apparently, the
steam (at 212 F) actually cools the
brakes. Go figure.
I can tell you
that water injection WORKS to keep brake temps down. When I
don't use it, I
suffer brake fade, even with the Big Reds. With injection,
I can get through
a 20 minute session no problem. I probably brake more
aggessively than most,
which is why I have such problems. I mean, I HAMMER
those mothers. (Thanks,
Brad, for building strong brackets: I have tested
them to the
extreme.)
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:07:34
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Squirting water
> There has to be a more scientific way of
figuring all this out. Has anybody
- ---
Bigger brakes
-
-or-
Better pads
- -or-
Less vehicle weight.
Since water
capacity is limited..those are the only three absolute
solutions
available. The water issue is pretty much a best-effort, as you
wont be
getting enough time between braking situations, to work with any
scientific
cooling curve measurements of the rotors and pads.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 12:07:58
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Squirting water
>Bigger brakes
>-or-
>Better
pads
>-or-
>Less vehicle weight.
I've already done #1 and #2
(to the limit of my budget)
>
>Since water capacity is
limited..those are the only three absolute
>solutions available. The
water issue is pretty much a best-effort, as you
>wont be getting enough
time between braking situations, to work with any
>scientific cooling
curve measurements of the rotors and pads.
>
Well, like I said, if I
could just figure out where I was wasting water,
that would be a huge
help.
It'd make the water I have last the entire
session.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:33:10
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Squirting water
Are you spraying on the rotor, or in the
vanes?
On Mon, 15 Jan 2001, Merritt wrote:
> >Bigger
brakes
> >-or-
> >Better pads
> >-or-
>
>Less vehicle weight.
>
> I've already done #1 and #2 (to the
limit of my budget)
> >
> >Since water capacity is
limited..those are the only three absolute
> >solutions
available. The water issue is pretty much a best-effort, as you
>
>wont be getting enough time between braking situations, to work with
any
> >scientific cooling curve measurements of the rotors and
pads.
> >
> Well, like I said, if I could just figure out where I
was wasting water,
> that would be a huge help.
> It'd make the
water I have last the entire session.
>
> Rich
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:39:58
-0800
From: bob koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: De-frost replacements
- -- Dear team3s,
A little about me, I
am a CMM Programmer by trade (thats right
co-ordinate measureing machine) in
a large aerospace company.....point
is I have a lot of connections with
vendors on neat little things I want
made....so here is the thing...I am a
new owner of a 93 dodge r/t
stealth and every day I look at those cracked
vents and it drives me
nuts. I have no idea about patents or copywrights but
it is my intension
to mold some replacements out of graphite. My initial
thought was
titainium but with the sun on this metal I do believe it will be
hell on
the dashboard. Graphite will look cooler and easier to make anyhow.
The
question.....Is thier enough interest in this to make more than
one
set?....I havent even gotten my manuals in the mail yet so seeing
how
they are installed is all greek at this point. But I hate them
sitting
there just looking at me and laughing.
any
interests?
bob k.
jckbkoch@aol.com for private
E-mail
- ---------------------------------------------
Robert
Koch
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 13:38:26
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Squirting water
How about a follower (person in another car
behind you) watching and in
radio contact telling you if they see steam or
water coming from under your
car. Or buy the whole track for a day and
after a lap go and look at where
the wet spots are on the track.
Another solution (driving schools won't
allow this) is to mount a video
camera out the window and pointing at the
wheel so you can see when it steams
or not.
The follower method is less scientific but instant
feedback. "Boy Rich,
there was a ton of water coming out behind your
wheel there. Did you just
waste the whole bottle?" or "Man, it's like
you hit the 'smoke cloud' button
Mr. Bond."
The problem is getting
someone to follow close enough behind you. Anyone
have a tricked-out M3
available or a Viper, Vette, or Porsche with a daring
enough driver?
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Monday, January 15, 2001 13:08
To: Geoff Mohler
Cc: Jim Berry;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Squirting water
Well, like I said, if I could just figure out
where I was wasting water,
that would be a huge help.
It'd make the water
I have last the entire session.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 12:57:51
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Squirting water
At 10:33 AM 1/15/01 -0800, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>Are you spraying on the rotor, or in the vanes?
>
Right
onto the rotor.
It's hard to spray into the vanes, since air is coming
out of there.
TransAm cars spray into the vanes at the caliper, because the
water flashes
to steam and the steam then helps cool the piston seals. In
other words,
the water that TransAm cars spray does not cool the brakes, it
cools the
pistons.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 13:00:25
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Squirting water
At 01:38 PM 1/15/01 -0500, you
wrote:
>How about a follower (person in another car behind you) watching
and in
>radio contact telling you if they see steam or water coming from
under your
>car.
No one has ever said they saw steam coming
from my car.
Or buy the whole track for a day and after a lap go and look
at where
>the wet spots are on the track.
If I could afford
that, I'd spend the money on a set of huge brakes.
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 14:15:13
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Squirting water
We just need a temperature gauge that reads
quick enough off brake temps. A
thermometer takes too long. We
need a pyrometer hooked up to point at the
rotors and then send the reading
to a gauge on the dash.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Monday, January 15, 2001 14:00
To: Schilberg, Darren; Geoff Mohler
Cc: Jim
Berry;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Squirting water
At 01:38 PM 1/15/01 -0500, you
wrote:
>How about a follower (person in another car behind you) watching
and in
>radio contact telling you if they see steam or water coming from
under your
>car.
No one has ever said they saw steam coming
from my car.
Or buy the whole track for a day and after a lap go and look
at where
>the wet spots are on the track.
If I could afford
that, I'd spend the money on a set of huge brakes.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 14:17:02
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Squirting water
How about hooking up something that squirts
from inside the rotor hat
through the vanes so water and air get out through
the vanes?
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Monday, January 15, 2001 13:58
To: Geoff Mohler
Cc: Jim Berry;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Squirting water
At 10:33 AM 1/15/01 -0800, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>Are you spraying on the rotor, or in the vanes?
>
Right
onto the rotor.
It's hard to spray into the vanes, since air is coming
out of there.
TransAm cars spray into the vanes at the caliper, because the
water flashes
to steam and the steam then helps cool the piston seals. In
other words,
the water that TransAm cars spray does not cool the brakes, it
cools the
pistons.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 11:28:38
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Squirting water
"We just need" Im not aware of any
infrared mountable pyros with a remote
guage...offhand. *heh*
On
Mon, 15 Jan 2001, Schilberg, Darren wrote:
> We just need a
temperature gauge that reads quick enough off brake temps. A
>
thermometer takes too long. We need a pyrometer hooked up to point at
the
> rotors and then send the reading to a gauge on the dash.
>
> --Flash!
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 14:00
> To: Schilberg, Darren; Geoff
Mohler
> Cc: Jim Berry;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Squirting water
>
> At 01:38 PM 1/15/01 -0500,
you wrote:
> >How about a follower (person in another car behind you)
watching and in
> >radio contact telling you if they see steam or water
coming from under your
> >car.
>
> No one has ever
said they saw steam coming from my car.
>
> Or buy the whole track
for a day and after a lap go and look at where
> >the wet spots are on
the track.
>
> If I could afford that, I'd spend the money
on a set of huge brakes.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 12:53:48
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: part
number for lifters
anyone have the Mitsu part number for the new,
improved
hydraulic lifters
???
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:17:26
-0500
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Lash Adjuster
All,
6 wks. of storage (I'm convinced theres
nothing worse you can do for your
car) resulted in one extremely noisy
lifter. After driving for a couple
miles it hasn't improved. I
suspect one of the lash adjusters has trapped
air. The service manual
refers to a lash adjuster bleeding procedure that
is described in the `engine
service manual'. This is a new one. I thought
the service manual
was the engine service manual. Anyway, does anyone have
any info on
this procedure.
Thanks in advance,
DaveT/92TT
Shop online
without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.comRocketCash, a
NetZero subsidiary
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:31:12
-0500
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Water Brakes
Rich,
I've rigged up a slick little spray
nozzle spraying right behind the caliper
between the caliper and the spindle,
toward the back side of the rotor. The
only problem is how to convince
the wipers to not turn on when using the
spray. I hate to pull the
wiper fuse since track time in the rain is not
uncommon. Have you found
a way around this?
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
Shop online without
a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.comRocketCash, a
NetZero subsidiary
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 13:38:41
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lash Adjuster
Dave,
I can think of many things that
are worse than letting a car sit for
6 weeks. :) Using dirty oil every day is
just one. Increasing boost
without monitoring knock is another.
The
'engine service manual' may be the "Engine Overhaul Manual" that
is easily
available by getting the Manual on CD from Vineet Singh
(see my Links Web
Page for his url). On page 11E-88 it lists this
procedure for prepping a new
lash adjuster.
(1) Immerse the lash adjuster in clean diesel fuel.
(2)
Using a small wire, move the plunger up and down 4 or 5 times
while lightly
pushing down the check ball in order to bleed out the
air.
(3) Install the
lash adjuster to the cylinder head.
Hope this helps,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: "Team 3S"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 15, 2001 2:17 PM
Subject: Team3S: Lash
Adjuster
All,
6 wks. of storage (I'm convinced theres nothing
worse you can do for
your car) resulted in one extremely noisy lifter.
After driving for
a couple miles it hasn't improved. I suspect one of
the lash
adjusters has trapped air. The service manual refers to a
lash
adjuster bleeding procedure that is described in the `engine
service
manual'. This is a new one. I thought the service manual
was the
engine service manual. Anyway, does anyone have any info on
this
procedure.
Thanks in
advance,
DaveT/92TT
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:41:52
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
AVC - D(?) Boost controller?
I have an opportunity to buy one of these,
anyone familiar with it? Is
this one as good as the
AVC-R??
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:14:41
EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: part number for lifters
VEN PART
MIT
MD337687
They were $254.40 for 24 back in May 99 at Tallahassee
Mitsub
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 01/15/2001 3:56:20 PM
Eastern Standard Time,
fastmax@home.com writes:
<<
Subj: Team3S: part number for
lifters
Date: 01/15/2001 3:56:20 PM Eastern Standard
Time
From:
fastmax@home.com
(Jim Berry)
Sender:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st anyone
have the Mitsu part number for the new, improved
hydraulic lifters
???
Jim
Berry
>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:08:07
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Water Brakes
At 04:31 PM 1/15/01 -0500, Trent
wrote:
>Rich,
>
>I've rigged up a slick little spray nozzle
spraying right behind the caliper
>between the caliper and the spindle,
toward the back side of the rotor. The
>only problem is how to
convince the wipers to not turn on when using the
>spray. I hate to
pull the wiper fuse since track time in the rain is not
>uncommon.
Have you found a way around this?
Absolutely! Just pull the connector
from the windshield wiper motor. Takes
two seconds. That way, you can use the
windshield washer lever to spray the
water without having the wipers move. If
it's raining, just put it back.
You won't need brake cooling in the
rain.
Rich
.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 19:54:55
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: road noise
I have always been quite annoyed on long trips with
the loud road noise I
hear from the tires. In time, I have learned to
just turn up the radio to
combat the annoying drone. Lately, however, I
have started to hear a new
noise. It sounds like it comes from the
front and increases with speed. It
goes something like wub-wub-wub
continuously. I have tried to locate this
noise to no avail. The
front end feels a bit loose and the car slightly
oversteers, so I thought it
might be the struts (86,000 miles). I found no
oil residue and do not
want to change them for no reason. It almost drives
like the
front sway bar was disconnected on one side. I checked the
endlinks and
bushings and it all looks tight. Do you think this may be a
bad strut
or something else?
Also, if its a daily driver, do you guys/gals
think the Tein HA Coilover
system is too harsh? Its easier to convince
the wife to purchase something
if I can prove I need
it!
Thanks
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From:
AABOMB1@aol.com <
AABOMB1@aol.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Saturday, December 30, 2000 6:34 PM
Subject: Team3S: rotors and
pads
>Hello list members.
>
>I have a warped rotor, so
in a month or two I will be ordering a new set of
>rotors and pads. I
decided I want to just go ahead and buy the best set
>available. Which
rotors would you all recommend? Any particular pads or
just
>the
factory?
>
>Please keep in mind that I need these parts for a
*non*turbo and I would
like
>to spend something no higher than in the
upper three figures.
>
>I appreciate it!
>
>'94 3000GT
(Naturally Aspirated
DOHC)
>AA
>
>-------------------
>E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.com>Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In
The United States]
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 00:59:07
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC - D(?) Boost controller?
> I have an opportunity to
buy one of these, anyone familiar with it? Is
> this one as good as
the AVC-R??
No, it's an rpm controlled simple boost controller that is
not used a lot.
It is not produced anymore and yo ucan invest your money
better.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:28:18
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Eibach Rear bushing
Hey, Dave,
I wasn't brave enough to do
my own install, but I just made sure the
installers saw the little extra
instruction note. Which appears moot if
it was just about trimming the
bump stops - my foggy memory from 2 years
ago made me think it was something
that affected ride height, which
doesn't appear to be the case... Then
again, it might have been a
different setup for my 2nd-gen Stealth NT than
for a 1st gen 3kGT turbo.
They are different kits. I no longer have the
instruction sheets,
either - they were in the box with the stock springs, and
that got
tossed recently. (Something about storing them in the spare
bedroom
pissed off my lady, so I just dumped them). :-) I wish I
could help
you more.
Some folks have actually cut down the springs to
lower the car further,
but I'd explore using shorter springs before going
that route. BTW...
Make sure you get a full 4W alignment once they
settle in. Good luck.
Best,
Forrest
- ----- Original
Message ----- From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
>
Bob,
> Thanks for the info. I installed the springs myself, so I get
full
credit.
> You are right, it is the Pro-kit. Unfortunately, I
only recieved a
yellow,
> 2 page instruction sheet pertaining to all
cars. This only describes
> trimming the bump stops. (Which
has no effect on ride height and only
> recommends removing 15mm off of
the front with no change to the rear).
I
> fear I recieved no
additional info on modifying any of the rear
bushings.
> Would it be
possible for you to help me identify which bushing is to
be
>
trimmed? I don't recall any bushings located between the spring
and
the
> mounting points but on the other hand, the only thing I
remember with
> clearity, was how hard it was, removing one of the siezed
rear shock
mounts.
> I ended up forcing the rear shock off of its own
semi-permanently
attached
> rubber bushing with the inner steel coller
still happily seized to the
> mounting pin. I can hardly wait to go
at it again.
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
> > They only
settle slightly, and don't lose any noticeable height.
There
> > is
a little extra instruction sheet 'afterthought' that comes with
the
>
> Pro Kit (it doesn't look important and might easily be missed by an
>
> installer) that specifies slicing the rear fiber grommet-washer
>
> approximately in half. It could make you 20mm (.8") lower (if
it
wasn't
> > done). Mine still sits pretty high even *with*
halving the
grommet...
> > I don't know if it's the same deal with
the "sport kit", which I'm
not
> > familiar with...
> >
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:35:49
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Lash Adjuster
For the second open track event in a row I find that 1½ to
2 hours of
high speed driving cleared up my lifter tic. The first time the
tic came
back after about 8 months ---- I Went to Willow Springs over
the
weekend and lo and behold the lifter tic is gone again. I find
this
method much more interesting then flushing the lifters with
diesel
fuel or running some ATF before an oil change.
I'm not sure of
the reason but sustained high RPM driving would
seem to be of some benefit to
me and my lifters --- anyone else have
any experience along these
lines.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
>
Dave,
>
> The 'engine service manual' may be the "Engine Overhaul
Manual" that
> is easily available by getting the Manual on CD from Vineet
Singh
> (see my Links Web Page for his url). On page 11E-88 it lists
this
> procedure for prepping a new lash adjuster.
>
> (1)
Immerse the lash adjuster in clean diesel fuel.
> (2) Using a small wire,
move the plunger up and down 4 or 5 times
> while lightly pushing down the
check ball in order to bleed out the
> air.
> (3) Install the lash
adjuster to the cylinder head.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
. I
suspect one of the lash
> adjusters has trapped air. The service
manual refers to a lash
> adjuster bleeding procedure that is described in
the `engine service
> manual'. This is a new one. I thought
the service manual was the
> engine service manual. Anyway, does
anyone have any info on this
> procedure.
>
> Thanks in
advance,
> DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 18:44:45
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
road noise
This could be early signs of a tire going bad. It could
also be an unevenly
wearing tire, or a (slightly) imbalanced tire.
Sometimes tweaked wheels are
the cause of this uneven wear. Sometimes
it is suspension, others driving
habits, inflation, simply the way the tire
works, etc.
In any case it would be best to have the tire thoroughly
checked out, or
remove it from the car so you can have a proper look it at
and check it
yourself.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> I have always been quite annoyed on long
trips with the loud road noise I
> hear from the tires. In time, I
have learned to just turn up the radio to
> combat the annoying
drone. Lately, however, I have started to hear a new
> noise.
It sounds like it comes from the front and increases with
> speed.
It
> goes something like wub-wub-wub continuously. I have tried to
locate this
> noise to no avail. The front end feels a bit loose and
the car slightly
> oversteers, so I thought it might be the struts (86,000
miles).
> I found no
> oil residue and do not want to change them
for no reason. It
> almost drives
> like the front sway
bar was disconnected on one side. I checked the
> endlinks and
bushings and it all looks tight. Do you think this may be a
> bad
strut or something else?
> Also, if its a daily driver,
do you guys/gals think the Tein
> HA Coilover
> system is too
harsh? Its easier to convince the wife to purchase
>
something
> if I can prove I need it!
>
> Thanks
>
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:53:29
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Would you be interested in?
Merritt
It would look as though
Hotlap has a similar device [ see link ]. Their performance
monitoring option
to the Hot Lap timer seems the same as what you're talking
about --- less
cooling sprays etc. In addition you can download the lap info to
a computer
for analysis.
http://www.stable-energies.com/hotlap/hotlap.html
Jim Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>; <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>;
<
> >
> 1. Hook up a 1/1000th reading odometer sending unit to
the front wheels
> (less likely to spin). Any rally odo would work.
> 2. Hook up a start/finish line photocell/manual switch.
> 3. Hook
up a START INTERVAL and a STOP INTERVAL pushbutton.
> 4. Hook up green,
yellow and red indicator lights in front of the driver.
> 5. Connect
everything to an onboard computer.
>
> Go out for a recce
(reconnaissance run) and click START INTERVAL at the
> entrance to each
turn and STOP INTERVAL at the exit of each turn. Use
> landmarks, such as
braking zone numbers, curbs, etc.
> We are essentially mapping out the
course, measuring every interval to the
> 1/1000th of a mile.
>
> Now, when we start running laps, we click the start/finish line button
(or
> let the photocell do it) on our first hot lap. The computer logs in
our
> initial lap times and interval times. Every time we cross the
start/finish
> line, it resets the odometer to 0.000 and logs the lap
time.
>
> As we run succeeding laps, the computer checks each
interval time, and
> compares it to the previous times. If this time is
slower, it flashes the
> red light; if within a tenth of the previous time
it flashes the yellow
> light; if faster than before, it flashes the green
light. If it's the
> fastest interval of all, it flashes all three lights.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:11:23
-0600
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Lash Adjuster
My question is .... was that 6 wks in the Winter? I
don't know where you live,
but I routinely store my car (start it every 2-3
weeks) and in the dead of cold
Winter I notice a little lifter tick, but as
soon as the car warms up or if I
run it in Spring through Fall it's fine, no
problem. Don't confuse the natural
properties of oil (i.e. getting
thick and viscous when cold and not flowing
very well) with the infamous
"lifter tick" and do a bunch of maintenance for
nothing .... you may not even
have a problem.
Best,
Greg
Trent wrote:
>
All,
>
> 6 wks. of storage (I'm convinced theres nothing worse you
can do for your
> car) resulted in one extremely noisy lifter. After
driving for a couple
> miles it hasn't improved. I suspect one of
the lash adjusters has trapped
> air. The service manual refers to a
lash adjuster bleeding procedure that
> is described in the `engine
service manual'. This is a new one. I thought
> the service
manual was the engine service manual. Anyway, does anyone have
> any
info on this procedure.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
DaveT/92TT
>
> Shop online without a credit card
>
http://www.rocketcash.com>
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:10:56
-0500
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Eibach Rear bushing
Bob,
Thanks for the reply, I can
appreciate the spare bedroom delema. I'm going
to hang loose and give
the springs time to settle. If track performance is
acceptable (i.e. if
the rear end dosn't take on a life of its own going into
turns) I'll live
with slammed front look. I suspect Eibach intentionally
limits the rear
drop since there is little if any adjustment for camber
change on the rear
without modification.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
Shop online
without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.comRocketCash, a
NetZero subsidiary
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:16:03
-0500
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Lash Adjuster
Now thats advise I can appreciate. I will try
it out as soon as the salt to
pavement ratio improves in Indiana. BTW
does lifter tic return after
therapy?
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
-
----- Original Message -----
> I'm not sure of the reason but
sustained high RPM driving would
> seem to be of some benefit to me and my
lifters --- anyone else have
> any experience along these
lines.
>
> Jim
Berry
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.comRocketCash, a
NetZero subsidiary
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:20:25
-0600
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Squirting water
I'm not infinitely versed in high temp Pyrometers, but it
seems to me you would
only need to go so far as to buy a simple IR
temperature meter for a 100 bucks
or so, disassemble it, and hook the
components up as you see fit. Cheap, easy,
and straight forward.
Shoot it wouldn't even be that difficult to rig up a
little IC chip and relay
to even automatically pump cooling water at a certain
temp. I
don't have a background in Electrical or Electronics Engineering, but
I'm
fairly certain it could be done inexpensively by a properly
motivated
individual. If I had the time I might even try to build it as
a kit to sell,
but at the moment I'm utterly swamped at work and home .....
if there is still
interest this Summer though I might see what a friend of
mine and I can whip
together.
Greg
"Schilberg,
Darren" wrote:
> We just need a temperature gauge that reads quick
enough off brake temps. A
> thermometer takes too long. We
need a pyrometer hooked up to point at the
> rotors and then send the
reading to a gauge on the dash.
>
> --Flash!
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 14:00
>
To: Schilberg, Darren; Geoff Mohler
>
Cc: Jim Berry;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Squirting
water
>
> At 01:38 PM 1/15/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >How
about a follower (person in another car behind you) watching and in
>
>radio contact telling you if they see steam or water coming from under
your
> >car.
>
> No one has ever said they saw steam coming
from my car.
>
> Or buy the whole track for a day and after a lap go
and look at where
> >the wet spots are on the track.
>
> If
I could afford that, I'd spend the money on a set of huge
brakes.
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 18:34:39
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Lash Adjuster
Dave
The tic did return but it took about 6 to 8 months
---- I didn't pay any
attention as to how much track time it took to
eliminate the tic but it
sounds like another good excuse to
race.
Jim
Berry
=======================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Trent <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: Team 3S
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Now thats advise I can appreciate. I will try it out as soon as the salt
to
> pavement ratio improves in Indiana. BTW does lifter tic return
after
> therapy?
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
==========
> > I'm not sure of the reason but sustained high RPM
driving would
> > seem to be of some benefit to me and my lifters ---
anyone else have
> > any experience along these lines.
>
>
> > Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:57:02
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: road noise
Sam,
What year and model car
do you have and are there any mods to it? If you
have the infamous
1995+ with automatic sunroof VR-4 (not sure about TT) then
some coilovers
will not fit from any standard catalog. See the thread on
"Suspension
for 1995 VR-4" for some background.
Not sure suspension would
make a different noise at different speeds
though. Speed related sounds
from one corner are 95% part of the wheel or
tire and usually out of round or
pressure.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor KV85 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry E. King
[
mailto:beking@home.com]
Sent: Monday,
January 15, 2001 20:45
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: road noise
This could be early signs of a tire going
bad. It could also be an unevenly
wearing tire, or a (slightly)
imbalanced tire. Sometimes tweaked wheels are
the cause of this uneven
wear. Sometimes it is suspension, others driving
habits, inflation,
simply the way the tire works, etc.
In any case it would be best to have
the tire thoroughly checked out, or
remove it from the car so you can have a
proper look it at and check it
yourself.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
>
> I have always been quite
annoyed on long trips with the loud road noise I
> hear from the
tires. In time, I have learned to just turn up the radio to
> combat
the annoying drone. Lately, however, I have started to hear a new
>
noise. It sounds like it comes from the front and increases with
>
speed. It
> goes something like wub-wub-wub continuously. I
have tried to locate this
> noise to no avail. The front end feels a
bit loose and the car slightly
> oversteers, so I thought it might be the
struts (86,000 miles).
> I found no
> oil residue and do not want to
change them for no reason. It
> almost drives
> like the
front sway bar was disconnected on one side. I checked the
>
endlinks and bushings and it all looks tight. Do you think this may be
a
> bad strut or something else?
> Also, if its a
daily driver, do you guys/gals think the Tein
> HA Coilover
> system
is too harsh? Its easier to convince the wife to purchase
>
something
> if I can prove I need it!
>
> Thanks
>
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:53:00
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: road noise
At 06:44 PM 1/15/01 -0700, Barry E. King
wrote:
>This could be early signs of a tire going bad. It could also
be an unevenly
>wearing tire, or a (slightly) imbalanced tire.
Sometimes tweaked wheels are
>the cause of this uneven wear.
Sometimes it is suspension, others driving
>habits, inflation, simply the
way the tire works, etc.
I have two+ degrees of negative camber (on
purpose), and I get the same
noise you describe. I think Barry is right: get
yer car checked for
alignment. You mighta hit a pothole or a curb, and
knocked it out.
Thank goodness the Kumhos are quieter than the Yoko 032R
tires. I couldn't
stand driving around with all this negative camber AND a
set of howling Yokos.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:19:07
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Would you be interested in?
Merritt
The monitor device has a set
of lights that indicate better/worse and can also
be adjusted for large or
small changes . Having said that I only read through the
sales pitch once and
may have misread.
After my weekend at Willow Springs I decided that a
hot lap timer is a must.
Without a time reference it's tough to know what a
driving change did, seat
of the pants is not enough. I'd like more info about
the lap monitor, but for
an additional $200 it doesn't seem too
bad.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>; Ken
Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>;
> At 05:53 PM 1/15/01 -0800, Jim Berry wrote:
> >Merritt
>
>
> >It would look as though Hotlap has a similar device [ see link
]. Their
> performance
> >monitoring option to the Hot Lap timer
seems the same as what you're talking
> >about --- less cooling sprays
etc. In addition you can download the lap
> info to
> >a
computer for analysis.
> >
> Yes, that's very close.
>
I'll have to ponder that one.
> I wonder if exit speed is an
accurate representation of the fastest elapsed
> time through a corner.
Maybe so. I'd rather have an indicator light tell me
> that I was fast or
slow instead of having to memorize the last speed
> through every turn,
but I guess you can't have everything.
>
> Rich
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 22:32:52
-0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Would you be interested in?
The biggest bonus on the Geez
cube is the fact that you can use a Palm
Pilot. One could fasten that
down anywhere, or even just toss it in the
glove box/center
console.
It's good to see other products though, I'd be interested in
seeing the
other products out there.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 10:19 PM
To: Ken
Middaugh;
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
Merritt
Cc:
jczoom@iname.com; Robby; George Shaw;
Schilberg, Darren; Mikael Kenson;
Steve Lasher RdAtl; Kevin
Schappell
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Would you be interested
in?
Merritt
The monitor device has a set of lights that indicate
better/worse and can
also
be adjusted for large or small changes . Having
said that I only read
through the
sales pitch once and may have
misread.
After my weekend at Willow Springs I decided that a hot lap
timer is a must.
Without a time reference it's tough to know what a driving
change did, seat
of the pants is not enough. I'd like more info about the lap
monitor, but
for
an additional $200 it doesn't seem too
bad.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>; Ken
Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>;
>
At 05:53 PM 1/15/01 -0800, Jim Berry wrote:
> >Merritt
>
>
> >It would look as though Hotlap has a similar device [ see link
]. Their
> performance
> >monitoring option to the Hot Lap timer
seems the same as what you're
talking
> >about --- less cooling
sprays etc. In addition you can download the lap
> info to
> >a
computer for analysis.
> >
> Yes, that's very close.
>
I'll have to ponder that one.
> I wonder if exit speed is an
accurate representation of the fastest
elapsed
> time through a corner.
Maybe so. I'd rather have an indicator light tell
me
> that I was fast
or slow instead of having to memorize the last speed
> through every turn,
but I guess you can't have everything.
>
>
Rich
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 00:14:43
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: road noise
This is from a great friend of mine who has an
answer to your question since
the same thing happened to him.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor KV85 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Zeoswolf@aol.com [
mailto:Zeoswolf@aol.com]
Sent: Monday,
January 15, 2001 23:57
To:
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com
Subject: Re: FW: Team3S: road noise
Hey Flash,
I
know what this problem is and noise the guy is hearing. This
happened
with my Stealth too... but of course im not on the list to tell
him.....
It's a bearing going bad. That is it.. from the dealership..
installed it
is like 240 bucks.
Let the list
know.
James
94 R/T
-----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 21:53
To: Barry E. King;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: road noise
At 06:44 PM 1/15/01 -0700, Barry E. King
wrote:
>This could be early signs of a tire going bad. It could also
be an
unevenly
>wearing tire, or a (slightly) imbalanced tire.
Sometimes tweaked wheels
are
>the cause of this uneven wear.
Sometimes it is suspension, others driving
>habits, inflation, simply the
way the tire works, etc.
I have two+ degrees of negative camber (on
purpose), and I get the same
noise you describe. I think Barry is right: get
yer car checked for
alignment. You mighta hit a pothole or a curb, and
knocked it out.
Thank goodness the Kumhos are quieter than the Yoko 032R
tires. I couldn't
stand driving around with all this negative camber AND a
set of howling
Yokos.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:21:28
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Water Brakes
Hi Trent,
Just disconnect the
wiperconnector. Its near the
firewall on the battery side.
Somehow during
AutoCross runns, I would somehow frequently touch
the
windshield wiper control and set wipers in motion.
WOW it
that distracting!! So I looked in the shop
manual and found the
location of the wiper connector.
Could you EMail me privately about
the brand/model of
spray nozzel you use??? I'd like to try the
spay
setup you have.
Be of good cheer,
John
- --- Trent
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
wrote:
> Rich,
>
> I've rigged up a slick little spray nozzle
spraying
> right behind the caliper
> between the caliper and the
spindle, toward the back
> side of the rotor. The
> only
problem is how to convince the wipers to not
> turn on when using
the
> spray. I hate to pull the wiper fuse since track
> time
in the rain is not
> uncommon. Have you found a way around
this?
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
>
>
Shop online without a credit card
>
http://www.rocketcash.com>
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:29:09
-0800
From: "Chad Beeder" <
syzygy@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Steering wheel shake while breaking = Lower control arms?
Over the past
few months, my car has developed a steering wheel shake while
braking, which
is really noticeable at highway speeds. I took it into the
dealer to
have the rotors resurfaced, thinking that it was just
warped
rotors.
The dealer told me that the rotors are fine, but that
both of my lower
lateral control arms need to be replaced, and quoted me
$900. Does this
sound legitimate, or am I getting ripped off?
Assuming the diagnosis is
correct, I plan to get some other estimates for the
job, but I wanted to
know if this even sounds like a plausible explanation
given the symptoms.
(Note that the shaking only happens when I apply the
brakes.)
Appreciate anyone's advice on this.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#378
*********************
