team3s
Monday, January 15
2001 Volume 01
: Number
377
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Jan 2001 08:44:15 -0500
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Eibach Rear bushing
Bob,
Thanks for the info. I
installed the springs myself, so I get full credit.
You are right, it is the
Pro-kit. Unfortunately, I only recieved a yellow,
2 page instruction
sheet pertaining to all cars. This only describes
trimming the bump
stops. (Which has no effect on ride height and only
recommends removing
15mm off of the front with no change to the rear). I
fear I recieved no
additional info on modifying any of the rear bushings.
Would it be possible
for you to help me identify which bushing is to be
trimmed? I don't
recall any bushings located between the spring and the
mounting points but on
the other hand, the only thing I remember with
clearity, was how hard it was,
removing one of the siezed rear shock mounts.
I ended up forcing the rear
shock off of its own semi-permanently attached
rubber bushing with the inner
steel coller still happily seized to the
mounting pin. I can hardly
wait to go at it again.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
> They only
settle slightly, and don't lose any noticeable height. There
> is a
little extra instruction sheet 'afterthought' that comes with the
> Pro
Kit (it doesn't look important and might easily be missed by an
>
installer) that specifies slicing the rear fiber grommet-washer
>
approximately in half. It could make you 20mm (.8") lower (if it
wasn't
> done). Mine still sits pretty high even *with* halving the
grommet...
> I don't know if it's the same deal with the "sport kit",
which I'm not
> familiar with...
>
>
Forrest
Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.comRocketCash, a
NetZero subsidiary
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 11:45:47
-0600
From:
kalla@tripoint.orgSubject: Re: Team3S:
AWD transaxle driveshaft seal
> Unless you are REALLY strong, you
can't merely just yank it, you'll need
> some kind of mechanical leverage
to get it out. A small crowbar might also
> work.
I used a
small prybar to remove the seal. I wanted to be absolutely
sure there
wasn't anything on the inside lip of the tranny I could
rupture or damage by
sticking a pry bar in there.
I used a circular piece of plastic put over
the seal and drove it in
with a hammer. I just drove the car about 100 miles
and everything
seems to be well.
Thanks for the suggestions. Thanks
to Jeff Lucius too for his
awesome tech page. Was very helpful this
weekend.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 15:23:51
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Shifter moving in fifth
Mike,
I had the exact same problem in my
previous 93 base Stealth at about 105K
miles. The car would jump out of
5th gear when stepping off the throttle
suddenly. I did not repair it
right away and just learned to drive the car
mre carefully (I would step off
the throttle lightly and more predictably).
I drove the car for about 1/2 yr.
like this, until all the gears started
working hard all of a sudden. On
the same day the reverse gear stopped
working on me (wouldn't go in
reverse).
So now I was forced to take it to a mechanic. All in all
it cost a lot
($2000 initially, including changing a 50K clutch). Then,
one day, soon
after the fix, the car jumped out of 5th again. This
time, the mechanic
said it was the center shaft in the trannie. He said
it must have had a
hairline crack in it when he replaced all the other
parts. It cost me $400
to replace the shaft and the end cap of the
trannie and the end nut by 5th
gear. Now the car drove fine for a few
days until the clutch cylinder from
inside the car gave out. He
switched that for $150.
Al in all, it was a troublesome deal. It
would probably have been less
expensive if I had repaired the car
earlier. Maybe someone off the list can
advise you on where to send
your trannie for a rebuild, or you may just want
to take it to a
mechanic. I believe I paid too much for my work, so don't
do the same
mistake as me. The car drives great now and it has 120K miles.
Good
luck,
- -MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
John,
brother
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu94 Pearl Yellow
TT
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
Top speed
after mods 169 mph
Mom
93 Red Dodge Stealth Base Stock
Top speed
140 mph (optimistic 1st gen speedometer speed)
Detroit Metro Area,
Michigan
- -------------------------------------------
Hello
all, my shifter has began to move in fifth when I get on and off
the
gas. I know about the problem with the nut on the fifth gear
assembly in
DSM's and the two trannies look identical but has anybody on
the list had
this problem with a stealth/3kgt and fixed it by
retightening the
nut?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 12:12:41
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing turbo set-up on ebay
Have you
thought about why this setup has been on sale ?
I think it is a damn clean
and nice setup even the exhaust manifolds are
stainless steel but the
quality seems to be really god. But this made me
thinking and then I noticed
the turbo-exhaust flanges and thought by myself
that here is something
really missing ... the wastegate outlet !
Of course the gate is within
the turbine housing but then the gases sent
through it are running against
the plate causing a turbulence before the
exhaust pipe. This results in a
higher backpressure to the turbine what
results in less
efficiency.
In fact these are not exhaust flange housings like the stock
parts are as
theses are "just" turbine housing plates where the exhaust pipe
has been
attached. Unfortunately, in this design the O2 sensors become more
a
restriction as in the stock parts too.
The design would be perfect
if there would be an additional pipe running 2"
from the place where the wg
sits and then bends into the exhaust pipe as
well as if the O2 sensor
threads would be better placed. This could still
be done but then the setup
becomes even more expensive.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:41:21
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Would you be interested in?
>
>Hey guys, if you
could take a look at this product and let me know if you'd
>be interested
in such an item. I will be purchasing it soon and wanted to
>see if
we could do some sort of "group buy" for the item.
>
All these
acceleration gadgets are very pretty, but a little useless in my
opinion.
I have had an idea for a truly useful gadget for about 20 years, and
never
got around to building it.
Here's the idea, in case we have some
computer wizards out there:
1. Hook up a 1/1000th reading odometer
sending unit to the front wheels
(less likely to spin). Any rally odo would
work.
2. Hook up a start/finish line photocell/manual switch.
3. Hook up
a START INTERVAL and a STOP INTERVAL pushbutton.
4. Hook up green, yellow and
red indicator lights in front of the driver.
5. Connect everything to an
onboard computer.
Go out for a recce (reconnaissance run) and click
START INTERVAL at the
entrance to each turn and STOP INTERVAL at the exit of
each turn. Use
landmarks, such as braking zone numbers, curbs, etc.
We are
essentially mapping out the course, measuring every interval to the
1/1000th
of a mile.
Now, when we start running laps, we click the start/finish
line button (or
let the photocell do it) on our first hot lap. The computer
logs in our
initial lap times and interval times. Every time we cross the
start/finish
line, it resets the odometer to 0.000 and logs the lap time.
As we run succeeding laps, the computer checks each interval time,
and
compares it to the previous times. If this time is slower, it flashes
the
red light; if within a tenth of the previous time it flashes the
yellow
light; if faster than before, it flashes the green light. If it's
the
fastest interval of all, it flashes all three lights.
The
advantage of this system is obvious: If you are working on a particular
turn,
you can find out RIGHT NOW if you were faster or slower with a
particular
cornering method. You can move the braking point forward or
back, change
the turn in, select the proper gear, etc. No more waiting 2+
minutes to
get a lap time.
For example, I had a problem at Road America in deciding
whether to change
down to 2nd or 3rd at Canada Corner; it seemed that 2nd was
too low,
although I launched out of it great; 3rd was a bit too high,
because
although it carried me to the track out point at a hellacious rate,
it
bogged on the exit because I was off boost. If I had an interval timer,
it
would've told me what the correct gear was.
Upon completion of the
session, plug in a laptop computer to get a complete
readout of all the laps
including (are you ready for this?) a theoretical
fastest lap based on
putting together all the fastest interval times.
PHASE 2: As long
as we have the course mapped out with accurate mileages,
and we have a
computer in the car, we can automate a few things. It would
be nice to squirt
water on the brakes at the optimum time for cooling or
change the settings on
the boost controller or raise or lower the rear
wing, all depending upon
where one was on the track at the time. For
example, we don't need wing going
down the front straight at Road America,
but we need it in the Carousel. It'd
be nice to be able to just program
that in. If we had adjustable shocks, it
would be nice to soften them up
for the strut-busting Carousel at Heartland
Park and then immediately
stiffen them up for the next 80 mph sweeper. I'd
also like to be able to
recycle brake fluid through a cooler, spray water on
intercoolers, and do
all sorts of other stuff that can't be done manually.
The computer could also be used for data acquisition of brake
temperatures,
intercooler temps, EGTs, acceleration, g-forces and anything
else you want.
If any of you build this, I want one.
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of team3s V1
#377
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