team3s            Monday, January 15 2001            Volume 01 : Number 377




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Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 08:44:15 -0500
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Eibach Rear bushing

Bob,

Thanks for the info.  I installed the springs myself, so I get full credit.
You are right, it is the Pro-kit.  Unfortunately, I only recieved a yellow,
2 page instruction sheet pertaining to all cars.  This only describes
trimming the bump stops.  (Which has no effect on ride height and only
recommends removing 15mm off of the front with no change to the rear).  I
fear I recieved no additional info on modifying any of the rear bushings.
Would it be possible for you to help me identify which bushing is to be
trimmed?  I don't recall any bushings located between the spring and the
mounting points but on the other hand, the only thing I remember with
clearity, was how hard it was, removing one of the siezed rear shock mounts.
I ended up forcing the rear shock off of its own semi-permanently attached
rubber bushing with the inner steel coller still happily seized to the
mounting pin.  I can hardly wait to go at it again.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

> They only settle slightly, and don't lose any noticeable height.  There
> is a little extra instruction sheet 'afterthought' that comes with the
> Pro Kit (it doesn't look important and might easily be missed by an
> installer) that specifies slicing the rear fiber grommet-washer
> approximately in half.  It could make you 20mm (.8") lower (if it wasn't
> done).  Mine still sits pretty high even *with* halving the grommet...
> I don't know if it's the same deal with the "sport kit", which I'm not
> familiar with...
>
> Forrest



Shop online without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 11:45:47 -0600
From: kalla@tripoint.org
Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD transaxle driveshaft seal

> Unless you are REALLY strong, you can't merely just yank it, you'll need
> some kind of mechanical leverage to get it out.  A small crowbar might also
> work.

I used a small prybar to remove the seal.  I wanted to be absolutely
sure there wasn't anything on the inside lip of the tranny I could
rupture or damage by sticking a pry bar in there.

I used a circular piece of plastic put over the seal and drove it in
with a hammer. I just drove the car about 100 miles and everything
seems to be well.

Thanks for the suggestions. Thanks to Jeff Lucius too for his
awesome tech page. Was very helpful this weekend.

Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 15:23:51 -0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Shifter moving in fifth

Mike,

I had the exact same problem in my previous 93 base Stealth at about 105K
miles.  The car would jump out of 5th gear when stepping off the throttle
suddenly.  I did not repair it right away and just learned to drive the car
mre carefully (I would step off the throttle lightly and more predictably).
I drove the car for about 1/2 yr. like this, until all the gears started
working hard all of a sudden.  On the same day the reverse gear stopped
working on me (wouldn't go in reverse).

So now I was forced to take it to a mechanic.  All in all it cost a lot
($2000 initially, including changing a 50K clutch).  Then, one day, soon
after the fix, the car jumped out of 5th again.  This time, the mechanic
said it was the center shaft in the trannie.  He said it must have had a
hairline crack in it when he replaced all the other parts.  It cost me $400
to replace the shaft and the end cap of the trannie and the end nut by 5th
gear.  Now the car drove fine for a few days until the clutch cylinder from
inside the car gave out.  He switched that for $150.

Al in all, it was a troublesome deal.  It would probably have been less
expensive if I had repaired the car earlier.  Maybe someone off the list can
advise you on where to send your trannie for a rebuild, or you may just want
to take it to a mechanic.  I believe I paid too much for my work, so don't
do the same mistake as me.  The car drives great now and it has 120K miles.

Good luck,

- -MIKE-          aa2345@wayne.edu
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter

John, brother   iraicu@cs.wayne.edu
94 Pearl Yellow TT
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
Top speed after mods 169 mph

Mom
93 Red Dodge Stealth Base Stock
Top speed 140 mph (optimistic 1st gen speedometer speed)

Detroit Metro Area, Michigan

- -------------------------------------------

Hello all,  my shifter has began to move in fifth when I get on and off
the gas. I know about the problem with the nut on the fifth gear
assembly in DSM's and the two trannies look identical but has anybody on
the list had this problem with a stealth/3kgt and fixed it by
retightening the nut?


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 12:12:41 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing turbo set-up on ebay

Have you thought about why this setup has been on sale ?
I think it is a damn clean and nice setup even the exhaust manifolds are
stainless steel but the quality seems to be really god. But this made me
thinking and then I noticed the turbo-exhaust flanges and thought by myself
that here is something really missing ... the wastegate outlet !

Of course the gate is within the turbine housing but then the gases sent
through it are running against the plate causing a turbulence before the
exhaust pipe. This results in a higher backpressure to the turbine what
results in less efficiency.

In fact these are not exhaust flange housings like the stock parts are as
theses are "just" turbine housing plates where the exhaust pipe has been
attached. Unfortunately, in this design the O2 sensors become more a
restriction as in the stock parts too.

The design would be perfect if there would be an additional pipe running 2"
from the place where the wg sits and then bends into the exhaust pipe as
well as if the O2 sensor threads would be better placed. This could still
be done but then the setup becomes even more expensive.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:41:21 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Would you be interested in?

>
>Hey guys, if you could take a look at this product and let me know if you'd
>be interested in such an item.  I will be purchasing it soon and wanted to
>see if we could do some sort of "group buy" for the item.
>
All these acceleration gadgets are very pretty, but a little useless in my
opinion.

I have had an idea for a truly useful gadget for about 20 years, and never
got around to building it.
Here's the idea, in case we have some computer wizards out there:

1. Hook up a 1/1000th reading odometer sending unit to the front wheels
(less likely to spin). Any rally odo would work.
2. Hook up a start/finish line photocell/manual switch.
3. Hook up a START INTERVAL and a STOP INTERVAL pushbutton.
4. Hook up green, yellow and red indicator lights in front of the driver.
5. Connect everything to an onboard computer.

Go out for a recce (reconnaissance run) and click START INTERVAL at the
entrance to each turn and STOP INTERVAL at the exit of each turn. Use
landmarks, such as braking zone numbers, curbs, etc.
We are essentially mapping out the course, measuring every interval to the
1/1000th of a mile.

Now, when we start running laps, we click the start/finish line button (or
let the photocell do it) on our first hot lap. The computer logs in our
initial lap times and interval times. Every time we cross the start/finish
line, it resets the odometer to 0.000 and logs the lap time.

As we run succeeding laps, the computer checks each interval time, and
compares it to the previous times. If this time is slower, it flashes the
red light; if within a tenth of the previous time it flashes the yellow
light; if faster than before, it flashes the green light. If it's the
fastest interval of all, it flashes all three lights.

The advantage of this system is obvious: If you are working on a particular
turn, you can find out RIGHT NOW if you were faster or slower with a
particular cornering method. You can move the braking point forward or
back, change the  turn in, select the proper gear, etc. No more waiting 2+
minutes to get a lap time.

For example, I had a problem at Road America in deciding whether to change
down to 2nd or 3rd at Canada Corner; it seemed that 2nd was too low,
although I launched out of it great; 3rd was a bit too high, because
although it carried me to the track out point at a hellacious rate, it
bogged on the exit because I was off boost. If I had an interval timer, it
would've told me what the correct gear was.

Upon completion of the session, plug in a laptop computer to get a complete
readout of all the laps including (are you ready for this?) a theoretical
fastest lap based on putting together all the fastest interval times.

PHASE 2:  As long as we have the course mapped out with accurate mileages,
and we have a computer in the car, we can automate a few things. It would
be nice to squirt water on the brakes at the optimum time for cooling or
change the settings on the boost controller or raise or lower the rear
wing, all depending upon where one was on the track at the time. For
example, we don't need wing going down the front straight at Road America,
but we need it in the Carousel. It'd be nice to be able to just program
that in. If we had adjustable shocks, it would be nice to soften them up
for the strut-busting Carousel at Heartland Park and then immediately
stiffen them up for the next 80 mph sweeper. I'd also like to be able to
recycle brake fluid through a cooler, spray water on intercoolers, and do
all sorts of other stuff that can't be done manually.

The computer could also be used for data acquisition of brake temperatures,
intercooler temps, EGTs, acceleration, g-forces and anything else you want.

If any of you build this, I want one.

Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #377
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