team3s
Saturday, January 13
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
376
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 Jan 2001 21:42:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bleeding Brakes
The ABS motor needs to cycle..only way to
really know you got all the air
out.
Common to all ABS cars.
On
Fri, 12 Jan 2001, Trent wrote:
> All,
>
> Can anyone
offer why the service manual directs you to have the car running
> when
bleeding the brakes. As far as I can tell, I've had no problems
doing
> it without the car running. On the other hand, I would like
to get my
> brakes as tight as possible to compliment my new braided brake
lines.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> DaveT/92TT
>
>
> Shop online without a credit card
> http://www.rocketcash.com
>
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 22:35:48
-0600
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECS Indicator Light
This is very common, and you will find a ton
of info if you search the
archives.
Most likely what happens is the
wires/connectors on top of a strut (usually
one, maybe more) have become
loose / disconnected / broken, which causes
your ECS lights to start
flashing.
My bet is that if you turn the car on and start it, but don't
move it - the
lights will never flash. But if you drive it - the bumps
in the road are
prolly enough to temporarily break the connection, yet
restarting the car
resets the ECS computer and it works - until you hit some
bumps again.
- -Cody
#I have a 92 Stealth RT that has recently
developed a problem with the
#ECS sport/tour indicator light. You will be
driving along with it set
#in either sport or tour, then suddenly the
indicator begins to flash
#both sport and tour almost like a turn
signal. You can push the ECS
#button to try and make a selection but it
will not stop the flashing of
#the indicator light. The only way to get
it to stop is to turn the car
#off, and start it up again. But within a
few minutes the same thing
#happens again. Any ideas on what is going
on here?
#
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 09:46:51
-0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: ECS Indicator Light
Herm, what about if you press the ECS
button before moving and it starts
flashing? Also what is generally used to
read the engine codes besides going
to the dealership to have it done. (To
see which shock/strut is on the
blink) and where do you order a replacement
shock or strut ... from what
I've found on the web its a dealer only item?
(Unless you go with a
non-computer set)
Thanks!
Eric Cheek 92VR4
-time to rebuild the AERO wing (If its not raining)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of cody
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 10:36 PM
To: Chris
Brown
Cc: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECS Indicator Light
This
is very common, and you will find a ton of info if you search
the
archives.
Most likely what happens is the wires/connectors on top
of a strut (usually
one, maybe more) have become loose / disconnected /
broken, which causes
your ECS lights to start flashing.
My bet is that
if you turn the car on and start it, but don't move it - the
lights will
never flash. But if you drive it - the bumps in the road are
prolly
enough to temporarily break the connection, yet restarting the car
resets the
ECS computer and it works - until you hit some bumps again.
-
-Cody
#I have a 92 Stealth RT that has recently developed a problem
with the
#ECS sport/tour indicator light. You will be driving along with it
set
#in either sport or tour, then suddenly the indicator begins to
flash
#both sport and tour almost like a turn signal. You can push the
ECS
#button to try and make a selection but it will not stop the flashing
of
#the indicator light. The only way to get it to stop is to turn the
car
#off, and start it up again. But within a few minutes the same
thing
#happens again. Any ideas on what is going on
here?
#
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 14:53:04
-0600
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Team3S:
AWD transaxle driveshaft seal
I started leaking gear oil from the seal
around the passenger's side
transaxle oil seal. So I went and got a new seal
from the dealer and
figured I'd put it in myself. I removed the wheel and
dropped the
control arm for the suspension, and removed the drive shaft from
the
transaxle. I managed to get my hands in there (its tight) and pulled
on the seal but it doesn't want to come out. Is there a trick to
this? I
didn't see where the service manual described how to actually
get the seal
OUT of it.
also, the service manual shows a c-clip that's supposed to
hold the
shaft in the transaxle, when I pried it out, it slipped right out,
and I didn't see a c-clip. (a dealer installed the current tranny
about
10 months ago). Should the c-clip be on the driveshaft or does
it reside in
the seal? Maybe lack of a c-clip is what's causing the
leak?
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 16:03:35
-0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Question regarding ball bearing turbo set-up on ebay
Thanks
Jeff,
Wow, I really appreciate the quick answer. I was also
checking around and
learned that these turbos are the stock turbos that come
on the Subaru XVR,
or something like that, one of their really high
performance models. The
oil and water lines need to be tweaked a bit to
work on our cars and there
was a question brought up regarding
longevity.
These are a little more than I want for street driving, but
it's good to see
more suppliers are developing things like header pipe and
pipe to eliminate
the pre cat pipe for our cars.
Thanks
again,
Dave Best
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
"WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Sent: Friday, January
12, 2001 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question regarding ball bearing turbo
set-up on ebay
> Hi Dave,
>
> I updated my turbo
upgrade page to include this new information.
>
> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm
>
>
I corresponded with Don, the seller, about this turbo kit. See the
>
message below. I called JUN Motorsports and talked to Alex, who said
>
Todd could better answer my questions next week when he returns to
> the
office. Unfortunately that will be after the bidding closes. You
> can
visit the IHI site http://www.ihi-turbo.com/ to get details
on
> the RHF55 turbos included in this kit. They are roughly equivalent
to
> 17G or GT357 turbos. I had not heard of them used on our cars
before.
>
> I very much like the exhaust housings that replace the
precats but
> retain the O2 fittings. Maybe the buyer would let ATR,
Buschur, or
> someone else 'copy" them? I am not sure stainless is the
best
> material for exhaust manifolds. I thought perhaps they were
chromed
> iron (like our rear one) or steel (like our front one). I didn't
ask
> Don what the material was. Send him an email with your questions
and
> take a look at my turbo upgrade web page.
>
>
Later,
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Don" <dnperformance@yahoo.com>
>
To: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 3:16 AM
> Subject: Re: Ball Bearing Turbo
Kit for 3000GT Stealth TT
>
> Hi Jeff
> The BB turbo is used
but it's in very nice shape.
> JUN Machine shop made this setup and as you
can see from the pic yes
> the o2 sensor is still in the stock
position.
> The IC pipes are a little different from the stock. Stainless
steel
> oil line are recomened . FMIC is good for this setup.
>
please e-mail me if you have any moe question
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
> To:
<dnperformance@yahoo.com>
>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 2:52 AM
> Subject: Ball Bearing Turbo Kit
for 3000GT Stealth TT
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have
some questions about this item you have for sale on eBay.
> >
>
> Item #540265787: Ball Bearing Turbo Kit for 3000GT Stealth TT
>
>
> > 1. Are the items used at all?
> > 2. Who manufactured
this kit?
> > 3. Is it correct that the housings after the turbos
eliminate the
> > pre-cats?
> > 4. Is it correct that O2
sensors can still be attached to the
> > exhaust housings?
> >
5. Are any other mods required, such as
> > - water and oil
lines to/from turbos?
> > - engine mounts?
>
> - IC pipes
> > - AC or other lines on the
firewall?
> > - something else?
>
<snip>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "WALTER
D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 2:30 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Question
regarding ball bearing turbo set-up on ebay
>
> I am in the process
of up grading the performace on my car and I am
> not too far from
considering the turbo upgrade. I saw the following
> item on ebay
and wondered is this for real?
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=540265787&
>
r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=979425053&indexURL=0&rd=1
>
>
I have never heard of ball bearing turbos being available for our
> cars
and or the make of turbos that are being advertised, the IHI F55
> Ball
Bearing Turbo (Supports up to 400 hp each) ? Is this for real?
>
What are these, 20G's, 16G's?
>
> I do like their 3 into 1 Stainless
Steel Exhaust Manifold and
> Stainless Steel Front pipe that eliminate
both front and rear cat but
> I don't know about the
turbos.
>
> Anyone ever heard of this, or is this a pig in a poke,
too good to be
> true, or what?
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Dave Best
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 19:18:15
-0500
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Eibach Drop
All,
Just took my car off the jack stands
after installing the Eibach Sport kit.
The front has dropped nicely, around 1
1/2". The rear on the other hand,
dosn't appear to have dropped at
all. If anything, it might sit higher. Is
it common to expect the
rear springs to loose some of their height
with
time?
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
Shop online without a
credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a
NetZero subsidiary
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 17:40:10
-0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AWD transaxle driveshaft seal
At 01:53 PM 1/13/01 , Walton C.
Gibson wrote:
>Should the c-clip be on the driveshaft or
does
>it reside in the seal? Maybe lack of a c-clip is what's causing
the
>leak?
I think you may be onto something here. If the c-clip is
missing, the shaft
will move around and wear out your seal. Make sure the
clip is around the
grove in the end of the shaft, and the axle snaps in
tight when installing
into the trans.
Wayne
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 17:46:53
-0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Eibach Drop
Have you moved the car around to let the suspension
settle?
At 05:18 PM 1/13/01 , Trent
wrote:
>All,
>
>Just took my car off the jack stands after
installing the Eibach Sport kit.
>The front has dropped nicely, around 1
1/2". The rear on the other hand,
>dosn't appear to have dropped at
all. If anything, it might sit higher. Is
>it common to expect
the rear springs to loose some of their height
with
>time?
>
>Regards,
>DaveT/92TT
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 18:50:10
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Eibach Drop
> Just took my car off the jack stands after
installing the Eibach Sport
kit.
> The front has dropped nicely, around
1 1/2". The rear on the other
hand,
> dosn't appear to have
dropped at all. If anything, it might sit
higher. Is
> it
common to expect the rear springs to loose some of their height
with
>
time? --DaveT/92TT
>
They only settle slightly, and don't
lose any noticeable height. There
is a little extra instruction sheet
'afterthought' that comes with the
Pro Kit (it doesn't look important and
might easily be missed by an
installer) that specifies slicing the rear fiber
grommet-washer
approximately in half. It could make you 20mm (.8")
lower (if it wasn't
done). Mine still sits pretty high even *with*
halving the grommet...
I don't know if it's the same deal with the "sport
kit", which I'm not
familiar
with...
Forrest
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 00:57:49
-0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 5 speed driveline parts for sale
For sale:
From a 1992
3000VR4, unknown mileage (<60k )
Small spline transfer
case
Driveshaft
Rear end
Shifter cables.
Make offers on these
parts. I'm wanting to move them pretty quick.
I have the
transmission also, not sure if I'm ready to part with it.
I'm
considering modifying it for a dyno type tranny.
Brad
Check out
my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#376
*********************