team3s
Tuesday, January 9
2001 Volume 01
: Number
372
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Jan 2001 14:53:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!
Hi Mihai,
I hope you
mean the front exhaust manifold and not the front turbo
for the EGT
pyrometer. :) Perhaps you can drop the downpipe (very
easy) and install a
plate to partially block the exhaust pipe to
increase the pressure out the
hole you plan on drilling?
An A/F meter just monitors the 02 sensor
output voltages. It may or
may not condition the signal for display. The O2
sensor reports the
amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas stream in the form of
an
electrical voltage that varies from about 0 to about 1.0 volt.
Higher
voltage means less oxygen and a rich fuel mixture. The stock
O2
sensors is very sensitive to "mixture values" between 14.5 and
14.9
(with 14.7 being ideal for emissions). Beyond those values (less
than
14.7 is rich), it is far less sensitive.
Without a device such
as the AFC, ARC2, or VPC, the A/F meter serves
as a passive warning or
monitoring device. It can tell you if you are
going lean or not when you are
on boost and showing a 100% IDC. It
should not be realied on as the only
warning device though, as the
A/F can show rich yet knock can still be
present.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
To: "Stealth" <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>;
<
jbasol@Carlson.com>; "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Sent:
Saturday, December 08, 2001 3:33 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle
@ 100%!!!!
Jeff Lucius, Matt Jannusch, John Basol, Dave,
Everyone,
Thanks for all your replies guys.
So the first thing I
will try to do is finish the installation on the
EGT meter. Currently
the meter is on the A-pillar, with the wiring
pulled through the fire
wall. I just have to do the hard part now
and drill for the probe in
front of the FRONT TURBO. I may have to
pay a trusted mechanic for this
(and sugest they leave the car on,
and use a magnet, and supervise...so that
no metal shavings fall into
the turbo).
Next, I want to regap my plugs
down to .34 inch. I have not redone
my plugs yet. I have a spare
intake manifold gasket (if I'm using
the wrong term, I am reffering to the
gasket that can get broken when
trying to regapp the rear plugs). At
the same time I will also look
at the plugs with a magnifying
glass.
Last? Whatis a A/F meter? (Air/Fuel Meter, I'm
sure.) What is the
significance? What good would an A/F meter be
to me without a fuel
controller to adjust the curve up/down. And then a
good fuel
controller is expensive too. So, how much is an A/F
meter? Do I
just plug it in the MAF sensor (by the K&N
filter)?
Sorry about all the questions. I'll see what I can find
out about
the 100% IDC value. It seems odd to me also if that would be
really
100%. Is there a different tool we can use to measure IDC,
aside
from TMO. Like, if I go to the MITSU dealer and pay a $70 check
up
fee for them to check out my IDC under WOT. Woud a Mitsu scanner
be
more accurate.
Thanks a lot.
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
Detroit Metro Area,
Michigan
__________________________________________________
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:11:48
-0800
From: "Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000GT VR4 Spyder
Hello everyone,
I am not sure if any of you
will care, but I wanted to let you know that
there is a red 3000GT VR4
Spyder for sale in a dealership near me. Car is in
excellent condition and
the dealer is asking around $38k for it. If anyone
is interesting just let me
know and I will give you their phone number and
addy. BTW I am near
Philadelphia, PA.
Regards
Dusan
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
"Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Sent: Monday, January
08, 2001 2:53 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @
100%!!!!
> Hi Mihai,
>
> I hope you mean the front
exhaust manifold and not the front turbo
> for the EGT pyrometer. :)
Perhaps you can drop the downpipe (very
> easy) and install a plate to
partially block the exhaust pipe to
> increase the pressure out the hole
you plan on drilling?
>
> An A/F meter just monitors the 02 sensor
output voltages. It may or
> may not condition the signal for display. The
O2 sensor reports the
> amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas stream in the
form of an
> electrical voltage that varies from about 0 to about 1.0
volt. Higher
> voltage means less oxygen and a rich fuel mixture. The
stock O2
> sensors is very sensitive to "mixture values" between 14.5 and
14.9
> (with 14.7 being ideal for emissions). Beyond those values (less
than
> 14.7 is rich), it is far less sensitive.
>
> Without a
device such as the AFC, ARC2, or VPC, the A/F meter serves
> as a passive
warning or monitoring device. It can tell you if you are
> going lean or
not when you are on boost and showing a 100% IDC. It
> should not be
realied on as the only warning device though, as the
> A/F can show rich
yet knock can still be present.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
> To: "Stealth"
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Cc: <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>;
>
<
jbasol@Carlson.com>; "Jeff
Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
>
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 3:33 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Injector
Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!
>
>
> Jeff Lucius, Matt Jannusch, John
Basol, Dave, Everyone,
>
> Thanks for all your replies
guys.
>
> So the first thing I will try to do is finish the
installation on the
> EGT meter. Currently the meter is on the
A-pillar, with the wiring
> pulled through the fire wall. I just
have to do the hard part now
> and drill for the probe in front of the
FRONT TURBO. I may have to
> pay a trusted mechanic for this (and
sugest they leave the car on,
> and use a magnet, and supervise...so that
no metal shavings fall into
> the turbo).
>
> Next, I want to
regap my plugs down to .34 inch. I have not redone
> my plugs
yet. I have a spare intake manifold gasket (if I'm using
> the wrong
term, I am reffering to the gasket that can get broken when
> trying to
regapp the rear plugs). At the same time I will also look
> at the
plugs with a magnifying glass.
>
> Last? Whatis a A/F
meter? (Air/Fuel Meter, I'm sure.) What is the
>
significance? What good would an A/F meter be to me without a fuel
>
controller to adjust the curve up/down. And then a good fuel
>
controller is expensive too. So, how much is an A/F meter? Do
I
> just plug it in the MAF sensor (by the K&N
filter)?
>
> Sorry about all the questions. I'll see what I
can find out about
> the 100% IDC value. It seems odd to me also if
that would be really
> 100%. Is there a different tool we can use to
measure IDC, aside
> from TMO. Like, if I go to the MITSU dealer and
pay a $70 check up
> fee for them to check out my IDC under WOT.
Woud a Mitsu scanner be
> more accurate.
>
> Thanks a
lot.
>
>
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu> 95 Red VR4
>
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
> K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
>
> Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
>
http://photos.yahoo.com/>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 17:23:03
-0800
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Replacing the front wheel bearings on the VR4
Sorry, but I don't
believe it will be that easy, unless the VR4 is
significantly different than
the SL. On my SL, you have to remove the entire
hub (or "knuckle") assembly
and take it to a machine shop to have them press
out the old and press in a
new bearing.
Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 7:20 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Replacing the front wheel bearings on the VR4
So now I have
decided to replace the front wheel bearings on my '93 VR4
before retiring it
from the track. I have loosened the lug nuts, raised the
car, removed
the wheels, removed the cotter pins, reinstalled the wheels,
lowered the car,
chocked each front wheel, loosened the 32 mm (1 1/4") hub
nut, and stopped
until next weekend. Next, I'll raise the car, remove the
wheels,
remove the calipers, remove the rotors, and disconnect the ABS
sensor and
then ...
I expect to remove the hub nuts, pull of the end of the wheel
with the lugs
in it, and the front wheel bearings are just going to come off
easily into
my hands, right?
What problems should I expect to run
into? I bought a nice shiny new torque
wrench that will go up to 250
ft-lbs.
I decided not to replace the rear wheel bearings myself, because
since they
have inner and outer bearings, and it looks a lot more
complicated.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 05:52:24
-0800
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Heat Shield under hood
I have replaced the thin metal one and the larger
foil based one. The
heat generated and proximity of the engine parts to the
hood make this
more important on our cars. The clips will usually
disintegrate first so
you will need to get them with the shield since some
came apart as I was
taking them off. Simple procedure, but the shields are a
rip off from
the dealer. My larger shield was particulating everywhere as
well.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
>
Depends what color you like the paint on the hood above the turbos.
>
> It -could- show signs of oxidation and cracking from the more
intense
> direct radiated heat.
>
> I purchase perma-cool
blanketing, and use the OEM supports to redo mine
> when one of the turbo
cars needs it.
>
> On Sun, 7 Jan 2001, smii wrote:
>
>
> Hello everybody,
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone on the
list has removed the heat shield from
> > the under side of their
hood. Mine is starting to fall apart and I was
> > wondering if
there are any major concerns or any reasons why I should
> > leave it
on there.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
Boris
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 18:00:09
-0800
From: "ian sweeney" <
sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Low volume Stereo system
Hi All,
apologies first if you've
seen me post this issue already but i'm new and
havent been able to find any
replies. I've just bought a 92 VR4 and the
volume level changes on the
stereo intermittently like a loose connection.
When operating correctly all
6 speakers work and the sound is fine. when not
working only the rear
speakers seem to work and not at full volume. I pulled
out the system
(seperate radio and cd units) and fiddled with the
connections but the
volume remains low. The wires look fine. Is there a
seperate amp maybe
that could be faulty? BTW volume is still low whether
radio or cd (havent
tried tape). Also its not the mute button on all the
time! anyway it has me
confused...any help appreciated..
ian
92 red
vr4
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 8 Jan 2001 21:10:02
-0800
From:
kristie1@thesimpsons.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Experiencing a problem, need some help
I want to say thanks
to everybody for all of your help. I got a diagnostic today (Houston) for 39.99.
It was pretty cheap, well...it told me that it was my O2 sensor. Well, dont I
have several? My car is a 93 stealth sohc. It didnt particularly tell me which
one (if any more are applicable). But, wouldnt it be the one located on my
exhaust pipe that runs by the firewall>? Also, does anyone know how to remove
the stock radio? I havent tried to mess with it, just wanted to see if there was
a "trick". Thanks again....
Kristie
_______________________________________________
Get free
Internet access at
www.thesimpsons.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 11:28:03
-0800
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: FW: Team3S:
3000GT VR4 Spyder
I have never see that car. Here in Puerto Rico
are a lot of 3k's and
Stealth but not a Spider. Did someone can
provide a link to a www site so I
can look closer that magnificent piece of
metal?
Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto Rico
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of Dusan Simovic
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 6:12 PM
To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 3000GT VR4 Spyder
Hello everyone,
I am not sure if any of you
will care, but I wanted to let you know that
there is a red 3000GT VR4
Spyder for sale in a dealership near me. Car is in
excellent condition and
the dealer is asking around $38k for it. If anyone
is interesting just let me
know and I will give you their phone number and
addy. BTW I am near
Philadelphia, PA.
Regards
Dusan
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:29:07
-0800
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000GT VR4 Spyder
there's a few on 3kgt.com
- -Bart
Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart.kurek@eli.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
To: "Team3s" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, January 09, 2001 11:28 AM
Subject: FW: Team3S: 3000GT VR4
Spyder
> I have never see that car. Here in Puerto Rico
are a lot of 3k's and
> Stealth but not a Spider. Did someone
can provide a link to a www site so
I
> can look closer that
magnificent piece of metal?
>
> Nikos the Greek
> 92' RT
TT
> Puerto Rico
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of Dusan Simovic
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 6:12
PM
> To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: 3000GT VR4 Spyder
>
> Hello everyone,
> I am
not sure if any of you will care, but I wanted to let you know
that
> there is a red 3000GT VR4 Spyder for sale in a dealership near me.
Car is
in
> excellent condition and the dealer is asking around $38k
for it. If anyone
> is interesting just let me know and I will give you
their phone number and
> addy. BTW I am near Philadelphia, PA.
>
Regards
> Dusan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:51:07
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000GT VR4 Spyder
> I have never see that car. Here
in Puerto Rico are a lot
> of 3k's and Stealth but not a Spider. Did
someone can
> provide a link to a www site so I can look closer
that
> magnificent piece of metal?
There are pictures of mine at
http://www.mn3s.org under MN 3/S
Members,
about halfway down the page. You can click on the thumbnails
to view larger
ones. They aren't great pictures since the sun wasn't at
a good angle, but
you can get the general idea.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 09:29:50
-0800
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Low volume Stereo system
Ian,
The connectors on the back
of the radios in early 90's 3000's were flaky. You
can pull the female
contacts out one at a time from the molex casing (there is a
tiny metal tab
which must be pushed, this is visible through a small window in
the plastic)
and bend the part that applies pressure on the male contact (the
ones in the
radio). Also, use an x-acto knife to scrape away the oxidation
on
the
contacts. This should help.
I did this once to fix
speakers cut-out, and an antenna that went up and down
with every
bump in
the road. I also have a '92 VR4, so I suspect the problem is
similar.
John
ian sweeney wrote:
> Hi All,
>
apologies first if you've seen me post this issue already but i'm new
and
> havent been able to find any replies. I've just bought a 92 VR4 and
the
> volume level changes on the stereo intermittently like a loose
connection.
> When operating correctly all 6 speakers work and the sound
is fine. when not
> working only the rear speakers seem to work and not at
full volume. I pulled
> out the system (seperate radio and cd units) and
fiddled with the
> connections but the volume remains low. The wires look
fine. Is there a
> seperate amp maybe that could be faulty? BTW
volume is still low whether
> radio or cd (havent tried tape). Also its
not the mute button on all the
> time! anyway it has me confused...any
help appreciated..
>
> ian
> 92 red vr4
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 17:37:42
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Check Warning Light and Failed Active Aero
I never got to the
bottom of my Check Engine light problem (coming on
with hard acceleration)
but since my active aero blew up and I've pulled
the fuse it doesn't come on
anymore.
Is it possible it was related to this?? I would have been
hitting speeds
for the aero to activate when I was having the problem
although never
thought of it as I would think there was a different light for
problems
that weren't engine related.
Could this have been my
problem???
Either way. Does anyone have the part numbers for the front
section of
active aero as that's definitely where all the squeeling is coming
from
so I guess the motor is shagged or
something?
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 11:49:16
-0600
From: "Gabriel Estrada" <
typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Failed Active Aero
Along the same lines concerning the active
Aero. 94 VR-4 the rear wing is
stuck in the up position. Flip the
switch and the front will operate as
normal, but the rear one just sits
there. No noise, no nothing. Can't hear
the motor even try to
operate. Any suggestions on a fix?
Thanks in advance!
Gabriel
Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy Automotive Group
Chevrolet,
Oldsmobile, Nissan, Mitsubishi, and Hyundai
913-530-6730
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 11:58:24
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Failed Active Aero
Yes, that's the way it fails. This
is the infamous "bad limit switches on
the spoiler motor" failure mode.
You have to replace the motor and it's not
cheap (like $200). I recall
something in the past about somebody trying to
fix the motor, but I don't
remember anything positive about it. I replaced
mine last year.
Bite the bullet. You might find a working motor in a
wrecking yard, but
they are probably going to want to sell you the complete
spoiler
assembly.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Gabriel Estrada [
SMTP:typhoonzz@earthlink.net]
>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 11:49 AM
> To: 3000gt
> Subject:
Team3S: Failed Active Aero
>
> Along the same lines concerning the
active Aero. 94 VR-4 the rear wing is
> stuck in the up
position. Flip the switch and the front will operate as
> normal,
but the rear one just sits there. No noise, no nothing.
Can't
> hear
> the motor even try to operate. Any suggestions
on a fix?
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Gabriel Estrada
>
Internet Sales Director
> McCarthy Automotive Group
> Chevrolet,
Oldsmobile, Nissan, Mitsubishi, and Hyundai
> 913-530-6730
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 18:24:33
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Failed Active Aero
Excellent. The bullet I will bite
then.
Do you ahve a part number by any chance??
My car is a Japanese
import and Mitsubishi in Ireland won't give me any help
because of that
(great that).
Thanks
Gordon
"Willis, Charles E."
wrote:
> Yes, that's the way it fails. This is the infamous "bad
limit switches on
> the spoiler motor" failure mode. You have to
replace the motor and it's not
> cheap (like $200). I recall
something in the past about somebody trying to
> fix the motor, but I
don't remember anything positive about it. I replaced
> mine last
year. Bite the bullet. You might find a working motor in a
>
wrecking yard, but they are probably going to want to sell you the
complete
> spoiler assembly.
>
> Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:32:48
-0600
From: "Gabriel Estrada" <
typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Failed Active Aero
Thanks for the info. Guess I'll have
to go to the parts dept and get the
motor. If you have the PN that
would help so I don't have to wait for them
to look up the #. Does
anyone have a website up for the replacement
instructions???
Thanks
again.
Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy Automotive
Group
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Nissan, Mitsubishi, and
Hyundai
913-530-6730
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Gordon Tyrrell
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 12:25 PM
To:
Willis, Charles E.; 3000gt
Subject: Re: Team3S: Failed Active
Aero
Excellent. The bullet I will bite then.
Do you ahve a part
number by any chance??
My car is a Japanese import and Mitsubishi in
Ireland won't give me any help
because of that (great
that).
Thanks
Gordon
"Willis, Charles E." wrote:
>
Yes, that's the way it fails. This is the infamous "bad limit switches
on
> the spoiler motor" failure mode. You have to replace the motor
and it's
not
> cheap (like $200). I recall something in the past
about somebody trying
to
> fix the motor, but I don't remember anything
positive about it. I
replaced
> mine last year. Bite the
bullet. You might find a working motor in a
> wrecking yard, but
they are probably going to want to sell you the
complete
> spoiler
assembly.
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 11:47:29
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Failed Active Aero
Usually when the rear wing sticks in the up
position, all you need to do is
take the wing off the car and disassemble
the motor and linkage, clean all
the old grease out and re-grease the area
where the motor gear mates up to
the linkage teeth. Also, put some graphite
lube on the sliders at the ends.
Once this is done, the wing should move
freely again. No new parts are
req'd most of the
time.
Wayne
At 10:49 AM 1/9/01 , Gabriel Estrada
wrote:
>Along the same lines concerning the active Aero. 94 VR-4 the
rear wing is
>stuck in the up position. Flip the switch and the
front will operate as
>normal, but the rear one just sits there. No
noise, no nothing. Can't hear
>the motor even try to operate.
Any suggestions on a fix?
>Thanks in advance!
>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:47:27
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Failed Active Aero
I remember reading an FAQ/DIY guide on
cleaning the Active Aero motor on one
of the 3kgt pages, but I don't remember
exactly where. Anyone know?
BTW, my Active Areo is twitchy at
best...the wing raises about 25% of the
time. Sometimes the little
green light by the switch comes on but the wing
doesn't move (although I can
hear the motor work for a second), and other
times nothing happens at
all. I'm guessing that cleaning out the motor may
help....anyone had
this happen to them?
- - Brian
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Wayne [
mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 10:47 AM
> To: 3000gt
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Failed Active Aero
>
>
> Usually when the rear wing
sticks in the up position, all you
> need to do is
> take the wing
off the car and disassemble the motor and
> linkage, clean all
>
the old grease out and re-grease the area where the motor
> gear mates up
to
> the linkage teeth. Also, put some graphite lube on the
>
sliders at the ends.
> Once this is done, the wing should move freely
again. No new
> parts are
> req'd most of the time.
>
> Wayne
>
>
> At 10:49 AM 1/9/01 , Gabriel Estrada
wrote:
> >Along the same lines concerning the active Aero. 94
VR-4
> the rear wing is
> >stuck in the up position. Flip
the switch and the front
> will operate as
> >normal, but the
rear one just sits there. No noise, no
> nothing. Can't
hear
> >the motor even try to operate. Any suggestions on a
fix?
> >Thanks in advance!
> >
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 13:15:43
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Failed Active Aero
Hope that does the trick, but it didn't
for mine.
Someone is welcome to try using my old spoiler
motor!
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wayne
[
SMTP:whietala@prodigy.net]
>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 12:47 PM
> To: 3000gt
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Failed Active Aero
>
> Usually when the rear wing sticks in
the up position, all you need to do
> is
> take the wing off the
car and disassemble the motor and linkage, clean all
>
> the old
grease out and re-grease the area where the motor gear mates up to
>
> the linkage teeth. Also, put some graphite lube on the sliders at
the
> ends.
> Once this is done, the wing should move freely again.
No new parts are
> req'd most of the time.
>
> Wayne
>
>
> At 10:49 AM 1/9/01 , Gabriel Estrada wrote:
> >Along
the same lines concerning the active Aero. 94 VR-4 the rear wing
>
is
> >stuck in the up position. Flip the switch and the front
will operate as
> >normal, but the rear one just sits there. No
noise, no nothing. Can't
> hear
> >the motor even try to
operate. Any suggestions on a fix?
> >Thanks in advance!
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 11:39:29
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Failed Active Aero
> Along the same lines concerning the
active Aero. 94 VR-4 the rear wing is
> stuck in the up
position. Flip the switch and the front will operate as
> normal,
but the rear one just sits there. No noise, no nothing. Can't
hear
> the motor even try to operate. Any suggestions on a
fix?
You can try a simple disassemble, clean & lube,
reassemble. While apart, you
can check to see if the motor is
dead. See
http://www.3si.org, Tech
Tips,
Active Aero Repair, and John Adam's repair page
http://user.icx.net/~adams/f_01.htm#Repair
for more info.
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San
Diego, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 15:27:09
-0600
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Failed Active Aero
Now I understand why an individual emailed
me, not long ago, confusing me
with a seperate john: his last name is also
adams. If it helps any, my
middle name
is quincy - hopefully his
isn't!
later,
john 93 stealth es
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>
>You
can try a simple disassemble, clean & lube, reassemble. While
apart,
you
>can check to see if the motor is dead. See
http://www.3si.org, Tech Tips,
>Active Aero
Repair, and John Adam's repair page
>
http://user.icx.net/~adams/f_01.htm#Repair
for more info.
>
>--
>If you lived in your car, you'd be home
by now.
>
>Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
>General Atomics -
Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 13:22:24
-0800
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Failed Active Aero
Like the president? Coincidence?
-
-Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart.kurek@eli.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
"3000gt" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, January 09, 2001 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Failed Active
Aero
> Now I understand why an individual emailed me, not long
ago, confusing me
> with a seperate john: his last name is also adams. If
it helps any, my
> middle name
> is quincy - hopefully his
isn't!
>
> later,
> john 93 stealth es
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>
>
>
> >You can try a simple disassemble, clean & lube,
reassemble. While apart,
> you
> >can check to see if the
motor is dead. See
http://www.3si.org,
Tech
Tips,
> >Active Aero Repair, and John Adam's repair
page
> >
http://user.icx.net/~adams/f_01.htm#Repair
for more info.
> >
> >--
> >If you lived in your car,
you'd be home by now.
> >
> >Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> >General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
>
>
> >*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 15:20:08
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Technical Information Manual
Jim Berry sez:>
>That
would also explain the problems Merrit had when he broke a rotor, the
>ABS
system released 65% or more of his stopping power when the broken
>rotor
stopped turning ---- the remaining front would overheat and lose
it's
>effectiveness in a second or two.
I'm not really sure what
happened when the right front went "clang" and
broke a rotor, but it sure
didn't stop for several hundred yards. It did
feel like I lost at least 65%
of the stopping power, though. It happened at
120+ and it eventually stopped,
but it took a long, long time. I broke two
right front rotors, both at
Heartland Park. Thanks to having finished my
braking when the first rotor
clanged and a very long runoff area when the
second rotor went, I got through
both incidents.
>
>P.S. I started reading your doctorial
thesis on the vcu ---- I haven't
gotten
>through the equations yet, at
my age I get a headache when I think too long.
>I find it hard to believe
I used to whip through that stuff ---- once in a
while I'll
>look
through one of my old engineering texts and marvel at how smart I was.
Hear, hear.
I'll drink to that.
I can't believe I actually got
through thermodynamics, dynamics and
strength of materials 35 years ago.
Rich/old poop/I wuz smart oncet. I cud evun spel
enginere.>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 15:42:44
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Returning posts
I just got back from a long weekend in NYC, and
am catching up on my e-mail
slowly but surely. If you sent me a personal post
recently, I will answer
it within the next day or so.
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 19:29:38
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Failed Active Aero
Also, it stands to mention that resetting the
computers by disconnecting the
neg. battery and reconnecting after a little
while has worked for me. My
rear spoiler would do that when I first
bought the car and Mitsu told me the
front and back need to be in phase or
either one will stop working and
suggested I fix it myself to save
money. I took apart the rear one and
reset it down, manually turned the
front one all the way up with the knob
underneath and then tried it ---it did
not work. Then, I disc. the battery
and reconnected and it has worked
ever since.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
To: 3000gt
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, January 09, 2001 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Failed Active
Aero
>Usually when the rear wing sticks in the up position, all
you need to do is
>take the wing off the car and disassemble the motor and
linkage, clean all
>the old grease out and re-grease the area where the
motor gear mates up to
>the linkage teeth. Also, put some graphite lube on
the sliders at the ends.
>Once this is done, the wing should move freely
again. No new parts are
>req'd most of the
time.
>
>Wayne
>
>
>At 10:49 AM 1/9/01 , Gabriel
Estrada wrote:
>>Along the same lines concerning the active Aero.
94 VR-4 the rear wing is
>>stuck in the up position. Flip the
switch and the front will operate as
>>normal, but the rear one just
sits there. No noise, no nothing. Can't
hear
>>the motor
even try to operate. Any suggestions on a fix?
>>Thanks in
advance!
>>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#372
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