team3s
Monday, January 8
2001
Volume 01 : Number
371
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 07 Jan 2001 16:44:47 -0500
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Heat Shield under hood
Hello everybody,
I was wondering if anyone
on the list has removed the heat shield from
the under side of their
hood. Mine is starting to fall apart and I was
wondering if there are
any major concerns or any reasons why I should
leave it on
there.
Thanks,
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 13:56:49
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Heat Shield under hood
Depends what color you like the paint
on the hood above the turbos.
It -could- show signs of oxidation and
cracking from the more intense
direct radiated heat.
I purchase
perma-cool blanketing, and use the OEM supports to redo mine
when one of the
turbo cars needs it.
On Sun, 7 Jan 2001, smii wrote:
> Hello
everybody,
>
> I was wondering if anyone on the list has removed
the heat shield from
> the under side of their hood. Mine is
starting to fall apart and I was
> wondering if there are any major
concerns or any reasons why I should
> leave it on there.
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Boris
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 16:52:36
-0500
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Custom Carbon Fiber Hood
Hello everyone,
As you may remember, a
long time ago, I set out to see if I could get
high risen carbon fiber hoods
for the list for those of us who wanted to
be able to install strut tower
bars and allow better ventilation under
the hood.
I found vendor that
makes real good carbon fiber hoods and is willing to
absorb the cost of the
mold providing that he can sell a minimum of ten
hoods. The only
dilemna is how many of you out there are interested and
if so, what kind of
style could we all agree upon.
Right now, I'm thinking along the lines of
a hood similar to the Kaze
hood but only with a viper style scoop in the
center. That's just an
idea. If anyone has something else in
mind, let me know. The cost of
these hoods will run approximately
$1,250 each. These hoods can be made
to fit windshield wiper fluid
nozzles and to use the stock braces but
will require hood pins.
We can
get them in high gloss carbon fiber, as well.
If you are interested,
please send me an e-mail at
smii@mediaone.net.
Hopefully we can
get 10 intersted people.
Thank you,
Boris
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 16:55:07
-0500
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Parts for sale
If anyone is interested in any of the following parts,
please e-mail me
privately, at
smii@mediaone.net :
- - 4 stock
brake rotors in good condition (set: $50.00 +
shipping)
- - 6 stock fuel injectors ($55
+shipping)
Thanks,
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 16:24:52
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Heat Shield under hood
Heck guys..im sorry.
http://store.summitracing.com/search.asp
and search for Vendor
"Thermo-Tec"
My fault..Id just got some
perma-cool stuff in the mail, and got mixed up.
On Sun, 7 Jan 2001,
Schilberg, Darren wrote:
> Perma-cool blanketing? Where and how
much is it?
>
> I can't wax my car in the summer for two hours
after driving it since the
> hood stays so warm. I would so much
like to better insulate the underside
> of my hood.
>
>
--Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [
mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 16:57
> To: smii
> Cc:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Heat Shield under hood
>
> Depends what color
you like the paint on the hood above the turbos.
>
> It -could-
show signs of oxidation and cracking from the more intense
> direct
radiated heat.
>
> I purchase perma-cool blanketing, and use the
OEM supports to redo mine
> when one of the turbo cars needs it.
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:57:12
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!
My Apex AVCr reads the same 100%
injector duty at 1.05kg/cm2 at about
5000rpm and drops as boost starts to
drop. It only started reading that
high since it got really cold
out. Occasionally, leaving a stoplight hard
results in a huge backfire
and fuel cut which never happened before either.
Looks like new injectors and
a fuel computer are needed or boost should be
turned down a bit foe winter
use.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
Stealth <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, January 05, 2001 7:20 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @
100%!!!!
>> Test that you see was done in 2nd gear, for setting
A
>> (1 bar) @ WOT:
>
>> IDC RPM Boost
>> 80%
3900 .92
>> 85% 4200 .84
>> 90% 4400 .80
>> 95% 4800
.77
>> 100%5000 .77
>
>> I also did a test in 2nd gear
with the APEXI in the OFF position @ WOT:
>
>> IDC RPM
Boost
>> 80% 5100 .44
>> 85% 5300 .44
>> 90% 5675
.44
>> 91.5% 6200 .47
>
>Looks pretty normal to me,
assuming you still have stock fuel injectors...
>Cold air temperatures
result in denser air. The more air molecules going
>through the MAF
sensor means the ECU cranks up the fuel delivery to
>compensate for
that. You might want to consider reducing boost at cold
>temps so as
to not push the injectors too hard, or shift earlier. An
>injector
failure not caught right away can cause piston damage. If you
are
>only hitting 100% occasionally you might be able to get away with
it.
>
>Does you AVC-R measure 100% duty cycle to mean injector open
100% full
>pulsewidth (ie: essentially switched on all the time), or 100%
on display =
>85% pulsewidth (maximum "safe" injector firing time)?
If it means 85% real
>pulsewidth, then 100% on the display isn't quite as
bad as it sounds.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 19:43:11
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Heat Shield under hood
Boris,
Do not remove the heat
shield...you will destroy the paint on you hood from
the heat of the turbos
generate.
Just replace the insulation with a new factory one. I
purchased one from
Tall. Mitsu for ~$35. Polish up the metal heat
shield and you're in
business!!
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
>Reply-To:
smii@mediaone.net>To: "
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: Heat Shield under hood
>Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 16:44:47
-0500
>
>Hello everybody,
>
>I was wondering if anyone
on the list has removed the heat shield from
>the under side of their
hood. Mine is starting to fall apart and I was
>wondering if there
are any major concerns or any reasons why I should
>leave it on
there.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Boris
>
>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:51:46
EST
From:
StevePKT77@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Experiencing a problem, need some help
Kristie,
If your check engine
light is on then you can do your own diagnostic on it...
There is a way to
read codes from the ECU on this car. I don't know how,
though, since
my check engine light has not come on ever since I've owned it
(too bad,
cause mine seems to run a bit rich as well!) Surely people on here
can
tell you the process of reading ECU codes, anybody? Let us know how you
make out.
- -Steve
In a message dated 01/07/2001 3:11:21 AM
Eastern Standard Time,
kristie1@thesimpsons.com
writes:
<< Sorry, I for got to mention also that my CHECK ENGINE
light is on....
Kristie
93 stealth base(sorry) sohc. I've
done some nice mods though.
>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 09:08:48
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Experiencing a problem, need some help
You can read the
trouble codes with a voltmeter attached to the correct pins
on the diagnostic
connector under the dash in the driver's compartment. The
pins are
shown in the service manual. The code is a repeating series of
long and
short voltage pulses and pauses. Then you have to decode the
message using
the service manual. I've done this to figure out which ECS
strut was
installed wrong.
Sorry, the book's at home - I'm gonna have to strat
dragging it in here with
me!
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
StevePKT77@aol.com [
SMTP:StevePKT77@aol.com]
> Sent:
Monday, January 08, 2001 7:52 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Experiencing a problem, need some help
>
>
Kristie,
> If your check engine light is on then you can do your own
diagnostic on
> it...
> There is a way to read codes from the ECU
on this car. I don't know how,
> though, since my check engine
light has not come on ever since I've owned
> it
> (too bad, cause
mine seems to run a bit rich as well!) Surely people on
> here
> can tell you the process of reading ECU codes, anybody? Let us
know how
> you
> make out.
> -Steve
>
> In a
message dated 01/07/2001 3:11:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>
kristie1@thesimpsons.com
writes:
>
> << Sorry, I for got to mention also that my CHECK
ENGINE light is on....
> Kristie
> 93 stealth
base(sorry) sohc. I've done some nice mods though.
>
>>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 01 08:18:33
EST
From:
gangus@vnet.ibm.comSubject: Team3S:
idling problems after battery drained
Folks,
My battery completely
discharged last week. Since then, once my car warms
warms up, it wants
to stall whenever I come to a stop. I thought this
symptoms of a faulty
idle speed controller servo (or stepper motor). one bad, but I
ran through
however, I removed the idle speed controller, ran the
diagnostics
as outlined on page 14-63 in my service manual, applied the
voltages to ed the voltage to the
the ISC, and it works. So where do I
go next ? To my Dodge dealer for
diagnosis ? Do I even tell
him I suspect (or do not supect) anymore
about the ISC ? Or do I just
let HIM tell me what's wrong ?
One other thing. On page 14-62, it
says to check the operation sound of the
the Idle speed controller
(ISC). I cannot hear it when the key is
turned on and the car is not
started. It says "If the operation sound
is not heard, check the
stepper motor actuation circuit. (If the
circuit is normal, the probable
cause is a malfunction of the stepper
motor or engine control unit).
Based on the diagnostics I ran, I feel
the ISC is NOT faulty.
Does
this mean my ECU is bad ? Car runs fine otherwise...I know after
a
while (2-3 weeks) this problem will go away, but it's really a pain
to drive
this way (in traffic), especially in inclement weather.
This has happended
before, I'm just getting really annoyed this time.
Any suggestions
? Thanks.
It's a 92 Stealth ES - DOHC
non-turbo.
Thanks,
Alan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:14:28
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
idling problems after battery drained
You probably already have the
answer if you have already observed that it
will go away over time based on
past experience. There is likely nothing
wrong with the car, although
granted a few weeks is somewhat excessive.
If the car idled poorly at
first, then you immediately started messing with
it, I am willing to bet that
there isn't really a problem. Resetting the
ECU, as would happen from a
completely drained battery, causes it to lose
all information that makes it
run properly. The ECU will learn this over
time. How long it
takes varies but it can be a while (20-30 mins or more,
tends to improve over
time beyond that) before the car feels right
again.
Barry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 09:20:16
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Replacing the front wheel bearings on the VR4
So now I have
decided to replace the front wheel bearings on my '93 VR4
before retiring it
from the track. I have loosened the lug nuts, raised the
car, removed
the wheels, removed the cotter pins, reinstalled the wheels,
lowered the car,
chocked each front wheel, loosened the 32 mm (1 1/4") hub
nut, and stopped
until next weekend. Next, I'll raise the car, remove the
wheels,
remove the calipers, remove the rotors, and disconnect the ABS
sensor and
then ...
I expect to remove the hub nuts, pull of the end of the wheel
with the lugs
in it, and the front wheel bearings are just going to come off
easily into
my hands, right?
What problems should I expect to run
into? I bought a nice shiny new torque
wrench that will go up to 250
ft-lbs.
I decided not to replace the rear wheel bearings myself, because
since they
have inner and outer bearings, and it looks a lot more
complicated.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 09:25:57
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Intercooler removal
So because I have some other work to do that
involves removing the front
bumper, I am going to go ahead and remove the
intercoolers on my '94 VR4 and
take them to a radiator shop for
renovation. Looking at the service manual,
the right one should be a
piece of cake, but the left one seems like a
hassle. Do I really have
to remove all those intercooler hoses and pipes?
Do I really have to remove
the oil cooler to take out the left intercooler,
or can I get at it without
disconnecting the oil cooler? That seems messy.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 08:35:10
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Replacing the front wheel bearings on the VR4
At 08:20 AM 1/8/01
, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>I expect to remove the hub nuts, pull of the
end of the wheel with the lugs
>in it, and the front wheel bearings are
just going to come off easily into
>my hands,
right?
>
>Chuck
Thats right, but it would be better to
remove the wheel first, then pull
the hub assy out. That way you can hold
onto the CV shaft while removing
the hub so it doesn't fall/move around and
hit the ABS sensor (which
doesn't need to come all the way out) and other
components.
Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 10:37:41
EST
From:
StevePKT77@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
idling problems after battery drained
The same thing happened to me on my
'92 Stealth R/T when I took it in to get
detailed. I thought they must
have washed something they shouldn't have,
since the detail included an
engine scrubbing. In actuality, it was because
they removed the
battery cable during the detail process.
The problem is, is the ECU
resets when this happens, and it has to
automatically adjust itself all over
again - mine fixed itself after I let it
run at idle for about 15 mins...
driving it around didn't seem to help any
(it would stall whenever I
stopped, unless I held down the gas pedal), maybe
the ECU needs it to stay
at idle so it can adjust... I guess an analogy
would be how on home
computers some software tells you not to run any other
programs or touch the
keyboard/mouse, etc., while auto-detecting things,
since this can alter its
detection. So try to just let it run at idle for 15
mins or so (if it
won't stay on while idling, try pressing the gas to keep it
at a steady rpm
level--but as I recall, mine would stay on at idle, just not
when driving
then stopping). Let us know how you make out.
- -Steve
In a
message dated 01/08/2001 10:13:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gangus@vnet.ibm.com
writes:
<< My battery completely discharged last week. Since
then, once my car warms
warms up, it wants to stall whenever I come to
a stop. I thought this
symptoms of a faulty idle speed controller
servo (or stepper motor). one
bad, but I ran
through
however, I removed the idle speed controller, ran the
diagnostics
as outlined on page 14-63 in my service manual, applied the
voltages to ed
the voltage to the
the ISC, and it works. So
where do I go next ? To my Dodge dealer for
diagnosis
? Do I even tell him I suspect (or do not supect)
anymore
about the ISC ? Or do I just let HIM tell me what's wrong
? >>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 8 Jan 2001 09:38:15
MST
From: Mark Creekmore <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re:
[Team3S: Intercooler removal]
I was able to remove the drivers side
intercooler by just unbolting the oil
cooler from the mounting hole. I didn't
have to disconnect the oil lines. You
won't have to remove all of the
intercooler hoses, just the ones that clamp to
the intercoolers.
Mark
Creekmore
92' Stealth R/T TT
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
So because I have some other work to do that involves removing the
front
bumper, I am going to go ahead and remove the intercoolers on my '94
VR4 and
take them to a radiator shop for renovation. Looking at the
service manual,
the right one should be a piece of cake, but the left one
seems like a
hassle. Do I really have to remove all those intercooler
hoses and pipes?
Do I really have to remove the oil cooler to take out the
left intercooler,
or can I get at it without disconnecting the oil
cooler? That seems messy.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:43:08
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Intercooler removal
Not sure about what it takes for removal but I
question the need for it, and the
radiator shop idea. What's wrong with them
that warrants R&R ???? IMHO
there is little a radiator shop can
do, the intercoolers are welded aluminum
so if you need to patch a hole take
it to a good welder.
` Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
So because I have some other work to do that involves removing the front
>
bumper, I am going to go ahead and remove the intercoolers on my '94 VR4
and
> take them to a radiator shop for renovation
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:20:34
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Intercooler removal
A radiator shop will flush/clean them and
unbend all the fins and repaint
them black if I choose. It's not a
matter of patching holes: it's a
maintenance issue.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jim Berry [
SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent:
Monday, January 08, 2001 10:43 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Intercooler removal
>
> Not sure about what it
takes for removal but I question the need for it,
> and the
>
radiator shop idea. What's wrong with them that warrants R&R ???? IMHO
> there is little a radiator shop can do, the intercoolers are
welded
> aluminum
> so if you need to patch a hole take it to a good
welder.
>
> ` Jim
Berry
> ===============================================
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > So because I have some other work to do that involves removing the
front
> > bumper, I am going to go ahead and remove the intercoolers on
my '94 VR4
> and
> > take them to a radiator shop for
renovation
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 17:33:09
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!
Jeff Lucius, Matt Jannusch, John Basol,
Dave, Everyone,
Thanks for all your replies guys.
So the first
thing I will try to do is finish the installation on the EGT
meter.
Currently the meter is on the A-pillar, with the wiring pulled
through the
fire wall. I just have to do the hard part now and drill for
the probe
in front of the FRONT TURBO. I may have to pay a trusted mechanic
for
this (and sugest they leave the car on, and use a magnet, and
supervise...so
that no metal shavings fall into the turbo).
Next, I want to regap my
plugs down to .34 inch. I have not redone my plugs
yet. I have a
spare intake manifold gasket (if I'm using the wrong term, I
am reffering to
the gasket that can get broken when trying to regapp the
rear plugs).
At the same time I will also look at the plugs with a
magnifying
glass.
Last? Whatis a A/F meter? (Air/Fuel Meter, I'm
sure.) What is the
significance? What good would an A/F meter be
to me without a fuel
controller to adjust the curve up/down. And then a
good fuel controller is
expensive too. So, how much is an A/F
meter? Do I just plug it in the MAF
sensor (by the K&N
filter)?
Sorry about all the questions. I'll see what I can find
out about the 100%
IDC value. It seems odd to me also if that would be
really 100%. Is there
a different tool we can use to measure IDC, aside
from TMO. Like, if I go
to the MITSU dealer and pay a $70 check up fee
for them to check out my IDC
under WOT. Woud a Mitsu scanner be more
accurate.
Thanks a lot.
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#371
*********************