team3s             Monday, January 8 2001             Volume 01 : Number 371




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 16:44:47 -0500
From: smii <smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Heat Shield under hood

Hello everybody,

I was wondering if anyone on the list has removed the heat shield from
the under side of their hood.  Mine is starting to fall apart and I was
wondering if there are any major concerns or any reasons why I should
leave it on there.

Thanks,

Boris



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 13:56:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Heat Shield under hood

Depends what color you like the paint on the hood above the turbos.

It -could- show signs of oxidation and cracking from the more intense
direct radiated heat.

I purchase perma-cool blanketing, and use the OEM supports to redo mine
when one of the turbo cars needs it.

On Sun, 7 Jan 2001, smii wrote:

> Hello everybody,
>
> I was wondering if anyone on the list has removed the heat shield from
> the under side of their hood.  Mine is starting to fall apart and I was
> wondering if there are any major concerns or any reasons why I should
> leave it on there.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Boris
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 16:52:36 -0500
From: smii <smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Custom Carbon Fiber Hood

Hello everyone,

As you may remember, a long time ago, I set out to see if I could get
high risen carbon fiber hoods for the list for those of us who wanted to
be able to install strut tower bars and allow better ventilation under
the hood.

I found vendor that makes real good carbon fiber hoods and is willing to
absorb the cost of the mold providing that he can sell a minimum of ten
hoods.  The only dilemna is how many of you out there are interested and
if so, what kind of style could we all agree upon.

Right now, I'm thinking along the lines of a hood similar to the Kaze
hood but only with a viper style scoop in the center.  That's just an
idea.  If anyone has something else in mind, let me know.  The cost of
these hoods will run approximately $1,250 each.  These hoods can be made
to fit windshield wiper fluid nozzles and to use the stock braces but
will require hood pins.

We can get them in high gloss carbon fiber, as well.

If you are interested, please send me an e-mail at smii@mediaone.net.

Hopefully we can get 10 intersted people.

Thank you,

Boris


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 16:55:07 -0500
From: smii <smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Parts for sale

If anyone is interested in any of the following parts, please e-mail me
privately, at smii@mediaone.net :

- -  4 stock brake rotors in good condition    (set:  $50.00 + shipping)
- -  6 stock fuel injectors  ($55 +shipping)

Thanks,

Boris



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 16:24:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Heat Shield under hood

Heck guys..im sorry.

http://store.summitracing.com/search.asp and search for Vendor
"Thermo-Tec"

My fault..Id just got some perma-cool stuff in the mail, and got mixed up.

On Sun, 7 Jan 2001, Schilberg, Darren wrote:

> Perma-cool blanketing?  Where and how much is it?
>
> I can't wax my car in the summer for two hours after driving it since the
> hood stays so warm.  I would so much like to better insulate the underside
> of my hood.
>
> --Flash!
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 16:57
> To: smii
> Cc: Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Heat Shield under hood
>
> Depends what color you like the paint on the hood above the turbos.
>
> It -could- show signs of oxidation and cracking from the more intense
> direct radiated heat.
>
> I purchase perma-cool blanketing, and use the OEM supports to redo mine
> when one of the turbo cars needs it.
>
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:57:12 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!

My Apex AVCr reads the same 100% injector duty at 1.05kg/cm2 at about
5000rpm and drops as boost starts to drop.  It only started reading that
high since it got really cold out.  Occasionally, leaving a stoplight hard
results in a huge backfire and fuel cut which never happened before either.
Looks like new injectors and a fuel computer are needed or boost should be
turned down a bit foe winter use.

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: Stealth <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, January 05, 2001 7:20 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!


>> Test that you see was done in 2nd gear, for setting A
>> (1 bar) @ WOT:
>
>> IDC RPM Boost
>> 80% 3900 .92
>> 85% 4200 .84
>> 90% 4400 .80
>> 95% 4800 .77
>> 100%5000 .77
>
>> I also did a test in 2nd gear with the APEXI in the OFF position @ WOT:
>
>> IDC RPM Boost
>> 80% 5100 .44
>> 85% 5300 .44
>> 90% 5675 .44
>> 91.5% 6200 .47
>
>Looks pretty normal to me, assuming you still have stock fuel injectors...
>Cold air temperatures result in denser air.  The more air molecules going
>through the MAF sensor means the ECU cranks up the fuel delivery to
>compensate for that.  You might want to consider reducing boost at cold
>temps so as to not push the injectors too hard, or shift earlier.  An
>injector failure not caught right away can cause piston damage.  If you are
>only hitting 100% occasionally you might be able to get away with it.
>
>Does you AVC-R measure 100% duty cycle to mean injector open 100% full
>pulsewidth (ie: essentially switched on all the time), or 100% on display =
>85% pulsewidth (maximum "safe" injector firing time)?  If it means 85% real
>pulsewidth, then 100% on the display isn't quite as bad as it sounds.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 19:43:11 -0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Heat Shield under hood

Boris,

Do not remove the heat shield...you will destroy the paint on you hood from
the heat of the turbos generate.

Just replace the insulation with a new factory one.  I purchased one from
Tall. Mitsu for ~$35.  Polish up the metal heat shield and you're in
business!!

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT


>From: smii <smii@mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: smii@mediaone.net
>To: "Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: Team3S: Heat Shield under hood
>Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 16:44:47 -0500
>
>Hello everybody,
>
>I was wondering if anyone on the list has removed the heat shield from
>the under side of their hood.  Mine is starting to fall apart and I was
>wondering if there are any major concerns or any reasons why I should
>leave it on there.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Boris
>
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:51:46 EST
From: StevePKT77@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Experiencing a problem, need some help

Kristie,
If your check engine light is on then you can do your own diagnostic on it...
There is a way to read codes from the ECU on this car.  I don't know how,
though, since my check engine light has not come on ever since I've owned it
(too bad, cause mine seems to run a bit rich as well!)  Surely people on here
can tell you the process of reading ECU codes, anybody?  Let us know how you
make out.
- -Steve

In a message dated 01/07/2001 3:11:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kristie1@thesimpsons.com writes:

<< Sorry, I for got to mention also that my CHECK ENGINE light is on....
 Kristie
 93 stealth base(sorry) sohc. I've done some nice mods though.
  >>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 09:08:48 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Experiencing a problem, need some help

You can read the trouble codes with a voltmeter attached to the correct pins
on the diagnostic connector under the dash in the driver's compartment.  The
pins are shown in the service manual.  The code is a repeating series of
long and short voltage pulses and pauses. Then you have to decode the
message using the service manual.  I've done this to figure out which ECS
strut was installed wrong.

Sorry, the book's at home - I'm gonna have to strat dragging it in here with
me!

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: StevePKT77@aol.com [SMTP:StevePKT77@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 7:52 AM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Experiencing a problem, need some help
>
> Kristie,
> If your check engine light is on then you can do your own diagnostic on
> it...
> There is a way to read codes from the ECU on this car.  I don't know how,
> though, since my check engine light has not come on ever since I've owned
> it
> (too bad, cause mine seems to run a bit rich as well!)  Surely people on
> here
> can tell you the process of reading ECU codes, anybody?  Let us know how
> you
> make out.
> -Steve
>
> In a message dated 01/07/2001 3:11:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> kristie1@thesimpsons.com writes:
>
> << Sorry, I for got to mention also that my CHECK ENGINE light is on....
>  Kristie
>  93 stealth base(sorry) sohc. I've done some nice mods though.
>   >>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 01 08:18:33 EST
From: gangus@vnet.ibm.com
Subject: Team3S: idling problems after battery drained

Folks,

My battery completely discharged last week.  Since then, once my car warms
warms up, it wants to stall whenever I come to a stop.  I thought this
symptoms of a faulty idle speed controller servo (or stepper motor).    one bad, but I ran through
however, I removed the idle speed controller, ran the diagnostics
as outlined on page 14-63 in my service manual, applied the voltages to ed the voltage to the
the ISC, and it works.  So where do I go next ?  To my Dodge dealer for
diagnosis ?   Do I even tell him I suspect (or do not supect) anymore
about the ISC ?  Or do I just let HIM tell me what's wrong ?

One other thing.  On page 14-62, it says to check the operation sound of the
the Idle speed controller (ISC).  I cannot hear it when the key is
turned on and the car is not started.  It says "If the operation sound
is not heard, check the stepper motor actuation circuit. (If the
circuit is normal, the probable cause is a malfunction of the stepper
motor or engine control unit).  Based on the diagnostics I ran, I feel
the ISC is NOT faulty.

Does this mean my ECU is bad ?  Car runs fine otherwise...I know after
a while (2-3 weeks) this problem will go away, but it's really a pain
to drive this way (in traffic), especially in inclement weather.
This has happended before, I'm just getting really annoyed this time.

Any suggestions ?   Thanks.

It's a 92 Stealth ES - DOHC non-turbo.

Thanks,
  Alan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:14:28 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: idling problems after battery drained

You probably already have the answer if you have already observed that it
will go away over time based on past experience.  There is likely nothing
wrong with the car, although granted a few weeks is somewhat excessive.

If the car idled poorly at first, then you immediately started messing with
it, I am willing to bet that there isn't really a problem.  Resetting the
ECU, as would happen from a completely drained battery, causes it to lose
all information that makes it run properly.  The ECU will learn this over
time.  How long it takes varies but it can be a while (20-30 mins or more,
tends to improve over time beyond that) before the car feels right again.


Barry


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 09:20:16 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: Replacing the front wheel bearings on the VR4

So now I have decided to replace the front wheel bearings on my '93 VR4
before retiring it from the track.  I have loosened the lug nuts, raised the
car, removed the wheels, removed the cotter pins, reinstalled the wheels,
lowered the car, chocked each front wheel, loosened the 32 mm (1 1/4") hub
nut, and stopped until next weekend.   Next, I'll raise the car, remove the
wheels, remove the calipers, remove the rotors, and disconnect the ABS
sensor and then ...

I expect to remove the hub nuts, pull of the end of the wheel with the lugs
in it, and the front wheel bearings are just going to come off easily into
my hands, right?

What problems should I expect to run into?  I bought a nice shiny new torque
wrench that will go up to 250 ft-lbs.

I decided not to replace the rear wheel bearings myself, because since they
have inner and outer bearings, and it looks a lot more complicated.

Chuck  

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 09:25:57 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: Intercooler removal

So because I have some other work to do that involves removing the front
bumper, I am going to go ahead and remove the intercoolers on my '94 VR4 and
take them to a radiator shop for renovation.  Looking at the service manual,
the right one should be a piece of cake, but the left one seems like a
hassle.  Do I really have to remove all those intercooler hoses and pipes?
Do I really have to remove the oil cooler to take out the left intercooler,
or can I get at it without disconnecting the oil cooler?  That seems messy.

Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 08:35:10 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Replacing the front wheel bearings on the VR4

At 08:20 AM 1/8/01 , Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>I expect to remove the hub nuts, pull of the end of the wheel with the lugs
>in it, and the front wheel bearings are just going to come off easily into
>my hands, right?
>
>Chuck


Thats right, but it would be better to remove the wheel first, then pull
the hub assy out. That way you can hold onto the CV shaft while removing
the hub so it doesn't fall/move around and hit the ABS sensor (which
doesn't need to come all the way out) and other components.

Wayne


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 10:37:41 EST
From: StevePKT77@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: idling problems after battery drained

The same thing happened to me on my '92 Stealth R/T when I took it in to get
detailed.  I thought they must have washed something they shouldn't have,
since the detail included an engine scrubbing.  In actuality, it was because
they removed the battery cable during the detail process. 
The problem is, is the ECU resets when this happens, and it has to
automatically adjust itself all over again - mine fixed itself after I let it
run at idle for about 15 mins... driving it around didn't seem to help any
(it would stall whenever I stopped, unless I held down the gas pedal), maybe
the ECU needs it to stay at idle so it can adjust...  I guess an analogy
would be how on home computers some software tells you not to run any other
programs or touch the keyboard/mouse, etc., while auto-detecting things,
since this can alter its detection.  So try to just let it run at idle for 15
mins or so (if it won't stay on while idling, try pressing the gas to keep it
at a steady rpm level--but as I recall, mine would stay on at idle, just not
when driving then stopping).  Let us know how you make out.
- -Steve

In a message dated 01/08/2001 10:13:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gangus@vnet.ibm.com writes:

<< My battery completely discharged last week.  Since then, once my car warms
 warms up, it wants to stall whenever I come to a stop.  I thought this
 symptoms of a faulty idle speed controller servo (or stepper motor).    one
bad, but I ran through
 however, I removed the idle speed controller, ran the diagnostics
 as outlined on page 14-63 in my service manual, applied the voltages to ed
the voltage to the
 the ISC, and it works.  So where do I go next ?  To my Dodge dealer for
 diagnosis ?   Do I even tell him I suspect (or do not supect) anymore
 about the ISC ?  Or do I just let HIM tell me what's wrong ? >>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: 8 Jan 2001 09:38:15 MST
From: Mark Creekmore <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Team3S: Intercooler removal]

I was able to remove the drivers side intercooler by just unbolting the oil
cooler from the mounting hole. I didn't have to disconnect the oil lines. You
won't have to remove all of the intercooler hoses, just the ones that clamp to
the intercoolers.

Mark Creekmore
92' Stealth R/T TT


"Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org> wrote:
So because I have some other work to do that involves removing the front
bumper, I am going to go ahead and remove the intercoolers on my '94 VR4 and
take them to a radiator shop for renovation.  Looking at the service manual,
the right one should be a piece of cake, but the left one seems like a
hassle.  Do I really have to remove all those intercooler hoses and pipes?
Do I really have to remove the oil cooler to take out the left intercooler,
or can I get at it without disconnecting the oil cooler?  That seems messy.

Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:43:08 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Intercooler removal

Not sure about what it takes for removal but I question the need for it, and the
radiator shop idea. What's wrong with them that warrants R&R ????  IMHO
there is little a radiator shop can do, the intercoolers are welded aluminum
so if you need to patch a hole take it to a good welder.

        ` Jim Berry
===============================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Willis, Charles E. <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>

> So because I have some other work to do that involves removing the front
> bumper, I am going to go ahead and remove the intercoolers on my '94 VR4 and
> take them to a radiator shop for renovation


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:20:34 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Intercooler removal

A radiator shop will flush/clean them and unbend all the fins and repaint
them black if I choose.  It's not a matter of patching holes: it's a
maintenance issue.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 10:43 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Intercooler removal
>
> Not sure about what it takes for removal but I question the need for it,
> and the
> radiator shop idea. What's wrong with them that warrants R&R ????  IMHO
> there is little a radiator shop can do, the intercoolers are welded
> aluminum
> so if you need to patch a hole take it to a good welder.
>
>         ` Jim Berry
> ===============================================
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Willis, Charles E. <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
> To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > So because I have some other work to do that involves removing the front
> > bumper, I am going to go ahead and remove the intercoolers on my '94 VR4
> and
> > take them to a radiator shop for renovation

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 17:33:09 -0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!

Jeff Lucius, Matt Jannusch, John Basol, Dave, Everyone,

Thanks for all your replies guys.

So the first thing I will try to do is finish the installation on the EGT
meter.  Currently the meter is on the A-pillar, with the wiring pulled
through the fire wall.  I just have to do the hard part now and drill for
the probe in front of the FRONT TURBO.  I may have to pay a trusted mechanic
for this (and sugest they leave the car on, and use a magnet, and
supervise...so that no metal shavings fall into the turbo).

Next, I want to regap my plugs down to .34 inch.  I have not redone my plugs
yet.  I have a spare intake manifold gasket (if I'm using the wrong term, I
am reffering to the gasket that can get broken when trying to regapp the
rear plugs).  At the same time I will also look at the plugs with a
magnifying glass.

Last?  Whatis a A/F meter?  (Air/Fuel Meter, I'm sure.)  What is the
significance?  What good would an A/F meter be to me without a fuel
controller to adjust the curve up/down.  And then a good fuel controller is
expensive too.  So, how much is an A/F meter?  Do I just plug it in the MAF
sensor (by the K&N filter)?

Sorry about all the questions.  I'll see what I can find out about the 100%
IDC value.  It seems odd to me also if that would be really 100%.  Is there
a different tool we can use to measure IDC, aside from TMO.  Like, if I go
to the MITSU dealer and pay a $70 check up fee for them to check out my IDC
under WOT.  Woud a Mitsu scanner be more accurate.

Thanks a lot.

- -MIKE-          aa2345@wayne.edu
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter

Detroit Metro Area, Michigan


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #371
*********************