team3s
Sunday, January 7
2001
Volume 01 : Number
370
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 06 Jan 2001 14:34:22 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Oil in intake
I think a more unusual letter would be one that said
"I never see any oil
in
my intercoolers, hoses leading up to the intake,
or breather lines", since
they
always seem to have some oil there. I
had a catchcan on my breather from
the valvecover and after a couple weeks
including racing it had a few drops
of
oil total, so that wasn't a big
contributor; I think the turbo seals (yes I
said SEALS,
call whatever
clearances or thrust bearings around the shaft whay you will,
part of that
mechanism's job IS to SEAL the oil from the centersection out
of
the
exhaust and compressor sides--so SEALS they are) just leak a little
bit,
though it
can vary from very little to alot as the thrust
bearings/centersections
wear.
With higher boost, they wear more, and
can get annoying smoke out tailpipes
sometimes when off, then back on the
gas.
There is a circuit of crankcase ventilation gases; suction provided
by the
intake manifold (lower) you can see on top of motor to left.
This goes to
valvecover, there is another crossover between valvecovers
etc.
and then there is line going to intake tract below/after the MAS
etc.
I forget the totality of it, but you can trace it out looking at
it.
JT
noble wrote:
> regarding where oil breather
lines hook up to
> intake tracts.
> I have 3 sections off car,
wondering if anyone can
> confirm which is the oil breather line
>
1)Nar the front turbo, turbo rubber intake hose (bigger)
> 2)Near the rear
turbo, turbo rubber intake hose (smaller diameter hose)
> 3)Nearest the
BOV (kinda underneath)
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 01:20:35
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Running rough after timing belt
replacement
<html><DIV>I just finished doing the 60K mile
service, I replaced the timing belt tensioner, idler pulley, water pump,
thermostat, plugs, fuel filter, wires and belts. I did the fuel filter
and plugs and drove it for a day, then started the timing belt change.
I was following all the instruction and the only problem that occured was that
the front camspockets moved when I took the belt loose, I moved them back, as
told to do so by some of you. I finished the rest of the job, none of
the belts squeal and nothing leaks, but the exhaust rhythm is diffent and it
sounds a little rough. What do I do now? Does it just run
rough for a few minutes? I only let it run for three or four minutes
because I was afraid something was
wrong.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Michael</DIV><br
clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>
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------------------------------
Date: 6 Jan 2001 23:50:48
-0800
From: kristie1@thesimpsons.com
Subject:
Team3S: Experiencing a problem, I need some
info.
_______________________________________________
Get free
Internet access at www.thesimpsons.com
***
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------------------------------
Date: 6 Jan 2001 23:56:42
-0800
From: kristie1@thesimpsons.com
Subject:
Team3S: Experiencing a problem, need some help
Ok, here's the deal.
Today, I saw that my exhaust resonator was shot. I realized this after I also
realized that my car does not have great throttle response at all. This all
happened after I removed my resonator from my intake Friday. Ok, so I got my
exhaust fixed and was wondering why my car is running soo rich, and burning lots
of gas. The place that fixed my exhaust put my car on an emissions computer and
told me that the maximum level of gas in the exhaust is 220 and mine is very
near 500! So, my guess is either a map or oxygen sensor. But I really dont know.
The man also told me that this happens commonly on 3000's (the burning gas
problem). But, I'm still not sure what to think. Now I'm contemplating on
getting a diagnostic done. Anyone please let me know if you have any
information... please!
Kristie
_______________________________________________
Get free
Internet access at www.thesimpsons.com
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------------------------------
Date: 7 Jan 2001 00:10:30
-0800
From: kristie1@thesimpsons.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Experiencing a problem, need some help
Sorry, I for got to
mention also that my CHECK ENGINE light is on....
Kristie
93 stealth
base(sorry) sohc. I've done some nice mods
though.
_______________________________________________
Get free
Internet access at www.thesimpsons.com
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 09:34:01
-0500
From: "Steve Sullivan" <Sully@carolina.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ABS pump not shutting off
Anyone had any experience with their
ABS pump continuing to run for
hours after the car is turned off.
Anti-lock light stays on as well. Any
insight
would be greatly
appreciated.
Steve
94 VR-4
***
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 10:56:32
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: No more timing belt troubles
<html><DIV>I would like
to thank all of you guys for your encouragement and help. The car is
running fine now and I am much happier. My dad came out into the
garage, looked at the engine for a minute or so and said "Whats this loose
connector?" I had forgotten to hook up the MAF
sensor.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks
again,</DIV>
<DIV>Michael D. Crose</DIV><br
clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 08:06:19
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ABS pump not shutting off
Steve
I had one occurrence of the pump
staying on, I removed the ABS fuse
to stop the pump ---- actually I
screwed up and tried to remove the 60A
fusible link. I broke it in the
process and had to replace it, not a big deal
but a PITA. The problem didn't
reoccur but I mentioned it when having
some warranty work done and they said
it would probably happen again
so they replaced a relay on top of the ABS
pump. That requires the
removal of the splash panels in the wheel well and a
new relay --- not a
major job and the relay should be $20 or
so.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Steve Sullivan <Sully@carolina.rr.com>
To: Team3S
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Anyone had any experience with their ABS pump continuing to run for
>
hours after the car is turned off. Anti-lock light stays on as
well. Any
> insight
> would be greatly
appreciated.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 11:25:59
-0600
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Experiencing a problem, need some help
Sounds most like a bad O2
sensor. If you would like a pretty good one,
check out www.autometer.com or just a factory one
would work fine also.
- -Cody
#Sorry, I for got to mention
also that my CHECK ENGINE light is on....
#Kristie
#93 stealth base(sorry)
sohc. I've done some nice mods though.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 13:14:14
-0800
From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
where's the ground?
I've been doing a lot of work on the car, and a cable
has come loose. It
appears to be a ground cable, about 1/4" (~6 gauge) in
size. It's about a
foot long, and meets up with the main engine wiring
harness about 8" from
the battery. I'm guessing that it goes directly to the
battery ground, but
not certain since I already have one cable that goes from
the ground
terminal right to the fire wall. Is there a second cable that
hooks directly
to the battery neg terminal, or is there only one? Any
ideas?
Thanks
Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp
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End of team3s V1
#370
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