team3s
Saturday, January 6
2001 Volume 01
: Number
369
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 05 Jan 2001 09:30:49 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Braking, was: Technical Information Manual
Jim has hit the nail
on the head! Regardless of whether 2 or 3 wheels are
being
modulated, adding too much braking force to the rear will decrease
overall
stopping ability in an ABS system with 2 channels.
Only devoted track
enthusiasts are going to want to mess with their brakes.
Racers will want to
disable the ABS, add a front/rear brake proportioning valve,
and set the bias
by making repeated stops until you find the setting with the
shortest
stopping distance.
Maybe Geoff will shed some light on what he is doing
for braking...
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
> To:
Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
>
> > From the TIM (p. 5-22):
> >
> > "The AWD ABS is
a 4 sensor, 2 channel system and is the same as the 4
> > sensor, 3
channel system on the FWD models except for the following
> >
<clip>
> >The "select-low valve" prevents the lockup of one
rear
> > wheel. "Consequently, a total of three wheels - the front or
left
> > wheel and the rear right and left wheels - are
controlled
> > hydraulically at the same time." (TIM, p 5-25).
>
====================================================
> Jeff
>
> The last paragraph is the one that bothers me ---- the wording is weird
but
> it sounds like, if a rear wheel locks up then you lose the other
rear and one
> of the fronts. If you increase the braking on the rear,
bigger calipers and
> rotors, you have a much greater chance of locking up
a rear wheel which
> under heavy braking probably only provides 10% to 15%
of the stopping
> power. When one rear locks [15%] you lose the other rear
[15%] and one
> front [35%] ----65% of your braking is being modulated
even though you're
> only having trouble with 15%.
>
> That
would also explain the problems Merrit had when he broke a rotor, the
>
ABS system released 65% or more of his stopping power when the broken
>
rotor stopped turning ---- the remaining front would overheat and lose
it's
> effectiveness in a second or two.
>
> P.S. I
started reading your doctorial thesis on the vcu ---- I haven't gotten
>
through the equations yet, at my age I get a headache when I think too
long.
> I find it hard to believe I used to whip through that stuff ----
once in a while I'll
> look through one of my old engineering texts and
marvel at how smart I was.
>
> Jim Berry
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego,
CA
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 09:54:38
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Braking, was: Technical Information Manual
I cant do anything
*grin*
SCCA rules tell me the OEM ABS system must remain intact, as well
as the
AWD system (torque split..etc).
On Fri, 5 Jan 2001, Ken
Middaugh wrote:
> Jim has hit the nail on the head! Regardless
of whether 2 or 3 wheels are
> being modulated, adding too much
braking force to the rear will decrease
> overall stopping ability in an
ABS system with 2 channels.
>
> Only devoted track enthusiasts are
going to want to mess with their brakes.
> Racers will want to disable
the ABS, add a front/rear brake proportioning valve,
> and set the bias by
making repeated stops until you find the setting with the
> shortest
stopping distance.
>
> Maybe Geoff will shed some light on what he
is doing for braking...
>
> Jim Berry wrote:
> >
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
> >
To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
> >
>
> > From the TIM (p. 5-22):
> > >
> > > "The AWD
ABS is a 4 sensor, 2 channel system and is the same as the 4
> > >
sensor, 3 channel system on the FWD models except for the following
> >
> <clip>
> > >The "select-low valve" prevents the
lockup of one rear
> > > wheel. "Consequently, a total of three
wheels - the front or left
> > > wheel and the rear right and left
wheels - are controlled
> > > hydraulically at the same time." (TIM,
p 5-25).
> >
====================================================
> > Jeff
>
>
> > The last paragraph is the one that bothers me ---- the
wording is weird but
> > it sounds like, if a rear wheel locks up then
you lose the other rear and one
> > of the fronts. If you increase the
braking on the rear, bigger calipers and
> > rotors, you have a much
greater chance of locking up a rear wheel which
> > under heavy braking
probably only provides 10% to 15% of the stopping
> > power. When one
rear locks [15%] you lose the other rear [15%] and one
> > front [35%]
----65% of your braking is being modulated even though you're
> > only
having trouble with 15%.
> >
> > That would also explain the
problems Merrit had when he broke a rotor, the
> > ABS system released
65% or more of his stopping power when the broken
> > rotor stopped
turning ---- the remaining front would overheat and lose it's
> >
effectiveness in a second or two.
> >
> > P.S. I
started reading your doctorial thesis on the vcu ---- I haven't gotten
>
> through the equations yet, at my age I get a headache when I think too
long.
> > I find it hard to believe I used to whip through that stuff
---- once in a while I'll
> > look through one of my old engineering
texts and marvel at how smart I was.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
> >
> > *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> --
> If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics -
Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 12:35:14
-0600
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!
How are you determining knock is
present? The IDC being 100% would not be a
true indication that knock
is present. I wouldn't concern yourself with IDC
as much as A/F ratio
and EGT temps. Matt questions about what your actually
seeing is
valid. I don't think anyone has ever said what the IDC indication
on
the AVCs are in reference to. Bottom line though is that A/F and
EGT
will give you a much better idea of what is going on inside your engine
than
IDC will.
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu [SMTP:aa2345@wayne.edu]
Sent: Tuesday,
December 04, 2001 11:29 PM
To: Stealth
Subject: Team3S: Injector Duty
Cycle @ 100%!!!!
Everybody,
I have a potential problem on my 95
VR4 (38,000 miles). I monitored
and
recorded the IDC for a little
bit and was shocked with what I saw.
The specs on my car are as
follows:
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N
FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter (not yet functional)
G Teck 0-60 (4.9
sec)
Test that you see was done in 2nd gear, for setting A (1 bar) @
WOT:
IDC RPM Boost
80% 3900 .92
85% 4200 .84
90% 4400 .80
95%
4800 .77
100% 5000 .77
I also did a test in 2nd gear with the APEXI in
the OFF position @
WOT:
IDC RPM Boost
80% 5100 .44
85% 5300
.44
90% 5675 .44
91.5% 6200 .47
I did not run the car to redline
this time, but the IDC seemed to
have been
leveling off in the 90-92%
range (above 5600 RPM).
The car was not tuned for the much colder
weather. I just ran it
like it
was. Spike was @ 1.10 bars for
SETTING A. I did not get a chance
to
reccord the IDC values for my
brother's 94 TT, but he reports seeing
the
values get up to 100% even
faster than in my car/at an earlier RPM
under
full throttle (visual
inspection). My conclusions on this
phenomenon are
(from what I have
seen in the past on the list):
1. The injectors are truly maxed out --
engine asks for more fuel @
the
particular boost than they can
deliver.
2. There is knock in the engine and the ECU feeds more fuel than
is
actually
needed.
My car only has 38000 miles and I would hate to
see knock already.
Is this
normal behavior? What can I do aside from
running the car @ .5
bars? Does
this mean I need an injector upgrade
(720-900cc, a better fuel pump,
and
while I'm at it I might as well go
with larger turbos? That sounds
like
almost everything. Ouch,
if that's the way I have to
go.
-MIKE- aa2345@wayne.edu
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
John,
brother iraicu@cs.wayne.edu
94 Pearl Yellow
TT
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
Top speed
after mods 169 mph
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
PS. I have
graphs in Microsoft Excel of the data given above. If
anyone
wants
to examine them, I can send you individual e-mails with an
excel
sheet
attached to the e-mail.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 23:27:04
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cold Air Just Got Easier???
> Really? I have seen
cold air test in SCC on ~hondas~ with gains from 5 -
10
> hp from one
air intake to a cold air intake. 5 - 10 hp on a Honda can be
>
alot.
Unfortunately, this is within the tolerance of a dyno run and
doesn't say a
lot.
> That would be worth it to do on a NA car
with our limited upgrade
> path as it is... Didn't I hear somewhere
1 HP for every 10 degrees colder
> air intake charge or something like
that? I mean - all it would cost
would
> be some rubber tubing
right?
Yes, the 1hp rule is right and why not playing the guinea pig, buy
3
thermocouples and measure the temp in the intake plenum as well as in
the
air filter and outside temp. Check the difference between them and
install
the ducting. Now do the same measurment again and you can then see
what you
get. If the degrees are dropping in the plenum and the differences
are
measurable then you can use the 1hp formula.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 17:25:12
-0500
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!
This is a good question.
I've often questioned the accuracy of the AVC-R
IDC reading. I've been
seeing 100% IDC while running RC 500's @ 1 bar for
some time.
Otherwise, there is no indication that the injectors are
actually maxed
out. The AVC-R is wired into the injector signal to the ECU
but I don't
know if its biased to show 100% at actual 85% duty cycle. I can
run up
to 1.2 bars @ 6000 at which the IDC reading has long since maxed out,
yet
EGT's @ the back turbo run consistently in the 800C
region.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
> Does you AVC-R measure 100%
duty cycle to mean injector open 100% full
> pulsewidth (ie: essentially
switched on all the time), or 100% on display
=
> 85% pulsewidth
(maximum "safe" injector firing time)? If it means 85%
real
>
pulsewidth, then 100% on the display isn't quite as bad as it
sounds.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
Shop Safely Online Without a Credit Card
http://www.rocketcash.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 14:35:22
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cold Air Just Got Easier???
5-10Hp is well outside the
tolerance of a well maintained dyno...that
would be a significant gain
between two runs.
I rarely can point to more than a 1-2Hp deviation
between runs when I
go..which is quite often as I have five performance cars
to constantly
work on/upgrade/etc.
On Fri, 5 Jan 2001, Roger Gerl
(RTEC) wrote:
> > Really? I have seen cold air test in SCC on
~hondas~ with gains from 5 -
> 10
> > hp from one air intake to a
cold air intake. 5 - 10 hp on a Honda can be
> > alot.
>
> Unfortunately, this is within the tolerance of a dyno run and doesn't
say a
> lot.
>
> > That would be worth it to do on a
NA car with our limited upgrade
> > path as it is... Didn't I
hear somewhere 1 HP for every 10 degrees colder
> > air intake charge
or something like that? I mean - all it would cost
> would
>
> be some rubber tubing right?
>
> Yes, the 1hp rule is right
and why not playing the guinea pig, buy 3
> thermocouples and measure the
temp in the intake plenum as well as in the
> air filter and outside temp.
Check the difference between them and install
> the ducting. Now do the
same measurment again and you can then see what you
> get. If the degrees
are dropping in the plenum and the differences are
> measurable then you
can use the 1hp formula.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch
>
>
> ***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 16:39:18
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!
> The AVC-R is wired into
the injector signal to the ECU
> but I don't know if its biased to show
100% at actual 85%
> duty cycle. I can run up to 1.2 bars @ 6000 at
which
> the IDC reading has long since maxed out, yet EGT's @ the
>
back turbo run consistently in the 800C region.
That would seem to
indicate that there's a safety margin built into the
S-AVC-R displayed
value. If you ran at 100% injector open time (essentially
a flat DC
voltage to the injectors) then I'd say that the ECU would initiate
fuel cut,
with it assuming that something is wrong (malfunctioning wastegate
or MAF
sensor or something along those lines).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 00:12:26
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 upgrade update..
Yes, the Buschur pulley is a real one
with dampener, good thing !
But it's size looks huge, have you been able
to mount it with the fender
plastic cover to the wheel or mus it be removed
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
> Got the Buschur
pulley...man..work of art. Photos included as well. I
> cant
belive anyone would want the "other lightweight pulley" when this
> actual
functional one is available.
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 15:19:02
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 upgrade update..
*heh* If you look closely on that
page, you'll see theres no motor in the
car to have to worry about that
*heh*
On Sat, 6 Jan 2001, Roger Gerl (RTEC) wrote:
> Yes, the
Buschur pulley is a real one with dampener, good thing !
>
> But
it's size looks huge, have you been able to mount it with the fender
>
plastic cover to the wheel or mus it be removed ?
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch
>
>
> > Got the Buschur pulley...man..work of art. Photos
included as well. I
> > cant belive anyone would want the "other
lightweight pulley" when this
> > actual functional one is
available.
> >
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 21:14:27
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Help!1 Timing belt change
troubles
<html><DIV>
<DIV>This makes me
nervous, I was taking the tensioner off the timing belt and the intake
cam sprocket on the front bank of the engine moved a quarter of a turn
clockwise. I attempted to line it back up with the timing mark on the
head by turning in counter-clock wise but it has tension on it and it won't stay
lined up. What do I do now, none of the other sprockets appeared to
moved? It is a 1992 3000GT
VR-4.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Please
help,</DIV>
<DIV>Michael D. Crose</DIV></DIV><br
clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 21:22:03
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: FW:
Need suggestions on Boost controller
Rich,
>
>How hard is
it to install? Are the instructions in English?
>
With regard to the
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller...The
instructions are in English,
however they are not the best. This unit was
manufactured in Japan and
the instructions are probably translated. The
unit itself is very nice
esthetically, useful in terms of everything it can
do/monitor. It has
many parameters that in the end affect how well your car
is tuned.
Initially, we tuned both our cars one at a time with both of us
in the car
(one driving, the other watching the values and
playing/changing
parameters). Now, if the weather changes drastically,
and I see it not
holding enough boost or spiking, then I can tune it on the
fly by myself.
If you understand what the parameters do, then you can tune it
properly. It
has a learning mode for each individual gear that can be
enabled or
disabled. Third gear is the optimum one to tune by and to
generate a
reference curve. Then, 1st and 2nd gears you can shift the
curve up (they
will not want to hold boost as well as 3rd gear) in order to
hold closer to
1 bar. Fourth and 5th gears you shift down, because they
want to hold boost
above 1 bar. Keep in mind that this unit can have 8
adjustment points on
the RPM band in the smallest increments of 500 RPM, but
you can have larger
increments also. This meand that you can compensate
for the fact that your
car behaves different in along the RPM curve (ie.
-2500, 3000, 3500, 4000,
4500, 5000,6000, 6500+ RPM).
I had a
tremendous help from a few people on the list. I can compile all
the
messages they sent me and send them your way. I may even have the
HOME
DEPOT receipt of the extra few little things I had to buy. If I
find it I
will scan it for you.
So, installation wise: I had help from
local Detroit 3SI people. We got
together at someone's house and my
friends did the work in the engine bay
while I did the electric and
installation of gauges and pod and esthetics
inside for both my car and my
brothers. It helps if you have a friend that
has the APEXI AVC-R
instalation done on their car already. Things in the
engine bay would
go so fast. There are not that many things to do, but it's
just hard to
decide which hoses to cut and exactly where to place the stuff.
There is
nothing like the real thing. Once my friends did one of the cars,
the
other took 1/2 hour for the engine bay installation from start
to
finish. The next best thing is pictures, and the next is
TEXT.
From all the things I bought for my car, the only thing I would
change now
is the AUTOMETER Manual Boost Gauge (~$60). It reads good,
but if you spend
some more $ (ie. $250) you can get an electric one with peak
display, and 30
sec memory playback. The AVC-R has a reccord and
playback function, but it
is only available in the moving line graph on X
& Y axis. If you get the
gauges from the same manufacturer, they
will also match better. The Greedy
EGT Gauge looks good (Black face,
indiglo display @ night).
-
-MIKE- aa2345@wayne.edu
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
John,
brother iraicu@cs.wayne.edu
94 Pearl Yellow
TT
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
Top speed
after mods 169 mph
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 21:11:10
-0700
From: "Earthlink" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Broken lugs
They are 5mm spacers for the front and 10
lugs. I did not get the lug nuts.
I currently have a 3mm spacer but
at hard braking the rim slightly scratches
the rotor. I bought the 5mm
spacers a few months ago but have not put them
on yet.
I am on the
road and will be back home on Monday. I will send the info on
where I
got them then.
Best Regards
Moe
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"Earthlink" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>; "Desert
Fox"
<bigfoot@simmgene.com>;
"Team3S Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 04, 2001 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Broken
lugs
> You can buy stock lugs at the Mitsu dealer for about $1.50
each. I carry a
> couple of spares, ever since I snapped off three studs
in one year. Be
sure
> to put anti-seize compound on them. What
happens, you see, is they get
> really hot from braking and then seize.
Since I started using the
> anti-seize compound I haven't broken
any.
>
> A>I am guessing that you might have to find
>
>someone with a hydraulic press to have them taken out and the new
ones
put
> >in.
>
> Nah. They pop right out after you
loosen up the lower ball joint to get a
> little room.
>
>
> >The only reason I am charging is because I spent $75.00 for the
spacers
and
> >lugs.
>
> Moe -- is that $75 for two
front spacers, 10 studs and 10 lug nuts? How
> wide a spacer? 1/2 inch?
Where did you get them?
>
> Rich/old
poop
>
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 21:34:43
-0700
From: "Earthlink" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Need suggestions on Boost controller
Thanks for the
info.
I already have a K&N FIPK, and the dual pod. I have a
price of $469.95 from
www.mvpmotorsports.com. But I can't
afford this yet.
It looks like there will be at least three guys buying
the Boost Controller
and I am hopping that we can install all them together
so we save time on
the second and third car.
What is a Greddy EGT
gauge and does it come in 2 1/16" gauge?
I agree that the Boost gauge
should be an electronic instead of mechanical.
I would like to buy the
electronic 2 1/16" gauge but over $200 for a gauge
seems like a lot. I just
may have to settle for an Auto Meter gauge.
Carparts has them for about $50
to $60. The one I want is about $50.
I also have installed a HKS
exhaust and boy it sounds great.
Happy New Year
Moe
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
To: <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Cc:
"Stealth" <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, December 04, 2001 10:29 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: Need suggestions on
Boost controller
> Moe,
>
> Both myself and my brother
have the new APEXI AVC-R boost controllers
> installed on our cars (95 VR4
and 94 TT). It is a great unit, and we are
> both happy. It
reccords RPM, SPEED, BOOST, Throttle, Soleonoid, Injector
> Duty
Cycle. It has numerical gauges, analog gauges, and bar
graph
displays.
> It uses fuzzy logic and it learns different gears if
you so chose to. If
> left in learning mode it will adjust to
different altitudes, barometric
> pressures, and temps. Its boost
and dutyies are adjustable in increments
of
> 500 RPM(smallest
increment)(real nice). It also has a peak hold value to
> monitor
the maximum values reached. It has night and day settings for
>
different light conditions that get changed automatically.
>
> Al in
all, it is a very nice unit. Go for it! It is a bit tricky to
tune
> at the beginning, but once you do it once or twice, it becomes a
piece of
> cake. Keep in mind that you will need the K&N FIPK
and a reputable Boost
> Gauge (in a pod) aside from the unit. The
EGT Gauge is optional, but a
nice
> thing to have for your car's
safety.
>
> Accelerated Accessories-Chris (mention 3SI)
>
301-393-8800
>
> Here are the prices I paid:
> Apexi AVC-R
Actuator Valve Controller Type-R - KIT $500.00
> K&N Filter Charger
Injection Performance Kit $159.00
> Autometer Boost Gauge $60.00
>
Gredy EGT Gauge $163.00
> Dual Pod $30.00
> Shipping for above 5
items $20.00
> TOTAL $932.00
>
> Shop around and see if anyone
can beat these prices. It's best to get
> everything from one place
though.
>
>
>
-MIKE- aa2345@wayne.edu
> 95 Red VR4
>
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
> K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
>
> John, brother iraicu@cs.wayne.edu
> 94 Pearl
Yellow TT
> Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
> K&N FIPK,
Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
> G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4
mph)
> Top speed after mods 169 mph
>
> Detroit Metro Area,
Michigan
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:
Wed, 27 Dec 2000 21:38:09 -0700
> From: "uswest" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
>
Subject: Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
>
> I am
thinking about getting a boost controller. I currently have a
K&N
FIPK
> filter and HKS Turbo catback exhaust. The next
step would be a
> boost controller.
>
> I just put a new short
block and can not effort to put another one in if
I
>
overboost.
>
> How safe are these boost controllers? How easy are
they to install and
> program? Would I need a BOV before installing the
boost controller? Would
I
> need a new Y pipe or the stock Y pipe will
do? My plans are not to race
this
> car but have enough power just
incase it is ever needed.
>
> I have been looking at these two
controllers:
>
> HKS EVC EC Electronic Valve Boost
Controller.
> Apexi AVC-R Turbo Boost Controller.
>
> Please
provide opinions, preference.
>
> Rgds
>
Moe
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001 00:28:36
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help!1 Timing belt change troubles
<html><P>Thank you
Dave and Kevin. I thought I had done something that I wouldn't be able
to fix. Horrible thoughts were going through my mind about not being
able to get it back togther right and having to have it towed to a shop so they
could fix my mistake. This makes me feel a lot better especially
knowing that I am not the only one to have this happen. I may have to
ask a few more question but hopefully I will be able to get the sprockets held
in place and put the new belt on without any futher
complications.</P>
<P>Thanks again
guys,</P>
<P>Michael</P><br clear=all><hr>Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 05:20:07
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!
The ECU does not initiate fuel
cut based on IDC. I have seen 100+%
IDC many times using the TMO and no fuel
cut was initiated. If our
cars function as the DSM do (and the Stealth TIM
indicates this),
fuel cut is initated at "overun" or 7500 RPM and during
"overboost",
which means when the ECU determines that too much air is
entering per
engine cycle (the "A/N" ratio) [see section 14 in the DSM TIM
on
Vineet's CD for reference].
As far as knock goes, the ECU will dump
fuel in response to very high
knock values; I and others have observed this
with the TMO. Of
course, 100% IDC does not automatically mean knock is
present.
Likewise, 800ºC EGT or "rich" A/F values also does do not
exclude
knock.
Since the 1995 owners can't use the TMO, maybe it is
worth taking a
look at the spark plugs for signs of detonation plus rich or
lean
conditions. Remember, just because the average EGT or A/F is OK
does
not mean there is not a problem in one cylinder. Instructions
for
getting to the spark plugs are on the Garage Page at my web site.
You
will want to use a magnifying lens (a geologist's 10X hand lens
work
nicely) to look for very-small specks of aluminum on the ceramic
or
metal, plus of course physical damage or deterioration.
As others
have warned, and as I am beginning to sound like a broken
record, you cannot
always hear the knock that is damaging your
engine. Running high boost levels
with a stock fuel system (an no WI)
always increases the probability of
(silent) knock.
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
"Team 3S" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 05, 2001 3:39 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @
100%!!!!
> The AVC-R is wired into the injector signal to the
ECU
> but I don't know if its biased to show 100% at actual 85%
>
duty cycle. I can run up to 1.2 bars @ 6000 at which
> the IDC
reading has long since maxed out, yet EGT's @ the
> back turbo run
consistently in the 800C region.
That would seem to indicate that there's
a safety margin built into
the S-AVC-R displayed value. If you ran at
100% injector open time
(essentially a flat DC voltage to the injectors) then
I'd say that
the ECU would initiate fuel cut, with it assuming that something
is
wrong (malfunctioning wastegate or MAF sensor or something along
those
lines).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 14:28:46
-0800
From: "noble" <nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Oil in intake
I have a question regarding where the oil breather
lines hook up to the
intake tracts.
I currently have 3 sections off
the car, and was wondering if anyone can
confirm which of
these is the oil
breather line (I'll hook up a catch can later)
1)Near the front turbo,
turbo rubber intake hose (bigger)
2)Near the rear turbo, turbo rubber intake
hose (smaller diameter hose)
3)Nearest the BOV (kinda underneath)
Any
help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Noble
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#369
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