team3s
Friday, January 5
2001
Volume 01 : Number
368
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 Jan 2001 08:41:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 upgrade update..
Theyre the stock ones modofied to
completely solid mounts. Only the
transfersal mounts will be
stock.
On Thu, 4 Jan 2001, Dan Mecier wrote:
> Geoff,
>
> Where did you get the motor mounts or did you have them made for
you?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan Mecier
> 3SX
> 94
3000GT VR-4
> New photos.
>
> http://www.speedtoys.com/%7Esyzygy/vr4proj/photoalbum.html
(link at
> bottom)
>
> Got the Buschur pulley...man..work of
art. Photos included as well. I
> cant belive anyone would
want the "other lightweight pulley" when this
> actual functional one is
available.
>
> Sorry the cage wasnt in yet, but its coming.
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 10:28:06
-0700
From: "Matthew H. Fogle" <foglem@t-three.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Rebuilt or new engine price? VR4
I just had a relapse of my common sense
when I stopped to think, how
much would it cost to replace my VR4's engine if
it ever died. So I
figured I'd ask here as I'm sure it's happened to someone.
Also, has
anyone ever taken out their rear seat to make more room for stereo
or
cargo?? Thanks...
Matthew H. Fogle
foglem@t-three.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 09:25:35
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rebuilt or new engine price? VR4
Depends how it died.
Could be as simple as bearings & rings+labor, or a
total
disaster.
$1500-$7k
On Thu, 4 Jan 2001, Matthew H. Fogle
wrote:
> I just had a relapse of my common sense when I stopped to
think, how
> much would it cost to replace my VR4's engine if it ever
died. So I
> figured I'd ask here as I'm sure it's happened to someone.
Also, has
> anyone ever taken out their rear seat to make more room for
stereo or
> cargo?? Thanks...
>
> Matthew H. Fogle
> foglem@t-three.com
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:36:44
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: brake mishaps
I thought everyone would enjoy hearing how I have
messed up my old caliper
while rebuilding it.
I sheared off the
fitting on the Goodridge brake line. Then I broke the tip
off a tap
that I put in to remove what was left of the fitting. Then I
drilled out the
"tap tip" using a Dremel tool. Then I proceeded to destroy
the threaded
section of the caliper by repeated drilling and tapping. Turns
out that
the stainless steel in the fitting would rather flake off than
turn. So
now I need to go to the wrecking yard for an old front caliper.
Maybe the
pistons from the next one won't be as dinged up as some of the
other ones I
have.
By the way, the front calipers for the '94 VR4 have a different
part number
than the ones for the '93 VR4, yet both use the same pads.
Are front
calipers from these two years interchangeable, or am I going down
another
blind alley?
Oh yeah, does anybody have some old worn out rear
brake pads for a '94 VR4?
I need the metal backs to get custom pads
manufactured. I finally found a
brake pad I like (Panther) and they
make the front pads, but have none of
the rear pads for 2nd generation or
backs. Seems, that pad fits only our 2nd
generation VR4, and none
other.
Happy new millenium,
everybody!
Chuck
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 13:02:35
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: The last word on torque split?
Hi all,
There has been
considerable discussion over the years regarding
"torque split" in our
transmission/center differential. I have
updated my thoughts on this subject
at my web page below for those
that also find the 45/50 issue
interesting.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-AWD3.htm
My
claim is that engine torque is split evenly between front and rear
axles and
prove this, I believe, with pictures and discussion. I
would appreciate any
comments or criticisms on my analysis. Better
yet, prove me wrong (for those
that like a challenge). I include
Mitsubishi's technical explanation of
torque split too that some may
find interesting (from the 1991 Stealth
Technical Information
Manual). This page is about 300K bytes so may load a
bit slowly on
some computers.
Happy torquing,
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 13:23:06
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Technical Information Manual
Hi all,
My extreme good
fortune recently allowed me to acquire a used copy of
the 1991 Stealth
Technical Information Manual. This manual is similar
to the DSM Tech Manual
(available on Vineet's CD) and is not a
service manual. It has tons of
interesting information.
I have been trying to locate additional copies
without success. Does
anybody else here have a copy of this manual? Does
anyone have the
Mitsubishi version (if there is one)? Is there a version for
newer
models?
I have tried the following sources for auto books plus
local Dodge
dealers. The part number is 81-699-0114.
Chrysler-Daimler
publications: 800-890-4038 (they said it was out of
print, no longer
available, and no newer versions)
Budco: 800-626-1523
Saxon:
800-458-2734
Motorbooks(?): 800-544-3312
http://www.books4cars.com/ (Alex there is
knowledgable, honest, and
helpful; and they have *lots* of out of print and
hard to find car
books and manuals)
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 17:01:58
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Quick: need 2nd gen VIN #
Hello all -
I'm trying to do some
compatability studies here, and need a VIN number
from a second generation
vehicle!!! Please email me directly if you are
willing - it would be
most appreciated!
Thanks
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
PS - I can't see any risk in this, just like if you were selling
it, you
could give it out to
anyone..
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
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*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 17:41:33
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Quick: need 2nd gen VIN #
Now THAT's response time!
Thanks to
Matt Jannusch and Darren Shilberg, they both replied back to me
faster than
my server could go and get their messages!!!
Ken =)
Ken Stanton
wrote:
> Hello all -
>
> I'm trying to do some
compatability studies here, and need a VIN number
> from a second
generation vehicle!!! Please email me directly if you are
> willing
- it would be most appreciated!
>
> Thanks
> Ken
Stanton
> '91 Pearl White RT/TT
>
> PS - I can't see any risk
in this, just like if you were selling it, you
> could give it out to
anyone..
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com
>
> ***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 16:00:32
-0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Broken lugs
I have 2 broken off lug studs, one front left, one
rear left. Do I have to
repack the wheel bearings to replace these or can I
get to them without
having to?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT
VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 19:52:26
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 60,000 mile service - - help needed
<html><DIV>I am
in the middle of the 60,000 mile service and having some difficulties.
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I have looked in
the service manual and found the picture showing the rear bank coolant
drain plug but I don't know exactly where it is on the car, can I get to it from
the top or do I have to get to it from the
bottom?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Any ideas
as to how to get the A/C idler pulley off? I can't get a socket wrench
on it.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Also, in
the Team 3/S FAQ section on the 60,000 mile service there is nothing said about
turning any of the camshaft sprockets or crankshaft but the service manual says
to turn the crankshaft three teeth and then turn the intake and exhaust cams
certain ways? Is this neccesary, can't you just count the teeth on the
belt, like in the FAQ and copy the marks to the new belt and install
it?
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Michael
D.
Crose</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV><br
clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 17:42:50
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: brake mishaps
Hi Chuck,
Send me your snailmail. I'm
sure I have a worn out
set of rear '94 pads in my garage.
Sorry
to hear of your rebuilding woes. The '93 and
'94 front calipers do use
the same pads. BUT the
mounting arm brackets are slightly
shorter/longer to
accommodate the slightly larger '94 rotor. Other
than
the arms, the calipers are identical.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- "Willis, Charles E."
<cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
> I thought everyone would enjoy hearing how I have
> messed
up my old caliper
> while rebuilding it.
>
> I sheared off
the fitting on the Goodridge brake
> line. Then I broke the
tip
> off a tap that I put in to remove what was left of
> the
fitting. Then I
> drilled out the "tap tip" using a Dremel tool.
Then
> I proceeded to destroy
> the threaded section of the caliper
by repeated
> drilling and tapping. Turns
> out that the
stainless steel in the fitting would
> rather flake off than
>
turn. So now I need to go to the wrecking yard for
> an old front
caliper.
> Maybe the pistons from the next one won't be as
> dinged
up as some of the
> other ones I have.
>
> By the way, the
front calipers for the '94 VR4 have
> a different part number
> than
the ones for the '93 VR4, yet both use the same
> pads. Are
front
> calipers from these two years interchangeable, or am
> I
going down another
> blind alley?
>
> Oh yeah, does anybody
have some old worn out rear
> brake pads for a '94 VR4?
> I need the
metal backs to get custom pads
> manufactured. I finally found
a
> brake pad I like (Panther) and they make the front
> pads, but
have none of
> the rear pads for 2nd generation or backs. Seems,
>
that pad fits only our 2nd
> generation VR4, and none other.
>
> Happy new millenium, everybody!
>
> Chuck
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:59:51
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60,000 mile service - - help needed
> Any ideas as to how
to get the A/C idler pulley off? I can't get a
> socket wrench on
it.
Open-end or box-end wrench? If you can't get in there good
because the
pulley itself is in the way, you can purchase an offset box-end
wrench where
the ends angle inward so you can get at hard to reach
places. The ones
pictured in the FAQ are offset wrenches.
>
Also, in the Team 3/S FAQ section on the 60,000 mile service there
> is
nothing said about turning any of the camshaft sprockets or
> crankshaft
but the service manual says to turn the crankshaft three
> teeth and then
turn the intake and exhaust cams certain ways? Is
> this neccesary,
can't you just count the teeth on the belt, like
> in the FAQ and copy the
marks to the new belt and install it?
Yeah, you can count teeth
and/or make marks on the pulleys and belt. As
long as nothing gets put
back together out of position things should be
good. Once you have it
all back together and the tensioner is set you might
want to rotate the crank
by hand until the alignment marks realign and make
sure all the alignment
indicators line up correctly. Make sure the
tensioner is adjusted
properly!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:13:12
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Technical Information Manual
Jeff ---- Good find
Hmmmm
---- maybe we can get Vineet to scan it and include it in the manual.
One
of the questions I have is about the ABS --- how many channels ?? I saw
a
thread that said two but I talked to a tech and he said four. If it's two
and
you seriously increase the braking on the rear wheels you may reduce
the
overall capability of the system. Locking up a rear wheel, which
probably
only provides 15% of the braking would result in loss of the rear
plus one of
the fronts, probably the opposite side front. Any info in the
manual about that
kind of stuff.
I've talked to a couple of Mitsu techs
about training manuals and such with no
positive results --- I'm sure they
had/have training courses for the techs and
therefor manuals but no one
seems to know about them.
<shrug>
Jim
Berry
========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Hi all,
>
> My extreme good fortune recently allowed me to acquire
a used copy of
> the 1991 Stealth Technical Information Manual. This
manual is similar
> to the DSM Tech Manual (available on Vineet's CD) and
is not a
> service manual. It has tons of interesting information.
>
> I have been trying to locate additional copies without success.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 22:32:47
-0500
From: Steve Lasher <s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 upgrade update.
Geoff,
Thanks for the pics.
What kind of wheels are those five-spokers? I'm wondering
what
different kind of wheels will fit over the Big Reds.
TiA,
Steve
Lasher
92 VR-4
> Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 22:02:45 -0800
(PST)
> From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
Subject: Team3S: VR4 upgrade update..
>
> New
photos.
>
> http://www.speedtoys.com/%7Esyzygy/vr4proj/photoalbum.html
(link at
> bottom)
>
> Got the Buschur pulley...man..work of
art. Photos included as well. I
> cant belive anyone would
want the "other lightweight pulley" when this
> actual functional one is
available.
>
> Sorry the cage wasnt in yet, but its
coming.
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 20:38:33
-0700
From: "Earthlink" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Broken lugs
I might have extra lugs that come with my
spacers. I am on the road and
will be back home next week. These
lugs are for my VR4 so they should fit
your car without any problems. I
am guessing that you might have to find
someone with a hydraulic press to
have them taken out and the new ones put
in.
If interested, let me
know. You can have 3 of them for $12.00 including
shipping.
The only
reason I am charging is because I spent $75.00 for the spacers
and
lugs.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Desert Fox" <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
To: "Team3S
Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 04, 2001 4:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: Broken
lugs
> I have 2 broken off lug studs, one front left, one rear
left. Do I have to
> repack the wheel bearings to replace these or can I
get to them without
> having to?
>
> --
> Paul/.
>
95 black 3000GT VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
> formerly
reasonable and prudent
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 22:56:36
-0500
From: Rick <melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Broken lugs
All you need to do is knock the broken ones out with
a punch,and pull the others
back though with the nuts.Thats on most
cars,have'nt had to do it on one of
these cars yet,should be
room.LUCK
RICK
Earthlink wrote:
> I might have extra lugs
that come with my spacers. I am on the road and
> will be back home
next week. These lugs are for my VR4 so they should fit
> your car
without any problems. I am guessing that you might have to find
>
someone with a hydraulic press to have them taken out and the new ones
put
> in.
>
> If interested, let me know. You can have 3 of
them for $12.00 including
> shipping.
>
> The only reason I am
charging is because I spent $75.00 for the spacers and
>
lugs.
>
> Rgds
> Moe
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Desert Fox" <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
> To:
"Team3S Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 4:00 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Broken
lugs
>
> > I have 2 broken off lug studs, one front left, one
rear left. Do I have to
> > repack the wheel bearings to replace these
or can I get to them without
> > having to?
> >
> >
--
> > Paul/.
> > 95 black 3000GT VR-4
> > 98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
> > formerly reasonable and
prudent
> >
> >
> > *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 20:40:04
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 upgrade update.
Those are Gewalts, they just barely fit,
but they DO fit.
YMMV (and 1/64th of an inch) may vary.
On Thu, 4
Jan 2001, Steve Lasher wrote:
> Geoff,
>
> Thanks for the
pics. What kind of wheels are those five-spokers? I'm
wondering
> what different kind of wheels will fit over the Big
Reds.
> TiA,
>
> Steve Lasher
> 92 VR-4
>
>
>
> > Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 22:02:45 -0800
(PST)
> > From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
> Subject: Team3S: VR4 upgrade update..
> >
> > New
photos.
> >
> > http://www.speedtoys.com/%7Esyzygy/vr4proj/photoalbum.html
(link at
> > bottom)
> >
> > Got the Buschur
pulley...man..work of art. Photos included as well. I
> >
cant belive anyone would want the "other lightweight pulley" when this
>
> actual functional one is available.
> >
> > Sorry the
cage wasnt in yet, but its coming.
> >
> > ***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 23:10:43
-0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Broken lugs
You can buy stock lugs at the Mitsu dealer for
about $1.50 each. I carry a
couple of spares, ever since I snapped off three
studs in one year. Be sure
to put anti-seize compound on them. What happens,
you see, is they get
really hot from braking and then seize. Since I started
using the
anti-seize compound I haven't broken any.
A>I am
guessing that you might have to find
>someone with a hydraulic press to
have them taken out and the new ones put
>in.
Nah. They pop right
out after you loosen up the lower ball joint to get a
little room.
>
>The only reason I am charging is because I spent $75.00 for the
spacers and
>lugs.
Moe -- is that $75 for two front spacers, 10
studs and 10 lug nuts? How
wide a spacer? 1/2 inch? Where did you get
them?
Rich/old poop
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 00:28:50
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!
Everybody,
I have a potential
problem on my 95 VR4 (38,000 miles). I monitored and
recorded the IDC
for a little bit and was shocked with what I saw.
The specs on my car are
as follows:
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N
FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter (not yet functional)
G Teck 0-60 (4.9
sec)
Test that you see was done in 2nd gear, for setting A (1 bar) @
WOT:
IDC RPM Boost
80% 3900 .92
85% 4200 .84
90% 4400 .80
95%
4800 .77
100% 5000 .77
I also did a test in 2nd gear with the APEXI in
the OFF position @ WOT:
IDC RPM Boost
80% 5100 .44
85% 5300
.44
90% 5675 .44
91.5% 6200 .47
I did not run the car to redline
this time, but the IDC seemed to have been
leveling off in the 90-92% range
(above 5600 RPM).
The car was not tuned for the much colder
weather. I just ran it like it
was. Spike was @ 1.10 bars for
SETTING A. I did not get a chance to
reccord the IDC values for my
brother's 94 TT, but he reports seeing the
values get up to 100% even faster
than in my car/at an earlier RPM under
full throttle (visual
inspection). My conclusions on this phenomenon are
(from what I have
seen in the past on the list):
1. The injectors are truly maxed out --
engine asks for more fuel @ the
particular boost than they can deliver.
2.
There is knock in the engine and the ECU feeds more fuel than is
actually
needed.
My car only has 38000 miles and I would hate to see
knock already. Is this
normal behavior? What can I do aside from
running the car @ .5 bars? Does
this mean I need an injector upgrade
(720-900cc, a better fuel pump, and
while I'm at it I might as well go with
larger turbos? That sounds like
almost everything. Ouch, if
that's the way I have to go.
-
-MIKE- aa2345@wayne.edu
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
John,
brother iraicu@cs.wayne.edu
94 Pearl Yellow
TT
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
Top speed
after mods 169 mph
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
PS. I have
graphs in Microsoft Excel of the data given above. If anyone
wants to
examine them, I can send you individual e-mails with an excel sheet
attached
to the e-mail.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 00:29:43
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Need suggestions on Boost controller
Moe,
Both myself and my
brother have the new APEXI AVC-R boost controllers
installed on our cars (95
VR4 and 94 TT). It is a great unit, and we are
both happy. It
reccords RPM, SPEED, BOOST, Throttle, Soleonoid, Injector
Duty Cycle.
It has numerical gauges, analog gauges, and bar graph displays.
It uses fuzzy
logic and it learns different gears if you so chose to. If
left in
learning mode it will adjust to different altitudes, barometric
pressures,
and temps. Its boost and dutyies are adjustable in increments of
500
RPM(smallest increment)(real nice). It also has a peak hold value
to
monitor the maximum values reached. It has night and day settings
for
different light conditions that get changed automatically.
Al in
all, it is a very nice unit. Go for it! It is a bit tricky to
tune
at the beginning, but once you do it once or twice, it becomes a piece
of
cake. Keep in mind that you will need the K&N FIPK and a
reputable Boost
Gauge (in a pod) aside from the unit. The EGT Gauge is
optional, but a nice
thing to have for your car's safety.
Accelerated
Accessories-Chris (mention 3SI)
301-393-8800
Here are the prices I
paid:
Apexi AVC-R Actuator Valve Controller Type-R - KIT $500.00
K&N
Filter Charger Injection Performance Kit $159.00
Autometer Boost Gauge
$60.00
Gredy EGT Gauge $163.00
Dual Pod $30.00
Shipping for above 5
items $20.00
TOTAL $932.00
Shop around and see if anyone can beat
these prices. It's best to get
everything from one place
though.
-
-MIKE- aa2345@wayne.edu
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
John,
brother iraicu@cs.wayne.edu
94 Pearl Yellow
TT
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
Top speed
after mods 169 mph
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
-
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 21:38:09
-0700
From: "uswest" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
I am thinking about getting
a boost controller. I currently have a K&N FIPK
filter and HKS
Turbo catback exhaust. The next step would be a
boost
controller.
I just put a new short block and can not effort to put
another one in if I
overboost.
How safe are these boost
controllers? How easy are they to install and
program? Would I need a BOV
before installing the boost controller? Would I
need a new Y pipe or the
stock Y pipe will do? My plans are not to race this
car but have enough power
just incase it is ever needed.
I have been looking at these two
controllers:
HKS EVC EC Electronic Valve Boost Controller.
Apexi AVC-R
Turbo Boost Controller.
Please provide opinions,
preference.
Rgds
Moe
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 01:19:54
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycle @ 100%!!!!
> Test that you see was
done in 2nd gear, for setting A
> (1 bar) @ WOT:
> IDC RPM
Boost
> 80% 3900 .92
> 85% 4200 .84
> 90% 4400 .80
> 95%
4800 .77
> 100%5000 .77
> I also did a test in 2nd gear with the
APEXI in the OFF position @ WOT:
> IDC RPM Boost
> 80% 5100
.44
> 85% 5300 .44
> 90% 5675 .44
> 91.5% 6200
.47
Looks pretty normal to me, assuming you still have stock fuel
injectors...
Cold air temperatures result in denser air. The more air
molecules going
through the MAF sensor means the ECU cranks up the fuel
delivery to
compensate for that. You might want to consider reducing
boost at cold
temps so as to not push the injectors too hard, or shift
earlier. An
injector failure not caught right away can cause piston
damage. If you are
only hitting 100% occasionally you might be able to
get away with it.
Does you AVC-R measure 100% duty cycle to mean injector
open 100% full
pulsewidth (ie: essentially switched on all the time), or 100%
on display =
85% pulsewidth (maximum "safe" injector firing time)? If
it means 85% real
pulsewidth, then 100% on the display isn't quite as bad as
it sounds.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 08:20:09
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Technical Information Manual
Hi Jim,
One of the
reasons I am looking for another copy is so I (or Vineet)
can make good
scanned copies so the information is widely available.
A month ago I didn't
even know this manual existed. To say the least,
I was ecstatic when I saw
the contents. Unfortunately, only one
person has responded that they have a
copy (but they are looking to
see if they can find another, thanks
Mike).
From the TIM (p. 5-22):
"The AWD ABS is a 4 sensor, 2
channel system and is the same as the 4
sensor, 3 channel system on the FWD
models except for the following
items.
- - Addition of G-sensor
- -
Mounting position of speed sensor
- - Addition of select-low valve in
hydraulic unit
- - Addition of a controller function to increase idling speed
(rpm)
- - Elimination of solenoid valve (1 piece)"
There is much more
info on the exact functioning that is too much to
include here. The
"select-low valve" prevents the lockup of one rear
wheel. "Consequently, a
total of three wheels - the front or left
wheel and the rear right and left
wheels - are controlled
hydraulically at the same time." (TIM, p
5-25).
Hope this helps,
Jeff Lucius
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 04, 2001 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Technical Information
Manual
Jeff ---- Good find
Hmmmm ---- maybe we can get
Vineet to scan it and include it in the
manual.
One of the questions I
have is about the ABS --- how many channels ??
I saw a thread that said two
but I talked to a tech and he said four.
If it's two and you seriously
increase the braking on the rear wheels
you may reduce the overall capability
of the system. Locking up a
rear wheel, which probably only provides 15% of
the braking would
result in loss of the rear plus one of the fronts, probably
the
opposite side front. Any info in the manual about that kind of
stuff.
I've talked to a couple of Mitsu techs about training manuals
and
such with no positive results --- I'm sure they had/have
training
courses for the techs and therefor manuals but no one seems to
know
about them.
<shrug>
Jim
Berry
========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Hi all,
>
> My extreme good fortune recently allowed me to acquire
a used copy
of
> the 1991 Stealth Technical Information Manual. This
manual is
similar
> to the DSM Tech Manual (available on Vineet's CD)
and is not a
> service manual. It has tons of interesting
information.
>
> I have been trying to locate additional copies
without success.
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 09:07:42
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Technical Information Manual
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: Jim
Berry <fastmax@home.com>
>
From the TIM (p. 5-22):
>
> "The AWD ABS is a 4 sensor, 2 channel
system and is the same as the 4
> sensor, 3 channel system on the FWD
models except for the following
> <clip>
>The
"select-low valve" prevents the lockup of one rear
> wheel. "Consequently,
a total of three wheels - the front or left
> wheel and the rear right and
left wheels - are controlled
> hydraulically at the same time." (TIM, p
5-25).
====================================================
Jeff
The
last paragraph is the one that bothers me ---- the wording is weird but
it
sounds like, if a rear wheel locks up then you lose the other rear and one
of
the fronts. If you increase the braking on the rear, bigger calipers
and
rotors, you have a much greater chance of locking up a rear wheel
which
under heavy braking probably only provides 10% to 15% of the
stopping
power. When one rear locks [15%] you lose the other rear [15%] and
one
front [35%] ----65% of your braking is being modulated even though
you're
only having trouble with 15%.
That would also explain the
problems Merrit had when he broke a rotor, the
ABS system released 65% or
more of his stopping power when the broken
rotor stopped turning ---- the
remaining front would overheat and lose it's
effectiveness in a second or
two.
P.S. I started reading your doctorial thesis on the vcu ---- I
haven't gotten
through the equations yet, at my age I get a headache when I
think too long.
I find it hard to believe I used to whip through that stuff
---- once in a while I'll
look through one of my old engineering texts and
marvel at how smart I was.
Jim Berry
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#368
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