team3s
Wednesday, January 3
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
366
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Jan 2001 10:01:13 -0500
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Triple Gauge Pod
Darren, the "triple pod guy" was Dan Mercier
with a '94 VR-4. He had a
dual and single stacked. I don't know
where he got the passenger side
pods. I was only aware of drivers side
aftermarket pillar pods. Maybe
they were DSMs. Dan also replaced
his 3 factory guages with aftermarket
ones. I believe they were all
Autometer White faced.
Dan and Steve Burroughs are starting a little
company that will sell
DUAL guages. It will have 2 readouts in one 52mm
guage. This saves
lots of space, and eliminates the need for pillar
pods.
dschilberg@freemarkets.com
WROTE:
At the First Blue Ridge Gathering this past year I saw at
least one
3000GT with a triple gauge pod on both the driver's and passenger's
side
A-pillars. The passenger's side is harder to see so was used
for
less-important gauges to the driver (maybe intake temp and stuff
like
that).
Maybe somebody will come forward that it was
their car. I can't
remember
if that was a TT or N/A car as one of
the guys was running nitrous on
his NA
so a few gauges could have been for
that. I took some video of it that
I
might review if I don't find
the picture of it.
- --
Marc J. Jacobs Blue '94 VR-4
xDSL Hardware
Development
Alcatel, Raleigh USA (919)
850-6386
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 07:03:04
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Triple Gauge Pod
When I talked to a tech at Autometer 2 years
ago, he said they did
not make a triple A-pillar pod for our cars and had no
plans to do
so. There may be other manufacturers of a triple pod but I have
not
found them. As others have done, I used a dual and single and
careful
carving with an Exacto knife to make a "triple" pod. Pictures are
at
my web site. I found that occasionally I would bump the closest
gauge
with my head if working near the dash on something. Not really a
big
deal. And a large person may have to be careful to avoid the last
pod
when entering the car.
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
To: "starnet"
<stealth@starnet.net>
Cc:
"Team3S" <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 01, 2001 9:34 PM
Subject: Team3S: Triple Gauge
Pod
Where can i find one, or are they even manufactured for our
cars?
I swear I have seen one, but can't find it for the life of me
now...
-
-Cody
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
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***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 10:12:22
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Triple Gauge Pod
Thanks mucho, Marc. His passenger
gauge pods were the same as the driver's.
This was a left-hand drive car so
the ones on the passenger side were as if
it were a right-hand drive
car. That is the reason the angle was better for
a passenger to read or
for non-critical gauges.
Looking forward to those 2-in-1 gauges
soon. :-)
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com
3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs [mailto:Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, January 02, 2001 10:01 AM
To: Team3S; dschilberg@freemarkets.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Triple Gauge Pod
Darren, the "triple pod guy" was Dan Mercier
with a '94 VR-4. He had a
dual and single stacked. I don't know
where he got the passenger side
pods. I was only aware of drivers side
aftermarket pillar pods. Maybe
they were DSMs. Dan also replaced
his 3 factory guages with aftermarket
ones. I believe they were all
Autometer White faced.
Dan and Steve Burroughs are starting a little
company that will sell
DUAL guages. It will have 2 readouts in one 52mm
guage. This saves
lots of space, and eliminates the need for pillar
pods.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 07:32:05
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help, car does not start
Hmmm. How would the scanner know
that the engine was running rich if
the stock O2 sensor was bad? Does the
scanner have its own sensor?
Seems to me that if the mixture is rich and the
stock O2 sensor shows
that, then the sensor is fine. Just a guess.
:)
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Rudy Morales" <rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, December 31, 2000 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help, car does not
start
<snip>
looking at the scanner with the engine running my
friend said that
it was at rich all the time (and he says it should rich then
lean
then
rich then lean, etc) he said it probably is a bad O2 sensor and
that
the computer is sending too much gas mixture and it floods
the
engine.
<snip>
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 09:25:14
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: clacking noise question
Hi Todd,
On my '91 VR4 with
128K, I get a lot of lifter noise using Mobil 1 10-30.
Therefore, I usually
run 15-50 even in winter. This reduces lifter noise
immensely.
There are some oil reports on the web that show Mobil 1 still flows
superbly
even in sub-zero conditions. See the "pour point" on the chart at
http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html.
Mobil 1 5-30 has a pour point of -65
degrees F, while 15-50 is only 10
degrees higher at -55 F.
Try the higher viscosity oil to see if the
problem diminishes. You should have
no damage.
See
you,
Ken
> My car was making a funny noise a few days ago, so I
parked it. I think
> it was a lifter problem, but it's gone now. I would
like an opinion from
> you guys on the list.
>
> History: '94
vr-4 120k miles. flushed oil with "gunk", ran 10-40 dino
> oil for ~1000
miles. parts store was out of 10-30 mobil1, so used 5-30
> mobil1 instead,
new filter.
>
> Problem: started on christmas vac. trip. at about
600 miles (Utah,
> really cold to us californians) pulled over for gas.
when i stopped at
> the pump it started clacking really badly. changed
with rpm. assumed it
> was a rod bearing. got a hotel room because I was
really frustrated at
> this point. (had a blow out at 300 miles. finished
off my bad rim, and
> new tire kept leaking) in the morning I started it
up, and the noise was
> gone. turned around and headed home. started
ticking again, below 2500
> rmp, after about 150 miles. got stuck in LA
traffic. now ticking was
> just between 2500 and 3000 rpm. when I got home
i played with it. noise
> seemed to be from top end, instead of bottom.
hoping it was just a
> sticky lifter which didn't like the thinner
oil.
>
> Questions:
> Could this be a collapsed/stuck
lifter?
> Did I do any damage driving with it this way?
>
> I
would appreciate any feedback or opinions from you guys.
- --
If
you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 14:33:03
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
CARPARTS CODES!!!
Everybody,
Does anyone have a new code for
CARPARTS.COM? The 33% OFF code (1963005)
expired already. I
talked to them about it and they do not want to give me
the discount.
If anyone else has a new code, please let me know.
-
-MIKE- aa2345@wayne.edu
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 15:03:56
-0500
From: "Russell Edwards" <blue@cois.on.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: it's only money hahaha
Joe
I decided to take the
car instead to a "local mechanic" and this time i
made sure the car was warm
!!
There it passed the pre test and he is at this moment diagnosing the
reason
for failing the actual test that he carried out (high HC
levels)
the car is stock and I had a feeling it might fail as I have
the typical
(or so i am told) blue smoke "puff" after idling for a few
minutes when the
engine is at operating temp. Which according to posts on the
3si web site is
caused by leaking valve stem seals.
I had planned to get
that job done and wasn't sure if it was possible to do
them with the heads on
(only way i have done this in the past was to
pressurize the cylinder with an
adapter to fit the plug hole but that was on
a Small block v8 ) as finding a
workshop manual for the stealth has proven
impossible.
Thanks for the
advice
Russell Edwards
$2500 is way too much if just new valve stem
seals will fix it. I haven't
heard
of too many people needing to
replace valve guides unless a timing belt
slipped and valves hit
pistons. Seals shouldn't cost much and can be
swapped
without
removing the heads. Only guessing, but job is maybe worth 5 hours
labor
so
maybe $500 Canadian tops for parts and labor.
BTW - was
the engine fully warmed up before they did the pre-inspection?,
if not
do so next time. Is your car moded with bigger injectors and
fuel
computers etc.?, just curious if you were expecting to pass or
not.
Best of luck,
Joe Gonsowski
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 15:12:45
EST
From: XCricKX@aol.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: High Flow Cat?
are we talking about turbo or NA?
i heard that for turbo cars its good to have high flow cat or no cat but
for
NA we gonna lost some low end torque.
is this
true??
ben
http://www.drdisturbed.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 12:57:41
-0800
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: CARPARTS CODES!!!
Good coupon page...
http://www.importhookup.com
-
-Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
To: "Stealth" <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<WDBO39@erols.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
January 02, 2001 11:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: CARPARTS CODES!!!
>
Everybody,
>
> Does anyone have a new code for CARPARTS.COM?
The 33% OFF code (1963005)
> expired already. I talked to them about
it and they do not want to give
me
> the discount. If anyone else
has a new code, please let me know.
>
>
-MIKE- aa2345@wayne.edu
> 95 Red VR4
>
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
> K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT
Meter
>
> Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
>
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 13:49:28
-0800
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch problem - update
Well, after listening to some peoples' opinions
on the clutch fork, it's
fine. But today, after looking at the pressure
plate more carefully, I
noticed that there was a loose bolt that was about to
fall off. So I
removed the clutch and flywheel (I have to replace the
leaking crank seal
anyways) and I noticed the flywheel is extrememly
worn. The surface is
completely scratched and uneven for the entire
area that the clutch disc
touches the flywheel. I have the RPS Stage
III clutch disc and pressure
plate with the stock flywheel. For only
driving 5000 miles since I
installed the clutch, I would imagine this is not
normal. So after talking
to my friend...here's his theory:
The
clutch isn't disengaging because he thinks my slave cylinder is toast
even
though it's only 5000 miles old. Because of the loose bolt on
the
pressure plate, the clutch disc was unevenly set and started to wear away
at
the flywheel. This situation was only worsened because of the worn
slave.
I agree with the pressure plate part, but I'm still unsure about
the slave
wearing away so fast. I looked at it and there isn't any
signs of leaking
in the boot. While that doesn't mean the slave is
okay, I find it
coincidental that both problems occured at the same
time. So here's my
question:
Is it possible that the loose bolt
on the pressure plate could cause my
disengagement problem (the clutch
doesn't disengage fully, even after
adjusting the pedal and booster rod
nut). Is it possible that the flywheel
was worn away so much that this
somehow screwed up the disengaging process.
I would imagine that the clutch
would probably slip rather than stay
together if this was the case, but I
just have to ask anyways.
I'm just about had enough with this car's
reliability as of this past year
and a half...and I'm loosing my patience
with it.
Thanks again,
Chris "The Dis-heartened"
Maxwell
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 14:58:12
-0800
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S:
more on suspension
A little more clarity on spring
issues. Here's a brief run down on what
I've found with my own independent
research.
1. Eibach - no application for any model 95 and up with a
sunroof.
2. Intrax - Claims they fit with 83.55 rule. (read H&R)
3.
H&R - Made the most sense of all. They explained that it actually
has
nothing to do with the sunroof. How they explained it....The suspension
was
built a little differently on 95 + models. The rear springs specifically.
It
was hard to tell which model had which rear spring BUT every car that had
a
sunroof had the more than one possibility. So it was simply easier to
say,
"If it has a sunroof we can't fit it." This may or may not be true
however.
H&R has springs for either of the two possibilities on a 95+.
The one in
their catalog fits any model without a sunroof and some of the
ones with a
sunroof. If you need the other model call and ask. They have them
both.
Unfortunately it's only a one inch drop in front and rear. What they
suggest
we all do is if the spring looks the same size it probably is.
Intrax
specifically said diameter at the top needs to be 83.55mm. They'll
drop it
1.7/1.5.
4. Neuspeed - Nothing.
5. Progress - Nothing.
6.
HKS - ?
This all makes for a much more believable
story to me. What I'll do on
my '97 SL with an electric sunroof is to take
out the rear springs and
measure every possible angle. Then I'll call all the
spring companies back
and ask again based on measurements. Unless someone has
already tried this?
I didn't see it come up in the search of
archives....
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc.
(ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 19:37:47
-0500
From: "Russell Edwards" <blue@cois.on.ca>
Subject: Team3S: its
only money--latest update
Well finally got the results from my
local mechanic
car has past the test "conditionally" which means no visible
smoke or other
problems but not a full pass (this means i cannot sell the car
and have to
have it fixed properly within 2 years)
final diagnosis is bad
rings/compression on 2 cylinders , marginal on the
third (all on the rear
bank)
plus the original valve stem seal problem
only good news is that my
"local" mechanic can remove the engine send it out
to a reputable machine
shop (i have dealt with them before so i know they
are good)
for a full
rebuild and reinstall for $3300 cdn + taxes
so looks like thats what i will
be doing
I will be leaving it until March as they have too much work on at
present
but at least I can use it in the meantime
will keep you all
posted
Russell
92 Stealth R/T
2000 Intrepid R/T
86
Corvette
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 06:44:11
-0800
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
High Flow Cat?
It is a fair price, but it is a rather wimpy cat. The old
ceramic ATR
cat was a disaster (check previous posts). It disintegrated
rather
quickly. I have had the new ATR high flow cat in for over 10k miles
now
with no problems like the old one, but there are better ones for
more
$$$.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
Jeff Lucius wrote:
>
> Well the ATR "high-flow" cat weighs 10 pounds less than the
stocker
> (5 vs. 15). The ATR also has 3" openings versus the 2.37"
openings of
> the stocker. I could see through the ATR cat; the stocker
was like a
> solid block (after 55,000 miles of course). A quick search of
the net
> showed that dyno results can be nearly identical for
performance
> engines with an open exhaust versus with a cat, with the
right
> tuning. While replacing a cat only that is working well is not
worth
> it, it is probably a good idea to replace it if the rest of
the
> exhaust is being upgraded. $175 seems like a very fair
price.
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
> Cc: "Team3S"
<team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 8:29 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: High Flow
Cat?
>
> Ive heard this multiple times from shops all over the
country (and
> out of
> it).
>
> SCC even did a test
with a 'high flow' cat once, and lost 2hp.
>
> *shrug*
>
> A convertor has to have a certain amount of resistance to flow
to
> work,
> because the gasses need to stay in contact with the
catylist for a
> long
> enough period of time to work.
>
> On Mon, 1 Jan 2001, Barry E. King wrote:
>
> > I asked
my muffler guy about a hi-flow cat a few years back. He
>
said
> > "You're looking at it" and pointed to the stocker. He
could sell
> me Random
> > Technologies and others and make some
cash, but he stated, without
> > hesitation, that they don't offer any
improvement over a stock one.
> He told
> > me he'd sell me
one if I wanted or if I needed a new one, but other
> than
> >
that there would be zero benefit. *shrug*
> >
> > Notice
how the flow comparisons offered by these companies are
> never
against
> > a stock cat (at least not the last time I chekced)?
I'll get one
> when I
> > need a replacement, but I don't think
I'll bother until that time.
> Seems to
> > be better places to
spend the money.
> >
> >
> > Barry
>
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
> >
> In search of more upgrades to do to my car as of now, i stumbled
>
upon this
> > > site which lists larger flow cats for VR-4s for
$175. What
> diameter is
> > > this? I am going
with a 3" exhaust system to a muffler then two
> > > 2.25"
outs
> > > from there.
> > >
> > > www.discountconverter.com
>
> >
> > > Would that be beneficial, or should I look to
another company -
> Random
> > > Technologies???
>
> >
> > > -Cody
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 21:55:58
-0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: its only money--latest update
I would do one more test before
deciding to pull the engine. Leakdown (aka
differential pressures) the
rear cylinders and determine if the leakage is past
the valves or rings (you
will be able to hear the leak path if you pressurize
the cylinder to
100psi. If it is by the valves, you only need to pull the rear
bank
head. Loss of compression on one bank could easily be caused by a
cam
skipping a couple teeth (or mistimed during a tune-up) and lightly
kissing the
pistons before being corrected. Or possibly over revving
the engine from a
downshift when you're trying to upshift and the valves on a
given cam may float
enough to hit the pistons before revs get back under
control.
Although $3,300 Canadian sounds extremely cheap for the work
involved (assuming
they do good work).
Again, good luck,
Joe
Gonsowski
Russell Edwards wrote:
> Well finally got the results
from my local mechanic
> car has past the test "conditionally" which
means no visible smoke or other
> problems but not a full pass (this means
i cannot sell the car and have to
> have it fixed properly within 2
years)
> final diagnosis is bad rings/compression on 2 cylinders ,
marginal on the
> third (all on the rear bank)
> plus the original
valve stem seal problem
> only good news is that my "local" mechanic can
remove the engine send it out
> to a reputable machine shop (i have dealt
with them before so i know they
> are good)
> for a full rebuild and
reinstall for $3300 cdn + taxes
> so looks like thats what i will be
doing
> I will be leaving it until March as they have too much work on at
present
> but at least I can use it in the meantime
> will
keep you all posted
> Russell
> 92 Stealth R/T
> 2000 Intrepid
R/T
> 86 Corvette
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 20:38:32
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: High Flow Cat?
> While replacing a cat only that is
working well is not worth it
- ---
I disagree. Its a well known
fact at as a convertor ages, it slowly loses
flow efficiency and catylitic
efficiency as well. 10-15Hp can be lost in
an old convertor as you
approach 90-100k miles.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 00:58:16
-0600
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Cold Air Just Got Easier???
Ok, so, maybe this product has been around a
while, but for some reason, i
just now thought of this (I think of some
things at the weirdest times I
swear)
Regardless - I was browsing Ebay
Motors, and found an air filter that I will
believe will work with my generic
3" cone adapter for the generic DIS style,
K&N filter. The product
I have seen is made by rActive (I think) and I have
seen it as complete
systems for other cars. My question is - looking at the
design of it,
with the semi-heat shield thing in place, it looks pretty easy
to add some
nice 4" ducting that could virtually run anywhere... cold air
made
easy...
What do you all think???
Here is a sample pic I
found..
http://home.att.net/~zvs/filter/filteryel3.jpg
-
-Cody
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 14:12:49
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: more on suspension
The only answer to this is to get a Ground
Control Kit with Eibach springs
and the stock spring rate. Anything else will
result in squeeks and rattles
in the sunroof.
Here in Europe we do
have springs called "Apex Springs" and the lower the
car more than an
inch. They do not have an exception for the cars equipped
with
sunroofs.
> A little more clarity on spring
issues. Here's a brief run down on
what
> I've found with my own
independent research.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 14:09:36
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: High Flow Cat?
> It is a fair price, but it is a rather
wimpy cat. The old ceramic ATR
> cat was a disaster (check previous
posts). It disintegrated rather
> quickly.
Yes, unfortunately Rich
is right as I also had the very same ceramic cat,
very light but not worth
any money. ATR exchanged the cat without any cost
and I got the heavier metal
cat. Please note, the ceramic one is 10 lbs
ligehr due to the small two
ceramic cat pieces at the in and out section of
it. The metallic version now
has a full metall part that flows well but is
also heavier !
> I
have had the new ATR high flow cat in for over 10k miles now
> with no
problems like the old one, but there are better ones for more
>
$$$.
The metal one is really godd and it is made my Random Tech. It is
available
form RT directly with different inlet/outlet sizes and
flanges.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 13:57:27
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cold Air Just Got Easier???
> seen it as complete systems
for other cars. My question is - looking at
the
> design of it,
with the semi-heat shield thing in place, it looks pretty
easy
> to add
some nice 4" ducting that could virtually run anywhere... cold air
>
made easy...
No it is not easy at all to run any duct top the filter.
Almost no chance
for the TT cars.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 14:05:41
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: its only money--latest update
> I would do one more test
before deciding to pull the engine. Leakdown
(aka
> differential
pressures) the rear cylinders and determine if the leakage is
past
>
the valves or rings (you will be able to hear the leak path if
you
pressurize
> the cylinder to 100psi.
Even more, it is
important that a good engine flush as well as a good carbon
cleaning is done
prior to these tests. Especially the leak down can show
strange results when
the valve seats are clogged up by carbon.
Furthermore, the engine does
not need to be pulled as we were able to work
through the oil pan and from
the top. This pushed the overall cost
significantly down by about a
grand.
I have only read "lower compression" but do you have the figures
of all
cylinders ? And did they removed the carbon beforehand ? And as
already
asked what is the timing belt adjusted to ?
Hmm, I'd like to
see the figures again but with proper testing
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 09:02:54
-0600
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cold Air Just Got Easier???
ok ok, but ~easier???~
what
about running the duct, not from the front of the car, but maybe
relocating
the battery, and running the duct from the rear firewall closer
to the
ground???
(there should be room in the N/A's...)
-
-Cody
#> seen it as complete systems for other cars. My
question is - looking at
#the
#> design of it, with the semi-heat
shield thing in place, it looks pretty
#easy
#> to add some nice 4"
ducting that could virtually run anywhere...
# cold air
#> made
easy...
#
#No it is not easy at all to run any duct top the filter. Almost
no chance
#for the TT cars.
#
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of team3s V1
#366
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