team3s
Tuesday, January 2
2001 Volume 01
: Number
365
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 31 Dec 2000 23:58:53 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: Greddy Type S BOV
> I have been hearing a lot of different things
about BOVs.
>
> 1). The Blitz SSBOV utilizes the stock BOV so it is
not ideal for
> situations where the problem is "your stock BOV
leaks."
Easily rectified with a small modification to bypass the stock
valve if
necessary. Suggest alternate spring if exceeding 19
PSI.
> 2). The HKS SSBOV replaces the stock BOV but does not blow
off
> back into the intake path therefore the possibility of the car
running too
rich and
> possibly stalling in applications that use 550cc
or larger injectors is
> possible.
Really not a big deal.
Really. This applies to all the BOVs listed here.
It CAN be tuned
around despite what others may claim. I own the Blitz with
the high
pressure spring and have zero problems with stumbling when the
throttle is
lifted, a symptom of a number of possible things but sometimes
attributed to
the BOV. Both the BOV and the fuel computer (whatever you are
using)
need to be properly tuned in conjunction with your shift points and
desired
boost levels.
> 3). The Greddy Type S BOV replaces the stock BOV and
blows of
> back into the intake path similar to the stock BOV and like the
stock BOV,
has
> the tendency to leak in applications that are running
20 psi or more.
Most consumer oriented BOVs will leak at these boost
pressures. It is
inherent in the mass production tolerances. The
cylinders in the mass
produced units have widely varying tolerances.
There are handmade units
that do not leak (or leak so little it doesn't
matter) but they come at a
premium.
> Are these statements true and
if so, which BOV is the best to use
> in a car that will soon be running
15G turbos and 550cc injectors?
Avoid the plastic ones -- they are simply
junk and for show only.
> Thanks in advance------
>
>
Royal K. Watkins III
> Senior Programmer Analyst
> Total System
Services Inc.
> 1995 Black 3000GT VR-4 (3SI #210)
> 2000
Yellow TL1000R
Barry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 23:34:39
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Greddy Type S BOV
On Mon, 1 Jan 2001
GTOTLR@cs.com wrote:
> 2). The HKS
SSBOV replaces the stock BOV but does not blow off back into the
> intake
path therefore the possibility of the car running too rich and
> possibly
stalling in applications that use 550cc or larger injectors is
>
possible.
- ---
I belive thats an issue with the injector type, as the
injector gets
larger the harder it gets to control it at idle. Nippon
style injectors
solve this problem for the most part, as theyre easier to
fine-tune at low
pulse rates. Also, if the VR4 has this problem..its
gotta be unique.
Toyota's dont, I have three Toyo turbo models with
open-release BOVs
without any problems.
> Are these statements true
and if so, which BOV is the best to use in a car
> that will soon be
running 15G turbos and 550cc injectors?
- ---
I'll let ya know what we
use..but it'll probly be twin HKS SSQVs on 15Gs
and 900cc
injectors.
Should be done in the next 2 weeks.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 03:48:21
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rotors and pads
I have a fairly comprehensive discussion of
brake upgrades at the
link below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htmIt
is focused on the AWD models but you might find some useful info
there for
your FWD car.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
AABOMB1@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, December 30, 2000 11:32 AM
Subject: Team3S: rotors and
pads
Hello list members.
I have a warped rotor, so in a month or
two I will be ordering a new
set of rotors and pads. I decided I want to just
go ahead and buy the
best set available. Which rotors would you all
recommend? Any
particular pads or just the factory?
Please keep in
mind that I need these parts for a *non*turbo and I
would like to spend
something no higher than in the upper three
figures.
I appreciate
it!
'94 3000GT (Naturally Aspirated DOHC)
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.com__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://photos.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 14:05:39
-0500
From: "Russell Edwards" <
blue@cois.on.ca>
Subject: Team3S: it's
only money hahaha
Just thought I would share my latest woes with the
group
I took my 92 Stealth R/T to my dealership yesterday for the new
Canadian
emmisions test
well -- it didn't even pass the pre inspection as
there was visible smoke in
the exhaust (sounds like an oxmoron )
anyway I
knew it was burning some oil and assumed after reading the Faq's
that it was
probably valve stem seals
well dealer thinks its either that or a valve
guide
either way i'm looking at $2500 cdn for the repairs
such is the
price I guess for loving these cars , Funny thing is is that
when I bought
this one (my second stealth, previous one being a 91 ES) my
service manager
at the dealership asked if my wallet hadn't had enough
punishment
yet.
Wondering if this sounds right or is this to much to
pay
Russell
92 Stealth R/T
2000 Intrepid R/T
86
Corvette
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 16:11:30
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
High Flow Cat?
In search of more upgrades to do to my car as of now, i
stumbled upon this
site which lists larger flow cats for VR-4s for
$175. What diameter is
this? I am going with a 3" exhaust system
to a muffler then two 2.25" outs
from there.
www.discountconverter.comWould
that be beneficial, or should I look to another company -
Random
Technologies???
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 15:23:38
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
High Flow Cat?
I asked my muffler guy about a hi-flow cat a few years
back. He said
"You're looking at it" and pointed to the stocker.
He could sell me Random
Technologies and others and make some cash, but he
stated, without
hesitation, that they don't offer any improvement over a
stock one. He told
me he'd sell me one if I wanted or if I needed a new
one, but other than
that there would be zero benefit.
*shrug*
Notice how the flow comparisons offered by these companies are
never against
a stock cat (at least not the last time I chekced)? I'll
get one when I
need a replacement, but I don't think I'll bother until that
time. Seems to
be better places to spend the
money.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
In search of more upgrades to do to my car as of now, i stumbled upon
this
> site which lists larger flow cats for VR-4s for $175. What
diameter is
> this? I am going with a 3" exhaust system to a muffler
then two
> 2.25" outs
> from there.
>
>
www.discountconverter.com>
>
Would that be beneficial, or should I look to another company -
Random
> Technologies???
>
> -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 16:28:08
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: High Flow Cat?
Ok, but what about a larger than factory n the
Non-turbo model???
- -Cody
#-----Original Message-----
#From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st#[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Barry E. King
#Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 4:24 PM
#To:
Team3S
#Subject: RE: Team3S: High Flow Cat?
#
#
#I asked my muffler
guy about a hi-flow cat a few years back. He said
#"You're looking at
it" and pointed to the stocker. He could sell me Random
#Technologies
and others and make some cash, but he stated, without
#hesitation, that they
don't offer any improvement over a stock
#one. He told
#me he'd sell
me one if I wanted or if I needed a new one, but other than
#that there would
be zero benefit. *shrug*
#
#Notice how the flow comparisons offered
by these companies are
#never against
#a stock cat (at least not the last
time I chekced)? I'll get one when I
#need a replacement, but I don't
think I'll bother until that time.
# Seems to
#be better places to spend
the money.
#
#
#Barry
#
#> -----Original
Message-----
#>
#> In search of more upgrades to do to my car as of
now, i stumbled
#upon this
#> site which lists larger flow cats for
VR-4s for $175. What diameter is
#> this? I am going with a 3"
exhaust system to a muffler then two
#> 2.25" outs
#> from
there.
#>
#>
www.discountconverter.com#>
#>
Would that be beneficial, or should I look to another company -
Random
#> Technologies???
#>
#> -Cody
#
#
#***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
#
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 17:26:34
-0500
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
New HKS Super AFR
unit
Hello
everyone, I was just wondering if anybody on the list
has purchased one
of the new HKS Super AFR units yet? I'm up in the air
on whether to buy
the GCC or the new Super AFR,
which I was told is a much better product due
to the fact that you can
adjust your fuel up to 50%
in 1% increments. This
unit can also connect to the VPC unit for fine
tuning of the fuel
curve.
I got my but spanked today, and I know it's
because I am running way
to rich. If I lean out my VPC anymore I will stall
my car, but if I
leave it the way it is, it runs to rich. I guess it's time
for the next
step in fuel management. Any advice would be
helpful.
Sincerely,
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 15:31:59
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
High Flow Cat?
No direct experience with the NT from which to draw.
Get a cat that fits
with the rest of the system from a diameter standpoint
and go with it.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Ok, but what about a larger than factory n the
Non-turbo model???
>
> -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 00:01:58
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question on Boost Gauges
> Besides price, what is the
difference between Mechanical and Electronic
> Vac/Boost
gauge?
It's really only the lenght of the vac hose, but this isn't a big
deal
(electrical wires can also be damaged !)
> Can I use a
Mechanical Gauge or do I have to use an Electronic gauge?
Whatever you
like.
> Will I be able to run the vac hose in the pillar pod into the
engine
> compartment?
Yes, no problem.
> Does anyone have
a step by step instructions for the installation of a
boost
> gauge
that identifies what hose to tap into to get the gauge working?
Check out
the Blitz DSBC installation pages on my site :
www.rtec.ch/3000gt.htmlRoger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 23:58:29
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Greddy Type S BOV
> > 1). The Blitz SSBOV utilizes
the stock BOV so it is not ideal for
> > situations where the problem
is "your stock BOV leaks."
>
> Easily rectified with a small
modification to bypass the stock valve if
> necessary. Suggest
alternate spring if exceeding 19 PSI.
The SSBOV is not the best solutions
in our cars design and the "your BOV
leaks" statement is true ... every stock
BOV leaks as there is a small hole
in there. I'd not use the Blitz even with
the stock BPV out.
> > 2). The HKS SSBOV replaces the stock BOV but
does not blow off
> > back into the intake path therefore the
possibility of the car running
too
> rich and
> > possibly
stalling in applications that use 550cc or larger injectors is
> >
possible.
>
> Really not a big deal. Really. This
applies to all the BOVs listed here.
> It CAN be tuned around despite what
others may claim. I own the Blitz
with
> the high pressure spring
and have zero problems with stumbling when the
> throttle is lifted, a
symptom of a number of possible things but sometimes
> attributed to the
BOV. Both the BOV and the fuel computer (whatever you
are
>
using) need to be properly tuned in conjunction with your shift points
and
> desired boost levels.
I disagree in this because I had the
HKS on my car and during shifting,
there was aleways an ultrarich condition
due to the measured air was
released. Problem got not really recognized but
visible in the datalogs. The
Greddy Type S solved the problem.
>
> 3). The Greddy Type S BOV replaces the stock BOV and blows of
> >
back into the intake path similar to the stock BOV and like the
stock
BOV,
> has
> > the tendency to leak in applications that
are running 20 psi or more.
No, not true. If you need really a stronger
spring then you can get it from
Greddy.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 16:42:59
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: Greddy Type S BOV
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> > 1). The Blitz SSBOV utilizes the stock BOV so it is not ideal
for
> > > situations where the problem is "your stock BOV
leaks."
> >
> > Easily rectified with a small modification to
bypass the stock valve if
> > necessary. Suggest alternate spring
if exceeding 19 PSI.
>
> The SSBOV is not the best solutions in our
cars design and the "your BOV
> leaks" statement is true ... every stock
BOV leaks as there is a
> small hole in there. I'd not use the Blitz even
with the stock BPV out.
Based upon what exactly? I know several
SSBOV installations that work fine.
I also know of a number that do
not. I have seen many brands work and the
same brands not work.
It depends upon how they are installed and how the
system is tuned.
If
all you want is a louder sound, it really doesn't matter. Pick one
and
set it up so that it blows off and sounds cools to passers-by at
normal
driving speeds and live with it. If you want one for performance
reasons,
they must be tuned for the style of driving being done.
>
> > 2). The HKS SSBOV replaces the stock BOV but does not blow off
>
> > back into the intake path therefore the possibility of the car
running
> too
> > rich and
> > > possibly stalling in
applications that use 550cc or larger
> injectors is
> > >
possible.
> >
> > Really not a big deal. Really.
This applies to all the BOVs
> listed here.
> > It CAN be tuned
around despite what others may claim. I own the Blitz
> with
>
> the high pressure spring and have zero problems with stumbling when
the
> > throttle is lifted, a symptom of a number of possible
things
> but sometimes
> > attributed to the BOV. Both the
BOV and the fuel computer (whatever you
> are
> > using) need to
be properly tuned in conjunction with your shift
> points and
> >
desired boost levels.
>
> I disagree in this because I had the HKS
on my car and during shifting,
> there was aleways an ultrarich condition
due to the measured air was
> released. Problem got not really recognized
but visible in the
> datalogs. The Greddy Type S solved the
problem.
First of all, if there is no problem, there is no problem.
An engine at
cold start is also terribly rich. Yet it won't start
without that
condition. Close a throttle plate (or slide, or venturi)
and all of a
sudden there is rich, then lean. Completely normal.
If this does not
create a drivability or performance problem, who cares what
the data log
says.
Of course, you may disagree all you like. I
am stating as fact that in my
application there is zero hesitation nor
drivability issues with my SSBOV
setup. Pretty simple. I can
lift, shift and get into it again without lag,
sputtering or
stuttering. Every single time. However, I almost never fully
lift
unless the engine is going to be allowed to idle since there is little
or no
point in doing so during driving. The throttle is a meter and
for
optimal performance should be open in accordance with RPM (gearbox
and
engine) and load.
This issue has come up a number of times over
the last few years, and it is
not limited to the Blitz SSBOV. I have
never experienced drivability issues
with my setup **when it has been
properly tuned**. Other BOVs may be easier
to set up out of the
box. I have seen no evidence whatsoever to support
that one performs
better than any other. If someone has empirical
comparative evidence to
the contrary let's have a look. Until then, much of
this is anecdotal
evidence at best, and yes I recognize that my statements
fall into that
category. However, anyone wishing to see it first hand can
arrange to
do so.
> > > 3). The Greddy Type S BOV replaces the stock BOV
and blows of
> > > back into the intake path similar to the stock
BOV and like the stock
> BOV,
> > has
> > > the
tendency to leak in applications that are running 20 psi or
more.
>
> No, not true. If you need really a stronger spring then
you can
> get it from
> Greddy.
If it doesn't leak why the
need for a stronger spring? See your own
statement above. They
ALL leak at some point, hence the need for stronger
springs. Some leak
sooner than others.
> Roger
Barry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 01:06:48
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Greddy Type S BOV
> Based upon what exactly? I
know several SSBOV installations that work
fine.
> I also know of a
number that do not. I have seen many brands work and the
> same
brands not work. It depends upon how they are installed and how
the
> system is tuned.
This is true, in general all the venting
back solutions work fine. In some
cases adjusting the Blitz to let it run
perfectly is less easier than with
the HKS or Greddy. I also installed one
the customer brought with him and it
works with no adjusting without any
problems ... but car is not above 14
psi.
> > I disagree in this
because I had the HKS on my car and during shifting,
> > there was
aleways an ultrarich condition due to the measured air was
> >
released. Problem got not really recognized but visible in the
> >
datalogs. The Greddy Type S solved the problem.
>
> First of all, if
there is no problem, there is no problem.
I finally decided, that the
dark "puff" after shifting is a problem !
> condition. Close a
throttle plate (or slide, or venturi) and all of a
> sudden there is rich,
then lean. Completely normal. If this does not
> create a
drivability or performance problem, who cares what the data log
>
says.
I do, the lenght of the rich condition got significantly shortened
and the
response was better. Not that it was the world but what I felt was
also
logged.
> Of course, you may disagree all you like. I am
stating as fact that in my
> application there is zero hesitation nor
drivability issues with my SSBOV
> setup. Pretty simple. I can
lift, shift and get into it again without
lag,
Good ... no improvement
necessary !
> If it doesn't leak why the need for a stronger
spring? See your own
> statement above. They ALL leak at some
point, hence the need for stronger
> springs. Some leak sooner than
others.
Well, this is a mechanical statement as it is clear that the area
the
pressure pushes against to is larger than the little vacuum tube from
the
manifold that holds against it. This is why every BOV must have
something
like a rating for the spring. Also if the spring is harder it can
release
the pressure much quicker. This is necessary for higher boost
applications
so the pressure can be relieved much quicker. For anything below
1.5 bars
the stock springs in the Greddy Type S is fine enough. Afterwards,
the Type
R comes in play or just the R spring in the S.
A little
sidenote : if an aftermarket fuel system is used with larger
injectors and
a fuel controller, the "rich"-effect comes more in play. I
recognized
this especially with the ARC setup.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 19:16:54
-0500
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Greddy Type S BOV
Just wondering, Does anyone know how
loud the Greddy Type S BOV is, compared
to the stock BOV when it's routed
back to the intake.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
GTOTLR@cs.comSent: Monday,
January 01, 2001 1:42 AM
To:
stealth@starnet.net;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Re: Greddy Type S BOV
3). The Greddy Type S BOV replaces the
stock BOV and blows of back into the
intake path similar to the stock BOV and
like the stock BOV, has the
tendency
to leak in applications that are
running 20 psi or more.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 19:29:05
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: High Flow Cat?
Ive heard this multiple times from shops all
over the country (and out of
it).
SCC even did a test with a 'high
flow' cat once, and lost 2hp.
*shrug*
A convertor has to have a
certain amount of resistance to flow to work,
because the gasses need to stay
in contact with the catylist for a long
enough period of time to
work.
On Mon, 1 Jan 2001, Barry E. King wrote:
> I asked my
muffler guy about a hi-flow cat a few years back. He said
> "You're
looking at it" and pointed to the stocker. He could sell me Random
>
Technologies and others and make some cash, but he stated, without
>
hesitation, that they don't offer any improvement over a stock one. He
told
> me he'd sell me one if I wanted or if I needed a new one, but other
than
> that there would be zero benefit. *shrug*
>
>
Notice how the flow comparisons offered by these companies are never
against
> a stock cat (at least not the last time I chekced)? I'll
get one when I
> need a replacement, but I don't think I'll bother until
that time. Seems to
> be better places to spend the money.
>
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
>
> > In search of more upgrades to do to my car as of now, i
stumbled upon this
> > site which lists larger flow cats for VR-4s for
$175. What diameter is
> > this? I am going with a 3"
exhaust system to a muffler then two
> > 2.25" outs
> > from
there.
> >
> >
www.discountconverter.com>
>
> > Would that be beneficial, or should I look to another
company - Random
> > Technologies???
> >
> >
-Cody
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 19:24:52
-0800
From: Todd Schmalzried <
q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: clacking noise question
My car was making a funny noise a few
days ago, so I parked it. I think
it was a lifter problem, but it's gone now.
I would like an opinion from
you guys on the list.
History: '94 vr-4
120k miles. flushed oil with "gunk", ran 10-40 dino
oil for ~1000 miles.
parts store was out of 10-30 mobil1, so used 5-30
mobil1 instead, new filter.
Problem: started on christmas vac. trip. at about 600 miles
(Utah,
really cold to us californians) pulled over for gas. when i stopped
at
the pump it started clacking really badly. changed with rpm. assumed
it
was a rod bearing. got a hotel room because I was really frustrated
at
this point. (had a blow out at 300 miles. finished off my bad rim,
and
new tire kept leaking) in the morning I started it up, and the noise
was
gone. turned around and headed home. started ticking again, below
2500
rmp, after about 150 miles. got stuck in LA traffic. now ticking
was
just between 2500 and 3000 rpm. when I got home i played with it.
noise
seemed to be from top end, instead of bottom. hoping it was just
a
sticky lifter which didn't like the thinner oil.
Questions:
Could this be a collapsed/stuck lifter?
Did I do any damage driving with
it this way?
I would appreciate any feedback or opinions from you guys.
Thanks.
Todd
- --
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com Motorola
Network Field Engineering Phone: (619) 933-1700
2121
Palomar Airport Road, Suite 301 Fax: (760)
603-4920
Carlsbad, CA.
92009
Pager:
(888)
694-0222
- -You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
-
-Who gets the change? Think about it. O-
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 21:37:20
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
O2 Sensor
OK, in looking for more stuff for my car, I am in search of a
wideband o2
sensor.
I already have an autometer A/F Ratio gauge, and
its is currently hooked up
to the factory o2 sensor. My car has over
100K miles, and is 7, now almost
8 years old, so I am going to go ahead and
replace the o2 sensor while the
exhaust is getting refinished. I have
read much talk about the factory o2
sensors being not so accurate, so what
are my options?
Autometer sells a o2 sensor, but would it work for the
factory o2 sensor
(and is it a good replacement?) as well as for the
autometer gauge I have???
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 19:43:55
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: O2 Sensor
The OEM is "accurate" as far as the ECU
requires..
A wideband will cost heavy $$$ and offer the ECU no real
improvement in
readings at all.
A few people tried it on thier Supras
and one I know on his GT4
Celica..didnt do anything but cost money. The
A/F guage was "better" but
not so much that they (Supras) could tune in any
extra Hp that was worth
the cost.
On Mon, 1 Jan 2001, cody
wrote:
> OK, in looking for more stuff for my car, I am in search of a
wideband o2
> sensor.
>
> I already have an autometer A/F
Ratio gauge, and its is currently hooked up
> to the factory o2
sensor. My car has over 100K miles, and is 7, now almost
> 8 years
old, so I am going to go ahead and replace the o2 sensor while the
>
exhaust is getting refinished. I have read much talk about the factory
o2
> sensors being not so accurate, so what are my options?
>
> Autometer sells a o2 sensor, but would it work for the factory o2
sensor
> (and is it a good replacement?) as well as for the autometer
gauge I have???
>
> -Cody
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 20:57:27
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: O2
Sensor
A wide band EGO will do absolutely nothing for the performance
or
reliability of the car. The ECU is ONLY interested in cross-counts
from
generally rich to generally lean, roughly 0.5V on a typical O2
sensor. Even
with an off-the-sheld EGO you STILL won't be able to rely
upon it to tune
the car accurately. There are better places to spend
the money.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> OK, in looking for more stuff for my car, I am in
search of a wideband o2
> sensor.
>
> I already have an
autometer A/F Ratio gauge, and its is currently
> hooked up
> to the
factory o2 sensor. My car has over 100K miles, and is 7,
> now
almost
> 8 years old, so I am going to go ahead and replace the o2 sensor
while the
> exhaust is getting refinished. I have read much talk
about the factory o2
> sensors being not so accurate, so what are my
options?
>
> Autometer sells a o2 sensor, but would it work for the
factory o2 sensor
> (and is it a good replacement?) as well as for the
autometer
> gauge I have???
>
> -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 22:07:37
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: O2 Sensor
OK, so EGT sensor then?
-
-Cody
#-----Original Message-----
#From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st#[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Barry E. King
#Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:57 PM
#To:
Team3S
#Subject: RE: Team3S: O2 Sensor
#
#
#A wide band EGO will do
absolutely nothing for the performance or
#reliability of the car. The
ECU is ONLY interested in cross-counts from
#generally rich to generally
lean, roughly 0.5V on a typical O2
#sensor. Even
#with an
off-the-sheld EGO you STILL won't be able to rely upon it to tune
#the car
accurately. There are better places to spend the
money.
#
#
#Barry
#
#> -----Original
Message-----
#>
#> OK, in looking for more stuff for my car, I am in
search of a wideband o2
#> sensor.
#>
#> I already have an
autometer A/F Ratio gauge, and its is currently
#> hooked up
#> to
the factory o2 sensor. My car has over 100K miles, and is 7,
#> now
almost
#> 8 years old, so I am going to go ahead and replace the o2
sensor
#while the
#> exhaust is getting refinished. I have read
much talk about the
#factory o2
#> sensors being not so accurate, so
what are my options?
#>
#> Autometer sells a o2 sensor, but would it
work for the factory o2 sensor
#> (and is it a good replacement?) as well
as for the autometer
#> gauge I have???
#>
#>
-Cody
#
#
#*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
#
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 22:34:42
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Triple Gauge Pod
Where can i find one, or are they even manufactured for
our cars?
I swear I have seen one, but can't find it for the life of me
now...
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 20:39:33
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: O2 Sensor
Ya...EGT is important.
I really like my
Greddy one, very very fast reacting.
On Mon, 1 Jan 2001, cody
wrote:
> OK, so EGT sensor then?
>
> -Cody
>
> #-----Original Message-----
> #From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
#[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Barry E. King
> #Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:57 PM
>
#To: Team3S
> #Subject: RE: Team3S: O2 Sensor
> #
> #
>
#A wide band EGO will do absolutely nothing for the performance or
>
#reliability of the car. The ECU is ONLY interested in cross-counts
from
> #generally rich to generally lean, roughly 0.5V on a typical
O2
> #sensor. Even
> #with an off-the-sheld EGO you STILL
won't be able to rely upon it to tune
> #the car accurately. There
are better places to spend the money.
> #
> #
> #Barry
>
#
> #> -----Original Message-----
> #>
> #> OK, in
looking for more stuff for my car, I am in search of a wideband o2
> #>
sensor.
> #>
> #> I already have an autometer A/F Ratio gauge,
and its is currently
> #> hooked up
> #> to the factory o2
sensor. My car has over 100K miles, and is 7,
> #> now
almost
> #> 8 years old, so I am going to go ahead and replace the o2
sensor
> #while the
> #> exhaust is getting refinished. I
have read much talk about the
> #factory o2
> #> sensors being
not so accurate, so what are my options?
> #>
> #> Autometer
sells a o2 sensor, but would it work for the factory o2 sensor
> #>
(and is it a good replacement?) as well as for the autometer
> #> gauge
I have???
> #>
> #> -Cody
> #
> #
>
#*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> #
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 23:39:26
EST
From:
StevePKT77@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Another O2 Sensor question
OK since we're talking about O2 sensors, I'm
wondering just what goes wrong
when they go bad? My 92 R/T seems to
run rich, but would this be caused by a
bad O2 sensor? Also, when an
O2 sensor goes is there a warning light on the
dashboard like in many other
cars, or do we have to figure it out for
ourselves? Thanks for any
input.
- -Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 20:46:35
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Another O2 Sensor question
It'd be nice to replace every 60K
miles, 100K if youre _really_ on a
budget. Replacing the cat every 100K
can yield a lot of lost power as
well.
A truly screwed sensor can
light up the Chk Eng light, but not a work out
one.
On Mon, 1 Jan 2001
StevePKT77@aol.com wrote:
> OK
since we're talking about O2 sensors, I'm wondering just what goes wrong
> when they go bad? My 92 R/T seems to run rich, but would this be
caused by a
> bad O2 sensor? Also, when an O2 sensor goes is there
a warning light on the
> dashboard like in many other cars, or do we have
to figure it out for
> ourselves? Thanks for any input.
>
-Steve
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 00:37:49
-0500
From: Bill Wagner <
wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: clacking noise question
Todd:
The facts that the noise
comes and goes, is coming from the top end, and
varies with RPM almost always
points to a noisy lash adjuster. A method
described in the service manual is
to SLOWLY rev the car from
idle->3000rpm->idle three times, with each
cycle taking 30 seconds.
Supposedly this will force air trapped in the
adjusters (which is one of
the causes of the noise) to go away .... at least
temporarilly anyway.
I had the lash adjuster problem BAD for about three
years...so bad in
fact I considered getting the adjusters replaced. I thought
the story in
the service manuals about the oil getting aerated by the
crankshaft was
really just some type of bogus excuse Mitsubishi made up to
try to
compensate for a bad design. A friend of mine sells AMSOIL and
he
claimed that there oils wouldn't aerate but Mobil 1 would. I
figured
that I might as well try it since I'd tried many of the other tricks
but
they never seemed to last long (Marvel Mystery Oil and Risolone
with
Mobil 1, using different viscocity's of Mobil 1...these always seemed
to
work for about 1000 miles and then the problem would appear).
I
put in the AMSOIL 10W-30 Turbo Formulated oil and the lash adjuster
noise is
GONE!!!! FINALLY GONE!!!!
I now believe that the aeration explanation
that Mitsu gives in the
service manual is probably correct. I'm also
convinced that the AMSOIL
doesn't aerate as quickly as Mobil 1, if at all.
For what it's worth,
when I was using non-synthetic oils, the noise would
show up immediately
after an oil change. At least with Mobil 1 it would go
away for a while.
Keep in mind that other problems can cause this noise
(sticking or
damaged adjuster) and if this is occuring, it will obviously not
be
fixed by just changing oils.
Good Luck,
Bill
Wagner
Todd Schmalzried wrote:
>
> My car was making a
funny noise a few days ago, so I parked it. I think
> it was a lifter
problem, but it's gone now. I would like an opinion from
> you guys on the
list.
>
> History: '94 vr-4 120k miles. flushed oil with "gunk",
ran 10-40 dino
> oil for ~1000 miles. parts store was out of 10-30 mobil1,
so used 5-30
> mobil1 instead, new filter.
>
> Problem:
started on christmas vac. trip. at about 600 miles (Utah,
> really cold to
us californians) pulled over for gas. when i stopped at
> the pump it
started clacking really badly. changed with rpm. assumed it
> was a rod
bearing. got a hotel room because I was really frustrated at
> this point.
(had a blow out at 300 miles. finished off my bad rim, and
> new tire kept
leaking) in the morning I started it up, and the noise was
> gone. turned
around and headed home. started ticking again, below 2500
> rmp, after
about 150 miles. got stuck in LA traffic. now ticking was
> just between
2500 and 3000 rpm. when I got home i played with it. noise
> seemed to be
from top end, instead of bottom. hoping it was just a
> sticky lifter
which didn't like the thinner oil.
>
> Questions:
> Could
this be a collapsed/stuck lifter?
> Did I do any damage driving with it
this way?
>
> I would appreciate any feedback or opinions from you
guys.
>
> Thanks.
> Todd
>
> --
> Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com> Motorola
Network Field Engineering Phone: (619) 933-1700
> 2121
Palomar Airport Road, Suite 301 Fax: (760) 603-4920
>
Carlsbad, CA.
92009
Pager: (888)
> 694-0222
> -You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a
penny for your thoughts"
> -Who gets the change? Think about it.
O-
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 01:45:53
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Triple Gauge Pod
Cody,
I've never found
one. Might not be made anymore. I ended up buying a
dual- and a
single-gauge A-pillar pod to make my own triple. I even fit it
snug
over the pillar without gauges to see how it would be when driving
(road
racing/AutoX) with my helmet on and assure I don't smack it at all.
Works
fine.
At the First Blue Ridge Gathering this past year I saw at
least one
3000GT with a triple gauge pod on both the driver's and passenger's
side
A-pillars. The passenger's side is harder to see so was used
for
less-important gauges to the driver (maybe intake temp and stuff like
that).
Maybe somebody will come forward that it was their
car. I can't remember
if that was a TT or N/A car as one of the guys
was running nitrous on his NA
so a few gauges could have been for that.
I took some video of it that I
might review if I don't find the picture of
it.
I can give you the part numbers for the single- and
dual-gauge pillar
pods too. Just let me know.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark
plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi -----Original
Message-----
From: cody [
mailto:overclck@flash.net]
Sent:
Monday, January 01, 2001 23:35
Where can i find one, or are they even
manufactured for our cars?
I swear I have seen one, but can't find it for
the life of me now...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 06:28:23
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: High Flow Cat?
Well the ATR "high-flow" cat weighs 10 pounds
less than the stocker
(5 vs. 15). The ATR also has 3" openings versus the
2.37" openings of
the stocker. I could see through the ATR cat; the stocker
was like a
solid block (after 55,000 miles of course). A quick search of the
net
showed that dyno results can be nearly identical for
performance
engines with an open exhaust versus with a cat, with the
right
tuning. While replacing a cat only that is working well is not
worth
it, it is probably a good idea to replace it if the rest of
the
exhaust is being upgraded. $175 seems like a very fair price.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Cc: "Team3S" <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 01, 2001 8:29 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: High Flow
Cat?
Ive heard this multiple times from shops all over the country
(and
out of
it).
SCC even did a test with a 'high flow' cat once,
and lost 2hp.
*shrug*
A convertor has to have a certain amount of
resistance to flow to
work,
because the gasses need to stay in contact
with the catylist for a
long
enough period of time to work.
On Mon,
1 Jan 2001, Barry E. King wrote:
> I asked my muffler guy about a
hi-flow cat a few years back. He
said
> "You're looking at it"
and pointed to the stocker. He could sell
me Random
>
Technologies and others and make some cash, but he stated, without
>
hesitation, that they don't offer any improvement over a stock one.
He
told
> me he'd sell me one if I wanted or if I needed a new one, but
other
than
> that there would be zero benefit. *shrug*
>
> Notice how the flow comparisons offered by these companies are
never
against
> a stock cat (at least not the last time I chekced)? I'll
get one
when I
> need a replacement, but I don't think I'll bother
until that time.
Seems to
> be better places to spend the
money.
>
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> >
> > In search of more upgrades to do to my
car as of now, i stumbled
upon this
> > site which lists larger flow
cats for VR-4s for $175. What
diameter is
> > this? I am
going with a 3" exhaust system to a muffler then two
> > 2.25"
outs
> > from there.
> >
> >
www.discountconverter.com>
>
> > Would that be beneficial, or should I look to another
company -
Random
> > Technologies???
> >
> >
-Cody
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#365
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