team3s
Sunday, December 31
2000 Volume 01
: Number
364
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 30 Dec 2000 17:47:11 -0800
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch fork problem? (links to pics)
I finally got my tranny off and took
pics of the clutch fork. To refresh
your memories, my clutch's engage
point has been steadily moving it's way to
the floor lately, until finally, I
couldn't shift gears anymore. I adjusted
both the pedal height and
booster push rod but the clutch still won't
disengage enough to change
gears. I checked both the master and slave
cylinders, bled them a few
times, and that didn't help the situation. I
even swapped out the
master cylinder with an older one I had lying around
(it was still
good). So I then thought perhaps the clutch fork was bent, so
I finally
pulled the tranny off to look at it. Oh, the clutch I'm using is
the
RPS Stage III clutch and pressure plate, and it's only a few months old
with
only a few thousand relatively easy miles on it.
The clutch fork has a
little bend in it, but it's bent the opposite way I
would have expected it to
be if it failed. There are also no visible cracks
around the
bend. I took some pics of it if any of you think that might
help
determine if the fork has failed or whether something else is
wrong. I'm
running out of ideas now, and I just saw a yellow S2000 that
might find a
new home in my garage if my Stealth keeps breaking like
this.
Here's the pics:
http://shmacker.n3.net/stealth/fork01.jpghttp://shmacker.n3.net/stealth/fork02.jpgI
don't expect anyone to know if the fork failed unless they are very
familiar
with what our forks look like, so this is a longshot but I'm
getting
desparate.
Thanks,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:33:49
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch fork problem? (links to pics)
> The clutch fork has
a little bend in it, but it's bent the
> opposite way I would have
expected it to be if it failed.
> There are also no visible cracks around
the bend.
The clutch fork looks normal to me. If it somehow is
bent, it is bent in
the wrong direction like you mention. I remember
mine being similarly
shaped when I swapped the clutch a month or so
ago.
One thing to watch out for is to not preload the master cylinder
with the
push rod on the clutch pedal. If you screw it out too far, the
engagement
will creep towards the floor and give the symptoms you are
describing. When
I adjust Mitsu clutch pedals I usually shorten the
clutch pushrod, give the
pedal a few pumps and then adjust it longer until
the proper specs are
reached.
A lot of DSM folks have had problems
like you describe due to preloading the
master, inlcuding myself.
Adjusting it back out and then into spec worked
on my car and on
others. Could also be a pressure plate problem also. Make
sure
the surface the throwout bearing rides on has a bit of lithium grease
on it
too, and that the surface is smooth. Check the inner ring of
the
throwout bearing too.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 22:27:16
EST
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: VR-4 calipers on Base?
Ok list members, I have one more question
about brakes. Is it possible to put
the front 4 piston VR-4 calipers on the
front of a naturally aspirated 3000gt?
Since "big reds" would be too
expensive, I was thinking that maybe I could
just put the VR-4 calipers on
instead.
And if this can be done, is it worth doing it?
Thank
you
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In The
United States]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 00:11:51
-0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: VR-4
calipers on Base?
Refer to hans's post on the 3si.org messageboard
regarding his brake
upgrade. He lists parts you will need. You should be able
to fit the brakes
off of a 91-93.5 first gen twin turbo if you have 16" rims.
93.5+ brakes
wouldn't fit. You would need at least 17" rims for
that.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=17801Omar
92
r/t
- -----Original Message-----
From:
AABOMB1@aol.com [
mailto:AABOMB1@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday,
December 30, 2000 10:27 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth-d@stls.verio.net;
stealth@dragnet.comSubject: VR-4
calipers on Base?
Ok list members, I have one more question about
brakes. Is it possible to
put
the front 4 piston VR-4 calipers on the
front of a naturally aspirated
3000gt?
Since "big reds" would be too
expensive, I was thinking that maybe I could
just put the VR-4 calipers on
instead.
And if this can be done, is it worth doing it?
Thank
you
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In The
United States]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 10:34:38
-0500
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rotors and pads
The answer, of course, is "it depends".
It depends on what you're using the car
for. For mostly street use, I
would recommend Porterfield R-4S pads. I've had
great experience with
them for street and mild track use. I'd also recommend the
Porterfield
heat-treated OEM rotors. They can cryo-treat the rotors as well.
I've
heard good things about cryo-treating, but haven't yet tried it myself
(I
will with my next rotor order). And you might as well use some good
hi-temp
fluid such as Ate or Motul. If budget allows, get a good set of
stainless
steel-braided, Teflon-lined brake lines.
If you plan on any
serious track time, you will want to consider a caliper/rotor
upgrade.
But that will exceed three figures.
Personally, I do not recommend
cross-drilled rotors for our cars under any
circumstance.
-
-Steve
'92 VR-4
>
> Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 13:32:12
EST
> From:
AABOMB1@aol.com>
Subject: Team3S: rotors and pads
>
> Hello list
members.
>
> I have a warped rotor, so in a month or two I will be
ordering a new set of
> rotors and pads. I decided I want to just go ahead
and buy the best set
> available. Which rotors would you all recommend?
Any particular pads or just
> the factory?
>
> Please keep in
mind that I need these parts for a *non*turbo and I would like
> to spend
something no higher than in the upper three figures.
>
> I
appreciate it!
>
> '94 3000GT (Naturally Aspirated DOHC)
>
AA
>
> - -------------------
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 14:26:37
-0700
From: "Earthlink" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Question on Boost Gauges
Besides price, what is the difference
between Mechanical and Electronic
Vac/Boost gauge?
Can I use a
Mechanical Gauge or do I have to use an Electronic gauge?
I have bought a
Dual pillar Pod that will hold a 52mm(2 1/16") gauge.
Will I be able to
run the vac hose in the pillar pod into the engine
compartment?
Does
anyone have a step by step instructions for the installation of a boost
gauge
that identifies what hose to tap into to get the gauge
working?
Rgds
Moe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 16:59:17
-0500
From: Rudy Morales <
rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help, car does not start
Hi Rusty, thank you for your
response. I waited to answer
because a friend was coming by today with a
computer/scanner
to look for stored codes.
My friend found no codes
stored and after flooring the gas pedal
(finally I learn what is WOT) and
starting after a while it finally started.
looking at the scanner with
the engine running my friend said that
it was at rich all the time (and he
says it should rich then lean then
rich then lean, etc) he said it probably
is a bad O2 sensor and that
the computer is sending too much gas mixture and
it floods the
engine. He also mentioned an "upstream" O2 and a "downstream"
O2
I showed him the one midway under the car in the exhaust system
and he
said that is probably the "downstream" one.
My question now is: is there
an upstream O2 and is his diagnosis
correct?
is there another condition
that would cause the fuel mixture to
run rich all the time?
Thanks for
your help and time.
Happy New Year!!!
Rudy
At 10:50 AM 12/29/00
-0800, rusty fulton wrote:
>I had a simular thing happen when my timing
belt went
>out. One day I tried to start my '92 stealth and it
>kept
turning and turning, but wouldn't start. The
>dealer told me later that
some of the values had broke
>because of the timing belt, and that was the
reason
>for the lack of startage. At the time, I had just
>bought
the car from a private individual a week
>earlier, and it had 51K miles on
it.
>
>I hope that this isn't the case for you, as it
ended
>up costing me $4000 in repairs. At least I can sleep
>at
night knowing the dodge dealership won't go out of
>business anytime
soon.
>
>--Rusty
>--- Rudy Morales <
rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu> wrote:
>
> My apologies to anyone who feels bothered by this
> > but
>
> I really need some help.
> >
> > I parked my car (91
Stealth ES) in the garage last
> > weekend
> > due to 20
degree weather outside (in NY). When I
> > went to start
> >
it up to go to work on Tuesdays the motor would turn
> > but it
>
> would not start.
> >
> > I thought it might be the fuel
pump since the car
> > hasds120 k miles
> > after looking at
Jeff Lucius page I took the cover
> > off and bang around
> >
the gas tank with a rubber hammer thinking that the
> > vibrations
would
> > loosen the pump and then I would know which part to
>
> change.
> > Nothing happened.
> >
> > In other
cars I have taken out one of the spark plug
> > wires and
> >
getting it close to the engine block I would see if
> > the problem was
there
> > but I was advised against this by a friend that said
>
> it may damage
> > something inside the ignition.
>
>
> > Can anyone offer some suggestions on what to check
>
> or direct me
> > to some web pages to look at. Is there
something
> > known to go wrong
> > eventually with the
ignition system?
> > Thanks in advance for your responses, this is
my
> > daily driver, I need help.
> > Happy New Year to
all.
> > Rudy
> > Rudy Morales
> >
>
>
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do
You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
>
http://photos.yahoo.com/>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
Rudy Morales
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 14:08:09
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help, car does not start
Car should run fine with both O2s
even unplugged..
Hmm.
On Sun, 31 Dec 2000, Rudy Morales
wrote:
> Hi Rusty, thank you for your response. I waited to
answer
> because a friend was coming by today with a
computer/scanner
> to look for stored codes.
>
> My friend
found no codes stored and after flooring the gas pedal
> (finally I learn
what is WOT) and starting after a while it finally started.
>
>
looking at the scanner with the engine running my friend said that
> it
was at rich all the time (and he says it should rich then lean then
> rich
then lean, etc) he said it probably is a bad O2 sensor and that
> the
computer is sending too much gas mixture and it floods the
> engine. He
also mentioned an "upstream" O2 and a "downstream" O2
> I showed him the
one midway under the car in the exhaust system
> and he said that is
probably the "downstream" one.
>
> My question now is: is there an
upstream O2 and is his diagnosis
> correct?
> is there another
condition that would cause the fuel mixture to
> run rich all the
time?
> Thanks for your help and time.
> Happy New Year!!!
>
Rudy
>
> At 10:50 AM 12/29/00 -0800, rusty fulton wrote:
>
>I had a simular thing happen when my timing belt went
> >out. One
day I tried to start my '92 stealth and it
> >kept turning and turning,
but wouldn't start. The
> >dealer told me later that some of the values
had broke
> >because of the timing belt, and that was the
reason
> >for the lack of startage. At the time, I had just
>
>bought the car from a private individual a week
> >earlier, and it
had 51K miles on it.
> >
> >I hope that this isn't the case
for you, as it ended
> >up costing me $4000 in repairs. At least I can
sleep
> >at night knowing the dodge dealership won't go out of
>
>business anytime soon.
> >
> >--Rusty
> >--- Rudy
Morales <
rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
wrote:
> > > My apologies to anyone who feels bothered by
this
> > > but
> > > I really need some help.
>
> >
> > > I parked my car (91 Stealth ES) in the garage
last
> > > weekend
> > > due to 20 degree weather
outside (in NY). When I
> > > went to start
> > > it up
to go to work on Tuesdays the motor would turn
> > > but it
>
> > would not start.
> > >
> > > I thought it
might be the fuel pump since the car
> > > hasds120 k miles
>
> > after looking at Jeff Lucius page I took the cover
> > >
off and bang around
> > > the gas tank with a rubber hammer thinking
that the
> > > vibrations would
> > > loosen the pump
and then I would know which part to
> > > change.
> > >
Nothing happened.
> > >
> > > In other cars I have taken
out one of the spark plug
> > > wires and
> > > getting
it close to the engine block I would see if
> > > the problem was
there
> > > but I was advised against this by a friend that
said
> > > it may damage
> > > something inside the
ignition.
> > >
> > > Can anyone offer some suggestions
on what to check
> > > or direct me
> > > to some web
pages to look at. Is there something
> > > known to go
wrong
> > > eventually with the ignition system?
> > >
Thanks in advance for your responses, this is my
> > > daily driver,
I need help.
> > > Happy New Year to all.
> > >
Rudy
> > > Rudy Morales
> > >
> > >
>
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
>
>__________________________________________________
> >Do You
Yahoo!?
> >Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
>
>
http://photos.yahoo.com/>
>
> >*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> Rudy Morales
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 18:39:33
-0600
From: V8 Killer <
v8killer@compuwise.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question on Boost Gauges
At 02:26 PM 12/31/00 -0700, you
wrote:
>Besides price, what is the difference between Mechanical and
Electronic
>Vac/Boost gauge?
>
>Can I use a Mechanical Gauge
or do I have to use an Electronic gauge?
>
>I have bought a Dual
pillar Pod that will hold a 52mm(2 1/16") gauge.
>
>Will I be able
to run the vac hose in the pillar pod into the
engine
>compartment?
>
>Does anyone have a step by step
instructions for the installation of a boost
>gauge that identifies what
hose to tap into to get the gauge
working?
>
>Rgds
>Moe
>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
Mechanical uses a vac hose that runs all the way from
where you sense boost
pressure (intake manifold) to your gauge (through your
firewall, engine
bay, etc.). This allows a long length of hose that can
get holes, cracks,
etc. that can throw off your boost & you not even know
it.
Electrical has a boost pressure sensor that you place in your engine
near
your intake manifold, run a rubber hose from your intake manifold to
it
(usually about 6-8" away), then the boost pressure sensor runs
an
electrical wire through your engine bay, firewall, up to your boost
gauge.
This is more accurate and a LOT less rubber hose to get
damaged.
You don't have to have an electrical but it sure is a good idea
IMHO.
Later,
Dusty
http://www.MVPmotorsports.com2,500
Performance Parts Online
'94 Supra with Lots of Untuned Goodies
'94
Supra - Can't Make Up Its Mind
http://www.wf.net/~pcguru/supra.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 01:41:50
EST
From:
GTOTLR@cs.comSubject:
Team3S: Re: Greddy Type S BOV
I have been hearing a lot of different
things about BOVs.
1). The Blitz SSBOV utilizes the stock BOV so
it is not ideal for situations
where the problem is "your stock BOV
leaks."
2). The HKS SSBOV replaces the stock BOV but does not blow off back
into the
intake path therefore the possibility of the car running too rich
and
possibly stalling in applications that use 550cc or larger injectors is
possible.
3). The Greddy Type S BOV replaces the stock BOV and blows of
back into the
intake path similar to the stock BOV and like the stock BOV,
has the tendency
to leak in applications that are running 20 psi or
more.
Are these statements true and if so, which BOV is the best to use
in a car
that will soon be running 15G turbos and 550cc
injectors?
Thanks in advance------
Royal K. Watkins III
Senior
Programmer Analyst
Total System Services Inc.
1995 Black 3000GT VR-4
(3SI #210)
2000 Yellow TL1000R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#364
*********************
