team3s
Friday, December 29
2000 Volume 01
: Number
362
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Dec 2000 08:17:26 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
1. If you intend
to get a boost controller of any kind, plan on getting a
real boost gauge to
go along with it: the stock one should be called a
boost
"indicator".
2. You don't need a new y-pipe, although you might check
to make sure the
connections are tight.
3. If you get an electronic
boost controller, you are safer to run high
levels of boost (like 14.7
psi).
4. If you want to be economical, a manual boost controller works
just fine
for 12.5 psi, which is a heck of a lot more than the stock
setting.
5. If you install a diferent BOV, you might have to readjust
your boost
settings. We got about 1 psi more boost after installing the
Eclipse BOV.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
uswest [
SMTP:mprasad01@earthlink.net]
>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 10:38 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
>
>
>
I am thinking about getting a boost controller. I currently have a
K&N
> FIPK
> filter and HKS Turbo catback exhaust. The
next step would be a
> boost controller.
>
> I just put a new
short block and can not effort to put another one in if
> I
>
overboost.
>
> How safe are these boost controllers? How easy are
they to install and
> program? Would I need a BOV before installing the
boost controller? Would
> I
> need a new Y pipe or the stock Y pipe
will do? My plans are not to race
> this
> car but have enough power
just incase it is ever needed.
>
> I have been looking at these two
controllers:
>
> HKS EVC EC Electronic Valve Boost
Controller.
> Apexi AVC-R Turbo Boost Controller.
>
> Please
provide opinions, preference.
>
> Rgds
> Moe
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 08:17:07
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
> I just put a new
short block and can not effort to put
> another one in if I
overboost.
Then you are definitely in the realm of an electronic boost
controller with
alarm/shutdown.
> How safe are these boost
controllers? How easy are they
> to install and program? Would I need a
BOV before
> installing the boost controller? Would I need a new Y
>
pipe or the stock Y pipe will do? My plans are not to
> race this car but
have enough power just incase it
> is ever needed.
Pretty safe if
you get one of the mainstream ones. They each seem to have
their little
quirks as far as getting them set up and dialed-in. I have the
HKS EVC
IV, and the learning mode seems to work sufficiently well, and it
slowly
relearns over time to keep everything as accurate as possible. It
also
has an overboost alarm, back-to-stock-boost on overboost, and overtake
boost
where you can set it to a higher boost level for a settable time
period when
you press the overtake button (so you could set 13 psi for your
"normal"
driving and 15 psi for when you need to "teach someone a lesson").
> I
have been looking at these two controllers:
> HKS EVC EC Electronic Valve
Boost Controller.
> Apexi AVC-R Turbo Boost Controller.
If you are
going to go HKS, go all the way to the EVC IV. The EVC EZ
doesn't have
the safeties and has no fuzzy logic, so it may
overboost/underboost some
depending on atmospheric conditions at the time.
Apexi makes great
products too, but I don't have firsthand experience with
them. I have a
few friends who have the Indiglo Super AVC-R who like it a
lot. There's
TONS of information on boost controllers in the archives.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 09:10:45
-0800
From: vect0r0 <
vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: *FOR-SALE* HKS VPC + HKS Dual Powerflow Intake
I will soon have
for sale:
HKS VPC Fuel Control Unit + CA Version 550CC
Chip, CA Version (Extra
LEAN) 550CC Chip, 49-State 550CC
Chip.
HKS Dual Powerflow Intake for use with the VPC
(Dual mushroom design
+ Mounting Hardware)
These items are
approximately 1.5-2.0 years old. These two items are
used when you want
to upgrade to larger turbos/injectors/pump to negate
the stock computer's
control over fuel functions (avoids stock
fuel-cut.)
I believe I paid
around $1500 - $1600 for the whole package. Best offer
takes 'em
both.
Thanks for reading.
John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 10:51:20
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
How hard is the
installation of an electric boost controller vs. a bleeder
valve? The
bleeder valve looks to be very easy so I'm guessing the electric
will be
harder...but how much harder?
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Jannusch, Matt [
mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 6:17 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
>
>
> > I just put a new short block and can not effort to put
>
> another one in if I overboost.
>
> Then you are definitely in
the realm of an electronic boost
> controller with
>
alarm/shutdown.
>
> > How safe are these boost controllers? How
easy are they
> > to install and program? Would I need a BOV
before
> > installing the boost controller? Would I need a new
Y
> > pipe or the stock Y pipe will do? My plans are not to
>
> race this car but have enough power just incase it
> > is ever
needed.
>
> Pretty safe if you get one of the mainstream
ones. They each
> seem to have
> their little quirks as far
as getting them set up and
> dialed-in. I have the
> HKS EVC
IV, and the learning mode seems to work sufficiently
> well, and
it
> slowly relearns over time to keep everything as accurate as
>
possible. It
> also has an overboost alarm, back-to-stock-boost on
> overboost, and overtake
> boost where you can set it to a higher
boost level for a settable time
> period when you press the overtake
button (so you could set
> 13 psi for your
> "normal" driving and
15 psi for when you need to "teach
> someone a lesson").
>
>
> I have been looking at these two controllers:
> > HKS EVC EC
Electronic Valve Boost Controller.
> > Apexi AVC-R Turbo Boost
Controller.
>
> If you are going to go HKS, go all the way to the
EVC IV. The EVC EZ
> doesn't have the safeties and has no fuzzy
logic, so it may
> overboost/underboost some depending on atmospheric
conditions
> at the time.
>
> Apexi makes great products
too, but I don't have firsthand
> experience with
> them. I
have a few friends who have the Indiglo Super AVC-R
> who like it
a
> lot. There's TONS of information on boost controllers in the
> archives.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 13:13:19
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
We followed instructions
that my son downloaded, I think it was from Roger,
to install a dual solenoid
boost controller. It took us about four hours if
I recall, but we were
going reallly slowly: it's really more like a 2 hour
job. The manual
boost controller is REAL easy to install, like 30 minutes,
but remember in
either case you want to add the time required to install the
boost
gauge. That's more like four hours the first time depending on
how
you decide to mount it (we used an a-pillar mount) and whether you
are
wiring it into the instrument lights (we did). None of this
is rocket
science - just following instructions (carefully).
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geddes, Brian J [
SMTP:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 12:51 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
>
> How
hard is the installation of an electric boost controller vs. a bleeder
>
valve? The bleeder valve looks to be very easy so I'm guessing the
>
electric
> will be harder...but how much harder?
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 14:46:24
-0500
From: "wbuckingham" <
wbuckingham@dmci.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
The Apexi AVC-R takes 4
hours to install if you have never done it or if you
do not know what you are
doing, this is primarily due to the fact that the
manual is very poor.
Once you have installed one of these, it is quite
simple, maybe 2
hours. If you can have a friend who has installed one of
these help
you, it goes much smoother. I can send you some tech notes from
my
installation, as well as a jpg file of the vacuum line hookup if you
are
interested.
Bill #0438
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]
On Behalf Of Geddes, Brian J
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 1:51 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
How hard is the
installation of an electric boost controller vs. a bleeder
valve? The
bleeder valve looks to be very easy so I'm guessing the electric
will be
harder...but how much harder?
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Jannusch, Matt [
mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 6:17 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost
controller
>
>
> > I just put a new short block and can not
effort to put
> > another one in if I overboost.
>
> Then
you are definitely in the realm of an electronic boost
> controller
with
> alarm/shutdown.
>
> > How safe are these boost
controllers? How easy are they
> > to install and program? Would I need
a BOV before
> > installing the boost controller? Would I need a new
Y
> > pipe or the stock Y pipe will do? My plans are not to
>
> race this car but have enough power just incase it
> > is ever
needed.
>
> Pretty safe if you get one of the mainstream ones.
They each
> seem to have
> their little quirks as far as getting
them set up and
> dialed-in. I have the
> HKS EVC IV, and the
learning mode seems to work sufficiently
> well, and it
> slowly
relearns over time to keep everything as accurate as
> possible.
It
> also has an overboost alarm, back-to-stock-boost on
>
overboost, and overtake
> boost where you can set it to a higher boost
level for a settable time
> period when you press the overtake button (so
you could set
> 13 psi for your
> "normal" driving and 15 psi for
when you need to "teach
> someone a lesson").
>
> > I have
been looking at these two controllers:
> > HKS EVC EC Electronic Valve
Boost Controller.
> > Apexi AVC-R Turbo Boost
Controller.
>
> If you are going to go HKS, go all the way to the
EVC IV. The EVC EZ
> doesn't have the safeties and has no fuzzy
logic, so it may
> overboost/underboost some depending on atmospheric
conditions
> at the time.
>
> Apexi makes great products too,
but I don't have firsthand
> experience with
> them. I have a
few friends who have the Indiglo Super AVC-R
> who like it a
>
lot. There's TONS of information on boost controllers in the
>
archives.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 21:36:51
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Base->SL Conversion
I'm looking to convert my base model car
to an SL... or to be more exact, I want to drop the DOHC engine into my
SL. I've shopped around and found that I can get the DOHC engine for about
$800, which doesn't sound too bad to me. If anyone knows if I can get a
better deal I'd like to know, but I can't say that sounds bad to me. I
know that the VR-4 engine, though almost identical to the SL engine, needs a lot
more parts, you can't just drop the engine in, at least this is what I've
heard. Can anyone tell me if this is true? If so, will I need more
parts to drop the SL engine in? It's my understanding after reading a
great deal of FAQs that the base and SL were the same car from 1991-1994 and
that there is no difference in the parts between the base and SL cars in 95+
except for the engine. I'd appreciate it if anyone could verify this for
me or tell me if there are indeed other parts I'll need to swap out. If
anyone else has already performed this conversion, or is al!
so
interested in performing it, I'd like to hear... I did hear that someone
performed a base to VR-4 conversion. I wouldn't mind hearing from them
too. Thanks for any feed back.
John
1997 3000GT
Get your
free e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.com/eyelandreg.jspSend
& receive large files with 100MB of storage
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 15:51:51
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Base->SL Conversion
> If so, will I need more parts to
drop the SL engine in?
> It's my understanding after reading a great deal
of FAQs
> that the base and SL were the same car from 1991-1994
>
and that there is no difference in the parts between
> the base and SL
cars in 95+ except for the engine. I'd
> appreciate it if anyone
could verify this for me or
> tell me if there are indeed other parts I'll
need to
> swap out.
If I had to make a guess, I'd say you probably
need a wiring harness and ECU
to go along with it. Doesn't the base
model have a distributor setup and
the SL the coil-pack system? That
would make the ECU and wiring harnesses
different for sure. 3.0L SL
motor probably has different fuel injection
than the base motor.
There's also the variable intake gizmo on the intake
manifold of the SL that
you'll want to hook up also (manifold probably not
included with a
motor). Throttle body, possibly exhaust manifolds. There
might
also be differences with the accessories (alternator, etc.) that you'd
want
to check out as well.
Rarely do different engines just "bolt in" these
days.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 17:42:00
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3si member passes away.
One of my good (best?) friends, which I
met solely through this group
of people on these two lists, passed away day
before yesterday. I
guess life just got to him, and no one saw the signs, and
if they did,
they didn't think it was really that bad. He passed away
peacefully as
far as I know. It's hard for me to write this stuff, because I
have
never done so.
3/S CD's and Curestrip shipments may be delayed a
bit, until stuff
settles down... anyway, here is some info if you are in the
area, and
you knew Mike, his mother does not really know who his friends
were,
since so many of them were on the internet, and associated with
3/S
stuff. If the team3s list cannot handle a non-technical post...
at
this point, I don't care.
To all of Mikes friends, here is the info
I just recieved from Mike
Murray's mother (Caroline). She and her family
would be grateful to
have his friends around. I don't know how to write this
stuff 'cause
it sucks... sucks ass.
1pm = service
visitation =
2pm-8pm
Sat 30th, Dec.
Drake & Son Funeral Home
5303
Northwestern Ave
Chicago IL
1-773-5616874
Vineet Singh
:(
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 15:59:43
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin: Condolences...
So sad to hear of your loss, Vineet - this
kind of news touches the
entire 3S community. It's especially hard to
deal with when it occurs
around the holidays. We should all take pause,
in his memory...
Our sincerest condolences to Mike Murray's
family.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 10:02:47
-0500
From: Rudy Morales <
rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Help, car does not start
My apologies to anyone who feels
bothered by this but
I really need some help.
I parked my car (91
Stealth ES) in the garage last weekend
due to 20 degree weather outside (in
NY). When I went to start
it up to go to work on Tuesdays the motor would
turn but it
would not start.
I thought it might be the fuel pump since
the car hasds120 k miles
after looking at Jeff Lucius page I took the cover
off and bang around
the gas tank with a rubber hammer thinking that the
vibrations would
loosen the pump and then I would know which part to
change.
Nothing happened.
In other cars I have taken out one of the
spark plug wires and
getting it close to the engine block I would see if the
problem was there
but I was advised against this by a friend that said it may
damage
something inside the ignition.
Can anyone offer some
suggestions on what to check or direct me
to some web pages to look at.
Is there something known to go wrong
eventually with the ignition
system?
Thanks in advance for your responses, this is my daily driver, I need
help.
Happy New Year to all.
Rudy
Rudy Morales
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#362
*********************