team3s Wednesday,
December 27 2000 Volume 01
: Number
361
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Dec 2000 15:12:28 -0800
From: "Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: transmission rebuild
Hello everyone,
I just got call back from
AAMCO and they told me that my automatic
transmission will most likely need
to be rebuilt. The price estimate they
gave me was around $2,000. Does this
seem right? (BTW I have a base '92
Dodge Stealth)The reason I took it in was
that my car whenever I would slow
down to 20mph my car would jerk, then again
at 5mph. Do you guys have any
advice? Thanks in advance!
Best
regards
Dusan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 16:51:54
EST
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Re: White smoke 94 3000gt Base
>I remember a short time ago
someone saying ther're 95 was giving off
>white smoke after idling for a
little while yet when you drive it
>doesn't do anything unless it's been
alowed to idle first. My friends 94
>is the same way so please let me know
if you find anything! Thanks!
Doesn't coolant give off white smoke? It
also kind of smells "sweet".
Your friend may have a blown head gasket if
it's coolant burning.
'94 3000GT NA/DOHC
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In The
United States]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 17:41:38
-0600
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Nippondenso injectors
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger
Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
>
Are there ANY 720cc used in DSMs ??
Funny thing that it has escaped you
that there are dozens of DSMs in the
9's, 10's and 11's.
(the fact that
they need fuel to get there is likely obvious to you.)
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 21:20:13
EST
From:
Petrosvr4@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
transmission rebuild
The Mitsu dealer rebuild my transmission for $1700,
it was covered under the
extended warranty. The local AAMCO shop quote me
$1150, put i took it to the
dealer anyway.
petros
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 07:37:49
-0800
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Burning smell from my VR4
Over the last couple of weeks I've noticed a
burning smell coming from my
VR4 after I drive it. I've been careful to keep
an eye on the Oil and
Radiator fluid, and they both appear to be fine. A
friend of mine thinks it
may be a small oil leak somewhere that is dripping
on something hot. I'll
get the burning smell even when I'm careful not to use
the turbos. Any
ideas?
- -MM
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 10:02:49
-0600
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Burning smell from my VR4
> Radiator fluid, and they both
appear to be fine. A friend of mine thinks it
> may be a small oil leak
somewhere that is dripping on something hot. I'll
When changing my oil
once, I spilled a fair amount of the new oil
on the front turbo heat shield
as I was pouring it. I wiped up most of
it, but the car smelled faintly of
burning oil for a about a week. Did
you do the same thing?
Walton
C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 10:15:16
-0600
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Nippondenso injectors
Roger, I fear that it is futile to get into a
discussion with you on this
subject, but...
I don't understand your
reasoning. For some reason you questioned the use
of 720cc injectors in
the DSMs. My response, obviously to the list as your
statement went to
the list, suggested that 720cc injectors could conceivably
be used in a
DSM. Now you're complicating matters a great deal by pointing
out the
obvious fact that larger injector are also used by some. I think
this
is irrelevant to this topic.
Let's bring this thread back on track.
720cc injectors are used in the DSM
application. Noble asked this
simple question: "Does anyone know if the
Nippondenso 720's used for our cars
is the EXACT same ones used in the
DSM's?"
I'm not in a position to answer
this. It appears that you don't know
either. Maybe someone else
will step forward as long as this thread is not
distorted.
I'm
bringing this discussion back to the list as I think it belongs there.
As for
your comment about list etiquette - I think you will do the list a
favor by
not challenging every statement made, but rather hold your breath
when you're
not able to offer answers to the questions asked on this list.
Best
Regards and Happy Holidays to all!
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: "Oskar"
<
osk@mediaone.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 27, 2000 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Nippondenso
injectors
> > Funny thing that it has escaped you that there
are dozens of DSMs in the
> > 9's, 10's and 11's.
> > (the
fact that they need fuel to get there is likely obvious to you.)
>
>
They often use larger, 840cc Bosch, 860cc Denso ... up to 1040cc from
RC.
> Now calculate the possible power off 4 720cc and you will see that
it is
not
> enough to get into the 10s. Also you will find a highly
increased fuel
> pressure in these cars that run the injectors far out of
their patterns
but
> will then provide the appropriate
fuel.
>
> In general, such comments should be made privately and NOT
to the list.
>
> Cheers
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 10:25:50
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Nippondenso injectors
> Let's bring this thread back
on track. 720cc injectors are
> used in the DSM application.
Noble asked this simple
> question: "Does anyone know if the Nippondenso
720's used
> for our cars is the EXACT same ones used in the
DSM's?"
The 720's used on DSM cars should be the same ones we are using
on 3/S cars.
The 550's used on both as upgrades are the same, so
theoretically (since I
haven't done the 720's on either my DSM or my 3/S,
only 550's) they should
fit. Electrically they are compatible for
sure. The physical fit would be
the only variable, but I can tell you
that the fuel rails on DSM and 3/S are
nearly identical in design and that
the stock DSM injectors also fit on 3/S
without modification. Anything
that fits the DSM stock fuel rails should*
also fit the 3/S stock fuel
rails.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 08:42:04
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Burning smell from my VR4
Oil cap probly leaking just a hair,
and it falls onto the front exhaust
manifold.
Mitsu oil caps
_suck_.
On Wed, 27 Dec 2000, Sandie Morrison wrote:
> Over the
last couple of weeks I've noticed a burning smell coming from my
> VR4
after I drive it. I've been careful to keep an eye on the Oil and
>
Radiator fluid, and they both appear to be fine. A friend of mine thinks
it
> may be a small oil leak somewhere that is dripping on something hot.
I'll
> get the burning smell even when I'm careful not to use the turbos.
Any
> ideas?
>
> -MM
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 08:44:40
-0800
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Burning smell from my VR4
I'll check into that and the oil cap idea.
Thanks!
- -MM
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Walton C. Gibson
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 8:03 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Burning smell from my VR4
> Radiator fluid, and they
both appear to be fine. A friend of mine thinks
it
> may be a small oil
leak somewhere that is dripping on something hot. I'll
When changing my
oil once, I spilled a fair amount of the new oil
on the front turbo heat
shield as I was pouring it. I wiped up most of
it, but the car smelled
faintly of burning oil for a about a week. Did
you do the same
thing?
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:17:33
-0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Burning smell from my VR4
I have a no-leak-tight aftermarket oil
cap, and I know
for certain that it doesn't leak. I have the
burned
oil smell too. My shop said I need a oil catch can..
anyone
have an idea what oil leak is the catch can
suppose to catch? and from
where??
Thanks,
George
- --- Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
wrote:
> Oil cap probly leaking just a hair, and it falls
> onto the
front exhaust
> manifold.
>
> Mitsu oil caps _suck_.
>
> On Wed, 27 Dec 2000, Sandie Morrison wrote:
>
> > Over
the last couple of weeks I've noticed a
> burning smell coming from
my
> > VR4 after I drive it. I've been careful to keep an
> eye
on the Oil and
> > Radiator fluid, and they both appear to be fine.
A
> friend of mine thinks it
> > may be a small oil leak
somewhere that is dripping
> on something hot. I'll
> > get the
burning smell even when I'm careful not to
> use the turbos. Any
>
> ideas?
> >
> > -MM
> >
> >
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
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Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:45:04
-0800
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Burning smell from my VR4
Hmm, hard to describe. If you have the Windows
Olfactory Player installed, I
can email you a sample... ;)
I would say
that the smell is very bad. Almost like burned rubber.
- -MM
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg S. [
mailto:wizards@mhtc.net]
Sent: Wednesday,
December 27, 2000 9:19 AM
To:
sandie@netst.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Burning smell from my VR4
What does it smell like? That
can make all the difference in the world to
getting to the right
answer.
Greg
Sandie Morrison wrote:
> Over the
last couple of weeks I've noticed a burning smell coming from my
> VR4
after I drive it. I've been careful to keep an eye on the Oil and
>
Radiator fluid, and they both appear to be fine. A friend of mine
thinks
it
> may be a small oil leak somewhere that is dripping on
something hot. I'll
> get the burning smell even when I'm careful not to
use the turbos. Any
> ideas?
>
> -MM
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 12:04:06
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Burning smell from my VR4
If it smells like burned rubber,
look for burned rubber. Try looking at the
REAR turbo. There are
a lot of hoses that run along the firewall there and
can get loose and touch
the turbo heat shield. You can also look for
discoloration (more than
usual) on the turbo heat shields as a clue to what
is stinking up the
works.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sandie Morrison [
SMTP:sandie@netst.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, December 27, 2000 11:45 AM
> To: Greg S.
> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Burning smell from my VR4
>
> Hmm, hard to
describe. If you have the Windows Olfactory Player installed,
> I
>
can email you a sample... ;)
>
> I would say that the smell is very
bad. Almost like burned rubber.
>
> -MM
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Greg S. [
mailto:wizards@mhtc.net]
> Sent:
Wednesday, December 27, 2000 9:19 AM
> To:
sandie@netst.com> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Burning smell from my VR4
>
>
> What does it smell
like? That can make all the difference in the world
>
to
> getting to the right answer.
>
> Greg
>
>
>
> Sandie Morrison wrote:
>
> > Over the last
couple of weeks I've noticed a burning smell coming from
> my
> >
VR4 after I drive it. I've been careful to keep an eye on the Oil and
>
> Radiator fluid, and they both appear to be fine. A friend of mine
thinks
> it
> > may be a small oil leak somewhere that is
dripping on something hot.
> I'll
> > get the burning smell even
when I'm careful not to use the turbos. Any
> > ideas?
>
>
> > -MM
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:04:37
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fluids and rubber
Seeing as how the temperature here in Montana
is usually pretty low, I think
that the 0W-30 should work pretty well.
However, I'm no petroleum engineer
and will at least work my way back
up to 10W-30 for the summer months. It
sure starts nice and
easy...
Yeah, that door sticker is very confusing. I've got the factory
18" wheels.
I have no idea what the previous owner was thinking with the
265/35ZR18 on
the rear. They probably weren't thinking... Anyway, in Denver,
I got the
only tires I could find that would fit the rims, trading in the 2
265 tires
for 4 same sized new ones. They are 225/40ZR18. They are about .5
inch
narrower than the 245. My snow tires haven't shown up yet, which are to
be
245/40ZR17 Pirelli Snow 210 on Mille Spider rims.
Thanks to
everybody for their input on tires and power steering fluid.
How
difficult is changing the transaxle, transfer case, and differential
fluids?
I have the synthetic 75W-90 ready to go.
My glovebox is stuck shut. The
lock is broken so that the key will turn it
either to the vertical or
horizontal position; pressing the buttons together
does nothing. Any advice
before I take the drill or slide hammer to the
lock?
I'm missing the 6
pack CD cassette for the changer. Anybody know what brand
the stock CD
changer is? Pioneer is my first guess but it is only a guess...
I'm
letting the engine idle for 60 seconds or so when I get where I'm going
to
let the turbos cool down. I haven't been downshifting using engine
braking.
Any other tid bits I might follow to help prolong the life of
this
car?
- --
Paul/.
95 black VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum
hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 12:23:07
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fluids and rubber
> How difficult is changing the
transaxle, transfer case, and
> differential fluids? I have the synthetic
75W-90 ready to go.
Pretty easy, but you'll want to have some sort of
little fluid pump or at a
minimum a long hose on a funnel to fill the
cases. Make sure you use a GL-4
rated fluid in the transfer case.
If you bought Mobil-One synthetic, don't
use it - it will eat the coating off
the synchro rings in the transmission.
I personally use BG Synchroshift
in the transaxle, Redline Shockproof Heavy
in the transfer case, and the
factory gear lube in the rear diff.
> My glovebox is stuck shut. The
lock is broken so that the key
> will turn it either to the vertical or
horizontal position;
> pressing the buttons together does nothing. Any
advice
> before I take the drill or slide hammer to the lock?
I
forget who had this problem, but there was some talk about it maybe a
couple
months ago. Check out the archives and see what you find in
there...
There were a couple approaches to getting the door open.
>
I'm missing the 6 pack CD cassette for the changer. Anybody
> know what
brand the stock CD changer is? Pioneer is my
> first guess but it is only
a guess...
Pioneer 6-disc cartridges work fine. The ones where you
load them with the
disc label upside-down. I don't know if Pioneer
still uses that style
cartridge.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 12:37:14
-0600
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fluids and rubber
> I'm missing the 6 pack CD cassette for the
changer. Anybody know what brand
> the stock CD changer is? Pioneer is my
first guess but it is only a guess...
Pioneer cartridges. Best Buy sells
them I know, since I went there
and bought three or four more of them. I
even saw one package
where you buy three and get a red, blue and green
colored one.
Kind of a change from the
black.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:52:04
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fluids and rubber
Do we know what model this Pioneer CD changer
is?
Colored ones sound great!
- --
Paul/.
95 black
VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
on 12/27/00 11:37, Walton C. Gibson at
kalla@tripoint.org
scribbled:
>> I'm missing the 6 pack CD cassette for the changer.
Anybody know what brand
>> the stock CD changer is? Pioneer is my first
guess but it is only a guess...
>
> Pioneer cartridges. Best Buy
sells them I know, since I went there
> and bought three or four more of
them. I even saw one package
> where you buy three and get a red, blue and
green colored one.
> Kind of a change from the black.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:57:31
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fluids and rubber
- --------
+> My glovebox is stuck
shut. The lock is broken so that the key will turn it
+> either to the
vertical or horizontal position; pressing the buttons together
+> does
nothing. Any advice before I take the drill or slide hammer to the
+>
lock?
this happened to me a couple monthes ago. you have two
choices:
carefully pry the top edge of the glovebox door open
about an inch, and
use a hacksaw to cut the U-latch. have to cut both
posts. I used a
"sharp" flat-blade screwdriver as a chisel to break
them apart, but I'd
definately try the hacksaw method if it happened again.
the other choice is to drill, pull, or in some manner destroy the lock
cylinder. the problem with this, is it won't release the latch
unless
you can actually see the connecting rod and somehow manipulate it
to
pop the mechanism.
don't waste your time trying to "jimmy"
the latch. the mechanism is well
covered.
I can send you
pictures if you'd like to see the guts of it. (the manual
doesn't show
it very well.)
+>
+> I'm missing the 6 pack CD cassette for
the changer. Anybody know what brand
+> the stock CD changer is? Pioneer
is my first guess but it is only a guess...
Pioneer it is, but there are
a number of styles. I'm pretty sure Best Buy
has the correct
ones.
+> I'm letting the engine idle for 60 seconds or so when I get
where I'm going
+> to let the turbos cool down. I haven't been
downshifting using engine
+> braking. Any other tid bits I might follow to
help prolong the life of this
+> car?
yeah, ride the 2 wheeler more
often.. ;) I'm jealous..
I've owned 6 earlier
VFRs, but I've been wanting a FI VFR ever since they
came out..
+> Paul/.
+> 95 black VR-4
+> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
+> formerly reasonable and prudent
as cartman would say,
swwweeeeeet . :)
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black
3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 12:10:30
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fluids and rubber
I suppose hacksaw will be the method of
choice. Darn, as I really wanted to
use the slide hammer!;-)
If you
have the images handy Dave, I'll certainly be most grateful to
examine them.
Any idea of what the replacement parts cost?
LOL RE: advice to ride 2
wheeler more often!!! I'd love to but the studded
snow tires I ordered for
the VFR have never arrived.;-)
Having the VFR and the VR-4 both in the
garage is a real treat. The trick
will be affording all the toys! I can
highly recommend the VFR800. I too
owned various other VFRs but this one
takes the cake.
Thanks to all for the valuable input! Having this car and
not having this
list to lean on would be a real nightmare...
- --
Paul/.
95 black VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly
reasonable and prudent
on 12/27/00 11:57, Dave Monarchi at
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU
scribbled:
> +> braking. Any other tid bits I might follow to help
prolong the life of this
> +> car?
>
> yeah, ride the 2
wheeler more often.. ;) I'm jealous..
>
> I've
owned 6 earlier VFRs, but I've been wanting a FI VFR ever since they
>
came out..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 12:33:09
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fluids and rubber
- --------
+> I suppose hacksaw
will be the method of choice. Darn, as I really wanted to
+> use the slide
hammer!;-)
+>
+> If you have the images handy Dave, I'll certainly
be most grateful to
+> examine them. Any idea of what the replacement
parts cost?
I can't remember if I actually took pics when I took it out,
but *sigh*
it's _still_ out so I can easily take a few with the digital and
send
them to you. I'll check when I get home tonight.
I think
the latch is about $5-6 and the lock is $35-40. check the
dealerships
that give us discounts, and it might be less. btw, another
reason to
not drill out the lock, is you can swap the lock cylinder
to the new
mechanism so you won't have an additional key to deal with.
the piece that
breaks is this stupid little plastic tab on a ring
around the
cylinder. the rest of the mechanism is probably fine.
good
luck!
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
=
87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 21:38:09
-0700
From: "uswest" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Need suggestions on Boost controller
I am thinking about getting
a boost controller. I currently have a K&N FIPK
filter and HKS
Turbo catback exhaust. The next step would be a
boost
controller.
I just put a new short block and can not effort to put
another one in if I
overboost.
How safe are these boost
controllers? How easy are they to install and
program? Would I need a BOV
before installing the boost controller? Would I
need a new Y pipe or the
stock Y pipe will do? My plans are not to race this
car but have enough power
just incase it is ever needed.
I have been looking at these two
controllers:
HKS EVC EC Electronic Valve Boost Controller.
Apexi AVC-R
Turbo Boost Controller.
Please provide opinions,
preference.
Rgds
Moe
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#361
*********************