team3s
Wednesday, December 20
2000 Volume 01 : Number
357
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Dec 2000 08:40:17 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Calipers
Please be more specific. Have you
removed the calipers completely from the
vehicle, or are they just hanging by
the brake line?
I am in the process of rebuilding another extra set of
front calipers. I
just rebuilt the rear ones. The usual grime can be
removed using brake parts
cleaner in a spray can. Some really strong
degreasers can adversely affect
the rubber dust boots on the pistons, but if
you are replacing them, who
cares? You can use a scotch-brite pad to
scrub the caliper to help the
solvent work. You can get these pads at most
grocery stores or home depot.
Rust on the outside body of the caliper
probably won't make any difference
in function, with the possible exception
of the 1st generation floating rear
calipers. If the scotchbrite pad doesn't
work, escalate to a wire brush in a
drill.
I got my brother-in-law to
repaint my calipers at his coating plant. I
think any high temperature
paint would work, like the kind you use on
barbeque pits. Then, I
repainted the "Mitsubishi" with gold paint.
If you are talking about
corrosion on the pistons, stick with the
scotchbrote pad. If that
doesn't work, buy new pistons - they're not
that
expensive.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Kdog109SD@aol.com [SMTP:Kdog109SD@aol.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, December 20, 2000 4:46 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: Team3S: Brake Calipers
>
> Can someone give me tips on
cleaning the brake calipers. Also I have some
>
> rust around
the outside of the calipers how do i get rid of that?
>
> Kunal
S.
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 16:48:21
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: fuel/ignition computer
>personally have not installed
one of these units but i am sure by the end of
>winter i will. i also have
been very happy with the quality of all the APEXi
>stuff i have installed
and recommend APEXi quite often. if you are building a
>daily driver that
you feel needs the tuning capability of a stand-alone then
>i think the
Power FC would be your ideal choice. good luck.
According to APEXi they
will make one for the Integras, Eclipses, RXs and
Nissans. The 6 cyl Mitsus
are not supported. So I really look forward that
they amy bring a prototype
for our cars and would liek to see how it may
perform.
BTW, questions
APEXi couldn't answer :
- - Does it eliminate the MAS ?
- - How big can
the injectors be ?
- - Can it log the knock sensor
- - Does it handle
boost and ignition upon the activity of the knock sensor
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 12:17:55
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Aftermarket in-dash gages
Hello
I'm in process with my winter
rebuild on my TT, and have been desiring
some high accuracy aftermarket
gauges to replace the three in the dash
cluster. That would be boost,
oil pressure, and coolant temp.
Anyone have any suggestions?
I would like
white faces, which I think is easy to get, but that's not
my
focus.
Boost - I would like a much more accurate gage - I will be getting
a
Apexi BC sometime soon but would still like to have something
accurate,
that is good even in the vacuum range? Are there any
non-electrical
types maybe?
Oil pressure - the stock one is just too
lame. It never seems to move
much between idle and WOT.
Coolant
- maybe the stock _type_ is ok, but with a fully accurate
digital
readout?
Ok, any and all suggestions welcome, thanks so much!
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 09:24:44
-0800
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Here's what the application guide at
Eibach.com says.....
3000 GT, Base model, 2WD
(Exc. '95> w/
electric sunroof) 1991 2000
3000 GT VR4, AWD
(Exc. Spyder & '95>
with sunroof) 1991 2000
3000 GT/SL, 2WD
(Exc. Base model & '95>
w/sunroof) 1991 2000
Although I can't say I understand what they mean....
It looks as though the
only cars affected are years less than 95 with
sunroof?!? Still not clear...
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric
Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
To:
"Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>;
"'cody'"
<overclck@flash.net>;
"Team3S" <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, December 18, 2000 6:35 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit
Springs
> Just to clarify ... those of us searching for the
solution do not have the
> Active Suspension (ECS) so we are trying to get
stiffer springs and
> adjustable shocks. This most likely means a
coilover system with 4- or
> 8-way (or more) adjustable
shocks.
>
> H&R was a prototype spring used and possibly
GABs. Obviously the higher
> price components (Tokico, Tein, etc.)
may fit or may be custom-made for
each
> application but we were trying
not to go for broke and keep the price
> reasonable. With about 10
people we might be able to get a discount, but
as
> mentioned, we
already get some great deals from places with our current
>
discount.
>
> --Flash!
> dschilberg@freemarkets.com
>
>
3Si #577
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a
custom spark plug
> plate
> http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg
>
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Schilberg, Darren [mailto:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 9:32 AM
> To: 'cody'; Team3S
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit Springs
>
> WARNING: If you have
a 1995+ VR-4 with an automatic sunroof (not sure
about
> Stealths) then
there is absolutely no aftermarket spring that will fit
your
>
car. You will have to custom-order a set to have them fit.
>
>
We have had a small band of individuals trying to solve this problem and
>
install some prototypes from H&R to see if these work. There is a
small
> perch that interferes with the spring when the car has an
automatic
sunroof.
>
> We will send an update to the list when
all questions have been answered.
>
> As for answering the question
- it is a matter of personal preference. If
> you want stock ride
height and lowering capabilities then a coilover
system
> is
suggested. If you just wanna drop it then springs are the best
bang
for
> the buck. I think rough estimates for stock spring
rates are about 350
> front/250 rear on a VR-4 (at least the 1995).
Good luck.
>
> --Flash!
> dschilberg@freemarkets.com
>
>
3Si #577
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a
custom spark plug
> plate
> http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg
>
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 09:31:52
-0800
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit Springs
I called them. the > should really be a
< in my opinion. In other words they
don't have springs for cars greater
than 95 with a sunroof. So who's got
recommendations for a '97 SL? Intrax?
Thanks.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc.
(ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
To: "Team3S"
<team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 20, 2000 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit
Springs
> Here's what the application guide at Eibach.com
says.....
>
> 3000 GT, Base model, 2WD
> (Exc. '95> w/
electric sunroof) 1991 2000
> 3000 GT VR4, AWD
> (Exc. Spyder &
'95> with sunroof) 1991 2000
> 3000 GT/SL, 2WD
> (Exc. Base model
& '95> w/sunroof) 1991 2000
>
> Although I can't say I
understand what they mean.... It looks as though
the
> only cars
affected are years less than 95 with sunroof?!? Still
not
clear...
>
> -Bart Kurek
> Sales Engineer
>
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
> http://www.eli.net
> mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
>
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
>
To: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>;
"'cody'"
> <overclck@flash.net>; "Team3S" <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 6:35 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Eibach Pro
Kit Springs
>
>
> > Just to clarify ... those of us
searching for the solution do not have
the
> > Active Suspension
(ECS) so we are trying to get stiffer springs and
> > adjustable
shocks. This most likely means a coilover system with 4- or
> >
8-way (or more) adjustable shocks.
> >
> > H&R was a
prototype spring used and possibly GABs. Obviously the higher
> >
price components (Tokico, Tein, etc.) may fit or may be custom-made for
>
each
> > application but we were trying not to go for broke and keep
the price
> > reasonable. With about 10 people we might be able
to get a discount,
but
> as
> > mentioned, we already get some
great deals from places with our current
> > discount.
>
>
> > --Flash!
> > dschilberg@freemarkets.com
>
>
> > 3Si #577
> > 1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK,
Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark plug
> > plate
> > http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg
>
>
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
Schilberg, Darren [mailto:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
>
> Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 9:32 AM
> > To: 'cody';
Team3S
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit Springs
>
>
> > WARNING: If you have a 1995+ VR-4 with an automatic sunroof
(not sure
> about
> > Stealths) then there is absolutely no
aftermarket spring that will fit
> your
> > car. You will
have to custom-order a set to have them fit.
> >
> > We have
had a small band of individuals trying to solve this problem and
> >
install some prototypes from H&R to see if these work. There is a
small
> > perch that interferes with the spring when the car has an
automatic
> sunroof.
> >
> > We will send an update to
the list when all questions have been
answered.
> >
> > As
for answering the question - it is a matter of personal
preference.
If
> > you want stock ride height and lowering
capabilities then a coilover
> system
> > is suggested. If
you just wanna drop it then springs are the best bang
> for
> >
the buck. I think rough estimates for stock spring rates are about
350
> > front/250 rear on a VR-4 (at least the 1995). Good
luck.
> >
> > --Flash!
> > dschilberg@freemarkets.com
>
>
> > 3Si #577
> > 1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK,
Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark plug
> > plate
> > http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg
>
>
> >
> > *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 11:38:20
-0600
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit Springs
You didn't mention, but I am (As everyone
else is) pretty sure this only
applies to electric sunroofs... Question
that I still don't understand...
There are no different part numbers in any
of the service manuals for
different suspension on the Electric Sunroof vs.
standard car. There is
just no variation in the service manual - that
doesn't make sense...
- -Cody
#I called them. the > should
really be a < in my opinion. In other
#words they
#don't have springs
for cars greater than 95 with a sunroof. So who's got
#recommendations for a
'97 SL? Intrax? Thanks.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 09:45:02
-0800
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit Springs
They only mention electric on the base
model. Appears to be a little
differnet from what we've heard here in the
forum.... I'm still confused.
3000 GT, Base model, 2WD
(Exc. '95>
w/ electric sunroof) 1991 2000
3000 GT VR4, AWD
(Exc. Spyder & '95>
with sunroof) 1991 2000
3000 GT/SL, 2WD
(Exc. Base model & '95>
w/sunroof) 1991 2000
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric
Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
To: "Team3S"
<team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 20, 2000 9:38 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit
Springs
> You didn't mention, but I am (As everyone else is)
pretty sure this only
> applies to electric sunroofs... Question
that I still don't understand...
> There are no different part numbers in
any of the service manuals for
> different suspension on the Electric
Sunroof vs. standard car. There is
> just no variation in the
service manual - that doesn't make sense...
>
>
-Cody
>
>
> #I called them. the > should really be a <
in my opinion. In other
> #words they
> #don't have springs for cars
greater than 95 with a sunroof. So who's got
> #recommendations for a '97
SL? Intrax? Thanks.
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 13:02:23
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Manual run fuel pump / drain tank
Hello
Can anyone tell me how to
manually run my fuel pump to drain my tank?
There is no wiring harness in my
car so not possible that way (this is
my car that was totalled and is being
parted out). I followed the
wiring schematic in the manual, but nothin
happened. Anyone?
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 12:00:20
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Manual run fuel pump / drain tank
> Can anyone tell me how
to manually run my fuel pump to drain my
> tank? There is no wiring
harness in my car so not possible
> that way (this is my car that was
totalled and is being parted
> out). I followed the wiring schematic
in the manual, but
> nothin happened. Anyone?
There should be
a bolt low on the tank. On my car it is on the left side if
I remember
right. Take that out and let it drain that way. The pump
will
never get all the gas out anyway.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:00:25
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Eibachs are available for all 3S models
*except* those with a sunroof.
On November 15, I posted the reply from Team
Eibach (Alex Dupleich
eibach@eibach.com) that they do not make a
Pro-Kit for our cars with
sunroof.
Use the Search page to find similar
posts (or that one).
www.Team3S,com/Search.htm
Best,
Forrest
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
To: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>; "Team3S"
<team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 20, 2000 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit
Springs
> They only mention electric on the base model. Appears to
be a little
> differnet from what we've heard here in the forum.... I'm
still
confused.
>
> 3000 GT, Base model, 2WD
> (Exc.
'95> w/ electric sunroof) 1991 2000
> 3000 GT VR4, AWD
> (Exc.
Spyder & '95> with sunroof) 1991 2000
> 3000 GT/SL, 2WD
>
(Exc. Base model & '95> w/sunroof) 1991 2000
>
>
>
-Bart Kurek
> Sales Engineer
> Electric Lightwave Inc.
(ELIX)
> http://www.eli.net
> mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
>
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
> To: "Team3S"
<team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 9:38 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Eibach
Pro Kit Springs
>
>
> > You didn't mention, but I am (As
everyone else is) pretty sure this
only
> > applies to electric
sunroofs... Question that I still don't
understand...
> >
There are no different part numbers in any of the service manuals
for
>
> different suspension on the Electric Sunroof vs. standard car.
There
is
> > just no variation in the service manual - that doesn't make
sense...
> >
> > -Cody
> >
> >
> >
#I called them. the > should really be a < in my opinion. In other
>
> #words they
> > #don't have springs for cars greater than 95 with
a sunroof. So
who's got
> > #recommendations for a '97 SL? Intrax?
Thanks.
> >
> >
> > *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 13:12:59
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Manual run fuel pump / drain tank
Sweet!
I still want to test
the pump to sell it, do you know how?
Ken
"Jannusch, Matt"
wrote:
> > Can anyone tell me how to manually run my fuel pump to
drain my
> > tank? There is no wiring harness in my car so not
possible
> > that way (this is my car that was totalled and is being
parted
> > out). I followed the wiring schematic in the manual,
but
> > nothin happened. Anyone?
>
> There should be
a bolt low on the tank. On my car it is on the left side if
> I
remember right. Take that out and let it drain that way. The pump
will
> never get all the gas out anyway.
>
> -Matt
> '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:18:30
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Manual run fuel pump / drain tank
Uhh..it has two
wires.
Gotta battery?
PS: Dont run it dry for long, it wont like
it. *g*
On Wed, 20 Dec 2000, Ken Stanton wrote:
>
Sweet!
> I still want to test the pump to sell it, do you know
how?
> Ken
>
> "Jannusch, Matt" wrote:
>
> >
> Can anyone tell me how to manually run my fuel pump to drain my
>
> > tank? There is no wiring harness in my car so not
possible
> > > that way (this is my car that was totalled and is
being parted
> > > out). I followed the wiring schematic in
the manual, but
> > > nothin happened. Anyone?
>
>
> > There should be a bolt low on the tank. On my car it is
on the left side if
> > I remember right. Take that out and let
it drain that way. The pump will
> > never get all the gas out
anyway.
> >
> > -Matt
> > '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
> >
> > *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 12:14:22
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Manual run fuel pump / drain tank
> Sweet! I still
want to test the pump to sell it, do you
> know how?
Pull the pump
out of the tank, put +12V on the white/blue (the one with the
white cover
over it) wire and ground on the black wire. If it runs, it
should be
good.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 11:04:26
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aftermarket in-dash gages
Hi Ken,
I am planning a
similar activity this winter. I am pulling the dash
to replace the vents and
those three gauges. I was going to check
with Westach http://www.westach.com/ and
Intellitronix
http://www.intellitronix.com/ to see if
they can build what I want
(if not available from Autometer or GReddy).
I have put a GReedy boost gauge on the steering column so don't
need
one in the dash. It is very nice to have an analog
peak-hold-warn
boost gauge seperate from the EBC.
Here is what I
thought I might do.
1) Combo gauge showing oil pressure and temperature
(look at the
Westach examples, pretty neat),
2) Combo gauge showing air
pressure at 2 locations in the IC system
(I can put a multi-switch for it in
the glovebox) - or - maybe air
temp and pressure at one point (switchable
again), and
3) (Combo) gauge showing coolant temp (and plenum air temp
maybe?).
I haven't decided yet on the final arrangement. I already have
fuel
pressure and 2 EGT gauges on the A-pillar, and an A/F in
the
glovebox. I am open for suggestions and ideas also from people
who
have some experience in this. Did I miss something that we should
be
monitoring (like head temp or trany fluid temp)?
Now if we could
just get some sort of knock count display/LED
somewhere ...
Jeff
Lucius, www.stealth316.com
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stanton" <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: "Team3S
Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 20, 2000 10:17 AM
Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket in-dash
gages
Hello
I'm in process with my winter rebuild on my TT,
and have been
desiring
some high accuracy aftermarket gauges to replace
the three in the
dash
cluster. That would be boost, oil pressure,
and coolant temp.
Anyone have any suggestions?
I would like white faces,
which I think is easy to get, but that's
not
my focus.
Boost - I
would like a much more accurate gage - I will be getting a
Apexi BC sometime
soon but would still like to have something
accurate, that is good even in
the vacuum range? Are there any
non-electrical types maybe?
Oil
pressure - the stock one is just too lame. It never seems
to
move
much between idle and WOT.
Coolant - maybe the stock _type_
is ok, but with a fully accurate
digital readout?
Ok, any and all
suggestions welcome, thanks so much!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
__________________________________________________
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Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 13:38:39
-0500
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject:
Team3S: Need Help Replacing Antenna
I bought a new replacement antenna
mast which includes the gear-rack strip.
But I can't get the old one out. I
removed the locking ring that secures
the assembly to the body, and according
to the manual, the mast should just
pull right out after the radio power is
turned on and the mast is extended.
But it doesn't. What do I need to
do?
Thanks in advance.
Jeff W.
'92 VR4
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 14:23:51
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Aftermarket in-dash gages
Jeff (and all)
Why do we monitor
EGT?
Have you considered my thought of electric vs. direct
connect/vacuum
connect etc?
Also, do you know what size fits in
there?
Ken
Jeff Lucius wrote:
> Hi Ken,
>
>
I am planning a similar activity this winter. I am pulling the dash
> to
replace the vents and those three gauges. I was going to check
> with
Westach http://www.westach.com/ and
Intellitronix
> http://www.intellitronix.com/ to see if
they can build what I want
> (if not available from Autometer or
GReddy).
>
> I have put a GReedy boost gauge on the steering column
so don't need
> one in the dash. It is very nice to have an analog
peak-hold-warn
> boost gauge seperate from the EBC.
>
> Here
is what I thought I might do.
>
> 1) Combo gauge showing oil
pressure and temperature (look at the
> Westach examples, pretty
neat),
> 2) Combo gauge showing air pressure at 2 locations in the IC
system
> (I can put a multi-switch for it in the glovebox) - or - maybe
air
> temp and pressure at one point (switchable again), and
> 3)
(Combo) gauge showing coolant temp (and plenum air temp maybe?).
>
>
I haven't decided yet on the final arrangement. I already have fuel
>
pressure and 2 EGT gauges on the A-pillar, and an A/F in the
> glovebox. I
am open for suggestions and ideas also from people who
> have some
experience in this. Did I miss something that we should be
> monitoring
(like head temp or trany fluid temp)?
>
> Now if we could just get
some sort of knock count display/LED
> somewhere ...
>
> Jeff
Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Stanton" <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
> To: "Team3S
Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 10:17 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket
in-dash gages
>
> Hello
>
> I'm in process with my
winter rebuild on my TT, and have been
> desiring
> some high
accuracy aftermarket gauges to replace the three in the
> dash
>
cluster. That would be boost, oil pressure, and coolant temp.
>
Anyone have any suggestions?
> I would like white faces, which I think is
easy to get, but that's
> not
> my focus.
>
> Boost - I
would like a much more accurate gage - I will be getting a
> Apexi BC
sometime soon but would still like to have something
> accurate, that is
good even in the vacuum range? Are there any
> non-electrical types
maybe?
>
> Oil pressure - the stock one is just too lame. It
never seems to
> move
> much between idle and WOT.
>
>
Coolant - maybe the stock _type_ is ok, but with a fully accurate
>
digital readout?
>
> Ok, any and all suggestions welcome, thanks so
much!
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White RT/TT
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of
Products.
> http://shopping.yahoo.com/
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 14:35:24
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need Help Replacing Antenna
Do a little dance called the
Twist!
I think you need to rotate the plastic strip 90 degrees, I can't
remember which
direction. It is held in down at the base of the motor
by a little gear, you
need to unlatch it from that. Same thing on
reinstall - you need to put it in
at the angle, and retwist to the original
position.
Good luck!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
> I bought a new replacement antenna mast which includes the
gear-rack strip.
> But I can't get the old one out. I removed the locking
ring that secures
> the assembly to the body, and according to the manual,
the mast should just
> pull right out after the radio power is turned on
and the mast is extended.
> But it doesn't. What do I need to
do?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jeff W.
> '92
VR4
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 11:34:32
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aftermarket in-dash gages
EGT are good somewhat for tuning
and even better as warning gauges in
case of a failure (especially in fuel
supply). I have spent more on
my engine than I bought the car for so I
monitor both exhaust
manifolds.
I prefer electrical gauges. There is a
lot of room in front of the
radio and ECU behind those center console panels
for control units (I
have the FP an boost units in there now).
From
what I have seen, if you leave the plastic cover on then 52 mm
will fit
behind. With the plastic cover removed 60 mm will fit nicely
in the openings
(I've seen this on a local car, very nice).
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Ken Stanton" <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Cc:
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 20, 2000 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aftermarket
in-dash gages
Jeff (and all)
Why do we monitor EGT?
Have
you considered my thought of electric vs. direct connect/vacuum
connect
etc?
Also, do you know what size fits in there?
Ken
Jeff Lucius
wrote:
> Hi Ken,
>
> I am planning a similar activity this
winter. I am pulling the dash
> to replace the vents and those three
gauges. I was going to check
> with Westach http://www.westach.com/ and
Intellitronix
> http://www.intellitronix.com/ to see if
they can build what I want
> (if not available from Autometer or
GReddy).
>
> I have put a GReedy boost gauge on the steering column
so don't
need
> one in the dash. It is very nice to have an analog
peak-hold-warn
> boost gauge seperate from the EBC.
>
> Here
is what I thought I might do.
>
> 1) Combo gauge showing oil
pressure and temperature (look at the
> Westach examples, pretty
neat),
> 2) Combo gauge showing air pressure at 2 locations in the IC
system
> (I can put a multi-switch for it in the glovebox) - or - maybe
air
> temp and pressure at one point (switchable again), and
> 3)
(Combo) gauge showing coolant temp (and plenum air temp maybe?).
>
>
I haven't decided yet on the final arrangement. I already have fuel
>
pressure and 2 EGT gauges on the A-pillar, and an A/F in the
> glovebox. I
am open for suggestions and ideas also from people who
> have some
experience in this. Did I miss something that we should
be
> monitoring
(like head temp or trany fluid temp)?
>
> Now if we could just get
some sort of knock count display/LED
> somewhere ...
>
> Jeff
Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Stanton" <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
> To: "Team3S
Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 10:17 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket
in-dash gages
>
> Hello
>
> I'm in process with my
winter rebuild on my TT, and have been
> desiring
> some high
accuracy aftermarket gauges to replace the three in the
> dash
>
cluster. That would be boost, oil pressure, and coolant temp.
>
Anyone have any suggestions?
> I would like white faces, which I think is
easy to get, but that's
> not
> my focus.
>
> Boost - I
would like a much more accurate gage - I will be getting
a
> Apexi BC
sometime soon but would still like to have something
> accurate, that is
good even in the vacuum range? Are there any
> non-electrical types
maybe?
>
> Oil pressure - the stock one is just too lame. It
never seems to
> move
> much between idle and WOT.
>
>
Coolant - maybe the stock _type_ is ok, but with a fully accurate
>
digital readout?
>
> Ok, any and all suggestions welcome, thanks so
much!
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White
RT/TT
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 11:42:10
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need Help Replacing Antenna
Twist and pull harder. If there
was a problem with the old one
though, there may be a piece broken off the
bottom and stuck in the
motor. I have step-by-step instructions with pictures
for this work
at the link below. Check out my Garage Web Page for other tips
and
links.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/nlucius/n-2-antenna.htm
Jeff
Lucius, www.stealth316.com
-
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
To:
<team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 20, 2000 11:38 AM
Subject: Team3S: Need Help Replacing
Antenna
I bought a new replacement antenna mast which includes the
gear-rack
strip. But I can't get the old one out. I removed the locking
ring
that secures the assembly to the body, and according to the
manual,
the mast should just pull right out after the radio power is
turned
on and the mast is extended. But it doesn't. What do I need to
do?
Thanks in advance.
Jeff W.
'92
VR4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 14:00:31
-0800
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch engagement problem...
Well, I had to get towed the other day
because I could not get the car into
gear. The clutch had resistance,
quite a bit too, but it didn't disengage
the clutch enough to get the car
into gear. If I started the car while in
gear with the clutch pressed
down all the way, the car will start and won't
roll unless I lift off the
clutch just a tiny bit. So I took the liberty of
bleeding the system,
but that didn't help. I adjusted the clutch pedal (the
adjustment in
the footwell) a few days before this happened because I
noticed the
engagement point was getting very low on the floor. I had
adjusted it
as far as it could go. But I guess that didn't work because
the
engagement point still continued to lower itself. So I took off the
clutch
master cylinder and looked at the piston/rod adjustment thing and that
looks
okay (like, nothing looks outta the ordinary.) I need to get some
calipers
before I can verify it's within spec, but I'm running out of
ideas. The
master and slave cylinders are only a few months old, so I
doubt they are
the problem. There are no leaks, and the bleeding didn't
help. So assuming
the piston/rod adjustment is within spec, do you guys
think I might have a
bent clutch fork? I have an RPS Stage III clutch,
perhaps that overwhelmed
the 155k mile-used fork? I'm running out of
ideas here, and I don't want to
take the tranny off for the 4th time in 6th
months.
Thanks,
Chris
92 R/T TT (got a nice PPI amp yesterday that
I wanna try, but it's no fun if
the car doesn't move)
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 13:49:25
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch engagement problem...
Hi Chris,
> Well, I
had to get towed the other day because I could not get the car into
>
gear. The clutch had resistance, quite a bit too, but it didn't
disengage
> the clutch enough to get the car into gear. If I started
the car while in
> gear with the clutch pressed down all the way, the car
will start and won't
> roll unless I lift off the clutch just a tiny
bit. So I took the liberty of
> bleeding the system, but that didn't
help. I adjusted the clutch pedal (the
> adjustment in the footwell)
a few days before this happened because I
> noticed the engagement point
was getting very low on the floor. I had
> adjusted it as far as it
could go. But I guess that didn't work because the
> engagement
point still continued to lower itself.
It sounds like fluid is
leaking past the seal in the clutch master or slave
cylinder.
> So
I took off the clutch
> master cylinder and looked at the piston/rod
adjustment thing and that looks
> okay (like, nothing looks outta the
ordinary.) I need to get some calipers
> before I can verify it's
within spec, but I'm running out of ideas. The
> master and slave
cylinders are only a few months old, so I doubt they are
> the
problem. There are no leaks, and the bleeding didn't help. So
assuming
> the piston/rod adjustment is within spec, do you guys think I
might have a
> bent clutch fork? I have an RPS Stage III clutch,
perhaps that overwhelmed
> the 155k mile-used fork? I'm running out
of ideas here, and I don't want to
> take the tranny off for the 4th time
in 6th months.
I had a slave cylinder seal go out even though it wasn't
that old (in my case,
about 12 months old). You would notice leaking
though.
Have someone operate the clutch while you look at the slave
cylinder. See if it
is moving the right amount.
Check the hoses
too. Maybe you have a hose puffing up like a frog's throat
(yea, this
is a long shot ;)).
Let us know the solution when you fix it.
Good
luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San
Diego, CA
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 15:52:07
-0800
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch engagement problem...
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
Check the vacuum hose that connects to the clutch booster and see if it
is
> pinched shut at the 90 degree bend it has to make. Also,
disconnect it
and
> see if there is a vacuum on the booster
system. If no vacuum, you may
have
> a hole or disconnect in one
of the many hoses on the booster system that
> connect the tubing that
leads to the booster reservior under the front end
> of the
car.
I've taken the booster off and checked its function. The
vacumn tube only
"assists" the pedal, but doesn't have any mechanical affect
on it. I've
been running with the clutch booster vacumn tubes
disconnected for months
with no problems till now.
Well, when I get
some calipers later, I'll check the piston/rod clearance.
Then I'll put
everything back together and try it out again. btw, there
were no
visible leaks in the system (unfortunately because that would make
this
problem easy to diagnose). I hope it's just an adjustment
issue...but
my luck this year with that car would suggest otherwise...
=(
Chris
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 00:14:31
-0600
From: "Oskar" <osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Aftermarket in-dash gages
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C06AE2.FD4B5660
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
Ken,
52 mm gauges will fit nicely and look like they were
made to fit the car.
I would recommend a mechanical boost gauge. Just
be sure to connect the
hose properly as you will not be tearing down your
dash very often.
Mechanical water temp can be connected right next to the
stock sensors.
There is an extra plug in the housing next to the water temp
sensors for the
stock gauge and ECU.
Mechanical oil pressure can be
connected where stock oil press. sensor for
stock gauge is located.
I used
the Autometer Phantom line in my car. It is a bit tricky to
fabricate a
bracket for mounting these gauges. The stock gauges is actually
just
one assembly.
I have attached a small picture. The gauges are fuel
pressure (electric),
oil pressure (mechanical) and water temp
(mechanical). I believe this pic.
was taken going down the freeway in
fourth gear.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Ken Stanton" <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: "Team3S
Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 20, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket in-dash
gages
> Hello
>
> I'm in process with my winter
rebuild on my TT, and have been desiring
> some high accuracy aftermarket
gauges to replace the three in the dash
> cluster. That would be
boost, oil pressure, and coolant temp.
> Anyone have any
suggestions?
> I would like white faces, which I think is easy to get, but
that's not
> my focus.
>
> Boost - I would like a much more
accurate gage - I will be getting a
> Apexi BC sometime soon but would
still like to have something accurate,
> that is good even in the vacuum
range? Are there any non-electrical
> types maybe?
>
>
Oil pressure - the stock one is just too lame. It never seems to
move
> much between idle and WOT.
>
> Coolant - maybe the
stock _type_ is ok, but with a fully accurate
> digital
readout?
>
> Ok, any and all suggestions welcome, thanks so
much!
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White
RT/TT
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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-
------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C06AE2.FD4B5660--
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#357
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