team3s Wednesday,
December 20 2000 Volume 01
: Number
356
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Dec 2000 09:35:50 -0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Just to clarify ... those of us
searching for the solution do not have the
Active Suspension (ECS) so we are
trying to get stiffer springs and
adjustable shocks. This most likely
means a coilover system with 4- or
8-way (or more) adjustable
shocks.
H&R was a prototype spring used and possibly GABs.
Obviously the higher
price components (Tokico, Tein, etc.) may fit or may be
custom-made for each
application but we were trying not to go for broke and
keep the price
reasonable. With about 10 people we might be able to get
a discount, but as
mentioned, we already get some great deals from places
with our current
discount.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Schilberg, Darren [
mailto:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
Sent:
Monday, December 18, 2000 9:32 AM
To: 'cody'; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
WARNING: If you have a 1995+ VR-4 with an
automatic sunroof (not sure about
Stealths) then there is absolutely no
aftermarket spring that will fit your
car. You will have to
custom-order a set to have them fit.
We have had a small band of
individuals trying to solve this problem and
install some prototypes from
H&R to see if these work. There is a small
perch that interferes
with the spring when the car has an automatic sunroof.
We will send an
update to the list when all questions have been answered.
As for
answering the question - it is a matter of personal preference. If
you
want stock ride height and lowering capabilities then a coilover system
is
suggested. If you just wanna drop it then springs are the best bang
for
the buck. I think rough estimates for stock spring rates are about
350
front/250 rear on a VR-4 (at least the 1995). Good luck.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 18:44:52
-0600
From: "David B. Kopacz" <
kopacz@vss.fsi.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car Cover?
Chris [
The68th@aol.com] writes:
C> Does
anyone have any car cover recommendations? I have to park my
C> car
outside in a cold Minnesota winter, and I don't drive it in
C> the
winter. What would be the best thing to protect it?
Geoff
Mohler [
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
responds:
GM>
http://www.miata.net/faq/carcover.htmlChris,
I
looked over the Car Cover FAQ mentioned above and I think it missed
something
very important. The writer seemed to be overly concerned
about how much
more water-proof this material is to that material --
you'd think
water-proofing was the priority. For my money, breathe-
ability is much
more important. Water-proofing not only keeps the
rain out but it also
holds condensation and other moisture in.
Unless you like rust, this is NOT
a good thing.
IMHO, you want a 100% cotton cover. It will keep the
bird poop and
tree-leaf acids from ruining your paint job without trapping
the
moisture and condensation from the temperature changes
you'll
experience during long-term storage. Sure the rain will get
through,
but it will also evaporate away when the sun comes back
out.
I've got a 100% cotton cover from Beverly Hill Motoring
Accessories
(BHMA) in California and I am very happy with it. The
cotton fabric
they use is heavy duty, but very soft and it gets softer each
time I
wash it -- about once a year. I've had for around six years and
it
has held up very well. My car is garaged when I'm not driving
it,
and in the winter when I don't drive it for weeks at a time, it
is
also covered. But I mainly use the cover when I drive my Stealth
to
work in the summer months. Not only does the cover protect
the
paint, interior fabric, and plastics from UV, but it also keeps
the
car cooler. I have measured the inside temperatures with and
without
the cover and have found that the car stays anywhere from 15 to
30
degrees cooler when using the cover. (I have measured
temperatures
as high as 140 degrees after a few hours without the cover, but
never
more than 110 with it.) And of course, it also provides
some
protection from door dings caused by the idiots parked next to
me.
David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 17:05:07
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spring Rates WAS: Eibach Pro Kit Springs
> As for answering
the question - it is a matter of personal
> preference. If you want
stock ride height and lowering capabilities then
a
> coilover system
is suggested. If you just wanna drop it then springs are
the
>
best bang for the buck. I think rough estimates for stock spring
rates
are
> about 350 front/250 rear on a VR-4 (at least the
1995). Good luck.
>
> --Flash!
>
dschilberg@freemarkets.comOk,
so here's what I can dig up from the FSM:
Spring Rates:
'91-'93
AWD
Front: 218 lb/in
Rear: 157lb/in
'94+
AWD
Front: 212 lb/in
Rear: 157lb/in
'91-'93 FWD
Front: 168
lb/in
Rear: 196lb/in
'94+ FWD
Front: 162
lb/in
Rear: 190lb/in
Shock Damping Force (@.984
ft/s):
<listed as Hard/Medium/Soft (non-ECS) >
'91+
FWD, '91-'95.5 AWD
Front: expansion 558/348/137
(238)
contraction 262/247/214 (119)
Rear: expansion
377/256/123 (220)
contraction 223/194/148 (121)
'95.5+ AWD
Front:
expansion 238
contraction 119
Rear: expansion
309
contraction 110
So, the things that stand out to me
are:
1) The front springs rates for the FWD cars are considerably lower
than AWD
cars.
2) The rear springs rates for the FWD cars are
considerably higher than AWD
cars.
3) The non-ECS shocks are close to
the "Tour"/soft ECS setting.
I'm not really sure why 1 is that
way. I'd imagine that 2 is to lessen
rearward weight transfer
(squatting) in the FWD cars. I'd guess 3 is
because of marketing and
the "daily driver" and "touring" uses of the car
(i.e. when it's not
adjustable, make the stock setting soft for the people
who want
comfort).
Comments/explanations? I seem to remember people talking
about using GC
kits with springs in the 400-500 lb/in range - is your car
unbearably bouncy
on imperfect roads? Anyone know the specs on the
GABs?
- --Erik
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 15:51:51
+0200
From: "Olegs Rezniks" <
oleg@telia.lv>
Subject: Re: Team3S: CAPS
program help...
Hi,
See illustration 54-310 your sensor number is
MB622090
You can write any words in "Parts name" and press
"enter"
Best Regards,
Oleg 3SI#0441
> (Posted for
Martin, again...)
> -------------------
>
> Hi Guys
> I
installed the CAPS program today and wanted to find a part number for
>
the
> speed sensor for my 92 3000GT TT but could not find it in any
sections.
>
> Anybody got any ideas on where I should look?
>
I can't find any instructions on how to use it correctly.
>
>
Regards
> Martin
>
martin@star.co.uk>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 16:33:53
-0600
From: "John C. Davidson" <
jd@edge-software.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: Turbo 5-speed with low mileage and new syncros!
I'm looking
at changing my 93 VR4 to a 6 speed. This means I'll
have to replace the
entire setup (transaxle, transfer case,
rear-diff, linkages, etc).
My
5 speed has only 23K on the entire setup, and I had a brand
new set of
syncros installed at 18K. (The syncro swap was a
condition of buying the car,
and the syncro set came from one of
Jack T.'s Getrag buys. It was a complete
syncro swap, not just
the 1-2.)
I'd prefer to sell everything
together, but I will consider
breaking it up. If anyone is interested or has
any questions,
please email me directly at:
jd@edge-software.com to avoid
any
extra spamming of the list. (Beyond what I've done already.)
;)
-JD
http://www.clan-davidson/jd/vr41993
Caracas Red 3000GT VR4 -------------------------------
Factory stock, with
all options. Volk Challenge wheels
(Chrome w/Black Diamond lip),
Firehawk SZ50 275/40 zr17 tires,
Porsche/Brembo "Big Red" front calipers, 2
piston rear calipers,
Porterfield Cryoed/Cross Drilled rotors, SS
lines. K&N Intake,
Borla Exhaust. Snake Eyes Mod.
1992
Sandstone Gray Metallic 3000GT VR4 -------------------
Blitz DSBC, Blitz
SBOV, SPI Boost Gauge, WeaponX Intake,
Eibach Springs, Stillen Crossdrilled
Rotors, Metal Matrix Pads,
Snake Eyes Mod.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 05:46:02
EST
From:
Kdog109SD@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Brake
Calipers
Can someone give me tips on cleaning the brake calipers.
Also I have some
rust around the outside of the calipers how do i get rid of
that?
Kunal S.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#356
*********************
