team3s
Tuesday, December 5
2000 Volume 01
: Number
340
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Dec 2000 15:33:51 -0500
From: Rick Diogo <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Parts for sale and looking for 99 VR-4
Still have a new set of 9b
factory Vr-4 (or Dodge Stealth) turbos for
sale. They are new in the
box---never used or installed. Make Offer.
Also, finally got a
chance to take the new 00' GTS out to the track
(finally have over 600miles
on it) for some baseline runs before I start to
do some mods. We had
enough time for 4 passes. Passes were as
follows:
12.6@118mph
12.6@119mph
12.6@120mph
12.3@122mph
These
runs were made at Moroso motorsports park in Palm Beach, FL on
11/22.
The first three passes were all with 2.3 short times. The last one
was
a 2.1 short time (60ft time). The reason the E.T's are not so great is
because the tires were spinning through at least half of second gear and
well into third. (and trust me folks....this track is STICKY). Only
thing
I installed on the car are the K&N drop in filters. (these
are factory ACR
filters). There were no Vr-4's or Stealths but tons
and tons of Mustangs
and Camaros. One Supra TT (ran a 13.5 @107
according to my buddy Ralph who
was spectating) and a yellow Z06
vette. (appeared all stock). Ran a
12.8@111mph
My buddy also
asked me to post a message to see if anyone has (or knows of
any) 99 Vr-4's
for sale. He is not going to be picky on the color. We are
located in south Florida. He wants one with less than 20k miles if
possible. I am still a Stealth/VR-4 lover (always will be). Only
reason I
sold my 1994 6 speed TT was because I just could not get the thing
to run
the way it should. I think it had to do with the fact
that I could not
get a datalogger to work with it. I hope you guys
find someway of getting
the 94/95 cars to work. <Matt, you
listening!?> :)
Take Care,
Rick Diogo
2000 Viper GTS
-black on black (no stripes)
ex-Stealth TT owner- Pearl Yellow 6 speed
Go
Mopar.
PS: I have time slips scanned if anyone wants to take a
peek. Please email
privately.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 15:01:45
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP
> My goal is to reach 400HP w/o
reducing longevity of the engine as best I
>can..
Me, too. I am
looking for 400-450 RELIABLE horsepower, and here is what I
am
planning.
First, realize that the big bad dude in all this is high
combustion chamber
temperature resulting from high boost, which burns pistons
and rings.
Because I run under high boost for long stretches on road courses,
I am
making mods that will (with luck) keep those temps down. The
second bad
dude is running lean under high boost, which also causes high
temps and
burns stuff up.
So, as soon as I assemble the parts and
find a case of Moose Drool beer, I
will be heading up to Minneapolis where my
buddies Curt and Oskar will help
me install a Blitz DSBC boost controller and
a Spearco water injection
system. The Spearco injects a mist of water into
the air box whenever it
sees boost of more than 6 psi. This keeps temps
down.
Next, I bought a set of Alamo intercoolers and some 550 cc
injectors. The
intercoolers, which are about twice as big as stock, will help
keep intake
air as cool as possible, and the bigger injectors will keep
plenty of fuel
flowing, thus preventing lean mixtures.
Sometime this
winter, I'll put in an ATR downpipe, gut the cats, and run a
single-side
straight through exhaust. All this should be good for 400-450
hp without
straining the engine.
Finally, I will dial down the Blitz to stock
pressure until I get to the
track, where I'll have race gas (102-110 octane)
available. With water
injection, intercoolers, bigger injectors and race gas,
I hope to run all
day at 15 psi boost with no fear of engine damage.
Hope this helps.
Rich/old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 15:07:14
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP
> My goal is to reach 400HP w/o
reducing longevity of the
> engine as best I can..
>
Basically my Hp needs are strictly for street fun.. Not to
>
mention, My plan is to make this as much of a show car as a
>
racer.. I have already made plans for a Cat Back exhaust
>
system(Borla) and a Boost controller.. I already have the
> K&N Cold
Air Induction.. What might be my next move?
If you want to retain
reliability, stop where you are at. Just do the
cat-back exhaust and a
good boost controller. If you feel the need to do
more, then throw on a
high-flow cat and a downpipe and gut the pre-cats and
call it quits.
Set the boost for .95 or 1.0 bar and you are set. You
should be "near"
400hp at that point, but the main thing is that it will be
reliable
horsepower. If you go much beyond that (turbos, stronger
clutches,
water injection, etc.) then you are into the realm of a tweaker car
and your
daily reliability might start to suffer.
The fewer things you
change from stock, the better off you will tend to be.
If you go a whole lot
beyond this stuff, you'll need to throw in a slew of
gauges to keep an eye on
things to keep it reliable.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 15:20:21
-0600
From: "Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Medium Freq. Hum from under hood
Hello all and Happy
Holidays!
I'm brand new to this list and have watched for about 2
weeks now. I have a question, hoping someone can point me in the right
direction.
I have just bought a MINT 1994 Stealth TT. It was
purchased from a collector in PA who literally never drove the vehicle. I
just turned 17,000 original miles on the odometer.
Now for my
question:
The car feels, handles, performs and even smells
showroom new. BUT, when the boost meter hits ~7 psi, there is a medium frequency
hum/buzz coming from under the hood. I first noticed it when entering the
highway and aggressively accelerating. I initially thought it may have been a
boost leak from somewhere under the hood. It may be. Then I started
experimenting with trying to persuade it to happen again. After a little trial
and error, I can pretty much coax the car into emitting the hum as the boost
meter hits 7 psi. It really only occurs when your quickly accelerating or have
downshifted and the boost comes-on quickly.
Is this something that is
considered normal for the TT or VR-4? Or, is this an item I should really be
concerned with? Any info or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
I've owned a 92 R/T since new. This is my first TT.
Thanks in
advance!
Craig G.
94' TT
FIPK
3" Custom
Exhaust
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 22:39:10
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP (wrong water injection)
> me install a
Blitz DSBC boost controller and a Spearco water injection
> system. The
Spearco injects a mist of water into the air box whenever it
> sees boost
of more than 6 psi. This keeps temps down.
RICH !!!! What are you doing
here ? "Spraying water INTO THE AIR BOX ??" You
know , the first what will go
is the MAS as the water droplets (the mist is
not fine enough with the
Spearco) kill the sensing device. Afterwards the
mist goes to the turbos
through some parts that brake the mist apart and the
droplets gonna start to
kill the edges of the impeller blades ! This is the
badest thing you can do.
It can work when you spray directly into the
impeller but then I highly
recommend a high power system that only is
provided by the ERL system with 5
bar pressure of the pump !
> Finally, I will dial down the Blitz to
stock pressure until I get to the
> track, where I'll have race gas
(102-110 octane) available. With water
> injection, intercoolers, bigger
injectors and race gas, I hope to run all
> day at 15 psi boost with no
fear of engine damage.
What I don't understand is why you don't get the
Datalogger and record all
the stuff to be sure if you are o nthe right side
of the moon ? As far as I
remember you are running a 1st gen, right
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 15:54:43
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 8th Annual Norwalk DSM Shootout
>Congrats to Jack T. (94
VR-4) and Vineet Singh (92 Stealth) who
placed first
>and second at
this year's DSM Shootout at Norwalk, OH.
>This was covered in the
latest Sport Compact Car magazine complete
with a
>picture of Jack T.
at the starting line (boy does that car look
basically
>stock from the
outside).
THANKS! :) . Notice Jack had his sideview mirrors "flattened".
This is
the only reason he beat me... NOT! :) (the [in]CONSPICUOUS FMIC
gives
the whole deal away :)
There is also a pic of Dave Buschur
handing out my CD to one of the
3rd place people (all 3rd place people got a
CD... to "improve" for
next year :). I was almost awarded my own CD as a
prize :), but all I
got was a DIET PEPSI for 2nd, and Jack got a REAL PEPSI
for first.
(there were no prizes for 1st and 2nd, so we considered
the
complimentary drinks that Buschur provided, our "trophies" :). Mine
is
recycled somewhere by now :P
A couple of the Chicago area DSM/3s
people are also in that pic with
Jack's awesome red car in there, it was a
TOTAL blast, and my neighbor
and I are going next year. I probably will bring
my twin turbo Talon
(if it's done by then), but he will bring his 94 red VR4
with some
custom mods. See yall next year!
Vineet Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 15:52:22
-0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Medium Freq. Hum from under hood
Sounds like the dreaded
honking BOV problem. It should only happen under
partial throttle
situations. And it sounds like a honking goose or
resonating
sound. This is caused by the stock BOV leaking a little air out.
Just enough to create a "blowing over beer bottle" sound as air pass
through the y-pipe and across the outlet to the BOV.
Your best
solution is to replace the BOV with a 1g DSM BOV or a quality
aftermarket
one. The honking sound doesn't cause any damage
though.
later,
Curt
CarParts at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html>From:
"Craig Golema" <
CGOLEMA@hobbico.com>
>To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: Medium Freq. Hum from under hood
>Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 15:20:21
-0600
>
>Hello all and Happy Holidays!
>
>
I'm brand new to this list and have watched for about 2 weeks now. I
>have a question, hoping someone can point me in the right
direction.
>
> I have just bought a MINT 1994 Stealth
TT. It was purchased from a
>collector in PA who literally never
drove the vehicle. I just turned
>17,000 original miles on the
odometer.
>
>Now for my question:
>
> The
car feels, handles, performs and even smells showroom new. BUT, when
>the
boost meter hits ~7 psi, there is a medium frequency hum/buzz coming
>from under the hood. I first noticed it when entering the highway and
>aggressively accelerating. I initially thought it may have been a boost
>leak from somewhere under the hood. It may be. Then I started
experimenting
>with trying to persuade it to happen again. After a little
trial and error,
>I can pretty much coax the car into emitting the hum as
the boost meter
>hits 7 psi. It really only occurs when your quickly
accelerating or have
>downshifted and the boost comes-on
quickly.
> Is this something that is considered normal for the
TT or VR-4? Or, is
>this an item I should really be concerned with? Any
info or experiences
>would be greatly appreciated.
>
I've owned a 92 R/T since new. This is my first TT.
>
>Thanks in
advance!
>
>Craig G.
>94' TT
>FIPK
>3" Custom
Exhaust
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_____________________________________________________________________________________
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more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 16:01:32
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP (wrong water injection)
Maybe Curt or
Oskar will jump in here and explain. Help, guys.
BTW, I have a 94
VR4.
Rich
At 10:39 PM 12/4/00 +0100, Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)
wrote:
>> me install a Blitz DSBC boost controller and a Spearco water
injection
>> system. The Spearco injects a mist of water into the air
box whenever it
>> sees boost of more than 6 psi. This keeps temps
down.
>
>RICH !!!! What are you doing here ? "Spraying water INTO
THE AIR BOX ??" You
>know , the first what will go is the MAS as the water
droplets (the mist is
>not fine enough with the Spearco) kill the sensing
device. Afterwards the
>mist goes to the turbos through some parts that
brake the mist apart and the
>droplets gonna start to kill the edges of
the impeller blades ! This is the
>badest thing you can do. It can work
when you spray directly into the
>impeller but then I highly recommend a
high power system that only is
>provided by the ERL system with 5 bar
pressure of the pump !
>
>> Finally, I will dial down the Blitz
to stock pressure until I get to the
>> track, where I'll have race gas
(102-110 octane) available. With water
>> injection, intercoolers,
bigger injectors and race gas, I hope to run all
>> day at 15 psi boost
with no fear of engine damage.
>
>What I don't understand is why you
don't get the Datalogger and record all
>the stuff to be sure if you are o
nthe right side of the moon ? As far as I
>remember you are running a 1st
gen, right ?
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 23:11:30
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP
The advices given are good but to be
honest I made the following experience
with a customers car
:
94'3000GT European Model (=93 US model but with 13g factory turbos,
same
like mine). he called me due to the fact that he got a wavey behaviour
also
called hesitation that goes up and down. The car was 100% stock and the
guy
bought it 2 weeks ago in this condition. I hooked up the TMO Datalogger
and
found out that there is a lot timing retard and a strange behaviour in
the
air curve. Knock appeard at only 0-5 bars of boost and timing got as low
as
I never have it seen here. Luckily knock was below 15 but still way too
much
for a stock car.
This tells us that all cars can be different and
you never know what you
really have until you see into the details !
I
then checked several parts and also found out that a fuel injector seemed
to
be at his end at about 60% IDC. To make the story short, I cleaned the
fuel
system, regapped the plugs down to 0.032, installed a Filtercharger
and
Greddy Type S blow off valve and the Blitz DSBC. The last datalog showed
0
knock at 1.04 bars of boost, same plugs, same wires. The client called
me
the other day and told me he's runnign a totally new car and that he
needs
to know what to do to set the DSBC to off ... when his wife now drives
the
car, LOL.
There was also an analogy to a 96 3000GT, also
Euro-spec. that finally
blowed a piston at only 0.86 bars of boost.
In
general, sustained boost should not increase 1 bar but this is not a
real
problem because the stock 9b turbos cannot hold them anyways. Of course,
the
higher the initial boost the higher the sustained boost will be. So if
one
shifts at 6500rpm the peak boost may occur at 5400 what is already in
the
dangerous area (4800 to 5600)
Matts advice is absolutely right,
because at the point where larger
injectors being installed the daily
reliabilty starts really to suffer. Not
mileage (at least not with the ARC
fuel computer) but how it acts and how it
behaves.
The mods can be
done in Stages and the most reliability hp is Stage 1
(360-380hp) what
includes K&N filter (this is NOT a cold air induction !!)
and any boost
controller. If the car is older, a good BOV should be
installed (Greddy Type
S, bypass style is highly recommended) as well as
when the "owl"-sound can be
heard at medium load.
Gutting the precats is what really frees up the
spool-up of the turbines
while the stock cat is not a problem as it is large
enough. The more the
problem is the design of the stock downpipe that causes
a 90° blow in
restriction from the rear turbo. Here again, Matts advice of a
good DP is
correct but you should not expect more power then. But tourque
will be risen
due to better and faster response of the turbos.
A
cat-back exhaust doesn't help anything but sound if you don't go above
1.0
bars of boost (or even more)
This Stage 1 setup will provide you
up to 400hp but that's it ! Here the
stock fuel system ends as our engines
need a rich mixture to prevent the
killing knock. The injectors are then
maxxed out i.e. above 80% of the time
(100% in this case !) open, what is
technically not good (hurts injectors as
well as degrades the spray pattern).
For daily use it's ok, even for drag
racing but not for tracks where boost is
longer present.
Happy boosting,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 16:12:43
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP (wrong water injection)
>> The
Spearco injects a mist of water into the air
>> box whenever it sees
boost of more than 6 psi.
>> This keeps temps down.
> RICH
!!!! What are you doing here ? "Spraying
> water INTO THE AIR BOX ??" You
know, the first
> what will go is the MAS as the water droplets
>
(the mist is not fine enough with the Spearco)
> .....
I'm sure
Rich meant injecting the water into the Y-pipe and not into the
airbox and
just mis-stated it. Both Curt and Oskar (the two people he
mentions
helping him with it) know and understand how the water injection
setup
works.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 23:20:49
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP (wrong water injection)
Yep, we already
cleared the things up and for sure the guys know how to
install the stuff :-)
I wonder how big the water tank must be for the the
road tracks
!!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> I'm sure Rich meant
injecting the water into the Y-pipe and not into the
> airbox and just
mis-stated it. Both Curt and Oskar (the two people he
> mentions
helping him with it) know and understand how the water injection
> setup
works.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 17:21:03
EST
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: 8th Annual Norwalk DSM Shootout
94 3000 VR4
Mike
Murray
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 17:26:26
EST
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: 8th Annual Norwalk DSM Shootout
Yeah I heard it was a great time
there, and I will definitely be there to
give Vinny a hard time too next
year ! I was sorry that I couldnt make it
this year, for those who want some
info there is an article in january issue
of sport compact car, with Jack
and Vineets victories. haha Were coming to
get ya bud !
P.S. sorry
about the empty post
94 3000 VR4
Mike (itchy mouse finger)
Murray
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 16:25:17
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP (wrong water injection)
> Yep, we
already cleared the things up and for sure the guys
> know how to install
the stuff :-) I wonder how big the
> water tank must be for the the road
tracks !!
Good point - I hadn't considered that. I go through a
full tank (about a
half gallon or so) of water per tank of gas. I drive
aggressively, however
I don't sustain boost for more than a few seconds at a
time. On a road
course you'd be on the boost a lot more than in a
street situation. I'd
probably want to switch the injection tank to be
the winshield washer fluid
bottle to be able to use the low fluid indicator
on the dash.
A person could use the Spearco tank for washer fluid if
there was a reason
to retain the windshield washers. That could be
mounted inside the car if
you wanted to keep the engine bay
uncluttered. You definitely want the
water injection tank as close as
possible to the Y-pipe in order to keep the
hose length as short as you
can.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 16:46:46
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP (wrong water injection)
At 04:25 PM
12/4/00 -0600, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
>> Yep, we already cleared the
things up and for sure the guys
>> know how to install the stuff :-) I
wonder how big the
>> water tank must be for the the road tracks
!!
>
I use water from the windshield wiper tank to cool the brake
rotors, and
the Spearco has its own water tank.
I was planning to put
a big tank (2-3 gal) in the back, laying down in the
trunk trays. Or
maybe in the spare tire well -- something flexible that I
can fill up
trackside and add ice from the cooler. Then, I'll run a hose
from there to
the windshield washer and Spearco tanks. Whenever either
tank empties,
I'll pump water from the back to the front -- maybe even
automatically,
using a simple level switch and a 12 V motor.
With all that water
available, maybe I can spray some on the intercoolers.
Rich/old
poop.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 16:01:19
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Parts for sale and looking for 99 VR-4
What GTS is this that
does 12s?
On Mon, 4 Dec 2000, Rick Diogo wrote:
> Still have a
new set of 9b factory Vr-4 (or Dodge Stealth) turbos for
> sale.
They are new in the box---never used or installed. Make Offer.
>
> Also, finally got a chance to take the new 00' GTS out to the track
> (finally have over 600miles on it) for some baseline runs before I
start to
> do some mods. We had enough time for 4 passes. Passes
were as follows:
>
> 12.6@118mph
> 12.6@119mph
>
12.6@120mph
> 12.3@122mph
>
> These runs were made at Moroso
motorsports park in Palm Beach, FL on
> 11/22. The first three
passes were all with 2.3 short times. The last one
> was a 2.1
short time (60ft time). The reason the E.T's are not so great is
>
because the tires were spinning through at least half of second gear and
> well into third. (and trust me folks....this track is STICKY).
Only thing
> I installed on the car are the K&N drop in
filters. (these are factory ACR
> filters). There were no
Vr-4's or Stealths but tons and tons of Mustangs
> and Camaros. One
Supra TT (ran a 13.5 @107 according to my buddy Ralph who
> was
spectating) and a yellow Z06 vette. (appeared all stock). Ran a
>
12.8@111mph
>
> My buddy also asked me to post a message to see if
anyone has (or knows of
> any) 99 Vr-4's for sale. He is not going
to be picky on the color. We are
> located in south Florida. He
wants one with less than 20k miles if
> possible. I am still a
Stealth/VR-4 lover (always will be). Only reason I
> sold my 1994 6
speed TT was because I just could not get the thing to run
> the way it
should. I think it had to do with the fact that I could not
>
get a datalogger to work with it. I hope you guys find someway of getting
> the 94/95 cars to work. <Matt, you listening!?> :)
>
> Take Care,
> Rick Diogo
> 2000 Viper GTS -black on black
(no stripes)
> ex-Stealth TT owner- Pearl Yellow 6 speed
> Go
Mopar.
>
> PS: I have time slips scanned if anyone wants to
take a peek. Please email
> privately.
>
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 19:17:27
-0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Parts for sale and looking for 99 VR-4
Geoff Mohler
wrote:
> What GTS is this that does 12s?
Every Viper GTS since
their introduction in 1996 has been capable of ~12.2 @ 120
with 450hp/490ft
lbs on tap (460hp for the ACR and GT-2). Rick did extremely
well for
his first time out with a 12.3 @ 122.
Congrats.
Joe
Gonsowski
> On Mon, 4 Dec 2000, Rick Diogo wrote:
>
> >
Also, finally got a chance to take the new 00' GTS out to the track
> >
(finally have over 600miles on it) for some baseline runs before I start
to
> > do some mods. We had enough time for 4 passes. Passes were
as follows:
> >
> > 12.6@118mph
> >
12.6@119mph
> > 12.6@120mph
> >
12.3@122mph
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 18:47:19
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Parts for sale and looking for 99 VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
Rick Diogo <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
>
What GTS is this that does 12s?
Take a look at his signature
!! ]Below]
========================================
-
--- with it. I hope you guys find someway of getting
> >
the 94/95 cars to work. <Matt, you listening!?> :)
> >
> > Take Care,
> > Rick Diogo
> > 2000 Viper GTS
-black on black (no stripes)
> > ex-Stealth TT owner- Pearl Yellow 6
speed
> > Go Mopar.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 15:19:21
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Parts for sale and looking for 99 VR-4
> I think it had to
do with the fact that I could not
> get a datalogger to work with
it. I hope you guys
> find someway of getting the 94/95 cars to
work.
> <Matt, you listening!?> :)
Yes, I'm
listening... I got most of my components to get started
with
programming a datalogger. It'll take time, but I should have
something
ready in the spring. I won't have easy access to the car over
the winter,
so I'll probably wire it up on my girlfriend's '97 Avenger to
test the
logging functions to compare the readings with my OBD-II logger that
works
on her car. My other vehicle is a '93 Ford Ranger, so no logging
available
on that guy to compare with (at least not a logger that I'm willing
to buy
for this little experiment).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 19:15:13
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Team Help w/safe HP (wrong water injection)
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
I was planning to put a big tank (2-3 gal) in the back, laying down in
the
> trunk trays. Or maybe in the spare tire well -- something flexible
that I
> can fill up trackside and add ice from the cooler. Then, I'll run
a hose
> from there to the windshield washer and Spearco tanks.
Whenever either
> tank empties, I'll pump water from the back to the front
I'll probably end up with pretty much the same setup and I was thinkin
that
moving the battery to the back [ Optima ] and adding a couple of
gallons of
water/alcohol in place of the battery and washer bottle. If I run
alcohol as in
Buick GN boys I'll probably put in a aluminum tank to prevent
potential fire
hazards in the engine bay, a mini fuel cell would be
best.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 23:10:12
-0800
From: "Dusan Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Borla...
Hello,
I was wondering if I would see any
performance increase on my base '92
Stealth if I had Borla exhaust system
installed... Plus, where do I find a
system for my car (car parts? model
nmber?)
Thank you!
Best Regards
Dusan Simovic
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 22:21:57
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mail processing hiccup
There was a minor downtime (10 minutes)
while the mail server, and RAID
server (netapp box) were upgraded to
Gigabit.
All is well, hope nobody gotta bounce.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 04:17:16
-0500
From: Nick Xiong <
nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
AWD Torque Split ACTUAL
nah I have seen Mitsu state such a thing, when I
find it I'll scan it for
u.
On Sat, 2 Dec 2000 03:17:45 -0800 (PST)
Jeff Lucius
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
writes:
> It seems the myth of the 45/55 split started in the
magazines
> (probably based of front and rear diff ratios) as nowhere
does
> Mitsubishi state such a thing that I have seen.
________________________________________________________________
GET
INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for
less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 10:41:57
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Water Injection (tank)
> > I was planning to put a big
tank (2-3 gal) in the back, laying down in the
> > trunk trays.
Or maybe in the spare tire well -- something flexible that I
> > can
fill up trackside and add ice from the cooler. Then, I'll run a hose
>
> from there to the windshield washer and Spearco tanks. Whenever
either
> > tank empties, I'll pump water from the back to the
front
AFAIK, the Spearco neeeds a prepressurized tank, right ? If so,
then the
tank in the rear may cause a problem or an intelligent solution
must be
found !! It is VERY important that the water sprayed before the TB
is of a
very fine mist and for this high pressure is needed. If this falls
down,
the water becomes droplets what really hurts valves and pistons
(beside of
the TB).
>I'll probably end up with pretty much the
same setup and I was thinkin that
>moving the battery to the back [ Optima
] and adding a couple of gallons of
>water/alcohol in place of the
battery and washer bottle.
Definitely a food idea, but again the bigger
the tank the more problems in
pressurizing it (vinyl tanks are really soft).
It is definitely a better
idea to get a high pressure pump that sprays the
water than the Spearco
pump with pre-pressurized tank.
> If
I run alcohol as in
>Buick GN boys I'll probably put in a aluminum tank to
prevent potential fire
>hazards in the engine bay, a mini fuel cell would
be best.
Yes, this can be pressurized. The GN guys do mostly run 55% H20
and 45%
alcohol as this seems to be the best result between additional fuel
needed
and cooling the chambers. Such a mixture is definitely less danger
than
pure alcohol. I run about 20% alcohol in the cold days and pure water
as
there is no additional energy needed (720cc IDC is at 55%)
Here's
a link to another WI/AI System
http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/SteveCkit.html
I don't know if it
comes with a pump but it hase some more safety functions
than many others !
The longer I think a pressure control in such systems is
needed too. I
myself am now using several check systems including water
pressure (the
Autometer fuel pressure sensor works perfect with water).
Here's a note
from Aquamist :
Treat water injection as part of your
standard OE equipment, check the
water level regularly (I have a sensor in
my tank), fitting a water
pressure gauge is the first step (Autometer fuel
pressure). Monitoring the
water pressure has other advantages such as early
warning of a blocked jet,
if the water pressure progressively increased for
no reason, it is a sign
of the beginning of a blockage.
Man, I just
don't know where I should put all the gauges in !!!
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 03:54:37
-0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Water Injection (tank)
Roger Gerl wrote:
> Here's a
link to another WI/AI System
>
http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/SteveCkit.html
I don't know if it
> comes with a pump but it hase some more safety
functions than many others
I've got that kit but I haven't installed it
yet. The pump comes with it and it's
integrated into the tank. No need to
plumb it separately.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.17@116.392 GMC Typhoon
13.96@96.4*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 02:10:40
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Water Injection (tank)
The spearco system pressurizes the
tank with manifold pressure..this way
the nozzle pump doesnt have to work
against boost..similar to the 1:1 rise
in the FPR system.
On Tue, 5
Dec 2000, Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> > > I was planning to put
a big tank (2-3 gal) in the back, laying down in the
> > >
trunk trays. Or maybe in the spare tire well -- something flexible that
I
> > > can fill up trackside and add ice from the cooler. Then,
I'll run a hose
> > > from there to the windshield washer and
Spearco tanks. Whenever either
> > > tank empties, I'll pump
water from the back to the front
>
> AFAIK, the Spearco neeeds a
prepressurized tank, right ? If so, then the
> tank in the rear may cause
a problem or an intelligent solution must be
> found !! It is VERY
important that the water sprayed before the TB is of a
> very fine mist
and for this high pressure is needed. If this falls down,
> the water
becomes droplets what really hurts valves and pistons (beside of
> the
TB).
>
> >I'll probably end up with pretty much the same setup
and I was thinkin that
> >moving the battery to the back [ Optima ]
and adding a couple of gallons of
> >water/alcohol in place of
the battery and washer bottle.
>
> Definitely a food idea, but
again the bigger the tank the more problems in
> pressurizing it (vinyl
tanks are really soft). It is definitely a better
> idea to get a high
pressure pump that sprays the water than the Spearco
> pump with
pre-pressurized tank.
>
> > If I run alcohol as in
>
>Buick GN boys I'll probably put in a aluminum tank to prevent potential
fire
> >hazards in the engine bay, a mini fuel cell would be
best.
>
> Yes, this can be pressurized. The GN guys do mostly run
55% H20 and 45%
> alcohol as this seems to be the best result between
additional fuel needed
> and cooling the chambers. Such a mixture is
definitely less danger than
> pure alcohol. I run about 20% alcohol in
the cold days and pure water as
> there is no additional energy needed
(720cc IDC is at 55%)
>
> Here's a link to another WI/AI System
>
http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/SteveCkit.html
I don't know if it
> comes with a pump but it hase some more safety
functions than many others !
> The longer I think a pressure control in
such systems is needed too. I
> myself am now using several check systems
including water pressure (the
> Autometer fuel pressure sensor works
perfect with water). Here's a note
> from Aquamist :
>
>
Treat water injection as part of your standard OE equipment, check the
>
water level regularly (I have a sensor in my tank), fitting a water
>
pressure gauge is the first step (Autometer fuel pressure). Monitoring the
> water pressure has other advantages such as early warning of a blocked
jet,
> if the water pressure progressively increased for no reason, it is
a sign
> of the beginning of a blockage.
>
> Man, I just
don't know where I should put all the gauges in !!!
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 08:29:30
-0500
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: Team3S: FW:
Hesitation
> I still don't know what to make of my hesitation
problem. Now I am
> starting
> to think that it isn't the ECU
since it's been much more than 30 miles
> since
> it started
happening. I drove more than 30 miles just to get the thing
>
home
> from where the timing belt was serviced. There's that and it
needed to be
> reset after the timing belt was replaced.
>
> Basically what happens is the car will miss and hesitate when I start
to
> accelerate, either from a standing start or after down shifting
(its
> basically happens at higher loads at higher RPM's). It almost
seems to me
> that the timing isn't being advanced properly or the
increase need for
> fuel
> isn't being met or injected at the proper
time. Since I had my timing
> belt
> replaced it might be easy
to say that it was not properly timed but the
> car
> was having
this problem before the belt was replaced. One interesting
>
fact
> is that the problem isn't as bad when the engine is cold.
Another fact is
> that the engine will on occasion start to correct and
run smoothly after
> it
> hesitates for a while.
>
> If it isn't the ignition timing, could it be that the engine is
running
> lean? The next chance I get I will pull the plugs and see
how they look.
> Sometimes I need to ask the stupid questions first like
could it be
> possible
> that all I need to do is replace the fuel
filter? Another thing I have
> noticed is the exhaust pipes have
been looking rather black. Could it be
> that it is running too fat
instead of lean? Or could it be the raw fuel
> that wasn't consumed
in the combustion chamber when the car was missing?
>
>
Thanks for your help, this whole thing is starting to get me frustrated.
>
It
> seems I can't get the 'need fixed' list eliminated.
>
> Michael Donnelly
> 94' R/T TT
> Stock, 1-2 syncro needs
replaced, hesitation
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 07:06:31
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team Help w/safe HP
If you guys want **longevity** AND
400-420+ HP you better install
forged pistons, larger turbos, larger
injectors, larger fuel pump,
and an ARC2 or VPC (along with all the standard
intake and exhaust
stuff). Running the stock injectors continually past
85%-90% IDC
(assuming the stock fuel pump can keep up) is asking for a
momentary
lean condition in one or more injectors at some time and
resulting
piston havoc. The only cure is larger injectors and pump; maybe
DSM
450s, a larger pump, and an AFC will do (cheapest route). The
stock
cast pistons will certainly fail with prolonged 400+ HP
cylinder
chamber pressures and temps. Stock turbos suck, 15Gs (or similar)
are
the solution. Of course, you can always run her till she breaks
and
then do the right thing. :)
Combustion chamber temps can be
controlled easily with an ARC2 or WI;
the boost level really is not a factor.
High chamber **pressures**
though are unavoidable, they come with the HP and
small displacement.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"anscray" <
anscray@mediaone.net>; "3S" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, December 04, 2000 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Team Help w/safe
HP
> My goal is to reach 400HP w/o reducing longevity of the
engine as
best I
>can..
Me, too. I am looking for 400-450
RELIABLE horsepower, and here is
what I am planning.
First, realize
that the big bad dude in all this is high combustion
chamber temperature
resulting from high boost, which burns pistons
and
rings.
<snip>
Rich/old
poop
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 10:21:02
-0500
From: Rick Diogo <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Parts for sale and looking for 99 VR-4
2000 Dodge Viper
GTS. With decent tires they go 11's from factory. The
Michelin
Pilots that it comes with are terrible, hence my poor E.T.'s.
In fact, the
guy that wrote the # on the windshield and rear window said
"If you go 11's
you're out of here!" Apparently you have to have a full
roll cage if
you are in the 11's!
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>What GTS is this that
does 12s?
>On Mon, 4 Dec 2000, Rick Diogo
wrote:
>
> > Still have a new set of 9b factory Vr-4 (or Dodge
Stealth) turbos for
> > sale. They are new in the box---never
used or installed. Make Offer.
> >
> > Also, finally got
a chance to take the new 00' GTS out to the track
> > (finally have
over 600miles on it) for some baseline runs before I
> start to
>
> do some mods. We had enough time for 4 passes. Passes were as
follows:
> >
> > 12.6@118mph
> > 12.6@119mph
>
> 12.6@120mph
> > 12.3@122mph
> >
> > These runs
were made at Moroso motorsports park in Palm Beach, FL on
> >
11/22. The first three passes were all with 2.3 short times. The
last
> one
> > was a 2.1 short time (60ft time). The
reason the E.T's are not so
> great is
> > because the tires
were spinning through at least half of second gear and
> > well into
third. (and trust me folks....this track is STICKY). Only thing
>
> I installed on the car are the K&N drop in filters. (these are
factory
> ACR
> > filters). There were no Vr-4's or
Stealths but tons and tons of Mustangs
> > and Camaros. One Supra
TT (ran a 13.5 @107 according to my buddy Ralph
> who
> > was
spectating) and a yellow Z06 vette. (appeared all stock). Ran a
>
> 12.8@111mph
> >
> > My buddy also asked me to post a
message to see if anyone has (or knows of
> > any) 99 Vr-4's for
sale. He is not going to be picky on the color. We
>
are
> > located in south Florida. He wants one with less than 20k miles
if
> > possible. I am still a Stealth/VR-4 lover (always will
be). Only
> reason I
> > sold my 1994 6 speed TT was
because I just could not get the thing to run
> > the way it
should. I think it had to do with the fact that I could not
>
> get a datalogger to work with it. I hope you guys find someway of
getting
> > the 94/95 cars to work. <Matt, you listening!?>
:)
> >
> > Take Care,
> > Rick Diogo
> >
2000 Viper GTS -black on black (no stripes)
> > ex-Stealth TT owner-
Pearl Yellow 6 speed
> > Go Mopar.
> >
> > PS:
I have time slips scanned if anyone wants to take a peek. Please
>
email
> > privately.
> >
> >
> >
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 10:44:41
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dragstrip rules for cars (was Parts for sale and look ing for 99
VR-4)
Curiously I don't know if Jack T's car has a roll cage and he has
been in
the 10s with nitrous or 11s without. Does he have a rollcage or
is this
rule governed by each track or race (like does the DSM Shootout have
a
general rule that anything under a time have a rollcage)?
And is
there a distinction between roll bar, partial roll cage, and a full
roll
cage? I'm new to much of the drag rules so it is a general rule
to
inform the list.
Nice time regardless there Rick. How about
managing to plumb your stock
twin turbos onto the Viper. Not THAT would
be scary fast!
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, Magnecor 8.5 wires, and a custom spark
plug
plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Diogo [
mailto:rick@ceo-consulting.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, December 05, 2000 10:21 AM
To: Geoff Mohler
Cc:
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Parts for sale and looking for 99 VR-4
2000 Dodge
Viper GTS. With decent tires they go 11's from factory. The
Michelin Pilots that it comes with are terrible, hence my poor E.T.'s.
In
fact, the guy that wrote the # on the windshield and rear window said
"If
you go 11's you're out of here!" Apparently you have to have a full
roll cage if you are in the 11's!
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>What
GTS is this that does 12s?
>On Mon, 4 Dec 2000, Rick
Diogo wrote:
>
> > Still have a new set of 9b factory Vr-4 (or
Dodge Stealth) turbos for
> > sale. They are new in the
box---never used or installed. Make Offer.
> >
> > Also,
finally got a chance to take the new 00' GTS out to the track
> >
(finally have over 600miles on it) for some baseline runs before I
>
start to
> > do some mods. We had enough time for 4 passes.
Passes were as follows:
> >
> > 12.6@118mph
> >
12.6@119mph
> > 12.6@120mph
> > 12.3@122mph
>
>
> > These runs were made at Moroso motorsports park in Palm Beach,
FL on
> > 11/22. The first three passes were all with 2.3 short
times. The last
> one
> > was a 2.1 short time (60ft
time). The reason the E.T's are not so
> great is
> >
because the tires were spinning through at least half of second gear and
>
> well into third. (and trust me folks....this track is STICKY).
Only
thing
> > I installed on the car are the K&N drop in
filters. (these are factory
> ACR
> > filters).
There were no Vr-4's or Stealths but tons and tons of
Mustangs
> >
and Camaros. One Supra TT (ran a 13.5 @107 according to my buddy Ralph
> who
> > was spectating) and a yellow Z06 vette.
(appeared all stock). Ran a
> > 12.8@111mph
> >
> >
My buddy also asked me to post a message to see if anyone has (or
knows
of
> > any) 99 Vr-4's for sale. He is not going to be
picky on the color. We
> are
> > located in south Florida.
He wants one with less than 20k miles if
> > possible. I am still
a Stealth/VR-4 lover (always will be). Only
> reason I
> >
sold my 1994 6 speed TT was because I just could not get the thing
to
run
> > the way it should. I think it had to do with
the fact that I could not
> > get a datalogger to work with it. I
hope you guys find someway of
getting
> > the 94/95 cars to work.
<Matt, you listening!?> :)
> >
> > Take
Care,
> > Rick Diogo
> > 2000 Viper GTS -black on black (no
stripes)
> > ex-Stealth TT owner- Pearl Yellow 6 speed
> > Go
Mopar.
> >
> > PS: I have time slips scanned if anyone
wants to take a peek. Please
> email
> > privately.
>
>
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 13:42:06
-0500
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: EVC IV Problems, I think
I've started to have problems
controlling my boost. I'm using an HKS EVC IV
boost controller that's been
working fine for over 2 years. I could set it
for 14.5psi, and that's
what my boost gauge would peak at ---- every time.
But lately, the boost is
very inconsistent. Sometimes it hits 15psi, and
twice it's jumped up as high
as 16.5psi with the same setting that I've
always used to get 14.5psi.
I tried decreasing the boost setting on the
controller, but it still
inconsistently goes over 15psi. This is really
starting to concern me,
because if I boost more than 15psi at high rpm, I
get fuel cut (I think) and
the car jerks violently. That can't be good on
the drive train!
The
only things I can think of are maybe a vacuum leak somewhere, or maybe
I need
to reset the controller and calibrate it all over again. What about
that
little filter that's in-line with the vacuum hose that goes to the
solenoid,
could it be partially stopped up or something? Any ideas,
thoughts, or
suggestions? Could the problem lie entirely elsewhere? Where
should I
start?
Jeff W.
'92 VR4.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 13:04:29
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: EVC IV Problems, I think
> The only things I can think of
are maybe a vacuum leak
> somewhere, or maybe I need to reset the
controller
> and calibrate it all over again. What about
> that
little filter that's in-line with the vacuum hose that
> goes to the
solenoid, could it be partially stopped up
> or something?
Check
all the hoses that hook to the boost control system. Check the
"H"
connector if you kept that on the car, as it can crack from age.
Especially
check any hose that runs near the engine, check the ends of the
hoses to see
if they are hard or brittle and replace any hose that's the
least bit
suspicious. The filters with the HKS can get clogged, but
should be seeing
filtered air with maybe just a bit of oil. Shouldn't
really be enough
particles of stuff to clog them up.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 15:41:08
-0500
From: "brandon thomas" <
a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Using DSM parts???
I have heard we can use some of the DSMs parts
on our cars. I was wondering
if all DSM's had 450cc injectors. I have also
heard that their blow off
valve is better. I was just wonding how hard it is
to make work with our
cars and if it vents to the atmosphere. I know
where there are 6 or 7
salvaged DSMs with cheap parts. Would it be worth it
to pull these parts
off, if so what should I expect to
pay?
_____________________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 15:41:50
-0500
From: "brandon thomas" <
a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Using DSM parts???
I have heard we can use some of the DSMs parts
on our cars. I was wondering
if all DSM's had 450cc injectors. I have also
heard that their blow off
valve is better. I was just wonding how hard it is
to make work with our
cars and if it vents to the atmosphere. I know
where there are 6 or 7
salvaged DSMs with cheap parts. Would it be worth it
to pull these parts
off, if so what should I expect to
pay?
Thanks,
Brandon Thomas
1992
Vr4
_____________________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 14:52:33
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Using DSM parts???
> I have heard we can use some of the
DSMs parts on
> our cars. I was wondering if all DSM's had 450cc
>
injectors. I have also heard that their blow off
> valve is better. I was
just wonding how hard it
> is to make work with our cars and if it vents
to
> the atmosphere. I know where there are 6 or 7
> salvaged
DSMs with cheap parts. Would it be
> worth it to pull these parts off, if
so what
> should I expect to pay?
Only turbo DSMs with manual
transmissions have the 450cc injectors, the ones
on the automatic tranny cars
are smaller 380cc injectors which should be
avoided.
The 1st
generation DSMs have a better factory blowoff valve (actually a
compressor
bypass valve) than the 3/S cars. The 2nd gen DSM BOV is similar
in
design to the 3/S valve and sucks just as bad. If you grab one of
the
DSM valves, be forwarned that you'll need to fabricate a flange and weld
a
1" long section of pipe to the flange to mount it on a 3/S car. It
doesn't
vent to atmosphere, it vents back into the intake same as the 3/S
valve does
- - which is preferable in most situations.
Probably pay
about $20-30 for a DSM BOV, and maybe $150 for the fuel
injectors (don't
forget you need six, so you'll need to tear down two DSM
cars to get enough -
luckily it is easy on those). I don't think I would
pull injectors off
a scrapyard car though. If you do, then you'll want to
send them to RC
Engineering or someplace similar and get them cleaned and
flow-matched for
$80 or however much it'll cost. Dried, crusty, dirty
injectors could
wreck your motor pretty quickly.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#340
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