team3s
Sunday, November 26
2000 Volume 01
: Number
333
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Nov 2000 17:18:32 +0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Picture of fuses boxes
Would someone have a link to a picture of
the fuse boxes so that i can
locate and pull the active aero fuse and stop
the screeching please?
(japanese import so I can't read the box)
A
picture would be fine too.
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 09:51:41
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: bedding in porterfields
> I just installed a new set of
cryto-treated porterfield rotors and
> porterfield carbon kevlar
pads. No directions came with the parts, and
> I'm wondering what
the bed-in procedure would be for this set-up?
> Something like lots of
hard breaking at low to mid speeds for the first
> 500
miles?
Proper bedding is extremely important for the life of a new
rotors. Improper
bedding can increase the chance of
warping.
When new rotors are installed, drive around with them for a few
days using light
braking. You want to go through a few minimal heat
cycles and mate the pad
surfaces to the rotor. After a few days, do a
few hard stops from 80 to 10 mph
or so to heat them up all the way (if you
have new pads, outgas them now by
doing 6-8 stops or until you get brake
fade). Then drive home and park the car
(leave the emergency brake off)
and let them cool completely. After you've
heated the rotors and before
you park, you don't want to stop the car and have
your foot on the brake,
i.e. you don't want to get stuck at a traffic light.
You want to drive home
using gentle braking without ever stopping completely.
Good
luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San
Diego, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 11:12:40
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Picture of fuses boxes
+> Would someone have a link to a
picture of the fuse boxes so that i can
+> locate and pull the active aero
fuse and stop the screeching please?
+> (japanese import so I can't read
the box)
+>
+> A picture would be fine too.
+>
+>
Thanks
+> Gordon
+> Dublin, Ireland
+>
+>
+>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
- --------
I decided this might be useful for others as
well so I made the pic
and put it up on my site.. I have NO IDEA if
yours is the same
layout being an imported model..
http://ucsu.Colorado.EDU/~monarchd/3000gt/fuses.jpgDave
=======================
=
95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 13:46:15
-0500
From: "Andy Carberry" <
acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Question on the Crank shafts on our cars
I was at a friends the
other night an a mechanic friend of his was saying
that my 93 VR4 has a weak
crank and that he has changed several of them for
other peoplein the
past. He told me that it was 94 + that have the better
cranks.
Instead of arguing with him I just let it be. I thought that the
93+
VR4 had the 4 bolt main motor, meaning the better crank . I was
just
wondering it someone could straiten this out for
me.
Thanks,
Andy Carberry
93 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 12:28:07
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Question on the Crank shafts on our cars
The way I understand it not all
'93s were created equal, but I can't back
this up. At some point in '93
(be it the beginning or part way through) the
4 bolt crank came into
being. They are as tough as they come. To be
certain, '94 on has
the "good" crank, but there are a number of '93s, if not
all, that have this
same crank.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Andy Carberry
> Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 11:46
AM
> To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Question on the Crank shafts on our
cars
>
>
> I was at a friends the other night an a
mechanic friend of his was saying
> that my 93 VR4 has a weak crank and
that he has changed several
> of them for
> other peoplein the
past. He told me that it was 94 + that have the better
>
cranks. Instead of arguing with him I just let it be. I thought that
the
> 93+ VR4 had the 4 bolt main motor, meaning the better crank .
I was just
> wondering it someone could straiten this out for
me.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy Carberry
> 93
VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 13:37:46
-0800
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Bad TPS = decrease in mileage?
Okay, I know a bad O2 sensor decreases gas
mileage, but would a bad O2
sensor cause a hesitation below 3k revs?
I've heard a bad TPS can cause a
hesitation, but would it decrease gas
mileage as well? I have a hesitation
below 3k revs AND I have bad gas
mileage. I don't particularly want to
replace 2 O2 sensors and a TPS,
so what do you guys think? Would a leak in
the BOV also cause
this?
Thanks,
Chris M.
92 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 07:11:42
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: urgent car alarm help
I just sent this message a few days ago,
this IS the fix for your
problem!
Good luck!
Ken
- --------
Original Message --------
Subject: Team3S: Alarm system FIX
Date: Fri, 17
Nov 2000 09:41:08 -0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Organization: 3SI
Rochester
To: 3SI Rochester <
3siroch@fdntech.com>,Team3S
Stealth
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Hello
everyone
Hope this helps if anyone is having intermittent problems with
their
alarm system. I found this out on my car, and then tried it on one
of
the other cars in my group (Jason =) and it worked! Here
goes!
If your alarm intermittently works, goes off randomly, and
especially if
your dome light works intermittently, the fix is sooo easy
-
Open each door, and in the lower rear part of the body, there is
the
sensor that tells the car the door is open/closed. It is just under
a
little rubber cover that slides right off. This switch doesn't seem
to
ground well sometimes. Pull it out (phillips screw), scrape up
the
contacts on it a little bit, and put it back in being sure to snug
up
the screw tight - this is the ground! Clean up any dirt, rust, etc
too
- - that's real important.
Do it to both doors, then try the alarm
again - bet it will work!
Give me feedback if you find this
works/doesn't!
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester
(NY)
__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 14:21:05
-0800
From: Ian Marks <
ianmarks@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: re: team3s - SHIFTER PROBLEMS
Does anyone have any insights on
this:
My car is very tricky to get into reverse (even after multi-clutching)
and
now the shifter will pass beyond 5th (to the right of the 'gate'). If
I'm
not careful I'll push it past 5th and miss the shift - (Oh
the
embarassment!).
I've got the six-speed Getrag and I've got a warranty
but I don't think it's
actually the tranny.
Thanks
Ian Marks
'94
RT-Turbo
Los Angeles
- --
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 04:28:55
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad TPS = decrease in mileage?
Hi Chris,
I am not sure
if bad O2 sensors and/or TPS would solve your problems
but these devices are
very easy to check for proper operation before
just switching them out (not
that easy for O2 sensors). The TMO will
work if you have one, or you can tap
into the ECU connector to
monitor their responses (very easy and safe when
done properly). The
TPS can be checked directly also. The manual explains TPS
voltage and
resistance repsonses to plate position. The O2 sensors should
cycle
repetitively and smoothly between close to 0.1 volts to close to
0.9
volts about 1 time every second or 2 after the engine is
warm
depending on RPM. If nothing else, you can eliminate these items
as
causes of your problem.
Do you mean the BOV leaking to the
atmosphere? Any leak in the intake
track, if using a MAS, will cause the
engine to run rich and reduced
gas mileage. I would guess that a BOV just
"leaking" air back into
the intake hose would not affect mileage but just
reduce boost
somewhat.
Have you checked the IAC (aka ISC) motor? The
manual explains how.
Have you looked at the spark plugs? Just guessing
here. Believe it or
not some shops and individuals only change the front 3
and say they
did all 6 to avoid the relatively small hassle of removing
the
plenum. The back 3 could be wasted (I have personally seen this on
a
friends TT).
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, November 25, 2000 2:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: Bad TPS = decrease in
mileage?
Okay, I know a bad O2 sensor decreases gas mileage, but would a
bad
O2
sensor cause a hesitation below 3k revs? I've heard a bad TPS
can
cause a hesitation, but would it decrease gas mileage as well?
I
have a hesitation below 3k revs AND I have bad gas mileage. I
don't
particularly want to replace 2 O2 sensors and a TPS, so what do
you
guys think? Would a leak in the BOV also cause
this?
Thanks,
Chris M.
92 R/T
TT
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Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 15:26:14
-0000
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
Folks
A quick question. How do the
rear view mirrors heat? Is it by some
electrical connection? Or is it via hot
air from the air-con system? Reason
I ask is I want to replace the mirror
(glass) with a Gentex auto-dim rear
view system (
http://www.gentex.com) and need to know how the
current
system
works.
eMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comFax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 11:36:00
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
Hot air. Open the door and look at the
side of the dash, you will see the
air connection. I believe it only
works when the defrost button on you
climate control is
on.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: George Shaw <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
To:
Team3S Technical Forum <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Sunday, November 26, 2000 3:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: Heated mirrors
HOW?
>Folks
>
>A quick question. How do the rear view
mirrors heat? Is it by some
>electrical connection? Or is it via hot air
from the air-con system? Reason
>I ask is I want to replace the mirror
(glass) with a Gentex auto-dim rear
>view system (
http://www.gentex.com) and need to know how the
current
system
>works.
>
>eMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.com>Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
>Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
>Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
>ICQ#:
1741675
>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 07:39:08
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question on the Crank shafts on our cars
Andy,
Your
friend is both wrong and right. No DOHC 6G72 turbo motor crank
is weak. The
stock '91-'92 cast iron crank is easily good for a
dependable 500 HP. The
surface-hardened, steel 1993+ cranks (and the
engines) are better
yet.
So how can you tell if your '93 has the better crank and block?
Well
if we new at what engine serial number the 4-bolts started it
would
be easy. Otherwise the Mitsu CAPS program gives a good clue. See
our
Team3S web site for a copy of CAPS thanks to Vineet Singh and
our
admins. Both the crank and block changed part numbers on 9206.1,
which
I am interpreting as June 1992 in the production cycle. Open
the driver's
door and low on the B pillar you should see a production
date on a label. My
1992 TT says Mar 1992. Ahhhh, so close. I guess
I'm stuck with only a 500 HP
crank. :)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Andy Carberry" <
acarberry@snet.net>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, November 25, 2000 11:46 AM
Subject: Team3S: Question on the Crank
shafts on our cars
I was at a friends the other night an a mechanic
friend of his was
saying that my 93 VR4 has a weak crank and that he has
changed
several of them for other peoplein the past. He told me that it
was
94 + that have the better cranks. Instead of arguing with him I
just
let it be. I thought that the 93+ VR4 had the 4 bolt main
motor,
meaning the better crank . I was just wondering it someone
could
straiten this out for me.
Thanks,
Andy Carberry
93
VR4
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 12:29:41
-0500
From: "Bill Miller" <
millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: urgent car alarm help
If I may throw in my 2 cents worth on this,
after you've done what Ken suggests put a little grease
on the contacts to
stop them from corroding again. I did this and it's been working fine for 4
years now. Don't forget to check the hatch switch and the hood switch
too.
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
On 25 Nov 2000, at 7:11, Ken Stanton
wrote:
> I just sent this message a few days ago, this IS the fix for
your
> problem!
> Good luck!
> Ken
>
> --------
Original Message --------
> Subject: Team3S: Alarm system FIX
>
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 09:41:08 -0500
> From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
>
Organization: 3SI Rochester
> To: 3SI Rochester <
3siroch@fdntech.com>,Team3S
Stealth
> <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Hello everyone
>
> Hope this helps if anyone is having
intermittent problems with their
> alarm system. I found this out on my
car, and then tried it on one of
> the other cars in my group (Jason =)
and it worked! Here goes!
>
> If your alarm intermittently
works, goes off randomly, and especially if
> your dome light works
intermittently, the fix is sooo easy -
>
> Open each door, and in
the lower rear part of the body, there is the
> sensor that tells the car
the door is open/closed. It is just under a
> little rubber cover
that slides right off. This switch doesn't seem to
> ground well
sometimes. Pull it out (phillips screw), scrape up the
> contacts on
it a little bit, and put it back in being sure to snug up
> the screw
tight - this is the ground! Clean up any dirt, rust, etc too
> -
that's real important.
>
> Do it to both doors, then try the alarm
again - bet it will work!
>
> Give me feedback if you find this
works/doesn't!
> Thanks!
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl
White RT/TT
> Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>
http://im.yahoo.com>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#333
*********************
