team3s
Saturday, November 25
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
332
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 24 Nov 2000 15:29:22 -0800
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G turbos
Hi again,
by the way, after sending my email
last night I went out and removed the
inlet pipe from the rear turbo,
the nut is still on but there seems to be an
aweful lot of side play in the
bearing, in fact enough so you can feel the
compressor blades rub on the the
housing when rotated and pushed to the
side.
Is this normal?
I
mentioned this to the turbo rebuilder and he said to send them both back
for
checking over. He also said that 15G's are only suitable for 3000GT's
if
you've had alot of headwork done, something to do with operating to close
to
the surge region. What do the experts think about that??
By the way
the housings I think were TD04h
Steve Cooper
http://www.nzgto.cjb.netP.S I WAS
really looking foward to going to a big dragrace meet tomorrow, I
was going
to deal to some big block Hemis, but I think now I'll have to go
and
watch.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.com <
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.com>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, 23 November 2000 08:55
Subject: Re: Team3S: 15G
turbos
>Did you reset your aftermarket blow off valve? If the blow
off valve does
not
>release pressure properly you will get compressor
surge and that nut can
spin
>right off there. Which would damage the
shaft as well while the compressor
is
>trying to suck the nut in. It is
possible to have more damage in the engine
>as well, if any pieces were
thrown through the intercooler and the throttle
>body.
>
>94
3000 VR4
>
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/>Mike
Murray
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 23:45:20
-0800
From: NAME <
devlin@jobe.net>
Subject: Team3S: urgent
car alarm help
Help!!!!!! The car alarm on my 95
3000GT-SL keeps going
> off on its own. I have to leave the doors unlocked
to
> prevent it from happening. Is there a quick fix besides a
>
hammer so I can get some sleep.
> Jim-
Lebanon,Missouri.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 21:50:44
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Houston Raceway Park
My wife and I plan to hang out at HRP
tomorrow night (Friday), and if
anyone happens to be in the area and out
racing..we'll watch for ya.
Specifically we'll watch for Supras, GT4s,
and Stealth/VR4's (Message
BCC'd to other lists).
If its all dried out
and open, we'll be available via 408 595 0742.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 00:16:13
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 15G turbos
I believe that the turbo in front spins clockwise
(the rear one may
too). If the threading on the shaft/nut is "normal", it
will have a
tendency to loosen, especially with larger wheels. I have only
seen
this once, and on a DSM 20g, not a 3/S turbo.
Another problem
could be a mal-adjusted blow off valve. You have an
aftermarket one, if it
isn't set to bleed enough reversion air out to
before the turbo's (or
atmosphere), it can actually cause the turbo to
slow dramatically, and even
spin the other direction a bit coming off
high boost/throttle, to no
throttle. This too can cause the nut to
loosen up.
If you blow one
turbo on our cars, you have likely damaged the other
one as well (if you
continued to drive it semi hard). Think of it as 2
people carrying a 200lb
a/t tranny... now one person unexpectedly
decides to take a break... the
other person will strain for a bit,
then drop the tranny (been there, done
that :). The only good turbo
tries to produce boost, and then gets damaged
from overspinning,
trying to overcome the huge "leak" caused by the failed
turbo.
Lastly, it could have been rebuilt wrong, but that is usually not
the
case... if it came from a reputable turbo shop.
Oh, you should
HOPE that the nut did not get ingested by your
engine... that can be a whole
slew of new problems. = (
Vineet Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on CDROM
Original Message
-----------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 21:51:14
-0800
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: 15G turbos
Hi all,
I just had some rebuilt 15G turbos
fitted ... 14psi and still ok, went
for another
test drive- NO BOOST!! Not
far from home decided to turn home and
check it
out, notice alot of smoke
following me down the road and when I got
home
heard a rattling noise from
the front turbo when I gave it a rev. I
pulled
the inlet hose off the
front turbo, the nut is missing, the compressor
wheel
is damaged and a
part of the threaded shaft dropped to the ground, it
had
sheared off. Too
scared to check the back turbo.
The previous owner of these turbos had
both nuts come undone and I had
just
had the pair of them rebuilt last
week with new compressor wheels and
turbines.
Has anybody else had
this problem and does anyone have any bright
ideas on
why this problem may
have occured.
By the way my mods are as follows:
Custom exhaust-
no cats or pre cats
Split Seccond ARC-2
550cc injectors
Bosch fuel
pump
Dragsport BOV (Gready type R copy)
RPS turbo clutch
Bleeder
Valve
Apexi AVC-R boost controller (old type) - not yet connected
-
--------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 10:52:33
-0000
From: "Martinb" <
martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S:
Extremor website
Hi All
I have finally confirmed the front spoiler on
my 92 GTO TT is an Extremor.
www.berkley.co.ukThe only problem i have
now is trying to find one for a 92 model year.
I have seen them advertised
for 94 up.
Does anyone know the website or a contact for Extremor?
Thanks
in
advance
Martin.
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 11:06:05
-0000
From: "Martinb" <
martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S:
A/F meter advice
Hi All
I see a lot of mail regarding A/F meters and
don't know anything about them.
But from what i can gather, they monitor the
mixture between fuel & air and
give you a reading of lean/rich usually by
LED's
My question is this though, i would be interested in getting such a
unit,
but if you see that you are running rich/lean then can you adjust this
via
the unit or is it a lot more complicated then that?
I thought that the
ECU took care of all of that.
So is it just a monitoring device or can you
make changes?
on anothere quick note, the stock boost guage is c*** and i
would like to
put in an aftermarket type, what are the suggestions from the
group and
where do most people site the new guage?
Sorry for all the
questions.
Thanks in advance
Martin Berkley (UK)
1992 GTO TT (Stock)
except for stainless single big bore racing
exhaust.
________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 05:22:29
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Piston Question
All stock 6G72 engine pistons are cast
aluminum, an industry
standard. If you are considering a piston upgrade,
please check out
my piston upgrade guide from the Garage Page at my web
site.
JE makes excellent pistons (supposedly using TRW forgings) and
is
widely regarded as tops in the industry. However, Ross, Wiseco,
and
Venolia also make excellent pistons. GT-PRO has worked with Ross
to
improve the piston design. You should talk to GT-PRO and the
other
speed shops I list on my Garage Page for advice and
information.
I have Venolia no-silicon forgings installed (0.050"
over-bore) with
a 0.005" piston clearance (stock is about 0.001"). Only on
the
coldest morning do I notice any noise from the pistons and this
is
very minor and disappears quickly (couple hundred feet of driving).
If
you plan to "stress" your engine at all with higher boost levels,
larger
turbos, and A/F controller experimentations - especially since
you cannot
easily monitor knock on the '97 model - you should use
forged
pistons.
Jeff Lucius
--->
http://www.stealth316.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
NassiriC@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, November 22, 2000 3:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Piston
Question
Does anyone know if the stock pistons on a '97 3K
cast or
hypereutectic?
What has been the experience of those using
forged pistons - are
there issues with cold startup/piston noise/proper
sealing?
Thanks
Cyrus
__________________________________________________
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 14:36:22
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A/F meter advice
>I see a lot of mail regarding A/F meters
and don't know anything about them.
>But from what i can gather, they
monitor the mixture between fuel & air and
>give you a reading of
lean/rich usually by LED's
Yes, this is correct in term of how you will
sue it. In reality this is
nothing more than a voltmeter that measures the
voltage of the the O2
sensor (one of the two we have).
>My
question is this though, i would be interested in getting such a
unit,
>but if you see that you are running rich/lean then can you adjust
this via
>the unit or is it a lot more complicated then that?
No,
it is only a meter as it is called. A meter only meters and not
adjusts.
>I thought that the ECU took care of all of
that.
Yes.
>So is it just a monitoring device or can you make
changes?
No changes. Also there is no need to adjust the fuel flow as teh
ECU will
compensate in then. You need a fuel controller when you install
larger
injectors, i.e. changing the fue lsystem.
>on anothere
quick note, the stock boost guage is c*** and i would like to
>put in an
aftermarket type, what are the suggestions from the group and
>where do
most people site the new guage?
Anything you like is ok, maybe not the
Autometer ones as their case is
really too cheap plastic. A good place would
be the A-pillar with a gauge
holder that fits (is available from Autometer).
BTW, the stock boost gauge
shows a calculated boost that results from the
airflow signal and fuel
delivered. This is not really accurate although our
european one seems to
be pretty good but not quick enough.
>Sorry
for all the questions.
That's what the tech list is for :)
Roger,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 05:54:27
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G turbos
>> He also said that 15G's are only suitable
for 3000GT's if
>> you've had alot of headwork done, something to do
with
>> operating to close to the surge region.
Probably not a
problem. Check out the flow maps that Mikael Kenson
supplied to us and that I
added approximate air flow demand lines
(3000 to 7000 RPM) for our engine
(1.5 L for 1 turbo) at
http://www.3si.org/upload/flowmaps.jpg
. The surge line is the
left-most curve. If the engine demands more air than
the turbo can
supply (that is if one of those straight lines lies to the left
of
the surge line) then damge MAY but not necessarily occur to the
bearing
section. Those "demand lines" assume a perfect 100% flow
through the engine,
so in reality the lines would shift slightly to
the left of where drawn.
Basically, surge could occur near 2000 RPM
and boost levels above 14 psi -
not very likely!
BUT, the flow map indicates compressor performance at
various shaft
speeds. Since the shaft speed is determined by the amount of
air and
heat in the exhaust stream, the turbine wheel size and design
(which
varies for different hybrids - 9B, 13G, and 15G turbine wheels
are
used and clipping can be performed), and the housing design (size
and
A/R), these maps can only be used as guidelines for performance.
The
practical surge "line" must be determined for the particular
turbo
hybrid used and the individual (modified) engine. Still, I have
never
heard anyone complain about surge problems with any 15G hybrid
turbo.
Steve, BTW who built those 15G hybrids? Also, could you
take/post
some pictures that show details of the "H" housing so I or others
can
compare them to the stock and "L" housings? Thanks.
Jeff
Lucius
--->
http://www.stealth316.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, November 24, 2000 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 15G turbos
Hi
again,
by the way, after sending my email last night I went out and
removed
the inlet pipe from the rear turbo, the nut is still on but
there
seems to be an aweful lot of side play in the bearing, in fact
enough
so you can feel the compressor blades rub on the the housing
when
rotated and pushed to the side.
Is this normal?
I
mentioned this to the turbo rebuilder and he said to send them both
back for
checking over. He also said that 15G's are only suitable for
3000GT's if
you've had alot of headwork done, something to do with
operating to close to
the surge region. What do the experts think
about that??
By the way
the housings I think were TD04h
Steve Cooper
http://www.nzgto.cjb.net__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of
Products.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 06:23:45
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine size
Without having a block in front of me I had to
use pictures of my old
heads/block and the manual's cross-sections to
guestimate a maximum
over-bore for our 6G72 block. It looks like the coolant
void may be
about 0.25" from the cylinder wall, but it also looks like there
is a
threaded hole or other void only about 0.196" away from the
wall.
My engine was bored over 0.050" for a total displacement of 3056
cc
(186 CI). Stock is 2972 cc (181 CI), 91.1m bore x 76 mm stroke.
Going
to 0.075" over sends displacement to 3100 cc (189 CI) with a 93
mm
bore. To get a 3.2 L (195 CI) engine bore would have to increase
to
94.5252 mm which is 0.135" over-sized. Just guessing, I would say
wall
thickness would be dangerously thin at this point.
I'm sure the 3.5 L
(214 CI) engine uses a custom crank/rod setup
(stroker kit). GK (
http://www.gksystemsracing.com/ )
builds/installs
3.5 L engines in the 3S cars. And of course, that link
(thanks Joe
G.) and over 600 more are on the Links page at my web site.
:)
Jeff Lucius
--->
http://www.stealth316.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: "Team3S list" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, November 22, 2000 12:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: Engine
size
Hi,
Has anyone considered bigger bore pistons to get more
volume? If so
how big is it possible to go? If I remember right someone
posted pics
of a 3.5 liter 3000GT (had direct port NOS) but maybe that engine
had
longer stroke as well...
/Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu__________________________________________________
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Products.
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 12:09:28
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Aluminum racing driveshaft
When I e-mailed them, they claimed
to already have the design and asked for
nothing from me. They told me
it would be at my door in two weeks. Rich
Bauer has one on his stealth
TT. He has been able to get his car to a 12.1
1/4 with the stock (9b)
turbos, so I asked him what his mods were. The only
difference between
his car and everyone elses BPU is an extrudehoned intake,
CF drvshft and an
HKS VPC /AFC set-up with 460cc injectors. He is still
using the stock
clutch and has a 1.7* 60 ft. He claimed the extrudehone
leaned his
mixture out WOT (BC at 18psi\) enough to need bigger injectors.
So, I
concluded that although his driving is clearly excellent, he is
gaining 1/2
second by the extrude hone and the driveshaft. However, since
my car is
a daily driver right now, I wouldn't take the risk to a $1000
driveshaft if a
few rock chips could cause it to fail.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
To: Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, November 22, 2000 5:06 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Aluminum racing
driveshaft
>ACPT when I called over summer wanted me to send them
my
>whole 3 piece driveshaft setup as they did not have the
dimensions
>for EITHER the 91-93 or 94+ cars ready-available to
actually
>BUILD the 2-piece carbon shaft for me on my
94.
>
>They did not even seem to understand the different types of
universal
>joints present on the stock 3 piece version. I was not
impressed with
>their ability to actually produce the shafts; I'm sure
they can and
>supposedly have but does it have to be a one-off special
every
>time, and have to send in the 40lbs or whatever worth of
shafts
>via UPS every time? Sheesh.
>Jack
T.
>
>Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
>> I dont care what they
say..I was a wrench monkey for a speed shop in
>> Houston for a
while..and installed many..and threw away the remains of
>> many
too.
>> On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Sam Shelat wrote:
>> > ACPT
makes a two piece CF one for the VR-4 for $1047+ shipping.
They
told
>> > me vibration would not be a problem in our RPM
band and can withstand
much
>> > more shock then the stock
piece. I am going to e-mail them about what
Geoff
>> > had
mentioned about road debris or daily use.
>> >
Sam
>>
>> > From: Roger Gerl (RTEC) <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>>
> >Geoff, for safety I'd install a loop to prevent any serious
damage.
Also,
>> > >there was no solution yet that got rid of
the damn vibrations that is
>> > >produced by the design (single
one). The carbon driveshaft also had
this
>> > >problem and
the one or two who have them never got rid of the vibs.
With an
>>
> >aluminum ds the vib will become worser over the time compared to
the
carbon
>> > >one and you need rebalancing very
often.
>> > >Hope the product is ok and you will not make the
same experiences as
all
>> > the others did.
>> >
>But what about a two-piece design ?
>> > >Roger
93'3000GT TT
>>
>> > >Von: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>>
> >> I will be having my Alum alloy shaft built for my car within
the
next 2
>> > >> weeks.
>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 12:28:45
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: urgent car alarm help
Guys at 3si.org said something about the
switch in the door jam that lets
the car know the door is shut gets corroded
and loses contact inside. A
little removal and cleaning fixed the
problem for some folks
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: NAME
<
devlin@jobe.net>
To:
'team3S@stealth-3000gt.st' <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, November 24, 2000 5:47 AM
Subject: Team3S: urgent car alarm
help
> Help!!!!!! The car alarm on my 95 3000GT-SL
keeps going
>> off on its own. I have to leave the doors unlocked
to
>> prevent it from happening. Is there a quick fix besides
a
>> hammer so I can get some sleep.
>
>> Jim-
Lebanon,Missouri.
>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 12:36:37
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A/F meter advice
A/F only helps if you upgraded the turbo and
need to know your fuel system
is inadequate or for tuning fuel in once all
the upgrades are done (never
done done, but fuel and turbo). I was told
that an EGT gauge is much better
for tuning cause your EGTs could be
dangerously high while the A/F shows
rich.
I have a 60mm Greddy
electronic boost gauge with peak hold. Great gauge/
looks good and
works excellent, but costs $250. It has a MAP sensor to read
boost and
a settable warning light as well as aforment. peak hold.
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Martinb <
martin@star.co.uk>
To: 300gt mailing
list <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, November 24, 2000 11:11 AM
Subject: Team3S: A/F meter
advice
>Hi All
>I see a lot of mail regarding A/F meters and
don't know anything about
them.
>But from what i can gather, they
monitor the mixture between fuel & air and
>give you a reading of
lean/rich usually by LED's
>My question is this though, i would be
interested in getting such a unit,
>but if you see that you are running
rich/lean then can you adjust this via
>the unit or is it a lot more
complicated then that?
>I thought that the ECU took care of all of
that.
>So is it just a monitoring device or can you make
changes?
>on anothere quick note, the stock boost guage is c*** and i
would like to
>put in an aftermarket type, what are the suggestions from
the group and
>where do most people site the new guage?
>Sorry for
all the questions.
>Thanks in advance
>Martin Berkley
(UK)
>1992 GTO TT (Stock) except for stainless single big bore racing
exhaust.
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>This
message has been checked for all known viruses, by Star
Internet,
>delivered through the MessageLabs Virus Control
Centre.
>For further information visit:
>
http://www.star.net.uk/stats.asp>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 18:23:38
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Active Aero Disaster
I was driving home today and suddenly got 2
long screams from the front
of the car. I initially thought the engine was
about to go bang and
started checking Oil Pressure and temp and then went to
check oil light
and such and saw AERO in red. Screaming stopped and the rear
spoiler
shut off in the down position and now there's no life from
it.
Is this terminal?? If so what do I need to get to fix it
all??
Thanks in advance
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
'93 VR4 (japanese
import)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 19:49:14
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Active Aero Disaster
>and such and saw AERO in red.
Screaming stopped and the rear spoiler
>shut off in the down position and
now there's no life from it.
It's probably only the front end position
switch that fails. You should
check our FAQ to find the link to the AE pages
where some stuff is explained.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 14:54:59
-0800
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
bedding in porterfields
Hello,
I just installed a new set of
cryto-treated porterfield rotors and
porterfield carbon kevlar pads. No
directions came with the parts, and
I'm wondering what the bed-in procedure
would be for this set-up?
Something like lots of hard breaking at low to mid
speeds for the first
500 miles?
Dave
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 01:31:37
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Active Aero Disaster
I've rooted through the FAQ and can't
see any mention of AE stuff. Having said
that. it's 1:29am and I have a
couple (cough, cough) of beers on me. Is there a
fuse I can pull that will
stop the squeel everytime I put the key in the ignition
(I get 3 long
screeches every time) until I sort the switch problem out??
My car is a
japanese import so I can't read any of the fuse covers.
Thanks for the
help
Gordon
Dublin Ireland
Roger Gerl wrote:
> It's
probably only the front end position switch that fails. You should
> check
our FAQ to find the link to the AE pages where some stuff is
explained.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 08:15:47
EST
From:
StealthCT@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Parts
I had no takers for the parts as a group. So I will now let
them go
individually to the highest bidder. Listed below are the parts
that are
available. Please E-Mail me privately. Regards
Charles
15G Turbos (Ported and Clipped)
Alamo
Intercoolers
RC 560 Injectors
Greddy Profec Boost
Controller
Borla Cat Back Exhaust
Custom Pre-Cat Pipes
GT
Pro polished aluminum Y Pipe (never used)
HKS fuel pump
All parts
have less than 4000 Miles on them and are guranteed to be in
excellent
working condition.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#332
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