team3s           Thursday, November 23 2000           Volume 01 : Number 331




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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:13:15 +0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Best clutch for drag race

Hi,

If price isn't an issue which clutch would be the best for drag race?
(modified VR4)

What about OS Giken Twin disc clutch?? ACT? Center force?

/Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu





***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 21:51:26 +0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Intake manifold

When i said right cylinders I ment RIGHT cylinders not front or rear.

- -OOO-
- -OOO-

If the ilustration above ilustrates our engine, looking from the front, then
I ment to ask: Has anyone that doesn't have the stock fuel flow pattern
(right and then turn to left) had any problems with the right cylinders
running leaner than the left ones? If you don't understand how my fuel
system is designed then have a look at my home page http://www.3000gt.nu

Thanks,

Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu





- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>



Transverse V-6 means there is not a right and left but a front and back.  I
know that the #6 cylinder (passenger side corner on a LHD car) receives
least of anything.

Let's not get confused with RHD cars or inline V-6 engines either.  :-)

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mikael Kenson [mailto:vr4@bahnhof.se]
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 2:46 PM
To: Team3S list
Subject: Team3S: Intake manifold

Hello,

Where can I find a higher flowing intake manifold?

Has any one with rebuilt fuel system (cross flow left to right on both
banks) had problems that indicate that the right hand cylinders receive more
air that the left cylinders due to poor intake manifold design?

Thanks,

Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 17:14:20 EST
From: NassiriC@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Piston Question

Does anyone know if the stock pistons on a '97  3K  cast or hypereutectic?

What has been the experience of those using forged pistons - are there issues
with cold startup/piston noise/proper sealing?

Thanks
Cyrus

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 14:17:12 -0800
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S: borla question

I have a '97 SL. I've been looking at cat-back applications. Borla appears
to be a popular choice. However with a little bit of research it turns out
that Borla themselves don't recommend using their own cat-back on anything
other than 91-96. What does this mean? They haven't done testing on a 97+ or
will it need some adjustments to fit right? Thanks.

- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 16:55:14 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Best clutch for drag race

In my experience so far, the current RPS 2900 lb pressure plate with
the six puck (half carbonfiber, half ceramic) disc has worked best, is
easily streetable and drives away from stopsigns without supergrabbiness
and
have-to-rev-motor-way-up etc shenanigans; and
holds all the torque best of any I've used (it has never let me down so
far).  In past, I've used stock, Centerforce, RPS Turbo, RPS all carbon-
with-stock-pressured-plate.  Some have had probs but the nature of this
leads me to believe that it is stronger than all but 1) 2900 lb with all
ceramic or metal pucks and 2) Mueller or OS Giken twindisc, which are
ungodly expensive and being twin discs can be harder on synchros since
they
may not disengage as "cleanly" as a single-- and since our transmissions'

major problem is premature synchro wear, I will stick with this RPS.
Jack Tertadian

Mikael Kenson wrote:

> If price isn't an issue which clutch would be the best for drag race?
> (modified VR4)
> What about OS Giken Twin disc clutch?? ACT? Center force?
> Mikael Kenson


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 17:03:51 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Piston Question

Stock 3000 pistons are cast aluminum with steel strut/inserts for
dimensional control with heating.  Whether the aluminum alloy's
silicon/alloy mix is in the high ("hypereutectic") range, I don't know if
anyone knows for sure, never been advertised to my knowledge
and Mitsu Japan ain't talkin'.

I like JE no silicon pistons best because of past experience with
my Trans AM to their strength (hydraulic'd the motor as the
cylinder wall sleeve let go, which broke the big Crower billet rod in
two but the good 'ol JE piston just has some denting-in!!) and
my current 94 VR4 which went way lean and has a half inch hole in one
with melted aluminum down that side of piston, melted also through
the STEEL RINGS, but piston did not otherwise fail catastrophically
(that was at the Diamond Star Shootout's Sunday all import race).

JE allows closer than usual piston-to-wall clearance, around .030-.035
so the startup piston slap sound sometimes associated with larger
clearance (.060) used by some is minimized.  There are other
good companies as well.

Jack Tertadian


NassiriC@aol.com wrote:

> Does anyone know if the stock pistons on a '97  3K  cast or hypereutectic?
> What has been the experience of those using forged pistons - are there issues
> with cold startup/piston noise/proper sealing?
> Cyrus


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 15:06:48 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

> Who can I call that has a set of honest to GOD Brembo rotors.

Now that I think about, why are you asking this question in the first place?
After all, you lost interest in the brake upgrade research last summer because
you wanted the biggest, baddest brakes you could stuff inside your rims, right?
;)

Anyway, during the research, the most brake knowledgable guy I spoke with was
Terry Gosse at http://www.kvrperformance.com, 800-636-0854.  It would definitely
be worthwhile speaking to him to pick his brain, especially since the call is
free.

The most interesting brake system to date has to be the full contact disc brake
by NewTech, http://www.newtech-ibs.com.

The largest "standard" disk may be the Porsche GT2 Endurance 380mm x 32mm
(http://www.ultimategarage.com).  Other noteworthy disks are the Porsche GT3
330mm x 34mm disk (Ultimate Garage), and the AP Racing 35.5mm disks (KVR,
Stillen).  All of these disks are available as 2 piece rotors in current kits,
or Terry at KVR is able to create a kit with a custom rotor hat and any disk &
caliper you desire at a very fair price.  The above disks are track "bred", have
angled veins for cooling, advanced metalurgy, cast holes, and should be superior
to the standard Brembo rotor.

Good luck with your quest!
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 19:26:46 EST
From: NassiriC@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: RE: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help

An interesting if not informative story about the Diesel issue:

A few years back a big name oil company accidentally filled the gas tanks at
my local airport with Jet A fuel (basically cheap diesel), I filled my
aircraft with the tainted fuel, the aircraft managed to make it out to the
runway, but was running so rough I turned around and came back.  It ran for
20 minutes total on the bad fuel. 

Long story short; a lot of people got the bad fuel before the problem was
discovered.  After a lot of legal battles and expensive independent testing
paid for by the oil company they decided to buy a new engine for everyone. 
This cost them a lot - in my case the bill came to $45,000 + and they had to
replace over 130 engines! 

The independent testing revealed that the internal mechanical parts (rotating
mass) of a gas engine 'could' be damaged by burning a mixture of gas and
diesel - The oil company decided to avoid the obvious liability of having
aircraft fall out of the sky, and shell out the big $$$$.  In the end it was
determined that the chance of diesel doing any real damage was VERY slight -
real damage would only occur if the motor was run under load for more than 15
minutes, and this was only if it was a gas/diesel mix, gas engines won't run
long enough on pure diesel to do any damage.  In fact the people that fueled
up and then only taxied a short distance to their parking spots did not get
new engines, just a fuel system flush, and engine inspection.  The engines
that did run for a while on the bad stuff were torn down and inspected - none
of the engines showed obvious signs of damage with the exception of one fool
that managed to fly his Cessna 310 over 4 1/2 hours on the diesel/gas
mixture, his motors were extensively damaged.

On the flip side:  My neighbor filled her Diesel Suburban up with gas -
completely destroyed the entire motor in a few minutes.

Cyrus

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 18:08:04 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine size

My '94 VR4 is at 3.1l now.  This is easily accommodated without removing
enough cylinder wall meat to matter.  There is a LOT there.  JE forged
pistons were used.

3.6L is also achievable and has been done prior but at much greater cost.
The Montero V6 is basically the same engine as the 3000 series.  I can only
imagine the torque a VR4 would have with 600cc more.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Has anyone considered bigger bore pistons to get more volume? If
> so how big
> is it possible to go? If I remember right someone posted pics of
> a 3.5 liter
> 3000GT (had direct port NOS) but maybe that engine had longer stroke as
> well...
>
> /Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 18:09:51 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-Help!

I'd be willing to bet that the only thing to be worried about is spark plugs
and the catalytic converter.  It may have been damaged enough that its life
is shortened dramatically.  Meaning, although it may be fine now, it may not
be in a short period of time.

The engine seals should be just fine as should the injectors, fuel pump and
lines.

"Back on the farm" we would run a small amount of deisel through gas-pot
tractors now and then.  Diesel is a great detergent compared to petrol and
it helps clean the top end.  I wouldn't do this to my VR4 mind you but the
point is I highly doubt your car has experience any other damage with the
possible exception of what is mentioned above.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Bonnie McLean
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 9:26 AM
> To: 'team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st'
> Subject: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-Help!
>
>
> I filled up my gas tank Sunday-car died within 500 ft.
> Turns out the trucking company filled the premium tank with diesel!
> Car is now at the dealers - they are draining the tank and flushing the
> system.
> But I am getting mixed stories on what parts to be replaced, especially
> regarding
> the catalytic converter-the dealer doesn't think so-they do not even have
> it running yet - an estimate is to be submitted to the trucking
> co. today-I
> just don't want any problems down the line. Help!
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:42:20 EST
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Best clutch for drag race

In a message dated 11/22/2000 5:57:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
xwing@execpc.com writes:

<<
 In my experience so far, the current RPS 2900 lb pressure plate with
 the six puck (half carbonfiber, half ceramic) disc has worked best, is
 easily streetable and drives away from stopsigns without supergrabbiness
 and
 have-to-rev-motor-way-up etc shenanigans; and
 holds all the torque best of any I've used (it has never let me down so
 far).  In past, I've used stock, Centerforce, >>
**********Jack,
             If you don't mind elaborating, why do you like the RPS better
         than the Centerforce DF? I need to replace my stock clutch soon
         and I was deciding between another stock unit and the CFDF. A
         comparison of the clutches from your personal experience would
         go a long way towards helping many of us make this decision.
                                          Thanks,
                                          Wayne
                                '95 Pearl Yellow VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 21:51:14 -0800
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Team3S: 15G turbos

Hi all,

I just had some rebuilt 15G turbos fitted to the car yesterday, went for a
test drive today, OK this morning- boosting to about 11psi (had the bleeder
valve adjusted to keep the pressure down.) Went out tonight for another test
drive turned the pressure up to about 14psi and still ok, went for another
test drive- NO BOOST!! Not far from home decided to turn home and check it
out, notice alot of smoke following me down the road and when I got home
heard a rattling noise from the front turbo when I gave it a rev. I pulled
the inlet hose off the front turbo, the nut is missing, the compressor wheel
is damaged and a part of the threaded shaft dropped to the ground, it had
sheared off. Too scared to check the back turbo.

The previous owner of these turbos had both nuts come undone and I had just
had the pair of them rebuilt last week with new compressor wheels and
turbines.

Has anybody else had this problem and does anyone have any bright ideas on
why this problem may have occured.

By the way my mods are as follows:

Custom exhaust- no cats or pre cats
Split Seccond ARC-2
550cc injectors
Bosch fuel pump
Dragsport BOV (Gready type R copy)
RPS turbo clutch
Bleeder Valve
Apexi AVC-R boost controller (old type) - not yet connected


Steve Cooper,
http://www.nzgto.cjb.net




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:21:25 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine size

>My '94 VR4 is at 3.1l now.  This is easily accommodated without removing
>enough cylinder wall meat to matter.  There is a LOT there.  JE forged
>pistons were used.

This is for sure possible but I'd say 3.2l is the most one can bore out.

>3.6L is also achievable and has been done prior but at much greater cost.

You have not mentioned the risk ! For sure forged rods and really good
(i.e. expensive) stuff must be installed. Overbore to 3.6l needs to get the
walls special treated again (dunno the word in English, sorry)

>The Montero V6 is basically the same engine as the 3000 series.  I can only
>imagine the torque a VR4 would have with 600cc more.

Yes, would be the dream-curve as we loose a lot power/torque in the lower
rpm area due to larger turbos. Displacement is the key or something that
helps to spool the turbos up. The Montero V6 is the same design and block
but after the cast the displacement is already larger and then the walls
are treated the same way as the smaller displacement blocks. The rpms must
then be lowered as Mitsu says the thermal removement of the walls becomes
complicated i nthe high rpm area. Dunno if this is true but sounds true.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:34:52 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 15G turbos

Steve,

>the inlet hose off the front turbo, the nut is missing, the compressor wheel
>is damaged and a part of the threaded shaft dropped to the ground, it had
>sheared off. Too scared to check the back turbo.

I'm sorry to hear about this bad situation. Hopefully the nut or parts did
not made it through the intercoolers !!!

>The previous owner of these turbos had both nuts come undone and I had just
>had the pair of them rebuilt last week with new compressor wheels and
>turbines.

Somebody did not tourqued down the nuts and there seemed to be too much
virbration so the nut became loose and falled off finally. This is bad,
very bad and the compressor side is gone for sure :(( With lots of luck,
the housing is not damaged a lot and can be reused otherwise it will loose
compressor efficiency ! You should blame the shop that just did the rebuild
as they haven't finished the rebuilding job on the turbos properly ! This
is very bad and you should get two new turbos due to this bad work. When
something like this happens, I'd not reuse anything on the turbo but the
turbine and its housing.

Roger, Switzerland
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 07:17:06 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Best clutch for drag race

The centerforce was the first clutch I ever used, once my
stocker went south on my 93 back in the day; dealer installed,
on a NEW flywheel, it lasted all winter but the crappy thing
spun/totally could not take the power on the FIRST drag launch
after 5000 miles of easy wintertime breakin.  No way I go back
to that.
Jack

TTurboAWD@aol.com wrote:

> xwing@execpc.com writes:
>  In my experience so far, the current RPS 2900 lb pressure plate with
>  the six puck (half carbonfiber, half ceramic) disc has worked best, is
>  easily streetable and drives away from stopsigns without supergrabbiness
> and
>  have-to-rev-motor-way-up etc shenanigans; and
>  holds all the torque best of any I've used (it has never let me down so
>  far).  In past, I've used stock, Centerforce, >>
> **********Jack,
>              If you don't mind elaborating, why do you like the RPS better
>          than the Centerforce DF? I need to replace my stock clutch soon
>          and I was deciding between another stock unit and the CFDF. A
>          comparison of the clutches from your personal experience would
>          go a long way towards helping many of us make this decision.
>          Thanks,           Wayne            '95 Pearl Yellow VR4


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 09:43:00 -0500
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: New baby, old strut

Just had my second and final off-spring.  This time its a boy.  Looks like
I'll have some wrench turning assistance after all.  More importantly, the
night before as I was prying by passanger side rear strut off, I
inadvertantly dented the strut tube about an inch up from the bottom.  I'm
assuming its shot.  If I recall, there are no aftermarket alternatives.  If
so, could someone point me in the direction of the cheapest OEM supplier?

Thanks in advance,
Happy Thanksgiving,
Regards,
Dave Trent/92TT/13g's/Eibachs/Nobabyseat


____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now     http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM  1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:42:11 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who? [RTP]

Well, all this talk about brakes, rotors and calipers has got me
thinking. Anyone that has a 91-93 car, if you still have your stock
CALIPERS, and perhaps rotors, I would like to buy them from you for a
nominal fee (these are the "small" brake years afaik). Please contact
me OFFLIST at this email address, stealthtt@ecanfix.com and state the
condition (working would be perferred) and price.

I too have powerslot rotors, and although they are fine the first or
second time you brake in succession, after a hard stop or two, they
just... well SUCK! My steering wheel vibrates so much that passengers
can even notice me trying to wrestle with my damn car.

I would like TWO sets of front calipers (2 lefts and 2 rights). Also,
does anyone else run 17x8 BBS RS2 rims on their car(s)? What's the
largest brakes you can fit under them? I don't know if I can fit even
the 94 brakes and calipers. I will be taking the wheels off and trying
to install them on my friends 94 to see for sure.

Thanks a lot! Remember, stealthtt@ecanfix.com , not "reply to".

Vineet Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM & 3/S Service manuals on CDROM


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:51:16 -0600
From: "Greg S." <wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help

Fuel pump?  It's probably not affected, but why not go for broke?  Especially
after a screw-up of that magnitude.

Greg



cody wrote:

> Honestly, I would have everything fuel related replaced.
>
> To start - flush and fill (not at that station) the gas tank.  replace fuel
> pump.  flush all fuel lines to and from the engine.  replace injectors.
> replace spark plugs.  flush fuel rail.  replace fuel pressure regulator.
>
> Did I miss anything???
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Bonnie McLean
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 11:19 AM
> To: 'team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'
> Subject: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help
>
> Sunday I filled up my gas tank at Union 76, car died 500 ft. after starting.
> Had it towed to the dealer-found out the trucking company had put diesel
> fuel in the wrong pump-so they're flushing the system, BUT
> I am getting conflicting stories on what parts should be replaced,
> specifically
> the catalytic converter-the tanking company is picking up the tab on this-so
> I want it done right-Can I have some input out there? I don't want to be
> stuck
> down the road!!
> Bonnie McLean
> bonnie@benhamad.com
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 11:52:15 EST
From: COMETOTHEZOO@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 15G turbos

Did you reset your aftermarket blow off valve? If the blow off valve does not
release pressure properly you will get compressor surge and that nut can spin
right off there. Which would damage the shaft as well while the compressor is
trying to suck the nut in. It is possible to have more damage in the engine
as well, if any pieces were thrown through the intercooler and the throttle
body.

94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/
Mike Murray

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 11:58:20 EST
From: COMETOTHEZOO@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine size

What years montero v6 block is compatible?

94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/
Mike Murray

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 11:10:19 -0800
From: "pops" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: New baby, old strut

Trent

Congratulations --- I think --- my youngest is 32 and I can't imagine having
miniature people around again.

It isn't necessarily a problem ---- the outer tube is just a reservoir for the oil
and may not affect operation.

        Jim Berry
===============================================
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Trent
  To: Team 3S
  Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 6:43 AM
  Subject: Team3S: New baby, old strut


  Just had my second and final off-spring.  This time its a boy.  Looks like
  I'll have some wrench turning assistance after all.  More importantly, the
  night before as I was prying by passanger side rear strut off, I
  inadvertantly dented the strut tube about an inch up from the bottom.  I'm
  assuming its shot.  If I recall, there are no aftermarket alternatives.  If
  so, could someone point me in the direction of the cheapest OEM supplier?

  Thanks in advance,
  Happy Thanksgiving,
  Regards,
  Dave Trent/92TT/13g's/Eibachs/Nobabyseat


  ____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
  Download Now     http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
  Request a CDROM  1-800-333-3633
  ___________________________________________________________

  ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 12:04:54 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New baby, old strut

Hey, Dave (and Becky),

Congrats on the new tax deduction!  And Happy Thanksgiving, all...

I don't know if you need a new tube (see Jim's post), but if you do...
Most folks seem to get the best OEM prices from the following suppliers.
Make sure to mention Team3S or 3SI to get the group discount.

Tallahassee Mitsubishi, 2417 W. Tennessee St., Tallahassee, FL 32304,
888-825-5648.  Ask for Shawn or Jeremy.
http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits/   tallmits@mindspring.com

Norco Mitsubishi, Hamner St., North Corona, CA, 888-689-1788.  Ask for
Bill or Paul.
www.norcomits.com   mitsparts@pe.net

Best,

Forrest


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: "Team 3S" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 6:43 AM
Subject: Team3S: New baby, old strut


> Just had my second and final off-spring.  This time its a boy.  Looks
like
> I'll have some wrench turning assistance after all.  More importantly,
the
> night before as I was prying by passanger side rear strut off, I
> inadvertantly dented the strut tube about an inch up from the bottom.
I'm
> assuming its shot.  If I recall, there are no aftermarket
alternatives.  If
> so, could someone point me in the direction of the cheapest OEM
supplier?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Happy Thanksgiving,
> Regards,
> Dave Trent/92TT/13g's/Eibachs/Nobabyseat






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