team3s
Thursday, November 23
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
331
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:13:15 +0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Best
clutch for drag race
Hi,
If price isn't an issue which clutch
would be the best for drag race?
(modified VR4)
What about OS Giken
Twin disc clutch?? ACT? Center force?
/Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 21:51:26
+0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Intake manifold
When i said right cylinders I ment RIGHT cylinders not
front or rear.
- -OOO-
- -OOO-
If the ilustration above
ilustrates our engine, looking from the front, then
I ment to ask: Has anyone
that doesn't have the stock fuel flow pattern
(right and then turn to left)
had any problems with the right cylinders
running leaner than the left ones?
If you don't understand how my fuel
system is designed then have a look at my
home page
http://www.3000gt.nuThanks,
Mikael
Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Transverse
V-6 means there is not a right and left but a front and back. I
know
that the #6 cylinder (passenger side corner on a LHD car) receives
least of
anything.
Let's not get confused with RHD cars or inline V-6 engines
either. :-)
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark
plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mikael Kenson [
mailto:vr4@bahnhof.se]
Sent: Wednesday,
November 22, 2000 2:46 PM
To: Team3S list
Subject: Team3S: Intake
manifold
Hello,
Where can I find a higher flowing intake
manifold?
Has any one with rebuilt fuel system (cross flow left to right
on both
banks) had problems that indicate that the right hand cylinders
receive more
air that the left cylinders due to poor intake manifold
design?
Thanks,
Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 17:14:20
EST
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Piston Question
Does anyone know if the stock pistons on a
'97 3K cast or hypereutectic?
What has been the experience of
those using forged pistons - are there issues
with cold startup/piston
noise/proper sealing?
Thanks
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 14:17:12
-0800
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S:
borla question
I have a '97 SL. I've been looking at cat-back
applications. Borla appears
to be a popular choice. However with a little bit
of research it turns out
that Borla themselves don't recommend using their
own cat-back on anything
other than 91-96. What does this mean? They haven't
done testing on a 97+ or
will it need some adjustments to fit right?
Thanks.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc.
(ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart.kurek@eli.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 16:55:14
-0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Best clutch for drag race
In my experience so far, the current RPS 2900
lb pressure plate with
the six puck (half carbonfiber, half ceramic) disc has
worked best, is
easily streetable and drives away from stopsigns without
supergrabbiness
and
have-to-rev-motor-way-up etc shenanigans; and
holds
all the torque best of any I've used (it has never let me down so
far).
In past, I've used stock, Centerforce, RPS Turbo, RPS all
carbon-
with-stock-pressured-plate. Some have had probs but the nature
of this
leads me to believe that it is stronger than all but 1) 2900 lb with
all
ceramic or metal pucks and 2) Mueller or OS Giken twindisc, which
are
ungodly expensive and being twin discs can be harder on synchros
since
they
may not disengage as "cleanly" as a single-- and since our
transmissions'
major problem is premature synchro wear, I will stick with
this RPS.
Jack Tertadian
Mikael Kenson wrote:
> If price
isn't an issue which clutch would be the best for drag race?
> (modified
VR4)
> What about OS Giken Twin disc clutch?? ACT? Center force?
>
Mikael Kenson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 17:03:51
-0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Piston Question
Stock 3000 pistons are cast aluminum with steel
strut/inserts for
dimensional control with heating. Whether the
aluminum alloy's
silicon/alloy mix is in the high ("hypereutectic") range, I
don't know if
anyone knows for sure, never been advertised to my
knowledge
and Mitsu Japan ain't talkin'.
I like JE no silicon pistons
best because of past experience with
my Trans AM to their strength
(hydraulic'd the motor as the
cylinder wall sleeve let go, which broke the
big Crower billet rod in
two but the good 'ol JE piston just has some
denting-in!!) and
my current 94 VR4 which went way lean and has a half inch
hole in one
with melted aluminum down that side of piston, melted also
through
the STEEL RINGS, but piston did not otherwise fail
catastrophically
(that was at the Diamond Star Shootout's Sunday all import
race).
JE allows closer than usual piston-to-wall clearance, around
.030-.035
so the startup piston slap sound sometimes associated with
larger
clearance (.060) used by some is minimized. There are
other
good companies as well.
Jack Tertadian
NassiriC@aol.com wrote:
> Does
anyone know if the stock pistons on a '97 3K cast or
hypereutectic?
> What has been the experience of those using forged
pistons - are there issues
> with cold startup/piston noise/proper
sealing?
> Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 15:06:48
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?
> Who can I call that has a set of
honest to GOD Brembo rotors.
Now that I think about, why are you asking
this question in the first place?
After all, you lost interest in the brake
upgrade research last summer because
you wanted the biggest, baddest brakes
you could stuff inside your rims, right?
;)
Anyway, during the
research, the most brake knowledgable guy I spoke with was
Terry Gosse at
http://www.kvrperformance.com,
800-636-0854. It would definitely
be worthwhile speaking to him to pick
his brain, especially since the call is
free.
The most interesting
brake system to date has to be the full contact disc brake
by NewTech,
http://www.newtech-ibs.com.
The
largest "standard" disk may be the Porsche GT2 Endurance 380mm x 32mm
(
http://www.ultimategarage.com).
Other noteworthy disks are the Porsche GT3
330mm x 34mm disk (Ultimate
Garage), and the AP Racing 35.5mm disks (KVR,
Stillen). All of these
disks are available as 2 piece rotors in current kits,
or Terry at KVR is
able to create a kit with a custom rotor hat and any disk &
caliper you
desire at a very fair price. The above disks are track "bred",
have
angled veins for cooling, advanced metalurgy, cast holes, and should be
superior
to the standard Brembo rotor.
Good luck with your quest!
-
--
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 19:26:46
EST
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: RE: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help
An interesting if
not informative story about the Diesel issue:
A few years back a big name
oil company accidentally filled the gas tanks at
my local airport with Jet A
fuel (basically cheap diesel), I filled my
aircraft with the tainted fuel,
the aircraft managed to make it out to the
runway, but was running so rough
I turned around and came back. It ran for
20 minutes total on the bad
fuel.
Long story short; a lot of people got the bad fuel before
the problem was
discovered. After a lot of legal battles and expensive
independent testing
paid for by the oil company they decided to buy a new
engine for everyone.
This cost them a lot - in my case the bill came
to $45,000 + and they had to
replace over 130 engines!
The
independent testing revealed that the internal mechanical parts (rotating
mass) of a gas engine 'could' be damaged by burning a mixture of gas and
diesel - The oil company decided to avoid the obvious liability of having
aircraft fall out of the sky, and shell out the big $$$$. In the end
it was
determined that the chance of diesel doing any real damage was VERY
slight -
real damage would only occur if the motor was run under load for
more than 15
minutes, and this was only if it was a gas/diesel mix, gas
engines won't run
long enough on pure diesel to do any damage. In fact
the people that fueled
up and then only taxied a short distance to their
parking spots did not get
new engines, just a fuel system flush, and engine
inspection. The engines
that did run for a while on the bad stuff were
torn down and inspected - none
of the engines showed obvious signs of damage
with the exception of one fool
that managed to fly his Cessna 310 over 4 1/2
hours on the diesel/gas
mixture, his motors were extensively
damaged.
On the flip side: My neighbor filled her Diesel Suburban
up with gas -
completely destroyed the entire motor in a few
minutes.
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 18:08:04
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Engine size
My '94 VR4 is at 3.1l now. This is easily accommodated
without removing
enough cylinder wall meat to matter. There is a LOT
there. JE forged
pistons were used.
3.6L is also achievable and
has been done prior but at much greater cost.
The Montero V6 is basically the
same engine as the 3000 series. I can only
imagine the torque a VR4
would have with 600cc more.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Has anyone considered
bigger bore pistons to get more volume? If
> so how big
> is it
possible to go? If I remember right someone posted pics of
> a 3.5
liter
> 3000GT (had direct port NOS) but maybe that engine had longer
stroke as
> well...
>
> /Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 18:09:51
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-Help!
I'd be willing to bet
that the only thing to be worried about is spark plugs
and the catalytic
converter. It may have been damaged enough that its life
is shortened
dramatically. Meaning, although it may be fine now, it may not
be in a
short period of time.
The engine seals should be just fine as should the
injectors, fuel pump and
lines.
"Back on the farm" we would run a
small amount of deisel through gas-pot
tractors now and then. Diesel is
a great detergent compared to petrol and
it helps clean the top end. I
wouldn't do this to my VR4 mind you but the
point is I highly doubt your car
has experience any other damage with the
possible exception of what is
mentioned above.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Bonnie McLean
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 9:26
AM
> To:
'team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st'>
Subject: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT
dead-Help!
>
>
> I filled up my gas tank Sunday-car died
within 500 ft.
> Turns out the trucking company filled the premium tank
with diesel!
> Car is now at the dealers - they are draining the tank and
flushing the
> system.
> But I am getting mixed stories on what
parts to be replaced, especially
> regarding
> the catalytic
converter-the dealer doesn't think so-they do not even have
> it running
yet - an estimate is to be submitted to the trucking
> co. today-I
>
just don't want any problems down the line. Help!
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:42:20
EST
From:
TTurboAWD@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Best clutch for drag race
In a message dated 11/22/2000 5:57:17 PM
Eastern Standard Time,
xwing@execpc.com writes:
<<
In my experience so far, the current RPS 2900 lb pressure plate
with
the six puck (half carbonfiber, half ceramic) disc has worked
best, is
easily streetable and drives away from stopsigns without
supergrabbiness
and
have-to-rev-motor-way-up etc shenanigans;
and
holds all the torque best of any I've used (it has never let me
down so
far). In past, I've used stock, Centerforce,
>>
**********Jack,
If you don't mind elaborating, why do you like the RPS
better
than the Centerforce
DF? I need to replace my stock clutch
soon
and I was deciding
between another stock unit and the CFDF.
A
comparison of the clutches
from your personal experience
would
go a long way towards
helping many of us make this
decision.
Thanks,
Wayne
'95 Pearl Yellow VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 21:51:14
-0800
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: 15G turbos
Hi all,
I just had some rebuilt 15G turbos
fitted to the car yesterday, went for a
test drive today, OK this morning-
boosting to about 11psi (had the bleeder
valve adjusted to keep the pressure
down.) Went out tonight for another test
drive turned the pressure up to
about 14psi and still ok, went for another
test drive- NO BOOST!! Not far
from home decided to turn home and check it
out, notice alot of smoke
following me down the road and when I got home
heard a rattling noise from
the front turbo when I gave it a rev. I pulled
the inlet hose off the front
turbo, the nut is missing, the compressor wheel
is damaged and a part of the
threaded shaft dropped to the ground, it had
sheared off. Too scared to check
the back turbo.
The previous owner of these turbos had both nuts come
undone and I had just
had the pair of them rebuilt last week with new
compressor wheels and
turbines.
Has anybody else had this problem and
does anyone have any bright ideas on
why this problem may have
occured.
By the way my mods are as follows:
Custom exhaust- no
cats or pre cats
Split Seccond ARC-2
550cc injectors
Bosch fuel
pump
Dragsport BOV (Gready type R copy)
RPS turbo clutch
Bleeder
Valve
Apexi AVC-R boost controller (old type) - not yet
connected
Steve Cooper,
http://www.nzgto.cjb.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:21:25
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine size
>My '94 VR4 is at 3.1l now. This is
easily accommodated without removing
>enough cylinder wall meat to
matter. There is a LOT there. JE forged
>pistons were
used.
This is for sure possible but I'd say 3.2l is the most one can bore
out.
>3.6L is also achievable and has been done prior but at much
greater cost.
You have not mentioned the risk ! For sure forged rods and
really good
(i.e. expensive) stuff must be installed. Overbore to 3.6l needs
to get the
walls special treated again (dunno the word in English,
sorry)
>The Montero V6 is basically the same engine as the 3000
series. I can only
>imagine the torque a VR4 would have with 600cc
more.
Yes, would be the dream-curve as we loose a lot power/torque in the
lower
rpm area due to larger turbos. Displacement is the key or something
that
helps to spool the turbos up. The Montero V6 is the same design and
block
but after the cast the displacement is already larger and then the
walls
are treated the same way as the smaller displacement blocks. The rpms
must
then be lowered as Mitsu says the thermal removement of the walls
becomes
complicated i nthe high rpm area. Dunno if this is true but sounds
true.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:34:52
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 15G turbos
Steve,
>the inlet hose off the front
turbo, the nut is missing, the compressor wheel
>is damaged and a part of
the threaded shaft dropped to the ground, it had
>sheared off. Too scared
to check the back turbo.
I'm sorry to hear about this bad situation.
Hopefully the nut or parts did
not made it through the intercoolers
!!!
>The previous owner of these turbos had both nuts come undone and
I had just
>had the pair of them rebuilt last week with new compressor
wheels and
>turbines.
Somebody did not tourqued down the nuts and
there seemed to be too much
virbration so the nut became loose and falled
off finally. This is bad,
very bad and the compressor side is gone for sure
:(( With lots of luck,
the housing is not damaged a lot and can be reused
otherwise it will loose
compressor efficiency ! You should blame the shop
that just did the rebuild
as they haven't finished the rebuilding job on the
turbos properly ! This
is very bad and you should get two new turbos due to
this bad work. When
something like this happens, I'd not reuse anything on
the turbo but the
turbine and its housing.
Roger,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 07:17:06
-0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Best clutch for drag race
The centerforce was the first clutch I ever
used, once my
stocker went south on my 93 back in the day; dealer
installed,
on a NEW flywheel, it lasted all winter but the crappy
thing
spun/totally could not take the power on the FIRST drag launch
after
5000 miles of easy wintertime breakin. No way I go back
to
that.
Jack
TTurboAWD@aol.com
wrote:
>
xwing@execpc.com
writes:
> In my experience so far, the current RPS 2900 lb pressure
plate with
> the six puck (half carbonfiber, half ceramic) disc has
worked best, is
> easily streetable and drives away from stopsigns
without supergrabbiness
> and
> have-to-rev-motor-way-up etc
shenanigans; and
> holds all the torque best of any I've used (it
has never let me down so
> far). In past, I've used stock,
Centerforce, >>
>
**********Jack,
>
If you don't mind elaborating, why do you like the RPS
better
> than the
Centerforce DF? I need to replace my stock clutch
soon
> and I was
deciding between another stock unit and the CFDF.
A
> comparison of
the clutches from your personal experience
would
> go a long
way towards helping many of us make this
decision.
>
Thanks,
Wayne '95
Pearl Yellow VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 09:43:00
-0500
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New baby, old strut
Just had my second and final
off-spring. This time its a boy. Looks like
I'll have some wrench
turning assistance after all. More importantly, the
night before as I
was prying by passanger side rear strut off, I
inadvertantly dented the strut
tube about an inch up from the bottom. I'm
assuming its shot. If
I recall, there are no aftermarket alternatives. If
so, could someone
point me in the direction of the cheapest OEM supplier?
Thanks in
advance,
Happy Thanksgiving,
Regards,
Dave
Trent/92TT/13g's/Eibachs/Nobabyseat
____________NetZero Free Internet
Access and Email_________
Download Now
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.htmlRequest
a CDROM
1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:42:11
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who? [RTP]
Well, all this talk about brakes,
rotors and calipers has got me
thinking. Anyone that has a 91-93 car, if you
still have your stock
CALIPERS, and perhaps rotors, I would like to buy them
from you for a
nominal fee (these are the "small" brake years afaik). Please
contact
me OFFLIST at this email address,
stealthtt@ecanfix.com and state
the
condition (working would be perferred) and price.
I too have
powerslot rotors, and although they are fine the first or
second time you
brake in succession, after a hard stop or two, they
just... well SUCK! My
steering wheel vibrates so much that passengers
can even notice me trying to
wrestle with my damn car.
I would like TWO sets of front calipers (2
lefts and 2 rights). Also,
does anyone else run 17x8 BBS RS2 rims on their
car(s)? What's the
largest brakes you can fit under them? I don't know if I
can fit even
the 94 brakes and calipers. I will be taking the wheels off and
trying
to install them on my friends 94 to see for sure.
Thanks a lot!
Remember,
stealthtt@ecanfix.com , not
"reply to".
Vineet Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:51:16
-0600
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help
Fuel pump? It's
probably not affected, but why not go for broke? Especially
after a
screw-up of that magnitude.
Greg
cody wrote:
>
Honestly, I would have everything fuel related replaced.
>
> To
start - flush and fill (not at that station) the gas tank. replace
fuel
> pump. flush all fuel lines to and from the engine.
replace injectors.
> replace spark plugs. flush fuel rail.
replace fuel pressure regulator.
>
> Did I miss
anything???
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Bonnie McLean
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 11:19
AM
> To:
'team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'>
Subject: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help
>
>
Sunday I filled up my gas tank at Union 76, car died 500 ft. after
starting.
> Had it towed to the dealer-found out the trucking company had
put diesel
> fuel in the wrong pump-so they're flushing the system,
BUT
> I am getting conflicting stories on what parts should be
replaced,
> specifically
> the catalytic converter-the tanking
company is picking up the tab on this-so
> I want it done right-Can I have
some input out there? I don't want to be
> stuck
> down the
road!!
> Bonnie McLean
>
bonnie@benhamad.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 11:52:15
EST
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: 15G turbos
Did you reset your aftermarket blow off valve? If the
blow off valve does not
release pressure properly you will get compressor
surge and that nut can spin
right off there. Which would damage the shaft as
well while the compressor is
trying to suck the nut in. It is possible to
have more damage in the engine
as well, if any pieces were thrown through
the intercooler and the throttle
body.
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 11:58:20
EST
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Engine size
What years montero v6 block is compatible?
94
3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 11:10:19
-0800
From: "pops" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
New baby, old strut
Trent
Congratulations --- I think --- my
youngest is 32 and I can't imagine having
miniature people around
again.
It isn't necessarily a problem ---- the outer tube is just a
reservoir for the oil
and may not affect
operation.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
-----
Original Message -----
From: Trent
To: Team 3S
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 6:43 AM
Subject: Team3S: New baby,
old strut
Just had my second and final off-spring. This
time its a boy. Looks like
I'll have some wrench turning
assistance after all. More importantly, the
night before as I
was prying by passanger side rear strut off, I
inadvertantly dented
the strut tube about an inch up from the bottom. I'm
assuming
its shot. If I recall, there are no aftermarket alternatives.
If
so, could someone point me in the direction of the cheapest OEM
supplier?
Thanks in advance,
Happy
Thanksgiving,
Regards,
Dave
Trent/92TT/13g's/Eibachs/Nobabyseat
____________NetZero Free
Internet Access and Email_________
Download
Now
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 12:04:54
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New baby, old strut
Hey, Dave (and Becky),
Congrats on the
new tax deduction! And Happy Thanksgiving, all...
I don't know if
you need a new tube (see Jim's post), but if you do...
Most folks seem to get
the best OEM prices from the following suppliers.
Make sure to mention Team3S
or 3SI to get the group discount.
Tallahassee Mitsubishi, 2417 W.
Tennessee St., Tallahassee, FL 32304,
888-825-5648. Ask for Shawn or
Jeremy.
http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits/
tallmits@mindspring.comNorco
Mitsubishi, Hamner St., North Corona, CA, 888-689-1788. Ask for
Bill or
Paul.
www.norcomits.com mitsparts@pe.netBest,
Forrest
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: "Team 3S"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, November 23, 2000 6:43 AM
Subject: Team3S: New baby, old
strut
> Just had my second and final off-spring. This time
its a boy. Looks
like
> I'll have some wrench turning assistance
after all. More importantly,
the
> night before as I was prying
by passanger side rear strut off, I
> inadvertantly dented the strut tube
about an inch up from the bottom.
I'm
> assuming its shot. If I
recall, there are no aftermarket
alternatives. If
> so, could
someone point me in the direction of the cheapest
OEM
supplier?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Happy
Thanksgiving,
> Regards,
> Dave
Trent/92TT/13g's/Eibachs/Nobabyseat
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#331
*********************
