team3s          Wednesday, November 22 2000          Volume 01 : Number 330




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 17:29:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

Suppose I could ask about a 2pc one, and a hoop only helps you if the
shaft breaks where it would be beneficial for the hoop to even -be- there.

SO..being that vibration within a specific narrow RPM band is
un-preventable.._shrug_..who knows.

Ive still seen dozens of snapped CF shafts because people never paid to
have them installed correctly..and wouldnt want to offer any of those for
sale (myself) to the list.

On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Roger Gerl (RTEC) wrote:

> Geoff, for safety I'd install a loop to prevent any serious damage. Also,
> there was no solution yet that got rid of the damn vibrations that is
> produced by the design (single one). The carbon driveshaft also had this
> problem and the one or two who have them never got rid of the vibs. With an
> aluminum ds the vib will become worser over the time compared to the carbon
> one and you need rebalancing very often.
>
> Hope the product is ok and you will not make the same experiences as all the
> others did.
>
> But what about a two-piece design ?
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch
>
>
> -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> An: <gt4@egroups.com>
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. November 2000 04:45
> Betreff: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft
>
>
> > I will be having my Alum alloy shaft built for my car within the next 2
> > weeks.
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 19:27:23 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors (attach is just 21K)

The rotors I've seen from Stillen are made by "Brady"

And isn't the "Brembo" cast into the back of the caliper?


Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 6:51 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Brembo rotors (attach is just 21K)

At 04:03 AM 11/21/00 -0800, Richard wrote:
>I believe dynamic racing also sells the same rotors actually cheaper
>then Stillen who they get them from.

Before you guys get your toga in a knot over some cheap Brembos, permit me
to show you what happens to a Stillen rotor when used on one of our cars
(with due credit to Oskar, who broke the sucker in the first place). I
broke two Powerslot rotors exactly the same way: the hat and the rotor
separate at the weld.

It is my humble opinion that Stillen and Powerslot and other suppliers buy
their rotors from the same place, and it AIN'T BREMBO.  I have
Porsche/Brembo calipers on my car, and there is no doubt that they came
from Brembo, because they are stamped with BREMBO in very big letters on
the back. If any of you still think that Stillen buys blanks from Brembo,
just ask Stillen if Brembo is imprinted on the rotors anywhere. If not,
buyer beware.

Rich/old poop


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 21:33:48 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brembo rotors (attach is just 21K)

I have the same ones on my street car and was disappointed when along with
the rotors came a disclaimer that they were for street use only.  Needless
to say, I warped them after a couple of spirited high speed highway exit
ramp runs.

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 12:56 AM
Subject: Team3S: Brembo rotors (attach is just 21K)


>At 04:03 AM 11/21/00 -0800, Richard wrote:
>>I believe dynamic racing also sells the same rotors actually cheaper
>>then Stillen who they get them from.
>
>Before you guys get your toga in a knot over some cheap Brembos, permit me
>to show you what happens to a Stillen rotor when used on one of our cars
>(with due credit to Oskar, who broke the sucker in the first place). I
>broke two Powerslot rotors exactly the same way: the hat and the rotor
>separate at the weld.
>
>It is my humble opinion that Stillen and Powerslot and other suppliers buy
>their rotors from the same place, and it AIN'T BREMBO.  I have
>Porsche/Brembo calipers on my car, and there is no doubt that they came
>from Brembo, because they are stamped with BREMBO in very big letters on
>the back. If any of you still think that Stillen buys blanks from Brembo,
>just ask Stillen if Brembo is imprinted on the rotors anywhere. If not,
>buyer beware.
>
>Rich/old poop
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 18:37:54 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

Baer Racing claims to be able to supply anything.  I have seen their
selection of calipers from mild through Wilde to downright exotic.  I do not
know what they stock at any given time but they seem to be able to do just
about anything, pocketbook permitting.

The rotors I saw were AP, Brembo and another brand the name of which escapes
me.  All the systems I was looking at would require custom hats and mounting
hardware and cost helluva a lot.  No doubt it is great stuff.

Here's a link:  http://www.baer.com/

After much research I believe the right solution for our cars in a road
racing scenario to be the Porsche branded rotors (better than Brembos, which
can crack under duress) and Porsche (Brembo, but Porsche spec) calipers.
Reasonably priced and likely to perform as well as anything costing up to
three times more.

These guys know brakes too:  http://www.powerhaus.com/ and can supply
Porsche parts.  They race lots.  Again, hats will be custom one-offs unless
you can swindle them out of the other "Big Red" manufacturer.  Or, consider
Brad B's setup which is basically the same thing.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Geoff Mohler
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 10:35 AM
> To: Team3s
> Subject: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?
>
>
> Who can I call that has a set of honest to GOD Brembo rotors.
>
> Going with the advice of my Chief Mechanic (yes, we actually have one) he
> is demanding I get brembo with cross-drill and slotting.  Then he will
> increase the cross drill hole diameter in his own shop.
>
> Weve also ditched the Mueller redhead clutch, and on advice will be using
> a Tilton clutch..about 1/2 the weight of even the redhead and better
> plates.
>
>
> So guess what..I have Jack's Chro-Moly flywheel for sale I just bought.
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 17:41:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

I called stillen, they only have 300Z brembos.

On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Richard wrote:

> I believe dynamic racing also sells the same rotors actually cheaper
> then Stillen who they get them from. They are cheaper retail (the
> middlemen) then Stillen. The Stillen rotors that are stock replacements
> are supposedly Brembro which should be the same as the one's MVP sells.
> I remember getting this from Dusty? I think at MVP.
>
> Rich
>
> Ken Middaugh wrote:
> >
> > > Who can I call that has a set of honest to GOD Brembo rotors.
> > >
> > > Going with the advice of my Chief Mechanic (yes, we actually have one) he
> > > is demanding I get brembo with cross-drill and slotting.  Then he will
> > > increase the cross drill hole diameter in his own shop.
> >
> > Rich posted awhile back that http://www.mvpmotorsports.com sells Brembo rotors
> > for our cars, however they offer cross drilled OR slotted, not both.
> >
> > Good luck,
> > Ken
> >
> > --
> > If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
> >
> > Ken Middaugh            (858) 455-4510
> > General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 17:49:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

I dont care what they say..I was a wrench monkey for a speed shop in
Houston for a while..and installed many..and threw away the remains of
many too.

On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Sam Shelat wrote:

> ACPT makes a two piece CF one for the VR-4 for $1047+ shipping.  They told
> me vibration would not be a problem in our RPM band and can withstand much
> more shock then the stock piece.  I am going to e-mail them about what Geoff
> had mentioned about road debris or daily use.
>
> Sam
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl (RTEC) <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> To: Team3S List <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Date: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 7:23 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft
>
>
> >Geoff, for safety I'd install a loop to prevent any serious damage. Also,
> >there was no solution yet that got rid of the damn vibrations that is
> >produced by the design (single one). The carbon driveshaft also had this
> >problem and the one or two who have them never got rid of the vibs. With an
> >aluminum ds the vib will become worser over the time compared to the carbon
> >one and you need rebalancing very often.
> >
> >Hope the product is ok and you will not make the same experiences as all
> the
> >others did.
> >
> >But what about a two-piece design ?
> >
> >Roger
> >93'3000GT TT
> >www.rtec.ch
> >
> >
> >-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> >An: <gt4@egroups.com>
> >Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. November 2000 04:45
> >Betreff: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft
> >
> >
> >> I will be having my Alum alloy shaft built for my car within the next 2
> >> weeks.
> >
> >
> >
> >***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 17:50:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

Ya..they'll supply anything if I send em a corner suspension assembly from
my car to make stuff from.

They have nothing for us.

On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Barry E. King wrote:

> Baer Racing claims to be able to supply anything.  I have seen their
> selection of calipers from mild through Wilde to downright exotic.  I do not
> know what they stock at any given time but they seem to be able to do just
> about anything, pocketbook permitting.
>
> The rotors I saw were AP, Brembo and another brand the name of which escapes
> me.  All the systems I was looking at would require custom hats and mounting
> hardware and cost helluva a lot.  No doubt it is great stuff.
>
> Here's a link:  http://www.baer.com/
>
> After much research I believe the right solution for our cars in a road
> racing scenario to be the Porsche branded rotors (better than Brembos, which
> can crack under duress) and Porsche (Brembo, but Porsche spec) calipers.
> Reasonably priced and likely to perform as well as anything costing up to
> three times more.
>
> These guys know brakes too:  http://www.powerhaus.com/ and can supply
> Porsche parts.  They race lots.  Again, hats will be custom one-offs unless
> you can swindle them out of the other "Big Red" manufacturer.  Or, consider
> Brad B's setup which is basically the same thing.
>
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> > [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Geoff Mohler
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 10:35 AM
> > To: Team3s
> > Subject: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?
> >
> >
> > Who can I call that has a set of honest to GOD Brembo rotors.
> >
> > Going with the advice of my Chief Mechanic (yes, we actually have one) he
> > is demanding I get brembo with cross-drill and slotting.  Then he will
> > increase the cross drill hole diameter in his own shop.
> >
> > Weve also ditched the Mueller redhead clutch, and on advice will be using
> > a Tilton clutch..about 1/2 the weight of even the redhead and better
> > plates.
> >
> >
> > So guess what..I have Jack's Chro-Moly flywheel for sale I just bought.
> >
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
> >
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 18:59:50 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

They'll make it though which is the point.  They are both local to me
(Phoenix, AZ) but would need the car for a week or so.

It is going to be very difficult to find an off-the-shelf solution except
for Brad's Kit and the other Big Red kit.  If you do locate another kit,
it'll be a good find.  You might see if AP Lockheed has a bolt-up kit, but I
doubt they do.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Ya..they'll supply anything if I send em a corner suspension assembly from
> my car to make stuff from.
>
> They have nothing for us.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 18:14:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

The big-red kit is the ultimate for 99.999999% of 3s owners worldwide.

Its that nice.

When people talk heat/warp/etc you have to take into consideration which
calipers you have as well.  We can get away with less rotor material here
to aid in cooling, because we have a MUCH more efficient caliper.

On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Barry E. King wrote:

> They'll make it though which is the point.  They are both local to me
> (Phoenix, AZ) but would need the car for a week or so.
>
> It is going to be very difficult to find an off-the-shelf solution except
> for Brad's Kit and the other Big Red kit.  If you do locate another kit,
> it'll be a good find.  You might see if AP Lockheed has a bolt-up kit, but I
> doubt they do.
>
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Ya..they'll supply anything if I send em a corner suspension assembly from
> > my car to make stuff from.
> >
> > They have nothing for us.
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 20:52:29 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

After much research, I agree.  We went through this a year ago or so when
Brad came up with his kit.  It is as good as the "Big Red" kit IMO (uses the
same or similar parts) at a much reduced price.

The road course TT Porsches around here (and these guys can use anything
that money can buy) choose the Porsche 320ish mm ventilated disc with the
cast in holes (same diameter as a '94+ VR4) and the bigger calipers for more
swept area and better cooling.  They report rare warpage and manageable
fade.

Although I have drilled rotors on my VR4 (street driven), the best I have
used during racing days past have been cast iron slotted rotors.  Drilled
rotors even with chamfers simply didn't last as long due to eventual and
inevitable hairline fractures around the DRILLED holes (cast won't do this).
Some people even have them break during an event.  Not cool.  The slottted
rotors never exhibited such behavior in the 10 years I used them.

Some otherwise experienced racers will tell you to go with drilled rotors
and to just put up with the inevitability that they will warp or shatter.
This is BS.  Properly slotted or even plain rotors with a proper caliper
will outperform the drilled rotors in longevity and braking.  I prefer
slotted in the rain, plain or slotted under dry conditions with the possible
nod going to slotted for frequent and heavy braking.  The slots may allow
gases to escape a bit quicker which can be important if there isn't much
cooldown time between tight corners.


Barry


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Geoff Mohler
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 7:15 PM
> To: Barry E. King
> Cc: Team3s
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?
>
>
> The big-red kit is the ultimate for 99.999999% of 3s owners worldwide.
>
> Its that nice.
>
> When people talk heat/warp/etc you have to take into consideration which
> calipers you have as well.  We can get away with less rotor material here
> to aid in cooling, because we have a MUCH more efficient caliper.
>
> On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Barry E. King wrote:
>
> > They'll make it though which is the point.  They are both local to me
> > (Phoenix, AZ) but would need the car for a week or so.
> >
> > It is going to be very difficult to find an off-the-shelf
> solution except
> > for Brad's Kit and the other Big Red kit.  If you do locate another kit,
> > it'll be a good find.  You might see if AP Lockheed has a
> bolt-up kit, but I
> > doubt they do.
> >
> >
> > Barry
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
> > > Ya..they'll supply anything if I send em a corner suspension
> assembly from
> > > my car to make stuff from.
> > >
> > > They have nothing for us.
> >
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
> >
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 22:02:30 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

>Although I have drilled rotors on my VR4 (street driven), the best I have
>used during racing days past have been cast iron slotted rotors.  Drilled
>rotors even with chamfers simply didn't last as long due to eventual and
>inevitable hairline fractures around the DRILLED holes (cast won't do this).
>Some people even have them break during an event.  Not cool.  The slottted
>rotors never exhibited such behavior in the 10 years I used them.

Yo, Barry: Is there any reason why we couldn't cut some slots in our stock
rotors?.

I know better than to drill one, but is there any reason why we couldn't
take a Porterfield cyrogenically treated stock rotor to a machine shop and
have them cut five or six slots across the rotor face? It would be just a
straight cut across, perhaps at a 45 deg angle.

Any thoughts out there on this?
What would be the best machine tool to use?
Whaddaya suppose it would cost at a machine shop?

Rich/old poop


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 23:18:49 -0500
From: "Dan Mecier" <dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

Rich,

Porterfield will slot them for you as well.

Dan Mecier
94 3000GT VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 11:03 PM
To: Barry E. King; Team3s
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?


>Although I have drilled rotors on my VR4 (street driven), the best I have
>used during racing days past have been cast iron slotted rotors.  Drilled
>rotors even with chamfers simply didn't last as long due to eventual and
>inevitable hairline fractures around the DRILLED holes (cast won't do
this).
>Some people even have them break during an event.  Not cool.  The slottted
>rotors never exhibited such behavior in the 10 years I used them.

Yo, Barry: Is there any reason why we couldn't cut some slots in our stock
rotors?.

I know better than to drill one, but is there any reason why we couldn't
take a Porterfield cyrogenically treated stock rotor to a machine shop and
have them cut five or six slots across the rotor face? It would be just a
straight cut across, perhaps at a 45 deg angle.

Any thoughts out there on this?
What would be the best machine tool to use?
Whaddaya suppose it would cost at a machine shop?

Rich/old poop


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 21:35:25 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

There are probably a number of shops who can do this but I'd talk to someone
like Porterfield first.

It has to be a precision deal for obvious balance reasons and less obvious
reduction of harmonics which can shatter an otherwise good rotor.

The slots can't be too deep and don't need to be.  They were only a few mm
as I recall.  I settled in on two slots per side at around 45 degrees off
perpendicular, obtuse leading edge, 180 degrees apart on each side
non-overlapping.  I hope that makes sense.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Merritt
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 9:03 PM
> To: Barry E. King; Team3s
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?
>
>
>
> >Although I have drilled rotors on my VR4 (street driven), the best I have
> >used during racing days past have been cast iron slotted rotors.  Drilled
> >rotors even with chamfers simply didn't last as long due to eventual and
> >inevitable hairline fractures around the DRILLED holes (cast
> won't do this).
> >Some people even have them break during an event.  Not cool.
> The slottted
> >rotors never exhibited such behavior in the 10 years I used them.
>
> Yo, Barry: Is there any reason why we couldn't cut some slots in our stock
> rotors?.
>
> I know better than to drill one, but is there any reason why we couldn't
> take a Porterfield cyrogenically treated stock rotor to a machine shop and
> have them cut five or six slots across the rotor face? It would be just a
> straight cut across, perhaps at a 45 deg angle.
>
> Any thoughts out there on this?
> What would be the best machine tool to use?
> Whaddaya suppose it would cost at a machine shop?
>
> Rich/old poop
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 22:27:13 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

>Porterfield will slot them for you as well.

You sure? They say they will drill them, but there is nothing in their
catalog about slotting. I just looked.

Rich



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 22:03:20 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

http://www.kvrperformance.com is in Canada, but they will do cross border
work.  This should not be necessary though.  Maybe they can recommend
someone.

They sell Brembo, AP and their own line.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Merritt
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 9:27 PM
> To: Dan Mecier; Barry E. King; Team3s
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?
>
>
> >Porterfield will slot them for you as well.
>
> You sure? They say they will drill them, but there is nothing in their
> catalog about slotting. I just looked.
>
> Rich
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 22:10:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

I also just WASTED a set of porterfield's on thier R$-E pads too.

Goddamn pads were harder than the rotors, 800 miles is all I got.

Not again..Brembo from here out.

On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Dan Mecier wrote:

> Rich,
>
> Porterfield will slot them for you as well.
>
> Dan Mecier
> 94 3000GT VR-4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Merritt
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 11:03 PM
> To: Barry E. King; Team3s
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?
>
>
> >Although I have drilled rotors on my VR4 (street driven), the best I have
> >used during racing days past have been cast iron slotted rotors.  Drilled
> >rotors even with chamfers simply didn't last as long due to eventual and
> >inevitable hairline fractures around the DRILLED holes (cast won't do
> this).
> >Some people even have them break during an event.  Not cool.  The slottted
> >rotors never exhibited such behavior in the 10 years I used them.
>
> Yo, Barry: Is there any reason why we couldn't cut some slots in our stock
> rotors?.
>
> I know better than to drill one, but is there any reason why we couldn't
> take a Porterfield cyrogenically treated stock rotor to a machine shop and
> have them cut five or six slots across the rotor face? It would be just a
> straight cut across, perhaps at a 45 deg angle.
>
> Any thoughts out there on this?
> What would be the best machine tool to use?
> Whaddaya suppose it would cost at a machine shop?
>
> Rich/old poop
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 18:29:47 -0600
From: "john adams" <johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission Problem

Greetings Jim,

 You've probably already checked the fluid level on the car, but
its worth my mentioning. You should note the condition of it
also: red or pink=good, brown with burnt smell=bad; metal in fluid=bad, or
milky colored
= water or coolant contamination. It seems not all too uncommon that people
will substitute the 7176 fluid with the more widely available dexron or type
f,
which would also cause some problems. A fluid *flush* with filter change
wouldnt harm anything just to be sure. I suppose you should also look for
error codes
using a multimeter and perform a checklist of various things in order to
troubleshoot
it more precisely.  Hopefully it isnt anything that will require pulling it
out and/or
rebuilding it. You should always rule out the easy things first.
 I actually just bought a stealth es 3-4 weeks ago myself with a/t.
 It was running fine and looked fine until recently, when the fluid
started looking like the color of pepto-bismal. I think there
was probably water seapage into the engine compartment initially before i
got it
that caused the low-fluid-like symptoms im experiencing, and not a coolant
leak into the tranny via cooler lines, as there has never been any tracable
coolant loss. Perhaps the wrong fluid was also used.
Has anyone else experienced this opaque pink color under similar
circumstances?
What about having the wrong fluid used in your 4 speed automatic chrysler or
mits. trans?
 Anyway, good luck with it.

john

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim <devlin@jobe.net>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, November 17, 2000 6:04 PM
Subject: Team3S: Transmission Problem


>Hi Guys, I have a problem with my transmission.  I have a
>95 GT-SL with automatic trans.  The car has 83,000 miles on
>it. When I try to pass a car on the highway, the car feels
>like it slips into netrual, the tach revs, then when I let
>off the gas a bit, it catches again. Also when Im driving
>around town, it feels like Im driving a stick shift in
>second gear. The trans acts like its braking or slowing me
>down. Its not making any noises, or clunking when I put it
>into gear. Any help would be great. I just bought the car a
>few weeks ago, so its still under guarantee.
>
>Thanks Jim, Missouri
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 08:30:55 -0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo rotors

And for all of the non-metal intuitive people out there ... if two parts are
welded together then the resulting weld is stronger than the two metal
pieces.  That means that nothing should ever break at a weld (as long as it
is made correctly) and if it does break at the weld then Buyer Beware as
previously stated.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 7:48 PM
To: Richard; Ken Middaugh
Cc: Geoff Mohler; Team3s
Subject: Team3S: Brembo rotors (attach is just 21K)

 << File: brokenrotor.jpg >> At 04:03 AM 11/21/00 -0800, Richard wrote:
>I believe dynamic racing also sells the same rotors actually cheaper
>then Stillen who they get them from.

Before you guys get your toga in a knot over some cheap Brembos, permit me
to show you what happens to a Stillen rotor when used on one of our cars
(with due credit to Oskar, who broke the sucker in the first place). I
broke two Powerslot rotors exactly the same way: the hat and the rotor
separate at the weld.

It is my humble opinion that Stillen and Powerslot and other suppliers buy
their rotors from the same place, and it AIN'T BREMBO.  I have
Porsche/Brembo calipers on my car, and there is no doubt that they came
from Brembo, because they are stamped with BREMBO in very big letters on
the back. If any of you still think that Stillen buys blanks from Brembo,
just ask Stillen if Brembo is imprinted on the rotors anywhere. If not,
buyer beware.

Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 09:30:36 EST
From: OrangeFell@aol.com
Subject: RE: Subject: Team3S: OBD-II Diagnostic Computer availability-

Matt, and to the rest of you who I've recieved emails from, both with
questions and offers of donations, I apologize for my lack in replying the
last couple of days on this- been quite busy.

The first question I'd like to answer is Matt's- whether or not this is the
right peice of hardware for the job.  Yes, it is.  The cartridge included has
been verified correct by calls to two dealers.  The MRP-N(8M) cartridge is
used for all models in the Mitsubish lineup. 

Secondly, as to those offering donations for this in the benefit to the
group, please contact me at my email, and we'll set up arrangements.  Some
have mentioned Paypal and other methods, this is quite acceptable.  Any
donation is appreciated, and the possible gains from this tool outweigh any
price we could pay for it.

Finally, it was mentioned by another that it would be greatly appreciated if
alternate bidding wasn't done against the group bid- IE, the one I'm placing.
 I don't think I need to underscore the value of this tool to everyone with a
second generation car.  It's my intention that this be used as a tool for
all, so that we all gain some good from this computer's purchase.  If you
require this tool's assistance immediately, tell me and I'll have the thing
shipped to you, but so long as the programmers get it in due course.  Since
that's the best way for all to get the goods on this item, I would hope that
would be the group sentiment as I know it is from those who have contacted me
to this point.

Questions or comments, as always, fire away-

Kenneth
orangefell@aol.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 10:40:19 EST
From: GREEN3000GTO@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Off subject

- --part1_bd.91a2a06.274d42e3_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello,
well I tried to fix the text problem that I was having and I am writing to
the group to see if the problem is fix.

Thank you
James

- --part1_bd.91a2a06.274d42e3_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT  SIZE=2>Hello,
<BR>well I tried to fix the text problem that I was having and I am writing to <BR>the group to see if the problem is fix.
<BR>
<BR>Thank you
<BR>James</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_bd.91a2a06.274d42e3_boundary--

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 16:26:37 +0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject: Team3S: Ralliart Tuner in Ireland

After all my pain and effort to find parts and mechanics to fit them
I've finally found a Ralliart Dealer in Ireland.

My prayers have been answered. For those that might not know who
Ralliart are, they're the rally tuning arm of Mitsubishi (Lancer
Evolution VI etc). They're also dealers for HKS so I'm getting a
complete overhaul.

I also met one of the men from HKS in the US, Michael (can't remember
his surname). Nice man with a lot of knowledge about their product.

Just wanted to let anyone in Ireland that's on the list know about this.
Contact me for more details.

Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
Dark Metallic Grey '93 VR4 (Japanese import)
60k miles
Current:
Uprated Fuel pump
HKS EVC IV
K&N Filtercharger

Soon to be:
HKS Exhaust
CAT Bypass
15G's
Fuel Controller


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 16:32:36 +0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject: Team3S: Intercooler Upgrade

Are there noticable gains to be had by upgrading intercoolers?
I have boost up at .75-.8 bar and am pleaseed with the performance
increase.

IF there are good gains (I mean seat of the pants noticable by the way)
what make are teh best to get for a '93 VR4?

Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 17:40:42 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ralliart Tuner in Ireland

>After all my pain and effort to find parts and mechanics to fit them
>I've finally found a Ralliart Dealer in Ireland.

Great... be prepared to pay ££££ :((

>My prayers have been answered. For those that might not know who
>Ralliart are, they're the rally tuning arm of Mitsubishi (Lancer
>Evolution VI etc). They're also dealers for HKS so I'm getting a
>complete overhaul.

An overhaul from HK$ ,what do you mean. ????

BTW, getting the HK$ exhaust from the US directly is finally cheaper than
get them in Europe, even with shipping and VAT ! I hope they will do good
work because allover the continent RallyArt was not able to answer any
questions on the 3000GT !

Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT tT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 08:26:13 -0800
From: Bonnie McLean <bonnie@benhamad.com>
Subject: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-Help!

I filled up my gas tank Sunday-car died within 500 ft.
Turns out the trucking company filled the premium tank with diesel!
Car is now at the dealers - they are draining the tank and flushing the
system.
But I am getting mixed stories on what parts to be replaced, especially
regarding
the catalytic converter-the dealer doesn't think so-they do not even have
it running yet - an estimate is to be submitted to the trucking co. today-I
just don't want any problems down the line. Help!


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 16:55:11 +0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ralliart Tuner in Ireland

>
> Great... be prepared to pay ££££ :((
>

Story of my life :)


>
> An overhaul from HK$ ,what do you mean. ????
>

He's a RalliArt Agent but runs an EVO VI and Corolla rally car and other
rally stuff so he's doing a complete checkup on the car. He has all the
Japanese import equipment for the GTO.


>
> BTW, getting the HK$ exhaust from the US directly is finally cheaper than
> get them in Europe, even with shipping and VAT ! I hope they will do good
> work because allover the continent RallyArt was not able to answer any
> questions on the 3000GT !
>

I'll see what happens when I get a price here and compare. The $ is nearly on
a par with the Irish Pound right now so it's not easy to save that way
anymore.


>
> Good luck
>

Thanks. I'll let you know how I get on. It might be cheaper for you too. Who
knows (miracles can happen you know ;)

Gordon
Dublin, Ireland


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 11:03:17 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Aluminum racing driveshaft

ACPT when I called over summer wanted me to send them my
whole 3 piece driveshaft setup as they did not have the dimensions
for EITHER the 91-93 or 94+ cars ready-available to actually
BUILD the 2-piece carbon shaft for me on my 94.

They did not even seem to understand the different types of universal
joints present on the stock 3 piece version.  I was not impressed with
their ability to actually produce the shafts; I'm sure they can and
supposedly have but does it have to be a one-off special every
time, and have to send in the 40lbs or whatever worth of shafts
via UPS every time?  Sheesh.
Jack T.

Geoff Mohler wrote:

> I dont care what they say..I was a wrench monkey for a speed shop in
> Houston for a while..and installed many..and threw away the remains of
> many too.
> On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Sam Shelat wrote:
> > ACPT makes a two piece CF one for the VR-4 for $1047+ shipping.  They told
> > me vibration would not be a problem in our RPM band and can withstand much
> > more shock then the stock piece.  I am going to e-mail them about what Geoff
> > had mentioned about road debris or daily use.
> > Sam
>
> > From: Roger Gerl (RTEC) <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> > >Geoff, for safety I'd install a loop to prevent any serious damage. Also,
> > >there was no solution yet that got rid of the damn vibrations that is
> > >produced by the design (single one). The carbon driveshaft also had this
> > >problem and the one or two who have them never got rid of the vibs. With an
> > >aluminum ds the vib will become worser over the time compared to the carbon
> > >one and you need rebalancing very often.
> > >Hope the product is ok and you will not make the same experiences as all
> > the others did.
> > >But what about a two-piece design ?
> > >Roger   93'3000GT TT
>
> > >Von: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> > >> I will be having my Alum alloy shaft built for my car within the next 2
> > >> weeks.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 18:06:40 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Intercooler Upgrade

>Are there noticable gains to be had by upgrading intercoolers?
>I have boost up at .75-.8 bar and am pleaseed with the performance
>increase.

No ! With a larger intercooler you will gain no performance at all.
Higher boost means more discharge temp of the turbos. A bigger IC will then
help to cool them down to lower the danger of preignition that causes
detonation. Therefore a big intercooler or any hard pipe will only help
when boost is significantly increased and a larger turbo installed.

>IF there are good gains (I mean seat of the pants noticable by the way)
>what make are teh best to get for a '93 VR4?

Na, forget it for now as the IC comes after the turbo upgrade. And the
turbos you have planned will not give you more performance without larger
injectors. A fuel controller alone doesn't help anything.

Please note, the most mods must go in at the same.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 18:21:18 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ralliart Tuner in Ireland - Thermostat

>Thanks. I'll let you know how I get on. It might be cheaper for you too. Who
>knows (miracles can happen you know ;)

Just ask him about the lower temp RallyArt thermostat. I'm interested in it
but nobody could answer me if it fits the 3S cars !

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 09:19:06 -0800
From: Bonnie McLean <bonnie@benhamad.com>
Subject: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help

Sunday I filled up my gas tank at Union 76, car died 500 ft. after starting.
Had it towed to the dealer-found out the trucking company had put diesel
fuel in the wrong pump-so they're flushing the system, BUT
I am getting conflicting stories on what parts should be replaced,
specifically
the catalytic converter-the tanking company is picking up the tab on this-so
I want it done right-Can I have some input out there? I don't want to be
stuck
down the road!!
Bonnie McLean
bonnie@benhamad.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 12:04:48 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help

Okay, I'll share my experience with my Jeep Grand Cherokee. It was water in
the gasoline rather than diesel fuel.

1.  If the dealer is doing the work, and they know it is an insurance claim,
they will try to replace everything they suspect, which is good for you.

2.  We had the injectors cleaned, the fuel tank drained and flushed, the
fuel filter replaced, the spark plugs replaced, and the oil and filter
replaced because of the possibiltiy of cross contamination by the EGR
system. You might suspect damage to the fuel pump and fuel pressure
regulator, and you might worry about the catalytic converter, except that
you only drove it 500 feet.  If the fuel pump is pumping fuel up to the
proper pressure, you are probably okay.  The dealer should be able to verify
that your fuel delivery system is working according to spec.  If you ran a
long time you might start worrying about the O2 sensor.

3.  The Jeep worked fine after the repairs.

4.  Stick them hard.  We all depend on them to provide reliable fuel.  I bet
you weren't the only one that got a tank of diesel.

Okay, that's my guess!  Flame away Team3si!

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bonnie McLean [SMTP:bonnie@benhamad.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 11:19 AM
> To: 'team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'
> Subject: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help
>
> Sunday I filled up my gas tank at Union 76, car died 500 ft. after
> starting.
> Had it towed to the dealer-found out the trucking company had put diesel
> fuel in the wrong pump-so they're flushing the system, BUT
> I am getting conflicting stories on what parts should be replaced,
> specifically
> the catalytic converter-the tanking company is picking up the tab on
> this-so
> I want it done right-Can I have some input out there? I don't want to be
> stuck
> down the road!!
> Bonnie McLean
> bonnie@benhamad.com
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 10:02:12 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help

Sorry to hear the bad news :(

I can't give a definitive answer, so get the advice from SEVERAL dealers.  It
may be that nothing needs to be replaced, and that a fuel system flush will be
just fine.

Possibly affected items are:
catalytic converter
pre catalytic converters (if you have the twin turbo)
oxygen sensors
fuel filter
injectors

Also consider having the fuel injectors cleaned.

Good luck.

>
> Sunday I filled up my gas tank at Union 76, car died 500 ft. after starting.
> Had it towed to the dealer-found out the trucking company had put diesel
> fuel in the wrong pump-so they're flushing the system, BUT
> I am getting conflicting stories on what parts should be replaced,
> specifically
> the catalytic converter-the tanking company is picking up the tab on this-so
> I want it done right-Can I have some input out there? I don't want to be
> stuck
> down the road!!

- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 12:09:29 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help

Honestly, I would have everything fuel related replaced.

To start - flush and fill (not at that station) the gas tank.  replace fuel
pump.  flush all fuel lines to and from the engine.  replace injectors.
replace spark plugs.  flush fuel rail.  replace fuel pressure regulator.

Did I miss anything???

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Bonnie McLean
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 11:19 AM
To: 'team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'
Subject: Team3S: re: Filled tank with diesel-94 3000GT dead-help


Sunday I filled up my gas tank at Union 76, car died 500 ft. after starting.
Had it towed to the dealer-found out the trucking company had put diesel
fuel in the wrong pump-so they're flushing the system, BUT
I am getting conflicting stories on what parts should be replaced,
specifically
the catalytic converter-the tanking company is picking up the tab on this-so
I want it done right-Can I have some input out there? I don't want to be
stuck
down the road!!
Bonnie McLean
bonnie@benhamad.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:37:04 +0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Removal of AC

Hi,

How much weight can I save by removing all air condition related parts? I
don't want to take away the console in the car since the car doesn't look
stock if I do. Will the display and ventilation work even if I remove AC
compressor etc (except from no cold air...)?

Thanks,

Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:22:03 +0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Engine size

Hi,

Has anyone considered bigger bore pistons to get more volume? If so how big
is it possible to go? If I remember right someone posted pics of a 3.5 liter
3000GT (had direct port NOS) but maybe that engine had longer stroke as
well...

/Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:40:04 +0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Cams

Hi,

How much HP can be gained by using other (custom made) cams on a VR4?

The engine is highly modified and will be ported etc.

Thanks,

Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:46:20 +0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Intake manifold

Hello,

Where can I find a higher flowing intake manifold?

Has any one with rebuilt fuel system (cross flow left to right on both
banks) had problems that indicate that the right hand cylinders receive more
air that the left cylinders due to poor intake manifold design?

Thanks,

Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:29:49 +0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Nitrous oxide

Hello,

I shall install a nitrous oxide for use at launch only (and maybe a short
burst in 3'rd gear..)

What is the best nitrous oxide system for a VR4?

How big shot?

As my car is modified I don't care if it's a complete kit or not.

NOS for example, I have heard that there are different Solenoids available,
which one shall I use?

Thanks,

Mikael Kenson http://www.3000gt.nu


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #330
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