team3s           Tuesday, November 21 2000           Volume 01 : Number 329

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Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 19:25:21 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission Problem

> When I drive at around 50 mph and the A/T is
> in fourth gear, and I push the accelerator
> fully down, one time out of about six the
> same thing happens you describe. However, it
> ONLY happens when in fourth. With the overdrive
> disabled, it never ever occured (so 3-2
> downshifts are always perfect). I had the fluid
> checked and even had the fourth gear parts
> replaced, but no change.

What parts did you replace? This sounds like the same problem I've had with
DSM cars (Eclipse/Talon/Laser) where the clutch pack wears out. Essentially
when it has the problem there's no locking overdrive and the car seems to be
in neutral and the motor revs freely. You could also click it back into
gear by disabling the overdrive. If the clutch pack(s) weren't replaced,
then that's the place I would look next.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 19:45:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

I will be having my Alum alloy shaft built for my car within the next 2
weeks.

Please stay tuned for more information.

Due to the extreme length of the shaft, a diameter of at least 3" will be
required.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 23:21:19 -0500
From: "LabRat" <labrat101@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

Quote: "I will be having my Alum alloy shaft built for my car within the
next 2
weeks."

Who is building it and do you have an initial cost estimate?

Thanks,
JC
92 stealth $$ pit

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 20:22:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

A driveshaft shop I use for my racing activities.

Minimum $340 (what my Supra shafts cost).

On Mon, 20 Nov 2000, LabRat wrote:

> Quote: "I will be having my Alum alloy shaft built for my car within the
> next 2
> weeks."
>
>
>
> Who is building it and do you have an initial cost estimate?
>
>
> Thanks,
> JC
> 92 stealth $$ pit
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***
>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 07:27:13 -0500
From: "LabRat" <labrat101@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

Ok, forgive my lack of racing knowledge but here goes...

Will this eliminate the carrier bearing? as in a straight thru shaft? or
will it also be a two piece shaft like OEM.

How does this compare to OEM, I know its probably lighter and stronger
right? How much lighter? How much stronger?   What about balance and
vibration?   Is this a wise choice for a daily driver car? $350 ish sounds
very reasonable.

Thanks Geoff,

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 06:58:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

The stock propeller shaft is a 3-piece, 4-joint design. For more info
check out the Tech Page at my web site.

I am curious also if this alum. shaft will be 1 piece or not. ACPT
2-piece composite designs go for about $1000 I think.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
--> http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "LabRat" <labrat101@home.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 5:27 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

Ok, forgive my lack of racing knowledge but here goes...

Will this eliminate the carrier bearing? as in a straight thru shaft?
or will it also be a two piece shaft like OEM.

How does this compare to OEM, I know its probably lighter and
stronger right? How much lighter? How much stronger?   What about
balance and vibration?   Is this a wise choice for a daily driver
car? $350 ish sounds very reasonable.

Thanks Geoff,

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 09:06:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

ONE piece, no carriers.

LIke I said..I went from 33lbs to 13 on my supra, and the shaft wasnt
nearly as long.

Balance wont be an issue, but vibration will be at ONE very NARROW band of
RPM, as the shaft reaches its half-critical speed (max critical speed
would destroy the shaft).

Max critical speed is a function of material used, diameter, and length.
Its 8,000 RPM on the Supra, with a minor vibration you can pick out from
about 3900 to 4100rpm at the shafs half-critical speed.

I hope that answers the vibration question..its a vibration physics cant
get rid of..but one that design can mitigate to an RPM range you would
rarely see unless you were accelerating thru it.

So my question still stands.

At 6000rpm engine speed, what is shaft speed in 4th and 5th gears.

On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, LabRat wrote:

> Ok, forgive my lack of racing knowledge but here goes...
>
> Will this eliminate the carrier bearing? as in a straight thru shaft? or
> will it also be a two piece shaft like OEM.
>
> How does this compare to OEM, I know its probably lighter and stronger
> right? How much lighter? How much stronger?   What about balance and
> vibration?   Is this a wise choice for a daily driver car? $350 ish sounds
> very reasonable.
>
>
>
> Thanks Geoff,
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***
>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 09:10:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

And if im not mistaken..you mean CF when you say composite.

The shop I used to work at..I installed dozens if not hundreds of CF
shafts on F-bodies. I also got to see dozens of them shattered in many
pieces because a rock or other chunk of road garbage nicked it..and it
began to unravel or had developed a weak spot.

I dont belive in the composite/CF shafts for street use without a tunnel
to protect it.

On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Jeff Lucius wrote:

> The stock propeller shaft is a 3-piece, 4-joint design. For more info
> check out the Tech Page at my web site.
>
> I am curious also if this alum. shaft will be 1 piece or not. ACPT
> 2-piece composite designs go for about $1000 I think.
>
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
>   --> http://www.stealth316.com/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LabRat" <labrat101@home.com>
> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 5:27 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft
>
> Ok, forgive my lack of racing knowledge but here goes...
>
> Will this eliminate the carrier bearing? as in a straight thru shaft?
> or will it also be a two piece shaft like OEM.
>
> How does this compare to OEM, I know its probably lighter and
> stronger right? How much lighter? How much stronger?   What about
> balance and vibration?   Is this a wise choice for a daily driver
> car? $350 ish sounds very reasonable.
>
> Thanks Geoff,
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
> http://shopping.yahoo.com/
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***
>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 09:34:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

Who can I call that has a set of honest to GOD Brembo rotors.

Going with the advice of my Chief Mechanic (yes, we actually have one) he
is demanding I get brembo with cross-drill and slotting. Then he will
increase the cross drill hole diameter in his own shop.

Weve also ditched the Mueller redhead clutch, and on advice will be using
a Tilton clutch..about 1/2 the weight of even the redhead and better
plates.

So guess what..I have Jack's Chro-Moly flywheel for sale I just bought.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 13:28:31 -0500
From: "ukyo@speedfactory.net" <ukyo@speedfactory.net>
Subject: Team3S: Acceleration "stumble"

List,

I test drove another '91 Stealth RT/TT last night. At $9,995 I am
considering buying it. The thing is the car seems to "stumble" at
3000RPM regardless of what gear I am in. It seems to coincide with
the boost level rising. Once I got past 3000RPM it pulled like a TT
should, but every time I would change gears and land around 3000RPM
it would "stumble". Is there any reason why the car would do this?
The dealer told me it was probably just low grade gas but I don't
really trust dealers. Any ideas from my vague description? At first
I just thought the car was cold (as it was close to 30 degrees
outside) but the "stumle" continued even after the car had warmed up.
I think I may have found yet another TT that I am going to have to
pass on...

- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK / Red)

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 12:37:40 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Acceleration "stumble"

Throttle Position Sensor ... about a hundred bucks for the part
I don't trust dealers either. Tell him he needs to replace it. Wouldn't
low grade gas would give you problems at high speed and high boost?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: ukyo@speedfactory.net [SMTP:ukyo@speedfactory.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 12:29 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Acceleration "stumble"
>
> List,
>
> I test drove another '91 Stealth RT/TT last night. At $9,995 I am
> considering buying it. The thing is the car seems to "stumble" at
> 3000RPM regardless of what gear I am in. It seems to coincide with
> the boost level rising. Once I got past 3000RPM it pulled like a TT
> should, but every time I would change gears and land around 3000RPM
> it would "stumble". Is there any reason why the car would do this?
> The dealer told me it was probably just low grade gas but I don't
> really trust dealers. Any ideas from my vague description? At first
> I just thought the car was cold (as it was close to 30 degrees
> outside) but the "stumle" continued even after the car had warmed up.
> I think I may have found yet another TT that I am going to have to
> pass on...
>
> --Travis
> '97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK / Red)
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 20:22:41 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl $RTEC$" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

> Who can I call that has a set of honest to GOD Brembo rotors.

Sorry, no idea for the US.

> Going with the advice of my Chief Mechanic (yes, we actually have one) he
> is demanding I get brembo with cross-drill and slotting. Then he will
> increase the cross drill hole diameter in his own shop.

This is the most dangerous thing U can do because the drills are between the
vanes and designed for the best possible. Boring them out will increase the
tendency to brake and to warp to about the double (information from Bremsa)
Too much to do this !

Good luck with your "evil" mods.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 20:22:57 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl $RTEC$" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

Geoff, for safety I'd install a loop to prevent any serious damage. Also,
there was no solution yet that got rid of the damn vibrations that is
produced by the design (single one). The carbon driveshaft also had this
problem and the one or two who have them never got rid of the vibs. With an
aluminum ds the vib will become worser over the time compared to the carbon
one and you need rebalancing very often.

Hope the product is ok and you will not make the same experiences as all the
others did.

But what about a two-piece design ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

- -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
An: <gt4@egroups.com>
Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. November 2000 04:45
Betreff: Team3S: Aluminum racing driveshaft

> I will be having my Alum alloy shaft built for my car within the next 2
> weeks.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 11:34:54 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

> Who can I call that has a set of honest to GOD Brembo rotors.
>
> Going with the advice of my Chief Mechanic (yes, we actually have one) he
> is demanding I get brembo with cross-drill and slotting. Then he will
> increase the cross drill hole diameter in his own shop.

Rich posted awhile back that http://www.mvpmotorsports.com sells Brembo rotors
for our cars, however they offer cross drilled OR slotted, not both.

Good luck,
Ken

- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 20:36:08 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl $RTEC$" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Acceleration "stumble"

> Throttle Position Sensor ... about a hundred bucks for the part
> I don't trust dealers either. Tell him he needs to replace it. Wouldn't
> low grade gas would give you problems at high speed and high boost?

Yes, I'd point on the same. You can unhook the batt for several minutes and
then try again as it then runs richer than normal and woudl eliminate any
low grade fuel stuff. The TPS could really be the problem but then you
should be able to repeat this when standing still and rev it slowely above
3000.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 04:03:43 -0800
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brembo rotors..who?

I believe dynamic racing also sells the same rotors actually cheaper
then Stillen who they get them from. They are cheaper retail (the
middlemen) then Stillen. The Stillen rotors that are stock replacements
are supposedly Brembro which should be the same as the one's MVP sells.
I remember getting this from Dusty? I think at MVP.

Rich

Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > Who can I call that has a set of honest to GOD Brembo rotors.
> >
> > Going with the advice of my Chief Mechanic (yes, we actually have one) he
> > is demanding I get brembo with cross-drill and slotting. Then he will
> > increase the cross drill hole diameter in his own shop.
>
> Rich posted awhile back that http://www.mvpmotorsports.com sells Brembo rotors
> for our cars, however they offer cross drilled OR slotted, not both.
>
> Good luck,
> Ken
>
> --
> If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
>
> Ken Middaugh            (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 18:50:33 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Brembo rotors (attach is just 21K)

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At 04:03 AM 11/21/00 -0800, Richard wrote:
>I believe dynamic racing also sells the same rotors actually cheaper
>then Stillen who they get them from.

Before you guys get your toga in a knot over some cheap Brembos, permit me
to show you what happens to a Stillen rotor when used on one of our cars
(with due credit to Oskar, who broke the sucker in the first place). I
broke two Powerslot rotors exactly the same way: the hat and the rotor
separate at the weld.

It is my humble opinion that Stillen and Powerslot and other suppliers buy
their rotors from the same place, and it AIN'T BREMBO. I have
Porsche/Brembo calipers on my car, and there is no doubt that they came
from Brembo, because they are stamped with BREMBO in very big letters on
the back. If any of you still think that Stillen buys blanks from Brembo,
just ask Stillen if Brembo is imprinted on the rotors anywhere. If not,
buyer beware.

Rich/old poop

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