team3s
Sunday, November 19
2000 Volume 01
: Number
327
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 18 Nov 2000 15:07:07 -0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Subject:
Team3S: OBD-II Diagnostic Computer availability-
Hello Kenneth and
Everyone Else,
That is great if it works on the 94-5 years. Maybe
some of the experts on
the list can tell us something about it and which
models it works on. I'm
talking to my brother right now to see if we
can help you a bit so you can
increase the bid price in case anybody decides
to give you some competition.
Regardless, I believe none of us from the LIST
should try to outbid Kenneth,
or else the price is just going to go up with
the increasing demand. If
anything, we should help him out to make sure
he gets the toy, and then
worry about the loan out aspects of tunning
everybody's cars and who gets to
manage it. I'll get back to you
Kenneth and to everyone else as to how much
my brother and I will pitch in if
it works on our 94-5 cars.
- -MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
John,
brother
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu94 Pearl Yellow
TT
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
-
--------------------------------------------
From:
OrangeFell@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
OBD-II Diagnostic Computer availability-
Hello group-
As of late
there has been much discussion of datalogging and tracing the
information
coupled in the factory diagnostics of the 94+ 3/S cars. I, like
many of
you, are at a loss in the means of capable tuning with the means
available to
the later year models.
Talk has been generated of reverse engineering the
software from the scan
tool. As of yet, no one has stepped up to locate
one.
Well, by what was quite a stroke of luck, I have located a MUT-II
diagnostic
computer for sale on Ebay. While this may not be the most
reliabile of
sources of reciept of such a tool, I'm quite willing to take a
chance on it.
I've contacted the seller reguarding his reserve price, and
I have placed a
nominal bid in an attempt to show true interest. The
reserve isn't broken,
but at this point, depending on what he's asking, if I
can't justify it by
myself, I would think that a collection of those
interested in such a
project
coming to frutition would be able to front
what may possibly be one heck of
a
small investment for the gain of
all.
Either way, I would have no problem donating the unit for the
greater cause,
and those most interested in working on this project can and
should have
open
use to it to figure out just what it is that we can gain
from that little
gray jack under the steering wheel.
Anyways, I might
be a tad nuts. If you think so, please let me know. Any
way that
it can be looked at however, we're gonna have a new toy to
play
with.
Back to the business at
hand-
Kenneth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 16:11:57
EST
From:
OrangeFell@aol.comSubject: RE: Subject:
Team3S: OBD-II Diagnostic Computer availability-
What to
say-
Well, first, about the unit itself. At this time, I have
learned the reserve
price on the scanner, and it is well within my initial
means to purchase the
item. I have offered up his reserve and somewhat
more to purcahse the
computer outright. If this doesn't satisfy the
current owner, well then
we'll just have to sit and wait until the end of
the auction.
I will say that the number of emails and associated IM
conversations I've
gotten on this thus far is really appreciated, and
everybody has good ideas
and thoughts at this point.
As to the
fact of the final price, since as it stands, I was willing to
purchase the
unit for the price offered anyways, I'm willing to front that
for the group
for what it's given me. If it goes outside of those bounds,
I'll let
you all in on it so that we don't lose this thing.
To Mike and all
the other programmers- as I believe I said before, anyone
willing to try
their hand at programming us up a datalogger will have this as
a resource,
for as long as it is needed to either make us such a package or
until it is
decided impossible for the 94+ cars. So start cracking your
knuckles
and taking your carple tunnel medication, because you're gonna have
some
work to do... ;)
When it's all said and done though, any and all who need
the use of the
computer will be at liberty to use it- a sort of lending
library of sorts. I
know there are a few sets of the timing belt tools
and those types of
hardwares in circulation, let this be yet another.
I myself have already
plotted my tuning path beyond using the factory ECU
and it's limitations, but
for the fact that there will always be someone
here that will need this tool,
let it be that we're going to have one for
their use.
More info as I have it,
Kenneth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 16:19:16
EST
From:
OrangeFell@aol.comSubject: RE: Subject:
Team3S: OBD-II Diagnostic Computer availability-
Scratch that.
It
appears that the item has taken up some interest. A couple look
resoundingly familiar, but I'll leave that alone.
If you would
like to donate towards the purchase of this unit, feel free to
contact
me. As it stands at this time, I will donate double as is right now.
Something more would be greatly appreciated as insurance for reciept
of this
tool.
Thank you all again-
Kenneth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 18:43:01
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Crankshaft
Probably need a new oil pan. I think that was an
issue during the design of
the new corvette engine due to the higher revs it
is capable of and the
cornering forces it can see.
Since the aftermarket
hasn't really caught on for this car, it may have to
be a custom job. I
think the second gen cranks were nitrided and are a bit
stronger then first
gen cranks---may be wrong though, just what I
have
heard.......
Sam
From: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
To: Geoff Mohler
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>;
UNCLEDONUT@aol.com<
UNCLEDONUT@aol.com>
Cc:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, November 16, 2000 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Crankshaft
>>
>> And yes, I roasted #6 rod
bearing..oil starvation in high G turns.
>
>
>Hmmmm bad stuff
----- and the solution will be
????????????
>
>
>
Jim berry
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 20:58:47
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Subject: Team3S: OBD-II Diagnostic Computer availability-
> If you
would like to donate towards the purchase of
> this unit, feel free to
contact me. As it stands at
> this time, I will donate double as is
right now.
Does this thing come with the ROM pack for 3000GT? If
it doesn't, it isn't
going to be worth a whole lot to us as a
group.
Or is it one pack that covers all years?
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 21:10:16
-0800
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Hesitation at 0 psi
Lately I've noticed a fairly noticeable hesitation at
about 0 psi. It is
very repeatable (everytime I try to get it I can)
and it's really annoying,
especially when I'm cruising on the freeway.
I am also averaging 14.5 mpg
or sometimes a little less. When I run
higher than stock boost I get very
rough feeling over 6000rpm, and sometimes
it hesitates a little. I've
noticed a gas-like smell sometimes (not all
the time, just occasionally).
current relevant mods:
355 turbos
hks
fuel pump
AVC-R (second gen)
Apex'i BOV
HK$ Super Drager
High-flow
cat
ATR downpipe
Stillen Intake
Gutted pre-cats
upgraded
y-pipe
magnacore wires
stock plugs with about 6k miles on them
My
guess is a vacumn leak, does this sound right? Any other suggestions
are
appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 11:52:27
-0500
From: "Kevin" <
Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 0 psi
Are your plugs gapped down to .032" -
.034" Could be causing your stumbling
at high RPM. Also do a
pressure check to make sure you don't have any leaks
which could be making
the car run rich at boost.
Good luck,
Kevin Schappell
Learn
more about your car
http://www.AutoEducation.comOnline
Mobile Audio SuperStore
http://mobilesounds.vstorecar.com3SI
members.... you have to see this page
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead/mitsu2.htmhttp://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead-
------------Still under construction---------------
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Chris Maxwell <
shmacker@home.com>
To: <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Sunday, November 19, 2000 12:10 AM
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation at 0
psi
> Lately I've noticed a fairly noticeable hesitation at about
0 psi. It is
> very repeatable (everytime I try to get it I can) and
it's really
annoying,
> especially when I'm cruising on the
freeway. I am also averaging 14.5 mpg
> or sometimes a little
less. When I run higher than stock boost I get very
> rough feeling
over 6000rpm, and sometimes it hesitates a little. I've
> noticed a
gas-like smell sometimes (not all the time, just occasionally).
>
>
current relevant mods:
> 355 turbos
> hks fuel pump
> AVC-R
(second gen)
> Apex'i BOV
> HK$ Super Drager
> High-flow
cat
> ATR downpipe
> Stillen Intake
> Gutted pre-cats
>
upgraded y-pipe
> magnacore wires
> stock plugs with about 6k miles
on them
>
> My guess is a vacumn leak, does this sound right?
Any other suggestions
are
> appreciated.
>
>
Thanks,
> Chris Maxwell
> 92 R/T TT
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 00:49:17
EST
From:
DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.comSubject: Team3S:
headlights
does any one know if you can interchange the new headlight
style with the old
one. I have a 1992 VR4 and would like to convert it to
the new headlight
style. are there any aftermarket ones that look close to
the stock ones? Alex
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 02:29:00
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Transmission Problem
Jim,
I was browsing on the internet and I
found some recall info. I don't know
if your car has this exact
problem, but it may be a starting point and
something you can show the
dealer.
If you go to the following link, you will see other recall info
on 95 Mitsu
3000GT cars.
I got it from
http://www.3000gt.com/1995gt.htmquote
-
-----------------------------------
Service Bulletin Number:
TSB97-23-008
Bulletin Sequence Number:
Date of Bulletin: 9706
NHTSA
Item Number: SB052661
Make: MITSUBISHI
Model: 3000GT
Year:
1995
Component: POWER TRAIN:TRANSMISSION:AUTOMATIC
Summary: SHIFT
CHARACTERISTICS OF F4A SERIES A/T. *TW
-
----------------------------------------------------
Good luck,
-
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R
Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
G Teck
0-60 (4.9 sec) Top speed after mods 169 mph
Detroit Metro Area,
Michigan
- -----------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 18 Nov 2000 18:03:45 -0800
From: "Jim" <
devlin@jobe.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Transmission Problem
Hi Guys, I have a problem with my
transmission. I have a
95 GT-SL with automatic trans. The car has
83,000 miles on
it. When I try to pass a car on the highway, the car
feels
like it slips into netrual, the tach revs, then when I let
off the
gas a bit, it catches again. Also when Im driving
around town, it feels like
Im driving a stick shift in
second gear. The trans acts like its braking or
slowing me
down. Its not making any noises, or clunking when I put it
into
gear. Any help would be great. I just bought the car a
few weeks ago, so its
still under guarantee.
Thanks Jim, Missouri
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 00:45:26
-0600
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission Troubles
Greetings new member to the list. I am new
as well, and in case
my last post regarding this matter didn't make it, let
me know
and ill repost or email it. But, to follow up: I recently
bought a
93 stealth ES with auto transmission. Everything
was going great until on the
way home from the inspection
station the trans. starts slipping in and out of
gears, like
its low on fluid. So, after a bit of diagnosing, draining, and
lastly
flushing
of the fluid, i came to realize the trans. cooler line is
clogged
within the bottom of the radiator. This is definitely an area
to
keep in mind when servicing the radiator in general, as
apparently these do
sometimes clog! And it isn't good.
At any rate, in the midst of
flushing the old fluid completely out
i realized an easy solution to going
about it and not requiring
two people, an expensive flusher, or taking it
into the shop
to have it done, which ive heard could cost even as high as 160
dollars
on front wheel drive transmissions like these.
What i have
is a variation on the process one person submitted
to the allpar website. So
for anyone interested (and im not
even aware of what rides in the 3000gt, so
this may not as closely apply):
- -first remove the drain plug on the bottom
of the tranny
and drain out all of the fluid, which i think would be
close to 3-4 quarts
+/-.
(it may also be a good idea to replace the
filter at this time[with a
MOPAR brand filter])
- -second, replace cap,
refill with (in this case) mopar plus/ATF+3 or +4/7176
with the proper
amount.
- -then, remove the driver's side (return) cooler line at the bottom
of the
radiator
and attach a 3/8" ID size clear piece of tubing of around
4 or 5 feet in
length,
along with a hose clamp. Route the tubing
under the front of the car and
into
a bucket or other collection agency.
Prior to flushing, mark the bucket in
quarts
up the side of it to evaluate
your process along the way.
- - once you are set, start the car and place the
trans. in neutral
in order to enact the pump. The flow of the fluid is
rather
speedy, at around 1 pint per 2-3 seconds, in my rough
guesstimation.
In other words, what youll need to do is run the car and then
turn it off
shortly after to check your progress and then refill into the
filler tube,
in order to maintain proper levels within the
transmission.
You should end up pumping out around close to 5 quarts
until
everthing is flushed, and the color of the fluid has returned to
a
beautiful robust and shimmering red.
- - my particular flushing also
varied in that the passage from the
transsmission to the
return line
inside the radiator was clogged, so i ended up
disconnecting on the passenger
side line midway between trans and
radiator. The tube simply hanged down into
a 3 quart enamel ware
cooking pot i placed beneath. I ran the car in neutral,
was able to eye the
front of the
vehicle for the proper level, and have
time to return to cut the ignition. I
also
added a little bit of extra
fluid into the pan for added insurance it
wouldnt run dry
so quickly
(pouring while flusing is useless because of the very slow rate
of
fluid
travel into the pan). After each point i replaced the same amount of
fluid i
let out
(dumping the smaller containers contents into the larger
bucket that wouldnt
fit
beneath the car). Perhaps the easiest way would be
to start the engine
and let it run for just a handful of seconds, check the
level, top off
appropriately at
the filler tube, and repeat until done.
This to me seems like
quite an easy way of flushing the transmission, which
replaces
all of the old fluid, not simply half or less through the typical
drain
and refill process.
- - Also, the second method bypasses the need
for a clear
bleeder hose connection.
Good luck, fellow A/T
owners.
- -john/stealth
es
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 01:11:05
-0600
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission Troubles
I would also like to clarify that
-
-just a few seconds or more
should be sufficient to expunge close to two
quarts.
- -If youve allowed for perhaps a pint extra inside
you certainly
won't run the pan empty befor refilling.
- -on the stealth and i assume
probably the 3000 as according to the manual
the 94 3000gt was the same as
all dohc stealth vehicles and mentions diamond
fluid,
only use what is
either called: ATF+3, ATF+4, MOPAR PLUS, 7176, or Diamond
ATF
SP.
None of the other more common fluids are intended for these automatic
4
speeds and using
them will only 'end up kicking your ass', or you will
end up kicking
yourself
in the ass for it
soon!
regards,
john/Stealth
ES
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 20:04:43
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 0 psi
Hmm, I'd say you have a O2 sensor that is
going south or already sits there.
Therefore the car runs way too rich (for
safety) and the engine is flooded
with fuel (bad mpg). Under vacuum condition
this is noticeable but nto that
much. At pressure the fuel pressure is risen
and therefore even more fuel is
sprayed in.
But also the MAS sensor
could be out of good as well the ECU. Hard to say
without hooking up a
diagnostic tool. I'd also check the FPR solenoid and
the hoses around it
!
Hope this helps
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Lately I've noticed a
fairly noticeable hesitation at about 0 psi. It is
> very repeatable
(everytime I try to get it I can) and it's really
annoying,
>
especially when I'm cruising on the freeway. I am also averaging 14.5
mpg
> or sometimes a little less. When I run higher than stock boost
I get very
> rough feeling over 6000rpm, and sometimes it hesitates a
little. I've
> noticed a gas-like smell sometimes (not all the time,
just occasionally).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 14:28:59
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Any Experience With FMICs?
Does anyone on the list have any
experience running a FMIC on open track
events? (that's a front-mounted
intercooler for you non-turbo folks)
I am concerned that a FMIC would
block airflow to the radiator, thus
resulting in even more overheating
than I am getting now. I know that the
dragstrip boys run FMICs, but
that's for a 11-second blast down the strip,
not for 20-30 minutes at a time
under full boost on a road course.
As with all turbo cars, I am getting
heat soaking on the stock
intercoolers, so I'm looking for a solution -- such
as water mist
injection, bigger intercoolers or a FMIC. All suggestions from
turbo folks
who have solved this problem are welcome.
Rich/94
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 twin turbo AWD
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#327
*********************