team3s            Monday, November 13 2000            Volume 01 : Number 322




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 14:54:57 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Let's go Viper Hunting!

I doubt what you've suggested will necessarily assure dominance, but it
might keep them from overtaking at will.

I would suggest 550cc injectors and 13Gs.  I actually think 13Gs are NOT the
way to go but it might save you a few bucks.  The 15G/720cc combination is
IMO the way to do it, but costs escallate dramatically due to gadgets
required for fuel management.  You'll want a better fuel pump in any case.

However, 15Gs and 720s will guarantee dominance.  My poor running VR4
(several years back now - turned out a couple of pistons were on their way
out) absolutely ATE a heavily modified M3 owned by my Ferrari jockey friend.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Merritt
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 10:32 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; stealth@starnet.net
> Subject: Team3S: Let's go Viper Hunting!
>
>
> I need some good tech advice on engine mods. All I have right now
> is a K&N.
> My requirements are somewhat different than all you dragstrip demons,
> because I run open track events on road courses.
>
> As it stands right now, a VR4 is the equal of every
> street-driven, licensed
> car on a road course, with the exception of Vipers, TT AWD Porsches, and
> Cobra Rs (and maybe new M3s and 911s, but I haven't seen any yet). With
> upgraded brakes and suspension, we can stay with them through the twisty
> bits, but they tend to pull away (or catch up) on the straights with their
> superior horsepower.
>
> I want to build a car that can at least stay with them on straights. I
> don't have to be faster, just NOT SLOWER. I have followed enough TT
> Porsches to know that they are not that much faster than us, but they are
> definitely faster in a straight line. And you haven't lived until
> you see a
> Cobra R or a modded Supra in your mirrors, coming up on you at 140+ like a
> freight train.
>
> I figure I need 400+ hp to stay with them.
> 450 hp probably would be right on.
>
> Here is what I am planning:
>
> Blitz DSBC boost controller (because it's simple and has multiple
> settings), running 15 psi mostly, 18 psi occasionally.
> Spearco water injection (to keep combustion temps down)
>    (There is slim to no chance I will change these unless DSBCs are no
> longer available. My buddy Curt G knows how to make these work, and that
> seems to be 95% of the battle)
>
> ATR downpipe.
> Gut cats, remove main cat
> Run custom-made single exhaust to straight through muffler.
> At the track, I will run 100+ octane racing gas.
>
> Think this will do it?
> Any other suggestions?
> When do I start getting into problems with overheated intercoolers?
> Do I need a knock sensor?
> I have been blowing off my Y-pipe lately -- is it time for a new one?
> Suggestions?
>
> Remember, I am not looking for 11 second quarter miles here.
> I need a system that will give me good, constant horsepower for 20-30
> MINUTES at a time -- sort of like our friends do on the Autobahns --
> without frying the engine internals or overheating the engine.
>
> All suggestions welcome, especially from Germany and other open trackers.
> Remember, I need power AND reliability.
>
> In 2002, we'll probably go to a dedicated track car with 600 hp, depending
> on what kind of success Geoff has...but this year, I just want to have the
> fastest street-driven car on the track.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
> K&N
> Big Red Porsche brakes w/Hawk Blues, SS lines, Ford fluid, air ducting,
> water injection.
> (Air blowers and water injection to calipers next).
> Ground Control suspension w/Eibachs and camber plates
> (Penske shocks next)
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 16:30:11 -0800
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S: air intake fun

Today I was doing about 4000-5000 RPM in 2nd in city traffic when I
heard a loud BANG! under the hood followed by massive power loss.  I let
off the throttle and the car stalled.  All kinds of nightmare scenarios
were going through my head like "Timing belt," or "bent valve stem",
etc!  I restarted the car and it ran okay as long as I gave it some
throttle, and I was able to limp into a parking lot with black smoke
pouring from the exhaust.  At this point I was starting to suspect the
air intake pipe that I'd heard stories of.

After popping the hood, sure enough, it was just the air intake pipe
that had popped off the plenum.  I managed to get it back together but
the rubber gasket is about shot and will need replacement.

Is there a strong case to be made for replacing the pipe with a
performance aftermarket part even though  I am running stock turbos,
stock boost, etc?


Dave
'91 R/T TT



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 19:15:37 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: air intake fun

If you ever plan on upgrading the car, yes get an aftermarket one.

If you never plan on upgrading it, the stock one is 1/2 price of the
cheapest aftermarket unit.  Chances are that the replacement one will last
another 10 years.

Brad
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of David Margrave
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 6:30 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: air intake fun



Today I was doing about 4000-5000 RPM in 2nd in city traffic when I
heard a loud BANG! under the hood followed by massive power loss.  I let
off the throttle and the car stalled.  All kinds of nightmare scenarios
were going through my head like "Timing belt," or "bent valve stem",
etc!  I restarted the car and it ran okay as long as I gave it some
throttle, and I was able to limp into a parking lot with black smoke
pouring from the exhaust.  At this point I was starting to suspect the
air intake pipe that I'd heard stories of.

After popping the hood, sure enough, it was just the air intake pipe
that had popped off the plenum.  I managed to get it back together but
the rubber gasket is about shot and will need replacement.

Is there a strong case to be made for replacing the pipe with a
performance aftermarket part even though  I am running stock turbos,
stock boost, etc?


Dave
'91 R/T TT



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 21:00:48 -0500
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Viper Hunting

Rich,

My experience with upgrades leads me to believe that switching to at least a
500cc/min injector along with a simple fuel/MAF controller will make the
single biggest contribution to adding more boost.  After gutting all the
cats, switching to 13g's, and high flow fuel pump, I noticed little
difference in pull and my EGT's were pushing 950 C on any extended WOT run.
After adding bigger injectors, my car came ALIVE!  My first open track
event, I ran a conservative 15psi as my instructor and I kept a close eye on
my EGT temp.  It never went past 850 C.   I dialed up to 18psi for a lap but
EGT's still remained below 850 C.  I had to dial back down as my corner
entry speeds were so much faster that I found I would need to re-learn the
track not to mention your brake concerns will take on new meaning when you
get these things running at 18+psi.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT


____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 00:59:59 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Universal Datalogger Project

Okay, here's the deal.  I'm stuck with a '95 car with incompatable OBD with
all known datalogging tools.  I'm considering constructing a general-purpose
datalogger which could possibly read things like:

O2 sensor readings (off multiple sensors)
Injector pulsewidth (or percentage of open-time)
Airflow signal
Manifold pressure (via an aftermarket MAP sensor)
Timing advance (by taking the difference between crank sensor and coil
trigger)
Coolant Temperature
RPM
Throttle Position Sensor


It would contain an 8-channel A/D converter with 12-bit precision on a range
between 0-5V or 0-10V DC.  It would also allow up to 40 lines of digital
I/O.

It would also have either a 2-line by 23-character LCD or 2-line by
32-character LCD display which could display a few of the monitored signals
on the display in real-time.

Figure raw hardware costs around $400, but it'll be plenty powerful.  For
instance, if you had something like a set of multi-axis accelerometers you
could get directional G-force datalogging as well.  You'd eat up 2 analog
inputs with O2 sensors, 1 with boost pressure, 1 with coolant temp, 1 with
TPS.  That would leave 3 analog inputs to hook up to whatever you want.  The
ranges of those analog inputs could be 0 to 5v, 0 to 10v, +-5v or +-10v.
The sample rate could be all the way up to 100,000 samples per second,
although I'm thinking that a rate more like 10-20 per second would be more
than adequate for this application (and to keep the datasize down for
sending to a laptop if you are actively logging).

I doubt I could make something work that could read the knock sensor and
produce intelligent data from it like the TMO datalogger, but to some extent
the knock count can be inferred from timing advance data.

I'm considering making it from the MultiTrax-II Multitasking Controller,
which would seem to work well for this application since it can do some
level of multitasking and has all the data acquisition hardware on-board and
a serial interface.

http://www.controltrax.com

Would anyone else be interested in something like this?

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 23:07:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Universal Datalogger Project

FWIW...

Im upgrading to a DFI unit in our project car...and we plan to have it
running WELL by the New Year.

I have a company sponsored open-track day at THunderhill on the weekend of
the 20th of January..and I can bring along some friends to attend/ride,
but cannot race thier own cars.

This is an open track session paid for by my employer (Network Appliance)
so please..dont ask, we really like them to continue to do this *grin*.

But who knows..might be worth a day of hangin out at least.

Also..if you live in the Bay Area (SF) we might need a driver to help us
get our Toyotas down to the Southern Cal. Supra meet.

One bored/lucky person will get to pilot down an 87 Supra (kinda sorta
modified a lot), a 2001 Mrs., or a 93 Celca AllTraf Turbo.

Lemme know.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 10:39:25 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Universal Datalogger Project

>Figure raw hardware costs around $400, but it'll be plenty powerful.

I already have done this with an integrated controller, 8 analogue inputs
and backlight LCD. Cost is around $200 with MAP sensor.

>The sample rate could be all the way up to 100,000 samples per second,

This is only for the digital inputs. The max is about 1kS/s for such an
app. but even then ..

>although I'm thinking that a rate more like 10-20 per second would be more
>than adequate for this application (and to keep the datasize down for
>sending to a laptop if you are actively logging).

... you are absolutely right. For temp reading 1 sample per sec would be
enough as the sensors are not that quick !

>I doubt I could make something work that could read the knock sensor and
>produce intelligent data from it like the TMO datalogger, but to some extent
>the knock count can be inferred from timing advance data.

Hmmm, not sure if timing advance would be fast enough to read then. Need to
check this out first.

>I'm considering making it from the MultiTrax-II Multitasking Controller,
>which would seem to work well for this application since it can do some
>level of multitasking and has all the data acquisition hardware on-board and
>a serial interface.

Everything here and it is programmable via RS232 including a graphical
interface on the PC. My application is able to hold 2k of Data and send it
later via RS232 to a PC or has the ability to sent the stream online to a
PC. It even has two max alarms for boost and EGT meters than can be preset.

For reading speed, air flow and rpm you need to have a frequency input. My
controller has one and this is not enough as rpm and air flow would be
important (first case why I don't use it).

12 bit is a must, 10 bit resolution is not enough for the sensors (we need
0.01 V resolution in the 5V range)

RS232 speed is not important because you will send raw data out without
convertion. Any convertion done in the controller eats up time for the
samples read from the A/D converter and lowers the rate !!! My final rate
for 8 channels and rpm frequency was 8 samples/s with convertion and about
12-14 samples without. Some convertion must be done to be able to read the
values on the LCD (2 values selectable on mine, e.g. Boost and rpm, or
boost and EGT, etc.) so my sampling rate never went up to 20S/s. But the
most tools only provide 10 S/s anyways so this is enough (e.g. Diacom for
the GM's)

I stopped any further development on this due to several reasons :
- - Air flow signal is unimportant when using an aftermarket fuel controller
- - no knock sensor reading (the filter would become very tricky)
- - no timing readeable (for now)
- - Frequency reading is not fast enough and more f-inputs are needed
(resolution is a problem too)
- - several f-inputs needed (at least IDC and rpm but also)
- - I do not use it but for temp readings now
- - only 2 values on the display possible because it is too small to read
(impossible when concentrating on the road !)
- - I programmed an analogue bar but even then the thing was complicated to read.

It works and provides a good data-stream that can be merged with the TMO
data from my car on rpm basis. But it only geave me a value on temp or EGT
readings taht added some data to the log. The way to read the timing ruld
be interesting as the TMO shows a wrong one.

To be honest, without knock data it is only a better O2 sensor reader. If
you can build something more sophisticated then for sure there is a value
but not for $400 at all. My app hardware costs around $150 with a backlight
LCD (unfortunately only in green) plus around $60 for the GM 3bar MAP
sensor. But then the inputs are NOT galvanic decoupled what I'd say is
always necessary to make the tool perfect. Unfortunately, this will make
the stuff even more expensive. Any time for programmign and putting the
stuff together is not yet counted in so it will be somewhat expensive :(

I once made some pics fro mthe tool but cannot remember where I have them.
It lies around in my garage somewhere and I'll try to find it again so you
can see what it looks like (controller and LCD in seperate cases... I mean
no cases at all for now)

Hope this helps
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 09:02:44 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Let's go Viper Hunting!

Rich,

If I recall the 4 wheel dyno test results reported a year or so ago, if you
just add the DSBC and run at 15 psi, you wil be at about 405 hp.  That's
where my son, Michael, is running and he had a grand time with a Viper last
time out, given that the driver is in the same experience class.

Blowing off the y-pipe usually means you didn't tighten the hose clamp(s)
enough.  Mike just had to replace his because the seal at the throttle-body
end got cooked.  I'm not sure what the difference in cost is for the
aftermarket version.

I think other mods (downpipes, intercooler upgrades) are going to give you
incremental improvements, because to go farther you are going to have to
fuel side - upgraded fuel pump, regulator, and injectors.  You might need
bigger turbos, too.

We use octane booster at the track, but haven't tried race fuel.  Have you
already regapped your spark plugs?

I think you will be surprised what a difference the DSBC and 15 psi makes.

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 11:32 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; stealth@starnet.net
> Subject: Team3S: Let's go Viper Hunting!
>
> I need some good tech advice on engine mods. All I have right now is a
> K&N.
> My requirements are somewhat different than all you dragstrip demons,
> because I run open track events on road courses.
>
> As it stands right now, a VR4 is the equal of every street-driven,
> licensed
> car on a road course, with the exception of Vipers, TT AWD Porsches, and
> Cobra Rs (and maybe new M3s and 911s, but I haven't seen any yet). With
> upgraded brakes and suspension, we can stay with them through the twisty
> bits, but they tend to pull away (or catch up) on the straights with their
> superior horsepower.
>
> I want to build a car that can at least stay with them on straights. I
> don't have to be faster, just NOT SLOWER. I have followed enough TT
> Porsches to know that they are not that much faster than us, but they are
> definitely faster in a straight line. And you haven't lived until you see
> a
> Cobra R or a modded Supra in your mirrors, coming up on you at 140+ like a
> freight train.
>
> I figure I need 400+ hp to stay with them.
> 450 hp probably would be right on.
>
> Here is what I am planning:
>
> Blitz DSBC boost controller (because it's simple and has multiple
> settings), running 15 psi mostly, 18 psi occasionally.
> Spearco water injection (to keep combustion temps down)
>    (There is slim to no chance I will change these unless DSBCs are no
> longer available. My buddy Curt G knows how to make these work, and that
> seems to be 95% of the battle)
>
> ATR downpipe.
> Gut cats, remove main cat
> Run custom-made single exhaust to straight through muffler.
> At the track, I will run 100+ octane racing gas.
>
> Think this will do it?
> Any other suggestions?
> When do I start getting into problems with overheated intercoolers?
> Do I need a knock sensor?
> I have been blowing off my Y-pipe lately -- is it time for a new one?
> Suggestions?
>
> Remember, I am not looking for 11 second quarter miles here.
> I need a system that will give me good, constant horsepower for 20-30
> MINUTES at a time -- sort of like our friends do on the Autobahns --
> without frying the engine internals or overheating the engine.
>
> All suggestions welcome, especially from Germany and other open trackers.
> Remember, I need power AND reliability.
>
> In 2002, we'll probably go to a dedicated track car with 600 hp, depending
> on what kind of success Geoff has...but this year, I just want to have the
> fastest street-driven car on the track.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
> K&N
> Big Red Porsche brakes w/Hawk Blues, SS lines, Ford fluid, air ducting,
> water injection.
> (Air blowers and water injection to calipers next).
> Ground Control suspension w/Eibachs and camber plates
> (Penske shocks next)
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 09:11:57 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Let's go Viper Hunting!

< lots of snips>
> I need some good tech advice on engine mods. All I have right now is a K&N.
>
> I figure I need 400+ hp to stay with them.
> 450 hp probably would be right on.
>
> Here is what I am planning:
>
> Blitz DSBC boost controller (because it's simple and has multiple
> settings), running 15 psi mostly, 18 psi occasionally.
> Spearco water injection (to keep combustion temps down)
>    (There is slim to no chance I will change these unless DSBCs are no
> longer available. My buddy Curt G knows how to make these work, and that
> seems to be 95% of the battle)
>
> ATR downpipe.
> Gut cats, remove main cat
> Run custom-made single exhaust to straight through muffler.
> At the track, I will run 100+ octane racing gas.
>
> I have been blowing off my Y-pipe lately -- is it time for a new one?
> Suggestions?

I think the 400-425 HP range is a good target and can be acheived fairly
inexpensively (best bang for the buck) with the boost controller, exhaust, and
race gas you are proposing.

One problem I noticed last time I was at the track is that my temperature gauge
would start to climb when I was constantly under boost.  This was at either .9
kg/cm^2 (12.8 psi) or .95 kg/cm^2 (13.5 psi), I don't remember exactly, with
stock turbos, fuel system, exhaust.  The temperature dropped immediately though
when I wasn't so aggressive with the throttle.  I don't know if you have
experienced this yet, but you might when you raise boost.  Thus, the water
injection sounds like a very good idea, and you might also want to check into
the smart intercooler sprayer that Trevor posted last week,
http://www.autospeed.com/A_0527/P_1/article.html

Also, replacing the stock bypass valve (BOV) will probably be necessary.  The
1st gen DSM with adapter costs about $140 from http://www.buschurracing.com.
The Greddy Type S with adapter costs almost twice as much but will work with the
20+ psi that you will be striving for in 2002.  Build a system leak tester as
described by Vineet a few weeks ago, http://www.ecanfix.com/~amit/, and fix any
leaks.  Make sure your stock turbos don't have to work overtime and this should
help keep temperatures a little cooler too.

You would benefit greatly using the TMO Datalogger too.  This will help you
determine the highest boost you can safely run for your given mods ( boost, race
gas, exhaust changes, water cooling, etc).  You will be able to determine at
what boost pressure knock begins, although you may have to run at a lower
pressure anyway to avoid excessive temperartures during your long track times.

For $30, you can repair your Y-Pipe if you don't want to buy an expensive
aftermarket one now.  You  should be able to remove (cut off ?) the stock hose
from the y-pipe.  Then just buy a short 3" length of 2.75" diameter hose (??,
measure before you buy:)) and 2 clamps.  Check out the silicone hose & T-clamps
at http://www.turbocharged.com/main.htm, catolog, "T", silicone connectors.
This is the same hose and clamps that the metal aftermarket Y-pipes use. This
ought to be satisfactory to 20+ psi.

Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 09:16:23 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: air intake fun

> After popping the hood, sure enough, it was just the air intake pipe
> that had popped off the plenum.  I managed to get it back together but
> the rubber gasket is about shot and will need replacement.
>
> Is there a strong case to be made for replacing the pipe with a
> performance aftermarket part even though  I am running stock turbos,
> stock boost, etc?

Just in case you missed it in my "Lets go Viper hunting" reply:
For $30, you can repair your Y-Pipe if you don't want to buy an expensive
aftermarket one now.  You  should be able to remove (cut off ?) the stock hose
from the y-pipe.  Then just buy a short 3" length of 2.75" diameter hose (??,
measure before you buy:)) and 2 clamps.  Check out the silicone hose & T-clamps
at http://www.turbocharged.com/main.htm, catolog, "T", silicone connectors.
This is the same hose and clamps that the metal aftermarket Y-pipes use. This
ought to be satisfactory to 20+ psi.

Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 09:55:18 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Team3S: Car Won't Start...Update 2

My problem is still not solved although I've been driving my car for a few days
without a re-occurance.  My suspicions lie with the ECU, the aftermarket alarm
with ignition kill, or perhaps my HKS turbo timer.

My buddy drove his car with my ECU for awhile (15 minutes of driving, 45 minutes
of idling) with no problems.  I drove my car with his ECU for awhile, also with
no problems.

My aftermarket alarm has 4 relays on the circuit board.  I sprayed them with "TV
Tuner" cleaner.  I don't know if this was the problem or not.  I will order
capacitors from http://www.digikey.com (on backorder till Friday) and replace
the caps on the ECU ASAP, hopefully by Thanksgiving weekend.  I can unplug my
turbo timer and the car runs fine.  I don't know whether a faulty turbo timer is
capable of killing the ignition or not, can someone tell me?

If/when the problem occurs again, I will unplug the turbo timer to pinpoint or
eliminate it as the problem source.  I can easily do this at the time of the
next failure.  I will feel uneasy driving my car until I get the caps on my ECU
replaced.  If I have the problem after the ECU caps are replaced, then I will
remove the aftermarket alarm.  I hope to take the inexpensive route to get this
problem solved.

Thanks again for your help,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 20:19:52 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Car Won't Start...Update 2

>If/when the problem occurs again, I will unplug the turbo timer to pinpoint or
>eliminate it as the problem source.  I can easily do this at the time of the
>next failure.  I will feel uneasy driving my car until I get the caps on
>my ECU
>replaced.  If I have the problem after the ECU caps are replaced, then I will
>remove the aftermarket alarm.  I hope to take the inexpensive route to get
>this
>problem solved.

If the C's are leaking then you will see this directly. As I remember you
have told us that there is no problem.

I'd unhook the timer at first because it is the less needed part. The the
alarm and the latest I'd think of the ECU.

Let us know how it goes.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 16:00:53 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Know any good shops?

Can anyone recommend a good race shop in the midwest (say, from Minneapolis
to the North to Cleveland to the East to   as far west as Denver or as far
south as Houston) where I could get some mods installed on my car? I'm
thinking bigger turbos, intercoolers, injectors, fuel pump -- all that jazz
- -- and just getting it all done at once. I need somebody who knows to gap
the plugs to 0.034 and can install an EGR and pretty much knows all the
inside stuff we talk about here.

What about Dave Buschur? Do they know our cars or is he just a Eagle Talon
shop?

Any suggestions? Any of you wizards want to take on the job?

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

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