team3s
Friday, November 10
2000 Volume 01
: Number
320
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Nov 2000 23:14:11 EST
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
RE:Suspension for 1995 VR-4
Ok, Cody convinced me,
I'm going to go
ahead and buy them - I'll report back to the list and let
everyone know how
it goes. Anybody have any tips on getting them installed
fast and
easy? The main reason I haven't already tried installing
them
yet is because I'd hate to waste a Saturday busting knuckles only to
find out
that it doesn't work - also, my workshop is the driveway and a
socket-set
right now, not much fun working without the right
tools.
While I'm at it I should replace the front shocks - both are
leaking, any
recommendations on an adjustable shock that is well matched to
the Eibachs?
I'll probably get around to it in a few weeks, I'll let you
guys know how it
goes.
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 13:21:53
-0500 (EST)
From: Mike Baldwin <
mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Need BOV help in the Bay Area
Has anyone in the Bay Area
installed a 1G Eclipse in their car, and if so
would they mind giving me a
hand? I'm having a helluva time getting this
thing in.
I'll bring a
case of whatever beer ya want over. Thanks
;)
mb
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 10:59:48
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blocking off the EGR on the TT..
It actually cools the EGTs,
no use in blocking it off at all.
On Sat, 4 Nov 2000, George Kuo
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Just want to know if there are side
effects in
> blocking off the EGR pipe in our TT's? I have
heard
> most ppl say do it.. and some say don't!
>
> I
blocked off mine recently and it began to smoke once
> a while when
driving.. white smoke.. very stinky
> smoke.. don't know if its related..
and whats weird
> about it is that it does not smoke ALL the time
when
> driving... and of course when u take it to the
> mechanic..
it doesnt smoke! err!!
>
> I have checked for oil in the coolant
reservor, water
> on oil cap, burnt oil on dipstick.. all came out
>
negative.. so it doesnt seem like a blown-by...
>
> Anyways.. im
gona try to unblock the EGR tomorrow and
> see what happens..
>
> Someone mentioned replace the PCV?? I remember RogerG
> told me
we dont need to worry about that thing on our
> cars... any input is
greatly appreciated.
>
>
> /George
>
www.geocities.com/AmkreadGTO/Hybrid.html>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in
one Place.
>
http://shopping.yahoo.com/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 11:17:11
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blocking off the EGR on the TT..
Thats odd.
Because it
will actually be lower..as the gasses are inert.
This aids in fuel milage
and emissions...FWIW.
On Wed, 8 Nov 2000, George Kuo wrote:
>
Hi Guys,
>
> Thanks to everyone who gave their valuable input..
I
> unblocked the EGR valve last weekend and have been
> *almost*
smoke free!!
>
> Just thought it was weird that other members have
done
> this and don't have the same side effects as I did..
>
> I also noticed EGT temp is lower with EGR blocked at
> cruising
speed..
>
> Well, anyways.. just glad that it wasnt a
blown-by..
>
> /George
> ---
Merlin916@aol.com wrote:
>
> Well to see when and why its smoking - you have
>
> to know what the EGR does.
> > The EGR is an Exhaust Gas
Recirculation system. It
> > introduces exhaust gases
>
> into the intake in order to reduce peak cylinder
> >
temperatures. The oxygen in
> > the air has already been burned,
so it cant burn
> > again, and the cylinder
> > temperatures
decrease. Why do you need to do this?
> > To reduce emissions of
> > oxides of nitrogen. The EGR will close at warmup,
>
> as then you want to get
> > cylinder temperatures up
quicky. Its closed at
> > idle, as temperatures dont
>
> get high at idle anyway, and its closed at WOT, as
> > you then
want maximum
> > power. So the only time the EGR is open is
a
> > mid-throttle cruise (2000-3500
> > rpm). So if
thats when your getting that white
> > smoke out of your exhaust, it
> > may be a result of the closed valve. If thats not
>
> when youre getting your
> > smoke, or youre getting it at other
times as well
> > its probably something
> > else.
> >
> > as an aside - if you just told me that you had
white
> > smoke coming out of
> > yourexhaust, id probaby
guess it was coolant,
> > probably from blow-by. That
>
> would produce a very nasty smell. A compression
> > test
would probably give you
> > youre answer as to that one.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in
one Place.
>
http://shopping.yahoo.com/>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 18:22:01
EST
From:
UNCLEDONUT@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Forged pistons
Hey,
I'm in the process of rebuilding my '91
turbo engine and would like to get
some opinions on the forged pistons
available. I'm leaning towards JE right
now for they seem to be the
popular choice.
I would also appreciate if anyone could tell me
who has the best deals on
any of the different brands
available.
Thanks,
Dave Rich
'91 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 19:23:24
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Adventures in Braking
Have you thought of dropping weight from
your car like Jeff Mohler (sp) has
(but maybe not to that extreme)?
Lightening the car a couple 100lbs could
really save those brakes I would
think. He (Jeff) might be able to give
some weight saving tips that
also may not leave the car looking like it was
left in Queens, N.Y.
overnight........
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
stealth@starnet.net <
stealth@starnet.net>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, November 08, 2000 4:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: Adventures in
Braking
>Here's the latest report on my brake
situation:
>
>We ran Hawk Blue pads at Road America three weeks ago,
and wore them down
>about 50%, so we decided that they would do for
Heartland Park. The rear
>brakes were looking thin, but they seem to wear
about a micron each event,
>so we figured they would last one more event.
Alas, that is all I got to do
>to the car before the event (look at pad
depth) because of too much other
>work (the kind that pays for these
events).
>
>So we went to Heartland Park with the car virtually
untouched (a wash job)
>since Road America. Big
mistake.
>
>First off, the rear brakes went south on the second
session on Saturday.
>Fortunately, I brought along a spare set of stock
pads and slipped them in.
>Took about a half hour. The Porterfield R4 rear
pads lasted about 5 driving
>events over two years, so I can't
complain.
>
>On Sunday, the pedal went soft. I mean, like down to
the floor. I could
>pump it 2-3 times and they would come back, but when
they stopped coming
>back I prudently exited the
track.
>
>Normally, I bleed the brakes before every event, but I
didn't do it this
>time. So, we bled the fronts in the rain, and it
helped. Probably should
>have bled the rears too, but it was raining,
dude!
>
>As the track dried, I was still running street tires, and
braking just as
>hard as ever. But the pads were starting to go away, and
I was seeing fade
>for the first time with the Hawk Blues. Experts tell me
that the Blues go
>away fast in the last half of their life, so I should
back off a little and
>extend the braking zones. Besides, I didn't have
the same grip with the
>street tires as I did with the Kumho race tires,
so I was applying the
>brakes longer and heating them up more (funny how
all that stuff works
>together).
>
>Lessons
learned:
>
>Hawk Blues are my brake pad of choice for open track
running. They made it
>through TWO track events, and there is still some
pad left. If I can't wear
>them down in two events, NOBODY can! I really
hammer my brakes. Pagid
>Blacks wear almost as well, but they chunk at the
edges and squeal like
>crazy when cold.
>
>Ford High
Performance brake fluid is the greatest bargain in racing, but
>you MUST
bleed out all the gunky fluid from each caliper before an event.
>Once it
boils, it does not recover as well as the more expensive Motul or
>Racer's
Blue. So, bleed yer brakes until the fluid flows clear.
>
>Rear
brakes, contrary to popular opinion, actually do a little work --
>enough
so that you really miss them when they are gone. I guess that we
>have
real potential for improving our stopping power by working with
the
>rears. I noticed that it doesn't stop quite as well with stock pads
in the
>rear as it does with race pads, so I will put some Hawk Blues back
there. I
>also have two check valves for the rears that will go in this
winter. The
>check valves are supposed to keep a small amount of pressure
on the rear
>pads so they are always ready to go. Kinda like driving
around years ago
>with your emergency brake partly on.
>
>You
CANNOT get enough cooling to the front brakes. Despite my
spaceage
>plastic brake scoops and water injection to the rotors, it is
not enough
>for truly aggressive braking. Although the pads may hold up,
too much heat
>will boil fluid and ruin seals in the calipers. This winter
I plan to
>install two NASCAR truck air blowers under the front
valence to force air
>to the brakes through a separate duct system. I also
plan to run water
>injection to the calipers. (I asked our TransAm brake
specialist why they
>were injecting water down into the rotor vents at the
caliper. He said the
>hot air coming out of the vents would flash the
water to steam, and this
>would help cool the calipers, seals and pads.
Since I have already cooked
>one seal on the Big Reds, I think I'll try
this. TransAm cars only reach
>about 1000 F at the rotors; as you know, we
can hit 1400 F)
>
>I also want to find another way to run the air
ducts. I think I'll rip out
>those shitty, useless driving lights and see
if I can't snake an air duct
>through there. Anybody know how to get the
lights out?
>
>So, here's what my brake system will look like along
about March next year:
>
>Fronts:
>Porsche Big Red
calipers
>Hawk Blue pads
>Porterfield cryogenically treated stock
rotors
>BFG stainless steel lines.
>Ford High Performance brake
fluid
>Cooling air ducts with scoops.
>Water injection to the
rotors.
>New:
>NASCAR blowers forcing air through a second duct
system
>Water injection to the
calipers.
>
>Rears:
>Stock calipers and rotors
>BFG
stainless steel lines
>Ford High Performance brake
fluid
>New:
>Hawk Blue pads
>2psi check valve (keeps pressure
on the rear pads)
>
>If anyone else has suggestions, I'd sure like
to hear them. Especially for
>the rears.
>
>Despite all the
problems, with the setup I have now I can outbrake many
>911s and M3s. My
instructor at Road America was impressed with the brakes,
>and said it
stopped better than his 944 S. So, thanks to Brad and his Big
>Red kit,
our cars can brake with the big dogs.
>
>Rich/old poop
>94
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
>
>
>
>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 18:48:40
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Adventures in Braking
At 07:23 PM 11/9/00 -0000, Sam Shelat
wrote:
>Have you thought of dropping weight from your car like Jeff Mohler
(sp) has
>(but maybe not to that extreme)? Lightening the car a
couple 100lbs could
>really save those brakes I would think. He
(Jeff) might be able to give
>some weight saving tips that also may not
leave the car looking like it was
>left in Queens, N.Y.
overnight........
Sam:
I'm not quite ready to go the same route as
Geoff.
I WILL build a dedicated track car one of these days, and I plan
to keep an
eye on what Geoff's doing out there to see if it will be a 3000GT
that I
build. I truly believe that our cars have the potentional to be
world
beaters, but I'll let Geoff break trail. If Geoff can make it work,
then
I'll probably follow in his footsteps next winter. I can only imagine
what
one of our cars, weighing under 3,000 lb with 600 hp, would be like on
a
track!
Until then, I'll keep my car in reasonably stock condition so
I can sell it
if need be (if I do, it will be an ideal, fully sorted car for
anyone who
wants to get into open tracking). This winter, I'll put in a
boost
controller and exhaust, and shoot for 400+ reliable hp. That oughta get
me
up there into Cobra R, Viper and TT Porsche country. When I can beat
every
street-driven car (I'm not far from that point now), then I'll think
about
building a dedicated track car.
I have a tremendous need for
speed, but I gotta work up to it, one step at
a time.
Rich/old
poop
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 21:02:44
-0500
From: "Brian Collins" <
bcturbo@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Throttle lever leaking air
I have recently tried using a homemade
intake-pressure-tester like the ones
being discussed on this list a few weeks
ago. I have already found and
fixed several small leaks but this one
has me stumped. There is a very loud
hissing coming from around the
throttle body. I can change the tone of the
hissing by wiggling the
bolt/shaft on which the throttle lever & throttle
plate are
mounted. I think that maybe the air is leaking through where the
bolt
passes through the throttle body wall. Can anyone tell me if this
can
be fixed short of replacing the entire throttle body? Is there some
kind of
seal or bearing where the bolt passes through? I am afraid to
take the
throttle lever off because it would cause the coiled spring to
unwind and I
wouldn't know how to put it back correctly.
Thanks.
Brian
92 Stealth RTTT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 08:27:55
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Throttle lever leaking air
> I have recently tried using a
homemade intake-pressure-tester like the ones
> being discussed on this
list a few weeks ago. I have already found and
> fixed several small
leaks but this one has me stumped. There is a very loud
> hissing
coming from around the throttle body. I can change the tone of the
>
hissing by wiggling the bolt/shaft on which the throttle lever &
throttle
> plate are mounted. I think that maybe the air is leaking
through where the
> bolt passes through the throttle body wall. Can
anyone tell me if this can
> be fixed short of replacing the entire
throttle body? Is there some kind of
> seal or bearing where the
bolt passes through? I am afraid to take the
> throttle lever off
because it would cause the coiled spring to unwind and I
> wouldn't know
how to put it back correctly. Thanks.
It is very common for the
butterfly plate shaft bushings on throttle bodies and
carburators to wear and
leak with age. Sometimes the dealer has replacement
bushings that you
can buy and thus replace yourself. Try calling one of the
lists
discount dealers to see if they sell the bushings seperately. If not,
you
can find a local auto shop to machine new bushings and replace them for
you. It
shouldn't be too expensive, maybe $75 or so.
One thing
you might want to try first. Disassemble the shaft and lube it
with
thick (wheel bearing) greese. That might seal it but I don't know
what psi will
blow the greese out. Might be worth a try
though.
Good luck.
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 15:09:00
-0500
From:
ukyo@avana.netSubject:
Team3S: Which year VR4?
Now that I have decided that I must have a VR4 at
all
costs, I am paused to define what year would be the
best bet.
I have read that certain features have been
removed from the newer VR4s (ECS
for one) and I would
like to get the most VR4 for my money. What year
is
considered the perfect year model to have? I have a
line on a
'96, but it is my understanding that it wil
not have ECS. Is ECS that
big of a deal? can you feel
a big difference in the suspension
modes? I have been
told that '94 would be the best bet, but I am
unsure.
If you guys can find the time to let me know your
opinions
I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in
advance.
-
--Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle /
Red)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#320
*********************