team3s Saturday, November 4 2000 Volume 01 : Number 315

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 10:57:36 -0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Trouble Holding Boost

Hello Cyrus,

Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 16:47:30 EST
From: NassiriC@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Trouble Holding Boost

I have a '97 vr-4 that I just got around to installing an accurate
electronic
boost gauge on (greddy 60mm w/peak hold and warning - very nice product I
recommend it), and I'm a little confused by what I'm seeing. In stock form
(other than an SMF), when I mash the throttle to the floor, I get a boost
spike to about .95bar (~13.5psi), then it rapidly drops to between .6 bar
and
..75 bar (8.5 - 10.6 psi), depending what gear I'm in, 1st and 2nd gear
drops
down to .6, 3rd and up drops to about .7 - .75 bar, eventually it all drops
off past 5000 rpm to below .5 (~7.1 psi). If I put it in 5th on the
freeway,
and mash the throttle, it holds around .8 bar (~11.4psi) until around 5000
rpm, then it drops off.

My question is this: are these boost levels normal with a stock setup?

- ---------------
As others have pointed out on the list, everything you described above is
normal for your car in the stock setup.
- ---------------

Also, I've heard a lot about the Blitz DSBC, but I'm also interested in the
Profec A. Does anyone have experience with the Profec A, and which one
would
you recommend? I've heard rumors about boost spikes with the Profec, but
I've never been able to pin down if these are real or not.

- --------------
I can speak from experience because my brother and I both have the APEXI
S-AVCR installed on our cars (94 TT and 95 VR4 thanks to the help of many
great individuals on this list). We are pleased with the results. The unit
has two settings, one for higher boost and one for lower boost. You can
adjust the boost based on an 8 point RPM band that you can increase in as
little as 500 RPM increments. The SAVC-R is deffinetly the most
computerized unit I've seen. It can monitor everything in digital form,
analog form, or moving chart mode. I still reccomend getting a boost gauge
on the side that is within easy view (ie. A-pillar). You can monitor boost,
RPM, speed, throttle position, injectors, and soleonoid. You can reccord
any of these values separate or together (1 channel-60 sec, 2 channel-30
sec, 4 channel-15 sec). Which means you can reccord up to 4 channels in a
quarter mile. You can also monitor the highest value for any wire unil you
reset it. That means you can see what your boost spiked to, what RPM you
shifted at, or what your top speed was before resetting it.

It has learning for all the gears. This unit also has the ability to
compensate/decrease any gear's duty settings. When in learning mode, if at
WOT, it will adjust for different barrometric pressure and altitude. Tuning
is best done with a helper initially, but for later you will figure out how
to do it all by yourself.

Just as a side note -- I didn't have time to fully finetune the unit
propperly with a cammcorder and to optimise the spoolup time (I think it can
be improved some), but my unit generally spines to 1.00-1.05 and can hold
1.00 to redline in gear 4 and 5. I'm not exactly sure why others can only
hold 12 psi in the high gears, but my brother's and mine hold 14.7 psi.
Gears 1 and 2 drop to 12 psi before redline (as you can tell, they are not
finetuned).

If you want I can give you the list of parts, prices, and where I bought
them from (S-AVCR, K&N FIPK air filter, Boost gauge, EGT meter-not hooked up
yet).

Happy hunting,

- -MIKE- aa2345@wayne.edu
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter

John, brother iraicu@cs.wayne.edu
94 Pearl Yellow TT
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
G Teck Pro 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
Top speed after mods 169 mph

Detroit Metro Area, Michigan

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 13:20:52 -0600
From: "stephanie cline" <scline25@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Front Wheel Bearings

I've got a couple of questions for you guys. My 94 SL makes a loud clunking
noise from the drivers front wheel on every bump. I lifted the wheel off the
ground and tried to wiggle the wheel and it wiggled at the 3:00 and 9:00
positions but not the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. None of the other wheels had
any play at all. Is this noise being caused by a bad wheel bearing or are
the other potential causes of this noise?

If it is the wheel bearing how do I go about fixing it. What parts and
special tools are required?

Thanks for your help.
Craig S.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 14:21:11 EST
From: GREEN3000GTO@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Headlights

- --part1_4c.c60e586.27346a27_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ok I do apologize for this subject again, but I cannot afford new head
lights. I own a 94 3000gt. Now group could you please tell me if you have
found a solution for removing the moister out of the head light cover. I know
they are factory sealed and in the past I have tried to open them which is
about impossible. The Mitsubishi parts dealer told me to fill the bath tub
full of water and then to lay the headlight cover in the water and see where
the bobbles is coming from then take a hair dry and to dry that same location
until all the moister is gone and to seal the area, but when I tried it the
cover filled up with water fast and the only place that I seen it bubbling is
at the back where the drain or vent hose is. Now group since that did not
work do you think that I could drill a small hole on the side of course not
seen when installed, but then take a blow dry and dry the moister out and
then plug the hole back up with some kind of gasket sealer??

Thank you.

- --part1_4c.c60e586.27346a27_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>Ok I do apologize for this subject again, but I cannot afford new head lights. I own a 94 3000gt. Now group could you please tell me if you have found a solution for removing the moister out of the head light cover. I know they are factory sealed and in the past I have tried to open them which is about impossible. The Mitsubishi parts dealer told me to fill the bath tub full of water and then to lay the headlight cover in the water and see where the bobbles is coming from then take a hair dry and to dry that same location until all the moister is gone and to seal the area, but when I tried it the cover filled up with water fast and the only place that I seen it bubbling is at the back where the drain or vent hose is. Now group since that did not work do you think that I could drill a small hole on the side of course not seen when installed, but then take a blow dry and dry the moister out and then plug the h!
ol!
e back up with some kind of gasket sealer??
 
 Thank you.</HTML>

- --part1_4c.c60e586.27346a27_boundary--

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2000 11:52:50 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Wheel Bearings

> I've got a couple of questions for you guys. My 94 SL makes a loud clunking
> noise from the drivers front wheel on every bump. I lifted the wheel off the
> ground and tried to wiggle the wheel and it wiggled at the 3:00 and 9:00
> positions but not the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. None of the other wheels had
> any play at all. Is this noise being caused by a bad wheel bearing or are
> the other potential causes of this noise?
>
> If it is the wheel bearing how do I go about fixing it. What parts and
> special tools are required?

To really find out if it is the wheel bearing, remove the wheel, remove the
brake pads, then grab the hub and wiggle it. It there is no play, then the
problem lies elsewhere. If the bearings are bad, you have to replace the whole
front hub since the bearings are sealed in the unit. It only costs $65 or so
from one of the lists discount dealers. You should be able to replace it
yourself or labor should be ~1-2 hours from a shop.

Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 12:12:05 -0800
From: "Gary Grahn" <Grahn@3Si.zzn.com>
Subject: Team3S: Intake Manifold

<html><head><meta Name='keywords' Content='commtouch, pronto, mail, free email, free, branded, web based, free web based email, communications, internet, software, advertising banners, e-mail, free software'></head><body ><div align='left'><blockquote><blockquote><TT>Anyone know the specific volume of the stock intake manifold?  Both 
of them together? 
 
Also, what size is the stock throttle body? 
 
Or flat out does anyone make an aftermarket piece?  Something similar 
to the ones the 3z guys have? 
 
Thanks, 
Gary 
</TT> 3SI STUFF! http://www.3si.org/pages/catalog.html ____________________________________________________________ Get your own Web-Based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com </blockquote></blockquote></div></body></html>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 13:27:31 -0800
From: "Gary Grahn" <Grahn@3Si.zzn.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oops! Volume....

Sorry bout that. Not used to the mail on this site.

Anyway! I know most of you deleted the last message cause that's
what I would do... :)

Does anyone knwo the volume of the stock intake manifold or even a
ported one? Or does anyone know if someone makes an upgrade that is
similar to the one the 3x guys have stock?

Thanks!
Gary

<sorry bout the previous message, this one better?>

3SI STUFF! http://www.3si.org/pages/catalog.html
____________________________________________________________
Get your own Web-Based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 16:18:07 -0600
From: "Thoms, Shane - SGIG" <sthoms@cardinalcorp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Wheel Bearings

If it was a wheel bearing, play should be seen at all "clock"
positions. What you describe makes me think tie rod ends, but
I dunno if that would create the noise.

Shane

- -----Original Message-----
From: stephanie cline [mailto:scline25@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 1:21 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Front Wheel Bearings

I've got a couple of questions for you guys. My 94 SL makes a loud clunking
noise from the drivers front wheel on every bump. I lifted the wheel off the
ground and tried to wiggle the wheel and it wiggled at the 3:00 and 9:00
positions but not the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. None of the other wheels had
any play at all. Is this noise being caused by a bad wheel bearing or are
the other potential causes of this noise?

If it is the wheel bearing how do I go about fixing it. What parts and
special tools are required?

Thanks for your help.
Craig S.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2000 22:40:28 GMT
From: "marc augellli" <marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: To buy or lease?

Hi Everyone,

 I have a 96 SL and I was looking at a 98 vr4 with
27,000 miles on for 27,500. Now my question is, is it
better to lease or buy it? I've leased my 96 sl and
about 7 months ago I purchase it. If I do go with a
lease what will the Residual Values be?
Thanks for any help,
marc
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
http://profiles.msn.com.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2000 18:05:24 -0600
From: "Greg S." <wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Team3S: Need bad Synchro definition ....

Hi all ... I've got a low mileage Stealth Twin Turbo and shortly after I
bought it I was convinced that I had the infamous 1-2 synchro problem
because when I go to shift from first to second it "feels" like it hits
a bump when I shift from 1 to 2 .... sort of like a hard hesitation if
you will. Anyway, I finally took it in to my dealer to check out and he
responded with that he didn't feel any problem when he drove it and told
me a few other things that sounded like a bit of BS to me. So my
question to those that know they've had the problem, can you describe
the symptoms of the problem in more detail so that I know if I'm right
or if I'm being BSed ..... Thanks much in advance.

Greg

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 18:02:02 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Wheel Bearings

check all of the bolts on the strut --- including the tower bolts and the main nut
on the top of the strut under the cover.

You're going to get some movement 3 to 9 [ steering slop ] but it should be the
same on both sides. As Mr. Shane said --- check the tie rod ends.

 Jim Berry
====================================================

> I've got a couple of questions for you guys. My 94 SL makes a loud clunking
> noise from the drivers front wheel on every bump. I lifted the wheel off the
> ground and tried to wiggle the wheel and it wiggled at the 3:00 and 9:00
> positions but not the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. None of the other wheels had
> any play at all. Is this noise being caused by a bad wheel bearing or are
> the other potential causes of this noise?
>
> If it is the wheel bearing how do I go about fixing it. What parts and
> special tools are required?
>
> Thanks for your help.
> Craig S.
>
>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 18:25:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oops! Volume....

The Team3S Archives are a beautiful thing. :) Check for more messages
around the date below. If you find, or someone else knows, of more
numbers or of flow measurements after porting I would be very
interested in them.

Oh yeah, at 7000 RPM and 100% VE our 2.972-L engine can flow 367 cfm
max. So 230 cfm from each head (if that is what the numbers below
indicate) seems to indicate that Mitsu gave us some excellent stuff.
:) :)

Jeff Lucius
---> http://www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Grahn" <Grahn@3Si.zzn.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 2:27 PM
Subject: Team3S: Oops! Volume....

Sorry bout that. Not used to the mail on this site.

Anyway! I know most of you deleted the last message cause that's
what I would do... :)

Does anyone knwo the volume of the stock intake manifold or even a
ported one? Or does anyone know if someone makes an upgrade that is
similar to the one the 3x guys have stock?

Thanks!
Gary

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 8:35 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: head porting advice

Those are baseline cfm as measured on a flowbench before porting.

Stock cam info is in the service manual. There may be a few profiles
available from small places but nothing in commodity or with anything
that backs them up. The Bozz Speed cams (last I *heard*) didn't work
and were being redone. Brian of GT Alley infamy allegedly had cams
but he refused or was unable to offer any details about them
whatsoever. Vapor-ware and automobiles don't go well together.

New billets (if you had a profile to cut) will cost upwards of $3000
for the first few. You can have regrinds done for about $50 a stick
if you know what you want.

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Basol, John
> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 6:51 AM
> To: team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: head porting advice
>
>
> Barry,
> Are those numbers CFM airflow through the ports!?!
>
> Anyone know what the stock cam profile for our engines is? Does
anyone
> offer any other profiles?
>
> John Basol
> '95 RT/TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Barry E. King [SMTP:beking@home.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 12:21 AM
> To: team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: head porting advice
>
> Just for kicks, give him these numbers and see what he says.
>
> These are the "before" measurements from my 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT
> VR4:
>
> Valve Intake Exhaust
> lift
> 0.100" 86 80
> 0.200" 165 164
> 0.300" 230 191
> 0.400" 246 195
> 0.500" 249 196
> 0.600" 251 196
>
> In the American engine world, these are very impressive numbers.
>
> Barry

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one Place.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 20:43:40 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need bad Synchro definition ....

> Hi all ... I've got a low mileage Stealth Twin Turbo and
> shortly after I bought it I was convinced that I had the
> infamous 1-2 synchro problem because when I go to shift
> from first to second it "feels" like it hits a bump when
> I shift from 1 to 2 .... sort of like a hard hesitation
> if you will.

There is a spring/ball/detent mechanism in the tranny to hold the shifter
forks in the neutral position to make neutral more easy to locate, which you
cross when shifting from 1-2, 3-4, etc. That kind of feels like a
"hesitation" during shifting. If your synchros are bad, it will make a
grinding feel. If it is a smooth action after the "bump", then I'd consider
the shift feel to be normal.

Crunching = bad
Bump = fine

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 12:21:37 -0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE: TMO DATALOGGER QUESTION FOR 94 95 VR4

Hey Mike,

My brother and I are doing some research on a starting point for this
project. We are mainly looking around for the OBD I and II protocols. They
are hard to find. Maybe Ken Middaugh will have some luck finding the OBD I
protocol. I don't guarantee that my brother can make a program, however, he
is an excellent programmer, so given the apropriate data he should be able
to make something for us in his spare time from school.

- -MIKE- aa2345@wayne.edu
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter

John, brother iraicu@cs.wayne.edu
94 Pearl Yellow TT
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
K&N FIPK, Boost Gauge, EGT Meter
G Teck 0-60 (4.9 sec) 1/4 mile (13.34 sec @ 112.4 mph)
Top speed after mods 169 mph

Detroit Metro Area, Michigan

TMO DATALOGGER QUESTION FOR 94 95 VR4

Ok so is someone getting organized on this? I have been planning on a
piggyback system, but if someone is seriously working on this I am most
definitely interested. Not only do I dislike the problems associated with
piggyback but the expense difference alone makes it worth it. Let alone the
idea of chopping up the harness :O

94 3000 VR4
Mike Murray

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #315
*********************