team3s
Thursday, November 2
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
313
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 1 Nov 2000 08:10:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Exhaust leak UPDATE
Ahh..sorry. Missed the N/A
bit. Catching up on a TON of Email
On Wed, 1 Nov 2000, Jannusch,
Matt wrote:
> > Of course..if anyone missed it.
> > Ive
got one for free.
> > San Jose, CA..come and get it.
>
>
The turbo downpipe won't fit a non-turbo car. The non-turbo doesn't
have
> pre-cats and has a curved piece that goes up in the front and mates
with the
> front exhaust manifold. I wouldn't be surprised if the
dimensions of the
> overall pipe lengths going to the manifolds are
different as well.
>
> Should be able to find one of those
downpipes in a junkyard somewhere
> reasonably easily. Should be
able to use one off any base model 3/S for
> sure, and the ones for SL/RT
are a "maybe". The service manuals don't make
> a distinction
between base/ES and SL/RT but do make distinctions between
> non-turbo and
turbo.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 11:43:21
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Snow Tires on 94 Stealth TT/AWD
Bridgestone Blizzaks are the
only winter tire I've used for the past few
years. Pittsburgh, PA gets
mostly slush and snow with occasional ice patchy
days. The Blizzak with
channels for slush are a great mix (MZ-01 variety).
The LM-22 is for low
sidewall and high speeds but I don't hit that in the
winter.
I have
brochures on some serious snow handling in New Zealand from a
magazine.
Email me off the list and I'll send you the details since not
many people
drive their cars in the winter.
Unfortunately, most magazines test snow
handling or ice handling and not a
mixture of both. Some tires now
("ice grippers") are no good in snow or
slush and vice versa. That's
why it will depend on your weather, driving
style, local road clearing
department, terrain, etc. The Tire Rack,
www.tirerack.com <
http://www.tirerack.com> , has some good
descriptions of
the tires and their staff always replies to emails quickly
and accurately.
I was fortunate enough to buy Rich Merritt's 17" SL
wheels which I am using
for winter as these fit over my stock 94+
caliper/rotor setup and replace
the 18" chrome wheels so they don't get
corroded as much.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/17" SL chrome wheels for the winter and Blizzak
MZ-01
tires on the way
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Reid [
mailto:mreidis@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
November 01, 2000 10:05 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Snow Tires on 94 Stealth TT/AWD
Hi Roger,
thanks for
your feedback.
At 09:27 AM 11/1/2000 +0100, Roger Gerl
wrote:
>No steel wheels fit our cars and it is definitely not
recommended !!!
Well that's what I've heard in the past from
everywhere, including my tire
dealer, but now he claims his book shows that
they have a 16" steel wheel
for my 94 TT. I'd be willing to try them out to
see if they fit with no
problems. If they don't fit I'll go with the
235/45/17's on the OEM wheels.
What do you mean by not recommended ? Not
safe to drive ? Not able to give
the performance of 17" wheels/tires ? Or
could cause something to break ?
I don't care that much about ultimate
dry performance.
Mike.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 11:21:18
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Sway bars
A pro photographer (cost me $40 for a set of pix) took
a picture of me
storming through turn 5 at Road America, with my left front
wheel almost
off the ground. I took a copy with me to the TransAm race, and
showed it
off proudly to our suspension guy and he said, "Humph! Lots of body
roll
there. You need stiffer fronts or a bigger sway bar."
Well,
bummer.
I already am as stiff as I care to go up front, so I guess I need a
bigger
sway bar. My expert suggests that I get an adjustable bar. Any ideas
out
there? Who sells bars for our cars? Addco?
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 09:48:56
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
Addco yes, but they will probly take 8 months to
produce them.
Go custom on the end-link configuration. Attach it
closer to the "center
axis" of the bar itself where it crosses the
car.
Ive done that on my MR2-Spyder (2001) and have increased stiffness
about
20% with a fabricated end-link connection that fits around the sway
bar
(infinitely adjustable because it slides on the bar and clamps to it)
and
saved $700 that TRD wants for the same thing.
On Wed, 1 Nov 2000,
Merritt wrote:
> A pro photographer (cost me $40 for a set of pix)
took a picture of me
> storming through turn 5 at Road America, with my
left front wheel almost
> off the ground. I took a copy with me to the
TransAm race, and showed it
> off proudly to our suspension guy and he
said, "Humph! Lots of body roll
> there. You need stiffer fronts or a
bigger sway bar."
>
> Well, bummer.
> I already am as stiff
as I care to go up front, so I guess I need a bigger
> sway bar. My expert
suggests that I get an adjustable bar. Any ideas out
> there? Who sells
bars for our cars? Addco?
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 09:52:14
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
A stiffer front bar will increase the propensity
for the inner front wheel to
lift, so I assume he meant a stiffer rear
anti-sway bar. A stiffer rear bar
should also make the rear end looser
too, so be careful. A good book to read is
Fred Puhn's "How To Make
Your Car Handle".
Addco's rear bar is supposedly only slightly larger
than the stock VR4 bar, can
anyone verify this? Not sure of other
companies with bars, and I haven't heard
of anny adjustable bars. Also,
the rear bar looks like a terrible pain to
install, probably requiring the
removal of the rear diff.
Stiffer springs is the easy route. Don't
you already have 550/350? It's time
to try 650!
Good
luck,
Ken
> A pro photographer (cost me $40 for a set of pix) took
a picture of me
> storming through turn 5 at Road America, with my left
front wheel almost
> off the ground. I took a copy with me to the TransAm
race, and showed it
> off proudly to our suspension guy and he said,
"Humph! Lots of body roll
> there. You need stiffer fronts or a bigger
sway bar."
>
> Well, bummer.
> I already am as stiff as I
care to go up front, so I guess I need a bigger
> sway bar. My expert
suggests that I get an adjustable bar. Any ideas out
> there? Who sells
bars for our cars? Addco?
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be
home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 12:52:41
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Sway bars
I agree here - From everything I've read, and looking
at different designs,
you need to keep the rear from rolling, and that will
keep the front from
doing the same. If you stiffen up the front, your
car is going to "push"
through turns, which is the VR-4's biggest handling
defect. You need to get
some of that body roll weight over the rear
tires, and the way to do that of
course, is to stiffen up the rear anti-roll
bar.
Question is - do you feel your springs are stiff enough as they
are??? You
may also try increasing the spring stiffness in the rear if
you wanna go -
the easy route. I would go for the anti-sway
bar. One question I've
always had about them - people
always talk about diameter and such, but
material should have an effect also
correct? Why is material never
mentioned???
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 11:52 AM
To:
Merritt
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
A stiffer front bar will increase the
propensity for the inner front wheel
to
lift, so I assume he meant a
stiffer rear anti-sway bar. A stiffer rear bar
should also make the
rear end looser too, so be careful. A good book to
read is
Fred
Puhn's "How To Make Your Car Handle".
Addco's rear bar is supposedly only
slightly larger than the stock VR4 bar,
can
anyone verify this? Not
sure of other companies with bars, and I haven't
heard
of anny adjustable
bars. Also, the rear bar looks like a terrible pain to
install,
probably requiring the removal of the rear diff.
Stiffer springs is the
easy route. Don't you already have 550/350? It's
time
to try
650!
Good luck,
Ken
> A pro photographer (cost me $40 for a
set of pix) took a picture of me
> storming through turn 5 at Road
America, with my left front wheel almost
> off the ground. I took a copy
with me to the TransAm race, and showed it
> off proudly to our suspension
guy and he said, "Humph! Lots of body roll
> there. You need stiffer
fronts or a bigger sway bar."
>
> Well, bummer.
> I already am
as stiff as I care to go up front, so I guess I need a bigger
> sway bar.
My expert suggests that I get an adjustable bar. Any ideas out
> there?
Who sells bars for our cars? Addco?
- --
If you lived in your car,
you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 11:08:50
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Sway bars, more thoughts
More thoughts...
You may
still want to try out a stiffer front anti-sway bar. If the
inside
wheel doesn't lift, you will probably be achieving better cornering
grip. A
graph of the anti-sway bar stiffness on the X axis VS the
Cornering Grip on the
Y axis looks like a bell curve. Less than optimum
stiffness causes too much
body roll which reduces negative camber which of
course reduces cornering grip.
More than optimum stiffness causes the inside
wheel to lift leaving less rubber
on the road which also reduces cornering
grip. Thus, as a front bar moves away
from optimum stiffness,
understeer increases. As a rear bar moves away from
optimum stiffness,
oversteer increases. Most likely, our stock bars probably
have less
than optimum stiffness so getting stiffer aftermarket bars will
probably
increase cornering grip. Some type of measurement, lap times,
lateral
G-Force, skid pad, is the only way to tell for sure.
Good
luck,
Ken
> A pro photographer (cost me $40 for a set of pix) took
a picture of me
> storming through turn 5 at Road America, with my left
front wheel almost
> off the ground. I took a copy with me to the TransAm
race, and showed it
> off proudly to our suspension guy and he said,
"Humph! Lots of body roll
> there. You need stiffer fronts or a bigger
sway bar."
>
> Well, bummer.
> I already am as stiff as I
care to go up front, so I guess I need a bigger
> sway bar. My expert
suggests that I get an adjustable bar. Any ideas out
> there? Who sells
bars for our cars? Addco?
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be
home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 13:52:07
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
At 09:52 AM 11/1/00 -0800, Ken Middaugh
wrote:
>A stiffer front bar will increase the propensity for the inner
front wheel to
>lift, so I assume he meant a stiffer rear anti-sway
bar.
No, I'm sure he said front sway bar.
>Stiffer
springs is the easy route. Don't you already have 550/350?
It's
time
>to try 650!
Geez, it's stiff enough up
there.
Rich
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 13:50:37
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
At 09:48 AM 11/1/00 -0800, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>Addco yes, but they will probly take 8 months to produce
them.
>Go custom on the end-link configuration. Attach it closer to
the "center
>axis" of the bar itself where it crosses the car.
>Ive
done that on my MR2-Spyder (2001) and have increased stiffness about
>20%
with a fabricated end-link connection that fits around the sway
bar
>(infinitely adjustable because it slides on the bar and clamps to it)
and
>saved $700 that TRD wants for the same
thing.
>
Geoff:
I'm not sure I followed everything you said.
Could you explain again about
the "Go custom on the end-link
configuration."
What?? $700 for a %$%$#@ sway bar? Are they
crazy?
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 13:53:40
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Sway bars, more thoughts
At 11:08 AM 11/1/00 -0800, Ken
Middaugh wrote:
>More thoughts...
>
>You may still want to try
out a stiffer front anti-sway bar.
Not for $700, I won't. Druther
get stiffer springs.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 13:54:36
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
Thanks Cody.
I am more confused than
ever.
Rich
At 12:52 PM 11/1/00 -0600, cody wrote:
>I agree
here - From everything I've read, and looking at different designs,
>you
need to keep the rear from rolling, and that will keep the front
from
>doing the same. If you stiffen up the front, your car is going
to "push"
>through turns, which is the VR-4's biggest handling
defect. You need to get
>some of that body roll weight over the rear
tires, and the way to do that of
>course, is to stiffen up the rear
anti-roll bar.
>
>Question is - do you feel your springs are stiff
enough as they are??? You
>may also try increasing the spring
stiffness in the rear if you wanna go -
>the easy route. I would go
for the anti-sway bar. One question I've
>always had
about them - people always talk about diameter and such, but
>material
should have an effect also correct? Why is material
never
>mentioned???
>
>-Cody
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
>Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 11:52
AM
>To: Merritt
>Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
>
>
>A stiffer front bar will increase
the propensity for the inner front wheel
>to
>lift, so I assume he
meant a stiffer rear anti-sway bar. A stiffer rear bar
>should also
make the rear end looser too, so be careful. A good book to
>read
is
>Fred Puhn's "How To Make Your Car Handle".
>
>Addco's rear
bar is supposedly only slightly larger than the stock VR4
bar,
>can
>anyone verify this? Not sure of other companies
with bars, and I haven't
>heard
>of anny adjustable bars.
Also, the rear bar looks like a terrible pain to
>install, probably
requiring the removal of the rear diff.
>
>Stiffer springs is the
easy route. Don't you already have 550/350?
It's
>time
>to try 650!
>
>Good
luck,
>Ken
>
>> A pro photographer (cost me $40 for a set
of pix) took a picture of me
>> storming through turn 5 at Road
America, with my left front wheel almost
>> off the ground. I took a
copy with me to the TransAm race, and showed it
>> off proudly to our
suspension guy and he said, "Humph! Lots of body roll
>> there. You
need stiffer fronts or a bigger sway bar."
>>
>> Well,
bummer.
>> I already am as stiff as I care to go up front, so I guess I
need a bigger
>> sway bar. My expert suggests that I get an adjustable
bar. Any ideas out
>> there? Who sells bars for our cars?
Addco?
>
>
>--
>If you lived in your car, you'd be home
by now.
>
>Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
>General
Atomics
>San Diego
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 15:52:59
EST
From:
GREEN3000GTO@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
plugs & plugs wire
this is what I have found out so fare. The Bosch
Premium plugwires is # 1 as
for the best to use, but you have to use
the NGK plugs for our car if it is
tubo or none then it is still NGK......
for turbo or none turbo. If I am
wrong then please advise.
Thank
you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 16:47:30
EST
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Trouble Holding Boost
Hi all,
I'm new to this list, and new to
3S cars, I have a lot of general turbo
performance experience, but no
specific experience with 3S's, so I have a 3S
question I really need some
help with that I hope you guys can answer.
I have a '97 vr-4 that I just
got around to installing an accurate electronic
boost gauge on (greddy 60mm
w/peak hold and warning - very nice product I
recommend it), and I'm a
little confused by what I'm seeing. In stock form
(other than an SMF),
when I mash the throttle to the floor, I get a boost
spike to about .95bar
(~13.5psi), then it rapidly drops to between .6 bar and
.75 bar (8.5 - 10.6
psi), depending what gear I'm in, 1st and 2nd gear drops
down to .6, 3rd and
up drops to about .7 - .75 bar, eventually it all drops
off past 5000 rpm to
below .5 (~7.1 psi). If I put it in 5th on the freeway,
and mash the
throttle, it holds around .8 bar (~11.4psi) until around 5000
rpm, then it
drops off.
My question is this: are these boost levels normal with
a stock setup? I
know the '97's should have a max boost of 12 psi, and
I realize the boost
spikes to 13.5 psi I'm getting are a result of the slow
response from the
factory waste gates, but shouldn't the 9G's be able to
hold at least .8 bar
(~11.4psi) up to at least 5000 rpm in all gears?
Should I suspect a leaky
BOV or bad waste gates, or maybe even a leak some
place else in my system? I
tapped the FPR hose to get the boost signal
for my gauge, could this be a
problem?
I sure would like to get
advice from you guys before I tear into my car
trying to replace the BOV and
waste gates. If this is normal for a stock set
up, will a after market
boost controller be able to help me maintain .8 bar
in all gears to ~ 5000
rpm?
Also, I've heard a lot about the Blitz DSBC, but I'm also interested
in the
Profec A. Does anyone have experience with the Profec A, and
which one would
you recommend? I've heard rumors about boost spikes
with the Profec, but
I've never been able to pin down if these are real or
not.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 14:59:14
-0700
From: "Jon Bach" <
bach@boostinside.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Trouble Holding Boost
I'm not really sure how the 3S's are set
up, but that could very well be an
intake leak of some kind. Make sure all
your hoseclamps are on tight, and
you have no vacuum hoses that are leaking.
Probably one of the best places
to start looking is the line between the
turbo wastegate and wherever the
other end is connected (on DSM's it's off
the turbo outlet). The way a lot
of restrictor boost controllers work they'll
cause heavy spiking, so just
look for kinks in the hose, or the hose not
being on all the way. I noticed
after I removed some restrictions in my
intake and exhaust, at stock boost
it'll spike to about 11 psi and drop down
to 9 psi. It could be something
you just can't fix, or something that has
always been there.
Jon Bach
1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Albuquerque,
New Mexico
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
NassiriC@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, November 01, 2000 2:47 PM
Subject: Team3S: Trouble Holding
Boost
> Hi all,
> I'm new to this list, and new to 3S cars,
I have a lot of general turbo
> performance experience, but no specific
experience with 3S's, so I have a
3S
> question I really need some help
with that I hope you guys can answer.
>
> I have a '97 vr-4 that I
just got around to installing an accurate
electronic
> boost gauge on
(greddy 60mm w/peak hold and warning - very nice product I
> recommend
it), and I'm a little confused by what I'm seeing. In
stock
form
> (other than an SMF), when I mash the throttle to the
floor, I get a boost
> spike to about .95bar (~13.5psi), then it rapidly
drops to between .6 bar
and
> .75 bar (8.5 - 10.6 psi), depending what
gear I'm in, 1st and 2nd gear
drops
> down to .6, 3rd and up drops to
about .7 - .75 bar, eventually it all
drops
> off past 5000 rpm to
below .5 (~7.1 psi). If I put it in 5th on the
freeway,
> and
mash the throttle, it holds around .8 bar (~11.4psi) until around 5000
>
rpm, then it drops off.
>
> My question is this: are these boost
levels normal with a stock setup? I
> know the '97's should have a
max boost of 12 psi, and I realize the boost
> spikes to 13.5 psi I'm
getting are a result of the slow response from the
> factory waste gates,
but shouldn't the 9G's be able to hold at least .8
bar
> (~11.4psi) up
to at least 5000 rpm in all gears? Should I suspect a leaky
> BOV or
bad waste gates, or maybe even a leak some place else in my system?
I
>
tapped the FPR hose to get the boost signal for my gauge, could this be
a
> problem?
>
> I sure would like to get advice from you guys
before I tear into my car
> trying to replace the BOV and waste
gates. If this is normal for a stock
set
> up, will a after
market boost controller be able to help me maintain .8
bar
> in all
gears to ~ 5000 rpm?
>
> Also, I've heard a lot about the Blitz
DSBC, but I'm also interested in
the
> Profec A. Does anyone have
experience with the Profec A, and which one
would
> you
recommend? I've heard rumors about boost spikes with the Profec,
but
> I've never been able to pin down if these are real or not.
>
Thanks in advance for your help.
> Cyrus
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 18:00:59
EST
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Trouble Holding Boost
In a message dated 11/1/00 1:49:41 PM
Pacific Standard Time,
NassiriC@aol.com
writes:
> Hi all,
> I'm new to this list, and new to
3S cars, I have a lot of general turbo
> performance experience,
but no specific experience with 3S's, so I have a
3S
>
Welcome
> question I really need some help with that I hope you
guys can answer.
>
OK
> I have a '97 vr-4 that I
just got around to installing an accurate
> electronic
>
boost gauge on (greddy 60mm w/peak hold and warning - very nice product I
> recommend it), and I'm a little confused by what I'm
seeing. In stock
form
> (other than an SMF), when I mash
the throttle to the floor, I get a boost
> spike to about .95bar
(~13.5psi), then it rapidly drops to between .6 bar
> and
>
.75 bar (8.5 - 10.6 psi), depending what gear I'm in, 1st and 2nd gear
drops
>
> down to .6, 3rd and up drops to about .7 - .75 bar,
eventually it all
drops
> off past 5000 rpm to below .5 (~7.1
psi). If I put it in 5th on the
freeway,
>
>
and mash the throttle, it holds around .8 bar (~11.4psi) until around 5000
> rpm, then it drops off.
>
> My
question is this: are these boost levels normal with a stock setup? I
> know the '97's should have a max boost of 12 psi, and I realize
the boost
> spikes to 13.5 psi I'm getting are a result of the slow
response from the
> factory waste gates, but shouldn't the 9G's be
able to hold at least .8
bar
> (~11.4psi) up to at least 5000
rpm in all gears? Should I suspect a leaky
> BOV or bad waste
gates, or maybe even a leak some place else in my system?
The spike is
normal however you should be able to hold 12 psi. Many people
have had a
problem with leaky BOV, myself included. At about 3500 RPM if you
hear a
kind of short honking sound this is your BOV leaking. I removed it and
installed an apexi BOV. The only problem with this is the ECU plans on the
extra air being there, so whats happens when you vent this air to the
atmosphere is the car will richen and stumble when you release the gas or
push the clutch in. I did not have this problem with my apex but I have seen
it happen with other BOV's. With a fuel controller like the apexi you can
overcome this occurance.
> I
> tapped the FPR hose to get
the boost signal for my gauge, could this be a
> problem?
That
may not be an accurate place to put it, the best place to put it is
directly
on the intake plenum, this is where mine is.
>
> I sure
would like to get advice from you guys before I tear into my car
>
trying to replace the BOV and waste gates. If this is normal for a stock
> set
> up, will a after market boost controller be able to
help me maintain .8
bar
> in all gears to ~ 5000 rpm?
My vr4
will hold 15 psi to 5000 with a manual boost controller, and stock 9B
turbos.
>
> Also, I've heard a lot about the Blitz
DSBC, but I'm also interested in
the
> Profec A. Does
anyone have experience with the Profec A, and which one
> would
It
is also possible that you have a boost leak. Look at this page to properly
pressure test the boost system.
http://www.ecanfix.com/~amit/>
you recommend? I've heard rumors about boost spikes with the Profec, but
> I've never been able to pin down if these are real or
not.
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
Cyrus
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 19:30:00
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sway bars
I recently bought the front and rear Addco bars listed
at Curts site from
Carparts.com and received both in like three days.
Unfortunately, I was
told the rear bar will only fit the SL and I returned
both cause I really
wanted a stiffer rear bar, but figured the two were tuned
to work together
better. Was that correct? Is the bar Addco lists
only for the FWD cars?
Those bars after the discount were like $250 for both,
nowhere near $700.
If we could get a group buy going for the two bars, maybe
they could make
them for the AWD at around the same
price.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Cc:
stealth@starnet.net <
stealth@starnet.net>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, November 01, 2000 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Sway
bars
>At 09:48 AM 11/1/00 -0800, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>>Addco yes, but they will probly take 8 months to produce
them.
>>Go custom on the end-link configuration. Attach it closer
to the "center
>>axis" of the bar itself where it crosses the
car.
>>Ive done that on my MR2-Spyder (2001) and have increased
stiffness about
>>20% with a fabricated end-link connection that fits
around the sway bar
>>(infinitely adjustable because it slides on the
bar and clamps to it) and
>>saved $700 that TRD wants for the same
thing.
>>
>Geoff:
>
>I'm not sure I followed
everything you said. Could you explain again about
>the "Go custom on the
end-link configuration."
>What?? $700 for a %$%$#@ sway bar? Are they
crazy?
>
>Rich
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 18:45:13
EST
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Trouble Holding Boost
Mike,
Thanks for your quick reply, I
do get the honking noise around 3500 rpm ever
since I installed the HKS SMF,
maybe I always had it, but I just hear it now
because of the open air fliter
- I've heard the oil in the smf filter could
possibly cause a leak in the
bov(fiction?).
Does this mean it's only leaking when I hear the honk, or
does it generally
inticate that I have a leak all the time. I don't
get the honk every time.
Is there a BOV that I can buy that will vent
back into the intake like the
stock unit, or will I have to rig something
myself?
Thanks for your help
Cyrus
>The spike is normal
however you should be able to hold >12 psi. Many people
>have had a
problem with leaky BOV, myself included. At >about 3500 RPM if
you
>hear a kind of short honking sound this is your BOV >leaking. I
removed it
and
>installed an apexi BOV. The only problem with this is
>the ECU plans on the
>extra air being there, so whats happens when you
vent >this air to the
>atmosphere is the car will richen and stumble
when you >release the gas or
>push the clutch in.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 18:39:28
-0600
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Electrical Issues
Greetings,
Hello there, first off
I'm new to theTeam3S list, so howdyados to
everybody. I recently acquired a
93 Stealth ES, Automatic, green w/ tan
interior 129k. I actually purchased
the car at a very good price, expecting
atleast a broken timing belt and the
possibility of cyl. head damage and so
on. But, it turns out that so far
after a little probing and diagnosing, the
following things were wrong: dead
battery, blown ignition fuse, dirty and
loose batt. terminals, fouled out
plugs, 1 quart of oil in the motor, AND
water inside the engine along with
plenty of sludgey debris! The last part
was surely due to the fact that it
had been ran
with no air filter for a mysterious amount of time. Well, upon
finally
cranking the motor over (by the way the cams had a fairly good amount
of
rust accumulated on the lobes) I blew out all of the water, and now
she
cranks right up everytime like a saint! I just have to get back behind
the
'runners' and replace the other 3 plugs, which i noticed you guys
recommend
ngk or denson, but i picked up bosch platinum by cross referencing
(not the
same one they list in their system for it) what was in there before
and
comparing to another Autozone called for to make sure it seemed like
a
match.
Since they were only 1.79 each, and they didnt carry NGK,
and they were out
of still another, i went with those. I wouldnt think,
atleast, there would
be any issues with heat ranges and so on.
Here
is what remains next and IS an issue: first, the key won't lock and
release
inside the ignition switch, and when i open the door the alarm ( i
assume)
activates the lights into blinking (until i turn the ignition
forward and
back once or twice). Second, the windows won't operate, and
third the
headlights won't fall back down into place, although they do come
on. I was
of the thinking there could be a switch, relay, fuse, or ic
controller of
some variety to blame, perhaps for all three. All the fuses
seem okay though.
Any thoughts on the matter? Is it possibily the alarm at
fault here? If you
recommend disabling it, how would i do so?
Also, i suppose not knowing
the history of the vehicle, one of the next
things i should do very soon is
replace that dog-gone timing belt. I found
the description on the site
a little hazey concerning the tension setting
bit, although i suppose that is
bound to seem abstract to one who's never
seen the part up close, and who
hasn't picked up the manual yet. Thanks to
whomever wrote that one up; i
printed out the pages for future reference
already.
Now, the only
other thing i guess is to finish removing that crusty
tint
job!
regards,
john 93 Stealth
ES
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 18:24:20
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
>If we could get a group buy going for the two
bars, maybe they could make
>them for the AWD at around the same
price.
Count me in.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 17:22:41
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Member in Puerto Rico needs VR4 help (in Spanish...)
Hey, folks,
I
can't communicate with one of our members to let him know that our
list
software rejects posts with fonts or formatting. He speaks very
little
English. He has tried to post to the list, but it bounces back
to
me. Please contact him privately, and at least explain how to
change
his email into "text-only". Thanks in advance... Here is
(my
paraphrase of) his message:
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wed, 1 Nov 2000 09:11:37 -0800
Hi !
I need some help! I have
a 3000GT VR4 for about 3 months and it's not
working very good. I need to fix
a couple of things and need somebody
who speaks Spanish in our group, so they
can help me in my language. I
don't know enough about mechanics, but I
have to do it by myself because
I don't have money to pay. I am a
student, and I do not work.
Sorry for my English, but I hope somebody can
understand me and wants to
help.
Thanks,
Jesus Rodriguez
alkar@prtc.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 17:40:32
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
> always had about them - people always talk
about diameter and such, but
> material should have an effect also
correct? Why is material never
> mentioned???
- ---
Most
are simple spring steel. But you bring up a GOOD point.
Theres lots
of very capable HOLLOW tube sway bars out there as well...just
depends on the
application and rate of stiffness you want.
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 17:48:25
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
If you are able to find a way..to attach the
end-link farther away from
the end of the bar (closer to the middle where it
crosses the car) it will
be stiffer.
A race fabrication shop could
easily make something up..might have to make
up custom links, but what you
end up with is a setup that can be
infinitely adjustable on BOTH sides..where
you might want a stiffer LEFT
turn bar at one track..and more RIGHT turn
stiffness at another..etc.
Also very easy to mark, and move.
One
other trick ive seen on lots of cars (some cars are more pita than
others) is
to attach the end link on the non-sway-bar end to the portion
of the strut
body that turns when the wheel does. When done right, this
will pull UP
on the sway-bar as you turn the wheel even without any actual
body
roll. Increases turn-in, and helps amplify the bar stiffness the
more
you have the wheel turned.
The $700 is a kit..bars, links, bushings..BS
BS BS
And no..theyre not crazy. If I was TRD, Id charge $700 as
well..because
people will pay it.
On Wed, 1 Nov 2000, Merritt
wrote:
> At 09:48 AM 11/1/00 -0800, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
>Addco yes, but they will probly take 8 months to produce them.
>
>Go custom on the end-link configuration. Attach it closer to the
"center
> >axis" of the bar itself where it crosses the car.
>
>Ive done that on my MR2-Spyder (2001) and have increased stiffness
about
> >20% with a fabricated end-link connection that fits around the
sway bar
> >(infinitely adjustable because it slides on the bar and
clamps to it) and
> >saved $700 that TRD wants for the same
thing.
> >
> Geoff:
>
> I'm not sure I followed
everything you said. Could you explain again about
> the "Go custom on the
end-link configuration."
> What?? $700 for a %$%$#@ sway bar? Are they
crazy?
>
> Rich
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 17:53:58
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
Really..last spring when I wanted a set, they said
(addco) they wouldnt
make more till they had 10 orders..and that usually
(according to them)
takes 6-9 months to get.
I choose not to support
people who operate on the business model of "Screw
you..when we get around to
it" which is also why I gave up on the GT-Pro
and thier vapor-ware CF
Hood.
On Wed, 1 Nov 2000, Sam Shelat wrote:
> I recently bought
the front and rear Addco bars listed at Curts site from
> Carparts.com and
received both in like three days. Unfortunately, I was
> told the
rear bar will only fit the SL and I returned both cause I really
> wanted
a stiffer rear bar, but figured the two were tuned to work together
>
better. Was that correct? Is the bar Addco lists only for the FWD
cars?
> Those bars after the discount were like $250 for both, nowhere
near $700.
> If we could get a group buy going for the two bars, maybe
they could make
> them for the AWD at around the same price.
>
> Sam
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
To: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
Cc:
stealth@starnet.net <
stealth@starnet.net>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 8:01 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Sway
bars
>
>
> >At 09:48 AM 11/1/00 -0800, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
> >>Addco yes, but they will probly take 8 months to produce
them.
> >>Go custom on the end-link configuration. Attach it
closer to the "center
> >>axis" of the bar itself where it crosses
the car.
> >>Ive done that on my MR2-Spyder (2001) and have
increased stiffness about
> >>20% with a fabricated end-link
connection that fits around the sway bar
> >>(infinitely adjustable
because it slides on the bar and clamps to it) and
> >>saved $700
that TRD wants for the same thing.
> >>
> >Geoff:
>
>
> >I'm not sure I followed everything you said. Could you explain
again about
> >the "Go custom on the end-link configuration."
>
>What?? $700 for a %$%$#@ sway bar? Are they crazy?
> >
>
>Rich
> >
> >*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 19:45:36
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
>Most are simple spring steel. But you
bring up a GOOD point.
>Theres lots of very capable HOLLOW tube sway bars
out there as well...just
>depends on the application and rate of stiffness
you want.
>
So what do you use?
Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 18:01:03
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
On what?
The supra has ST bars, celica
stock+adjustments.
VR4 wont need stiffer ones as its "missing" about
1,000lbs right now.
On Wed, 1 Nov 2000, Merritt wrote:
>
>Most are simple spring steel. But you bring up a GOOD point.
>
>Theres lots of very capable HOLLOW tube sway bars out there as
well...just
> >depends on the application and rate of stiffness you
want.
> >
> So what do you use?
>
> Rich
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 20:42:17
-0600
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Member in Puerto Rico needs VR4 help (in Spanish...)
Hey Bob,
I
know virtually no Spanish, but I ran into a similar situation when I
first
started working with one of my company's manufacturing sites that
was
located deep in Mexico. After a little bit of searching I found a
free
website where you can cut and past one language (i.e. spanish) into
the
dialog box, select spanish to english on the selector, then hit
translate
and it converts it automatically. It is not exactly fool
proof and it will
end up selecting a wrong word every now and again if a word
has multiple
meanings, but all in all it works very well .... well enough to
understand
the intended meaning. I was using it for technical
conversations, so it
should work fine for mechanical discussions. Here
is the URL for the
website. I hope it helps. Just for Jesus'
benefit, I'll run this text that
I've just typed through the translator and
attach it to the end of my
message. Good Luck!
Greg
http://www.studyspanish.com/translator.htmTranslation:
Hey
Bob, No sé virtualmente ningún español, sino yo me ejecuté en una
situación
similar cuándo
primero comencé a trabajar con uno de los sitios de
fabricación de mi
compañía que fue situado
profundamente en Méjico.
Después de que un poco buscando de mí encontrara un
website libre
donde
usted puede cortar y más allá de un lenguaje (es decir español) en
el
rectángulo de
diálogo, el español selecto al inglés en el selector,
entonces golpeó
traduce y lo convierte
automáticamente. No es exactamente
a toda prueba y terminará encima de
seleccionar una
palabra incorrecta
cada ocasionalmente si una palabra tiene significados
múltiples, pero
todos
en todos lo que trabaja muy bien.... bastante bien para entender
el
significado previsto. Lo
utilizaba para las conversaciones técnicas,
así que debe trabajar muy bien
para las discusiones
mecánicas. Aquí está
el URL para el website. Espero que ayude.
Apenas para la ventaja de Jesus,
ejecutaré este texto que acabo de pulsar a
través del traductor
y lo
asociaré al extremo de mi mensaje. Buena Suerte!
Greg
Bob Forrest
wrote:
> Hey, folks,
>
> I can't communicate with one of
our members to let him know that our
> list software rejects posts with
fonts or formatting. He speaks very
> little English. He has
tried to post to the list, but it bounces back
> to me. Please
contact him privately, and at least explain how to change
> his email into
"text-only". Thanks in advance... Here is (my
> paraphrase of)
his message:
>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 09:11:37 -0800
>
> Hi !
>
> I need
some help! I have a 3000GT VR4 for about 3 months and it's not
>
working very good. I need to fix a couple of things and need somebody
>
who speaks Spanish in our group, so they can help me in my language.
I
> don't know enough about mechanics, but I have to do it by myself
because
> I don't have money to pay. I am a student, and I do not
work.
>
> Sorry for my English, but I hope somebody can understand
me and wants to
> help.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jesus
Rodriguez
>
alkar@prtc.net>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 20:14:45
-0700
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trouble Holding Boost
8psi of boost is typical to stock
setups. You really need to get a boost
controller for more boost.
What you are describing is normal. You're not
going to get .95 bar
without a boost controller. It's not that our stock
turbos won't handle
it, mine will go above 1.2 bar, maybe higher, but that's
with a boost
controller too.
Ken
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
NassiriC@aol.comSent:
Wednesday, November 01, 2000 2:48 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Trouble Holding Boost
Hi all,
I'm new to this list, and
new to 3S cars, I have a lot of general turbo
performance experience, but no
specific experience with 3S's, so I have a 3S
question I really need some
help with that I hope you guys can answer.
I have a '97 vr-4 that I just
got around to installing an accurate
electronic
boost gauge on (greddy
60mm w/peak hold and warning - very nice product I
recommend it), and I'm a
little confused by what I'm seeing. In stock form
(other than an SMF),
when I mash the throttle to the floor, I get a boost
spike to about .95bar
(~13.5psi), then it rapidly drops to between .6 bar
and
.75 bar (8.5 -
10.6 psi), depending what gear I'm in, 1st and 2nd gear drops
down to .6, 3rd
and up drops to about .7 - .75 bar, eventually it all drops
off past 5000 rpm
to below .5 (~7.1 psi). If I put it in 5th on the
freeway,
and mash
the throttle, it holds around .8 bar (~11.4psi) until around 5000
rpm, then
it drops off.
My question is this: are these boost levels normal with a
stock setup? I
know the '97's should have a max boost of 12 psi, and I
realize the boost
spikes to 13.5 psi I'm getting are a result of the slow
response from the
factory waste gates, but shouldn't the 9G's be able to hold
at least .8 bar
(~11.4psi) up to at least 5000 rpm in all gears? Should
I suspect a leaky
BOV or bad waste gates, or maybe even a leak some place
else in my system?
I
tapped the FPR hose to get the boost signal for my
gauge, could this be a
problem?
I sure would like to get advice from
you guys before I tear into my car
trying to replace the BOV and waste
gates. If this is normal for a stock
set
up, will a after market
boost controller be able to help me maintain .8 bar
in all gears to ~ 5000
rpm?
Also, I've heard a lot about the Blitz DSBC, but I'm also interested
in the
Profec A. Does anyone have experience with the Profec A, and
which one
would
you recommend? I've heard rumors about boost spikes
with the Profec, but
I've never been able to pin down if these are real or
not.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 22:27:49
-0800
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Throttle Position Sensor
Hello everyone,
How difficult would
it be to have my throttle position sensor replaced? I
plan on trying to do
this myself... is it possible to do so for someone who
has almost no
experience with cars? BTW, I have a base '92 Stealth.
Thanks in
advance!
Regards
Dusan
*** Info:
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 23:25:48
EST
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Trouble Holding Boost
In a message dated 11/1/00 3:45:14 PM
Pacific Standard Time, NassiriC writes:
> Mike,
> Thanks
for your quick reply, I do get the honking noise around 3500 rpm
ever
> since I installed the HKS SMF, maybe I always had it, but I just hear
it
now
> because of the open air fliter - I've heard the oil in the
smf filter could
> possibly cause a leak in the bov(fiction?).
No
there is more oil in the intercooling piping than you would get from an
air
filter typically unless it has been over oiled.
>
>
Does this mean it's only leaking when I hear the honk, or does it
generally
> inticate that I have a leak all the time. I don't get the honk
every time.
No that is when it is leaking the most. The rest of the time
it is minor.
They all do it, it is a manufacturing flaw (thanks
mitsu).
>
> Is there a BOV that I can buy that will
vent back into the intake like the
> stock unit, or will I have to rig
something myself?
Yes you will have to rig it yourself some people here
on the list have used
the 1st generation BOV from the DSM (eclipse,talon),
but it requires the
making of a flange.
> Thanks for your
help
> Cyrus
>
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 23:30:40
EST
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Trouble Holding Boost
In a message dated 11/1/00 7:16:28 PM
Pacific Standard Time,
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com
writes:
> 8psi of boost is typical to stock setups. You really
need to get a boost
> controller for more boost. What you are
describing is normal. You're not
> going to get .95 bar
without a boost controller. It's not that our stock
> turbos
won't handle it, mine will go above 1.2 bar, maybe higher, but
that's
> with a boost controller too.
>
Unless I
am mistaken I am pretty sure the 94+ models wastegate actuates at 12
psi.
The earlier models were set to hold to about 8 psi. But absolutely a
electronic boost controller will even out, and raise the pressure that you
can hold.
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 23:32:28
EST
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Throttle Position Sensor
In a message dated 11/1/00 7:26:17 PM
Pacific Standard Time,
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com
writes:
> Hello everyone,
> How difficult would it be to
have my throttle position sensor replaced? I
> plan on trying to do
this myself... is it possible to do so for someone who
> has almost
no experience with cars? BTW, I have a base '92 Stealth.
> Thanks in
advance!
>
With the manual and the part this is very easy to
do.
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 00:54:44
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trouble Holding Boost
> Unless I am mistaken I am pretty
sure the 94+ models
> wastegate actuates at 12 psi. The earlier models
were
> set to hold to about 8 psi. But absolutely a
> electronic
boost controller will even out, and raise
> the pressure that you can
hold.
You are mistaken. ;-)
The wastegates are identical
across all models and years, opening somewhere
between 6 and 8 psi. The
'91-93 cars have a small plastic orifice
restrictor inserted into the boost
control solenoid which reduces the amount
of pressure it can bleed away from
the wastegate signal line and allowing
somewhere around 8-10 psi of boost to
be generated. The '94-99 cars do not
have the orifice restrictor,
allowing more pressure to be bled away from the
wastegates and upping boost a
couple more psi.
The stock boost control system is going to be the least
accurate way to go,
as with any bleed-off style boost controller.
Switch to a pressure-control
manual controller or a high quality electronic
controller and you'll see
much better boost control.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 09:48:51
-0000
From: <
martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S:
Speedo help
Hi All
My speedo has packed in, anyone got any ideas
on where i can start
troubleshooting?
It's 92 GTO TT
Thanks in
advance
Martin
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 06:24:27
EST
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Kid in a candy store
Ok, so I've probably over extended my
'question' privilege on this great
list, but I got such a great response
from my last question, I just have to
ask another one, before I ask, I just
have to say thanks to all the great
guys that responded to my last
question:
Mike M. - thanks for clearing up the 'honk' thing
Ken M.
Ken
('92 RT/TT)
Gordon
George
Bob F. - thanks for the original invite to
the list, and reminding me about
the 3si/3S thing.
All great guys, that I
thank a lot for taking time out of their busy days to
respond to my post -
thanks!
My question: Boost controllers - what do you all
recommend? Blitz, HKS,
Greddy, so many to choose from, so few
facts.... as a long time software
engineer, the 'fuzzy logic' of the hks and
Greddy appeal to me, but I've only
been able to get first hand accounts
about the Blitz (DSBC). 3S Veterans out
there must have strong
opinions about these controllers - personal
experiences, first hand
knowledge, urban legends ... any info, I'll take it!
Side Note: I'm
looking for a few junk (cracked, warped, wasted) 3S heads to
try some
porting and polishing on. I have access to a good flow bench and I
have a lot of experience prepping heads. I'll pay shipping to my
house. If
things work out, I'll prep your good heads for FREE as a
thanks for taking
the time to send me your junk heads. I'm not
promising anything big here,
and I only need a few heads with at least one
good combustion chamber ( no
cracks, valve dings, and the intake and exhaust
valves must be in place). If
you have some junk 3S heads let me know
and we'll see what we can work out.
Thanks
Cyrus
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