team3s
Wednesday, October 25
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
305
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Oct 2000 22:13:45 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Warped Rotor Question
Okay, here's my weekly question:
I think I
have warped rotors, but there is something strange that doesn't
make sense to
me. When I brake, sometimes the steering wheel shakes really
bad, and
other times it hardly shakes at all. If the rotors were
warped,
wouldn't the amount of shaking be the same everytime I hit the
brake?
Should I suspect something else is
wrong?
Thanks,
Chris
92 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 07:40:45
EDT
From:
GREEN3000GTO@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Looking for parts
Hello Everyone,
I am new to this list and I have
just been reading the post the last few
days. I am glad to be on this
mailing list and I also love the 3000gt and
Stealths. I own a 1994 3000gt sl
and I wreck it here a wile back and I am
looking for these parts If anyone
know where to find them. Both side mirrors,
bottlem skirt for driverside,
Hood, fog light.
Thank you.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 07:07:19
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
Could be an unbalanced wheel, but
that's usually reproducible. Could be a
bent front axle (problems in
the rear rarely transmit to the steering
wheel). Could be bad front
wheel bearings. Isn't there a steering rack
that can get worn? If
you figure it out, post it. My son's '93 has the
same problem and it's
not rotors, pads, wheels,tires, or wheel bearings.
How many miles on your
car?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Maxwell [
SMTP:shmacker@home.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, October 25, 2000 12:14 AM
> To:
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
>
> Okay, here's my weekly
question:
>
> I think I have warped rotors, but there is something
strange that doesn't
> make sense to me. When I brake, sometimes the
steering wheel shakes
> really
> bad, and other times it hardly
shakes at all. If the rotors were warped,
> wouldn't the amount of
shaking be the same everytime I hit the brake?
> Should I suspect
something else is wrong?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> 92 R/T
TT
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 09:22:12
-0400
From:
ukyo@avana.netSubject:
Team3S: Spark Plug Gap
All,
I have been reading about some of you
guys gaping your
plugs lower. Would my NA car benefit from a smaller
gap in the plugs, or is this something that is better
suited for the
turbo variation?
Hopefully I'll be running platninum plugs and high
qaulity wires in my car after this weekend to
compliment my fresh
synthetic oil. :)
TIA!
- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base +
K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 15:38:40
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spark Plug Gap
No, the spark plug gap is only of benefit if
the pressure in the chamber is
altered. Nothing for NA cars.
Replace
plugs and wires at 60k or if damaged. They also have nothing to do
with the
oil at all.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch>I have been reading about
some of you guys gaping your
>plugs lower. Would my NA car benefit
from a smaller
>gap in the plugs, or is this something that is
better
>suited for the turbo variation?
>
>Hopefully I'll be
running platninum plugs and high
>qaulity wires in my car after this
weekend to
>compliment my fresh synthetic oil.
:)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 09:02:20
EST
From: "Rick H." <
tt_3kgt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Midwest Team3s Club
Everyone,
Sorry if this
is a off-posting to this list but this seems to be the best
way to get ahold
of a vast amount of owners.
I am attempting to start a new
chapter in the midwest for 3000GT and
Stealth owners. This should be
starting within the next few weeks (when the
website is up and available). I
have already spoke with numerous owners
within the Indiana area that are
interested in joining.
If you are interested in joining this
organization please email me at
HunterVr4@aol.com. I will no longer be
using this email address of
TT_3KGT@hotmail.com over the next couple
of weeks. Please email me at
HunterVr4@aol.com with your car information,
modifications made, and
anything else that you would like to have posted on
the webpage. I should
have the site up and available within the next few
weeks like I said
depending on my schedule. Also include with that your
contact information
(address, phone, etc) so that we can get in contact when
events arise.
That should be it for now! Hope to hear
from everyone soon and please
feel free to email me with any questions!
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rick
Hawley
1993 3000GT VR-4
HunterVr4@aol.com
Greenwood, Indiana
3s - Midwest
Chapter
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***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 10:25:47
EDT
From:
GREEN3000GTO@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
The motor has a miss
Hello,
I have another question. My 94 3000gt sl
has been setting for about 1 year
because it is wreck. I have been starting
the car up about 1 a week to let
run . Well the car is now missing it is
only hitting on 5 cylinder. The last
time I started the car up it ran fine
and the other day I started it up and
it is missing. when the car is
running and I pull the plug wire of the coil
and slowly make connection it
dose not try to pick up at all. It is
completely dead. Now here is my
question. The car has 87000 miles and the
plug and plugwire has never been
replace. Do anyone think it more likely the
plug or plugwire or do you think
that a lifter could be stuck? Where is the
best place to buy the plugs and
plugswire.
Thank you
Robert Burns.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 10:50:40
-0400
From: "Steve Sullivan" <
Sully@carolina.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Location of oil pressure guage connection
After doing my 60k
service I notice that my oil pressure guage reads
nothing. I am
guessing that I must have disconnected the electrical
connection to it
somehow since when I look in the oil filler cap I can see a
good flow of oil.
Anyone know where the connections for the guage are?
Thanks in
advance.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 11:21:22
EDT
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Location of oil pressure guage connection
It should be right
under the engine below the timing belt cover, and behind
the crank pulleys.
Just for kicks I know someone who replaced the engine
because he had no oil
pressure, but it was a loose connection just like
yours. A broken accesory
belt had gotten tangled and removed the connection.
DOH !!! But hey he got a
new engine out of the deal. HEHE
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 10:43:39
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
Yeah, we replaced all the items
listed. It is relatively easy and
inexpensive to pull the rotors and
have them turned. That eliminates one
possible cause. Pull all
four if you want. The frustrating thing is that
it is usually triggered
by braking, but you might notice it slightly as you
accellerate through a
given speed, like 75 mph, you might also feel it on
turning where you hold a
steering input and the car strains against it.
Everything we did, turning
rotors, replacing pads, replacing hubs and
bearings (front and rear),
meticulously balancing wheels, made it better,
but didn't eliminate it.
It was also less severe with track wheels and
tires than for stock (heavy)
wheels and tires. We switched tires and wheels
from one VR4 to another
without effect. I think there is a front CV joint
that was once
mentioned as a potential source of the problem. The car was
worked on
by three different dealerships in two states without resolving it.
I
would dearly love to know how to fix it!
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
DKoenigs@aol.com [
SMTP:DKoenigs@aol.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, October 25, 2000 10:11 AM
> To:
cewillis@texaschildrenshospital.org;
shmacker@home.com;
>
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
>
> I assume that you
are sure "what it isn't" because you have replaced these
>
> items
listed.
>
> The condition described still sounds like warped rotors
to me. Why not a
> constant vibration? It depends on the
location of the warp of both rotors
>
> when the brakes are
applied. If "in sync" the vibration is severe as both
>
>
wheels are affected. If "out of sync" the two can actually cancel
each
> other
> out and the vibration is much less severe to hardly
noticeable. For
> example
> if the right rotor warp is in a
position that would cause the caliper to
> travel outboard (or to the
right) at the same time the left rotor warp is
> in
> a position to
pull the left caliper outbaound (or to the left) the result
> is
>
a nearly neutral vibration.
>
> Also mentioned in one of the
responses is that a condition in the rear of
> the
> car does not
usually present itself in the steering wheel. That is true
> most
> of the time, HOWEVER it can and somtimes does. Bottom line here
is don't
> overlook the rear as a source of your vibration.
>
> Don
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 12:24:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stealth wheel & brake question...
Hi All,
Now, I know
the 1st gen VR4 wheels will not fit with
'94+ bigger rotors..
What
about the 1st gen Stealth TT wheels?? Anyone
know??
(Want to buy a
spare set of rims for
racing...)
Thanks,
George
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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http://im.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 15:29:10
EDT
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
off topic: stealth vs. tree
Man this had to hurt.
http://corvetteforum.com/ubb/Forum42/HTML/003963.html<
http://corvetteforum.com/ubb/Forum42/HTML/003963.html>
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 15:51:49
EDT
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Ground control
I am interested in using ground control what problems will
I run into? How
will I compensate for camber front and rear? Has anyone here
on the list used
them? What are the best adjustable shocks to be used with
the system?
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 15:14:21
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ground control
At 03:51 PM 10/25/00 EDT,
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.com wrote:
>I am
interested in using ground control what problems will I run into? How
>will I compensate for camber front and rear? Has anyone here on the
list
used
>them? What are the best adjustable shocks to be used with
the system?
>
None.
In the front, you can align it within
factory specs. Perfect for street
use. There is no negative camber to spare,
if you are thinking about racing.
In the rear, if you adjust it all the
way down, you will have 1.5 deg
negative camber, perfect for racing. To
adjust this out, you will have to
drill out the upper locating arm mounting
hole, elongating it about a
half-inch. This will allow you to "pull" the top
of the wheel back in for
zero camber.
Shocks? Now that's a good
question, since there are none available. Can't
buy Gabs anymore I hear. If
you find out, let us know. I'm still on my
stock struts.
Rich/old
poop/04 VR4
Ground Control adjustable suspension w/Eibach springs and camber
plates.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 15:41:15
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ground control
My son and I run them on our '93 VR4's.
We don't use camber adjustment
plates. We run the cars at 1/4 inch
lower than stock on the street and 3/4
inch lower at the track. We use
the stock Mitsubishi electronically
adjustable shocks, so we still have
ECS. I am about to transplant mine to
my '94 VR4. We had some
initial problems because Ground Control sent the
wrong height rear shocks,
but they corrected it immediately when we called
it to their attention.
Make sure you have a spring compressor you can use.
When you remove the
shocks, you need to be careful to maintain the
orientation of the shaft with
the cylinder, otherwise you will lose ECS
until you restore the proper
orientation. There were some parts that the
instruction said to remove,
but we found had to remain in place, notably the
upper spring mount on the
front shocks - it shouldn't matter but it does.
Make sure the hole in the
upper and lower spring mounts line up. I've got
about 15 track events
on mine without any problem. I recommend a four wheel
alignment after
installation - they won't be able to bring it into spec, but
they can even it
out on both sides. Wear on our street and track tires is
even, of
course the outside edge of the track tires wears somewhat more, so
eventually
we'll have to remount them in opposite orientation to get
complete
wear. We found that the understeer is reduced tremendously
from
lowering, as is the body roll, rearing and diving because of the
stiffer
springs. I don't know what spring rate we got, just whatever
ground control
picked. There might be a group purchase going on out
there. Others might
be more particular about the specific Eibach
springs to use. Others have
mentioned manually adjustable shocks,
too. I am very happy with this setup,
but they are a little less
comfortable for my wife riding in the
passenger
side.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.com [
SMTP:COMETOTHEZOO@aol.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 2:52 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Ground control
>
> I am interested in using ground
control what problems will I run into? How
>
> will I compensate
for camber front and rear? Has anyone here on the list
> used
>
them? What are the best adjustable shocks to be used with the system?
>
> 94 3000 VR4
>
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/>
Mike Murray
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:22:42
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
My rotors were warped but only vibrated
the steering wheel (shimmy) when
braking from above 60 mph. Anything
below, say, 40 mph didn't do anything.
Have them checked or check them
yourself and have them turned if there is
enough material left. I can
send the numbers to anyone who needs them for
minimum thickness.
Checking them is free usually at a brake shop and
turning is relatively
inexpensive and should get rid of most shimmy effects.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark
plug plate
... and soon to have AutoX tires from the 2000 Solo II National
Champ (big
grin)
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [
mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent:
Wednesday, October 25, 2000 11:44 AM
To:
'DKoenigs@aol.com'; Willis, Charles E.;
shmacker@home.com;
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
Yeah, we replaced all the items
listed. It is relatively easy and
inexpensive to pull the rotors and
have them turned. That eliminates one
possible cause. Pull all
four if you want. The frustrating thing is that
it is usually triggered
by braking, but you might notice it slightly as you
accellerate through a
given speed, like 75 mph, you might also feel it on
turning where you hold a
steering input and the car strains against it.
Everything we did, turning
rotors, replacing pads, replacing hubs and
bearings (front and rear),
meticulously balancing wheels, made it better,
but didn't eliminate it.
It was also less severe with track wheels and
tires than for stock (heavy)
wheels and tires. We switched tires and wheels
from one VR4 to another
without effect. I think there is a front CV joint
that was once
mentioned as a potential source of the problem. The car was
worked on
by three different dealerships in two states without resolving it.
I
would dearly love to know how to fix it!
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
DKoenigs@aol.com [
SMTP:DKoenigs@aol.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, October 25, 2000 10:11 AM
> To:
cewillis@texaschildrenshospital.org;
shmacker@home.com;
>
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
>
> I assume that you
are sure "what it isn't" because you have replaced these
>
> items
listed.
>
> The condition described still sounds like warped rotors
to me. Why not a
> constant vibration? It depends on the
location of the warp of both rotors
>
> when the brakes are
applied. If "in sync" the vibration is severe as both
>
>
wheels are affected. If "out of sync" the two can actually cancel
each
> other
> out and the vibration is much less severe to hardly
noticeable. For
> example
> if the right rotor warp is in a
position that would cause the caliper to
> travel outboard (or to the
right) at the same time the left rotor warp is
> in
> a position to
pull the left caliper outbaound (or to the left) the result
> is
>
a nearly neutral vibration.
>
> Also mentioned in one of the
responses is that a condition in the rear of
> the
> car does not
usually present itself in the steering wheel. That is true
> most
> of the time, HOWEVER it can and somtimes does. Bottom line here
is don't
> overlook the rear as a source of your vibration.
>
> Don
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 15:50:51
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
The minimum thickness should be stamped
into the rotor somewhere on a
non-wearing surface. It might be kinda
dirty, so you may need bake cleaner
to find it/read it.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Schilberg, Darren [
SMTP:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 3:23 PM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.';
'DKoenigs@aol.com';
shmacker@home.com;
>
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
>
> My rotors were
warped but only vibrated the steering wheel (shimmy) when
> braking from
above 60 mph. Anything below, say, 40 mph didn't do
>
anything.
>
> Have them checked or check them yourself and have
them turned if there is
> enough material left. I can send the
numbers to anyone who needs them for
> minimum thickness. Checking
them is free usually at a brake shop and
> turning is relatively
inexpensive and should get rid of most shimmy
> effects.
>
>
--Flash!
>
dschilberg@freemarkets.com>
> 3Si #577
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and
a custom spark plug
> plate
> ... and soon to have AutoX tires from
the 2000 Solo II National Champ (big
> grin)
>
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [
mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 11:44 AM
> To:
'DKoenigs@aol.com'; Willis, Charles E.;
shmacker@home.com;
>
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
>
> Yeah, we replaced
all the items listed. It is relatively easy and
> inexpensive to
pull the rotors and have them turned. That eliminates one
> possible
cause. Pull all four if you want. The frustrating thing is
that
> it is usually triggered by braking, but you might notice it
slightly as
> you
> accellerate through a given speed, like 75 mph,
you might also feel it on
> turning where you hold a steering input and
the car strains against it.
> Everything we did, turning rotors, replacing
pads, replacing hubs and
> bearings (front and rear), meticulously
balancing wheels, made it better,
> but didn't eliminate it. It was
also less severe with track wheels and
> tires than for stock (heavy)
wheels and tires. We switched tires and
> wheels
> from one
VR4 to another without effect. I think there is a front CV joint
>
that was once mentioned as a potential source of the problem. The car
was
> worked on by three different dealerships in two states without
resolving
> it.
>
> I would dearly love to know how to fix
it!
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
DKoenigs@aol.com [
SMTP:DKoenigs@aol.com]
> >
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 10:11 AM
> > To:
cewillis@texaschildrenshospital.org;
shmacker@home.com;
> >
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
> >
> > I
assume that you are sure "what it isn't" because you have replaced
>
these
> >
> > items listed.
> >
> > The
condition described still sounds like warped rotors to me. Why not
>
a
> > constant vibration? It depends on the location of the warp
of both
> rotors
> >
> > when the brakes are
applied. If "in sync" the vibration is severe as
> both
> >
> > wheels are affected. If "out of sync" the two can actually
cancel each
> > other
> > out and the vibration is much less
severe to hardly noticeable. For
> > example
> > if the
right rotor warp is in a position that would cause the caliper to
>
> > travel outboard (or to the right) at the same time the left rotor
warp
> is
> > in
> > a position to pull the left
caliper outbaound (or to the left) the
> result
> > is
>
> a nearly neutral vibration.
> >
> > Also mentioned in
one of the responses is that a condition in the rear
> of
> > the
> > car does not usually present itself in the steering wheel.
That is true
> > most
> > of the time, HOWEVER it can and
somtimes does. Bottom line here is
> don't
> > overlook
the rear as a source of your vibration.
> >
> > Don
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:52:20
EDT
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Ground control
In a message dated 10/25/00 1:18:05 PM Pacific
Daylight Time,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
writes:
> Ground Control adjustable suspension w/Eibach springs and
camber plates.
Rich,
How did you incorporate camber plates?
94 3000
VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:15:49
EDT
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
The motor has a miss
Before you go replacing anything - look at
the plugs. Are they cracked?
Do you see a trail of carbon that
could conduct the current around the
electrodes. Get an Ohm meter and
check the plug wire itself. It should read
several thousand
ohms. See if it matches the resistance of the other plug
wires.
To check for cracks in the plug wire, get a little ground cable, or
even
just a piece of wire, and ground one side. Run the other side along the
wire. If its cracked - youll see a spark.
Joe
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:23:22
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
I had the same problem. The toe was
out really bad in the alignment. It
only did the wheel shimmy when the
car was braked hard. I replaced the
rotors and still had the
problem--then did an alignment and it went away!
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
'Chris Maxwell' <
shmacker@home.com>;
stealth@stls.verio.net<
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, October 25, 2000 11:48 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor
Question
>Could be an unbalanced wheel, but that's usually
reproducible. Could be a
>bent front axle (problems in the rear
rarely transmit to the steering
>wheel). Could be bad front wheel
bearings. Isn't there a steering rack
>that can get worn? If
you figure it out, post it. My son's '93 has the
>same problem and
it's not rotors, pads, wheels,tires, or wheel bearings.
>How many miles on
your car?
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Chris
Maxwell [
SMTP:shmacker@home.com]
>>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 12:14 AM
>> To:
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>>
Subject: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
>>
>> Okay, here's my
weekly question:
>>
>> I think I have warped rotors, but there
is something strange that doesn't
>> make sense to me. When I
brake, sometimes the steering wheel shakes
>> really
>> bad,
and other times it hardly shakes at all. If the rotors were
warped,
>> wouldn't the amount of shaking be the same everytime I hit
the brake?
>> Should I suspect something else is
wrong?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Chris
>> 92 R/T
TT
>>
>>
>> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
>*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:05:13
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
Ours shimmy has survived multiple four
wheel alignments, but still only on
one of our cars.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Shelat [
SMTP:sshelat@erols.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, October 25, 2000 12:23 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; 'Chris
Maxwell';
stealth@stls.verio.net;
>
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
>
> I had the same
problem. The toe was out really bad in the alignment. It
>
only did the wheel shimmy when the car was braked hard. I replaced
the
> rotors and still had the problem--then did an alignment and it went
away!
>
> Sam
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
To: 'Chris Maxwell' <
shmacker@home.com>;
stealth@stls.verio.net> <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 11:48 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Warped
Rotor Question
>
>
> >Could be an unbalanced wheel, but
that's usually reproducible. Could be
> a
> >bent front
axle (problems in the rear rarely transmit to the steering
>
>wheel). Could be bad front wheel bearings. Isn't there a
steering rack
> >that can get worn? If you figure it out, post
it. My son's '93 has the
> >same problem and it's not rotors,
pads, wheels,tires, or wheel bearings.
> >How many miles on your
car?
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >>
From: Chris Maxwell [
SMTP:shmacker@home.com]
>
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 12:14 AM
> >> To:
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>> Subject: Team3S: Warped Rotor Question
> >>
>
>> Okay, here's my weekly question:
> >>
> >> I
think I have warped rotors, but there is something strange that
>
doesn't
> >> make sense to me. When I brake, sometimes the
steering wheel shakes
> >> really
> >> bad, and other
times it hardly shakes at all. If the rotors were
> warped,
>
>> wouldn't the amount of shaking be the same everytime I hit the
brake?
> >> Should I suspect something else is wrong?
>
>>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Chris
> >> 92 R/T
TT
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
> >
> >*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:51:38
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ground control
>Rich,
>How did you incorporate
camber plates?
>
They only work with the Ground Control adjustable
suspension.
First, put the car on a rack or lift it up off the
ground.
Unscrew the top of the strut from inside (three bolts at the top) and
drop
the strut down a little -- just enough to remove the top spring mount.
If
you have the GC kit, you don't need a spring compressor because the
spring
is not clamped down.
Second, carefully measure and then drill
two or three mounting holes at the
top of the ...what do you call it? The big
hump in the inner fender where
the strut comes through. The camber plates
simply will not align to the
existing three holes, so you gotta drill one or
two more holes. Install the
camber plates using the new mounting holes.
Stick the top of the strut up though the camber plate, bolt it down,
and
take it over to the alignment rack. Set it for maximum castor, +0.15
in.
positive toe, and as much negative camber as you like (I am running -3
deg,
but it will go to -5 easy).
Caution: Removing the top spring
mount takes out about four inches of
spacer, so the car will drop right down
to the ground (literally!!). So,
first adjust the GC collar to get back the
four inches you just lost, or it
will be so low you may not be able to get it
onto the alignment rack (been
there, done that).
(Actually, it is
unbelievably cool to see the car down on the ground like
that, so maybe you
might want to take a picture of it like that. Just be
sure you have some way
of getting a jack under it so you can raise it back
up to adjust the GC
collar. )
The top of the strut sticks up a little higher through the
camber plate
than I'd like, and I had to measure a few times to be sure the
hood wasn't
going to crush the electrical connector at the top of the strut.
It clears
by about a c... uh, cat hair.
The whole thing is a piece of
cake. I had my local muffler and brake shop
do it and it only took about 2-3
hours for the camber plates and alignment,
or about $120 in labor. You can do
it yourself easy.
The biggest problem is in figuring out which way the
camber plates go,
which way is up, and so on. As is typical of most
modifications, the
instructions are abysmal and written in some language that
only barely
resembles English.
Rich/old poop
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 18:22:33
EDT
From:
GREEN3000GTO@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
bumber
Hello does anyone know where I can find the new VIS 94+ front
combat bumber
or the web address where they sell them.
Thank
you.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 17:42:35
CDT
From: "Dan Erick (3SI #889)" <
ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV and Misfiring!
Hmm, how do I check for a vacuum leak?
People have told me to do that to
remedy several of my problems and I've
visually inspected all of them as
best I can. What else should I
try?
Dan
>From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
>To: "Dan Erick
(3SI #889)" <
ttstealth@hotmail.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV and Misfiring!
>Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 08:09:15
-0700
>
>Dan
>
>The Bov sound only lasts for a second
----- you might be hearing a
>vacuum leak. Check your hoses, that might
also account for the
>misfire although a bad leak could cause multiple
problems.
>
> Jim
Berry
>==============================================
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 19:12:33
EDT
From:
Peles3kgt@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Eastern NC Shops?
Hey does anyone out there know of a reputable repair
shop in the eastern NC
area? Greenville, Jacksonville, or Raleigh
would be preferred. I'm having
problems with my '94 VR-4 and need
someone (other than the dealership, if
possible) to check it out.
Also, does anyone have the # for Tallahassee
Mitsubishi?
Thanks,
Dave
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 21:47:29
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
4-wheel lockup warning?
Hello all,
I was driving my TT today and
the back end broke loose on a left turn
accel. Immediately following,
there started this hard hard shuddering
whenever I try to accel. Any
ideas??
Ken
'91
TT
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 20:58:56
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 4-wheel lockup warning?
>I was driving my TT today and the
back end broke loose on a left turn
>accel. Immediately following,
there started this hard hard shuddering
>whenever I try to accel.
Any ideas??
>
Ken: You definitely broke something. Don't drive it any
more than you have
to. Put it up in the air and take a look underneath. I'd
start by looking
at all four half shafts, then the rear driveshaft. Turn the
wheels by hand
and listen for crunching and grinding noises. If you can
isolate it down to
something like a broken halfshaft or differential, you may
be able to
replace it yourself with new or used parts. I hope it's not the
transfer
case or tranny.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 22:18:05
EDT
From:
BHurvitz@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: stabilizer bars
Does any one out there known the diameter of our
front and rear stabilzer
bars. I was thinking of upgrading to the Addco, but
I am not to sure of the
gain that I would obtain. Interested in some feed
back.
Thanks
Bob 91TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#305
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