team3s            Monday, October 23 2000            Volume 01 : Number 303




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 09:03:35 -0400
From: ukyo@avana.net
Subject: Team3S: Launch technique

Hi guys!

I just found a drag strip about 10 miles from where I
work that gives $10 all night runs on Friday nights.  I
am thinking about taking my monsterous ~161hp SOHC
base '97 3000GT to it and give it a few runs for kicks.
What I don't know is the best method to launch an
automatic transmission.  I know, I know...  Automatic
3000GT, blasphemy!  But, it's all I have to work with
until I bring a VR4 home.  :)

Any advice on launching an automatic?  I'd like to do
as little damage as possible to the transmission while
still leaping off the line as quick as I can.

I'm supposed to have a run against a '94 Camaro Z28
which is also an automatic.  I fully expect to get
spanked, but hey... it's just for fun.  :)

Thanks in advance.  I look forword to the replies...

- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle / Red)


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 06:37:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Vacumm Hose

There are a variety of ID sizes used. It is probably best to measure
the ID of the specific hose you want to replace, both in inches and
millimeters, then shop around. You also have an option as to wall
thickness. The Links Page at my web site lists several sources for
hoses plus you can check at shops like Extreme Motorsports. By
removing the battery and washer tank/tray (see my Garage Page if you
want some tips) and the MAS/air filter, you have easy access to
nearly all vacuum/pressure hoses. You may be able to shorten some of
the turbo-related hoses to shorten response time to boost solenoids
and wastegates. I think other-than-black hoses are a nice way to
personalize and dress-up the engine bay.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
  --> http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick H." <tt_3kgt@hotmail.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 6:58 AM
Subject: Team3S: Vacumm Hose

I have a a question about vacumm hose. I was out on
hosetechniques.com and was going to place a order when I realized
that i didn't know the size that I was going to need. I know that
there is bound to be someone else out there that has redone there
engine bay in silicone and knows about how much and what sizes are
needed to do the job. If anyone could provide me with this
information it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Rick-
93 3KGT VR-4

__________________________________________________
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 09:50:22 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Vacumm Hose

Hose Techniques has a kit with all of the sizes you need for a 3S.

Dan Mecier
94 3000GT VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Rick H.
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:59 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Vacumm Hose


I have a a question about vacumm hose. I was out on hosetechniques.com and
was going to place a order when I realized that i didn't know the size that
I was going to need. I know that there is bound to be someone else out there
that has redone there engine bay in silicone and knows about how much and
what sizes are needed to do the job. If anyone could provide me with this
information it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Rick-
93 3KGT VR-4
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 12:07:15 EST
From: "Rick H." <tt_3kgt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tap Tap Tap Tap

Hello Everyone!

     I am having a problem that is quite disturbing. I have had my car what
is going on three months and have not had any problems out of it yet. I have
pretty much parked it for the winter and have not driven it a whole lot in
the past couple of weeks. Although the car has not been driven it has been
started and let warm up from time to time. I noticed last night that when I
started it there was a tapping noise from under the hood. It is constant. No
delays just a consistent TAP! :)

     Well I pulled the car out and went for a ride and there is no
difference in the power. The car is boosting and running at peek
performance, but yet when I got out of the car and popped the hood with the
engine still running there is a TAPPING NOISE!

      I checked out the archive pages on this and I found quite a few things
but nothing that was really solid of a lead to the problem. The sound is
coming from the middle of the motor on the top. I am not really mechanically
inclined but it is behind the front plate and in front of the rear plate
(pendelum)? It is right in front of what looks to be the fuel rails... I
don't know how to explain it. Please helP!

Rick -
93 3KGT VR4


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 12:14:13 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tap Tap Tap Tap

>       I checked out the archive pages on this and I found
> quite a few things but nothing that was really solid of a
> lead to the problem.  The sound is coming from the middle
> of the motor on the top.

Classic case of lifter tick.  Review the archives again, looking for that as
the subject.  Basically in your case it is probably from the car sitting.
If you rev it up to 3,000 RPM the ticking noise should stop.  What oil are
you using?  Most people have luck with the Mitsubishi oil filter and Mobil
One synthetic 10W30 oil.

If that doesn't work, try running a very light oil (0w30?) for about 500
miles and then change back to the 10w30 oil.  The lighter oil will flow
quicker at startup and push some of the gunk out of the lifters.  That
solved it in my car.  The problem stems from either air bubbles or grit
making its way into the lifters and blocking the inlet port on the lifter so
they can't get fully pressurized by oil, causing them to tap against the
valve rocker.  In extreme cases the lifters can be replaced to solve the
problem.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 13:21:25 EDT
From: Zeoswolf@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tap Tap Tap Tap

rick,
   Welcome to the wonderful world of lash adjusters and lifters.  That is
your problem and there really is no cure.  It does not hurt the engine to
have it tick but I would say give your car an oil change and use synthetic
oil if you are not already.  But remember, if you are over like 60 or 70k
miles, synthetic wont be benefitial.  Almost everyone's 3/S I've heard does
this at some point or another, even mine.  Mine will do it irregularily...
sometimes when I start the car, there it is... TICK TICK TICK TICK!!  I let
it sit for a bit and it goes away on its own.  Sometime i rev the engine and
it goes away.  Sometimes its not there at all.  Sometimes it will even tick
when i get REALLY low on gas and when I fill it up, it quiets down.  Its just
a design flaw on Mitsu's part... just treat it but keeping fresh oil in your
car and ENOUGH oil in your car and she will run just fine.  Don't worry about
it!

james
94R/T

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 12:45:44 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Please help with clutch advice.

The shifting symptoms you describe sound terribly familiar for people with
the first generation 5 speed Getrag transaxle.  How many miles on your car.

I had some intermittent shifting problems with my '93 VR4 that the dealer
first couldn't reproduce and then later said required replacement of the
transaxle.  I replaced the clutch booster, although the dealer said they had
NEVER had to replace one.  As someone else said about replacing the clutch
master cylinder, it is a real bad in the rear.  I don't believe my old
booster unit was bad - I did the same tests you mentioned in the service
manual, and mine failed one before and AFTER replacement.  What I did
discover (duh?) was that the clutch booster and likewise brake booster,
depend on a lot of plumbing - rubber hoses that age and leak.  Replacing
these hoses, especially with cars of our vintage, is cheap and worthwhile.

I also noticed that the shift linkages at the transaxle sit under the y-pipe
and a lot of other plumbing and hoses that if misplaced can interfere with
their motion.

I also drained and refilled my transaxle and transfer case - the redline
fluid was two years and 12 track events old.

Miracle of miracle - the shifting problem disappeared.  I must have
sacrificed to the Getrag god!

Chuck
'93VR4 and '94 VR4
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Gonzales [SMTP:greggonzo1@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 8:37 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Please help with clutch advice.
>
> Last week after I took my car in to get the tires rotated and balanced
> after
> they were done my shifting started acting strange.
> I saw the tech drive the car in and out and didnt notice him doing
> anything
> to my car.
> I have been driving it and noticed that my clutch was getting a bit lower
> and the shifting from 1st to 2nd is very notchy, I could shift but would
> have to wait for the motor to wind down and then it would go in. Sometimes
>
> there is a thud. and 2nd to 3rd is notchy as well. 3rd to 4 goes ok but
> sometimes sticks 4-5 goes fine. I decided to look at the clutch adjustment
>
> and saw that there was a small bit of fluid on the clutch booster. I wiped
>
> it two days ago and havent seen any new fluid. I checked the clutch fluid
> level and it is still full.
> So.....
> Ive held off on the master cylinder replacement on my 92 RT TT. since I
> didnt know if that is the problem.
> I went through a couple of the tests in the manual to test to clutch
> booster(where I first spotted fluid). And it seemed to be ok so I dont
> think
> it is the booster. I also regained some of my clutch since I was required
> to
> pump it a few times.
> This is where I am at.
> Advice????
> Thanks
> Greg G
> 92 RT TT
> _________________________________________________________________________
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 13:15:44 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap

James,

Can you tell me where you get your information on synthetic oil not being
beneficial if your engine has or 60-70K miles on it?  I have never heard
this, and was curious.  Don't want to be throwing good money away at my car
with 80k miles.

Thanks,

Kevin Schappell

Learn more about your car
http://www.AutoEducation.com

Online Mobile Audio SuperStore
http://mobilesounds.vstorecar.com

3SI members.... you have to see this page
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead/mitsu2.htm


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Zeoswolf@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 1:21 PM
> To: tt_3kgt@hotmail.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Tap Tap Tap Tap
>
>
>   But remember, if you are over
> like 60 or 70k
> miles, synthetic wont be benefitial.
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 10:42:32 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Launch technique

- ---------------snip-------------
> What I don't know is the best method to launch an
> automatic transmission.  I know, I know...  Automatic
> 3000GT, blasphemy!  But, it's all I have to work with
> until I bring a VR4 home.  :)
> Any advice on launching an automatic?  I'd like to do
> as little damage as possible to the transmission while
> still leaping off the line as quick as I can.

Any "launch" worthy of the name will be stressful to one component or
another.  But here are the two most widely used techniques for launching
with an automatic:
1.  The one that's usually most effective (and the most potentially
damaging) requires practice in judging your timing--  In neutral, rev the
engine in a rhythm (think "4-4-4-4-3-2-1" and say it out loud) to ~3k then
~5k at the same time as you pull the stick into "Drive" and floor the
accelerator.  It helps to practice this with a friend who is simulating the
staging lights with a flag or something (Noon=Red, 2 o'clock=Orange, 4
o'clock=Yellow, 6 o'clock=Green, e.g.).  Learn to yank the stick at yellow
so that by the time the linkage connects the tranny to the engine, the light
is JUST "Green" -- not before, and not after, of course.  Some modern
transmissions have delay circuits built in to minimize damage when engaging
a gear from other than idle, so you must practice -- I've never used a 3S
automatic, so you'll have to judge for yourself if your tranny does this.
If it has a delay circuit, it might go into gear quicker from a 3k rev than
from a 5k.  Practice.  A lot.  BTW...  Keep your foot on the brake lightly
until just a second or so before launch, to make sure that the car's slight
rocking motion while revving doesn't let you creep over the line...
2.  This method is a bit less stressful and probably a bit less effective,
but at least gets your engine into the power band where it can do the most
good...  Just keep your foot on the brake while in gear, and floor it
between orange and yellow, or just as it hits yellow.  Determine your
reaction time in practice to see how long it takes you for the car to move
as you take your foot off the brake.  The brakes should hold you right up to
5k or so.  Just AT the green, you'll already be in that band of greatest HP
and torque, approx 4500 to 5500.  This will launch you a lot quicker than
from standing idle and you won't fault over the start line...

As you said, even a white bread Z28, with about 70 or so more HP than you,
should beat you handily.  But if you have a great launch and he/she has a
lousy one, you've got a real shot.  It CAN be done.  I'm thinking back to
the time that Rich Leroy (in his '94 RT with only FIPK and exhaust) just
edged Chris Winkley (modded '95 VR-4) in their drag at Portland
International.  The reason?  Rich had, in his words, "an HELL-ay-shuss
launch"!

It CAN happen.  Kick ass!!!

Best,

Forrest





***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 12:45:29 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap

> Can you tell me where you get your information on
> synthetic oil not being beneficial if your engine has
> or 60-70K miles on it?  I have never heard this, and
> was curious.  Don't want to be throwing good money
> away at my car with 80k miles.

I've never heard that either.  Synthetic oil provides more wear protection
for components than dinosaur oil, regardless of how many miles are on the
parts.  Stick with the synthetic if you want your car to last longer with
less wear.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 13:58:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Help! Tire question

Hi, I recently took in my car for a check engine problem and to get my
tires rotated. Upon getting it back, the car seemed to drive slower and
there has been a sort of whirring noise.

My uneducated, based-on-nothing guess was that maybe one of the tires was
rubbing against something, but I am not sure how I can confirm this. All 4
tires I have on the car are of the same type. Also, for the last few
fill-ups my mileage has been about 17 mpg for combo of city/highway
driving.

Thanks

Michael 97 VR4

PS the dealership I went to was in San Jose, CA


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 14:11:10 EDT
From: Merlin916@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tap Tap Tap Tap

Rick, 

     Have you tried chaning to a lighter weight oil.  I use 5-30 in the 
winter.  I also use an oil from Shell called Rotella.  Its an oil designed
for desiel engines.  It has all the additives in a synthetic like say Mobil1,
plus a few others.  It was reccomended to me by a chemical engineer from
texaco who uses it in all of his cars.  Seems to be working pretty damn well.

Joe

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 11:10:04 -0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! Tire question

Mike,
As a San Jose resident with 2 VR4s, I can say that 17 mpg is what you'll get
unless you only use you car on long trips.  Whirring might be the turbos
spooling up.  Does it happen if you stay off the boost?

Jim 91 VR4, 95 Spyder VR4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Baldwin [mailto:mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu]
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 10:59 AM
To: team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Help! Tire question


Hi, I recently took in my car for a check engine problem and to get my
tires rotated. Upon getting it back, the car seemed to drive slower and
there has been a sort of whirring noise.

My uneducated, based-on-nothing guess was that maybe one of the tires was
rubbing against something, but I am not sure how I can confirm this. All 4
tires I have on the car are of the same type. Also, for the last few
fill-ups my mileage has been about 17 mpg for combo of city/highway
driving.

Thanks

Michael 97 VR4

PS the dealership I went to was in San Jose, CA


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 14:15:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! Tire question

I actually notice the whirring most when I let go of the gas and am
coasting (less engine noise so I can hear everything else). I am assuming
tires rubbing would give me lower gas mileage.

PS Have you done any mods to your cars?

On Mon, 23 Oct 2000, Watkins, Jim wrote:

> Mike,
> As a San Jose resident with 2 VR4s, I can say that 17 mpg is what you'll get
> unless you only use you car on long trips.  Whirring might be the turbos
> spooling up.  Does it happen if you stay off the boost?
>
> Jim 91 VR4, 95 Spyder VR4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Baldwin [mailto:mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu]
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 10:59 AM
> To: team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Help! Tire question
>
>
> Hi, I recently took in my car for a check engine problem and to get my
> tires rotated. Upon getting it back, the car seemed to drive slower and
> there has been a sort of whirring noise.
>
> My uneducated, based-on-nothing guess was that maybe one of the tires was
> rubbing against something, but I am not sure how I can confirm this. All 4
> tires I have on the car are of the same type. Also, for the last few
> fill-ups my mileage has been about 17 mpg for combo of city/highway
> driving.
>
> Thanks
>
> Michael 97 VR4
>
> PS the dealership I went to was in San Jose, CA
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 14:30:17 EDT
From: Zeoswolf@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap

In a message dated 10/23/00 1:32:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kevin@pacarsearch.com writes:

<<  Can you tell me where you get your information on synthetic oil not being
 beneficial if your engine has or 60-70K miles on it?  I have never heard
 this, and was curious.  Don't want to be throwing good money away at my car
 with 80k miles. >>
 
  i was talking about CHANGING over to synthetic that late in an engines
life.  not if you are already using it.  once you get around 60-70-80k miles,
any damage that could have been prevented by synthetic oil has already been
done.. so its really kinda useless to spend the extra money on it when you
dont really need to.  that is all i meant.

james
94R/T

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 11:32:25 -0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap

Why doesn't someone explain the transition process. I'm assuming for the
first few times you'd want to do an oil change more regularly until all the
regular oil was out and the synthetic has properly bonded?

- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Zeoswolf@aol.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap


> In a message dated 10/23/00 1:32:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> kevin@pacarsearch.com writes:
>
> <<  Can you tell me where you get your information on synthetic oil not
being
>  beneficial if your engine has or 60-70K miles on it?  I have never heard
>  this, and was curious.  Don't want to be throwing good money away at my
car
>  with 80k miles. >>
>
>   i was talking about CHANGING over to synthetic that late in an engines
> life.  not if you are already using it.  once you get around 60-70-80k
miles,
> any damage that could have been prevented by synthetic oil has already
been
> done.. so its really kinda useless to spend the extra money on it when you
> dont really need to.  that is all i meant.
>
> james
> 94R/T
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 14:01:12 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap

Isn't that kinda like saying, if you smoked cigarettes for 10 years there's
no reason to quit now, because of the damage you've already done?

My understanding is that as oil gets older, it gets more acidic and also
degrades and loses viscosity, so it isn't lubricating anymore and is
becoming more corrosive.  Synthetic oils are more stable than dinosaur oil,
they last longer at normal and higher temperatures.   I don't see how that
isn't a good thing for an older engine that is approaching the tail end of
the "bathtub curve for reliability".  An engine is subject to wear
throughout it's lifetime.

If you don't subject your engine to extremes, normal or reclaimed oil is
just fine, assuming you change it every 3K miles or less.  Spending a little
more on oil is a lot cheaper than replacing an engine earlier than
necessary.

Chuck
Mobile One VR4's

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zeoswolf@aol.com [SMTP:Zeoswolf@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 1:30 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap
>
> In a message dated 10/23/00 1:32:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> kevin@pacarsearch.com writes:
>
> <<  Can you tell me where you get your information on synthetic oil not
> being
>  beneficial if your engine has or 60-70K miles on it?  I have never heard
>  this, and was curious.  Don't want to be throwing good money away at my
> car
>  with 80k miles. >>

>   i was talking about CHANGING over to synthetic that late in an engines
> life.  not if you are already using it.  once you get around 60-70-80k
> miles,
> any damage that could have been prevented by synthetic oil has already
> been
> done.. so its really kinda useless to spend the extra money on it when you
>
> dont really need to.  that is all i meant.
>
> james
> 94R/T
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 14:32:20 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap

James, engine wear does not stop after 60 or 70K miles.  Switching over to
synthetic oil is a good idea regardless of engine age.
   To Bart, just switch over to synthetic and don't look back.  Keep your
normal oil change intervals, there is no need to flush the old oil out since
the synthetic does not bond to the metal in the engine.  It would be a good
idea to run a motor flush treatment through the engine though to clean out
your lifters and oil passages.  It might help the ticking.  I use STP motor
flush right before an oil change and it seemed to help my ticking.


Take care,

Kevin Schappell

Learn more about your car
http://www.AutoEducation.com

Online Mobile Audio SuperStore
http://mobilesounds.vstorecar.com

3SI members.... you have to see this page
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead/mitsu2.htm


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Zeoswolf@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 2:30 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap
>
>
> In a message dated 10/23/00 1:32:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> kevin@pacarsearch.com writes:
>
> <<  Can you tell me where you get your information on
> synthetic oil not being
>  beneficial if your engine has or 60-70K miles on it?  I have
> never heard
>  this, and was curious.  Don't want to be throwing good money
> away at my car
>  with 80k miles. >>
>
>   i was talking about CHANGING over to synthetic that late in
> an engines
> life.  not if you are already using it.  once you get around
> 60-70-80k miles,
> any damage that could have been prevented by synthetic oil
> has already been
> done.. so its really kinda useless to spend the extra money
> on it when you
> dont really need to.  that is all i meant.
>
> james
> 94R/T
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 14:36:28 EST
From: "Rick H." <tt_3kgt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Parts for sale

Group,

   I want to thank everyone for all of the suggestions that I have recieved
so far about my 'tapping' problem. I will change out the oil this week with
a lower weight synthetic and see if that helps the problem. Also some of you
was asking about how many miles was on the car. This car has 104K and looks
like it has 4k. I had been looking for a car like this around here for sale
for 5 months until I found this one and had to go from Indiana to Maryland
to get it. I took the chance with the higher milage but after checking the
car out it has been extremly well taken care of. Well on to my question.

   I am looking for several aftermarket parts that I am looking to purchase.
If any of you know of anoyone selling these parts (excluding distributors)
please let me know. Here is the list and thanks again for all of the help.

1. FIPK
2. Aftermarket spark plug wires
3. Front Strut Bar
4. Boost, EGT, guages
5. Electronic Boost Controller

Any other aftermarket parts would be considered and would be happy to hear
from anyone! :) Thanks!

Rick
1993 3KGT VR-4
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 15:40:54 -0400
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Launch technique

er, don't rev in neutral then throw into gear... unless u like replacing
transmissions that is...

do POWERBRAKE:leave it in DRIVE then foot (hard) on brake then start
pressing gas down right until wheels start to spin.  hold it there until
last yellow then FLOOR the gas while releasing the brakes...  if the car
were RWD u could ALSO use the parking brake to prevent wheelspin (& put a
larger load on the motor). 
________________________________________________________________
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 14:43:07 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Parts for sale

> 3. Front Strut Bar

Not gonna find one of those...  There's no room to fit one, although some
people have said they know of places that make them.  When asked where they
found them, they suddenly "forget" where they saw them.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 15:07:24 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: Lone Star Porsche Club Driver's Ed schedule for 2001

[Willis, Charles E.]  Rich, et al.,

Here are the dates for the Lone Star PCA High Speed Drivers Ed
events posted on their web site for 2001.  These are run at Texas World
Speedway in College Station, Texas.

Feb 3/4
May 5/6
Sep 8/9
Oct 20/21
Dec 1/2

That's all they have listed - nothing for June, July or August,
which is unusual.  I'll let you know if I hear of an update.

Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 17:46:51 EDT
From: Merlin916@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap

  All,

        I have to agree with kevin on this one.  One of the major properties
of the oil that helps prevent engine wear is the additives.  Without going
into extreme detail(as im sure this is going to be long enough), I will just
say that there are several additives in synthetic that do not occur in
"dinasour" oils. 
   
    As I posted before, in the engines of all my cars I use Shell Rotella. 
Rotella is an oil designed for desiel engines.  Because these engines use a
high compression rate to ignite the air fuel mixture, they sustain much more
mechanical stress that gasoline engines.  As such there are additives in oils
designed for said engines that have additives that are not included in oils
for gasoline engines.  This is why i use Rotella in  my cars.  My suspicions
that this oil would be better for gasoline engines was confirmed by a
chemical engineer under the employment of Texaco for the last 22 years. 

    As to the change to synthetic oil at high mileage, synthetic oil is
always better.  Always.  It will never do any harm to change to synthetic
oil, and it will almost always be beneficial to the car.

Joe

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 17:51:15 EDT
From: Zeoswolf@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap

In a message dated 10/23/00 2:42:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org writes:

<< Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st >>

   ok ok,
   This doesn't seem to be going over too well.  I use mobil 1 in my car..
and she has had synthetic in her since day one.  I was, however, told by some
others (including mechanics and other 3/s members) that it is not all that
beneficial to switch over to synthetic oil at such high miles.  Maybe I'm
wrong, maybe I'm right... the truth is though, I don't know for sure. 
Everyone has thier own opinions on synthetics.  I am a full supporter of
synthetic oil myself so don't get me wrong.  As far as the cigarette comment,
that doesn't hold true to engines and if anyone thinks putting synthetic oil
in, just like quiting cigarettes, will somehow be a miracle cure... you are
wrong.  Humans heal, metal doesn't.  Yes synthetic is better than regular
oil, no doubt about that... but putting synthetic in an engine with 104k
miles on it isn't going to make everything all better.  It MAY help, it MAY
not.  I've heard both ends of the story.  Basically, I am in no way trying to
start a flame here... but I am trying to get everyone to see my point as well
as the others.  My suggestion, go ahead, use synthetic, if it makes a
difference then all the power to ya!  If not, than oh well ya know?  Sorry
for annoying thread here.. please forgive me list!  : )

james
94R/T 

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 18:00:00 EDT
From: Merlin916@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap

All


   OK - I think i see James' point now.  He is correct in saying that the
switch to synthetic is not a cure all.  Its not mechanic in a bottle.  And
its definitely not as good as having had it in your engine from mile one. 
And while I must still maintain that it will almost certianly do your engine
good at any mileage, you should be using it from the start to extract its
full potential.

I hope we're all agreed.

Joe

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 18:02:15 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help! Tire question

Maybe its the brake shields touching the rotors.  Mine did that after a
tranny change cause they must have banged it hard by accident and it was
bent.

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
To: Watkins, Jim <jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Cc: 'Mike Baldwin' <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>;
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st <team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Monday, October 23, 2000 6:17 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! Tire question


>I actually notice the whirring most when I let go of the gas and am
>coasting (less engine noise so I can hear everything else). I am assuming
>tires rubbing would give me lower gas mileage.
>
>PS Have you done any mods to your cars?
>
>On Mon, 23 Oct 2000, Watkins, Jim wrote:
>
>> Mike,
>> As a San Jose resident with 2 VR4s, I can say that 17 mpg is what you'll
get
>> unless you only use you car on long trips.  Whirring might be the turbos
>> spooling up.  Does it happen if you stay off the boost?
>>
>> Jim 91 VR4, 95 Spyder VR4
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Mike Baldwin [mailto:mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu]
>> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 10:59 AM
>> To: team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
>> Subject: Team3S: Help! Tire question
>>
>>
>> Hi, I recently took in my car for a check engine problem and to get my
>> tires rotated. Upon getting it back, the car seemed to drive slower and
>> there has been a sort of whirring noise.
>>
>> My uneducated, based-on-nothing guess was that maybe one of the tires was
>> rubbing against something, but I am not sure how I can confirm this. All
4
>> tires I have on the car are of the same type. Also, for the last few
>> fill-ups my mileage has been about 17 mpg for combo of city/highway
>> driving.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Michael 97 VR4
>>
>> PS the dealership I went to was in San Jose, CA
>>
>>
>> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>>
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #303
*********************


team3s            Tuesday, October 24 2000            Volume 01 : Number 304




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 18:15:03 -0500
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Camber Question

All,

When switching to a 1" drop Eibach spring, I'm assuming the biggest
alignment problem is added neg. camber.  As stated in the past, it is
desirable to add one or two degrees of neg. camber for open track use.  That
being the case, are there any significant alignment issues with switching to
a 1" drop, i.e. are any alignment correction kits required?

Thanks in advance,
DaveT/92TT


____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
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Request a CDROM  1-800-333-3633
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 19:47:59 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: synthetic oil was Tap Tap Tap Tap

> As such there are additives in oils designed for
> said engines that have additives that are not
> included in oils for gasoline engines.  This is
> why i use Rotella in  my cars.  My suspicions
> that this oil would be better for gasoline engines
> was confirmed by a chemical engineer under the
> employment of Texaco for the last 22 years. 

So why don't they put those same additives in their oil for passenger cars
then?  You'd think if they had a better formulation in their diesel truck
oils which was good for cars as well that they'd put in all the
forumlations.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 21:30:09 -0400
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: brakes...

Hello,
I need to get new rotors on my base '92 stealth. I don't need anything
extreme, but I wanted to get one of these two:
Powerslot rotors from carparts.com
or
Stillen rotors.
Will I feel any difference between these two brands? Again, I don't race or
anything, just drive really fast...


Thanks!
Dusan

'92 base Stealth
K&N FIPK
BOSCH platinum +4
BOSCH spark plug wires
Advil bottle


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 20:44:09 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: brakes...

You won't see any difference with those rotors, powerslot or stock rotors.

If you drive fast, they will all warp and all die.

Look into finding someone who is selling VR4 brakes and do an upgrade to
your car.


Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Dusan R. Simovic
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:30 PM
To: 3STeam
Subject: Team3S: brakes...

Hello,
I need to get new rotors on my base '92 stealth. I don't need anything
extreme, but I wanted to get one of these two:
Powerslot rotors from carparts.com
or
Stillen rotors.
Will I feel any difference between these two brands? Again, I don't race or
anything, just drive really fast...


Thanks!
Dusan

'92 base Stealth
K&N FIPK
BOSCH platinum +4
BOSCH spark plug wires
Advil bottle


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 18:54:53 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Parts for sale

Bozz Speed in Japan displays them on their VR4 showcase car but do not list
them for sale on their web site.

There has been talk on at least twice on this list from different people who
had either built or had designed them.  They have yet to become public if
they actually exist.

An underhood design is certainly possible.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> > 3. Front Strut Bar
>
> Not gonna find one of those...  There's no room to fit one, although some
> people have said they know of places that make them.  When asked
> where they
> found them, they suddenly "forget" where they saw them.
>
> -Matt


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 23:21:52 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Parts for sale

> Bozz Speed in Japan displays them on their VR4 showcase
> car but do not list them for sale on their web site.

Haven't seen that...  Do you have a URL?

> An underhood design is certainly possible.

I suppose you could "clean up" the rats nest of vacuum lines behind the
plenum and try to put it there, but you have the turbo output line to
contend with.  How much is the motor able to rotate back in the motor
mounts?  Would it rock enough to hit a bar placed behind the plenum? 
Speaking of motor mounts, it would be nice to get urethane motor mount
bushings made...  The rubber ones seem a little too "squishy".

I'd love to buy a front strut tower bar...  If someone makes one, I'll buy
it right now (well, after I buy a new clutch).  So far nobody's been able to
show any info for someone that has one for sale.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 00:28:42 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 275/40R17 on stock rims?

I've been looking all over for 18's larger than 9.0.  Can you please tell me
where I can find some that will actually fit our cars.

Michael
98 VR4

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Geoff Mohler

The 17x10s will be for sale eventually when I move to 18*11 or 12s.


- -------------------------------------------------------------
|    The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to   |
|   strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible  |
|            within the cavity of the car itself.           |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 21:41:47 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Parts for sale

> > Bozz Speed in Japan displays them on their VR4 showcase
> > car but do not list them for sale on their web site.
>
> Haven't seen that...  Do you have a URL?

http://www.bozz.co.jp/


> > An underhood design is certainly possible.
>
> I suppose you could "clean up" the rats nest of vacuum lines behind the
> plenum and try to put it there, but you have the turbo output line to
> contend with.  How much is the motor able to rotate back in the motor
> mounts?  Would it rock enough to hit a bar placed behind the plenum?
> Speaking of motor mounts, it would be nice to get urethane motor mount
> bushings made...  The rubber ones seem a little too "squishy".

A two-pece design running from the strut tower to the firewall is achievable
and will accomplish the same thing as a conventional design.  Such a design
would sidestep any of the potential issues cited above.


Barry

> -Matt


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 00:10:36 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Parts for sale

>>> Bozz Speed in Japan displays them on their VR4 showcase
>>> car but do not list them for sale on their web site.

>> Haven't seen that...  Do you have a URL?

> http://www.bozz.co.jp/

Can you be more specific?  I can't read Japanese, and digging around the
site I wasn't able to find a picture with the strut tower bar.

> A two-pece design running from the strut tower to the
> firewall is achievable and will accomplish the same thing
> as a conventional design.  Such a design would sidestep
> any of the potential issues cited above.

As long as you are willing to drill holes and somehow get solid bolt anchors
in there (or weld some sort of anchor plate to the firewall).  Ugh.
Actually, now that I think about it - maybe I wouldn't benefit from a strut
tower bar since the firewall section of my car is supposed to be reinforced.
Maybe that extra 300 pounds is good for something after all...  ;-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 01:55:21 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel pump?

Anyone know anything about the stock fuel pumps on the non-turbo vs. the
turbos???

There is a dutch auction for two Turbo Fuel Pumps (Stock) on Ebay, and I am
wondering the difference, and also the possibility of replacing the
non-turbo fuel pump - would be possibly safer than stock when running NOS???

I mean - they flow the same pressure right, only with the turbo capable of
flowing a higher rate correct?

- -Cody


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 09:31:31 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 275/40R17 on stock rims?

Okay, I went ahead and got 2 of the 275 width tires mounted on my stock rims
and after seeing it, there's NO WAY I would use them for lapping.  They
bulge WAY too much.  A friend of mine is going to borrow them for use at the
drag strip on his Supra, which I think will be fine, but any sort of
cornering is out of the question.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To: "'Team3S'" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 11:28 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 275/40R17 on stock rims?


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 11:59:08 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Parts for sale

Hello everyone

Just wanted to give the team a heads up, I am parting out my '91 Pearl
White RT/TT that was in an accident a few weeks ago.  Check it out at:

http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=13613

Take care everyone!

Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)


__________________________________________________
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 11:16:53 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: FW: Lone Star Porsche Club Driver's Ed schedule for 2001

As soon as I sent this schedule, I learned that there will also be a June
9-10, 2001 Drivers ed event.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 3:07 PM
> To: 'Merritt'
> Cc: stealth_d@starnet.net; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Lone Star Porsche Club Driver's Ed schedule for 2001
>
> [Willis, Charles E.]  Rich, et al.,
>
> Here are the dates for the Lone Star PCA High Speed Drivers Ed events
> posted on their web site for 2001.  These are run at Texas World Speedway
> in College Station, Texas.
>
> Feb 3/4
> May 5/6
> Sep 8/9
> Oct 20/21
> Dec 1/2
>
> That's all they have listed - nothing for June, July or August, which is
> unusual.  I'll let you know if I hear of an update.
>
> Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 09:04:27 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Engine Lockup - Episode IV: A New Hope...

Well, my mechanical troubles seem to finally be at an end, but not without
causing some final annoyance.  To recap from our last episode...

Our hero, a restless young farm hand on the remote planet of Tatooine, had
taken his 3000GT to Tashi Station to pick up some power converters...er...to
the Mitsubishi dealership to see what the heck had locked up his engine.  A
new starter, ring gear, flywheel, clutch, and two weeks later, it was
finally ready.  The excited youth went with a friend to pick up his car and
they took it home. Later that evening they returned to the driveway, only to
find his home destroyed and his Uncle Owen and Aunt Martha butchered by Ford
Storm Troopers!!  (Wrong movie again...sorry.)  He actually found that his
3000GT wouldn't start again.  Very frustrated that after two weeks and 1500+
dollars of repairs his vehicle didn't work, he resolved not to touch the
damn thing and let the dealership fix their own sloppy work.  That brings us
current...

I had the car towed in last Friday, and they said they'd try to look at it
by the end of the day.  They didn't.  Saturday, no Mitsubishi mechanics were
working.  I waited all day Sunday looking forward to Monday.  No Mitsu
mechanics working Monday, either.  Finally, I got a call this morning
informing me that they'd fixed my 3000.  The problem?  The ignition wire had
slipped off the starter.  AARRRGH!!  I waited three days for them to fix a
problem I could have found and fixed in 5 minutes under the car! 

Ah well.  At least my car is alive and well again.  Not connecting the wire
well was an honest mistake on their part, and they fixed it within an hour
of opening today, so I'm not knocking the garage's service.  I'm just a
little annoyed the whole process was so drawn out. 

May all your repairs be less complicated.

- - Brian




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 11:27:02 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine Lockup - Episode IV: A New Hope...

did the bastards at least provide you with a loaner car?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geddes, Brian J [SMTP:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 11:04 AM
> To: Starnet Mailing List (E-mail); Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)
> Cc: Gross, Erik
> Subject: Team3S: Engine Lockup - Episode IV: A New Hope...
>
> Well, my mechanical troubles seem to finally be at an end, but not without
> causing some final annoyance.  To recap from our last episode...
>
> Our hero, a restless young farm hand on the remote planet of Tatooine, had
> taken his 3000GT to Tashi Station to pick up some power
> converters...er...to
> the Mitsubishi dealership to see what the heck had locked up his engine.
> A
> new starter, ring gear, flywheel, clutch, and two weeks later, it was
> finally ready.  The excited youth went with a friend to pick up his car
> and
> they took it home. Later that evening they returned to the driveway, only
> to
> find his home destroyed and his Uncle Owen and Aunt Martha butchered by
> Ford
> Storm Troopers!!  (Wrong movie again...sorry.)  He actually found that his
> 3000GT wouldn't start again.  Very frustrated that after two weeks and
> 1500+
> dollars of repairs his vehicle didn't work, he resolved not to touch the
> damn thing and let the dealership fix their own sloppy work.  That brings
> us
> current...
>
> I had the car towed in last Friday, and they said they'd try to look at it
> by the end of the day.  They didn't.  Saturday, no Mitsubishi mechanics
> were
> working.  I waited all day Sunday looking forward to Monday.  No Mitsu
> mechanics working Monday, either.  Finally, I got a call this morning
> informing me that they'd fixed my 3000.  The problem?  The ignition wire
> had
> slipped off the starter.  AARRRGH!!  I waited three days for them to fix a
> problem I could have found and fixed in 5 minutes under the car! 
>
> Ah well.  At least my car is alive and well again.  Not connecting the
> wire
> well was an honest mistake on their part, and they fixed it within an hour
> of opening today, so I'm not knocking the garage's service.  I'm just a
> little annoyed the whole process was so drawn out. 
>
> May all your repairs be less complicated.
>
> - Brian
>
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 09:17:04 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine Lockup - Episode IV: A New Hope...

Nope.  I drove the most reliable car I've ever had: my 1991 4 door Geo
Metro.  I've beat the hell out of that little car, but its 3 cylinders of
fury just keep on pounding.  Amazing. 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 9:27 AM
> To: 'Geddes, Brian J'; Starnet Mailing List (E-mail); Team3S Mailing
> List (E-mail)
> Cc: Gross, Erik
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine Lockup - Episode IV: A New Hope...
>
>
> did the bastards at least provide you with a loaner car?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Geddes, Brian J [SMTP:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 11:04 AM
> > To: Starnet Mailing List (E-mail); Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)
> > Cc: Gross, Erik
> > Subject: Team3S: Engine Lockup - Episode IV: A New Hope...
> >
> > Well, my mechanical troubles seem to finally be at an end,
> but not without
> > causing some final annoyance.  To recap from our last episode...
> >
> > Our hero, a restless young farm hand on the remote planet
> of Tatooine, had
> > taken his 3000GT to Tashi Station to pick up some power
> > converters...er...to
> > the Mitsubishi dealership to see what the heck had locked
> up his engine.
> > A
> > new starter, ring gear, flywheel, clutch, and two weeks
> later, it was
> > finally ready.  The excited youth went with a friend to
> pick up his car
> > and
> > they took it home. Later that evening they returned to the
> driveway, only
> > to
> > find his home destroyed and his Uncle Owen and Aunt Martha
> butchered by
> > Ford
> > Storm Troopers!!  (Wrong movie again...sorry.)  He actually
> found that his
> > 3000GT wouldn't start again.  Very frustrated that after
> two weeks and
> > 1500+
> > dollars of repairs his vehicle didn't work, he resolved not
> to touch the
> > damn thing and let the dealership fix their own sloppy
> work.  That brings
> > us
> > current...
> >
> > I had the car towed in last Friday, and they said they'd
> try to look at it
> > by the end of the day.  They didn't.  Saturday, no
> Mitsubishi mechanics
> > were
> > working.  I waited all day Sunday looking forward to
> Monday.  No Mitsu
> > mechanics working Monday, either.  Finally, I got a call
> this morning
> > informing me that they'd fixed my 3000.  The problem?  The
> ignition wire
> > had
> > slipped off the starter.  AARRRGH!!  I waited three days
> for them to fix a
> > problem I could have found and fixed in 5 minutes under the car! 
> >
> > Ah well.  At least my car is alive and well again.  Not
> connecting the
> > wire
> > well was an honest mistake on their part, and they fixed it
> within an hour
> > of opening today, so I'm not knocking the garage's service.
>  I'm just a
> > little annoyed the whole process was so drawn out. 
> >
> > May all your repairs be less complicated.
> >
> > - Brian
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:59:41 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Radio swap possible?

Hello all

For the radio swapping experts:
Does anyone know if I can swap a radio from a '91 TT into a '92 ES? The
TT has the tuner/cass and seperate CD player w/ steering wheel controls,
and the ES has the tuner/cass only w/ no wheel controls. Any and all
help most appreciated!!!!

Ken Stanton
Organizer - 3Si Rochester (NY)
__________________
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Plates 007KEN



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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 21:21:57 +0100
From: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brakes Revisted ALCON

http://www.alcon.co.uk/

As used by BozzSpeed Show Car at

http://www.bozz.co.jp/autosalon2/1999/gto/index.html

I am getting details and price and will post them here soon. I never even
realised they were a UK company so I can go see them with the car :)))

eMail:                 george.shaw@btinternet.com
Fax/Voice Mail:  +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Mobile:               +44 (0) 78 1162 5179
Home:                 +44 (0) 28 9062 8924
ICQ#:                          1741675



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 13:52:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: jdorsey <ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: turbos shot? 

Group,
I'm driving along and I shift into second and:
1)the car surges forward (revs jump)
2)the turbo guage shoots to maximum boost

I shift into third and same thing.  I coast over to
the shoulder of the road and the car cuts off.  When I
start it again the turbo guage doesn't drop below 0
(stays at midpoint when the engine idles).  When I put
it in gear it jumps back up to max boost and stays
there again...

Is this indicative that one of both of the turbos is
shot?  Damn, I hope not...If so, I know I'm looking at
$$$$$$$$$$ for repairs...

JD

__________________________________________________
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:08:35 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbos shot? 

Your turbos will only provide boost under load and RPM.
If it's showing boost at idle then you have an electronics
problem.
I assume you're talking about the stock boost gage which
calculates boost based on engine parameters and doesn't
measure actual boost.
It sounds like an electronics problem not turbos --- what
about drivability do you still have power, does it start
OK ??????

    Jim Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: jdorsey <ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
To: Team3S Stealth <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>

> Group,
> I'm driving along and I shift into second and:
> 1)the car surges forward (revs jump)
> 2)the turbo guage shoots to maximum boost
>
> I shift into third and same thing.  I coast over to
> the shoulder of the road and the car cuts off.  When I
> start it again the turbo guage doesn't drop below 0
> (stays at midpoint when the engine idles).  When I put
> it in gear it jumps back up to max boost and stays



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 16:41:22 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: turbos shot? 

check the y-pipe connections before you buy new turbos.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: jdorsey [SMTP:ja_dorsey@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 3:52 PM
> To: Team3S Stealth
> Subject: Team3S: turbos shot? 
>
> Group,
> I'm driving along and I shift into second and:
> 1)the car surges forward (revs jump)
> 2)the turbo guage shoots to maximum boost
>
> I shift into third and same thing.  I coast over to
> the shoulder of the road and the car cuts off.  When I
> start it again the turbo guage doesn't drop below 0
> (stays at midpoint when the engine idles).  When I put
> it in gear it jumps back up to max boost and stays
> there again...
>
> Is this indicative that one of both of the turbos is
> shot?  Damn, I hope not...If so, I know I'm looking at
> $$$$$$$$$$ for repairs...
>
> JD
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf!  It's FREE.
> http://im.yahoo.com/
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:51:27 -0700
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: synthetic oil

There is actually a reason not to change over. It depends on the type of
gaskets the motor has. Regular oil makes some types of gaskets expand.
When you switch to synthetic they shrink back up. Sometimes they will
start leaking, sometimes not. Synthetic is better for the motor, and
will help wear no matter how many miles you have.
 
>   i was talking about CHANGING over to synthetic that late in an engines
> life.  not if you are already using it.  once you get around 60-70-80k miles,
> any damage that could have been prevented by synthetic oil has already been
> done.. so its really kinda useless to spend the extra money on it when you
> dont really need to.  that is all i meant.

- --
Todd Schmalzried                      q11981@email.mot.com
- -You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the change? Think about it.  O-

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:56:48 PDT
From: Tang_Kenneth <kent@rosemail.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Team3S: Pull con rod w/engine in car?

Rick's problem has some similarity to my 93 VR4 problem.
Here is my update.
I have narrowed the cause of the loud clanging/knocking sound from
the top of engine could be one of the following:

1. Defective lifter, where bleeding it won't work.
    Clanging noise is much louder than lifter tap-tap-tap.
   
   Solution: Find the bad lifter and replace. Head doesn't come off.
 
2. Valve/Head failure. Probably not it, since runs ok, no smoke.

   Solution: Head/s come off.

3. Con rod - big or small end
   Solution: Head/s come off & maybe pull engine also.
         
My question for the group - Can the Con Rods and pistons be pulled
                            without taking engine out of car?
                            It would be nice to pull the con rod/piston
                            out first to be sure it is the problem.

Thanks for your help in advance.

kent@rosemail.rose.hp.com
============================================================================
===


Rick wrote:

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 12:07:15 EST
From: "Rick H." <tt_3kgt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tap Tap Tap Tap

Hello Everyone!

     I am having a problem that is quite disturbing. I have had my car what
is going on three months and have not had any problems out of it yet. I have

pretty much parked it for the winter and have not driven it a whole lot in
the past couple of weeks. Although the car has not been driven it has been
started and let warm up from time to time. I noticed last night that when I
started it there was a tapping noise from under the hood. It is constant. No

delays just a consistent TAP! :)

     Well I pulled the car out and went for a ride and there is no
difference in the power. The car is boosting and running at peek
performance, but yet when I got out of the car and popped the hood with the
engine still running there is a TAPPING NOISE!

      I checked out the archive pages on this and I found quite a few things

but nothing that was really solid of a lead to the problem. The sound is
coming from the middle of the motor on the top. I am not really mechanically

inclined but it is behind the front plate and in front of the rear plate
(pendelum)? It is right in front of what looks to be the fuel rails... I
don't know how to explain it. Please helP!

Rick -
93 3KGT VR4



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 17:55:17 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbos shot?

Check y-pipe and BOV connections, but also throttle.  If the boost gauge
is showing 0 vacuum, then that means that the throttle blade is not
closing and the intake manifold is seeing atmospheric pressure.  If not,
yes check electronics and the such.  And, if you need parts, email me!
I have stock '91 TT parts for sale (from total loss accident) for sale
right now!!
Check out:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=13613

Ken Stanton
2 - '91 Pearl White RT/TT's
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)

jdorsey wrote:

> Group,
> I'm driving along and I shift into second and:
> 1)the car surges forward (revs jump)
> 2)the turbo guage shoots to maximum boost
>
> I shift into third and same thing.  I coast over to
> the shoulder of the road and the car cuts off.  When I
> start it again the turbo guage doesn't drop below 0
> (stays at midpoint when the engine idles).  When I put
> it in gear it jumps back up to max boost and stays
> there again...
>
> Is this indicative that one of both of the turbos is
> shot?  Damn, I hope not...If so, I know I'm looking at
> $$$$$$$$$$ for repairs...
>
> JD
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf!  It's FREE.
> http://im.yahoo.com/
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 17:42:27 CDT
From: "Dan Erick (3SI #889)" <ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: BOV and Misfiring!

Can someone please tell me what the stock BOV sounds like?

Also, I believe my car is misfiring. It only does it when I floor it in
2-4th gears. And after I've done it a couple times in the same run it seems
to go away. Any clues? Thanks!

Dan Erick
Firestorm Red 92 Stealth R/T TT
K&N FIPK
http://vr4.cjb.net/

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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 17:54:19 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV and Misfiring!

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Erick (3SI #889) <ttstealth@hotmail.com>

> Can someone please tell me what the stock BOV sounds like?
.
If you let off on the throttle while under boost the stock BOV makes
whooshing sound as air is released back into the turbo inlets. It's
not particularly loud, but it is easily heard.
=================================================

> Also, I believe my car is misfiring. It only does it when I floor it in
> 2-4th gears. And after I've done it a couple times in the same run it seems
> to go away. Any clues? Thanks!


Probably needs plugs --- if you're running more than stock boost you need
to regap the plugs down to about .035" or you'll have a misfire. Bad spark plug
wires can also cause a misfire under load

        Jim Berry



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #304
*********************