team3s            Friday, October 20 2000            Volume 01 : Number 300




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 17:25:35 -0500
From: "Dale T. Kroetz" <kroetz@mvn.net>
Subject: Team3S: Steering wheel radio controls

Anybody have a set for sale that all the buttons still work? 1st gen.
steering wheel.

- --



Dale T. Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 19:24:25 -0400
From: "Steve Sullivan" <Sully@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60 Service Questions and Special Tool Loaner

I am going to do my 60K service on Monday and was wondering if anyone has
the special tool needed to remove the pulleys that I could borrow or any
ideas on how to do it without the crappy special tool.  Thanks in Advance !


Steve
94 VR-4


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 21:35:16 EDT
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Help!!  Driver's side window stuck in the down position

Hi,

I rolled my driver's side window down tonight and when I went to raise it
the only thing that happened was the motor made it's turning sound and the
window didn't move.  Now when I try to make it raise or lower the window the
motor turns and then there is a grinding sound near the time that the window
would be at the top or bottom of it's motion.  I need some help badly and I
don't have my service manual with me.

Thanks,
Michael D. Crose
1992 3000GT VR-4

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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 18:25:06 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Team3S: CAPS

I'm having trouble setting up the CAPS program, and was wondering if
anybody could steer me in the right direction. When running "caps.exe", to
extract "setup.exe", i always (with 3 downloads) get the following messages;

1) the required volume is absent
2) crc failed in setup.exe (this one comes late if i let it keep running
after the first error)

I know i can get it from Vineet on the dsm cd, but was hoping for a quicker
solution.

Thanks,
J

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 19:13:39 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help!!  Driver's side window stuck in the down position

Sounds like the dreaded pulley/cable failure --- the window is moved up and
down by a motor and steel cable run over a 10¢ plastic pulley mechanism
which has a tendency to disassemble itself. I just had one replaced [ under
warranty ] and the part was $185 and the labor was $250 --- probably a
30 min. job if you know what you're doing 1½ if you don't.

        Jim Berry


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Michael D. Crose <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>

> I rolled my driver's side window down tonight and when I went to raise it
> the only thing that happened was the motor made it's turning sound and the
> window didn't move.  Now when I try to make it raise or lower the window the
> motor turns and then there is a grinding sound near the time that the window
> would be at the top or bottom of it's motion.  I need some help badly and I
> don't have my service manual with me.



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 20:09:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheel spacers

Ya..im BIGtime sold on the CCWs.

On Thu, 19 Oct 2000, Jim Berry wrote:

> Geoff
>
> Thanks for the additional information ----
>
> Bottom line then is --- 1" is OK as long as I don't mind it looking like
> a monster truck  :-)
>
> Seems like the proper solution is to adjust the track by getting the
> proper offset when I buy my new wheels [ Are you still sold on the CCW's ].
> Reducing the offset to 20mm should move the centerline of the rim out 1".
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
>
> Yes...I mis spoke on one thing.
>
> My WHEEL offset sits 1/2" outside what stock is, to that I added 1/2"
> spacers to the front.
>
> Sorry.
>
> The extra offset is by design as well.
>
> The wheels are 17x10s with 275 Kumho's all round.
>
> On Wed, 18 Oct 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> > Geoff
> > wait a minute here ---- you just said I should limit the spacer to ½" and
> > then you said you have ½" plus ¾" [ 1¼" if my calculator is correct ].
> > Why do I only get to use a ½" spacer   :-(.
> >
> > Also, what tire size do you use ?????????
> >
> >        Jim Berry
> > ===============================================
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> > To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
> >
> > I also had no rubbing issues in front, just in back.
> >
> > I actually spaced EVERY wheel out 1/2", then added 3/4" to each front
> > tire.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> |    The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to   |
> |   strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible  |
> |            within the cavity of the car itself.           |
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
|    The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to   |
|   strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible  |
|            within the cavity of the car itself.           |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 22:58:36 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: 275/40R17 on stock rims?

Hey guys, I have a set of 4 275/40R17 Kumho V700's but I have no rims to put
them on right now, except for my stock Spyder rims which I believe are
17x8.5.  Would it be safe to put these tires on those rims?  Seems like they
wouldn't be wide enough, but if I remember correctly, my first 3000GT many
years ago had 275/40R17 Goodyears on the stock '93 VR-4 rims and that worked
fine.  Any recommendations?

I'd love to buy some aftermarket rims, but I can't afford a set of 17x9.5's
or 17x10's right now.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 21:05:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 275/40R17 on stock rims?

It'll be "safe" but it will be impossible to grip well.

Far too much sidewall to get a flat face on the ground, and you'll scrub
on the edge of the tires pretty hard too because the sidewalls will be too
soft from the poor fitment.

They WILL be better than street tires, just a few seconds shorter than
optimal times on 10" wheels where 275 race tires belong.

On Thu, 19 Oct 2000, Jeff wrote:

> Hey guys, I have a set of 4 275/40R17 Kumho V700's but I have no rims to put
> them on right now, except for my stock Spyder rims which I believe are
> 17x8.5.  Would it be safe to put these tires on those rims?  Seems like they
> wouldn't be wide enough, but if I remember correctly, my first 3000GT many
> years ago had 275/40R17 Goodyears on the stock '93 VR-4 rims and that worked
> fine.  Any recommendations?
>
> I'd love to buy some aftermarket rims, but I can't afford a set of 17x9.5's
> or 17x10's right now.
>
> jeff
> '95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
> '90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
>
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
|    The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to   |
|   strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible  |
|            within the cavity of the car itself.           |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 23:28:00 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 275/40R17 on stock rims?

At 09:05 PM 10/19/00 -0700, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>It'll be "safe" but it will be impossible to grip well.
>Far too much sidewall to get a flat face on the ground, and you'll scrub
>on the edge of the tires pretty hard too because the sidewalls will be too
>soft from the poor fitment.
>They WILL be better than street tires, just a few seconds shorter than
>optimal times on 10" wheels where 275 race tires belong.

I have Milli Miglia Emotion wheels, 8 in. wide, and Tire Rack said these
would be OK to mount my Kuhmo race tires on. Have I been fibbed to?  Where
does it say you gotta use 10 in. wheels?  Please state yer reference.

Rich
>
>On Thu, 19 Oct 2000, Jeff wrote:
>
>> Hey guys, I have a set of 4 275/40R17 Kumho V700's but I have no rims to
put
>> them on right now, except for my stock Spyder rims which I believe are
>> 17x8.5.  Would it be safe to put these tires on those rims?  Seems like
they
>> wouldn't be wide enough, but if I remember correctly, my first 3000GT many
>> years ago had 275/40R17 Goodyears on the stock '93 VR-4 rims and that
worked
>> fine.  Any recommendations?
>>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 21:56:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 275/40R17 on stock rims?

Sure..its OK..they "fit" but theyre not optimal for racing.

You need as flat of a sidewall for a race tire as possible..theyre
stiffest that way.

On Thu, 19 Oct 2000, Merritt wrote:

> At 09:05 PM 10/19/00 -0700, Geoff Mohler wrote:
> >It'll be "safe" but it will be impossible to grip well.
> >Far too much sidewall to get a flat face on the ground, and you'll scrub
> >on the edge of the tires pretty hard too because the sidewalls will be too
> >soft from the poor fitment.
> >They WILL be better than street tires, just a few seconds shorter than
> >optimal times on 10" wheels where 275 race tires belong.
>
> I have Milli Miglia Emotion wheels, 8 in. wide, and Tire Rack said these
> would be OK to mount my Kuhmo race tires on. Have I been fibbed to?  Where
> does it say you gotta use 10 in. wheels?  Please state yer reference.
>
> Rich
> >
> >On Thu, 19 Oct 2000, Jeff wrote:
> >
> >> Hey guys, I have a set of 4 275/40R17 Kumho V700's but I have no rims to
> put
> >> them on right now, except for my stock Spyder rims which I believe are
> >> 17x8.5.  Would it be safe to put these tires on those rims?  Seems like
> they
> >> wouldn't be wide enough, but if I remember correctly, my first 3000GT many
> >> years ago had 275/40R17 Goodyears on the stock '93 VR-4 rims and that
> worked
> >> fine.  Any recommendations?
> >>
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
|    The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to   |
|   strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible  |
|            within the cavity of the car itself.           |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 00:05:57 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 275/40R17 on stock rims?

My reference is the chart that used to be on www.tirerack.com in the BFG
Comp T/A R1 section.  It showed the recommended rim widths for all of the
sizes that BFG offered.  Now they've crippled the chart severely, but you
can find the version for the new GForce R1 here:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=BFGoodrich&model=g-Force+T%2FA+R
1%2Cg-Force+T%2FA+R1A

and the one for the old Comp T/A R1 here:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=BFGoodrich&model=Comp+T%2FA+R1

Unfortunately they don't show us the whole chart anymore.  Anyway, I think
for 275/40R17, it showed 9-11" so I picked 10" which is right in the middle.
Are your Kumho's 275/40R17?  If they're 245/45R17 it might be okay to put
them on 8" rims.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>; "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Cc: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 275/40R17 on stock rims?


> I have Milli Miglia Emotion wheels, 8 in. wide, and Tire Rack said these
> would be OK to mount my Kuhmo race tires on. Have I been fibbed to?  Where
> does it say you gotta use 10 in. wheels?  Please state yer reference.
>
> Rich


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 22:46:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 275/40R17 on stock rims?

"Where does it say you gotta use 10 in. wheels?  Please state yer
reference."
- ---


"reference" would have to be common racing practice.

a 275 tire on a 8" wheel is slightly larger than _one-third_ wider than
the wheel.

Thats not how race tires are designed to fit on a wheel.  Like I said..the
"book" says a 275 will fit on a 8" wheel, but check around the track, see
how many bubble-wall tires people are racing on.

Using a 10" wheel you only have about an 8% difference in wheel width to
tire.  Just didnt think I could fit 10.5s in there easy without 10's to
test with.

The 17x10s will be for sale eventually when I move to 18*11 or 12s.

Checking references on min. width for 275 race tires:

I: Hoosier Roadrace 275/60D-15 bias-ply:  Minimum = 9", max = 12"
I: Hoosier Roadrace P275/40ZR-17 radial:  Minimum = 9.5", max = 12"

II "The 17 x 8 will be perfect for the 235/45's , but a little narrow for
the 255/40's"

III: "If you consult with high performance tire engineers, you will find
that a vast majority believe that a tire is best supported by a wheel that
is the same width as the tire tread face. The reason auto manufacturers
tend to go with slightly narrower wheels is that this combination results
in less sidewall support and, ultimately, a smoother and softer ride."

IV: "There is about a one inch window of optimum width. The trick is to
figure out that window. A good rule of thumb to use for determining proper
width is to use the tread width of the tire. Measure the tread width. Plus
or minus 1/2 inch from the tread dimension will indicate the proper rim
sizing. It is possible to use narrower wheels, but at a sacrifice to
shoulder wear and cornering power."

- ---
I: http://www.rsracing.com/    (my preferred Hoosier vendor)
II: http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/e36/tires/e36_m3_wheel_tires.html
III:ttp://crunch.colorado.edu/~cobra/topics/net/Ford-SVT-archive-97-2/1786.html
IV: http://www.hoosiertire.com/rrtire.htm
 
http://www.bmwclub.ca/ccrart3.htm is a cool reference I keep handy for
looking up "what do I do to fix THIS" when it comes to handling.  Printout
in all cars here at home actually.



- -------------------------------------------------------------
|    The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to   |
|   strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible  |
|            within the cavity of the car itself.           |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 08:57:12 -0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S: pics from the FIPK install

Here they are. The pictures from my FIPK install. As you will see many tools
were used. Manual, electric and air tools.One was even busted. Lesson
learned. Do not operate a circular saw on plastic parts without goggles.
That's not dirt on the garage floor. Those are little plastic shards. Most
of which went up my nose and in my face. The third picture is one of the
MAS. You can't see it very well in the picture but something got through the
filter at some point and put a nice dent in the screen. It's close to being
a hole. Not sure how it happened but it did. I know people have said that if
it's done right you don't need to mangle your stock air box but apparently I
didn't have the patience. It's such a rewarding feeling to finally get the
MAS off . I think it took about an hour total.


http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake01.jpg
http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake02.jpg
http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake03.jpg
http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake04.jpg
http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake05.jpg

- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 09:17:24 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: pics from the FIPK install

> The pictures from my FIPK install.
<snip>
> http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake01.jpg
> http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake02.jpg
> http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake03.jpg
> http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake04.jpg
> http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake05.jpg
>
> -Bart Kurek


Holy crap, Bart - you went *crazy* on that thing!  Just so those who haven't
installed a FIPK don't have a cow, it *is* possible to get the airbox
housing off without cutting the box to shreds... just have to be patient
with some wrenches/pliers.  Having a friend to hold the bolt ends while you
turn the nuts is helpful as well.  Although... I imagine Bart had more fun
getting his off - more power tools = more fun:)  BTW, Bart, grab a set of
needle-nose pliers and straighten out the honeycombs in there - your MAS
will thank you.

- --Erik


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 12:41:18 -0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: pics from the FIPK install

> > The pictures from my FIPK install.

Wow! Are some people *really* having this much trouble installing
the FIPK? Why? What's causing you to have to use a drill on the
stock airbox? It only took me like 20 minute start to finish, all I
needed was pliers, a philips head screwdriver, and allen wrenches
(for those silly nuts that k&n provides you).

Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org



> <snip>
> > http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake01.jpg
> > http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake02.jpg
> > http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake03.jpg
> > http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake04.jpg
> > http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake05.jpg
> >
> > -Bart Kurek
>
>
> Holy crap, Bart - you went *crazy* on that thing!  Just so those who
> haven't installed a FIPK don't have a cow, it *is* possible to get the
> airbox housing off without cutting the box to shreds... just have to
> be patient with some wrenches/pliers.  Having a friend to hold the
> bolt ends while you turn the nuts is helpful as well.  Although... I
> imagine Bart had more fun getting his off - more power tools = more
> fun:)  BTW, Bart, grab a set of needle-nose pliers and straighten out
> the honeycombs in there - your MAS will thank you.
>
> --Erik
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 09:59:44 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Engine Lockup:  The saga continues

All -

Well, after having my car at the dealership for almost two weeks getting
repaired from my disintegrated release bearing, I finally picked it up
yesterday afternoon.  It ended up with a new clutch, starter, flywheel, and
ring gear.  I looked over the old parts, paid the bill at the cashier's
window (OUCH!!!), and drove it away. (I didn't actually drive it; my friend
Erik drove my 3000, while I drove my...<shudder>...Geo Metro that I've been
carting around in for the last two weeks)  It started right up and ran great
with a nice grabby new clutch.  We ran a few errands on the way back to my
house, and each time my 3000 started up beautifully. 

We parked it at my house for an hour, and then I went out to take Erik
home...and my car wouldn't start.  Didn't even turn over!  It definitely
wasn't a dead battery, because everything electrical sprang to life...except
the brand new starter.  I could even hear the fuel pump whirring in the back
(this seems like a new sound to me, but maybe I'm imagining things).  With
an ear close to the engine (and someone else turning the key), I can hear a
spinning sound from the general area of the starter.  After my last
experience attempting to push start the car, I decided not to try it again
this time.  :)

In any case, my 3000 is out of commision again just hours after getting out
the shop...and I didn't even get to drive the damn thing!!!  It's getting
towed back to the dealership this afternoon.  After paying a repair bill
like I just payed, I'm NOT crawling around in the engine to figure out why
it's not working.  I'll let them deal with it on their tab. 

Anyone want a '96 green 3000GT, leather, sunroof, premium sound, beautiful
condition, with a new clutch, starter, flywheel, and ring gear?  May be one
for sale soon.  Stuff like this makes me think that I'm destined to trade up
to a VR-4 instead.  :)

- - Brian


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 14:41:36 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: pics from the FIPK install

It depends on the car and environment.  Soaking it with Liquid Wrench or
WD-40 for a day will also work.  Mine was about 5-1/2 years old so it was
stuck in there quite nicely.  Fortunately, my friend got the job of removing
the airbox so he went through all the pain with the Dremmel tool.

Those Southern cars in nice warm climates of no snow or road salt getting up
in their engines might have an easier time than I did (got the car from New
York four months ago).  Don't know how clean he kept the engine or if stuff
was spilled all over the airbox that helped seal it together.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi

- -----Original Message-----
From: Walton C. Gibson [mailto:kalla@tripoint.org]
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2000 1:41 PM
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: pics from the FIPK install

> > The pictures from my FIPK install.

Wow! Are some people *really* having this much trouble installing
the FIPK? Why? What's causing you to have to use a drill on the
stock airbox? It only took me like 20 minute start to finish, all I
needed was pliers, a philips head screwdriver, and allen wrenches
(for those silly nuts that k&n provides you).

Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org



> <snip>
> > http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake01.jpg
> > http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake02.jpg
> > http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake03.jpg
> > http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake04.jpg
> > http://www.bart.kurek.com/pictures/3000gt/intake05.jpg
> >
> > -Bart Kurek
>
>
> Holy crap, Bart - you went *crazy* on that thing!  Just so those who
> haven't installed a FIPK don't have a cow, it *is* possible to get the
> airbox housing off without cutting the box to shreds... just have to
> be patient with some wrenches/pliers.  Having a friend to hold the
> bolt ends while you turn the nuts is helpful as well.  Although... I
> imagine Bart had more fun getting his off - more power tools = more
> fun:)  BTW, Bart, grab a set of needle-nose pliers and straighten out
> the honeycombs in there - your MAS will thank you.
>
> --Erik


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 12:45:55 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil Pressure Question

So AFAIK, the general consensus seems to be that the stock oil
pressure should read around 1/8 - 1/4 when idling, 3/4 - 7/8 when at high
RPM, and slightly above 1/2 when cruising.  These are for when the engine is
warm, and readings are slightly higher when cold.  My car exhibits this
behavior, but I was driving another 3000GT last night that didn't ('96 base
model with CA emissions). 
The car I drove last night never had the oil pressure gauge rise
above 55-60% (slightly above halfway).  Warm or cold, even at 6-7,000 RPM.
Normally, this wouldn't make me that concerned, but I also know that this
car loses about 1-2qt of oil every 3000mi, and we haven't yet figured out
why.  No blue smoke (or any smoke for that matter) in the exhaust, no
excessive carbon on the exhaust tips, no noticeable puddles under the car
when parked, general performance is fine (other than the missing oil).
So what do you guys make of the oil pressure reading?  Any thoughts
on the missing oil?  It's had Mobil1 10W30 from 75,000mi - 86,000mi and
dinosaur oil before that, if you think that makes any difference.

Thanks,
- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          75,000 mi
   Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
   Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
   K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla               70,000mi
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:54:45 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Team3S: Oil Pressure Question]

I've got a thought....
Pull the PCV breather hose (short rubber hose) coming from the back
valve cover
to the intake.  If its caked in oil, then that most likely is _a_
source.  If
this is the case, then I would suspect that a compression test would
reveal
lower readings, and that the piston rings are worn.  This would explain
the
lower oil pressure...  try this - idle the car for a couple short
minutes, then
crawl in and give it a couple of quick shots to the throttle while
someone else
watches the tailpipe.  Even the slightest blue smoke?  I'm not sure if
I'm
headed in the right direction or not, but check/try those things, and
let us
know what they reveal.  If not...  we'll take a shot at some other
possibilities!

Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)

"Gross, Erik" wrote:

>         So AFAIK, the general consensus seems to be that the stock oil
> pressure should read around 1/8 - 1/4 when idling, 3/4 - 7/8 when at high
> RPM, and slightly above 1/2 when cruising.  These are for when the engine is
> warm, and readings are slightly higher when cold.  My car exhibits this
> behavior, but I was driving another 3000GT last night that didn't ('96 base
> model with CA emissions).
>         The car I drove last night never had the oil pressure gauge rise
> above 55-60% (slightly above halfway).  Warm or cold, even at 6-7,000 RPM.
> Normally, this wouldn't make me that concerned, but I also know that this
> car loses about 1-2qt of oil every 3000mi, and we haven't yet figured out
> why.  No blue smoke (or any smoke for that matter) in the exhaust, no
> excessive carbon on the exhaust tips, no noticeable puddles under the car
> when parked, general performance is fine (other than the missing oil).
>         So what do you guys make of the oil pressure reading?  Any thoughts
> on the missing oil?  It's had Mobil1 10W30 from 75,000mi - 86,000mi and
> dinosaur oil before that, if you think that makes any difference.
>
> Thanks,
> --Erik
>
> ------                                             ----------
> Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          75,000 mi
>    Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
>    Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
>    K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV CC
> '94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla               70,000mi
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 14:39:46 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: [Fwd: Re: Team3S: Oil Pressure Question]

> Pull the PCV breather hose (short rubber hose) coming from the back
> valve cover to the intake.  If its caked in oil, then that most likely is
_a_
> source.  If this is the case, then I would suspect that a compression test
would
> reveal lower readings, and that the piston rings are worn.  This
> would explain the lower oil pressure...

Hi Ken,
If you don't mind, I'm curious about a couple things you mention:

1) What exactly is the oil pressure gauge measuring?  I assumed that it
measures pressure in the line(s) *after* the oil pump and is a measure of
how much oil is getting sprayed up into the valve train.  Where all does the
oil pump spray oil, and where is the sending unit located WRT the other
components in the lubrication system and engine innards?

2) When you mentioned low cylinder compression causing low oil
pressure, what's the logic there? I see how worn rings would cause blow-by
and increase crankcase pressure, resulting in oil coming out of the PCV
system, but how does this affect oil pressure?

TIA,
- --Erik


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 20:15:12 -0400
From: smii <smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Help...VPC

Hi everyone,

Does anybody know what the best setting on an HKS VPC would be for our
cars?  Or, at least a good starting point?  I've turned down the gain
one short of being minimum and I'm still running kind of rich.  Every
now and then my check engine light turns on and it never happened until
upgraded my injectors and installed the VPC.  I know that this is one of
the symptoms you get when you run rich.  I then tried turning it to the
lowest setting, but then the car ran too lean and it stalled on me.  If
anyone could give me a good suggestion it would be greatly appreciated.
My current engine modifications are:

HKS VPC
HKS Super Mega Flow Air Intake
HKS Upgraded fuel pump
Greddy 550cc fuel injectors
Greddy Air Fuel Ratio Meter
Greddy Turbo Timer
Greddy EGT Meters (2)
15G turbos
Blitz SS BOV
Blitz Dual SBC
NGK platinum plugs (gapped .032")
Magnecore 8.5mm spark plug wires

Does anyone know where the dials sould be given these mods?  Or, what I
might need to do?  I'm hoping someone has some idea of what I should do.

Thanks,

Boris


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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