team3s           Thursday, October 19 2000           Volume 01 : Number 299




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 16:27:13 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: BOV Valve question

The VR-4 and I assume the R/T TT comes standard with a BOV (or more
precisely a turbocharger bypass valve) that opens and allows the
backpressure to vent and not surge to the turbos.  It is not a BOV since it
really vents it back to the air intake path and is not vented to the
atmosphere.

Benefits and drawbacks from either.  BOV vents metered and filtered air to
the atmosphere making the engine filter and meter more air to use.  A turbo
bypass valve (misnamed BOV in our manuals) vents the air, which is going to
damage the turbos, and routes it back into the intake path where it was
already filtered and metered and just needs to be shoved past the throttle
plate.

This took me a month to learn all the piping and where it actually is in the
engine and can easier show you than explain it.  Anyway, that should help.
You don't need to spend any money on one because the car already has it
(even the Supra TT has them I think).  However, for fun, you can disconnect
the connector pipe that makes the air venting thing and tape closed the
input hole and turn the connector pipe upwards.  This is your very own BOV
and when shifting you will hear a "hisssssssss" as the air escapes.  Shove a
harmonica or whistle in there and it will hummmmmm or whistle when you
shift.  Perfect for the clown cars with turbo.  If this were the Supra with
sequential turbos maybe you can make two different sounds.  Kewl.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, G-Tech Pro, and a custom spark
plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi

- -----Original Message-----
From: aa2345@wayne.edu [mailto:aa2345@wayne.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 4:00 PM
To: Team 3S International
Cc: aa2346@wayne.edu
Subject: Team3S: BOV Valve question

Hey gang,

I was reading on the internet about stuff related to our cars.  I ran
across some info on aftermarket BOV valves.  Here is a quote of what I
found.  Can somebody please tell me how necessary this is.  Both me and my
brother upgraded our cars to the APEXI AVC-R electronic boost controllers
and K&N FIPK.  Am I going to damage the turbos like it says in the
following paragraph?


"A blow off valve is a very important upgrade when upgrading your car.B
The  function of a blow off valve is to relieve compressor "surge" caused
when the  throttle plate closes under boost. The throttle plate closes as
you let off to  slow down or shift.  If this happens while the air is
pressurized, then the air  will be forced back to the turbos, causing
surge.  If repeated, this may  eventually cause damage to the
turbocharger.  An additional benefit of a blow off valve is quicker boost
recovery. By blowing off the unneeded air, the turbo  is able to recover
much quicker after a shift without having to force back the  initial
charge air.. We recommend and run this in our cars!"

From what I read, this sounds as a good BOV.  I want it to be reliable,
good for future upgrades, and QUIET (as close to the stock BOV as possible
before the mods).


GReddy Type-S Blow Off Valve -->  $299.00
" The Greddy Type-S blow off valve is a closed loop BOV just like the
stock BOV with higher flow capacity and much stronger piston spring for no
boost leaks. You will not experience you could have with a open air BOV.
This kit includes an adapter not made by Greddy to make it possible to
install on a 3000GT. We highly recommend this unit."

Thanks a lot everyone.

- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4

John
94 Pearl Yellow TT


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:33:12 -0700
From: Morgan Holly <morgan@popstudios.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?

It also help to live someplace other than Los Angeles. When I moved
to NY the price went down to $2,400 for 100-300-100 coverage.

At 3:25 PM -0500 10/18/00, Walton C. Gibson wrote:
>The state farm insurance rate for my '93 VR-4 is only $70 a month,
>and I'm 24. It helps having no previous accidents.
>
>They said it would go down even further when I'm 25. I can't wait for
>that!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- --

___________________
Morgan Holly
Director of Something
Cinram/POP DVD Center

Voice 310.899.7206
Fax 310.899.7230


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 16:32:25 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?

Here is what my aunt got for me from her link to the insurance side.  Might
not be a tech-question but it does relate ... especially if we discuss what
upgrades are covered by people.  :-)

> I looked up the rating symbol and
> saw it listed as "h25" which is a high performance car and a high
> symbol.  (The "average" cars have symbols of 10 or 12.)  Because of the
> high symbol, you'll probably find it advantageous to have a high
> deductible, such as $1000 deductible on collision and $500 ded. (or
> maybe $1000) on comprehensive (often called "other than collision). Ask
> your agent to quote it with different deductibles so that you can decide
> which is the better buy. 

> As far as special equipment added, if it's just upgrades on things such
> as air filters, then you'd just want to be sure to keep a record of the
> improvements you've made to car in case of a future loss.  If you are
> actually adding things to the car which it didn't have before, then many
> companies allow you to pay extra to have special equipment covered.
> (But I personally don't think it's worth paying for the extra coverage.)
> For example, some people add extra equipment to fix up their pickup
> trucks to make them more sporty.

> Since insurance on your car will already be high, you probably don't
> want to have it go even higher by paying for extra equipment. 

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi

- -----Original Message-----
From: Morgan Holly [mailto:morgan@popstudios.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 4:33 PM
To: kalla@tripoint.org; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?

It also help to live someplace other than Los Angeles. When I moved
to NY the price went down to $2,400 for 100-300-100 coverage.

At 3:25 PM -0500 10/18/00, Walton C. Gibson wrote:
>The state farm insurance rate for my '93 VR-4 is only $70 a month,
>and I'm 24. It helps having no previous accidents.
>
>They said it would go down even further when I'm 25. I can't wait for
>that!
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 16:43:09 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?

From my Aunt ... agreed that this should be off the list soon so if anyone
wants to follow this in more detail please email me OFF THE LIST.  Thanks.

-----Original Message-----
From: Flash's Aunt
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 4:39 PM

Glad to try to help with some answers...
Insurance companies definitely look at the last 3 years in
determining eligibility and surcharges but some of the preferred companies
look at the past 5 years.  For example, someone might be clear for the past
3 years but have a drunk driving ticket 4 years ago; in that case, he
wouldn't be eligible for the preferred company but could go in a "risk"
company and be rated for zero points-since he's clear for the last 3 years.
In Wisconsin the info stays on your driving record with the
state for at least 7 years; so I've heard that some companies (not any that
I represent though) turn down potential clients if there's a major
violation-such as drunk driving-in the past 7 years.
According to my symbol guide, the 98 VR-4 is listed as "h
26" and the Supra as "h 24" so that's why the VR-4 is more expensive to
insure.  There are several things that determine the symbol-it's not always
price...more often it's based on how often certain cars are involved in
collisions, the cost to repair certain models, and the availability of
parts.  So indirectly the fact that the VR-4 is no longer produced would
figure in to the availability of parts and thus the higher symbol.
That's also why vehicles such as American-made vans, such as
the Dodge Caravan (symbol 4 or 5) or Plymouth Voyager (symbol 4 or 5) are so
much less for insurance-there are so many of them so both new and used parts
are less plus vans tend to be driven by families and are usually driven at a
slower rate of speed since there are children aboard and if there is an
accident with a van, it usually isn't as serious as far as property damage.
Let me know if you need any further clarification.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi

- -----Original Message-----
From: Schilberg, Darren [mailto:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 4:32 PM
To: 'Morgan Holly'; kalla@tripoint.org; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?

Here is what my aunt got for me from her link to the insurance side.  Might
not be a tech-question but it does relate ... especially if we discuss what
upgrades are covered by people.  :-)

> I looked up the rating symbol and
> saw it listed as "h25" which is a high performance car and a high
> symbol.  (The "average" cars have symbols of 10 or 12.)  Because of the
> high symbol, you'll probably find it advantageous to have a high
> deductible, such as $1000 deductible on collision and $500 ded. (or
> maybe $1000) on comprehensive (often called "other than collision). Ask
> your agent to quote it with different deductibles so that you can decide
> which is the better buy. 

> As far as special equipment added, if it's just upgrades on things such
> as air filters, then you'd just want to be sure to keep a record of the
> improvements you've made to car in case of a future loss.  If you are
> actually adding things to the car which it didn't have before, then many
> companies allow you to pay extra to have special equipment covered.
> (But I personally don't think it's worth paying for the extra coverage.)
> For example, some people add extra equipment to fix up their pickup
> trucks to make them more sporty.

> Since insurance on your car will already be high, you probably don't
> want to have it go even higher by paying for extra equipment. 

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 14:13:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Symptoms of a bad O2 sensor?

Hi All,

Can someone tell me what are the symptoms of a bad o2
sensor??

Thanks,
George

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf!  It's FREE.
http://im.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 00:01:11 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Symptoms of a bad O2 sensor?

Overrich situation, crap idle, bad accelerating (due to the rich cond.)
check engine light.

Use a voltmeter to check them out, it's not a big deal :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

- -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: "George Kuo" <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
An: "Team3SI" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 18. Oktober 2000 23:13
Betreff: Team3S: Symptoms of a bad O2 sensor?


> Hi All,
>
> Can someone tell me what are the symptoms of a bad o2
> sensor??
>
> Thanks,
> George



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 16:38:36 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Team3S: San Diego Gathering This Weekend

Please see http://www7.50megs.com/w3sa/sandiego.html for information on the San
Diego Gathering this Sunday.  The web page will be updated shortly.

We will be meeting for breakfast Sunday morning at 8:00 AM at JR's Restaurant at
2565 Clairmont Dr. in San Diego, just east of the I-5 freeway.  There will be a
map when the web page is updated.  Folks still needing a Car Corral pass can see
me at breakfast, or just come by the Car Corral throughout the day and I'll give
you one then.

I'm looking forward to meeting everyone...

Ken

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 21:26:38 EDT
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ring gear needs replacing?

In a message dated 10/17/00 7:09:33 PM EST, brian.j.geddes@intel.com writes:

<< All -
 
 I wrote a week ago about my engine lockup, which ended up being caused by
 piece of the clutch throwout bearing being caught in the starter.
  >>

I have a new throwout bearing in my '91 VR4 that squeaks like hell - worse
than the last one did. Did you have any signs of pending throwout bearing
failure prior to your engine lockup?


Thanks,

Paul Klusman

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 01:36:36 GMT
From: "Greg Gonzales" <greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Please help with clutch advice.

Last week after I took my car in to get the tires rotated and balanced after
they were done my shifting started acting strange.
I saw the tech drive the car in and out and didnt notice him doing anything
to my car.
I have been driving it and noticed that my clutch was getting a bit lower
and the shifting from 1st to 2nd is very notchy, I could shift but would
have to wait for the motor to wind down and then it would go in. Sometimes
there is a thud. and 2nd to 3rd is notchy as well. 3rd to 4 goes ok but
sometimes sticks 4-5 goes fine. I decided to look at the clutch adjustment
and saw that there was a small bit of fluid on the clutch booster. I wiped
it two days ago and havent seen any new fluid. I checked the clutch fluid
level and it is still full.
So.....
Ive held off on the master cylinder replacement on my 92 RT TT. since I
didnt know if that is the problem.
I went through a couple of the tests in the manual to test to clutch
booster(where I first spotted fluid). And it seemed to be ok so I dont think
it is the booster. I also regained some of my clutch since I was required to
pump it a few times.
This is where I am at.
Advice????
Thanks
Greg G
92 RT TT
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 19:24:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheel spacers

I wouldnt add more than 1/2" per side...you'll need monster mud/rock flaps
to protect the doors after that.

On Tue, 17 Oct 2000, Jim Berry wrote:

> I'm going to be buying new tires for my 93 TT, at the same time I
> thought I'd give the wheel spacers a try to see if I can improve
> track handling.
>
> I'm looking at spacers from H&R [ see below ], the problem is,
> what size ???  They have 15mm and 25mm, or about 5/8" and
> 1" ---- I recall Geoff Mohler, recommending 3/4" for track use.
> He also implied that the more the better, so do I use 5/8" or 1" ???
> http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/
>
> I'm looking at using 275 - 40 - 17 Yoko A032R which may cause a
> clearance problem with the 1" spacers. I can visualize my tires sticking
> out about 1½" past the fender.
>
>            Jim Berry
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
|    The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to   |
|   strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible  |
|            within the cavity of the car itself.           |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 19:25:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheel spacers

I also had no rubbing issues in front, just in back.

I actually spaced EVERY wheel out 1/2", then added 3/4" to each front
tire.

On Tue, 17 Oct 2000, Jim Berry wrote:

> I'm going to be buying new tires for my 93 TT, at the same time I
> thought I'd give the wheel spacers a try to see if I can improve
> track handling.
>
> I'm looking at spacers from H&R [ see below ], the problem is,
> what size ???  They have 15mm and 25mm, or about 5/8" and
> 1" ---- I recall Geoff Mohler, recommending 3/4" for track use.
> He also implied that the more the better, so do I use 5/8" or 1" ???
> http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/
>
> I'm looking at using 275 - 40 - 17 Yoko A032R which may cause a
> clearance problem with the 1" spacers. I can visualize my tires sticking
> out about 1½" past the fender.
>
>            Jim Berry
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
|    The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to   |
|   strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible  |
|            within the cavity of the car itself.           |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 21:22:26 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheel spacers

Geoff
wait a minute here ---- you just said I should limit the spacer to ½" and
then you said you have ½" plus ¾" [ 1¼" if my calculator is correct ].
Why do I only get to use a ½" spacer   :-(.

Also, what tire size do you use ?????????

       Jim Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>

I also had no rubbing issues in front, just in back.

I actually spaced EVERY wheel out 1/2", then added 3/4" to each front
tire.



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 22:13:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheel spacers

Yes...I mis spoke on one thing.

My WHEEL offset sits 1/2" outside what stock is, to that I added 1/2"
spacers to the front.

Sorry.

The extra offset is by design as well.

The wheels are 17x10s with 275 Kumho's all round.

On Wed, 18 Oct 2000, Jim Berry wrote:

> Geoff
> wait a minute here ---- you just said I should limit the spacer to ½" and
> then you said you have ½" plus ¾" [ 1¼" if my calculator is correct ].
> Why do I only get to use a ½" spacer   :-(.
>
> Also, what tire size do you use ?????????
>
>        Jim Berry
> ===============================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
>
> I also had no rubbing issues in front, just in back.
>
> I actually spaced EVERY wheel out 1/2", then added 3/4" to each front
> tire.
>
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
|    The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to   |
|   strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible  |
|            within the cavity of the car itself.           |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 01:29:15 EDT
From: Sportsmobile101@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Simple stereo question?

    Does anyone know if the radio/cassette stereo from a 93 3000Gt will fit a
92, and since it has the cd controls, will those work with the cd player from
a 92? Thanx in advance.

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:15:22 +0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Car Insurance?

Admin note..

Insurance questions are considered off topic and has nothing to do on the Team3S list.

Team3S is an international list and questions regarding insurance etc are extremely uninteresting for the rest of the world outside US.

If you want to know why different insurances cost differently then ask the ones that set the price, not us.

If you still want to ask a question that are of a non technical nature then the mail shall be labeled as "off topic" in the Subject line and all further discussions shall be "off line".

If you have any questions regarding our rules then please read this document.
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm

Best regards,
Mikael Kenson /Team3S Admin


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "marc augellli" <marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 8:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Car Insurance?


> Hi Everyone,
>
> Does anybody know how far back car insurance company go back to check your
> record?  I think it's three year but not sure?  Also can anybody explain why
> a 98 vr4 cost more to insure then a 98 Supra Turbo?  The Supra is almost
> 100.00 dollars less then a VR4.  I was told a while ago that a rear wheel
> drive car cost more to insure then a front wheel drive car.  I know the VR4
> is 4-wheel drive, just seems that a Supra turbo would be more then a VR4.
>
> Thanks,
> Marc 94 SL



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 06:05:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Please help with clutch advice.

Greg,

You might just try bleeding the lines (cost is $2.50 for a can of
fluid) to see if that helps. Complete instructions can be found from
the Garage Page at my web site. The hardest part is lifting the
battery out. :)

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
  --> http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Gonzales" <greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 7:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: Please help with clutch advice.


Last week after I took my car in to get the tires rotated and
balanced after they were done my shifting started acting strange.
I saw the tech drive the car in and out and didnt notice him doing
anything to my car. I have been driving it and noticed that my clutch
was getting a bit lower and the shifting from 1st to 2nd is very
notchy, I could shift but would have to wait for the motor to wind
down and then it would go in. Sometimes there is a thud. and 2nd to
3rd is notchy as well. 3rd to 4 goes ok but sometimes sticks 4-5 goes
fine. I decided to look at the clutch adjustment and saw that there
was a small bit of fluid on the clutch booster. I wiped it two days
ago and havent seen any new fluid. I checked the clutch fluid level
and it is still full.
So.....
Ive held off on the master cylinder replacement on my 92 RT TT. since
I didnt know if that is the problem. I went through a couple of the
tests in the manual to test to clutch booster(where I first spotted
fluid). And it seemed to be ok so I dont think it is the booster. I
also regained some of my clutch since I was required to pump it a few
times. This is where I am at.
Advice????
Thanks
Greg G
92 RT TT


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf!  It's FREE.
http://im.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 08:50:32 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheel spacers

Geoff

Thanks for the additional information ----

Bottom line then is --- 1" is OK as long as I don't mind it looking like
a monster truck  :-)

Seems like the proper solution is to adjust the track by getting the
proper offset when I buy my new wheels [ Are you still sold on the CCW's ].
Reducing the offset to 20mm should move the centerline of the rim out 1".




- ----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>

Yes...I mis spoke on one thing.

My WHEEL offset sits 1/2" outside what stock is, to that I added 1/2"
spacers to the front.

Sorry.

The extra offset is by design as well.

The wheels are 17x10s with 275 Kumho's all round.

On Wed, 18 Oct 2000, Jim Berry wrote:

> Geoff
> wait a minute here ---- you just said I should limit the spacer to ½" and
> then you said you have ½" plus ¾" [ 1¼" if my calculator is correct ].
> Why do I only get to use a ½" spacer   :-(.
>
> Also, what tire size do you use ?????????
>
>        Jim Berry
> ===============================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
>
> I also had no rubbing issues in front, just in back.
>
> I actually spaced EVERY wheel out 1/2", then added 3/4" to each front
> tire.
>
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
|    The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to   |
|   strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible  |
|            within the cavity of the car itself.           |
- -------------------------------------------------------------



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:10:33 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Please help with clutch advice.

Hi Greg,

I too experience similar symptoms in my '91 VR4.  It sometimes feels like the
clutch doesn't completely disengage when the pedal is pushed to the floor.  It
feels like the clutch drags slightly, thus a shift will cause a thud.  Also, the
problem seems to be worse in colder weather, and almost disappeared in summer.
I've replaced the clutch master & slave cylinders and still have the problem.  I
speculate that the culprit could be a degrading clutch booster, or a well worn
clutch (I have 70K on clutch).  First, I will replace the synthetic fluid I'm
using with Ford heavy duty fluid that others rave about.  Someone told me that
synthetic fluid is prone to absorbing water more quickly than regular fluid.


Good luck,
Ken

>
> Last week after I took my car in to get the tires rotated and balanced after
> they were done my shifting started acting strange.
> I saw the tech drive the car in and out and didnt notice him doing anything
> to my car.
> I have been driving it and noticed that my clutch was getting a bit lower
> and the shifting from 1st to 2nd is very notchy, I could shift but would
> have to wait for the motor to wind down and then it would go in. Sometimes
> there is a thud. and 2nd to 3rd is notchy as well. 3rd to 4 goes ok but
> sometimes sticks 4-5 goes fine. I decided to look at the clutch adjustment
> and saw that there was a small bit of fluid on the clutch booster. I wiped
> it two days ago and havent seen any new fluid. I checked the clutch fluid
> level and it is still full.
> So.....
> Ive held off on the master cylinder replacement on my 92 RT TT. since I
> didnt know if that is the problem.
> I went through a couple of the tests in the manual to test to clutch
> booster(where I first spotted fluid). And it seemed to be ok so I dont think
> it is the booster. I also regained some of my clutch since I was required to
> pump it a few times.
> This is where I am at.
> Advice????

- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:16:49 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheel spacers

> Seems like the proper solution is to adjust the track by getting the
> proper offset when I buy my new wheels [ Are you still sold on the CCW's ].
> Reducing the offset to 20mm should move the centerline of the rim out 1".

If you get four wheels with the same offset, you will still have the front track
width narrower than the front.  To increase the front track width, you will have
to space out the front, either with adapters, spacers, or a 2 piece rotor with
an extra thick hat.  The 15mm H&R kit is looking real good...
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:33:37 -0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S: anyone know who this is?

http://www.importculture.com/shows/battle9.2.00/images/cars108.jpg

- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 10:05:33 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheel spacers

Hmmmm -- yeah I was just thinking about the front axle. If I get the CCW's
I can get almost any offset I want, so I could have different offset in the front.
That would, of course, cause some headaches when rotating tires etc. but,
I see quite a few folks have different size tires/rims on the back.

The rotor would work also but I think the additional unsprung weight would
be a negative factor. Changes in offset don't add weight.

Let me know if you hear back from H&R.

         Jim Berry

P.S.    I'm seriously considering going up to Laguna Seca to an open track
          event in mid December ---- anybody interested.

==============================================


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>; Team3S <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>

>
> > Seems like the proper solution is to adjust the track by getting the
> > proper offset when I buy my new wheels [ Are you still sold on the CCW's ].
> > Reducing the offset to 20mm should move the centerline of the rim out 1".
>
> If you get four wheels with the same offset, you will still have the front track
> width narrower than the front.  To increase the front track width, you will have
> to space out the front, either with adapters, spacers, or a 2 piece rotor with
> an extra thick hat.  The 15mm H&R kit is looking real good...
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 17:23:40 -0500
From: "Dale T. Kroetz" <kroetz@mvn.net>
Subject: Team3S: Door Speakers

Can someone tell me what size the door speakers are in a 92SL? Someone
else told me they were 5 1/4's so that's what I bought. Not even close!
Will Alpine 6 1/2's fit and wire up properly? There was some kind of
funky connector on them that would not have fit my 5 1/4 Alpines anyway.

- --



Dale T. Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #299
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