team3s
Thursday, October 19
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
299
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 18 Oct 2000 16:27:13 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV Valve question
The VR-4 and I assume the R/T TT comes
standard with a BOV (or more
precisely a turbocharger bypass valve) that
opens and allows the
backpressure to vent and not surge to the turbos.
It is not a BOV since it
really vents it back to the air intake path and is
not vented to the
atmosphere.
Benefits and drawbacks from
either. BOV vents metered and filtered air to
the atmosphere making the
engine filter and meter more air to use. A turbo
bypass valve (misnamed
BOV in our manuals) vents the air, which is going to
damage the turbos, and
routes it back into the intake path where it was
already filtered and metered
and just needs to be shoved past the throttle
plate.
This took me a
month to learn all the piping and where it actually is in the
engine and can
easier show you than explain it. Anyway, that should help.
You don't
need to spend any money on one because the car already has it
(even the Supra
TT has them I think). However, for fun, you can disconnect
the
connector pipe that makes the air venting thing and tape closed the
input
hole and turn the connector pipe upwards. This is your very own BOV
and
when shifting you will hear a "hisssssssss" as the air escapes. Shove
a
harmonica or whistle in there and it will hummmmmm or whistle when
you
shift. Perfect for the clown cars with turbo. If this were
the Supra with
sequential turbos maybe you can make two different
sounds. Kewl.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, G-Tech Pro, and a
custom spark
plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From:
aa2345@wayne.edu [
mailto:aa2345@wayne.edu]
Sent: Wednesday,
October 18, 2000 4:00 PM
To: Team 3S International
Cc:
aa2346@wayne.eduSubject: Team3S: BOV
Valve question
Hey gang,
I was reading on the internet about stuff
related to our cars. I ran
across some info on aftermarket BOV
valves. Here is a quote of what I
found. Can somebody please tell
me how necessary this is. Both me and my
brother upgraded our cars to
the APEXI AVC-R electronic boost controllers
and K&N FIPK. Am I
going to damage the turbos like it says in the
following
paragraph?
"A blow off valve is a very important upgrade when
upgrading your car.B
The function of a blow off valve is to relieve
compressor "surge" caused
when the throttle plate closes under boost.
The throttle plate closes as
you let off to slow down or shift.
If this happens while the air is
pressurized, then the air will be
forced back to the turbos, causing
surge. If repeated, this may
eventually cause damage to the
turbocharger. An additional benefit of a
blow off valve is quicker boost
recovery. By blowing off the unneeded air,
the turbo is able to recover
much quicker after a shift without having
to force back the initial
charge air.. We recommend and run this in our
cars!"
From what I read, this sounds as a good BOV. I want it to be
reliable,
good for future upgrades, and QUIET (as close to the stock BOV as
possible
before the mods).
GReddy Type-S Blow Off Valve
--> $299.00
" The Greddy Type-S blow off valve is a closed loop BOV
just like the
stock BOV with higher flow capacity and much stronger piston
spring for no
boost leaks. You will not experience you could have with a open
air BOV.
This kit includes an adapter not made by Greddy to make it possible
to
install on a 3000GT. We highly recommend this unit."
Thanks a lot
everyone.
- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
John
94 Pearl Yellow
TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:33:12
-0700
From: Morgan Holly <
morgan@popstudios.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?
It also help to live someplace other than
Los Angeles. When I moved
to NY the price went down to $2,400 for
100-300-100 coverage.
At 3:25 PM -0500 10/18/00, Walton C. Gibson
wrote:
>The state farm insurance rate for my '93 VR-4 is only $70 a month,
>and I'm 24. It helps having no previous accidents.
>
>They
said it would go down even further when I'm 25. I can't wait
for
>that!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
- --
___________________
Morgan Holly
Director of
Something
Cinram/POP DVD Center
Voice 310.899.7206
Fax
310.899.7230
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 16:32:25
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?
Here is what my aunt got for me from her
link to the insurance side. Might
not be a tech-question but it does
relate ... especially if we discuss what
upgrades are covered by
people. :-)
> I looked up the rating symbol and
> saw it
listed as "h25" which is a high performance car and a high
> symbol.
(The "average" cars have symbols of 10 or 12.) Because of the
> high
symbol, you'll probably find it advantageous to have a high
> deductible,
such as $1000 deductible on collision and $500 ded. (or
> maybe $1000) on
comprehensive (often called "other than collision). Ask
> your agent to
quote it with different deductibles so that you can decide
> which is the
better buy.
> As far as special equipment added, if it's just
upgrades on things such
> as air filters, then you'd just want to be sure
to keep a record of the
> improvements you've made to car in case of a
future loss. If you are
> actually adding things to the car which it
didn't have before, then many
> companies allow you to pay extra to have
special equipment covered.
> (But I personally don't think it's worth
paying for the extra coverage.)
> For example, some people add extra
equipment to fix up their pickup
> trucks to make them more sporty.
> Since insurance on your car will already be high, you probably
don't
> want to have it go even higher by paying for extra
equipment.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark
plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From: Morgan Holly [
mailto:morgan@popstudios.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, October 18, 2000 4:33 PM
To:
kalla@tripoint.org;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?
It also help to live someplace other than
Los Angeles. When I moved
to NY the price went down to $2,400 for
100-300-100 coverage.
At 3:25 PM -0500 10/18/00, Walton C. Gibson
wrote:
>The state farm insurance rate for my '93 VR-4 is only $70 a month,
>and I'm 24. It helps having no previous accidents.
>
>They
said it would go down even further when I'm 25. I can't wait
for
>that!
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 16:43:09
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?
From my Aunt ... agreed that this should be
off the list soon so if anyone
wants to follow this in more detail please
email me OFF THE LIST. Thanks.
-----Original Message-----
From:
Flash's Aunt
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 4:39 PM
Glad to try to
help with some answers...
Insurance companies definitely look at the last 3
years in
determining eligibility and surcharges but some of the preferred
companies
look at the past 5 years. For example, someone might be clear
for the past
3 years but have a drunk driving ticket 4 years ago; in that
case, he
wouldn't be eligible for the preferred company but could go in a
"risk"
company and be rated for zero points-since he's clear for the last 3
years.
In Wisconsin the info stays on your driving record with the
state
for at least 7 years; so I've heard that some companies (not any that
I
represent though) turn down potential clients if there's a
major
violation-such as drunk driving-in the past 7 years.
According to my
symbol guide, the 98 VR-4 is listed as "h
26" and the Supra as "h 24" so
that's why the VR-4 is more expensive to
insure. There are several
things that determine the symbol-it's not always
price...more often it's
based on how often certain cars are involved in
collisions, the cost to
repair certain models, and the availability of
parts. So indirectly the
fact that the VR-4 is no longer produced would
figure in to the availability
of parts and thus the higher symbol.
That's also why vehicles such as
American-made vans, such as
the Dodge Caravan (symbol 4 or 5) or Plymouth
Voyager (symbol 4 or 5) are so
much less for insurance-there are so many of
them so both new and used parts
are less plus vans tend to be driven by
families and are usually driven at a
slower rate of speed since there are
children aboard and if there is an
accident with a van, it usually isn't as
serious as far as property damage.
Let me know if you need any further
clarification.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark
plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From: Schilberg, Darren [
mailto:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, October 18, 2000 4:32 PM
To: 'Morgan Holly';
kalla@tripoint.org;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?
Here is what my aunt got for me from her
link to the insurance side. Might
not be a tech-question but it does
relate ... especially if we discuss what
upgrades are covered by
people. :-)
> I looked up the rating symbol and
> saw it
listed as "h25" which is a high performance car and a high
> symbol.
(The "average" cars have symbols of 10 or 12.) Because of the
> high
symbol, you'll probably find it advantageous to have a high
> deductible,
such as $1000 deductible on collision and $500 ded. (or
> maybe $1000) on
comprehensive (often called "other than collision). Ask
> your agent to
quote it with different deductibles so that you can decide
> which is the
better buy.
> As far as special equipment added, if it's just
upgrades on things such
> as air filters, then you'd just want to be sure
to keep a record of the
> improvements you've made to car in case of a
future loss. If you are
> actually adding things to the car which it
didn't have before, then many
> companies allow you to pay extra to have
special equipment covered.
> (But I personally don't think it's worth
paying for the extra coverage.)
> For example, some people add extra
equipment to fix up their pickup
> trucks to make them more sporty.
> Since insurance on your car will already be high, you probably
don't
> want to have it go even higher by paying for extra
equipment.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark
plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 14:13:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Symptoms of a bad O2 sensor?
Hi All,
Can someone tell me
what are the symptoms of a bad
o2
sensor??
Thanks,
George
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 00:01:11
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Symptoms of a bad O2 sensor?
Overrich situation, crap idle,
bad accelerating (due to the rich cond.)
check engine light.
Use a
voltmeter to check them out, it's not a big deal :)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch- -----Ursprüngliche
Nachricht-----
Von: "George Kuo" <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
An: "Team3SI"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Gesendet:
Mittwoch, 18. Oktober 2000 23:13
Betreff: Team3S: Symptoms of a bad O2
sensor?
> Hi All,
>
> Can someone tell me what are the
symptoms of a bad o2
> sensor??
>
> Thanks,
>
George
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 16:38:36
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: San Diego Gathering This Weekend
Please see
http://www7.50megs.com/w3sa/sandiego.html
for information on the San
Diego Gathering this Sunday. The web page
will be updated shortly.
We will be meeting for breakfast Sunday morning
at 8:00 AM at JR's Restaurant at
2565 Clairmont Dr. in San Diego, just east
of the I-5 freeway. There will be a
map when the web page is
updated. Folks still needing a Car Corral pass can see
me at breakfast,
or just come by the Car Corral throughout the day and I'll give
you one
then.
I'm looking forward to meeting
everyone...
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 21:26:38
EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Ring gear needs replacing?
In a message dated 10/17/00
7:09:33 PM EST,
brian.j.geddes@intel.com
writes:
<< All -
I wrote a week ago about my
engine lockup, which ended up being caused by
piece of the clutch
throwout bearing being caught in the starter.
>>
I have
a new throwout bearing in my '91 VR4 that squeaks like hell - worse
than the
last one did. Did you have any signs of pending throwout bearing
failure
prior to your engine lockup?
Thanks,
Paul
Klusman
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 01:36:36
GMT
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Please help with clutch advice.
Last week after I took my car in
to get the tires rotated and balanced after
they were done my shifting
started acting strange.
I saw the tech drive the car in and out and didnt
notice him doing anything
to my car.
I have been driving it and noticed
that my clutch was getting a bit lower
and the shifting from 1st to 2nd is
very notchy, I could shift but would
have to wait for the motor to wind down
and then it would go in. Sometimes
there is a thud. and 2nd to 3rd is notchy
as well. 3rd to 4 goes ok but
sometimes sticks 4-5 goes fine. I decided to
look at the clutch adjustment
and saw that there was a small bit of fluid on
the clutch booster. I wiped
it two days ago and havent seen any new fluid. I
checked the clutch fluid
level and it is still full.
So.....
Ive held
off on the master cylinder replacement on my 92 RT TT. since I
didnt know if
that is the problem.
I went through a couple of the tests in the manual to
test to clutch
booster(where I first spotted fluid). And it seemed to be ok
so I dont think
it is the booster. I also regained some of my clutch since I
was required to
pump it a few times.
This is where I am
at.
Advice????
Thanks
Greg G
92 RT
TT
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 19:24:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheel spacers
I wouldnt add more than 1/2" per side...you'll
need monster mud/rock flaps
to protect the doors after that.
On Tue,
17 Oct 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
> I'm going to be buying new tires for
my 93 TT, at the same time I
> thought I'd give the wheel spacers a try to
see if I can improve
> track handling.
>
> I'm looking at
spacers from H&R [ see below ], the problem is,
> what size ???
They have 15mm and 25mm, or about 5/8" and
> 1" ---- I recall Geoff
Mohler, recommending 3/4" for track use.
> He also implied that the more
the better, so do I use 5/8" or 1" ???
>
http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/>
> I'm looking at using 275 - 40 - 17 Yoko A032R which may cause a
>
clearance problem with the 1" spacers. I can visualize my tires sticking
>
out about 1½" past the fender.
>
> Jim
Berry
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 19:25:43
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheel spacers
I also had no rubbing issues in front, just in
back.
I actually spaced EVERY wheel out 1/2", then added 3/4" to each
front
tire.
On Tue, 17 Oct 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
> I'm
going to be buying new tires for my 93 TT, at the same time I
> thought
I'd give the wheel spacers a try to see if I can improve
> track
handling.
>
> I'm looking at spacers from H&R [ see below ],
the problem is,
> what size ??? They have 15mm and 25mm, or about
5/8" and
> 1" ---- I recall Geoff Mohler, recommending 3/4" for track
use.
> He also implied that the more the better, so do I use 5/8" or 1"
???
>
http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/>
> I'm looking at using 275 - 40 - 17 Yoko A032R which may cause a
>
clearance problem with the 1" spacers. I can visualize my tires sticking
>
out about 1½" past the fender.
>
> Jim
Berry
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 21:22:26
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
wheel spacers
Geoff
wait a minute here ---- you just said I should
limit the spacer to ½" and
then you said you have ½" plus ¾" [ 1¼" if my
calculator is correct ].
Why do I only get to use a ½" spacer
:-(.
Also, what tire size do you use
?????????
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
I also had no
rubbing issues in front, just in back.
I actually spaced EVERY wheel out
1/2", then added 3/4" to each front
tire.
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 22:13:42
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheel spacers
Yes...I mis spoke on one thing.
My WHEEL
offset sits 1/2" outside what stock is, to that I added 1/2"
spacers to the
front.
Sorry.
The extra offset is by design as well.
The
wheels are 17x10s with 275 Kumho's all round.
On Wed, 18 Oct 2000, Jim
Berry wrote:
> Geoff
> wait a minute here ---- you just said I
should limit the spacer to ½" and
> then you said you have ½" plus ¾" [
1¼" if my calculator is correct ].
> Why do I only get to use a ½"
spacer :-(.
>
> Also, what tire size do you use
?????????
>
> Jim
Berry
> ===============================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
>
> I also
had no rubbing issues in front, just in back.
>
> I actually spaced
EVERY wheel out 1/2", then added 3/4" to each front
> tire.
>
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 01:29:15
EDT
From:
Sportsmobile101@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Simple stereo question?
Does anyone know if
the radio/cassette stereo from a 93 3000Gt will fit a
92, and since it has
the cd controls, will those work with the cd player from
a 92? Thanx in
advance.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:15:22
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Car
Insurance?
Admin note..
Insurance questions are considered off
topic and has nothing to do on the Team3S list.
Team3S is an
international list and questions regarding insurance etc are extremely
uninteresting for the rest of the world outside US.
If you want to know
why different insurances cost differently then ask the ones that set the price,
not us.
If you still want to ask a question that are of a non technical
nature then the mail shall be labeled as "off topic" in the Subject line and all
further discussions shall be "off line".
If you have any questions
regarding our rules then please read this document.
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htmBest
regards,
Mikael Kenson /Team3S Admin
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 18, 2000 8:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Car
Insurance?
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Does anybody know how
far back car insurance company go back to check your
> record? I
think it's three year but not sure? Also can anybody explain why
>
a 98 vr4 cost more to insure then a 98 Supra Turbo? The Supra is almost
> 100.00 dollars less then a VR4. I was told a while ago that a
rear wheel
> drive car cost more to insure then a front wheel drive
car. I know the VR4
> is 4-wheel drive, just seems that a Supra
turbo would be more then a VR4.
>
> Thanks,
> Marc 94
SL
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 06:05:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please help with clutch advice.
Greg,
You might just
try bleeding the lines (cost is $2.50 for a can of
fluid) to see if that
helps. Complete instructions can be found from
the Garage Page at my web
site. The hardest part is lifting the
battery out. :)
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 18, 2000 7:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: Please help with clutch
advice.
Last week after I took my car in to get the tires rotated
and
balanced after they were done my shifting started acting strange.
I
saw the tech drive the car in and out and didnt notice him doing
anything to
my car. I have been driving it and noticed that my clutch
was getting a bit
lower and the shifting from 1st to 2nd is very
notchy, I could shift but
would have to wait for the motor to wind
down and then it would go in.
Sometimes there is a thud. and 2nd to
3rd is notchy as well. 3rd to 4 goes ok
but sometimes sticks 4-5 goes
fine. I decided to look at the clutch
adjustment and saw that there
was a small bit of fluid on the clutch booster.
I wiped it two days
ago and havent seen any new fluid. I checked the clutch
fluid level
and it is still full.
So.....
Ive held off on the master
cylinder replacement on my 92 RT TT. since
I didnt know if that is the
problem. I went through a couple of the
tests in the manual to test to clutch
booster(where I first spotted
fluid). And it seemed to be ok so I dont think
it is the booster. I
also regained some of my clutch since I was required to
pump it a few
times. This is where I am at.
Advice????
Thanks
Greg
G
92 RT
TT
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Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 08:50:32
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
wheel spacers
Geoff
Thanks for the additional information
----
Bottom line then is --- 1" is OK as long as I don't mind it looking
like
a monster truck :-)
Seems like the proper solution is to
adjust the track by getting the
proper offset when I buy my new wheels [ Are
you still sold on the CCW's ].
Reducing the offset to 20mm should move the
centerline of the rim out 1".
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
Yes...I mis spoke
on one thing.
My WHEEL offset sits 1/2" outside what stock is, to that I
added 1/2"
spacers to the front.
Sorry.
The extra offset is by
design as well.
The wheels are 17x10s with 275 Kumho's all
round.
On Wed, 18 Oct 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
> Geoff
>
wait a minute here ---- you just said I should limit the spacer to ½"
and
> then you said you have ½" plus ¾" [ 1¼" if my calculator is correct
].
> Why do I only get to use a ½" spacer :-(.
>
>
Also, what tire size do you use
?????????
>
> Jim
Berry
> ===============================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
>
> I also
had no rubbing issues in front, just in back.
>
> I actually spaced
EVERY wheel out 1/2", then added 3/4" to each front
>
tire.
>
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:10:33
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please help with clutch advice.
Hi Greg,
I too
experience similar symptoms in my '91 VR4. It sometimes feels like
the
clutch doesn't completely disengage when the pedal is pushed to the
floor. It
feels like the clutch drags slightly, thus a shift will cause
a thud. Also, the
problem seems to be worse in colder weather, and
almost disappeared in summer.
I've replaced the clutch master & slave
cylinders and still have the problem. I
speculate that the culprit
could be a degrading clutch booster, or a well worn
clutch (I have 70K on
clutch). First, I will replace the synthetic fluid I'm
using with Ford
heavy duty fluid that others rave about. Someone told me that
synthetic
fluid is prone to absorbing water more quickly than regular
fluid.
Good luck,
Ken
>
> Last week after I took
my car in to get the tires rotated and balanced after
> they were done my
shifting started acting strange.
> I saw the tech drive the car in and out
and didnt notice him doing anything
> to my car.
> I have been
driving it and noticed that my clutch was getting a bit lower
> and the
shifting from 1st to 2nd is very notchy, I could shift but would
> have to
wait for the motor to wind down and then it would go in. Sometimes
> there
is a thud. and 2nd to 3rd is notchy as well. 3rd to 4 goes ok but
>
sometimes sticks 4-5 goes fine. I decided to look at the clutch
adjustment
> and saw that there was a small bit of fluid on the clutch
booster. I wiped
> it two days ago and havent seen any new fluid. I
checked the clutch fluid
> level and it is still full.
>
So.....
> Ive held off on the master cylinder replacement on my 92 RT TT.
since I
> didnt know if that is the problem.
> I went through a
couple of the tests in the manual to test to clutch
> booster(where I
first spotted fluid). And it seemed to be ok so I dont think
> it is the
booster. I also regained some of my clutch since I was required to
> pump
it a few times.
> This is where I am at.
> Advice????
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:16:49
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheel spacers
> Seems like the proper solution is to
adjust the track by getting the
> proper offset when I buy my new wheels [
Are you still sold on the CCW's ].
> Reducing the offset to 20mm should
move the centerline of the rim out 1".
If you get four wheels with the
same offset, you will still have the front track
width narrower than the
front. To increase the front track width, you will have
to space out
the front, either with adapters, spacers, or a 2 piece rotor with
an extra
thick hat. The 15mm H&R kit is looking real good...
- --
If you
lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:33:37
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S:
anyone know who this is?
http://www.importculture.com/shows/battle9.2.00/images/cars108.jpg-
-Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart.kurek@eli.net***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 10:05:33
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
wheel spacers
Hmmmm -- yeah I was just thinking about the front axle. If
I get the CCW's
I can get almost any offset I want, so I could have different
offset in the front.
That would, of course, cause some headaches when
rotating tires etc. but,
I see quite a few folks have different size
tires/rims on the back.
The rotor would work also but I think the
additional unsprung weight would
be a negative factor. Changes in offset
don't add weight.
Let me know if you hear back from
H&R.
Jim
Berry
P.S. I'm seriously considering going up to Laguna
Seca to an open track
event in mid December ---- anybody
interested.
==============================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>; Team3S
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > Seems like the proper solution is to adjust the track by getting
the
> > proper offset when I buy my new wheels [ Are you still sold on
the CCW's ].
> > Reducing the offset to 20mm should move the centerline
of the rim out 1".
>
> If you get four wheels with the same offset,
you will still have the front track
> width narrower than the front.
To increase the front track width, you will have
> to space out the front,
either with adapters, spacers, or a 2 piece rotor with
> an extra thick
hat. The 15mm H&R kit is looking real good...
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 17:23:40
-0500
From: "Dale T. Kroetz" <
kroetz@mvn.net>
Subject: Team3S: Door
Speakers
Can someone tell me what size the door speakers are in a 92SL?
Someone
else told me they were 5 1/4's so that's what I bought. Not even
close!
Will Alpine 6 1/2's fit and wire up properly? There was some kind
of
funky connector on them that would not have fit my 5 1/4 Alpines
anyway.
- --
Dale T. Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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End of team3s V1
#299
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