team3s
Wednesday, October 18
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
298
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 17 Oct 2000 17:07:20 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ring gear needs replacing?
All -
I wrote a week ago about
my engine lockup, which ended up being caused by
piece of the clutch throwout
bearing being caught in the starter. The
latest update from the
dealership is that my ring gear needs replacing,
along with three pins that
hold it in place. The initial diagnosis was for
a new clutch, starter
and flywheel, but they said that while putting in the
new clutch they saw
that the ring gear was chewed up. No additional labor,
but $140 for
parts.
Am I being taken here with the ring gear? I thought it was a
part of the
flywheel...but maybe not?
Thanks,
-
-Brian
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:59:39
-0400
From: "Steve Sullivan" <
Sully@carolina.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Source for discount parts
I need to order all my parts for 60K
service. Is Tall Mitsu still offering
discounted parts?? Anyone
know of another place to get the stuff cheap??.
Thanks in
advance
Steve
94 VR-4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 18:28:57
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Supercharging
There's a great Primer about turbos, "Turbo
Basics", on our website (by
Roger Gerl). Check it out at:
www.Team3S.com/FAQturbobasics.htmBest,
Forrest
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Jeff Lucius'" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:56 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Supercharging
> I am learning so much I think my head will
explode!
>
> I was under the apparently false impression that the
turbos could only
> tolerate a finite amount of back pressure, and that
aftermarket turbos
with
> higher output could withstand higher amounts
of back pressure. Thanks for
> correcting my
wrong-thinking!
>
> Chuck
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Jeff Lucius [
SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
> Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 4:48 PM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: Supercharging
> >
> > In response to why
"we limit boost":
> >
> > 1) "blowing out the turbo": False
(though I'm not sure that I
> > understand that expression). Turbos are
built to withstand a certain
> > rotational speed of the center shaft.
The actual boost values are a
> > function of engine displacement and
RPM, compressor air flow, and
> > turbo center shaft rotation speed (or
exhaust air flow). On the VR4
> > we limit boost to limit detonation in
the cylinders. On my particular
> > setup, my wastegates never open! I
run at the maximum boost the air
> > pressure here at 5000-6000 feet
will support - up to 1.25 kg/cm2. I
> > monitor detonation with the TMO
datlogger
> >
> > 2) "run out of fuel": Correct. True only for
the stock fuel setup. In
> > fact fuel starts to "run out" before or
after 15 psi depending on
> > other mods and air
pressure/density.
> >
> > The real reason boost is limited to
8 psi or less for turbocharging
> > or supercharging is when there is
no intercooler to cool the heated,
> > compressed air and reduce the
tendency for detonation. My turbo
> > outlet temp calculator is
available at:
> >
> >
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-turbotemp.htm>
>
> > If air inlet temp is 80ºF and ambient pressure is 14 psi, if
boost is
> > 4 psi then turbo outlet temp (70% efficiency) is 137ºF. At
8 psi,
> > temp is 185ºF; at 12 psi temp is 228ºF; at 15 psi temp is
257ºF.
> >
> > The difference with superchargers, is that the
efficiency is often
> > much less than for turbochargers, that is,
around 50% instead of 70%,
> > and the air is heated up even more. In
the above case at 8 psi with
> > 50% eff. the outlet air would be
227ºF.
> >
> > For more a more technical discussion, please
check out my short note
> > at:
> >
> >
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-adiabat1.htm>
>
> > Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
> > -->
http://www.stealth316.com/>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Willis,
Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
> To: "'John Stegall III'" <
jstegall@programmer.net>;
"3STeam"
> > <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 1:55 PM
> > Subject: RE: Team3S:
Supercharging
> >
> > Why should you limit supercharger boost
to 8 pis when the stock boost
> > for 1st generation was 9 psi and the
stock boost for 2nd generation
> > was 11 psi boost? In the turbo
world, we limit boost 1) to prevent
> > blowing out the turbos and 2)
because we run out of fuel somewhere
> > above 15 psi boost, unless we
get superduper fuel pumps and
> > injectors.
> >
> >
Please help me understand the difference with supercharger
> >
overpressure.
> >
> > Chuck
> > Inquiring minds want
to know.
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > Of
course you shouldn't go above 8 psi on a stock car (time to
> >
rebuild
> > > that engine!)
> >
> >
> >
__________________________________________________
> > Do You
Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's
FREE.
> >
http://im.yahoo.com/> >
> >
*** Info:
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>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:59:11
EDT
From:
TurboDrvn@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Source for discount parts
Hey there Steve,
Yes, Tallahassee
Mitsubishi still provides our list members a considerable
discount.
Sean or Jeremy should be able help you out. Their
toll free # is:
1-888-825-5648
Good luck,
Ahmed
"AL-Crazy"
In a message dated 10/17/00 8:03:16 PM Central Daylight Time,
Sully@carolina.rr.com
writes:
<< I need to order all my parts for 60K service. Is
Tall Mitsu still offering
discounted parts?? Anyone know of
another place to get the stuff cheap??.
Thanks in
advance
Steve
94 VR-4
>>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 23:12:58
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Source for discount parts
Try talking to John at Conicelli
Mitsubishi - $445 for pump, timing belt,
pulleys, acc belts, plugs, wires,
thermostat, and fuel filter, and plenum
gasket.
His number is
1-610-272-7711
He's located in Central/Southern PA
Ken Stanton
'91
Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
Steve Sullivan
wrote:
> I need to order all my parts for 60K service. Is Tall
Mitsu still offering
> discounted parts?? Anyone know of another
place to get the stuff cheap??.
> Thanks in advance
>
>
Steve
> 94 VR-4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 00:04:20
EDT
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3si Discount
Does Dynamic Racing offer a discount to 3si
members? Along the same lines
where is the best place to buy(cheapest)
Redline fluids?
Thanks,
Michael D.
Crose
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:18:19
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
wheel spacers
I'm going to be buying new tires for my 93 TT, at the same
time I
thought I'd give the wheel spacers a try to see if I can
improve
track handling.
I'm looking at spacers from H&R [ see
below ], the problem is,
what size ??? They have 15mm and 25mm, or
about 5/8" and
1" ---- I recall Geoff Mohler, recommending 3/4" for track
use.
He also implied that the more the better, so do I use 5/8" or 1"
???
http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/I'm
looking at using 275 - 40 - 17 Yoko A032R which may cause a
clearance problem
with the 1" spacers. I can visualize my tires sticking
out about 1½" past the
fender.
Jim
Berry
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 03:03:29
-0200
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Altenator and answers needed...
The alternator on my 94 VR4 went South so
I need a replacement. I've heard that
the 1st Gen VR4s had stronger
alternators. Is this true? Will a 1st Gen
alternator bolt in
place of a 2nd Gen? Anyone selling
either?
thanks,
Jason
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 06:02:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Source for discount parts
The Garage and Links pages at my
website list the commonly used
dealerships (including Tall Mitsu) that offer
discounts plus just
about everybody that carries aftermarket parts for our
cars.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sullivan" <
Sully@carolina.rr.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: Source for discount
parts
I need to order all my parts for 60K service. Is Tall Mitsu
still
offering discounted parts?? Anyone know of another place to get
the
stuff cheap??.
Thanks in advance
Steve
94
VR-4
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 06:44:03
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mass air flow sensor
Hi Michael,
Did you take the MAS
off the intake hose so that you could secure the
bolt from turning inside the
air box cover? For turbo cars, the
Y-pipe may have to come off first. There
is only a hose clamp holding
the MAS to the intake hose. The link below is to
a picture that shows
what you're up against if you have not taken the MAS off
the intake
hose yet.
http://www.3si.org/upload/mas-af.jpgJeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
Shivy13@aol.com>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 17, 2000 1:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: Mass air flow
sensor
I was wondering how much a new MAS would cost
me? Or any secrets
on how to get the MAS off of the top part of the
stock air box. The
nuts just keep turning and won't come off at
all. Any help would be
great.
Thanks!!
Michael
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 07:30:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Altenator and answers needed...
Jason,
The extremely
handy Manuals on CD provide the following alternator
output info:
up
to 1995: 110 VA (1991 manual lists this also)
from 1996: 95
VA
Wouldn't it be cheapest to just take the alternator off and have
a
local shop rebuild it? Maybe they could even increase the output
for
you. :)
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jason Barnhart" <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Cc: "3STeam" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 17, 2000 11:03 PM
Subject: Team3S: Altenator and answers
needed...
The alternator on my 94 VR4 went South so I need a
replacement. I've
heard that the 1st Gen VR4s had stronger
alternators. Is this true?
Will a 1st Gen alternator bolt in place of
a 2nd Gen? Anyone
selling
either?
thanks,
Jason
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 09:06:06
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheel spacers
> I'm going to be buying new tires
for my 93 TT, at the same time I
> thought I'd give the wheel spacers a
try to see if I can improve
> track handling.
>
> I'm looking
at spacers from H&R [ see below ], the problem is,
> what size
??? They have 15mm and 25mm, or about 5/8" and
> 1" ---- I recall
Geoff Mohler, recommending 3/4" for track use.
> He also implied that the
more the better, so do I use 5/8" or 1" ???
>
http://www.nascarplace.com/hrspacers/The
15mm is a spacer kit with longer studs. The 25mm and wider are
adapters. I
sent them an email last week to ask a bunch of questions,
including if they can
make a spacer at 20mm ~= 3/4" for our cars, and if
either the adapters or
spacers have a strength advantage over the
other. I'll let you know what I find
out if they ever
respond.
> I'm looking at using 275 - 40 - 17 Yoko A032R which may
cause a
> clearance problem with the 1" spacers. I can visualize my tires
sticking
> out about 1½" past the fender.
I think either spacing
will cause the tire to stick out beyond the fender. This
shouldn't be a
problem though unless you've lowered the car a lot. Check with
Geoff to
see what size tires, what size & offset wheels, and what springs he
was
using with the 3/4 spacers. I currently have 275/40/17 that come
right to the
edge of the fender. I have the Eibach Pro-Kit lowering
springs and I've never
had the fender lip hit the tire.
See
you,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 12:44:21
-0400 (EDT)
From: John Stegall III <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Supercharging
Okay peeps, this goes out to everyone who said
that supercharging the SOHC/DOHC Naturally Aspirated 3000GT/Stealths could NOT
be done... because it CAN! I just spoke with someone who professionally
works on our cars in supercharging them. The guys name and contacts are
down below... just help me out here and use me as your referral if you decide
you want the setup ;oD Below is a response he sent me about supercharging
these cars. This doesn't include NOS either. Also, for those who may
misunderstand what he says, the setup _DOES INCLUDE_ "the air-to-air
intercooler, Vortech V1S, oil scavenge pump for the Vortech, and an additional
injector setup." I myself am finishing up the research and talking with
him again later this afternoon for any who want to know
more.
John
1997 3000GT
Soon to be
Supercharged
########################### REPLY
##############################
John,
I only make a Supercharger kit for
the 3000GT, both SOHC and DOHC. We tested the SOHC till it blew a piston, and it
took 9 psi to toast it. That is very low boost for a Paxton to burn a piston, so
to run more will require forged pistons. I suggest only 5 psi on the stock
engine for reliability. If you are building the engine you may as well upgrade
the rods too. The VR4 pistons/rods will fit, but wont work because of the
4-valve cuts instead of the 2-valve cuts which dont line up. The rods are almost
the same, but to upgrade to Crower units just makes sense. I believe the early
3.0 from the Chrysler cars is the same block. The heads and intake are
different. So getting a block to build is no problem. With ported & polished
heads,
headers, a larger exhaust, and 12 psi w/o an IC will net 320+hp. An
air-to-water or air-to-air IC will net another 30-40hp. I can do one for you,
and it will cost $4995 including the air-to-air intercooler, Vortech V1S, oil
scavenge pump for the Vortech, and an additional injector setup. It will not
include a modified ECU, as the AIC and simply setting the base timing a bit
retarded will work untill you get to a dyno session and burn a chip to give
ultimate hp.
Thomas (Geoff) Knight
Thomas Knight
Turbos
786-243-2000
22050 SW 155 Ave
Miami, Fl
33170
KNIGHTTURBOS.COM
BOOSTHEAD.COM
########################## END
REPLY
###########################
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 11:53:08
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Supercharging
No one ever said it couldn't be done. But
take your $5000, sell your car
and buy a VR-4...
Simple...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of John Stegall III
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 11:44 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Re: Supercharging
Okay peeps, this goes out to everyone who
said that supercharging the
SOHC/DOHC Naturally Aspirated 3000GT/Stealths
could NOT be done... because
it CAN! I just spoke with someone who
professionally works on our cars in
supercharging them. The guys name
and contacts are down below... just help
me out here and use me as your
referral if you decide you want the setup ;oD
Below is a response he sent me
about supercharging these cars. This doesn't
include NOS either.
Also, for those who may misunderstand what he says, the
setup _DOES INCLUDE_
"the air-to-air intercooler, Vortech V1S, oil scavenge
pump for the Vortech,
and an additional injector setup." I myself am
finishing up the
research and talking with him again later this afternoon
for any who want to
know more.
John
1997 3000GT
Soon to be
Supercharged
########################### REPLY
##############################
John,
I only make a Supercharger kit for
the 3000GT, both SOHC and DOHC. We tested
the SOHC till it blew a piston, and
it took 9 psi to toast it. That is very
low boost for a Paxton to burn a
piston, so to run more will require forged
pistons. I suggest only 5 psi on
the stock engine for reliability. If you
are building the engine you may as
well upgrade the rods too. The VR4
pistons/rods will fit, but wont work
because of the 4-valve cuts instead of
the 2-valve cuts which dont line up.
The rods are almost the same, but to
upgrade to Crower units just makes
sense. I believe the early 3.0 from the
Chrysler cars is the same block. The
heads and intake are different. So
getting a block to build is no problem.
With ported & polished heads,
headers, a larger exhaust, and 12 psi w/o
an IC will net 320+hp. An
air-to-water or air-to-air IC will net another
30-40hp. I can do one for
you, and it will cost $4995 including the
air-to-air intercooler, Vortech
V1S, oil scavenge pump for the Vortech, and
an additional injector setup. It
will not include a modified ECU, as the AIC
and simply setting the base
timing a bit
retarded will work untill you get
to a dyno session and burn a chip to give
ultimate hp.
Thomas (Geoff)
Knight
Thomas Knight Turbos
786-243-2000
22050 SW 155 Ave
Miami, Fl
33170
KNIGHTTURBOS.COM
BOOSTHEAD.COM
########################## END
REPLY
###########################
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 12:01:32
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Supercharging
> So getting a block to build is no
problem. With
> ported & polished heads, headers, a larger
exhaust,
> and 12 psi w/o an IC will net 320+hp. An
> air-to-water
or air-to-air IC will net another
> 30-40hp. I can do one for you, and it
will cost $4995
> including the air-to-air intercooler, Vortech V1S, oil
> scavenge pump for the Vortech, and an additional injector
>
setup.
Okay, so you go from 180 HP (???) to 320 HP with 12 psi. He
recommends
running 5 psi to not blow holes in the stock pistons, which is
going to net
you a gain of about 55-65 HP, assuming that power increases
linearly with
boost pressure. So you'll end up with somewhere around
235-245 HP. That's
all assuming that your motor is SOHC and not the SL
DOHC motor.
$5000 for a 240 HP FWD. Hmmmm. I'd personally
just use NOS, but that's
me...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 10:01:22
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mass air flow sensor (Removal)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
Shivy13@aol.com>
>
I was wondering how much a new MAS would cost me? Or any secrets
on
how
> to get the MAS off of the top part of the stock air box.
The nuts just
keep
> turning and won't come off at all. Any help
would be great. Thanks!!
> Michael
With all due respect to
those who have worked this problem over and over, it
really is simple to
remove and you don't have to damage the stock airbox
either. Step 1:
Just turn those bolts 1/4 turn so that the flats move away
from the plastic
retainers. If you're lucky as I was, one or more might
break loose
right away. Step 2: A little dexterity, a 12mm open end
wrench,
an adjustable wrench, and a 10mm socket is required. You have to
hold
the flats of the bolt with the 12mm wrench (of course your wrench is in
line
with the bolt, so no leverage). Now use the adjustable wrench to
lock
down on the shaft of the 12mm wrench. Instant leverage! Just
takes a few
minutes and the only problem is you might drop your tools a
couple of times.
I've done this twice and it takes me about 5
minutes.
Jim
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 19:12:27
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Supercharging
>Okay peeps, this goes out to everyone
who said that supercharging the
>SOHC/DOHC Naturally Aspirated
3000GT/Stealths could NOT be done... because
>it CAN!
Have you
seen it ?
> I just spoke with someone who professionally works
on our cars in
> supercharging them. The guys name and contacts are
down below... just
> help me out here and use me as your referral if you
decide you want the
> setup ;oD Below is a response he sent me
about supercharging these
> cars. This doesn't include NOS
either. Also, for those who may
> misunderstand what he says, the
setup _DOES INCLUDE_ "the air-to-air
> intercooler, Vortech V1S, oil
scavenge pump for the Vortech, and an
> additional injector setup."
I myself am finishing up the research and
> talking with him again later
this afternoon for any who want to know more.
Yes, pictures of course
!
John, read his message, 5 grands for the kit and there is no injector
driver yet. So for sure you need something to control fuel correctly. Then
installing the whole stuff can probably be done by yourselfs so you just
don't count this. Interestingly, such a system for a Camaro is only about
$3000 including an intercooler and this makes me wondering. Please ask him
how many of these system he already installed ? In his mail, I saw
something that I don't like : "...I can do one for you..." ... so he makes
one prototyp for you. This is cool, but he already said he did this. Maybe
it just didn't work well. Welcome to the Guinea-Pig club !
As said,
nothing is inpossible and you'll probably end up in something
around $6500
when done (incl. loosing AC if you have it). Please send us
pics if
available... we'll see ;-) BTW, why not using the Prochargers ? No
oil lines
necessary, no oil pump !!!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch>###########################
REPLY ##############################
>John,
>I only make a
Supercharger kit for the 3000GT, both SOHC and DOHC. We
>tested the SOHC
till it blew a piston, and it took 9 psi to toast it. That
>is very low
boost for a Paxton to burn a piston, so to run more will
>require forged
pistons. I suggest only 5 psi on the stock engine for
>reliability. If
you are building the engine you may as well upgrade the
>rods too. The
VR4 pistons/rods will fit, but wont work because of the
>4-valve cuts
instead of the 2-valve cuts which dont line up. The rods are
>almost the
same, but to upgrade to Crower units just makes sense. I
>believe the
early 3.0 from the Chrysler cars is the same block. The heads
>and intake
are different. So getting a block to build is no problem. With
>ported
& polished heads,
>headers, a larger exhaust, and 12 psi w/o an IC
will net 320+hp. An
>air-to-water or air-to-air IC will net another
30-40hp. I can do one for
>you, and it will cost $4995 including the
air-to-air intercooler, Vortech
>V1S, oil scavenge pump for the Vortech,
and an additional injector setup.
>It will not include a modified ECU, as
the AIC and simply setting the base
>timing a bit
>retarded will
work untill you get to a dyno session and burn a chip to
>give ultimate
hp.
>
>Thomas (Geoff) Knight
>Thomas Knight
Turbos
>786-243-2000
>22050 SW 155 Ave
>Miami, Fl
33170
>KNIGHTTURBOS.COM
>BOOSTHEAD.COM
>
>##########################
END REPLY ###########################
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 18:19:45
GMT
From: "marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Thanks Bob Forrest and Zeoswolf!
To Bob Forrest and
Zeoswolf,
Thanks for responding to my post about tires for an SL. I
went with the
stock size and didn’t upgrade to a bigger sizes.
Thanks
Again,
Marc 94
SL
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 18:20:58
GMT
From: "marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Car Insurance?
Hi Everyone,
Does anybody know how far back
car insurance company go back to check your
record? I think it’s three
year but not sure? Also can anybody explain why
a 98 vr4 cost more to
insure then a 98 Supra Turbo? The Supra is almost
100.00 dollars less
then a VR4. I was told a while ago that a rear wheel
drive car cost
more to insure then a front wheel drive car. I know the VR4
is 4-wheel
drive, just seems that a Supra turbo would be more then a
VR4.
Thanks,
Marc 94
SL
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 14:29:52
EDT
From:
OrangeFell@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Supercharging
My question for this Knight fellow is, "what kind of
tuning did you do to the
car to just TAKE the charger to 9 lbs?" I
don't know, it's just strange to
intentionally break someone's car without
taking into account all the
information that can be gleaned from simple math
about what is capable of the
factory fuel setup, the car's displacement, and
the compression ratio versus
the generated boost of that charger. The
pistons certainly might fail at
slightly more than that boost range under
better fuel circumstances, but
there would be a lot of better information
about what the "best" operating
boost (gain versus what the car can
realistically handle) for the engine
stock.
The rule has ALWAYS been,
no matter what "scene" or manufacturer, to
guarantee the fuel requirements
before adding to the fire. Breaking things
unwantonly without proof of
the true source of failure is bassackwards.
Kenneth
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 16:00:18
-0400 (EDT)
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Team3S: BOV
Valve question
Hey gang,
I was reading on the internet about stuff
related to our cars. I ran
across some info on aftermarket BOV
valves. Here is a quote of what I
found. Can somebody please tell
me how necessary this is. Both me and my
brother upgraded our cars to
the APEXI AVC-R electronic boost controllers
and K&N FIPK. Am I
going to damage the turbos like it says in the
following
paragraph?
"A blow off valve is a very important upgrade when
upgrading your car.B
The function of a blow off valve is to relieve
compressor "surge" caused
when the throttle plate closes under boost.
The throttle plate closes as
you let off to slow down or shift.
If this happens while the air is
pressurized, then the air will be
forced back to the turbos, causing
surge. If repeated, this may
eventually cause damage to the
turbocharger. An additional benefit of a
blow off valve is quicker boost
recovery. By blowing off the unneeded air,
the turbo is able to recover
much quicker after a shift without having
to force back the initial
charge air.. We recommend and run this in our
cars!"
From what I read, this sounds as a good BOV. I want it to be
reliable,
good for future upgrades, and QUIET (as close to the stock BOV as
possible
before the mods).
GReddy Type-S Blow Off Valve
--> $299.00
" The Greddy Type-S blow off valve is a closed loop BOV
just like the
stock BOV with higher flow capacity and much stronger piston
spring for no
boost leaks. You will not experience you could have with a open
air BOV.
This kit includes an adapter not made by Greddy to make it possible
to
install on a 3000GT. We highly recommend this unit."
Thanks
a lot everyone.
- -MIKE-
95 Red VR4
John
94 Pearl Yellow
TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:19:31
-0700
From: Morgan Holly <
morgan@popstudios.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?
Some places will nail you for the AWD, but they
shouldn't. It could
also be that a VR-4 is more expensive to fix if your
tranny gets
mangled. When I first got my '91 VR-4 I was under 25 so my
yearly
premium was $4,000. Ouch...
At 6:20 PM +0000 10/18/00, marc
augellli wrote:
>Hi Everyone,
>
> Does anybody know how far
back car insurance company go back
>to check your record? I think
it’s three year but not sure? Also
>can anybody explain why a 98
vr4 cost more to insure then a 98 Supra
>Turbo? The Supra is almost
100.00 dollars less then a VR4. I was
>told a while ago that a rear
wheel drive car cost more to insure
>then a front wheel drive car.
I know the VR4 is 4-wheel drive, just
>seems that a Supra turbo would be
more then a VR4.
>
>Thanks,
>Marc 94
SL
>
>_________________________________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com.
>
>Share
information about yourself, create your own public profile at
>
http://profiles.msn.com.
>
>
>***
Info:
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***
- --
___________________
Morgan Holly
Director of
Something
Cinram/POP DVD Center
Voice 310.899.7206
Fax
310.899.7230
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 15:25:42
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?
> mangled. When I first got my '91 VR-4 I
was under 25 so my yearly
> premium was $4,000. Ouch...
The state
farm insurance rate for my '93 VR-4 is only $70 a month,
and I'm 24.
It helps having no previous accidents.
They said it would go down even
further when I'm 25. I can't wait for
that!
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:24:45
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?
I'm right under a hundred for a '97 SL and I'm
23 with Allstate. I sent your
question to my girlfriend who works for an
insurance company. She should
come back with a reliable answer.
-
-Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart.kurek@eli.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 18, 2000 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:Car
Insurance?
> > mangled. When I first got my '91 VR-4 I was
under 25 so my yearly
> > premium was $4,000. Ouch...
>
>
The state farm insurance rate for my '93 VR-4 is only $70 a month,
> and
I'm 24. It helps having no previous accidents.
>
> They said it
would go down even further when I'm 25. I can't wait for
>
that!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 15:29:39
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?
>> mangled. When I first got my '91
VR-4 I was under 25
>> so my yearly premium was $4,000.
Ouch...
> The state farm insurance rate for my '93 VR-4 is only $70 a
month,
> and I'm 24. It helps having no previous
accidents.
Insurance rates depend a lot on your location as well as other
risk factors.
Comparing rates between people in different communities is
futile and
irrelevant.
This topic isn't tech-related and isn't
suitable for this mailing list
though.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 14:29:43
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re:Car Insurance?
A lot of it depends on what state you are
in. I know that MI rakes you over
the coals for rates. I'm in
Colorado, married, and a multicar discount
brings me down to $80/month for
full coverage.
Ken
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 18, 2000 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:Car
Insurance?
> > mangled. When I first got my '91 VR-4 I was
under 25 so my yearly
> > premium was $4,000. Ouch...
>
>
The state farm insurance rate for my '93 VR-4 is only $70 a month,
> and
I'm 24. It helps having no previous accidents.
>
> They said it
would go down even further when I'm 25. I can't wait for
>
that!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#298
*********************
