team3s
Tuesday, October 17
2000 Volume 01
: Number
297
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 16 Oct 2000 18:13:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Stegall III <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Supercharger
Wow, now I'm confused. But I'll stick with
the people on this list, as I'm willing to bet they know more. I'd say go
with the specs on this list. again they are below. Thanks for the
correction!
The compression on a turbo is 8.0:1
The compression on a
SOHC NA is 8.9:1
The compression on a DOHC NA is 10.0:1
See the Specs
Page at:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQ-Specs1.htmJohn
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 23:08:13
GMT
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone replaced a clutch master cylinder?
Has anyone replaced a
clutch master cylinder on a Stealth or 3000GT?
Thanks
Greg G
92 RT
TT
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 16:21:39
-0700
From: Morgan Holly <
morgan@popstudios.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Supercharger
A bit sideways of topic, but I just had a
TRD supercharger put in my
wifes 2000 4Runner. Although not in the same
league as my VR-4, it
delivers even power across the board and scared the
bejesus out of
numerous BMW 3-class drivers. I really like the flat response
curve
of superchargers. HP was bumped from 180 to 260.
- --
___________________
Morgan Holly
Director of Something
Cinram/POP
DVD Center
Voice 310.899.7206
Fax 310.899.7230
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:04:36
-0400
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
parts for sale
Hello everyone,
I just wanted to let you all know
that I have a few parts for sale, if
you are interested:
- -
K&N FIPK $25
- - Stock Catback
Exhaust $30
- - Mass flow sensor
$65
- - Stock fuel injectors (6) $75
- -
Stock fuel pump $30
- - Stock
turbos $200
- - Stock Air Intake
$20
- - H&R Trak + Precision Hubcentric Front Wheel Spacers
(Pair) $60
(These widen the track of our
cars without reducing any thread
length. They are made of lightweight
alluminum magnesium alloy. Brand
new in box. Nevery been
used.)
- - Analog boost pressure gauge
$15
Prices do not include shipping & handling.
If you are
interested in any of these items, please e-mail me privately
for
details.
Thanks,
Boris
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 21:14:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: '94+ rear rotor conversion question...
Hi George,
I don't
recall the parking brake not working correctly
when I upgraded from my 93 to
94+ rears. But I didn't
remove the dust shields. I just used a
hacksaw to cut
away part of the sheilds. Perhaps you disturbed
some
type of adjustment. Try looking under the shift boot
console
for an adjustment.
Be of good cheer,
John
- --- George Kuo
<
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I just converted my '92 TT's rear brake
calipers to
> '94+ beefier ones.. everything is good except one
>
side
> effect --> my hand brakes are very loose now.. even
> when
tightened all the way.
>
> I am told that its because the '94+
rotors are
> larger
> in diameter (even in the hub arear), and my
'92 drum
> brakes are a bit too small to get full contact.
>
> Will the '94+ drum brakes fit over a '92 (hub)?? Or
> do
>
I need to get a new set of '92s and hope it makes
> better
contact?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help!
>
>
/George
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?postid=76248#post76248>
> __________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
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=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 21:19:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: '94+ rear rotor conversion question...
Hello John,
Thanks. I found some more room for adjustment under
the center
console.. e-brake is nice and tight now..
thanks to everyone who
helped!
/George
- --- John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
Hi George,
>
> I don't recall the parking brake not working
>
correctly
> when I upgraded from my 93 to 94+ rears. But I
>
didn't
> remove the dust shields. I just used a hacksaw to
>
cut
> away part of the sheilds. Perhaps you disturbed
>
some
> type of adjustment. Try looking under the shift
>
boot
> console for an adjustment.
>
> Be of good
cheer,
> John
>
> --- George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> >
> > I just converted my '92 TT's rear brake
calipers
> to
> > '94+ beefier ones.. everything is good except
one
> > side
> > effect --> my hand brakes are very loose
now..
> even
> > when tightened all the way.
> >
> > I am told that its because the '94+ rotors are
> >
larger
> > in diameter (even in the hub arear), and my '92
>
drum
> > brakes are a bit too small to get full contact.
> >
> > Will the '94+ drum brakes fit over a '92 (hub)??
>
Or
> > do
> > I need to get a new set of '92s and hope it
makes
> > better contact?
> >
> > Thanks in advance
for your help!
> >
> > /George
> >
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?postid=76248#post76248>
>
> > __________________________________________________
>
> Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf!
It's
> FREE.
> >
http://im.yahoo.com/> >
> >
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> >
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>
>
> =====
> Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com> '93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
> 12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
>
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538>
> __________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 00:25:37
EDT
From:
Shivy13@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Coolant System
I was wondering if anyone can tell me where the
drain cock on the radiator of
a '94 3000 GT would be. I looked for it but I
must have overlooked it because
I didn't see it. Thanks in
advance!
Michael
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 21:31:43
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Coolant System
Lower drivers corner..hard to find but its
there.
On Tue, 17 Oct 2000
Shivy13@aol.com wrote:
> I was
wondering if anyone can tell me where the drain cock on the radiator of
>
a '94 3000 GT would be. I looked for it but I must have overlooked it because
> I didn't see it. Thanks in advance!
>
>
Michael
>
> *** Info:
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>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:56:03
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Supercharging
I am learning so much I think my head will
explode!
I was under the apparently false impression that the turbos
could only
tolerate a finite amount of back pressure, and that aftermarket
turbos with
higher output could withstand higher amounts of back
pressure. Thanks for
correcting my
wrong-thinking!
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Jeff Lucius [
SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 4:48 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Supercharging
>
> In response to why "we limit
boost":
>
> 1) "blowing out the turbo": False (though I'm not sure
that I
> understand that expression). Turbos are built to withstand a
certain
> rotational speed of the center shaft. The actual boost values
are a
> function of engine displacement and RPM, compressor air flow,
and
> turbo center shaft rotation speed (or exhaust air flow). On the
VR4
> we limit boost to limit detonation in the cylinders. On my
particular
> setup, my wastegates never open! I run at the maximum boost
the air
> pressure here at 5000-6000 feet will support - up to 1.25
kg/cm2. I
> monitor detonation with the TMO datlogger
>
> 2)
"run out of fuel": Correct. True only for the stock fuel setup. In
> fact
fuel starts to "run out" before or after 15 psi depending on
> other mods
and air pressure/density.
>
> The real reason boost is limited to 8
psi or less for turbocharging
> or supercharging is when there is no
intercooler to cool the heated,
> compressed air and reduce the tendency
for detonation. My turbo
> outlet temp calculator is available at:
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-turbotemp.htm>
> If air inlet temp is 80ºF and ambient pressure is 14 psi, if boost
is
> 4 psi then turbo outlet temp (70% efficiency) is 137ºF. At 8
psi,
> temp is 185ºF; at 12 psi temp is 228ºF; at 15 psi temp is 257ºF.
>
> The difference with superchargers, is that the efficiency is
often
> much less than for turbochargers, that is, around 50% instead of
70%,
> and the air is heated up even more. In the above case at 8 psi
with
> 50% eff. the outlet air would be 227ºF.
>
> For more a
more technical discussion, please check out my short note
> at:
>
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-adiabat1.htm>
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
> -->
http://www.stealth316.com/>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
To: "'John Stegall III'" <
jstegall@programmer.net>;
"3STeam"
> <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 1:55 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Supercharging
>
> Why should you limit supercharger boost to 8 pis
when the stock boost
> for 1st generation was 9 psi and the stock boost
for 2nd generation
> was 11 psi boost? In the turbo world, we limit boost
1) to prevent
> blowing out the turbos and 2) because we run out of fuel
somewhere
> above 15 psi boost, unless we get superduper fuel pumps
and
> injectors.
>
> Please help me understand the difference
with supercharger
> overpressure.
>
> Chuck
> Inquiring
minds want to know.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > Of
course you shouldn't go above 8 psi on a stock car (time to
>
rebuild
> > that engine!)
>
>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 07:25:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Supercharging
Actually Charles, your comments express a
certain amount of insight.
Boost pressure is indeed back pressure. The back
pressure is created
by the inability of the engine to "consume" all the air
the turbo is
puting out. With most turbos, boost pressure will decrease at
the
higher RPMs for our engines, but airflow is increased (hopefully)
over
that at lower RPM. Similarly, as we improve the breathing
ability of our
engines (head flow work, pre-cat gutting, etc.) max
boost levels go down but
air flow (and power) go up!
Of course the worst back pressure is caused
by the throttle plate
closing suddenly while boosting (cutting engine air
consumption to
almost zero) and this indeed does hurt any turbo. I am not
aware that
aftermarket turbos are any more tolerant than stock ones of this.
A
properly functioning BOV solves this problem.
Please check out the
Tech Page at my web site for links related to
this duscussion.
Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Jeff Lucius'" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 17, 2000 7:56 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Supercharging
I
am learning so much I think my head will explode!
I was under the
apparently false impression that the turbos could
only
tolerate a finite
amount of back pressure, and that aftermarket
turbos with higher output could
withstand higher amounts of back
pressure. Thanks for correcting my
wrong-thinking!
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Jeff Lucius [
SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 4:48 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Supercharging
>
> In response to why "we limit
boost":
<snip>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:26:59
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S:
part needed
Mass Flow Sensor. Actually the only thing I need is the metal
mesh grill
that is held to by with four screws. Looks like a rock got through
the
filter at some point and punch a nice hole in it. Mitsu wants me to buy
the
whole damn thing. I just want the screen. '97 SL 3000GT. As far as I
can
tell though a ~92 through 97 is the same part. Thank you.
- -Bart
Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart.kurek@eli.net***
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 15:19:39
EDT
From:
Shivy13@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Mass air flow sensor
I was wondering how much
a new MAS would cost me? Or any secrets on how
to get the MAS off of
the top part of the stock air box. The nuts just keep
turning and
won't come off at all. Any help would be great.
Thanks!!
Michael
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 12:27:18
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mass air flow sensor
I went to Mitsu this morning and they want
$435.00. I said bullshit. Funny
thing is that it's the same part for an
Eclipse and they want $825.00 if you
order it for the Eclipse. More bullshit.
I'm going to try a junk yard I
think or just cut a square out of my screen
door! ;) As far as getting the
nuts off.... hehehe funny story. I should have
the pictures I took up
tomorrow on my www site. Took a couple of hours. Many
tools. One blown
circuit because of a mishap with a circular saw...etc etc.
Can't wait for
everyone to get a good laugh at these pictures.
- -Bart
Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart.kurek@eli.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
Shivy13@aol.com>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: Mass air flow
sensor
> I was wondering how much a new
MAS would cost me? Or any secrets on
how
> to get the MAS off of
the top part of the stock air box. The nuts just
keep
> turning
and won't come off at all. Any help would be great.
Thanks!!
>
> Michael
>
> *** Info:
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 12:54:11
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mass air flow sensor
- ----- Original Message ----- From: <
Shivy13@aol.com>
>
I was wondering how much a new MAS would cost me? Or any secrets
on
how
> to get the MAS off of the top part of the stock air box.
The nuts just
keep
> turning and won't come off at all. Any help
would be great. Thanks!!
> Michael
Hey,
Michael,
This is a problem that's all too familiar to those of us who
have replaced
the stock airbox with an aftermarket filter system (FIPK,
etc...). Unless
you can clamp the "bolts" from the inside (which most
of us have found
almost impossible!), you'll have to actually cut up the
airbox to remove
those bolts. We have a webpage that's almost (but not
quite) ready for
prime-time, and it explains the situation. But until
it is "Live" on-line,
the following illustration will have to suffice:
www.Team3S.com/Images/AirBox.jpgThis
is the view from the inside of the airbox. Small plastic ridges are
on
both sides of each "bolt head" (those rounded oblong metal pieces), to
keep
them from turning. Unless you're lucky enough to have
angled,
square-spadehead needle-nose pliers in your toolbox, you're as out of
luck
as the rest of us were. And unless you can find a way to keep the
bolt
heads from turning, that nut will just keep spinning forever. If
the nuts
keep turning for you, that means that those plastic ridges have
already been
trashed, so there is nothing to prevent the bolt from turning as
you attempt
to loosen the nut. Find a way to hold them, or start
cutting.
I wish I had better news for you. The airbox is a lot
cheaper than the MAS
unit, and you're better off with an FIPK anyway (more
HP). If you can't
avoid trashing the stock airbox (and you actually
WANT to replace it), it'll
run you just over $100. A new MAS costs
several times that...
Good
luck!
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 17:12:46
-0400
From: "Ukyo[T]" <
ukyo@avana.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mass
air flow sensor
Micheal,
I was actually able to get my box off in
perfect shape. Sure we spun out
the plastic holders, but the box is
fine. We took the top of the box out of
the car (of course), held the
funky little pieces of metal inside the top
with ordinary pliers, and got all
four of them to break loose. It wasn't
easy but it only took about 20
minutes, and I still have my box if I ever
feel the need to put it back
on. Keep at it. It's not impossible.
- --Travis
'97 3000GT
(Base + K&N FIPK sans Resonator Bottle /
Red)
>> I was wondering how
much a new MAS would cost me? Or any secrets on
>how
>> to
get the MAS off of the top part of the stock air box. The nuts
just
>keep
>> turning and won't come off at all. Any help
would be great. Thanks!!
>> Michael
***
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 14:26:54
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anyone replaced a clutch master cylinder?
> Has anyone
replaced a clutch master cylinder on a Stealth or 3000GT?
Yes, it is a
pain. You have to loosen the brake master cylinder &
booster
assembly to be able to get to the bolts for the clutch master
cylinder. It is
very straight forward though, just a pain.
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 18:19:12
-0500
From: "Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheels for Sale
My 92 Stealth TT came with polished aluminum
wheels. You rarely see this,
but I have to assume it was an option in
92. Unfortunately I fear I'm going
to have to bite the bullet and
upgrade to 18's if I want race worthy breaks.
They are equiped with barely
used Goodyear Eagle F1 tires. If anyone would
be interested, please
E-mail me with an offer since they won't be of much
use to me with bigger
brakes installed.
Regards,
Dave T/92TT
bdtrent@netzero.net____________NetZero
Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.htmlRequest
a CDROM
1-800-333-3633
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#297
*********************
