team3s
Monday, October 16
2000 Volume 01
: Number
296
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 16 Oct 2000 08:53:56 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Great price on Goodridge SS brake lines
Hey everyone,
All
this talk about upgrading brakes has got me looking around for parts. I
just noticed that CarParts carries Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
(#26061) for the Twin Turbo models for $202. I have a 33% off coupon
code
on my CarParts page that makes the price of these brake lines only
$135.
Thats damn cheap. Most vendors sell these brake lines for
$200 to $250.
Check out my CarParts discounts at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.htmllater,
Curt
"the
cheap 3/S parts finder"
:-)
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 08:14:30
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S:
very interesting...
I was looking around for parts and stumbled on this
web page. It's a
Japanese company. Pay careful attention to all the text that
is next to the
pictures.
http://www.rd-tanabe.com/english/exhaust/t_t/t_tu.html-
-Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 08:35:33
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 91,92 Rotors
I have both 1st and 2nd gen cars. The
front calipers are the same, but
since the rotors are wider diameter, the
caliper mounting is offset further
from the wheel hub on 2nd gen cars.
That is what "longer mounting points"
means. The only stock wheels that
fit on 2nd gen cars are Spyder 17 wheels
or 18 wheels. The older VR4 17
wheels do not have sufficient inner rim
clearance for 2nd
gen.
Jim
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [
mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Friday,
October 13, 2000 7:47 PM
To: Brad Bedell; Trent; Team 3S
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 91,92 Rotors
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Brad Bedell <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>
Bolt patterns are the same
> Hub diameter is the same
> Caliper
mounting point is the same.
>
> Different on the later
cars:
> Rotor larger in diameter
> Caliper has longer mounting
points to accommodate the larger rotor.
>
=====================================================
Brad
That
last line confuses me --- could you elaborate a
little.
Jim
Berry
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 08:46:32
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake summary (long), was: Brake Kit Discount Available
>
I talked to Porterfield 6 months or so ago and it didn't seem like it would be a
big
> deal --- they have the dimensions for the 3/S rotors to start with
then you just
> choose what rotor configuration you want to go with the
hat, the end result is a
> custom two piece rotor. Their cost is higher
--- is the KVR a one off or are more
> units required to get the $200
price. In addition, I don't remember the material for
> the hats, is the
KVR aluminum or steel.
Actually, Porterfield's prices MAY not be that
much higher. I spoke with Tim
(PF) a month ago and he said his hat
prices are typically $179-$279 each
depending on the amount of aluminum
required. Ours should be on the lower side
of the price range
though. However, I still had the impression that the
customer is
responsible for all measurements. Porterfield's disks (solid)
are
cheaper too at $139 each. KVR's hat prices are $180 each.
This should be the
"one off" price and includes anodizing in a choice of
colors. Porterfield hats
are made from billet aluminum although I don't
know the grade. KVR likes to use
6061 T6 aluminum for their hats
because it resists corrosion. Also, Porterfield
only does rotors while
KVR can do rotors, caliper mounting brackets, and whole
kits. If you
just need rotors, then either company would be fine and are
comparably
priced.
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 11:10:31
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 91,92 Rotors
> The only stock wheels that fit on 2nd gen
cars
> are Spyder 17 wheels or 18 wheels. The older VR4
> 17
wheels do not have sufficient inner rim
> clearance for 2nd
gen.
'94 VR4 17" wheels should fit any 2nd gen car as well. '94
model VR4's have
the "upgraded" brakes same as the rest of the 2nd gen
cars.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:19:42
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 91,92 Rotors
>> The only stock wheels that fit on 2nd
gen cars
>> are Spyder 17 wheels or 18 wheels. The older
VR4
>> 17 wheels do not have sufficient inner rim
>> clearance
for 2nd gen.
>'94 VR4 17" wheels should fit any 2nd gen car as
well. '94 model VR4's
have
>the "upgraded" brakes same as the
rest of the 2nd gen cars.
Aren't the 94 VR4 17 wheels the same as the
Spyder 17 wheels? If not, the
page
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQwheels.htm
needs to be updated.
Jim
91 VR4
95 Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 11:54:45
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 91,92 Rotors
Yep, they are the same rims. 94 VR4 rims =
95-96 Spyder rims. That wheels
page is derived from my wheel page
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/wheels.htmllater,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>
>Aren't
the 94 VR4 17 wheels the same as the Spyder 17 wheels? If not,
the
>page
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQwheels.htm
needs to be updated.
>
>Jim
>91 VR4
>95 Spyder
VR4
>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 10:01:58
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: '94+ rear rotor conversion question...
Hi All,
I just
converted my '92 TT's rear brake calipers to
'94+ beefier ones.. everything
is good except one side
effect --> my hand brakes are very loose now..
even
when tightened all the way.
I am told that its because the '94+
rotors are larger
in diameter (even in the hub arear), and my '92
drum
brakes are a bit too small to get full contact.
Will the '94+
drum brakes fit over a '92 (hub)?? Or do
I need to get a new set of '92s and
hope it makes
better contact?
Thanks in advance for your
help!
/George
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?postid=76248#post76248__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 12:27:57
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: '94+ rear rotor conversion question...
I'm pretty sure you
have something out of adjustment or not working
correctly.
I have done
several rear upgrades and the e-brake works fine (Including the
car in my
driveway right now)
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of George Kuo
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 12:02 PM
To: Team
3S
Subject: Team3S: '94+ rear rotor conversion question...
Hi
All,
I just converted my '92 TT's rear brake calipers to
'94+ beefier
ones.. everything is good except one side
effect --> my hand brakes are
very loose now.. even
when tightened all the way.
I am told that its
because the '94+ rotors are larger
in diameter (even in the hub arear), and
my '92 drum
brakes are a bit too small to get full contact.
Will the
'94+ drum brakes fit over a '92 (hub)?? Or do
I need to get a new set of '92s
and hope it makes
better contact?
Thanks in advance for your
help!
/George
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?postid=76248#post76248__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 11:58:16
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 91,92 Rotors
I believe you're right - my '94 VR4 has 17"
chrome wheels that look exactly
like the ones in the FAQ picture for the
Spyder.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Watkins, Jim [
SMTP:jim.watkins@terayon.com]
>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 11:20 AM
> To: 'Jannusch, Matt'; Team
3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 91,92 Rotors
>
>
> >>
The only stock wheels that fit on 2nd gen cars
> >> are Spyder 17
wheels or 18 wheels. The older VR4
> >> 17 wheels do not have
sufficient inner rim
> >> clearance for 2nd gen.
>
>
>'94 VR4 17" wheels should fit any 2nd gen car as well. '94 model
VR4's
> have
> >the "upgraded" brakes same as the rest of the 2nd
gen cars.
>
> Aren't the 94 VR4 17 wheels the same as the Spyder 17
wheels? If not, the
> page
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQwheels.htm
needs to be updated.
>
> Jim
> 91 VR4
> 95 Spyder
VR4
>
> *** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 10:52:53
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: '94+ rear rotor conversion question...
Hi
Brad,
Thanks! I know I can always count on you to reply my
brake
questions!! =)
Hmm.. ok,, so where do you think I should start
trouble
shoot? Any suggestions on where/what parts to
look
at?
Thanks,
George
- --- Brad Bedell <
bbedell@austin.rr.com> wrote:
>
I'm pretty sure you have something out of adjustment
> or not
working
> correctly.
>
> I have done several rear upgrades
and the e-brake
> works fine (Including the
> car in my driveway
right now)
>
>
> Brad
> Check out my home
page:
>
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/>
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
> George Kuo
> Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 12:02
PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S: '94+ rear rotor
conversion
> question...
>
> Hi All,
>
> I just
converted my '92 TT's rear brake calipers to
> '94+ beefier ones..
everything is good except one
> side
> effect --> my hand brakes
are very loose now.. even
> when tightened all the way.
>
> I
am told that its because the '94+ rotors are
> larger
> in diameter
(even in the hub arear), and my '92 drum
> brakes are a bit too small to
get full contact.
>
> Will the '94+ drum brakes fit over a '92
(hub)?? Or
> do
> I need to get a new set of '92s and hope it
makes
> better contact?
>
> Thanks in advance for your
help!
>
> /George
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?postid=76248#post76248>
> __________________________________________________
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>
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>
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 13:18:32
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: '94+ rear rotor conversion question...
I got this
one:
Under your center console, there is yet another adjustment in the
e-brake
cable. A couple turns here, and you willbe set. I had the
same problem -
they had no more adjustment at the brake, but inside the car,
there was
enough adjustment left to lock the rears entirely if I wanted
to...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of George Kuo
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 12:53 PM
To: Team
3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: '94+ rear rotor conversion question...
Hi
Brad,
Thanks! I know I can always count on you to reply my
brake
questions!! =)
Hmm.. ok,, so where do you think I should start
trouble
shoot? Any suggestions on where/what parts to
look
at?
Thanks,
George
- --- Brad Bedell <
bbedell@austin.rr.com> wrote:
>
I'm pretty sure you have something out of adjustment
> or not
working
> correctly.
>
> I have done several rear upgrades and
the e-brake
> works fine (Including the
> car in my driveway right
now)
>
>
> Brad
> Check out my home page:
>
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/>
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
> George Kuo
> Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 12:02
PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S: '94+ rear rotor
conversion
> question...
>
> Hi All,
>
> I just
converted my '92 TT's rear brake calipers to
> '94+ beefier ones..
everything is good except one
> side
> effect --> my hand brakes
are very loose now.. even
> when tightened all the way.
>
> I
am told that its because the '94+ rotors are
> larger
> in diameter
(even in the hub arear), and my '92 drum
> brakes are a bit too small to
get full contact.
>
> Will the '94+ drum brakes fit over a '92
(hub)?? Or
> do
> I need to get a new set of '92s and hope it
makes
> better contact?
>
> Thanks in advance for your
help!
>
> /George
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?postid=76248#post76248>
>
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
>
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>
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>
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>
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 15:26:03
-0400 (EDT)
From: John Stegall III <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Supercharging
Okay, for those on the list who replied to me
saying they were interested. Two companies offer superchargers for 3000GTs
- base and SL. I don't know about VR-4s. Paxton (
www.paxtonauto.com) and ProCharger (
www.procharger.com) both offer
superchargers. And supercharging the basemodel is easier than the SL
model. Paxton's superchargers are non-dynoed and non-intercooled.
ProCharger's superchargers are fully intercooled and offer more boost and still
keep the engine cool - but there's about 10x more mods needed to bolt one on;
whereas paxton superchargers don't require very many mods at all. Paxton's
superchargers offer from 6-20 psi of boost and procharger superchargers go up to
32 psi of boost. Of course you shouldn't go above 8 psi on a stock car
(time to rebuild that engine!) Anyone here supercharged their cars already
or done more research on it I'd love to hear.
John
1997
3000GT
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 14:55:50
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Supercharging
Why should you limit supercharger boost to 8
pis when the stock boost for
1st generation was 9 psi and the stock boost for
2nd generation was 11 psi
boost? In the turbo world, we limit boost 1) to
prevent blowing out the
turbos and 2) because we run out of fuel somewhere
above 15 psi boost,
unless we get superduper fuel pumps and
injectors.
Please help me understand the difference with supercharger
overpressure.
Chuck
Inquiring minds want to know.
>
-----Original Message-----
> Of course you shouldn't go above 8 psi on a
stock car (time to rebuild
> that engine!)
>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 14:42:25
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Supercharging
> Why should you limit supercharger boost to
8 pis
> when the stock boost for 1st generation was 9 psi
> and the
stock boost for 2nd generation was 11 psi
> boost? In the turbo world, we
limit boost 1) to
> prevent blowing out the turbos and 2) because
we
> run out of fuel somewhere above 15 psi boost,
> unless we get
superduper fuel pumps and injectors.
That applies if your motor started
out in the turbo world. If you have one
of the naturally aspirated
motors, it has a higher compression ratio to
provide more power. The
turbo motor starts out with lower compression to
allow for higher boost
pressure before detonation. If you wanted to run
more supercharger
pressure on a N/A motor then you'd want to do something to
lower the
compression ratio. I don't have the specs on-hand at the moment,
but
off the top of my head the turbo motor is something like 8.1:1 and NA
motor
is 10.2:1 or something along those lines.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 15:03:09
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Supercharging
Now I understand. I didn't realize the
normally aspirated engines were
architecturally different. Did they do
that with longer connecting rods?
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Jannusch, Matt [
SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 2:42 PM
> To: 3STeam
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Supercharging
>
> > Why should you limit supercharger
boost to 8 pis
> > when the stock boost for 1st generation was 9
psi
> > and the stock boost for 2nd generation was 11 psi
> >
boost? In the turbo world, we limit boost 1) to
> > prevent blowing out
the turbos and 2) because we
> > run out of fuel somewhere above 15 psi
boost,
> > unless we get superduper fuel pumps and injectors.
>
> That applies if your motor started out in the turbo world. If you
have
> one
> of the naturally aspirated motors, it has a higher
compression ratio to
> provide more power. The turbo motor starts
out with lower compression to
> allow for higher boost pressure before
detonation. If you wanted to run
> more supercharger pressure on a
N/A motor then you'd want to do something
> to
> lower the
compression ratio. I don't have the specs on-hand at the
>
moment,
> but off the top of my head the turbo motor is something like
8.1:1 and NA
> motor is 10.2:1 or something along those lines.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> ***
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 13:08:36
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Supercharging
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
That applies if your motor started out in the turbo world. If you
have
one
> of the naturally aspirated motors, it has a higher
compression ratio to
> provide more power. The turbo motor starts
out with lower compression to
> allow for higher boost pressure before
detonation. If you wanted to run
> more supercharger pressure on a
N/A motor then you'd want to do something
to
> lower the compression
ratio. I don't have the specs on-hand at the
moment,
> but off
the top of my head the turbo motor is something like 8.1:1 and NA
> motor
is 10.2:1 or something along those lines.
The compression on a turbo
is 8.0:1
The compression on a SOHC NA is 8.9:1
The compression on a DOHC
NA is 10.0:1
See the Specs Page at:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQ-Specs1.htmBest,
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 22:19:07
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Supercharging
> Two companies offer superchargers
for 3000GTs - base and SL.
Sorry, but saying this is not correct, because
there is nothing from the
shelf that can be installed in our cars. One can
design ANY SC system around
ANY SC and put it into the engine bay, it's just
a matter of money and ...
space... that we don't have. On any model SCing is
complicated and only
"easier" if there is no air compressor for the AC
system.As previously
stated
> I don't know about
VR-4s.
Man, they already have a TwinTurbo system, LOL.
>
Paxton (
www.paxtonauto.com) and
ProCharger (
www.procharger.com)
both
offer superchargers. And supercharging the basemodel is easier
than the SL
model. Paxton's superchargers are non-dynoed and
non-intercooled.
ProCharger's superchargers are fully intercooled and offer
more boost and
still keep the engine cool - but there's about 10x more mods
needed to bolt
one on; whereas paxton superchargers don't require very many
mods at all.
No, both would need the usual mods like injectors, fuel pump
and fuel
controller. The ATI intercoolers are not that huge and can be
installed
easily. Unfortunately, they do not carry a FMIC right
now.
Under the line there is not a lot to say but ... forget it :( There
is just
no room for such a chrager as it must be driven from the crank. And
here the
project immediatly stops as there is not enough room for another
pulley on
the crank. Without an AC compressor, the stock AC pulley could be
used but
then the belt is the wrong one. There is no pulley existing for the
car and
one would have to develop a pulley to drive the charger. Even more
there is
nothing one can install the charger to then. Even more the case
would
interfer with the hood and the radiator when installed in the
front.
Installing it in the rear is even less possible.
I do not say
it is impossible but I say it is very expensive to develop such
a system. It
is much more expensive than getting a VR4 with trading your
car
in.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 17:06:09
-0400
From: Rudy Morales <
rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Newbie needs help on what to do
Hi everybody,
I bought a 91
Dodge Stealth ES a couple of months ago,
its got the 24v DOHC engine and
about 116,000 miles.
I love the car but got a couple of problems.
I
got a major leak from the pipe that goes from the water pump
to the
thermostat housing (probably the O-rings at the ends),
I changed the
thermostat and checked the housing
and its not coming from there. I have to
fill up the reservoir bottle
everyday with coolant mixture. I will have to
take out
the plenum and other stuff to get to it.
I also have some bad
valve guides on the heads,
its smokes badly when its idling and the AC is on
or when stuck in traffic.
Here is my question, since I am paying a master
mechanic for the
labor I want to take advantage of having half the engine
apart and
replace as many parts as it makes sense to do.
Can you
guys tell me what is cost effective to do when I have the
plenum and other
things disassembled?
Should I do the timing belt? (supposedly it was done
a 90,000
but there was no paperwork or records for the car)
Any
suggestions for the valve guides? should I have them fixed by a
machine shop
or get new ones?
Any other components that make sense to change (spark
plugs?)?
Thanks to all in advance.
Rudy
Morales
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 21:02:33
GMT
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Problems with leaking master cylnder
What kind of problems will I
encounter with a leaky clutch master cylinder?
I noticed a few days ago
shifting into second and third and fourth got
harder to do. I just thought
that it was probably the tranny just wearing
and the clutch etc.
But
today I looked to adjust my clutch pedal and noticed fluid leaking from
the
master cylinder.
Does this mean I am ok as far as tranny concerns and that I
can replace the
master cylinder? How long do I have? estimates?
The
car is a 1992 RT TT with 34k on it.
Anyone know the number for
Tallahassee mitsubishi?
thanks
Greg G
92 RT
TT
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***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 14:00:51
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Supercharging
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John
Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
>
> Two companies offer superchargers for 3000GTs - base and SL.
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> Sorry,
but saying this is not correct, because there is nothing from the
> shelf
that can be installed in our cars. One can design ANY SC
system
around
> ANY SC and put it into the engine bay, it's just a
matter of money and ...
> space... that we don't have. On any model SCing
is complicated and only
> "easier" if there is no air compressor for the
AC system. As previously
> stated
I agree with Roger - I researched
the possibility of adding a SC to my '94
NT Stealth last year, and could find
nothing that was logistically possible
(or affordable), especially from
Paxton. Their units are for a RAM truck
engine and a 3.5 liter engine
from one of the Dodge sedans - I saw nothing
for a 3k or Stealth. If
you have a real Jones for supercharging your
non-turbo 3S, you'd have to
remove your AC and who-knows what else to make
room for it. It would be
a custom job and pricey, since you'd probably have
to change the engine
compression. Then there would be the problem
of
detonation...
The only thing I could find for our non-turbos was
eRacing's eRam electric
SC (I didn't like the TurboZet, based on members
Rommel/Leroy testing it out
a couple of years ago and finding no
difference...!). I bought the Super
eRam for my car, and I'm still
working on an intake redesign to fit even
this small 5" x 11" cylinder unit,
and keep the stock MAS and full-sized
FIPK as part of the intake... We
tested my Stealth with the single eRam on
a dyno and got about 10% more HP;
by eRacing's testing (not mine), the Super
version should do about 15%,
MAX. I wrote it up and it's on our website if
you want to read the full
story:
www.Team3S.com/FAQeram.htmThat's
it... That's all that's available to boost HP on our NTs. I
hear
that there are packages in the works for DOHCs, and eventually SOHCs,
but
for now, 15% is all we can hope for. If that isn't enough, you're
better
off doing a trade for a TT/VR4. Roger knows engines, and like he
says, it
would probably be
cheaper...
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 14:15:18
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Problems with leaking master cylnder
- ----- Original Message
----- From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
-
------------------snip-----------------
> But today I looked to adjust my
clutch pedal and noticed fluid leaking
from
> the master
cylinder.
> Does this mean I am ok as far as tranny concerns and that I
can replace
the
> master cylinder? How long do I have?
estimates?
> The car is a 1992 RT TT with 34k on it.
> Anyone know
the number for Tallahassee mitsubishi?
http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits/2417
W. Tennessee St.
Tallahassee, FL 32304
888-825-5648
ask for Shawn or
Jeremy
tallmits@mindspring.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 14:48:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Supercharging
In response to why "we limit boost":
1)
"blowing out the turbo": False (though I'm not sure that I
understand that
expression). Turbos are built to withstand a certain
rotational speed of the
center shaft. The actual boost values are a
function of engine displacement
and RPM, compressor air flow, and
turbo center shaft rotation speed (or
exhaust air flow). On the VR4
we limit boost to limit detonation in the
cylinders. On my particular
setup, my wastegates never open! I run at the
maximum boost the air
pressure here at 5000-6000 feet will support - up to
1.25 kg/cm2. I
monitor detonation with the TMO datlogger
2) "run out
of fuel": Correct. True only for the stock fuel setup. In
fact fuel starts to
"run out" before or after 15 psi depending on
other mods and air
pressure/density.
The real reason boost is limited to 8 psi or less for
turbocharging
or supercharging is when there is no intercooler to cool the
heated,
compressed air and reduce the tendency for detonation. My
turbo
outlet temp calculator is available at:
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-turbotemp.htmIf
air inlet temp is 80ºF and ambient pressure is 14 psi, if boost is
4 psi then
turbo outlet temp (70% efficiency) is 137ºF. At 8 psi,
temp is 185ºF; at 12
psi temp is 228ºF; at 15 psi temp is 257ºF.
The difference with
superchargers, is that the efficiency is often
much less than for
turbochargers, that is, around 50% instead of 70%,
and the air is heated up
even more. In the above case at 8 psi with
50% eff. the outlet air would be
227ºF.
For more a more technical discussion, please check out my short
note
at:
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-adiabat1.htmJeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'John Stegall III'" <
jstegall@programmer.net>;
"3STeam"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, October 16, 2000 1:55 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Supercharging
Why should you limit supercharger boost to 8 pis when the
stock boost
for 1st generation was 9 psi and the stock boost for 2nd
generation
was 11 psi boost? In the turbo world, we limit boost 1) to
prevent
blowing out the turbos and 2) because we run out of fuel
somewhere
above 15 psi boost, unless we get superduper fuel pumps
and
injectors.
Please help me understand the difference with
supercharger
overpressure.
Chuck
Inquiring minds want to
know.
> -----Original Message-----
> Of course you shouldn't go
above 8 psi on a stock car (time to
rebuild
> that engine!)
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 14:52:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Problems with leaking master cylnder
>> Anyone know the
number for Tallahassee mitsubishi?
The urls, phone numbers, etc. for the
popular Mitsu dealers that
offer club discounts can be found on the Garage
and Links pages at my
web site.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, October 16, 2000 3:02 PM
Subject: Team3S: Problems with leaking
master cylnder
<snip>
thanks
Greg G
92 RT
TT
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#296
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