team3s
Tuesday, October 10
2000 Volume 01
: Number
289
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 09 Oct 2000 16:35:12 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotor Update
At 02:16 PM 10/9/00 -0700, Ken Middaugh
wrote:
>Track tires will cost $520+ a set, but you will also
need a set of wheels to
>mount them on. Lots of folks are highly
recommending the Kumho race tires
For the first year, I recommend
Yokohama 032R tires. They wear like iron,
and you don't have to adjust the
camber for them. They don't have quite the
same grip as the Kuhmos, but they
will last twice as long. Excellent school
tire.
For
>wheels, the stock ones are sufficient but heavy and
should cost $400+. For
>aftermarket, you need forged racing wheels
and those will be $1000+.
I got a set from Tire Rack for about
$200 each. Be careful what you buy,
because those real pretty street wheels
won't last a New York minute on a
track. Can you say, "Crack, crack"? Tire
Rack gives good advice.
>
>For camber, Merrit is real happy with
-3 degrees. If you want a daily
driver,
>then you will need to be
able to adjust your camber at the track, so a set of
>front camber
adjustment plates will be a good investment. You can have
an
>alignment shop make "street" and "track" marks on the adjustment
plates, then
>you can change the camber at the track.
I
don't agree, but you are certainly welcome to try. Others do it. I
wouldn't
do it.
>
>To increase the front track width, you will need
longer racing wheel studs
and
>either wheel spacers OR a two-piece
rotor with an extra thick facing. Mohler
>suggests increasing each
side by 3/4". A wider front track is OK for a daily
>driver
too. Spacers and studs should be about $100.
Yeah, but where do
you buy them? I've tried to track down studs with no luck.
For
two-piece rotors, talk
>to Terry Gosse at KVR, 800-636-0854. He can
make anything you want for a
very
>fair price. Two-piece rotors
should be about $700 and are also part of a
brake
>upgrades
below.
Hey, Ken! Give the guy a break! He is a long way from
$700 rotors.
Sheesh, I'm not even there yet.
>
>After you have
made modifications to improve your corner exit speed, then you
>will want
to upgrade your braking power. To do this, you will need a
kit
with
>aftermarket calipers and rotors (also caliper brackets,
stainless steel
lines,
>racing fluid). The best bang for the buck
is Brad Bedells Porsche Big Red
>caliper upgrade with one-piece rotors at
$1500.
Good advice! Except Brad's kit does not include
rotors.
Basically good advice, Ken. Seems like you west coast Internet
millionaires
have a much bigger budget than I do.
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 18:04:07
EDT
From:
Zeoswolf@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Re:2nd gen headlight on a 1st gen
In a message dated 10/9/00
5:33:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com
writes:
<<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>>
Dusan,
If you wanted to do this,
the light conversion is simple. What you have
to worry about is the
hood. You have two options, either shave down the 1st
gen hood to fit
becuase the 2nd gen lights have a more curved shape to them.
Or choice
two, you need to get a 2nd gen hood. Although you will compromise
the
hood bonnets that people seem to love on the 1st gens. Hope this
helps... all in all, this might be pricey so I would think twice about
it if
I were you. Remember, the headlight assembly from the dealer is
375 a
side... then a hood.. possibly another couple hundred if you found it
from a
junkyard then you have to paint it to match your car. Just my
thoughts.....
cheers!
james
94R/T
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 18:11:25
-0400
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re:2nd gen headlight on a 1st gen
Thanks James,
yeah,
that does seem like a lot of money. I thought that the hood shape was
the
same... damn it... anyhow, I better start saving for a newer VR-4
than
throwing away money like that... right? thanks for the
info!
regards
Dusan
'92 Stealth base
K&N FIPK
BOSCH
platinum +4
Advil bottle
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
<
Zeoswolf@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, October 09, 2000 6:04 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re:2nd gen headlight on a
1st gen
> In a message dated 10/9/00 5:33:13 PM Eastern Daylight
Time,
>
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com
writes:
>
> <<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>>
>
> Dusan,
> If
you wanted to do this, the light conversion is simple. What
you
have
> to worry about is the hood. You have two options,
either shave down the
1st
> gen hood to fit becuase the 2nd gen lights
have a more curved shape to
them.
> Or choice two, you need to get a
2nd gen hood. Although you will
compromise
> the hood bonnets
that people seem to love on the 1st gens. Hope this
> helps...
all in all, this might be pricey so I would think twice about it
if
> I
were you. Remember, the headlight assembly from the dealer is 375
a
> side... then a hood.. possibly another couple hundred if you found it
from
a
> junkyard then you have to paint it to match your car.
Just my
thoughts.....
> cheers!
>
> james
>
94R/T
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 15:33:42
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotor Update
> >For camber, Merrit is real happy with
-3 degrees. If you want a daily
> driver,
> >then you will
need to be able to adjust your camber at the track, so a set of
>
>front camber adjustment plates will be a good investment. You can have
an
> >alignment shop make "street" and "track" marks on the adjustment
plates, then
> >you can change the camber at the track.
>
> I don't agree, but you are certainly welcome to try. Others do it.
I
> wouldn't do it.
Yes, but you don't use your car as a daily
driver, correct? You just set camber
to the track
settings.
Check out
http://www.ground-control.com/default.htm
for Ground Control's new
camber adjustment plates. They currently don't
have a Stealth/3000GT listing
yet, but they should have a universal
style. Tien and Cusco should also have
camber plates. They should
all be real easy to adjust.
> >To increase the front track
width, you will need longer racing wheel studs
> and
> >either
wheel spacers OR a two-piece rotor with an extra thick facing.
Mohler
> >suggests increasing each side by 3/4". A wider front
track is OK for a daily
> >driver too. Spacers and studs should
be about $100.
>
> Yeah, but where do you buy them? I've tried to
track down studs with no luck.
Geoff Mohler bought his from
http://www.rallydist.com/. This link
didn't work
today although it worked last week. Our studs are 12mm *
1.5mm but I don't know
the stock length.
- --
Could you drive
any better if I shoved that cell phone up your a**?!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 17:38:53
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Adventures in Braking
You may have seen my recent post on Road
America, where I discussed braking
from 125 mph. Don't try this at
home!
Serially, my brakes are working very, very well, so I thought I'd
give you
an update.
My system includes:
"Big Red" Porsche 993
twin turbo calipers (purchased from Brad Bedell as a
kit)
Stainless steel
brake lines on all four wheels (part of the kit)
Cryogenically treated
Porterfield stock rotors.
Ford High Performance brake fluid (best bargain in
all of racing! $3 a pint
at your Ford dealer)
Hawk Blue race
pads
Other modifications:
Removed backing plates from front brakes for
air flow
Removed front inner fender well (behind the intercoolers) to promote
air flow
2.5 in. cooling air ducts from under the front valence to inside the
front
wheels.
Water injection directly to the rotors (a stream of water,
not a mist)
The piece de resistance -- special duct scoops from Walt Disney
Animal
Kingdom. (These are the big cups you get at McDonalds, that are necked
down
to fit into cup holders. I slice off the end of the cup. The 2.5-in
duct
hose fits inside the neckdown very nicely. Then I attach the cup to
the
bottom of the valence with plumbing strapping. The entire apparatus
fits
inside the 4x6 in. openings to the left and right of the air dam, with
half
the big opening of the cup in the air flow). My car is so low that I
can't
use these on the street. Anything higher than a matchbox cover rips
them
right off. So I install them when I change tires at the track.
Results:
At Road America, we brake three times per lap from 120+ (at
1, 5 and Canada
Corner), and three times from 100 (at 3, 8 and 14). When I am
not being
hassled, I'll coast down from the big speeds to 100, then brake.
But when a
Cobra R is in the mirrors at 125 mph, I lift, count one-two, then
hit them
so hard they bounce off the ABS.
Under normal braking (from
100 mph), the brakes hold up very, very well.
Under Cobra R-assisted braking
at 125 mph, they get hot and begin to fade.
This is where the water
injection pays off big time. After one of those big
stops, I flip the
windshield washer lever a few times, and squirt water
directly onto the
rotors. (I run 1/4 in. hoses to both rotors and T them
into the hose
leading to the windshield washers. To prevent the wipers from
turning, I pull
the plug on the wiper motor. Works like a champ!) One 20
minute session under
Cobra R-assisted braking uses up the entire windshield
washer reservoir, but
the brakes hold up!.
My instructor drove the car and was impressed by
the brakes. And I'm not
done yet (see below).
Last time out, at
Heartland Park, I ran Pagid Black pads ($220) . They
dusted severely and
turned my wheels black on the street, but the first
time I took them on a
track they quit dusting. The Pagids stopped very
well, and lasted the entire
event, plus another 50 laps at Marshalltown.
When I replaced them, there was
still lots of pad left. My major complaint
with the Pagids is the terrible
noise they make off the track. It sounds
like metal-to-metal all the time,
even when there's 1/4 in. of pad left.
The Hawk Blues ($150) appear to
have used up half the pad, which is pretty
good for a big, heavy-braking
track like RA. I think if I run again this
season, I'll stay with this set of
Hawk Blues and take the Pagids along as
spares. The blues don't make nearly
as much noise on the street as the
Pagids. Not yet, anyway.
There is
one more event -- in November, at Heartland Park in Topeka, put on
by the
Audi Quattro club.
Next: I have a set of residual pressure valves
from Porterfield that are
supposed to keep pressure on the rear pads so that
the rears actually do
some work for a change and contribute to the braking.
Also, this winter we
are going to see if we can't put the old front VR4
calipers (or something
else) on the rears. I also have a set of NASCAR truck
air blowers, which we
are going to install in the duct system so there will
be constant air
pressure into the rotors. We'll also run the water injection
into the
blowers to create a mist instead of a stream. We'll keep you posted
on the
progress..
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 19:30:31
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Great video
It's not a 3000GT, but if you want to see how Canada
Corner should be
taken, go to
www.trackguys.com, click on the video clip
section, and then
click on Turn 12 at Road America.
It's my buddy and
instructor Jeff Lacina in his 95 Mustang 351 coming into
Canada Corner at 145
(20 mph faster than me), then storming through in 3rd,
upshifting to 4th, and
disappearing under the bridge into 13. Turn up the
sound!!
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 20:37:45
-0400
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
New England Drag Way (import and compact cars only)
Hello everyone,
I just wanted to take the time to let everybody know
that this Saturday is a
big day at New England Dragway. Street modified
imports and compact car
only,in short IMPORT BLISS. I personally know of
several highly tuned
Japanese super cars that will be there. This is a
good chance for us to show
our stuff. My car is in the shop for some
last minute modifications and a
quick change of CV joints before the
weekend.I'm hoping to run some decent
times without any problems. To
enter, you must be there at 8am. It would be
nice to see our cars in
vast numbers. There will be plenty of stock,lightly
modified, and highly
modified cars there. So no matter where your car is on
the modification
line, this will be a good time to pick up some new ideas,
and also see
where you are, and figure out what you want to do to your car
next.
New England Dragway is located in Epping New Hampshire
Just over the
Massachusetts border. for more imformation go to
WWW.NewEnglandDragway.com
HOPE TO SEE YOU THERE!!!!!!
Boris
91 RT/TT
***
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:59:03
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New England Drag Way (import and compact cars only)
>
Hello everyone, I just wanted to take the time to let
> everybody know
that this Saturday is a big day at New
> England Dragway.
A little
far for me to venture out...
I and some comrades from MN 3/S will be at
Rock Falls Raceway for their
Saturday Fun Day in Wisconsin. There is an
Import Day on Sunday, but I have
an autocross to attend on that
day.
Anyone is welcome if you are around the WI/MN/IA area... The
last weekend
of drag racing in the region as far as I know.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 21:56:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Road America Report
> >but don't know why this would
make the rear "loose" or "step out."
- ---
Someone not
expecting it might say its steppin out back there, but it
reduces lateral
load on the wheels and allows for much greater rotation of
the car -vs- a
rear end that simply tracked straight.
> >the AWS to make it
OPPOSITE phase. I believe it's all hydraulics, so
- ---
Oh
god..nono. This would be like a really pooched up toe setting in
the
back of the car. Would actually put more lateral stress on the
outside
rear wheel, and would be seriously funky in the rear.
IMHO..
> > As for me, my car exhibits understeer under
acceleration and oversteer under
> >braking, and I have to really watch
the latter due to my inexperience, so
- ---
You can thank the front end
torque bias for that. Simply outdriving the
amount of rubber on the
front of the car..plus -some- weight Xfer. Im
investigating some
seriously heavy spring rates to cure that problem as we
speak. Nothing
in the commercially available vein even attracts me. Too
spongy.
But since I'll never see a course as bad as a "decent" city
street, who
cares.
> That almost sounds as if you have some positive toe
dialed in at the rear,
> especially if it wants to swap ends under hard
braking. Check the
> alignment, and get rid of that positive toe in the
rear.
- ---
Agreed. The car should be dead 0 toe all
around.
..and if your alignment shop cant measure toe under load..then
you dont
have a good toe alignment. My shop tries to keep about a 5'
per mile toe
setting on the car under load. This is measures with a
toe-analyser on
the ground..with the car rolling over it. Cool
device. Ive seen on our
VR4 ('95 stock bushings) about a 9' per mile
difference in what the best
alignment rack in the world considers 0 toe, and
what 0 toe really is with
load on the suspension. Note: There is
no "number" to dial in to correct
for this..so I cant
speculate.
Damnit Rich..we're gonna -have- to meet in the middle
somewhere this next
spring/summer and go racin!
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 00:31:08
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Road America Report
>Damnit Rich..we're gonna -have- to
meet in the middle somewhere this next
>spring/summer and go
racin!
>
I wish SOMEBODY would come out and play. I'm tired of being
the only VR4 at
the track. I don't have anybody to compare notes
with.
Rich
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 22:34:29
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Road America Report
Sweet.
We belive BRE found the (or
very possibly) the source of our motor failure
at Buttonwillow.
Oil
starvation.
Oil was full..and still was when he pulled it. Yet the
turbos and some of
the journals..and oil pump innards showed signs of pumpin'
air instead of
oil.
I gather we were pulling easy 1.0G+ thru some
turns that were in the area
of 10-15 seconds each in the track configuration
we had that day (full
course).
Will keep everyone up to date on what
else we discover/do.
On Tue, 10 Oct 2000, Merritt wrote:
>
>Damnit Rich..we're gonna -have- to meet in the middle somewhere this
next
> >spring/summer and go racin!
> >
> I wish
SOMEBODY would come out and play. I'm tired of being the only VR4 at
> the
track. I don't have anybody to compare notes with.
>
> Rich
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 02:44:21
-0700
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
Turbo Tech question
Hi everyone,
After long hard hours, I managed
to rip off the factory turbos myself
without lifting the entire engine
:)
I have a few questions regarding the compressor housings on the
stock
TD04-9B's.
I have been told different reports of how far these can
be machined;
one guy says 13G's are the max, another says 15G's.
The
one that said 13G's said I'd need to order his TD04L's, but I dont see
what a
larger turbine has to do with fitting a 15G.
I've found Mitsu numbers
which corresond to the TD04L's,
which differ from the factory
numbers.
These are 49177-00420 and 49177-00320.
Do these numbers imply
larger compressor housings?
What about the tried and tested max compressor
size I can upgrade to using
stock housings?
Thanks in
advance,
Noble
PS: Happy boosting!
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 09:53:40
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Update: Engine lockup
I just got the diagnosis on my 3000 from
the dealership. For those who
voted for a piece of the clutch lodged
against the flywheel, that's the
closest to what happened. It looks
like the release bearing came apart, and
a piece of it worked it's way into
the starter motor, locking it up. While
I was driving the car it ran
fine because the starter wasn't doing anything.
When I tried to start the car
again, the starter of course wouldn't turn,
but the attempted start got the
starter teeth stuck in the out position.
The frozen starter prevented the
flywheel from moving, which is why I
couldn't turn the crankshaft pulley by
hand.
So, it looks like I'm out a new clutch, a new starter, and
possibly a new
flywheel. This is particularly annoying because I JUST
replaced the starter
2 months ago. Depeding on the extent of the damage
to the flywheel, they're
either going to resurface or replace it. I
guess 85k miles isn't a terrible
life for a clutch.
Now would
of course be an ideal time to drop in a non-OEM clutch if I so
chose.
I've always been pretty happy with the stock clutch (I have a
base
model)...any input on pros/cons of an aftermarket clutch?
Hey, at
least the engine isn't siezed!
- - Brian
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 12:56:02
-0400 (EDT)
From: John Stegall III <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Hybrid Charger
Okay, curious question. Just learned
something from the old man and his Porsche Boxster and I got curious as to if
they do something like this for our cars. He just got a
supercharger-turbocharger hybrid on his boxster; rather than twin-turboing
it. I don't know much about the specs or anything, since I've barely
gotten to look under the hood of the car, but sure enough the two different
chargers working off of the belt and exhaust of his car are there. Anyone
here know if anyone makes any hybrid chargers for our 3S cars? Or if our
cars can be twin turbocharged and supercharged at the same time?!? That
would be a killer combination... supercharger present, one wouldn't have to
worry about turbo-lag at all.
- --------------
John Stegall
III
1997 3000GT
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 12:06:09
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Update: Engine lockup
> Now would of course be an ideal
time to drop in a non-OEM
> clutch if I so chose. I've always been
pretty happy
> with the stock clutch (I have a base model)...any
input
> on pros/cons of an aftermarket clutch?
If the stock clutch
works for you, stay with that. If the stock clutch will
hold the power
you are making then there's no reason to upgrade.
> Hey, at least the
engine isn't siezed!
Came out lucky! Finally, a good luck story on
this list instead of a bad
luck story!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:10:06
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Update: Engine lockup
- ----- Original Message ----- From:
"Geddes, Brian J"
<
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
-
----------------snip------------
> Now would of course be an ideal time to
drop in a non-OEM clutch if I
so
> chose. I've always been pretty
happy with the stock clutch (I have a
base
> model)...any input on
pros/cons of an aftermarket clutch?
Hey, Brian,
Glad to hear the
damage is so "minor"... :-)
The stock clutch is excellent,
especially for our NT cars, but I wanted
something with a little more
positive grip. I got the RPS "Carbon Claw"
and couldn't be
happier. You can still slip it, but when you pop that
pedal, there is
no slip at all. My lady loves it too. It's a bit more
work in
stop-and-go traffic, but other than that, it's just what I
wanted. That
said, I'd have no problem putting in another stock clutch.
The Carbon Claw is
just a bit better for my purposes -
highly
recommended...
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 12:11:46
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hybrid Charger
> Anyone here know if anyone makes any
hybrid chargers
> for our 3S cars? Or if our cars can be
twin
> turbocharged and supercharged at the same time?!?
Nobody
makes anything like that for turbo 3/S cars... Probably makes some
sort
of sense on something like a Boxster that comes with a wimpy motor in
the
first place but when you start with something putting out 300 HP
a
supercharger would only be a restriction in the intake
path.
Besides, where would you put it? There's NO room under the
hood that's
in-line with the accessory belts to run a supercharger.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 11:33:34
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo Tech question
Well,
http://www.gt-pro.com has their 357 Magnum that
uses the stock TD04
housing. They call it the "17G killer" so this may
currently be the turbo with
the biggest turbine in the TD04
housing.
> After long hard hours, I managed to rip off the factory
turbos myself
> without lifting the entire engine :)
>
> I
have a few questions regarding the compressor housings on the stock
>
TD04-9B's.
> I have been told different reports of how far these can be
machined;
> one guy says 13G's are the max, another says 15G's.
>
> The one that said 13G's said I'd need to order his TD04L's, but I dont
see
> what a larger turbine has to do with fitting a 15G.
>
>
I've found Mitsu numbers which corresond to the TD04L's,
> which differ
from the factory numbers.
> These are 49177-00420 and 49177-00320.
>
> Do these numbers imply larger compressor housings?
> What about
the tried and tested max compressor size I can upgrade to using
> stock
housings?
- --
Could you drive any better if I shoved that cell phone
up your a**?!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 19:05:58
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rotor Update
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh
<
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
kalla@tripoint.org <
kalla@tripoint.org>; Team3S
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, October 09, 2000 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotor
Update
. The best bang for the buck is Brad Bedells Porsche Big
Red
>caliper upgrade with one-piece rotors at $1500. Terry at KVR
suggests that
the
>Porsche 928 caliper would be a better caliper for
our heavy cars than the
Big
>Red. A kit with 928 calipers and a
two-piece rotor with Porsche 322mm disk
I thought the 993 calipers were
from the 928-s4
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#289
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