team3s
Friday, October 6
2000
Volume 01 : Number
285
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:43:14 +0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: back-up radar
Yep I fitted a system a few days ago and so far
it's great. The system is
called Park Boy III and has 3 sensors. I am also
upgrading the system next
week to use a CCD camera from Toad so I will let
you all know how it went.
BTW the Toad camera can also be used to "snap" a
thief in action and
transmit to the feds via mobile. Kool or what.
http://www.in-pro.de/inpro_englisch/rahmen_home.htmleMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comFax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Matthews
Sent: 05 October 2000 16:30
To: Team3S Technical
Forum
Subject: Team3S: back-up radar
Has anyone looked into a back-up
rader system that could be retrofitted to
our
cars? Not sure about
the rest of you, but I find it difficult to know where
the
back of my
Stealth is when reversing (not sure if the 3000GT body compares).
The garages
over here in Germany are cramped and it would be a lot easier to
park had I a
way to know exactly how close the rear bumper is from the wall,
shelving,
tools, or other implements of potential destruction!
Looking at late
model BMWs, Mercedes and Volvos, OEM systems seem to consist
of
five or so
little sensors embedded in the bumper (not sure why they aren't
better
concealed) and some kind of feedback system mounted in the dash.
A
colleague just ordered a new Volvo XC and the option was about $500.
Seems
like
it wouldn't be too difficult or expensive to add...
Here
are a few URLs I found... anyone have experience with any of these?
http://home.flash.net/~outdoor1/http://guardianalert.com/index.htmThanks!
-Jim (wanting all the new toys)
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich,
Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPH)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors,
RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 20:09:01
GMT
From: "marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Two Question's 1. Pass Fender 2. Humming sound
Hi
Everyone,
I hope some one can help me out, I have two questions; I have a
94 SL with
almost 37,000 miles on it. My first question is
1.
The other day I went to change my oil before I put it into storage and I
went to lift the hood and the two bolts that hold down the strut that keeps
the hood up broke (I hope that makes sense). I told my car to Mitsu
today
and I was told it would need about 500 dollars to fix. They
wanted to
replace my passenger side fender and the inner fender panel that
the fender
screws into. I laughed at the service manger and ask why I
need a new
fender when there is nothing wrong with the fender. He said
that the fender
comes from Mitsubishi with the fender shield mounted to the
fender. I then
asked him “Why would Mitsubishi put 5 bolts to hold the
fender onto the
car?” He said “That there fake bolts and can not be
remove”. So I then got
my 12 mm (I think is was 12 mm or 14mm) socket
and wrench out and unscrewed
the five bolts in front of him and about 5
customers waiting and said “Can
you explain why Mitsubishi will used fake
bolts when these look real to me?”
The service Manger walk away from
me and 3 other customers left too. Also
they were laughing when the
service manger left.
My question is, I believe I can drill the broken
bolts out and put new bolts
in. Is it hard to remove the fender if I
want to replace the inner fender
shield and not drill the bolts out?
If I’m not mistaken there is 5 bolts
that hold the fender down when you pop
the hood, there’s 1 bolt that is on
the passenger side door, and I think
there is 2 bolts that are kind of under
the headlight. (I’m not
talking about the black plastic wheel well, but the
red one that the fender
bolts in to). Sorry if that sounds confusing, kind
of still mad at the
Service Manger at Mitsubishi.
2. My second question is that I have a Mini
Disc player that I hook up to
the AUX jack on my stock infinity
headset. If I used the Mini Disc player
with the batteries it works
fine, but if I used it with my cigarette power
cord I get a humming.
When I hit the gas pedal the humming sound gets
louder, I think I have a bad
grounding somewhere any ideas? Also it happens
when I used a portable
cd player.
Thanks for any help and reading my kind of long post.
Marc
Augelli 1994
SL
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***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 17:59:38
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Parting out a 1992 3000VR4
Hey guys, I'm parting out a 1992
3000gt. White in color.
I have pretty much everything to sell
soon. If you need anything, let me
know privately.
Big bulky
items are preferred to be picked up.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 19:44:38
-0600
From: "Matthew H. Fogle" <
foglem@t-three.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Loose steering?
Hey, you guys have been a great help so far, let's go on
with the next
VR4 problem... a 91' and the steering seems to have a little
play in it.
Not enough to really worry about it, but enough to be VERY
annoying. I
have driven a friends 94 which the steering has 0 freeplay which
is how
I like it. Now i've been told this could be part of the AWS, but I
would
think it's a bushing or something. Anyone got a quick hint? And yes
I
have the backup manual CD if you want to refer me to a page! Thanks!
-
-Matthew Fogle
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 22:08:06
EDT
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Engine or Exhaust noise
Hey guys, I think my car is falling
apart:-). All I have had to do since
I've gotten it is repair, but
thanks to you guys it has been a much more
pleasant experience. But I
do have another question. When I start my car
when it is cold and
start driving it makes a really low piched noise which
sounds like either a
loud engine or loud exhaust. Kinda like what my last
car sounded like
when it had a cracked flex tube. Along with this I have a
lack of
power in 1st gear. But as soon as I make a run all the way through
my
gear box, not accelerating too much(until about 50) it acts normal as far
as
I can tell. Does anyone have a clue what is going wrong with my car
now?
Almost forgot, the engine is ticking now if that may be part of
the problem.
Thanks a lot,
Chris
1992 Dodge Stealth ES
DOHC
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 07:20:54
+0100
From: "Simon Jones" <
Team3S@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Two Question's 1. Pass Fender 2. Humming sound
Hi
Marc
>2. My second question is that I have a Mini Disc player that I
hook up to
>the AUX jack on my stock infinity headset. If I used the
Mini Disc player
>with the batteries it works fine, but if I used it with
my cigarette power
>cord I get a humming. When I hit the gas pedal
the humming sound gets
>louder, I think I have a bad grounding somewhere
any ideas? Also it
happens
>when I used a portable cd
player.
You're right, you've set-up a ground loop. Basically, when
you were running
from batteries, the only ground connection between your
mini-disc and the
car is through the audio lead. When you power the
mini-disc from the car,
you now have a ground loop, the first connection is
as before and the second
is through the power lead, which has ground and
power on it.
You have two options:
1. Try and
get hold of some "in-line" isolating transformers. You should
be able
to get them from an in-car audio equipment
specialist.
2. You could try cutting the ground wire in
your power wire. This _may_
work, but from an audio system point of
view is not good, since you are
carrying current through the audio signal
lead.
Hope this helps,
Simon Jones.
'94 GTO
http://www.3kgto.freeserve.co.uksimon.jones@soundcraft.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:31:19
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mitsubishi Logo
Has anyone got a part number for one of
these metal logos? I can't get it in
the UK for the Eclipse, if it's
available can anyone get one for me (cost?)
and ship
it.
eMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comFax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lorne Silkes [
mailto:vr4@cwia.com]
Sent: 06 October 2000
01:36
To: George Shaw
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mitsubishi
Logo
George:
I just stumbled across another copy of your message
that I replied to today.
I see that it was sent to Team3s and I'm pretty sure
I replied only to
Starnet so here is my response:
>
----------
> From: Lorne Silkes[
SMTP:vr4@cwia.com]
> Reply To:
stealth@starnet.net> Sent:
Thursday, 05 October, 2000 7:25 am
> To:
stealth@stls.verio.net> Subject:
MIts. emblem on front bumper
>
> A couple of days ago somebody was
inquiring about a replacement emblem for
> the soft plastic, faded one on
the front bumper.
>
> Well, I was driving behind a new Eclipse today
and it has what looks to be
> either a metal
> or shiny, hard
plastic emblem that looks to be the right size on the rear
of
> the car
right in the center where our trunk lock is.
>
>
>
Lorne
>
> __________Circle.com______________________
> Lorne
Silkes
>
- ----- Original Message -----
From: George Shaw <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:20 AM
Subject: Team3S: Mitsubishi
Logo
> Has anyone ever seen a Metal Mitsubishi badge for the front
of the 3K? The
> stock one is plastic and looks awful after a while with
the plastic having
> hairline cracks. If there is not a metal one
available, I may be tempted
to
> get one made in brass with Red
diamonds enamelled within a Gold outline,
> having seen the Honda and
Lexus badge in Gold it looks the biz. If I can
get
> these made, is
anyone interested in buying one? I have no idea of price
yet.
> It may
even be possible to get one made like the Team 3 S logo. This would
> have
to fit inside the bonnet/hood indent. Either stick on as the original
> or
bolt through to stop thieving toe rags making off with them. In
the
mean
> time I will have to get a plastic one from Mitsubishi until
I get one or
> make one.
>
>
eMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
>
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162 5179
>
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062 8924
>
ICQ#:
1741675
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:33:39
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: back-up radar
Check out
http://www.clarion.co.uk/ssight.asp
this is the system I am
fitting at the weekend. You said you wanted all the
new
toys:)
eMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comFax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Matthews
Sent: 05 October 2000 16:30
To: Team3S Technical
Forum
Subject: Team3S: back-up radar
Has anyone looked into a back-up
rader system that could be retrofitted to
our
cars? Not sure about
the rest of you, but I find it difficult to know where
the
back of my
Stealth is when reversing (not sure if the 3000GT body compares).
The garages
over here in Germany are cramped and it would be a lot easier to
park had I a
way to know exactly how close the rear bumper is from the wall,
shelving,
tools, or other implements of potential destruction!
Looking at late
model BMWs, Mercedes and Volvos, OEM systems seem to consist
of
five or so
little sensors embedded in the bumper (not sure why they aren't
better
concealed) and some kind of feedback system mounted in the dash.
A
colleague just ordered a new Volvo XC and the option was about $500.
Seems
like
it wouldn't be too difficult or expensive to add...
Here
are a few URLs I found... anyone have experience with any of these?
http://home.flash.net/~outdoor1/http://guardianalert.com/index.htmThanks!
-Jim (wanting all the new toys)
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich,
Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPH)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors,
RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 02:31:53
-0700
From: "Jose Soriano" <
Amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Kuhmos revisited
> Well, you could mark the -3 degree
settings, then set the camber close to
0 for
> the drive. Then at
the track you could reset to the -3 marks. It is
probably
> OK to
not have the Camber on both sides perfectly equal.
That won't work for
saving your tires.... when you adjust camber, you change
toe as well.
Excessive toe has just as bad side effects on wear as
camber
does....
Jose Soriano
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 06:18:46
-0600
From: "The Hedonist" <
rboehner@dimensional.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT wanted to buy
Hi,
Looking for a Mit factory bra set for
a 95,Vr4..
if you have one forsale please contact me email off
list
Thanks,
Roger
rboehner@dimensional.com95
vr4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 07:13:38
-0700
From: Leonard Dy <
LDy@acssys.com>
Subject: Team3S: HKS EVC
IV good or bad?
I have the oppurtunity to buy an EVC IV and need any
input good or bad.
I've only heard good things about the Blitz and Apex here
but nothing on the
HKS. If there is anyone out there who has one or is
familiar with these
units please let me know your opinion of it. Info
on the ease of use,
programming, and ultimately performance would be
great. I don't want to
pass up a good deal if it's performance is up to
par.
Thanks guys,
Len
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 09:55:35
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Kuhmos revisited
> > Well, you could mark the -3 degree
settings, then set the camber close to
> 0 for
> > the
drive. Then at the track you could reset to the -3 marks. It
is
> probably
> > OK to not have the Camber on both sides
perfectly equal.
>
> That won't work for saving your tires.... when
you adjust camber, you change
> toe as well. Excessive toe has just as bad
side effects on wear as camber
> does....
Yes, changing camber will
change toe. However, it might not be for the worse or
it might only be
very slight. Especially if you change camber with the Ground
Control
Camber/Castor adjustment Plates. The best thing would be to have
your
alignment shop dial in track AND street alignment settings with marks
that you
can switch between at the track. At worst case, you might also
have to turn the
toe adjust rods, but the alignment shop should be able to
tell you IF turns are
required and how many turns (and the direction) are
necessary. It should be
do-able however.
Have fun at the
track,
Ken
- --
Could you drive any better if I shoved that cell phone
up your a**?!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 12:04:07
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: HKS EVC IV good or bad?
> I have the oppurtunity to buy an
EVC IV and need any input
> good or bad. I've only heard good
things about the Blitz
> and Apex here but nothing on the HKS. If
there is anyone
> out there who has one or is familiar with these
units
> please let me know your opinion of it. Info on the
ease
> of use, programming, and ultimately performance would be
>
great. I don't want to pass up a good deal if it's
> performance is
up to par.
I have one in my car... I'd say that the performance is
similar to the
other electronic boost controllers out there. The
calibration mode is a
little tricky to get a good response curve out of it,
and I found myself
manually adjusting the offset to get the boost to climb
quicker. It is a
little bit spikey set up that way, but short 1-2 psi
spikes aren't harmful.
Once you get it set up, you can adjust boost pressure
in increments of .05
kg/cm2.
It also has a setting for overtake boost
where you can press a button on it
and run higher boost for a period of time
that you program. You set both
the level of additional boost and the
duration manually. It also has an
alarm for overboost, which you can
also program the setting of. If it goes
over your maximum you can have
it turn boost control off, returning you to
wastegate-controlled boost (6-8
psi).
A decent unit, although usually pricey. It is too wide to fit
in one of the
center vents, which is a bit of a disappointment. Mine
sits in the center
console, but I would prefer to have something that would
fit in plain view
but not "hanging out".
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:40:04
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MoTeC Article
There is a good article on the MoTeC 48 in this
months Banzai mag. If anyone
wants, I can scan it and email, or stick it on a
Web
Site.
eMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comFax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 15:01:01
-0400
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: wire set
Here comes another silly question from a guy that
doesn't know shit (yet)
about his car... I have been looking around to get me
a new spark plug wire
set, and based on popular opinion I decided to get
magnicore. Now here comes
the dumb question: I went on a couple of sites and
some of them split
stealths into 12 and 24 valve engines. I have a '92
Stealth NA and was
wondering how many valves do I have? I looked at the
manual and found no
help there, so I am asking you to help me out here. Also,
I have a
distributor instead of coils like many of you suggested, so this
should also
help in deciding which wire set I need. Well, I thank you in
advance and
hope not to get any militant answers (again:). Also, could you
give me a
part number for those wires if possible.
Thanks a
million!
Dusan
'92 Stealth
- -K&N FIPK
- -Advil Bottle
;)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 13:46:57
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: wire set (and 12v or 24v...)
- ----- Original Message ----- From:
"Dusan R. Simovic"
<
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
-
----------------snip---------------
> the dumb question: I went on a
couple of sites and some of them split
> stealths into 12 and 24 valve
engines. I have a '92 Stealth NA and was
> wondering how many valves do I
have? I looked at the manual and found
no
> help there, so I am asking
you to help me out here.
Hey, Dusan,
You should be able to figure
out which model you have from the Spec
Chart on our website:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQ-Specs1.htmYou
can determine out how many valves your engine has by opening the
hood!
The engines are marked with HUGE letters telling you 12v or 24v.
If it's 24,
you have an RT or ES; if it's 12, you have the Base
model.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#285
*********************