team3s
Tuesday, October 3
2000 Volume 01
: Number
282
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Oct 2000 17:22:34 -0400 (EDT)
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Team3S: Apexi
AVC-R almost done -- RPM wire problem!
Hello Team,
My brother and
I finally installed the Apexi AVC-R electronic boost
controllers on our 94 TT
and 95 VR4with the help of a few Detroit 3S
members (Jeff Williams, Mike
Forest, and Paul Prentis especially).
Also, thanks to all that replied to our
many questions and guided us
allong the installation process (especially Ken
Middaugh and Bill
Buckingham).
The units are both in the cars now and
ALMOST working properly. My RPM
indication does not look right on my
car. The numbers goe up
progressively as I rev the engine, but
nevetherless they are not the
appropriate numbers.
Here is a
skematic of where I connected all the wires. What you are
looking at is
the back of the connectors as they are plugged into the
ECU.
ENGINE
26
pin 16 pin 12pin 22
pin
BOTTOM 1XXXXXXXXXXXX|4XXXXXXX|XXXXXX|XXXXXXXXXXX
TOP
XXXXXXXXXXX23|XXXXXXXX|X5XXXX|XX6X7XXXXXX
RADIO
KEY:
1 Injector --> going to Purple on AVC-R
2 Power
--> Red
3 Ground --> Black
4 or 5 RPM (I don't remember which I
plugged it in) --> Purple
6 Throtle --> Gray
7 Speed -->
White
I installed a toggle switch between the RPM and INJECTOR
connections on
the ECU and the purple wire from the AVC-R. Here is the
schematic.
ENGINE
26
pin 16 pin 12pin 22
pin
BOTTOM 1XXXXXXXXXXXX|4XXXXXXX|XXXXXX|XXXXXXXXXXX
TOP
XXXXXXXXXXX23|XXXXXXXX|X5XXXX|XX6X7XXXXXX
RADIO
1 4 or
5
|
|
SWITCH
|
|_RPM_____________X
|
/
|
X--------------(purple wire from
AVCR)
|
\
|_______INJECTOR________X
"\ or /" indicates a switch. Only one
of two positions is selected at any
one time.
I cannot tune the car by
gears until i figure out how to properly hook up
the RPM wire. I
believe the chart in the APEXI manual was of a 1st gen TT
and not 2nd
gen. I had to use my intuition to hook up the RPM wire(guess
I got it
wrong). My brother's RPM signal doesn't work at all on the
AVC-R, but
I'm sure if I can figure my car out, I can also fix his RPM
problem. If
anyone has a 2nd gen TT/VR4/GTO, please send me an
e-mail/pic/schematic of
where to tap in for the RPM wire. I have Vinet's
3S CD if you want to
reffer me to a particular page in the manual, but so
far I have been
unsuccessful in tracing it.
Thanks a million everybody.
-
-MIKE-
95 Red VR4
brother - John
94 Pearl Yellow TT
Detroit
Metro Area
Michigan
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:57:52
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Top end knocking on VR4
heh. I was reading this and I was
thinking about the problem that I had.
Then I noticed my name.
=)
Well, the sound ended up being a spun rod bearing. I was hoping it
was
something in the head or carbon buildup, but deep down in my heart I knew
it
was the bottom end. If your problem is a rod bearing, the bearing
is
beginning to go bad right now, and eventually it will just "spin" and
all
hell will break loose.
I ended up replacing the shortblock because
my crank was scratched up and I
didn't see a reason to spend $2500+ on a
rebuild of that 150k mile engine
when M&S recycling was selling brand-new
factory 93+ shortblocks for $2k.
The newer engines have larger, stronger,
coated cranks and of course, a
4-bolt main as opposed to the relatively
weaker 2-bolt main. So I did the
"conversion" and now my car runs like
a dream.
I think the bearing went bad because I accidently let the engine
get more
than 2 quarts low on oil. After that, the slight knocking
started. Or
maybe it was just that engine's "time."
Hope that
helps.
Chris
92 R/T TT
>Chris, could you help? Thanks in
advance.
>
>
kent@rosemail.rose.hp.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 20:40:47
EDT
From:
Topofwrld1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
locked out of my glove compartment
In a message dated Sun, 1 Oct
2000 6:36:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
writes:
<<
anyone know how to "jimmy" it open? I've even
thought about drilling out the lock cylinder, but I'm not sure if it will gain
me anything.
any thoughts?
>>
Mine did the same thing without
locking it. One dealer wanted megabucks to go in from behind the dash.
Another dealer tried unsucessfully but charged me anyway. Locksmith didn't want
to try.
So I ordered the lock and the wire latch. When they came in, I
carefully pryed the lid open a bit and used a hack saw blade to cut off the wire
latch. I wrapped some tape around part of the blade to minimize the chance of
cutting the lid. Then I replaced both parts.
I still have the old parts
so may use the other poster's idea of swapping the cores to get back to a one
key system. However with the current system I can lock the glovebox and still
give the ignition key to my friendly 5 star Dodge dealer.
Dennis in
Denver
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 07:01:42
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
[Fwd: Team3S: locked out of my glove compartment]
Several of you asked me
to forward the below to you, so I'll just post it to the
list. Good
luck!
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlMiguel
Ramos wrote:
>
> Jim is right. I had to use a hack saw on the
metal bar hanging in a loop
> from
> from the top of the glove
compartment where the lock actually attaches
> itself.
> I was able
to pry open the box enough to get a good enough gap to access
> the
bar. I also used 2 pieces of sheet metal top and bottom so I
didn't
> cut up the finish of the box.
>
> You should be able
to cut through the bar in
> about 15 min or less. Just make sure
that YOU keep the old core and don't
> rely on anyone else to remember for
you. Where I took it I was getting
> other
> work done as well
and I just thought I'd have them install the lock
> mechanism
>
too. Well they just didn't listen, remember, care, write it down.
Just
> pick
> one. Now I have to have 2 keys with me although
I don't ever lock it
> anymore.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Regards from Wiesbaden, Germany
>
> Miguel Ramos
>
mjramos1@csi.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 21:59:43
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rotor Update
Hi Rich,
Congrats on the great life of the
Porterfields.
Couple a questions:
Are the Porterfields
directional --- are the veins
curved unlike the stock Mitsu
rotors??
What is the thickness?? 30 or 32mm
What is the dia?
315, 322?
I wanted to try the Hawk blue this season, but won't
get my
TT running til next season. I did try the Hawk
Gold (HB-184-GOL for
$185) but they transferred tooooo
much heat to the BIG REDS.
I will
check the outboard upper pistons and let you
know.
[snip}
> I
finally had to order a new set of Porterfield
> cryogenically treated
stock
> rotors.
>
> I am trying Hawk Blues this time.
> Attention Big Red caliper people: We noticed that
> the
upper outboard
> pistons on both calipers were showing definite
signs
> of seal damage.
> Rich
> 94 VR4
> Big Red
Porsche 993 twin turbo calipers
> Porterfield cyrogenically treated stock
rotors
Be of good cheer,
John
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 00:11:50
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: locked out of my glove compartment
wow. I didn't
expect so many responses. thank you all who took the
time to offer
suggestions.
in case anyone is curious, I ended up breaking the
upper u-shaped latch
by using a cheapie flat blade screwdriver as a
chisel. I must say I
cringed every time I smacked it with a
hammer. not the kind of mechanic
work I like to do to my black
beauty.
after getting it open, I realized all my attempts to pop the
latch with
a bent coat hanger were rediculous. they really did a good
job concealing
the mechanism.
anyway, it looks like something
came apart on the back of the lock
cylinder so the rod wasn't moving when
the key was turned. since it looks
like I'll need a new lock as well,
I could have drilled it out, but it
still might have been dificult to get it
open without being able to see
what I was trying to move inside.
someone told me the "posts" of the u-latch were weak metal, but
it
took some significant effort to break them free. If I had to do
it
again, I'd probably try the careful hacksaw method someone else
suggested.
thanks again to
everyone!
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 08:16:21
-0400
From:
ukyo@avana.netSubject:
Team3S: Need a little advice on a VR4
Hi guys,
I recently found a
'94 VR4 not too far from where I
work. It's dark green and has light
beige leather
interior. It has the manual crank sunroof. The
engine
pulls strong with no noticable knocking / ticking. The
transmission seems to have a slight problem with going
in to second
(syncro???). The paint is in decent
shape, but not great. The
interior has seen better
days with the driver seat needing to be totally
reworked. The carpet is stained in the back on both
sides (looks
like an oil or dark soda spill). The
stereo is in CODE mode, so I have
no idea if it even
works. The active areo works, I have no idea on the
power antenna. It has 17" rims (I thought VR4s were
supposed to
have 18"???) that look to be stock
Mitsubishi. The climate control
works fine. The power
door lock does not work on the passenger side,
nor does
the passenger inside door handel. They are asking
$14,995
for the car, but in the shape it's in I feel
that to be a little high.
Thing is it has been on the
lot for a while. They said that if it
doesn't move in
2 weeks that it is going to auction where they, "know
we
can get $15K out of it".
What do you guys think a car in this
shape would be
worth? I would like to toss out a number at them
before they ship it off. I don't mind putting some
work in to the
car to make it more like it should be,
but I don't want to drop $15K on a
fixer - upper.
Comments??? Thanks in advance...
-
--Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK - Resonator Bottle /
Red)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 07:26:35
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R problem
Richard <
radanc@home.com> wrote:
>
>
Air density might not matter, but oxygen clearly does which is more
>
sparse up there. Combustion dosn't work as well in low oxygen
>
conditions. My car always had lower performance and worked harder in
>
humid (East coast US) and high altitude conditions (ala colorado at 11K
>
feet or so). Do you have an EGT. what were the readings? I'll bet they
>
were verrry high.
>
> Rich
> 92 Stealth TT
Thanks for
the note. Unfortunately, I do not have an EGT, but I don't think
that
would indicate the problem in this case; on this most recent outing, I
was
driving the car very lightly and the odd behavior just kind of
appeared. I
understand that the air is thinner at higher elevations,
but I don't see why
that would cause the boost to "stick" at 7psi and then
abruptly jump to max
boost, and then later (higher in the mountains) to not
budge from 7psi at all.
In extreme situations, I would expect boost to build
more slowly (though still
smoothly) and perhaps not reach the max pressure
setting with the BADC set at
lower elevations.
- --
Jim Matthews -
Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPH)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors,
RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 07:17:30
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Top end knocking on VR4
Tang_Kenneth wrote:
>
> 1.
Is this a symptom of a common problem that I should look for
first?
You've probably already exhausted this possibility, but before you
dive in to
major repairs, make sure it's not the infamous Mitsubishi valve
lash adjuster
ticking from which most of us suffer. If you hold the
RPMs at 3500+ RPM for a
few seconds, does the ticking stop abruptly? If
so, then it's probably nothing
to worry about. If not,
then...
> 2. If (1) not what possible problems could this be, and
how do I trace it
> down. I am fairly competent
mechanic, rebuilt several engines in past.
...see Chris Maxwell's
post. :-(
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 08:05:44
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need a little advice on a VR4
> The transmission seems to
have a slight problem
> with going in to second (syncro???).
If the
problem is still slight, switching to a better tranny fluid (BG
Synchroshift
or Redline) may be all it needs.
> The interior has seen better days
with the
> driver seat needing to be totally reworked.
That's not
particularly encouraging... Shows that the previous owner(s)
didn't
give a damn about the car.
> It has 17" rims (I thought VR4s were
supposed to
> have 18"???) that look to be stock Mitsubishi.
'94
VR4s have 17" wheels, with the shiny chrome ones being optional.
> The
climate control works fine.
One of the few good things you've said about
it so far...
> The power door lock does not work on the
passenger
> side, nor does the passenger inside door handel.
> They
are asking $14,995 for the car, but in the
> shape it's in I feel that to
be a little high.
> Thing is it has been on the lot for a while.
>
They said that if it doesn't move in 2 weeks that
> it is going to auction
where they, "know
> we can get $15K out of it".
No way is
it worth $15,000 and they know that. If it is worth $15,000 at
auction,
then it is worth MORE than that on the lot - and they aren't
getting even
getting $15,000.
> What do you guys think a car in this shape would be
> worth? I would like to toss out a number at them
> before
they ship it off. I don't mind putting some
> work in to the car to
make it more like it should be,
> but I don't want to drop $15K on a
fixer - upper.
You forgot to mention the mileage on it, so its
difficult to throw out a
good number for you. I personally wouldn't pay
more than $10,000 for it if
the mileage is below 60,000. If it is above
that, adjust the number
downwards accordingly. Tires, alignment, brakes
all okay? No nasty leaks
underneath?
I'm going to guess it is
near 60,000 miles and the timing belt / water pump
work has not been done yet
since the car sounds neglected. With it in the
shape it is, whoever
traded it in probably didn't get much for it, so assume
that the dealer will
deal down pretty low just to move it.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 06:09:24
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need a little advice on a VR4
Travis,
Seriously, offer
them $8000; that's probably all they paid for it or
less! There is probably
no repair and maintenance history on this
"lot" car. Mileage? If the car has
been neglected as bad as you
indicate then the preventative maintenance for
the engine, turbos,
and drive train was probably not done either. Count on it
being a
fixer-upper and costing you $8-10K for moderate trany and
engine
rebuilds plus all the other repairs. Let hem get "$15K" for it
from
someone else and keep shopping.
Good luck,
Jeff Lucius,
3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
ukyo@avana.net>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 03, 2000 6:16 AM
Subject: Team3S: Need a little advice on a
VR4
Hi guys,
I recently found a '94 VR4 not too far from where
I
work. It's dark green and has light beige leather
interior. It has the manual crank sunroof. The engine
pulls
strong with no noticable knocking / ticking. The
transmission seems to
have a slight problem with going
in to second (syncro???). The paint
is in decent
shape, but not great. The interior has seen better
days with the driver seat needing to be totally
reworked. The
carpet is stained in the back on both
sides (looks like an oil or dark soda
spill). The
stereo is in CODE mode, so I have no idea if it even
works. The active areo works, I have no idea on the
power
antenna. It has 17" rims (I thought VR4s were
supposed to have 18"???)
that look to be stock
Mitsubishi. The climate control works
fine. The power
door lock does not work on the passenger side, nor
does
the passenger inside door handel. They are asking
$14,995 for
the car, but in the shape it's in I feel
that to be a little high.
Thing is it has been on the
lot for a while. They said that if it
doesn't move in
2 weeks that it is going to auction where they, "know
we
can get $15K out of it".
What do you guys think a car in this
shape would be
worth? I would like to toss out a number at them
before they ship it off. I don't mind putting some
work in to the
car to make it more like it should be,
but I don't want to drop $15K on a
fixer - upper.
Comments??? Thanks in advance...
-
--Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK - Resonator Bottle /
Red)
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 09:18:27
-0400
From:
ukyo@avana.netSubject:
Re: Team3S: Need a little advice on a VR4
Some important things I forgot
to mention:
63,296 miles (about 30 of those are mine). :)
Chrome
rims.
Missing the button that switchs the exhaust or
suspension (I don't
know which button is which...
button that is still mounted reads ECS and is
on the
dash near the tach.)
Missing lighter (no biggie).
Missing
hatchback sliding cover.
Does have the sunroof removable cover.
:)
Missing jack.
Looks like it has great tires on it (forgot brand
name).
Located in Austell, Georgia (just out side of Atlanta).
I
wouldn't mind buying the car and putting a little
(lot) of TLC into it, but
I don't want to dump a lot of
money in a dog that is going to bite me in the
wallet
every time I turn around. :)
Sorry if this comes through
twice...
- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK - Resonator Bottle
/ Red)
> Hi guys,
>
> I recently found a '94 VR4 not too
far from where I
> work. It's dark green and has light beige
leather
> interior. It has the manual crank sunroof. The
engine
> pulls strong with no noticable knocking / ticking.
The
> transmission seems to have a slight problem with going
>
in to second (syncro???). The paint is in decent
> shape, but not
great. The interior has seen better
> days with the driver seat
needing to be totally
> reworked. The carpet is stained in the back
on both
> sides (looks like an oil or dark soda spill). The
>
stereo is in CODE mode, so I have no idea if it even
> works. The
active areo works, I have no idea on the
> power antenna. It has 17"
rims (I thought VR4s were
> supposed to have 18"???) that look to be
stock
> Mitsubishi. The climate control works fine. The
power
> door lock does not work on the passenger side, nor
does
> the passenger inside door handel. They are asking
>
$14,995 for the car, but in the shape it's in I feel
> that to be a little
high. Thing is it has been on the
> lot for a while. They said
that if it doesn't move in
> 2 weeks that it is going to auction where
they, "know
> we can get $15K out of it".
>
> What do you guys
think a car in this shape would be
> worth? I would like to toss out
a number at them
> before they ship it off. I don't mind putting
some
> work in to the car to make it more like it should be,
> but I
don't want to drop $15K on a fixer - upper.
>
> Comments???
Thanks in advance...
>
> --Travis
> '97 3000GT (Base + K&N
FIPK - Resonator Bottle / Red)
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 08:48:38
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R problem
Jim,
I know you've had the AVC-R
installed for awhile. I wonder if the solinoid
is getting dirty.
We all now that it is common to get filmy oil in the
Y-pipe. This same
oil can easily make it to the AVC-R solinoid. Especially
if its been
installed for a couple of years. Didn't Roger take his Blitz
solinoid
apart?? Maybe he can offer some insight as far as taking it
apart.
With your symtoms, thats the only thing that would make sense to
me.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: Jim
Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
>To:
Team3S Technical Forum <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R problem
>Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 07:26:35
+0200
>
>Thanks for the note. Unfortunately, I do not have an
EGT, but I don't
>think
>that would indicate the problem in this
case; on this most recent outing, I
>was
>driving the car very
lightly and the odd behavior just kind of appeared. I
>understand
that the air is thinner at higher elevations, but I don't see
>why
>that would cause the boost to "stick" at 7psi and then
abruptly jump to max
>boost, and then later (higher in the mountains) to
not budge from 7psi at
>all.
>In extreme situations, I would expect
boost to build more slowly (though
>still
>smoothly) and perhaps
not reach the max pressure setting with the BADC set
>at
>lower
elevations.
>
>--
>Jim Matthews - Munich,
Germany
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 08:51:57
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need a little advice on a VR4
> I wouldn't mind buying the car
and putting a little
> (lot) of TLC into it, but I don't want to dump a
lot of
> money in a dog that is going to bite me in the wallet
>
every time I turn around. :)
You should pass on this car. There
will be other vr-4s to see and
buy. It sounds to me like the last owner
didn't give a damn about it.
$15,000 would be about right if it was in
perfect shape.
My '93 vr-4 was $13,000. It was really really dirty, and
needed a
tune up. I took care of all that, and spent a week cleaning it.
It's
doing fine now. Anything more wrong with it, and I would have
passed.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:20:20
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mitsubishi Logo
Has anyone ever seen a Metal Mitsubishi badge
for the front of the 3K? The
stock one is plastic and looks awful after a
while with the plastic having
hairline cracks. If there is not a metal one
available, I may be tempted to
get one made in brass with Red diamonds
enamelled within a Gold outline,
having seen the Honda and Lexus badge in
Gold it looks the biz. If I can get
these made, is anyone interested in
buying one? I have no idea of price yet.
It may even be possible to get one
made like the Team 3 S logo. This would
have to fit inside the bonnet/hood
indent. Either stick on as the original
or bolt through to stop thieving toe
rags making off with them. In the mean
time I will have to get a plastic one
from Mitsubishi until I get one or
make
one.
eMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.comFax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 08:07:36
-0700
From: "Connelly, Jay" <
jay.connelly@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R problem
I do recall that one of the selling points of
the AVC-R was that it
maintained boost pressure based on atmospheric
conditions - e.g. - it had
some sort of a pressure sensor that adjusted the
internal pressure based on
the outside pressure. I am not certain where
exactly this unit is but it
seems like it could be a piece of your problem
and perhaps a piece of mine.
Does this ring a bell with anyone
else?
Jay
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 10:18:01
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need a little advice on a VR4
>l They said that if it
doesn't move in
>2 weeks that it is going to auction where they, "know
>we can get $15K out of it".
Bull.
>
>What do
you guys think a car in this shape would be
>worth?
$8000,
especially since it needs a new tranny (yes, the 2nd gear synchro is
shot),
interior work, etc. I saw a 91 in the same kind of shape for $6995
earlier
this year.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 10:31:10
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need a little advice on a VR4
At 09:18 AM 10/3/00 -0400,
ukyo@avana.net wrote:
>Some important
things I forgot to mention:
>>63,296 miles (about 30 of those are
mine). :)
Two things:
1. You DEFINITELY need 2nd gear
synchros. 60K is the usual mileage for a
2nd gear synchro
failure.
2. You also need the 60K tuneup, which includes timing gear,
water pump,
etc. This is $800+ at a dealer, less if you do it yourself.
Rich
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 08:46:42
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R problem
Yes, the AVC-R should be using a relative
pressure sensor. Thus it will need to
relearn for significant elevation
or atmospheric changes.
When I ran my bleeder valve, there were
noticiable differences boosting close to
work 1 mile from the coast and very
humid, then getting home at an elevation of
2000 feet, 20 miles inland, and
less humidity. The same bleeder setting would
change peak boost by
about 2 psi.
> I do recall that one of the selling points of the AVC-R
was that it
> maintained boost pressure based on atmospheric conditions -
e.g. - it had
> some sort of a pressure sensor that adjusted the internal
pressure based on
> the outside pressure. I am not certain where
exactly this unit is but it
> seems like it could be a piece of your
problem and perhaps a piece of mine.
>
> Does this ring a bell with
anyone else?
- --
Could you drive any better if I shoved that
cell phone up your a**?!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:41:05
-0400 (EDT)
From: John Stegall III <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New to 3S... help?!?
I'm new to the 3000GT/Stealth scene. I
just came up from an 1993 Talon. I'm hoping to get some help on a few
things. I live in Alta Loma, Ca and work in Newport Beach, Ca. So
far, I've searched the internet and phone books and haven't found a shop that
works on these cars yet. Anyone on this list live near either areas and
know of a good shop?
Before I go on to the next
question, don't take me wrong guys. Last list I was on I asked a similar
question and reamed for it (only later to prove everyone on the list
wrong). I'm no rice boy or anything like that, I'm just trying to work
with what I have and see what I can do to it.
My
next question, and this may seem like a stupid one... but has anyone here done a
3000GT base->VR-4 conversion? A friend of mine owns a 1996 3000GT (base
model) and he had a shop in Arizona rip out his SOHC engine and drop a VR-4
engine into it with stock turbos, same 5 speed tranny and only a few mods and
got the damn thing working. Now I know such could be done easily in the
eclipse line (I did it myself), but I don't know how easy or difficult it is in
the 3S line. My friend isn't the biggest car guy, so he's no help in
knowing what they did and the shop won't tell me shit unless I drive out there,
but I wanna do it myself. Anyone here pulled that conversion? If not, I do
want to at least drop the SL model DOHC engine and turbo-charge that. I
know, it's probably cheaper to trade my car in and go get a VR-4, but I WANT TO
DO THIS THE HARD WAY. Thanks for any help in advance.
John
1997
3000GT
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Personalized Email at Mail.com
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Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 10:04:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New to 3S... help?!?
John,
Check out the HUGE Links
page at my web site. Some shops are in CA.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: New to 3S...
help?!?
I'm new to the 3000GT/Stealth scene. I just came up from an
1993
Talon. I'm hoping to get some help on a few things. I live
in Alta
Loma, Ca and work in Newport Beach, Ca. So far, I've searched
the
internet and phone books and haven't found a shop that works on
these
cars yet. Anyone on this list live near either areas and know of
a
good shop?
<snip>
John
1997
3000GT
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:04:42
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New to 3S... help?!?
> Anyone here pulled that
conversion? If not, I do want
> to at least drop the SL model DOHC
engine and
> turbo-charge that. I know, it's probably cheaper
to
> trade my car in and go get a VR-4, but I WANT TO DO
> THIS THE
HARD WAY. Thanks for any help in advance.
You'll need a full motor,
turbos, both pre-cats, a downpipe, ECU, intake
setup, turbo-calibrated MAF
sensor, intercoolers and mounting brackets,
boost control system, and a
higher flow fuel pump at a minimum. You might
need an SL tranny, I'm
not sure if the base model tranny bolts up, but the
SL uses the same block as
the VR4 so theoretically it should bolt on.
Expect to run into some
unexpected roadblocks and costs, but it should be
possible to do.
Doesn't sound cheap to me...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 12:54:07
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New to 3S... help?!?
>hat I have and see what I can do to
it.
> My next question, and this may seem like a
stupid one... but has
anyone here done a 3000GT base->VR-4
conversion? A friend of mine owns a
1996 3000GT (base model) and he had
a shop in Arizona rip out his SOHC
engine and drop a VR-4 engine into it
The easiest way is to contact
ukyo@avana.net, and see if he bought
that
clapped-out VR4 with the bad tranny for $8,000. If not, you could buy
it
and transfer all the good parts to your car. Probably cost about the
same
as buying all the parts separately (engine, turbos, intercoolers,
piping,
etc.)
So you went from a Talon to a 3000GT, eh?
I have a
VR4 and I just bought a Talon TSi AWD for a winter/rally/track car.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 16:27:13
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Unlimited Carfax, anyone?
Anyone out there have unlimited Carfaxs?
I
want to run a vin, and the preliminary "free" one wont even go
through
(???)
If so, please email me privately!
Thanks!
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester
(NY)
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#282
*********************