team3s
Monday, October 2
2000
Volume 01 : Number
281
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 1 Oct 2000 13:42:14 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Changed battery terminal and then everything goes dead...
put back
the old terminal and all is well.
strange...
Chris
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 16:19:59
-0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Changed battery terminal and then everything goes
dead...
Chris,
Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere or
a bad battery. Your
symptoms suggest that when you turn the key on, there's
enough juice
getting through to light the various lights and so forth, but as
soon as
you put the load of the starter on the system, there's not enough
amperage
to handle it. What little juice there is goes to the starter
and
everything else goes out.
I'd try taking the new "battery
terminal" (I assume you're referring to
the connector on your ground cable)
off the cable, buff up the cable end
with some sand paper so the metal is
shiny (also buff up the connector
where the cable attaches and the battery
terminal, you might also want to
do the same to the positive terminal), and
then re-install the connector.
If you still have the problem, then try a load
test on the battery and
also check the connection at the other ends of the
ground cables.
Steve
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 12:57:10
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Changed battery terminal and then everything goes dead...
I changed the
negative battery terminal today and then went to start the
car. I turn the
key and the usual lights and sounds start. I then turn it
to start and
everything goes dead. Nothing. Not one light in the car is
on.
I
check all the fuses (that I know about anyways) and they all seem fine.
I'm
confused. I checked the voltage on the battery and it said 12.5
volts
so I know that's okay. I'm going to check the manual right now to
see if
I
can turn up something. Anyone have any ideas as to what
this might be?
It's like the battery isn't
there...
Thanks,
Chris
92 R/T TT
btw, the battery terminals
are connected tight, so it's not that.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 16:35:09
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: locked out of my glove compartment
I feel really silly. I
usually never bother locking my glove compartment,
but I did last
night. I can't get it open. Feels like whatever
mechanism
connects to the key cylinder has detached. I can turn the key
to both
positions, but I get no resistance when I squeeze the opener-thingy
<tm>.
anyone know how to "jimmy" it open? I've even thought
about drilling out
the lock cylinder, but I'm not sure if it will gain me
anything.
any
thoughts?
TIA,
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black
3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 23:16:04
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RPS clutch problems continue!!
You were lucky; you got
a good one. :) The only reason I even sold the
clutch that was sitting
in my closet is because I shipped it to RPS after
you reported that the
clutch was working really well.
RPS sent me clutch that looked totally
different than their earlier
prototype units. I received my
clutch about 30days AFTER you(Jack) gave
us a thumbs-up for the clutch
in your car.
I chose to do the OS Giken clutch and sold the RPS unit that
I had. After
the clutch failed within 700 miles, I'm happy that I spent
the money on the
Giken clutch.
What I don't understand, is why
the clutch works awesome in what seems to be
about 20% of the cars out
there. The rest seem to fall apart. This sounds
like a
manufacturing issue and not a design issue.
Brad
Check out my home
page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of xwing
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 7:10 AM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS clutch problems continue!!
I have RPS
6 puck half carbon, half ceramic clutch with the stronger
pressure plate in
my 94 VR4, and have had no problems. Been to
drags and made >25 all
out passes so far. Holds better than their
previous designs, and
pressure plate is stronger--more pedal force
is required.
The older,
mistakenly weaker pressure plate held less, and I had
replaced that one
twice, and different disc designs.
Clutch holding force is related mainly
to 4 things:
1) pressure plate force in lbs
2) disc facing material
(friction coefficient) and design (pucks or full
face
etc)
3)
material used for pressure plate and flywheel (iron, has its
own
friction
coefficient).
4) disc diameter and number of
discs
ACT pressure plate will not be more than the 2900 lbs RPS
now
makes; it may be equal.
ACT material of disc--will it have higher
friction coefficient? Then
it will hold better. If not, then it
will NOT hold better.
ACT pressure plates are made of same material
(iron);
ACT disc diameter is the same.
Jack Tertadian
Oskar
wrote: snipped
> I am of a different opinion, and think that anyone
buying an RPS unit need
> to think twice before proceeding.
> It
would be nice if people that were happy with their stage III
RPS
clutches
> would speak up.
> People running moderate HP, as I
am, have been happy with stock clutches,
> and ACTs. I'll be
getting myself one of these instead.
> BTW - I referenced the stage III
unit thruout this e-mail because the
> problems I have heard of are all
related to the Stage III clutch. Maybe
the
> others are
ok?
> Oskar '95 R/T TT
>
> From: "Trevor L. James"
<
trevor@kscable.com>
> >
I don't think that's fair. Supposedly they've changed the
clutch
composition
>
> > since everyone was having problems. I
have an RPS stage II that I bought
> around
> > the 20th of April
& works great with about 420lbft or torque. No
slipping
>
during
> > launches or chattering around town. I've done quite a few
3.9X second
0-60's
>
> > with it according to my G-tech. Even
spun all 4 tires once for 30' just
to
> test
***
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 00:28:29
EDT
From: "brandon thomas" <
a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: upgrade time!!
I know you guys have some fast vr4s and rt/tt and
I was wondering on were I
should start on mine. I already have a k/n and I
am runing a fresh motor.
The motor was just rebuilt and has forged piston
and a .030 bore. My budget
is kinda tight right now but I am hoping to spend
$1000-$1200. I know I need
a boost controller but I am hoping you guys will
tell me the best one. What
else will help me the most?? I work for a
mechanic and we are building a
custom exhaust this sunday. We are planing on
running a true dual exhaust
with no cats. I was wondering what it would
sound like with no mufflers and
some resonated tips (not the 5" rice style)
Also if I put mufflers on it
what should i go with that don't cost a arm and
a leg like the borla
system??? Thank in advance I really apreciate
it!!!!!!!!!!
Brandon
Thomas
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:22:39
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R problem
Just an update on the problems I described
below. Yesterday I went on another
long drive in the Alps and
experienced the same behavior. This time there was
no rapid boost
precursor to the controller seemingly shutting off. I began
noticing
that rather than a smooth buildup of boost, the gauge would hang around
7 psi
(on the stock gauge) and then suddenly jump to 14 (with a nice
lurch
forward). Later, it stopped boosting completely, never exceeding
7 psi (except
at high RPMs). Again, nothing made a difference -
switching between A and B
mode, changing the max boost and/or BADC settings
to force the unit into learn
mode, turning the unit off and back on,
etc.
However, what I noticed this time is that it seemed to be directly
related to
ALTITUDE. During the descent, I noticed the sudden boost
jumps reappear, and
later the behavior returned completely to normal, with a
smooth buildup all the
way to the specified max pressure. Thinking
back, this seems consistent with
previous drives (below). What's going
on? Why would elevation matter? Is it
just coincidence?
Seems to me that the boost pressure sensor wouldn't care what
the air density
is, or at least the turbos would compensate. Any theories?
Also,
where the hell is Super Plus Bleifrei (98 Octane DIN (=93 Octane
US)
Unleaded) in Italy?! Every damn station I checked had three pumps:
diesel, 95
Octane Unleaded and 98 Octane Leaded (thank goodness they had the
larger
nozzels, or I would have ended up with coated O2 sensors). I had
to get 15
liters of 95 and drive like a pansy to get me back to the Austrian
border!
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPH)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors,
RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
Jim Matthews wrote:
>
> I recently encountered some strange behavior from my 1st gen. AVC-R as
well. I
> was driving up switchbacks in the Alps, downshifted to
first after a really
> tight hairpin and nailed it, the car pulled like
hell, I shifted to second, and
> boost maxed out at only .4 bar or so
(around 7 psi on stock gauge, growing
> slowly to near 14 at high
RPMs). No matter what I did, I could not build boost
> (setting A at
.95 @ 56% BADC). I switched to my B setting (1.00 bar @ 64% BADC)
>
and it made no difference. I turned off the controller and again,
no
> difference. I noticed that the unit was hot to the touch and
decided to shut it
> down for an hour or so. A quick look under the
hood exposed nothing suspect.
> When I returned from lunch, everything was
back to normal!
>
> The same thing happened later that day under
similar circumstances: I hammered
> 2nd gear rolling through a changing
traffic light, it boosted rapidly, then it
> shut itself down again.
Not sure what the problem was. It could have been that
> it
radically overshot my max boost setting (doubtful, since my BADC is
pretty
> conservative), it could have been heat (unit is mounted in the
armrest console
> sandwiched between the wall and a turbo timer) or it
could be related to my dead
> battery (since replaced with an Optima Red
Top). At any rate, this problem has
> yet to reoccur.
>
> The other oddity was drastic changes in BADC requirements.
Normally, 56% BADC
> will achieve .95 bar no problem, but a few times I
had to bump it up to the high
> 60% range. I blamed it on the
weather at the time (perhaps humidity and
> temperature were factors), but
perhaps something more sinister was going on. Or
> maybe it was all
related to the dead battery - as with the above, I have not
> experienced
this since installing the Optima.
>
> Good
luck... -Jim
>
> --
> Jim Matthews -
Munich, Germany
>
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
>
http://www.the-matthews.com>
> *** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html>
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:07:51
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: locked out of my glove compartment
This happened to a colleague
of mine on his '92 VR-4. I think a plastic piece
(always the weakest
link!) that connects the core to the arm that activates the
latch had snapped
off, and he had to cut the mechanism with a hack saw blade to
open the door
and gain access to the parts to replace. The repair kit came with
a new
core, but he could have used the original core (so that he wouldn't
need
another key) had Mitsu not discarded it (duh). He is not a list
member, but
I'll ask him to send you a note with the specifics.
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 05:43:11
-0400 (EDT)
From: "Andrew C. Ohnstad" <
andy@andysaudio.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: locked out of my glove compartment
Could you also ask him to copy
me on those specifics? I have managed to
do the same thing to
mine. :(
=-=Andrew C. Ohnstad, CCNA
"Traveling At The Speed of
Thought" --- Teenage FanClub
On Mon, 2 Oct 2000, Jim Matthews
wrote:
> This happened to a colleague of mine on his '92 VR-4. I
think a plastic piece
> (always the weakest link!) that connects the core
to the arm that activates the
> latch had snapped off, and he had to cut
the mechanism with a hack saw blade to
> open the door and gain access to
the parts to replace. The repair kit came with
> a new core, but he
could have used the original core (so that he wouldn't need
> another key)
had Mitsu not discarded it (duh). He is not a list member, but
>
I'll ask him to send you a note with the specifics.
>
> --
>
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
>
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
>
http://www.the-matthews.com>
> *** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html>
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 11:16:35
-0400
From: Rick Diogo <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Import Shootout @ Moroso
This weekend was the import shootout at
Moroso in West Palm Beach,FL. It
was sad to see that there were only
(2) 3000GT's at the event. One was a
front wheel drive (non-turbo)
model and the other was a 95 Twin Turbo
Vr-4. The TT car just showed
the car (no racing) and the front wheel drive
car was actively racing all
day. I find it hard to believe that there are
only two worthy cars in
our area. Sad to see. I was surprised that Bob
Fontana was
not there.
Oh well....
Take Care,
Rick
ex-94 R/T twin turbo
owner
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 10:30:35
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Need Broken part photos
Jeff Lacina (slow 'ol farmer dude) over
on the Open Track list is looking
for photos of broken parts. I can't find
the photos of the broken rotors
that the folks up in Minneapolis sent me a
while ago.
If you have the photos, please send one or two to:
Jeff.Lacina@garstseedco.com or to
Stanger58@aol.com.
along with a
brief explanation of pieces of junk those slotted rotors are.
Any body
else who has photos of broken parts (from racing, of course) can
send them
along, too.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 11:29:47
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need Broken part photos
http://mn3s.org/brainard-racing99.htmlComplete
pictures of Oskar's Stillen cross drilled rotors breaking at the
hubs.
And a pic of some melted Stillen metal matrix pads.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Need Broken part photos
>Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 10:30:35
-0500
>
>Jeff Lacina (slow 'ol farmer dude) over on the Open Track
list is looking
>for photos of broken parts. I can't find the photos of
the broken rotors
>that the folks up in Minneapolis sent me a while
ago.
>
>If you have the photos, please send one or two
to:
>
>
Jeff.Lacina@garstseedco.com or to
Stanger58@aol.com.
>
>along
with a brief explanation of pieces of junk those slotted rotors
are.
>
>Any body else who has photos of broken parts (from racing,
of course) can
>send them along, too.
>
>Rich/old
poop
>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 10:06:13
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: San Diego gathering, Oct. 22
Hi everyone,
Information
about the Oct. 22, 2000 San Diego gathering can be found at the
Westcoast
3000GT Stealth Alliance site,
http://w3sa.50megs.com/,
under
itinerary. Everyone interested should read this ASAP and
send me your
reservation soon! Also notice the deadlines, they might
apply to you if you
want me to mail you passes/tickets. Hopefully we
can get good attendence from
you South West folks! It should be fairly
easy to get a dozen and a half
attendees.
Please contact me directly
with questions, suggestions, and of course your
RSVP. We'll update the
web page frequently so you can see a current list of
attendees. Don't
delay, make plans now!
- --
Could you drive any better if I shoved
that cell phone up your a**?!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 13:14:56
EDT
From:
Sportsmobile101@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Radio question...
Hi every one, i been having a problem
with my stereo lately, it sounds like
there is loose connection somewhere,
but i've checked all the wires, I
cleaned and tightened up the wires in the
back of the stero and am still
having the problem. I just noticed this
week that the stero works fine when
its cold, after being on for a bout 15
minutes its starts doing it again.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanx in advance. By the way this is
Chris, my e-mail used to be
playenfun.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:33:28
-0400
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: spark plugs...
How much difference would good spark plugs make
over "normal" ones? And what
spark plugs would be the best for my '92
Stealth?
Thanks!
Regards
Dusan
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 11:05:35
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Radio question...
> Hi every one, i been having a
problem with my stereo lately, it sounds like
> there is loose connection
somewhere, but i've checked all the wires, I
> cleaned and tightened up
the wires in the back of the stero and am still
> having the
problem. I just noticed this week that the stero works fine when
>
its cold, after being on for a bout 15 minutes its starts doing it
again.
> Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanx in advance.
By the way this is
> Chris, my e-mail used to be playenfun.
I had
similar symptoms on a Ford Ranger stereo once. It turned out to be
loose
connections or cold solder joints on the power supply chips. I
just took it to
a local radio repair shop and they diagnosed and resoldered
the chips. If you
or a buddy are handy with a soldering iron, you could
try it out fairly easily.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Could you drive
any better if I shoved that cell phone up your a**?!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 12:26:23
-0500
From: Gabriel Estrada <
typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Burning Smell
Ok, I am getting a burning smell coming from the
engine compartment. Took
it to local dealer and had turbo oil return
lines replaced, valve cover
gaskets replaced, input shaft seal
replaced. Had some visible leaks and
this has taken care of that.
Now after I drive it and park in the garage, I
am getting a gurgling sound
from the radiator cap and this smell.
Not low on coolant, oil, or tranny
fluid. All things seem to be ok but the
smell. Any help or
suggestions. Have 72k on car and 60k service was
completed on
time.
TIA
Gabe Estrada
94 Pearl Yellow VR-4
92 GMC
Typhoon
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 11:22:41
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
y-pipe rubber fix?
I know that some of you have had this problem before
so I was
wondering if you could help me out. The y-pipe blew off twice
and
doesn't want to stay on. The outer lip on the rubber piece
that
connects to the throtttle body has a tear in it now and that is
what
I need fixed. Dealer says I have to get the whole Y-pipe which is
$75
but I figured I would give it a quick fix that can hold for a
couple
months until I save up some money for a better one, can
you
help?Thanks
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:44:45
EDT
From:
XCricKX@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: San Diego gathering, Oct. 22
count me in
***
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 12:09:38
PDT
From: Tang_Kenneth <
kent@rosemail.rose.hp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Top end knocking on VR4
Car: 93 VR4 US 68K mi
Problem:
Engine started knocking about 2000 to 3000rpm and seems to be
getting worse.
The knock comes from front bank top-end (air filter
side).
Engine starts and runs easily.
If I sit in car, it sounds like
bottom of engine. If I open hood it sounds
like top of engine.
It
is NOT timing belt/h20pump/alternator/ac/steering/transmission/clutch
It is
not gas, as I have tried several Premium brands.
It is not noticeable at
exhaust outlet if you listen there.
It is not a click like valves, but more
like rod or piston (heavier sound) frequency.
It does not get quieter when
engine is hot.
The knocking is loudest when at idle.
It seems to change
but I don't know what the reasons.
1. Is this a symptom of a common
problem that I should look for first?
2. If (1) not what possible
problems could this be, and how do I trace it
down. I am fairly
competent mechanic, rebuilt several engines in past.
thanks for your
help.
BTW, I have search for this in archive and it may be similar to
a
problem posted by Chris Maxwell. But his thread died without a
conclusion. Chris, could you help? Thanks in advance.
kent@rosemail.rose.hp.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 15:36:30
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: West Coast DSM Shootout
For those of you who live towards the
west coast and couldn't make it to the
Ohio Diamond Star Shootout, Diamond
Star Specialties is organizing a west
coast version. There's more
information here:
http://www.vfaq.com/Shootout/index.html11/18
is the DSM Shootout (Talons, Eclipses, Lasers, Galant VR4 and GSX,
and
Stealth/3000GT cars only). $40 in advance.
11/19 is an
autocross, same vehicles allowed, $25 in advance.
11/19 Import Race is
$35 in advance.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#281
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