team3s Saturday,
September 30 2000 Volume
01 : Number
279
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:31:45 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Exhaust
> > Problem 2) You might think this is stupid but I don't
understand what
you
> > guys are talking about when you say 'cats'
& 'pre-cats'
>
> Your car has no pre-cats.
>
Cats
and pre-cats refer to the catalytic converters. The 'cat' is the
main
catalytic converter, located under the center of the car. The
'pre-cats'
are smaller catalytic converters mounted right before the down
pipe. There
are two of these, one for each side of the engine. By
design they come up
to operating temperature quickly, and their main purpose
is to cleanse the
exhaust upon start-up, since the larger main catalytic
converter takes
longer to warm up to operating
temperature.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 08:38:16
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust
Also it is important to remember that if you actually
find a cat under your
car it is usually a good idea to remove it before
starting the vehicle.
Otherwise you will need to invest heavily in chemicals
capable of removing
intestines from the shiny parts of your engine. Some of
you may laugh but
this is an all to common occurrence up in the great
Northwest!
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc.
(ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart.kurek@eli.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, September 29, 2000 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Exhaust
> > > Problem 2) You might think this is stupid but
I don't understand what
> you
> > > guys are talking about
when you say 'cats' & 'pre-cats'
> >
> > Your car has no
pre-cats.
> >
>
> Cats and pre-cats refer to the catalytic
converters. The 'cat' is the
main
> catalytic converter, located
under the center of the car. The 'pre-cats'
> are smaller catalytic
converters mounted right before the down pipe.
There
> are two of
these, one for each side of the engine. By design they come up
> to
operating temperature quickly, and their main purpose is to cleanse the
>
exhaust upon start-up, since the larger main catalytic converter takes
>
longer to warm up to operating temperature.
>
> Oskar
> '95
R/T TT
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 09:17:31
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need a rear precat....
This is not your problem. Your
precat and O2 sensor were just fine when you
took the car in. If they
"bunged" it up, have them repair it or replace it at
their expense! You
are, after all, paying "top dollar" for the other repairs,
don't pay for
their mistakes.
> Pretty dumb huh. I asked the guy 4 times why it
couldn't be repaired and he
> really didn't know except "the tech stripped
out the O2 sensor bung and he says
> it can't be fixed." He finally told
me to come down today and check it out and
> see if I can't figure out a
way to fix it. Sounds to me like he damaged more
> than just the bung
since these guys know I'm pretty knowledgeable about my car.
> I know I
can order just the bung from Mitsu for $10-14...If there's more damage
> I
found that M&S recycling has the rear pre-cat for $125.
>
- --
Could you drive any better if I shoved that cell phone up your
a**?!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:08:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Shredding Kumhos
*chuckle*
ya..
On Fri, 29 Sep
2000, Nassiri, Cyrus wrote:
> Of course you know I was just joking
.... these are just some of the things
> that went through my mind as I
was plowing nose first at about 50 mph
> towards a large tree ... it's
amazing how desperate fear can make you
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [
mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 1:10 PM
> To:
stealth@stls.verio.net> Cc:
'Merritt';
stealth@stls.verio.net;
opentracking@topica.com;
>
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Shredding Kumhos
>
>
> > 1. Remove the
following: hood, front r/l quarter panels, a/c,
> polyurethane
>
> nose assembly - I figure you'll loose about 350 lbs off the front -
I've
> > actually thought about doing this.
> ---
>
> Makes for horrible drag..not to mention performance and mostly illegal
for
> course racing. *and ugly*
>
> > 2. Half-way
through braking hard for a turn, lift your foot, and grab the
> >
hand-brake, that should bring the back end around and induce some
>
oversteer.
> ---
>
> Stupid..and dangerous. A driver
has better things to do than work the
> Ebrake at 120Mph..would be a very
very ugly sight to see what could happen
> there (if the Ebrake worked at
all after two uses at 120mph)
>
> > 2. This sounds stupid,
but I tried it and it works: DRIVE SLOWER - I
> enter
> >
the turn slower, and make up for lost time powering out with that cool
>
AWD.
> > Your time will decrease (or at least stay the same) and you
won't shred
> > rubber.
> ---
> Actually, once I "fixed"
the engineering mistakes Mitsubishi built in, I
> was carrying about 15mph
extra into turn-1 at Thunderhill here in
> California.
>
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
| The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is
to |
> | strip it down, and shove as many $20
bills as possible |
>
| within the
cavity of the car
itself. |
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 20:22:14
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust
> catalytic converter, located under the center of
the car. The 'pre-cats'
> are smaller catalytic converters mounted
right before the down pipe.
There
> are two of these, one for each side
of the engine.
Oskar, his car is an NA and has NO pre-cats (at least not
that year !)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 17:48:55
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Exhaust
Chill out Roger - I was just answering Deano's
question.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, September 29, 2000 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Exhaust
> > catalytic converter, located under the center of
the car. The
'pre-cats'
> > are smaller catalytic converters
mounted right before the down pipe.
> There
> > are two of these,
one for each side of the engine.
>
> Oskar, his car is an NA and has
NO pre-cats (at least not that year !)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 05:29:34
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Brakes, Brakes, and More Brakes
Hey Rich if your out there,
Your
Porterfields, did you have them slotted and drilled or just plain
vanilla?
Second, what is a fair price for front rotors a la big red
variety? Do you
know what the F-40's sell for?
Rich
92 Stealth TT
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 07:10:28
-0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RPS clutch problems continue!!
I have RPS 6 puck half carbon, half
ceramic clutch with the stronger
pressure plate in my 94 VR4, and have had no
problems. Been to
drags and made >25 all out passes so far.
Holds better than their
previous designs, and pressure plate is
stronger--more pedal force
is required.
The older, mistakenly weaker
pressure plate held less, and I had
replaced that one twice, and different
disc designs.
Clutch holding force is related mainly to 4
things:
1) pressure plate force in lbs
2) disc facing material
(friction coefficient) and design (pucks or full face
etc)
3)
material used for pressure plate and flywheel (iron, has its own
friction
coefficient).
4) disc diameter and number of
discs
ACT pressure plate will not be more than the 2900 lbs RPS
now
makes; it may be equal.
ACT material of disc--will it have higher
friction coefficient? Then
it will hold better. If not, then it
will NOT hold better.
ACT pressure plates are made of same material
(iron);
ACT disc diameter is the same.
Jack Tertadian
Oskar
wrote: snipped
> I am of a different opinion, and think that anyone
buying an RPS unit need
> to think twice before proceeding.
> It
would be nice if people that were happy with their stage III RPS
clutches
> would speak up.
> People running moderate HP, as I
am, have been happy with stock clutches,
> and ACTs. I'll be
getting myself one of these instead.
> BTW - I referenced the stage III
unit thruout this e-mail because the
> problems I have heard of are all
related to the Stage III clutch. Maybe the
> others are ok?
>
Oskar '95 R/T TT
>
> From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
> > I don't
think that's fair. Supposedly they've changed the clutch
composition
>
> > since everyone was having problems. I have an
RPS stage II that I bought
> around
> > the 20th of April &
works great with about 420lbft or torque. No slipping
> during
>
> launches or chattering around town. I've done quite a few 3.9X second
0-60's
>
> > with it according to my G-tech. Even spun all 4
tires once for 30' just to
> test
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 08:57:45
-0400
From: "Laura Roehrig" <
lroehrig@zbzoom.net>
Subject:
Team3S: "Newbie owner needs Getrag help!"
I just recently purchased a 91
Stealth/TT. I've had it A MONTH and it's
been in the shop for over two
weeks! I love the car but since its not under
warranty I've had to
shoulder all the bills for repairs which seemed to
start to pile up as soon
as I got it home. (slave cylinder 1st week, oxygen
sensor 2nd week, AWD
output shaft 3rd week......now the getrag
synchronizers)!!!!
The gears
grind between 2nd and 3rd gears. My mechanic is an ex-Dodge
mechanic
and the best transmission guy in these remote parts of Pa. He says
that
the synchronizer is bad. While taking the car apart he discovered
that
the AWD system was just about to go, and ordered the parts for that to
be
repaired. In the mean time....I've been trying to get my hands on
the parts
necessary to replace the synchronizer. No one has them....not
even the
dealer....I've been told that you have to buy the whole transmission
and
have it shipped from Japan....($$$$$$3,000+shipping). I've even
called
Getrag in Germany, and they don't know if they can even send the parts
to
me, because they only export to Japan (the whole transmission).
If
its possible to get the synchronizer for 2nd to 3rd gear......should I
just
replace all of them (all gears) while I'm at it....to save myself
the
labor costs???
I downloaded the "find parts" program on this site,
but got lost trying to
match up parts with Mitsubishi, and knowing which
parts to actually search
for based on the illustration...so pretty much that
was a bust for me.
I'd appreciate any suggestions anyone might
have.......thanks,
Laura Roehrig
lroehrig@zbzoom.net***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 11:38:20
-0500
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
"Newbie owner needs Getrag help!"
Two suggestions Laura .... the first is
the one you have learned the hard way
... with a TT or VR-4 one of the most
valuable initial purchases you should make
is an aftermarket warranty.
These cars are awesome beyond description, but if
you have problems ... as
all cars do ... the parts and labor can be a bit
pricey. The tranny
synchros in particular are known for having problems. You
should look
into buying a warranty soon.
Second tip ... a company by the name of
Kormex has produced and are selling the
1-2 syncros, and I believe that that
will also fix a grind in the 2nd to 3rd
gear, but don't quote me on that ...
someone a bit more familiar with the
transmission may be able to confirm or
refute that statement. Anyway, the 1-2
syncros are not too expensive
... check out the Kormex web site at:
http://www.kormextrans.com/Good
luck!
Greg
Laura Roehrig wrote:
> I just recently
purchased a 91 Stealth/TT. I've had it A MONTH and it's
> been in
the shop for over two weeks! I love the car but since its not
under
> warranty I've had to shoulder all the bills for repairs which
seemed to
> start to pile up as soon as I got it home. (slave cylinder 1st
week, oxygen
> sensor 2nd week, AWD output shaft 3rd week......now the
getrag
> synchronizers)!!!!
>
> The gears grind between 2nd
and 3rd gears. My mechanic is an ex-Dodge
> mechanic and the best
transmission guy in these remote parts of Pa. He says
> that the
synchronizer is bad. While taking the car apart he discovered that
>
the AWD system was just about to go, and ordered the parts for that to
be
> repaired. In the mean time....I've been trying to get my hands
on the parts
> necessary to replace the synchronizer. No one has
them....not even the
> dealer....I've been told that you have to buy the
whole transmission and
> have it shipped from
Japan....($$$$$$3,000+shipping). I've even called
> Getrag in
Germany, and they don't know if they can even send the parts to
> me,
because they only export to Japan (the whole transmission).
>
> If
its possible to get the synchronizer for 2nd to 3rd gear......should I
>
just replace all of them (all gears) while I'm at it....to save myself
the
> labor costs???
>
> I downloaded the "find parts" program
on this site, but got lost trying to
> match up parts with Mitsubishi, and
knowing which parts to actually search
> for based on the
illustration...so pretty much that was a bust for me.
>
> I'd
appreciate any suggestions anyone might have.......thanks,
>
> Laura
Roehrig
>
lroehrig@zbzoom.net>
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#279
*********************