team3s Thursday,
September 28 2000 Volume
01 : Number
277
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Sep 2000 22:52:20 -0700
From: "Connelly, Jay" <
jay.connelly@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: help - EVC problem
Thanks Jim. Sounds like a similar
situation although mine may be toast. Any
idea if I can buy a replacement
unit and not have to run a bunch of new
wires/harnesses?
J
Btw
- looks like similar mods but I wonder if you had a bad launch on the
13.16.
I ran a 12.68 at 113.1. 60' time 1.71
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:22:49
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotor Update
> Thanks to Ken Middaugh, I got the 20% 3Si
discount without question from
> Porterfield.
Actually, credit
should go to "BLACKLIGHT" <
blacklight@planetice.net>
for
setting up the discount with Porterfield. I just forwarded the info
from the
Starnet list :)
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize
using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:49:50
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: APEXi AVC-R Boost controller
> I have half installed the
APEXi AVC-R boost controller, I have been told
> that the green wire has
to be connected to display the injecter duty cycle,
> it will not work
properly unless this wire is connected.
> Who can tell me where to connect
this wire to, do I just connect it to one
> of the injector outputs or is
there a special place for it.
Which AVC-R do you have, the old one or the
new indiglo display? You can
download product documentation from
http://www.apexi-usa.com. I got
the
following info from their website manuals:
1st gen AVC-R:
Black
Ground
Blue Injector Signal
Red Ignition Power
Orange Constant
Power
Indiglo SAVC-R:
Red Ignition Power
Purple RPM or Injector
Signal
Green Ground
Black Ground
Gray Throttle Signal
White Speed
Signal
If these wires don't match your unit, then call Apexi's Technical
support at
949-224-1680.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Forget world
peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:32:18
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Diff type on Vr-4
Hey guys, if you want exploded diagrams, and
explanations on how our
cars AWD systems works, just read the 1g Technical
manual on the CD.
It's SPECIFICALLY for the DSM's, but the actual components
are quite
similar (take a DSM, multiply by 1.5 or 2 :)
It will show
AND tell you how everything works, what kind it is, and
what benefits it has.
This manual is also freely downloadable from my
www site.
Vineet Singh
- FINALLY got my email working!
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:18:41
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: help - EVC problem
"Connelly, Jay" wrote:
>
> Thanks
Jim. Sounds like a similar situation although mine may be toast.
Any
> idea if I can buy a replacement unit and not have to run a bunch of
new
> wires/harnesses?
If it is just the head unit that's bad, you
should be able to swap in a new one,
leaving all of the wiring and plumbing
intact.
> Btw - looks like similar mods but I wonder if you had a
bad launch on the
> 13.16. I ran a 12.68 at 113.1. 60' time
1.71
Ha! My launches are TERRIBLE, partly because I'm worried about
detonating my
Getrag (I have 80k on the original clutch, so attempting to
slip aggressively is
not an option), but mostly due to lack of skill. I
have no doubt that you (and
probably most folks on this list) could get in my
car and do much better!
Good luck... -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews -
Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPH)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors,
RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:47:07
EDT
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Are they lying?
i just brought my car in the have the clutch
done. They called me and told
me I needed a new slave cylinder, and I
believe that. But then they told me
that the ball and socket joint or
something in my left front side was loose.
This can not be replaced in
this kind of car and they must replace the whole
lower control arm which
costs 518.73, plus 95.59 in labor. Then, since this
was loose they
also must replace 2 stabilization links which are 79.86 a pair
plus 37.16 in
labor. Then they suggest that my water pump is going out. Is
this all right? Is there any way to get some of these parts
down? Or are
they just trying to get more business?
Thanks for any
input
Chris
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:36:20
-0400
From: GREG RUSH <
rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S:
cylinder head
Can I put 95 or newer heads on a 92 block? I know there is
a difference
in crank angle sensor area but what are the details? I have
been
thinking about just buying remanufactured heads for a 1995 turbo
model
for 900$ and buying a brand new 4 bolt block from dealer for
2650$.
Install new water pump, oil pump, timing belt and tensioner. Use my
pan
and all other accessory's. What problems might I have with
this
scenario?
thanks
rushvr4
irun into with this scenario?
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:04:14
EDT
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: (no subject)
Sorry, I forgot the information on my car in the
previous email.
It is a 1992 Dodge Stealth Es DOHC
it has about 75,000
miles on it and how no modifications
I just bought it about 3 and a half
months ago
i just brought my car in the have the clutch done. They
called me and told
me I needed a new slave cylinder, and I believe
that. But then they told me
that the ball and socket joint or
something in my left front side was loose.
This can not be replaced in
this kind of car and they must replace the whole
lower control arm which
costs 518.73, plus 95.59 in labor. Then, since this
was loose they
also must replace 2 stabilization links which are 79.86 a pair
plus 37.16 in
labor. Then they suggest that my water pump is going out. Is
this all right? Is there any way to get some of these parts
down? Or are
they just trying to get more business?
Thanks for any
input
Chris
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 23:12:44
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: cylinder head
> Can I put 95 or newer heads on a 92
block?
Yes
> difference in crank angle sensor area but what are
the details?
The crank is not the on the heads right ? So why should the
CRANK angle
sensor affect the heads ??
> I have been
>
thinking about just buying remanufactured heads for a 1995 turbo
model
> for 900$ and buying a brand new 4 bolt block from dealer for
2650$.
> Install new water pump, oil pump, timing belt and tensioner. Use
my pan
> and all other accessory's. What problems might I have with
this
> scenario?
No problems... just to much complicated. If you
want to build a 93+ engine
together then yo ubetter do not use stuff from an
old -93 engine !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 14:16:24
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Are they lying?
Of course their parts quotes are "top
dollar". You need to buy parts from one
of the list's discount dealers
such as Norco, Tallahassee, or Conicelli
Mitsubishi. I'll forward the
list to you. If you are at a Mitsu dealer, have
them match the above
dealer's prices. If you are at shop, have them quote you
labor only and
you provide the parts.
The lower control arm should cost about $210 each,
and yes the ball joints
aren't technically available seperately. The
stabilzer links are about $35 a
pair. The clutch slave cylinder is
about $40 although a rebuild kit is only $7
and is usually adequate.
Water pump should be about $79 and should be done at
the 60K or 120K service
to save in labor costs.
> i just brought my car in the have the
clutch done. They called me and told
> me I needed a new slave
cylinder, and I believe that. But then they told me
> that the ball
and socket joint or something in my left front side was loose.
> This can
not be replaced in this kind of car and they must replace the whole
>
lower control arm which costs 518.73, plus 95.59 in labor. Then, since
this
> was loose they also must replace 2 stabilization links which are
79.86 a pair
> plus 37.16 in labor. Then they suggest that my water
pump is going out. Is
> this all right? Is there any way to
get some of these parts down? Or are
> they just trying to get more
business?
- --
Could you drive any better if I shoved that cell phone
up your a**?!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:13:56
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Urgent, lost the CAPS link.
Can one please forward me the CAPS
link ? I lost the mail with it.
Thanks in advance
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 20:20:23
EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
EGT Temp Range - Limits
* EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust
Manifold, prior to the turbo.
Add 150F degrees if probe is after the turbo.
250F if probe in
downpipe/collector.
Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion
formula is as follows:
Multiply Celsius degrees by 9 and divide by 5, then
add 32.
Stock motor & pistons
Celsius =
Fahrenheit
950 = 1742 PISTON MELT
DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec bursts)
925
= 1700 Getting damn close
900
= 1652 About the maximum limit - unless
racing
875 = 1607 or less No
problems...
I'd consider anything over 875c degrees deadly for sustained
highway speed.
These are the numbers I use.
Thanks
Arty 91
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:44:12
-0700
From: Bob Forrest <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Urgent, lost the CAPS link.
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To:
"Team3S" <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Can one please forward me the CAPS link ? I lost the mail with
it.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Roger
Go to the Team3S Home
Page, or the FAQ Page... The link is on both.
www.stealth-3000gt.stwww.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQ.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:10:21
-0700
From: "Sue Smith" <
saintsue@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: How much hp/torque can stock clutch hold?
With all this talk of
RPS clutches going bad, I was wondering how good the
stock one was?
Will it hold up to 15Gs at 15 psi or so on pump gas? If
not, what kind
of clutch is now the "recommended" one? Someone
please
answer.
Thanks
_______________________________________________
Why
pay for something you could get for free?
NetZero provides FREE Internet
Access and Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 18:46:44
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
EGT Temp Range - Limits
Good info Arty and consistent with what I have
used on race engines since
forever. Not ethat these temperatures are
good guidelines regardless of
aspiration method, type of fuel or type of
engine.
The only caveat I would add to Arty's info is that this assumes
minimal
combustion in the exhaust header prior to the pyrometer.
Climbing a hill in
a high gear (f'rinstance) will sometimes cause EGTs to
shoot well into the
danger zone but these situations are usually "false"
indications of actual
combustion temperatures due to timing and mixture
changes being applied by
the ECU.
I have also noticed that some bone
stock modern engines will sometimes
display lengthy sustained EGTs whilst
cruising under higher load situations
(on the highway, ECU operating in
closed loop mode). Several DSMs, a few
VR4s and a Dodge thing of some
sort (Stratus maybe) were instances of
vehicles where I have seen this
phenomenon first hand. I have heard it
reported here and there by
others as well. Actually I am not sure I have a
proper explanation for
this behavior, but I suspect it has something to do
with average burn mixture
over time (rich about half the time, lean about
the other half), which may
cause high temperatures for the hot side of the
head on average (and
therefore the manifold which is there partly to extract
heat in the form of
exhaust) but localized to within acceptable temperatures
in the combustion
chamber. *shrug*
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
Aso8@aol.com> Sent:
Wednesday, September 27, 2000 5:20 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@starnet.net> Cc:
Aso8@aol.com> Subject: Team3S: EGT Temp
Range - Limits
>
>
> * EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust
Manifold, prior to the turbo.
> Add 150F degrees if probe is after the
turbo. 250F if probe in
> downpipe/collector.
>
> Celsius to
Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
> Multiply Celsius degrees by
9 and divide by 5, then add 32.
>
> Stock motor &
pistons
> Celsius = Fahrenheit
> 950
= 1742 PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec
bursts)
> 925 = 1700 Getting
damn close
> 900 = 1652 About
the maximum limit - unless racing
> 875
= 1607 or less No problems...
>
> I'd consider anything
over 875c degrees deadly for sustained
> highway speed.
>
>
These are the numbers I use.
>
> Thanks
> Arty 91
VR-4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:20:08
-0500
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: How much hp/torque can stock clutch hold?
I was running stock
turbos/fueling at 15psi and the stock clutch with 25000
miles held up just
fine. Had quite a few 1.8X 60 foots with it. Keep in mind I
don't slip the
clutch during launches, I just dump it. Well I put my 15G's,
550's and
ARC2-GP in and headed out to the country to do some tuning at 14 psi
on 91
octane. I did about 4-1/4 mile runs and the stock clutch held up to that
too.
On the way back from the countryside on the highway I downshifted to
third at
60mph and punched it and the clutch started slipping bad. I drove
normal for
another 5 minutes and punched it and it slipped again. Not good.
Right after
that I had it switched with a Stage II RPS and all is well
now...
Trevor
Sue Smith wrote:
> With all this talk of
RPS clutches going bad, I was wondering how good the
> stock one
was? Will it hold up to 15Gs at 15 psi or so on pump gas? If
>
not, what kind of clutch is now the "recommended" one? Someone
please
> answer.
> Thanks
>
>
_______________________________________________
> Why pay for something
you could get for free?
> NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and
Email
>
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html>
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:42:48
-0400
From: "Denny Maderi" <
dmaderi1@twcny.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Exhaust
Well, I just want to say first that I really enjoy
reading all of the posts
and information that everyone has to offer -- you
guys are the BEST!!! So
for an answer to my question I come to you...What
would you do?? Here's the
scene - I have a '93 Stealth ES and I would like to
put the Borla exhaust
system on. Problem 1) I currently only have one muffler
port on my back
bumper so I would have to purchase the TT bumper for that
year right?
Problem 2) You might think this is stupid but I don't understand
what you
guys are talking about when you say 'cats' & 'pre-cats' - I am
assuming that
when I buy the exhaust system from Borla I will receive the
pipe from the
Catalytic converter back - Two mufflers - and Two tips..Am I
right in
assuming that? Also what type of catalytic converter do I buy and
what pipes
do I buy that go from the engine block to the converter?? Will
this in turn
increase horse power by doing all of this?? I'm confused..... So
I guess the
absolute final question would be if you had my car....What would
you do??
One more quickie while I'm typing away - Mitsu has
replacement parts for
the stock hydraulic lifters that are on my engine right
now (I don't have
TT) Has anyone done this themselves and was it a somewhat
easy thing to do
with the proper tool that you have to buy. I have had
both valve covers off
so I do know what is involved with that, but I have not
done anything yet
with the lifters.
- -Deano
Syracuse, NY
'93
Stealth ES
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:29:55
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Shredding Kumhos
We went out to play at Marshalltown Speedway
this afternoon, and I shredded
two Kumho tires. This means that my brand new
set of Kumhos got through one
weekend at Heartland Park and about 50 laps at
Marshalltown. One front tire
is down to the cord, and one front tire is
cupped. (The only good news is
that I finally got that 97 Porsche TT AWD!
)
My problem is that when I really push my Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (AWD
twin
turbo), it reverts from neutral handling to power understeer, putting
all
the weight on the outside front, so that tire takes terrible abuse
from
cornering forces plus the wheel grabbing for traction.
Until one
event ago, I ran Yokohama 032R tires. They lasted a long time,
and held up
pretty well against the power understeer problem.
So, what do you folks
think I should do about it? I have an event at Road
America next weekend, so
I gotta order two replacement tires tomorrow.
1. Change tire pressure? I
run 44 psi cold in the fronts. Same as the
Yokos, which loved it.
2. More
negative camber? I am running 1.1 deg negative now, but can go up
to 5 deg
neg with my camber plates. Gotta drive it 300 miles to the
track,
though.
3. Go back to the tougher, longer lasting Yokos on the
front? Can I run
Yokos front and Kumhos rear?
All suggestions
welcome.
Rich/94 VR4
Ground Control adjustable suspension
w/Eibach springs. Car is lowered as
much as feasible.
Camber plates.
Settings are max castor, 0.15 deg positive toe, 1.1 deg neg
camber front,
1.25 deg neg camber rear.
Porterfield cyrogenically treated rotors, Porsche
TT Big Red calipers, Hawk
Blue pads, SS lines, ducts, water
injection.
Kumho race tires.
Stock motor
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:36:10
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: How much hp/torque can stock clutch hold?
I had a stock
clutch that made close to 50 11 second runs. Once I got the
car tuned
in, it stopped holding in third gear.
The best I could produce is an
11.39 with a best 124mph with a slipping
clutch.
I say, this did hold
better than any of the 4 RPS clutches I installed.
On the other
hand, the OS Giken clutch... holds with no question or mercy.
(I
love to let the car get valet parked :))
Brad
Check out my
home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Trevor L. James
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 9:20 PM
To:
Sue Smith
Cc: Team 3/S List
Subject: Re: Team3S: How much hp/torque can
stock clutch hold?
I was running stock turbos/fueling at 15psi and the
stock clutch with 25000
miles held up just fine. Had quite a few 1.8X 60
foots with it. Keep in mind
I
don't slip the clutch during launches, I
just dump it. Well I put my 15G's,
550's and ARC2-GP in and headed out to the
country to do some tuning at 14
psi
on 91 octane. I did about 4-1/4 mile
runs and the stock clutch held up to
that
too. On the way back from the
countryside on the highway I downshifted to
third at 60mph and punched it and
the clutch started slipping bad. I drove
normal for another 5 minutes and
punched it and it slipped again. Not good.
Right after that I had it switched
with a Stage II RPS and all is well
now...
Trevor
Sue Smith
wrote:
> With all this talk of RPS clutches going bad, I was wondering
how good the
> stock one was? Will it hold up to 15Gs at 15 psi or
so on pump gas? If
> not, what kind of clutch is now the
"recommended" one? Someone please
> answer.
>
Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
>
Why pay for something you could get for free?
> NetZero provides FREE
Internet Access and Email
>
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html>
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:42:44
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Formula 1 Report -- Very Long
The pump gasoline is correct. It isn't
anywhere near 118 octane. Your
0-100 time is way off! The modern 2000 F1 car
goes from 0-100-0 in 6
seconds. Think about it the Porsche 911 turbo was
blitzing the 0-100-0
competition with just under 11 seconds. This is down
from some years ago
when the F1 car would travel from 0-100 in about 2 ticks.
At the race
they had Villneuve's car on Diamond vision with tach that was
limited to
17,500. It was bouncing off this mark agressively. He never was
below
10,000 revs for a whole lap
Rich
92 Stealth TT
Jim
Berry wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
> > The engines generate about 850 hp on pump gasoline and rev
to
> > 16,500 rpm. 0-60 takes 2 sec, 0-100 is 5 sec.
>
>
One of the television announcers said the gasoline [ fuel ] was 118
>
octane unleaded --- that should control our detonation problem. Not
>
quite pump gas, not any pumps in my area anyway.
>
> Sounds like
you had fun --- being a big shot sure would be fun. A friend
> of mine
gets us passes to a suite for the NHRA winter nationals and spring
>
nationals, and, while nowhere near the same level as the treatment you
>
describe it sure is fun to watch the riff-raff from the air conditioned
>
confines of a suite, to say nothing of being able to get within 50 feet
of
> fuel dragster if you wish. Acceleration is a tad quicker and at 50
feet you
> almost can't breathe at launch.
>
> Jim Berry
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:00:56
-0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Shredding Kumhos
What about running the Kumho V700's up front and run
the same size street
tires in the rear? Wouldn't that help balance the
car better? The car
tends to understeer because the front loses
traction before the rear does.
I'm not saying put 80k mile all seasons on the
rear, but a good quality tire
like MXX3's or similar would help bring the car
into better balance, correct
(that is, causing the front and rear to break
loose at closer to the same
point)?
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder
VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
<
opentracking@topica.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 27, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: Shredding
Kumhos
> So, what do you folks think I should do about it? I have
an event at Road
> America next weekend, so I gotta order two replacement
tires tomorrow.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:45:59
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
exhaust
Someone pointed out the fact that the O2 sensors does not dig
leaded fuel.
It would be prudent to add this to the cat/catless
discussion. Although
running without cats will make it possible to run
leaded fuel thru the car,
the O2 sensors will get coated with lead and
eventually fail. It is not
clear how long you can get by with leaded
fuel before the O2 sensors go, but
common consensus seem to be that a few
tanks of leaded will be ok in the 3/S
cars. Personally I run thru 5
gallons of high octane leaded every now and
then and I haven't yet noticed
any problems, except the pissed off drivers
of the other
cars...
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
12.6@108 on stock turbos
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
To: "George Shaw"
<
george.shaw@btinternet.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 25, 2000 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S:
exhaust
> My personal opinion after having used both the HKS twin
tip exhaust, and
now
> the Borla. Go with the Borla. It is
stainless, weighs less, looks
cooler,
> sounds more aggressive and is
less expensive. I thought the HKS was too
> heavy, and I didn't like
the sound it made while under throttle. Again,
> these are personal
opinions.
>
> - Cats are good for emission.
> - These cars
have too many cats
> - No pre-cats improve spool-up and flow.
> - No
main cat improves spool-up and flow a tad bit more.
> - No cats let you
use leaded fuel.
>
> The more cats you remove, the louder the car is
going to be.
> Also, when I use no cats I've noticed that the exhaust
fumes are more
> pronounced.
>
> Maybe gut the pre-cats and
get a high flow main cat to go with your Borla!
>
> Oskar
>
'95 R/T TT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "George
Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:03 PM
> Subject: Team3S:
exhaust
>
>
> > Exhaust. Which one? HKS or Borla? Cats or
Not?
> >
> > I am after a near stock look i.e twin outlets not
one side only but with
> > better breath capability.
>
>
> > Roger I believe you may have most experience on this ? Do you
have the
> part
> > numbers for the Bprla and ATR setup you
did?
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 07:00:35
-0400
From: "Michael S. Steinebach" <
mikala.s@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Split Second for SALE!!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=451720920I
have a split second for sale on Ebay at the link above. :) take a
look
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#277
*********************