team3s          Thursday, September 28 2000          Volume 01 : Number 277




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 22:52:20 -0700
From: "Connelly, Jay" <jay.connelly@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: help - EVC problem

Thanks Jim.  Sounds like a similar situation although mine may be toast. Any
idea if I can buy a replacement unit and not have to run a bunch of new
wires/harnesses?

J

Btw - looks like similar mods but I wonder if you had a bad launch on the
13.16. I ran a 12.68 at 113.1.  60' time 1.71


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:22:49 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotor Update

> Thanks to Ken Middaugh, I got the 20% 3Si discount without question from
> Porterfield.

Actually, credit should go to "BLACKLIGHT" <blacklight@planetice.net> for
setting up the discount with Porterfield.  I just forwarded the info from the
Starnet list :)

- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:49:50 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: APEXi AVC-R Boost controller

> I have half installed the APEXi AVC-R boost controller, I have been told
> that the green wire has to be connected to display the injecter duty cycle,
> it will not work properly unless this wire is connected.
> Who can tell me where to connect this wire to, do I just connect it to one
> of the injector outputs or is there a special place for it.

Which AVC-R do you have, the old one or the new indiglo display?  You can
download product documentation from http://www.apexi-usa.com.  I got the
following info from their website manuals:

1st gen AVC-R:
Black Ground
Blue Injector Signal
Red Ignition Power
Orange Constant Power

Indiglo SAVC-R:
Red Ignition Power
Purple RPM or Injector Signal
Green Ground
Black Ground
Gray Throttle Signal
White Speed Signal

If these wires don't match your unit, then call Apexi's Technical support at
949-224-1680.

Good luck,
Ken
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:32:18 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject: Team3S: Diff type on Vr-4

Hey guys, if you want exploded diagrams, and explanations on how our
cars AWD systems works, just read the 1g Technical manual on the CD.
It's SPECIFICALLY for the DSM's, but the actual components are quite
similar (take a DSM, multiply by 1.5 or 2 :)

It will show AND tell you how everything works, what kind it is, and
what benefits it has. This manual is also freely downloadable from my
www site.

Vineet Singh - FINALLY got my email working!
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM & 3/S Service manuals on CDROM


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:18:41 +0200
From: Jim Matthews <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: help - EVC problem

"Connelly, Jay" wrote:
>
> Thanks Jim.  Sounds like a similar situation although mine may be toast. Any
> idea if I can buy a replacement unit and not have to run a bunch of new
> wires/harnesses?

If it is just the head unit that's bad, you should be able to swap in a new one,
leaving all of the wiring and plumbing intact.


> Btw - looks like similar mods but I wonder if you had a bad launch on the
> 13.16. I ran a 12.68 at 113.1.  60' time 1.71

Ha!  My launches are TERRIBLE, partly because I'm worried about detonating my
Getrag (I have 80k on the original clutch, so attempting to slip aggressively is
not an option), but mostly due to lack of skill.  I have no doubt that you (and
probably most folks on this list) could get in my car and do much better!

Good luck... -Jim

- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPH)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:47:07 EDT
From: The68th@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Are they lying?

i just brought my car in the have the clutch done.  They called me and told
me I needed a new slave cylinder, and I believe that.  But then they told me
that the ball and socket joint or something in my left front side was loose. 
This can not be replaced in this kind of car and they must replace the whole
lower control arm which costs 518.73, plus 95.59 in labor.  Then, since this
was loose they also must replace 2 stabilization links which are 79.86 a pair
plus 37.16 in labor.  Then they suggest that my water pump is going out.  Is
this all right?  Is there any way to get some of these parts down?  Or are
they just trying to get more business?
Thanks for any input
Chris

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:36:20 -0400
From: GREG RUSH <rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S: cylinder head

Can I put 95 or newer heads on a 92 block? I know there is a difference
in crank angle sensor area but what are the details? I have been
thinking about just buying remanufactured  heads for a 1995 turbo model
for 900$ and buying a brand new 4 bolt block from dealer for 2650$.
Install new water pump, oil pump, timing belt and tensioner. Use my pan
and all other accessory's. What problems might I have with this
scenario?

  thanks
     rushvr4


irun into with this scenario?


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:04:14 EDT
From: The68th@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: (no subject)

Sorry, I forgot the information on my car in the previous email.
It is a 1992 Dodge Stealth Es DOHC
it has about 75,000 miles on it and how no modifications
I just bought it about 3 and a half months ago

i just brought my car in the have the clutch done.  They called me and told
me I needed a new slave cylinder, and I believe that.  But then they told me
that the ball and socket joint or something in my left front side was loose. 
This can not be replaced in this kind of car and they must replace the whole
lower control arm which costs 518.73, plus 95.59 in labor.  Then, since this
was loose they also must replace 2 stabilization links which are 79.86 a pair
plus 37.16 in labor.  Then they suggest that my water pump is going out.  Is
this all right?  Is there any way to get some of these parts down?  Or are
they just trying to get more business?
Thanks for any input
Chris

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 23:12:44 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: cylinder head

> Can I put 95 or newer heads on a 92 block?

Yes

> difference in crank angle sensor area but what are the details?

The crank is not the on the heads right ? So why should the CRANK angle
sensor affect the heads ??


> I have been
> thinking about just buying remanufactured  heads for a 1995 turbo model
> for 900$ and buying a brand new 4 bolt block from dealer for 2650$.
> Install new water pump, oil pump, timing belt and tensioner. Use my pan
> and all other accessory's. What problems might I have with this
> scenario?

No problems... just to much complicated. If you want to build a 93+ engine
together then yo ubetter do not use stuff from an old -93 engine !

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 14:16:24 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Are they lying?

Of course their parts quotes are "top dollar".  You need to buy parts from one
of the list's discount dealers such as Norco, Tallahassee, or Conicelli
Mitsubishi.  I'll forward the list to you.  If you are at a Mitsu dealer, have
them match the above dealer's prices.  If you are at shop, have them quote you
labor only and you provide the parts.

The lower control arm should cost about $210 each, and yes the ball joints
aren't technically available seperately.  The stabilzer links are about $35 a
pair.  The clutch slave cylinder is about $40 although a rebuild kit is only $7
and is usually adequate.  Water pump should be about $79 and should be done at
the 60K or 120K service to save in labor costs.


> i just brought my car in the have the clutch done.  They called me and told
> me I needed a new slave cylinder, and I believe that.  But then they told me
> that the ball and socket joint or something in my left front side was loose.
> This can not be replaced in this kind of car and they must replace the whole
> lower control arm which costs 518.73, plus 95.59 in labor.  Then, since this
> was loose they also must replace 2 stabilization links which are 79.86 a pair
> plus 37.16 in labor.  Then they suggest that my water pump is going out.  Is
> this all right?  Is there any way to get some of these parts down?  Or are
> they just trying to get more business?

- --
Could you drive any better if I shoved that cell phone up your a**?!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:13:56 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Urgent, lost the CAPS link.

Can one please forward me the CAPS link ? I lost the mail with it.

Thanks in advance
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 20:20:23 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: EGT Temp Range - Limits

* EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust Manifold, prior to the turbo.
Add 150F degrees if probe is after the turbo. 250F if probe in
downpipe/collector.

Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
Multiply Celsius degrees by 9 and divide by 5, then add 32.

Stock motor & pistons
Celsius = Fahrenheit
 950     =  1742  PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec bursts)
 925     =  1700  Getting damn close
 900     =  1652  About the maximum limit - unless racing
 875     =  1607  or less No problems...

I'd consider anything over 875c degrees deadly for sustained highway speed.

These are the numbers I use.

Thanks
Arty 91 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:44:12 -0700
From: Bob Forrest <bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Urgent, lost the CAPS link.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: "Team3S" <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>

> Can one please forward me the CAPS link ? I lost the mail with it.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Roger

Go to the Team3S Home Page, or the FAQ Page...  The link is on both.

www.stealth-3000gt.st
www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQ.htm

Best,

Forrest




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:10:21 -0700
From: "Sue Smith" <saintsue@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: How much hp/torque can stock clutch hold?

With all this talk of RPS clutches going bad, I was wondering how good the
stock one was?  Will it hold up to 15Gs at 15 psi or so on pump gas?  If
not, what kind of clutch is now the "recommended" one?  Someone please
answer.
Thanks

_______________________________________________
Why pay for something you could get for free?
NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 18:46:44 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: EGT Temp Range - Limits

Good info Arty and consistent with what I have used on race engines since
forever.  Not ethat these temperatures are good guidelines regardless of
aspiration method, type of fuel or type of engine.

The only caveat I would add to Arty's info is that this assumes minimal
combustion in the exhaust header prior to the pyrometer.  Climbing a hill in
a high gear (f'rinstance) will sometimes cause EGTs to shoot well into the
danger zone but these situations are usually "false" indications of actual
combustion temperatures due to timing and mixture changes being applied by
the ECU.

I have also noticed that some bone stock modern engines will sometimes
display lengthy sustained EGTs whilst cruising under higher load situations
(on the highway, ECU operating in closed loop mode).  Several DSMs, a few
VR4s and a Dodge thing of some sort (Stratus maybe) were instances of
vehicles where I have seen this phenomenon first hand.  I have heard it
reported here and there by others as well.  Actually I am not sure I have a
proper explanation for this behavior, but I suspect it has something to do
with average burn mixture over time (rich about half the time, lean about
the other half), which may cause high temperatures for the hot side of the
head on average (and therefore the manifold which is there partly to extract
heat in the form of exhaust) but localized to within acceptable temperatures
in the combustion chamber.  *shrug*


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 5:20 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; stealth@starnet.net
> Cc: Aso8@aol.com
> Subject: Team3S: EGT Temp Range - Limits
>
>
> * EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust Manifold, prior to the turbo.
> Add 150F degrees if probe is after the turbo. 250F if probe in
> downpipe/collector.
>
> Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
> Multiply Celsius degrees by 9 and divide by 5, then add 32.
>
> Stock motor & pistons
> Celsius = Fahrenheit
>  950     =  1742  PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec bursts)
>  925     =  1700  Getting damn close
>  900     =  1652  About the maximum limit - unless racing
>  875     =  1607  or less No problems...
>
> I'd consider anything over 875c degrees deadly for sustained
> highway speed.
>
> These are the numbers I use.
>
> Thanks
> Arty 91 VR-4
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:20:08 -0500
From: "Trevor L. James" <trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How much hp/torque can stock clutch hold?

I was running stock turbos/fueling at 15psi and the stock clutch with 25000
miles held up just fine. Had quite a few 1.8X 60 foots with it. Keep in mind I
don't slip the clutch during launches, I just dump it. Well I put my 15G's,
550's and ARC2-GP in and headed out to the country to do some tuning at 14 psi
on 91 octane. I did about 4-1/4 mile runs and the stock clutch held up to that
too. On the way back from the countryside on the highway I downshifted to
third at 60mph and punched it and the clutch started slipping bad. I drove
normal for another 5 minutes and punched it and it slipped again. Not good.
Right after that I had it switched with a Stage II RPS and all is well now...

Trevor

Sue Smith wrote:

> With all this talk of RPS clutches going bad, I was wondering how good the
> stock one was?  Will it hold up to 15Gs at 15 psi or so on pump gas?  If
> not, what kind of clutch is now the "recommended" one?  Someone please
> answer.
> Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Why pay for something you could get for free?
> NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
> http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:42:48 -0400
From: "Denny Maderi" <dmaderi1@twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Exhaust

Well, I just want to say first that I really enjoy reading all of the posts
and information that everyone has to offer -- you guys are the BEST!!! So
for an answer to my question I come to you...What would you do?? Here's the
scene - I have a '93 Stealth ES and I would like to put the Borla exhaust
system on. Problem 1) I currently only have one muffler port on my back
bumper so I would have to purchase the TT bumper for that year right?
Problem 2) You might think this is stupid but I don't understand what you
guys are talking about when you say 'cats' & 'pre-cats' - I am assuming that
when I buy the exhaust system from Borla I will receive the pipe from the
Catalytic converter back - Two mufflers - and Two tips..Am I right in
assuming that? Also what type of catalytic converter do I buy and what pipes
do I buy that go from the engine block to the converter?? Will this in turn
increase horse power by doing all of this?? I'm confused..... So I guess the
absolute final question would be if you had my car....What would you do??

One more quickie while I'm  typing away - Mitsu has replacement parts for
the stock hydraulic lifters that are on my engine right now (I don't have
TT) Has anyone done this themselves and was it a somewhat easy thing to do
with the proper tool that you have to buy. I have had  both valve covers off
so I do know what is involved with that, but I have not done anything yet
with the lifters.

- -Deano
Syracuse, NY
'93 Stealth ES




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:29:55 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Shredding Kumhos

We went out to play at Marshalltown Speedway this afternoon, and I shredded
two Kumho tires. This means that my brand new set of Kumhos got through one
weekend at Heartland Park and about 50 laps at Marshalltown. One front tire
is down to the cord, and one front tire is cupped. (The only good news is
that I finally got that 97 Porsche TT AWD! )

My problem is that when I really push my Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (AWD twin
turbo), it reverts from neutral handling to power understeer, putting all
the weight on the outside front, so that tire takes terrible abuse from
cornering forces plus the wheel grabbing for traction.

Until one event ago, I ran Yokohama 032R tires. They lasted a long time,
and held up pretty well against the power understeer problem.

So, what do you folks think I should do about it? I have an event at Road
America next weekend, so I gotta order two replacement tires tomorrow.

1. Change tire pressure? I run 44 psi cold in the fronts. Same as the
Yokos, which loved it.
2. More negative camber? I am running 1.1 deg negative now, but can go up
to 5 deg neg with my camber plates. Gotta drive it 300 miles to the track,
though.
3. Go back to the tougher, longer lasting Yokos on the front? Can I run
Yokos front and Kumhos rear?

All suggestions welcome. 

Rich/94 VR4
Ground Control adjustable suspension w/Eibach springs. Car is lowered as
much as feasible.
Camber plates. Settings are max castor, 0.15 deg positive toe, 1.1 deg neg
camber front, 1.25 deg neg camber rear.
Porterfield cyrogenically treated rotors, Porsche TT Big Red calipers, Hawk
Blue pads, SS lines, ducts, water injection.
Kumho race tires.
Stock motor

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:36:10 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How much hp/torque can stock clutch hold?

I had a stock clutch that made close to 50 11 second runs.  Once I got the
car tuned in, it stopped holding in third gear.

The best I could produce is an 11.39 with a best 124mph with a slipping
clutch.

I say, this did hold better than any of the 4 RPS clutches I installed.

On the other hand,  the OS Giken  clutch... holds with no question or mercy.
(I love to let the car get valet parked :))



Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Trevor L. James
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 9:20 PM
To: Sue Smith
Cc: Team 3/S List
Subject: Re: Team3S: How much hp/torque can stock clutch hold?

I was running stock turbos/fueling at 15psi and the stock clutch with 25000
miles held up just fine. Had quite a few 1.8X 60 foots with it. Keep in mind
I
don't slip the clutch during launches, I just dump it. Well I put my 15G's,
550's and ARC2-GP in and headed out to the country to do some tuning at 14
psi
on 91 octane. I did about 4-1/4 mile runs and the stock clutch held up to
that
too. On the way back from the countryside on the highway I downshifted to
third at 60mph and punched it and the clutch started slipping bad. I drove
normal for another 5 minutes and punched it and it slipped again. Not good.
Right after that I had it switched with a Stage II RPS and all is well
now...

Trevor

Sue Smith wrote:

> With all this talk of RPS clutches going bad, I was wondering how good the
> stock one was?  Will it hold up to 15Gs at 15 psi or so on pump gas?  If
> not, what kind of clutch is now the "recommended" one?  Someone please
> answer.
> Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Why pay for something you could get for free?
> NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
> http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:42:44 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Formula 1 Report -- Very Long

The pump gasoline is correct. It isn't anywhere near 118 octane. Your
0-100 time is way off! The modern 2000 F1 car goes from 0-100-0 in 6
seconds. Think about it the Porsche 911 turbo was blitzing the 0-100-0
competition with just under 11 seconds. This is down from some years ago
when the F1 car would travel from 0-100 in about 2 ticks. At the race
they had Villneuve's car on Diamond vision with tach that was limited to
17,500. It was bouncing off this mark agressively. He never was below
10,000 revs for a whole lap

Rich
92 Stealth TT

Jim Berry wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
> > The engines generate about 850 hp on pump gasoline and rev to
> > 16,500 rpm. 0-60 takes 2 sec, 0-100 is 5 sec.
>
> One of the television announcers said the gasoline [ fuel ] was 118
> octane unleaded --- that should control our detonation problem. Not
> quite pump gas, not any pumps in my area anyway.
>
> Sounds like you had fun --- being a big shot sure would be fun. A friend
> of mine gets us  passes to a suite for the NHRA winter nationals and spring
> nationals, and, while nowhere near the same level as the treatment you
> describe it sure is fun to watch the riff-raff from the air conditioned
> confines of a suite, to say nothing of being able to get within 50 feet of
> fuel dragster if you wish. Acceleration is a tad quicker and at 50 feet you
> almost can't breathe at launch.
>
>         Jim Berry
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:00:56 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Shredding Kumhos

What about running the Kumho V700's up front and run the same size street
tires in the rear?  Wouldn't that help balance the car better?  The car
tends to understeer because the front loses traction before the rear does.
I'm not saying put 80k mile all seasons on the rear, but a good quality tire
like MXX3's or similar would help bring the car into better balance, correct
(that is, causing the front and rear to break loose at closer to the same
point)?

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: <stealth@stls.verio.net>; <opentracking@topica.com>;
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: Shredding Kumhos


> So, what do you folks think I should do about it? I have an event at Road
> America next weekend, so I gotta order two replacement tires tomorrow.


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:45:59 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: exhaust

Someone pointed out the fact that the O2 sensors does not dig leaded fuel.

It would be prudent to add this to the cat/catless discussion.  Although
running without cats will make it possible to run leaded fuel thru the car,
the O2 sensors will get coated with lead and eventually fail.  It is not
clear how long you can get by with leaded fuel before the O2 sensors go, but
common consensus seem to be that a few tanks of leaded will be ok in the 3/S
cars.  Personally I run thru 5 gallons of high octane leaded every now and
then and I haven't yet noticed any problems, except the pissed off drivers
of the other cars...

Oskar
'95 R/T TT
12.6@108 on stock turbos

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>; <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: exhaust


> My personal opinion after having used both the HKS twin tip exhaust, and
now
> the Borla.  Go with the Borla.  It is stainless, weighs less, looks
cooler,
> sounds more aggressive and is less expensive.  I thought the HKS was too
> heavy, and I didn't like the sound it made while under throttle.  Again,
> these are personal opinions.
>
> - Cats are good for emission.
> - These cars have too many cats
> - No pre-cats improve spool-up and flow.
> - No main cat improves spool-up and flow a tad bit more.
> - No cats let you use leaded fuel.
>
> The more cats you remove, the louder the car is going to be.
> Also, when I use no cats I've noticed that the exhaust fumes are more
> pronounced.
>
> Maybe gut the pre-cats and get a high flow main cat to go with your Borla!
>
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
> To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 1:03 PM
> Subject: Team3S: exhaust
>
>
> > Exhaust. Which one? HKS or Borla? Cats or Not?
> >
> > I am after a near stock look i.e twin outlets not one side only but with
> > better breath capability.
> >
> > Roger I believe you may have most experience on this ? Do you have the
> part
> > numbers for the Bprla and ATR setup you did?
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 07:00:35 -0400
From: "Michael S. Steinebach" <mikala.s@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Split Second for SALE!!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=451720920
I have a split second for sale on Ebay at the link above. :)  take a look

Michael


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #277
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