team3s
Tuesday, September 26
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
276
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Sep 2000 00:09:02 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RPS clutch problems continue!!
As this is getting off
topic, I'm going to say my piece and let it rest.
Let me tell you
about "Not fair":
I have installed 4 RPS clutches in my car over the past
2.5 years.
3 Flywheel turning @ 45.00
135.00
Replace one flywheel ~ 225.00 225.00
Labor to do all
the clutches (fair market value of 350.00) 4x
350.00
1400.00
Turn around time on the clutch replacement is around
4-6 weeks (longer in
once case)
I was expected to leave my car down in a
non-running condition while he
rebuilt my clutch so I could install it and
have it fail.
That comes to 1760.00 out of my pocket. And that
doesn't even include the
car work I "COULD" have done while messing with this
stupid clutch.
I promise you, every time I had the clutch warranted, it
was a "NEW AND
IMPROVED DESIGN" For lack of better words, this is a
bull-shit line.
The clutch going into my customer's car was originally
intended to go in my
car. Therefore I take this personally. I
would have increased my number by
one more. Not to mention the customer
has lost some faith in the products I
recommend.
As it goes, I spend
more of my time and money taking care of a warranty on a
clutch that should
have worked.
I understand that clutches and parts go bad. 10-15% is
an acceptable
number. Lets compile numbers and see the 10-15%
"happy customers" come
out.
The DSM guys feel the same way about the
RPS clutch. I have personally
replaced two GSX clutches that failed in
the first 1,000 miles.
It's time for Rob to start selling his clutches at
"prototypes" and not
"finished products".
On a different note, I have
the utmost respect for Rob as a tuner, he has
proven to be knowledgeable
tuner and a great source for other things.
I understand he is pioneering a
lot of new products and with this comes
failure. All I ask
is some honesty and someone tell me when their product
isn't
tested.
Rob, if this gets to you. You have my number.
I have a
customer who is out 400.00 in labor and had the front of his car
damaged due
to towing his vehicle.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Trevor L. James
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 9:23 PM
To:
Veilside GTO;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: RPS clutch problems continue!!
I don't think that's fair.
Supposedly they've changed the clutch composition
since everyone was having
problems. I have an RPS stage II that I bought
around
the 20th of April
& works great with about 420lbft or torque. No
slipping
during
launches or chattering around town. I've done quite a few
3.9X second 0-60's
with it according to my G-tech. Even spun all 4 tires once
for 30' just to
test
it out. (Don't try that at home kiddies) If you
purchased that clutch within
the
last few months I wouldn't
worry...
Trevor
96 Stealth R/T TT
12.65@107.9With so many new mods that time
isn't even close anymore...
92 GMC Typhoon
13.96@9.4Veilside GTO wrote:
>
Send it back....trust me....I was the customer Brad was talking about.
I
am
> not very happy with what is going on now and RPS is going to pay
for the
> labor one way or another. I am not about to fork out anout $500
+ to have
my
> mechanic's correct this mistake.
>
> Return
it and get the ACT or the stock clutch and save yourself the pain I
> am
going through.
>
> Best,
>
> Julian Huang
> 94
Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
> Team 3S
> Seattle,
Washington
>
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Walton C. Gibson
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 4:12
PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS clutch problems continue!!
>
> > I think
it's about time we put RPS on a consumer alert page. These
>
> clutches have been nothing but a pain to me and many
others.
>
> I just purchased an RPS Stage II. I have not installed
it yet, but I
> did read good things about the RPS when I ordered it. Am I
going
> to have nothing but problems out of it? If so, I'll just send it
back
> and save myself the pain of finding out the hard
way.
>
> Walton C. Gibson
>
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 22:19:33
-0700
From: "Veilside GTO" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RPS clutch problems continue!!
Well stated Oskar. I did
not mention this before but just replied to
Trevor's email. I am inclined to
believe that I have been one of those "test
beds" and am not exactly pleased
to be one of those guinea pigs. As for the
Stage II or III clutches, I don't
really care. It is afterall still from RPS
and after speaking to Brad an hour
ago, we now believe that RPS is not
recommended for the 3000GT/ Stealth.
Based on what I gather, Rob is a nice
person but those clutches are just not
holding for the 3S.
Worse of all, the RPS clutch I bought was suppose to
go into Brad's 3000 but
he never got a chance to install it as he has the OS
Giken on his car.
Hence, he sold it to me at a reasonable price. Initially I
posted on this
list and the Starnet list, but the responses as Oskar
mentioned were
pitiful. I understand that there were quite a few threads
earlier about this
topic but still.. ...Now when my RPS decides to give up on
me after 700+
miles, everyone starts speaking up. Brad was also convinced at
first that
the RPS clutch had changed and now was better built. He regrets
saying that
and takes this seriously as the clutch he sold me was suppose to
go into his
car..I had to be the unlucky one to test it. Either way, I am
getting RPS to
pay for the labor involved in taking the clutch out and will
never get an
RPS again. This whole matter was unnecessary as it is costing me
a lot of
money and time. To make matters worse, it cracked my front bumper as
the car
had to be towed. Now, I have to pay for getting the clutch out,
buying a new
clutch to put in, and have my car sent back to the bodyshop to
have the
bumper removed, fixed, repainted and refitted - ALL of this wasted
time and
money over a CLUTCH! My car will at least be gone for the next month
which
is like a year for me - I am sure some of u will understand
that!
It is either the ACT or the stock clutch. I have resigned from the
Starnet
list as it is useless.
Enough said, so end this thread - What
is done is done. It has to be
remedied. I know this is off topic so I won't
post this again. I just had to
voice my comments. I apologize
Bob.
Regards,
Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO
tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Oskar
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 9:53 PM
To: Trevor L.
James; Veilside GTO;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: RPS clutch problems continue!!
I am of a different
opinion, and think that anyone buying an RPS unit need
to think twice before
proceeding.
Why - because while Rob Smith acknowledges that there is a
problem, he is
not taking the correct measures to address it. When I
last spoke with RPS
(early this summer) I was being told by the sales staff
(Gary) that
everything was ok. Since I refused to believe this I
eventually got to
speak with Rob. He told me that they had recently
discovered that the
pressure plates did not have the clamping force they
advertised. In fact,
early indications were that they had less clamping
force than the stock
units.
Excerpt of phone conversation:
Me: What!!!
- Gary just told me that everything was ok.
Rob: Well, we haven't told the
sales staff yet.
Me: When did you find this out?
Rob: Oh, about two weeks
ago.
Strike one - that is just not acceptable to me. I want to be
informed of
these kinds of things by the guy that takes my CC number.
Also, vendors
should be informed, and all stock returned to the
manufacturer. Actually,
why not inform your customers who recently
bought from you?!
Back to the conversation with Rob: So, then I'm told to
send the unit in and
they will "shim it up for me".
Strike two -
sounds unscientific - I was just told there was currently no
way of correctly
testing the clamping force of 3000GT pressure plates. How
can you
possibly shim it correctly?
Then I ask what the disc is made of, my
original disk was all carbon.
Rob: Oh we now make them in a six puck style
with alternating carbon and
ceramic pucks.
Me: Oh so it has been changed
from what I initially ordered?
Rob: Yeah, we figured the ceramic would wear
longer...
Me: Yeah, what are the results of your testing?
Rob: Well, we
have shipped out quite a few of these
Me: What is the long term test results
then?
Rob: Well, should be good...
Strike three - you're out. I
don't want to pay $500 to get the honor of
testing out your stuff
I
think that RPS has been experimenting with the 3000GT clutches, and have
been
using us as their test bed. Personally I'm not interested in this,
at
least not when I'm paying for it. Anyone who buys an RPS clutch
should be
aware of the fact that you may not get what you think you're
getting. When
you hear the claims of their fantastic clutches, ask how
they have been
holding up in 3000GTs. Ask for references of paying
customers who are
running similar HP as you are. The only reference I
was given was Mike of
Altered Atmosphere. Well that is cute, but he is
a vendor of RPS products.
I called him anyway and it turns out he had barely
got the unit in the car
at the time of our conversation. Some
reference!
It would be nice if people that were happy with their stage
III RPS clutches
would speak up. I asked this question on this mailing
list last spring, and
the results were pitiful. Based on my
conversations with Rob, and the
absence of people who were happy with their
RPS Stage III clutches I ended
up returning my unused clutch for a full
refund. RPS also paid for the
return postage - very nice!
People
running moderate HP, as I am, have been happy with stock clutches,
and
ACTs. I'll be getting myself one of these instead.
BTW - I
referenced the stage III unit thruout this e-mail because the
problems I have
heard of are all related to the Stage III clutch. Maybe the
others are
ok?
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
> I don't
think that's fair. Supposedly they've changed the clutch
composition
>
since everyone was having problems. I have an RPS stage II that I
bought
around
> the 20th of April & works great with about 420lbft
or torque. No slipping
during
> launches or chattering around town.
I've done quite a few 3.9X second
0-60's
> with it according to my
G-tech. Even spun all 4 tires once for 30' just to
test
> it out.
(Don't try that at home kiddies) If you purchased that clutch
within
the
> last few months I wouldn't worry...
>
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 22:26:49
-0700
From: "Connelly, Jay" <
jay.connelly@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: help - EVC problem
Hey there -
For some reason, my Apex
EVC seems to be having problems. Last Friday, I
got passed by a
Jaguar Xk8:-(. During the run, I noticed that my boost
never went above
0.012Bar according to the EVC (about 7PSI on the stock
gauge). On the
vacuum side, it never went below -073. When operating
properly, I was
getting 1.1Bar on the positive side and -373 or so on the
vacuum. When
I got home and licked my wounds, I checked all the hoses and
they seemed
fine. I disconnected the COM port and it ran fine. Boost was
all
there (+!4PSI on the stock gauges, probably 1.2Bar or so by the seat of
my
pants).
After reconnecting the COM port, still nothing over
0.012Bar. I took the 4
screws off the controller and everything looked
fine. After reconnecting,
now the I have even stranger problems.
The controller never moves from
.004Bar (up or down). The stock gauge
now goes to 14PSI over 4000RPM and it
feels better than when I lost to the
Jag but nowhere near the 1.1Bar it
normally runs at.
Any
thoughts? Anyone ever had similar weirdness?
Thanks in
Advance -
Jay Connelly
'93 VR4. K&N, Hennessey FPR, EVC, Turbo
downpipe, Hennessey exhaust, high
flow cat, ...
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 08:36:02
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Differential type on VR-4?
Jeff,
Thanks
and I did use the manuals (thanks Vineet) to find the exploded
diagrams of
the parts but that was only somewhat helpful. I was looking at
a Subaru
page which I admit has different setups for AWD then we do (I
think) but I
was looking for more general terms to describe the things.
Their
page had a Ferguson type and a TORSEN (TORque SENsing) type and I
was
wondering which one we had. The Ferguson type was with viscous
fluid
flowing around discs with holes in them. The TORSEN was a worm
gear with
splines on them and is engaged when power is applied to it and in
braking
(the Ferguson is only useful when power is applied and there is a
slipping
involved). However, the description of the TORSEN type has a
Hypoid gear in
it and the Ferguson does not. Upon examining the
description of gear ratios
and things in the differential I see it is
described as a Hypoid gear. Now
I don't know what it is since it
appears to have some Ferguson design and
some TORSEN design.
I sent the link to this page if anyone read it as that was my
initial
question. After looking at our manuals I saw the exploded views
of the
transfer case, differential, rear axle, etc. but I couldn't tell what
type
it was or if it were a different one completely. I saw the discs
and no
worm gear so I assume it is more like the Ferguson type on the Subaru
page.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com1995
Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [
mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Monday, September 25, 2000 4:35 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Differential type on VR-4?
Darren,
The service manuals
pretty much explain and diagram our drive train
setup. The rear diff has a
viscous coupling unit inside of it to give
it limited slip capability. The
center diff (inside the transaxle) is
also a viscous coupling setup. Its
output shaft is geared to the
front diff and also goes to the transfer case.
The front diff (also
inside the transaxle) is an open type. The center
diff/VC unit is
responsible for the torque split in our AWD cars. For details
on gear
reduction ratios please check out the page below at my web
site.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-gears.htmJeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
To:
"Team3S (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 25, 2000 12:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: Differential type on
VR-4?
What type of differentials are on the VR-4? I see a Subaru
site
(
http://www.imprezawrx.org/)
which gives some great details but I
want to learn more. This page,
http://www.imprezawrx.org/tech/tech2.html,
has some good data but I
don't know what type we have or if it is another
breed completely
different.
- --Flash!
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 07:47:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Correct way to have our cars towed
After reading Julian Huang's
recent post about front end damage from
towing I thought I might relate my 2
towing experiences this summer
for my Stealth TT - both were flat bed
tows.
The wrong way: The operator loaded my car onto the flat bed
front-end
first. The chains/cables inevitably tear the air dam below
the
bumper. "Fortunately" mine was already torn when I bought the car
-
now I know why. A black cable tie repaired the damage.
The correct
way: The operator loaded my car onto the flat bed
rear-end first and used
blocks of wood as neccessary under the wheels
to keep the front end elevated
to keep the aero parts from scraping.
The chains/cables do no damage to the
rear when using the tow hooks.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 10:07:05
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Correct way to have our cars towed
> The chains/cables do no
damage to the rear when using the tow hooks.
This is an aside, since tow
hooks reminded me of this. When I
installed my borla, the resonator on the
driver's side rested right
against the adjacent tow hook. I used the
hangers, so this was the
"default" hanging position. The resonator rattled
like crazy against
the hook when I drove it, so I took the hook off it.
Rattle gone.
Anyone else have this problem? Know anything I could stick
between them so as to make the rattle go away?
Walton C.
Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 10:19:18
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Correct way to have our cars towed
> This is an aside,
since tow hooks reminded me of
> this. When I installed my borla, the
resonator on
> the driver's side rested right against the
> adjacent
tow hook.
You can loosen the clamp that holds the resonator onto the pipe
and rotate
the resonator a little bit to gain clearance away from the tow
hook.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 10:25:15
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Correct way to have our cars towed
> You can loosen the clamp
that holds the resonator onto the pipe and
> rotate the resonator a little
bit to gain clearance away from the tow
> hook.
I'll give that a
shot, thanks.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 13:10:34
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: Check Engine Light
Sorry if this has been covered before. The
"Check Engine" Warning Light
came on while I was driving my '92 VR4 to lunch
today. According to the
owner's manual, this indicates a problem with the
exhaust gas emissions.
Does this mean that my O2 sensor is bad, or is there
something else I
should look for? Is this something to be concerned about? I
haven't done
anything to the car recently and it has been running fine. This
light has
never come on before, except for a few seconds during the initial
startup.
Jeff.
'92 VR4
Belleville, MI
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 10:31:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: CAPS program
Hi Ken,
1. Run the program.
2.
Double-click in "model" and select 13 (53H Z10# 3000GT). You
select by
clicking on the 13 line and then on "OK"
3. A new window pops up with our 3
models; select one. 1 (Z11A), 2
(Z15A), or 3 (Z16A, my favorite)
4.
Double-click in "Classification" and select the model.
5. Now double-click in
the box to the right of "illustration" and
find your part.
That's all
there is to it.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: "Team3S
Stealth" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 25, 2000 9:44 PM
Subject: Team3S: CAPS
program
Hey all
I downloaded the CAPS program today - that's
real nice =)
Does anyone have a better writeup on how to select the
correct
vehicle? I read the readme file and stuff and couldn't figure out
how
to pick the right car. I also want to use this program
for
compatibilty investigations, as well as regular
replacements.
Thanks so much,
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester
(NY)
__________________________________________________
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Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 10:34:11
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: CAPS program
Silly question.What is this CAPS software and what
does it do? Thanks.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave
Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart.kurek@eli.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 26, 2000 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: CAPS
program
> Hi Ken,
>
> 1. Run the program.
> 2.
Double-click in "model" and select 13 (53H Z10# 3000GT). You
> select by
clicking on the 13 line and then on "OK"
> 3. A new window pops up with
our 3 models; select one. 1 (Z11A), 2
> (Z15A), or 3 (Z16A, my
favorite)
> 4. Double-click in "Classification" and select the
model.
> 5. Now double-click in the box to the right of "illustration"
and
> find your part.
>
> That's all there is to it.
>
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
> -->
http://www.stealth316.com/>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
> To: "Team3S
Stealth" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 9:44 PM
> Subject: Team3S: CAPS
program
>
>
> Hey all
>
> I downloaded the CAPS
program today - that's real nice =)
> Does anyone have a better writeup on
how to select the correct
> vehicle? I read the readme file and stuff and
couldn't figure out how
> to pick the right car. I also want to use
this program for
> compatibilty investigations, as well as regular
replacements.
>
> Thanks so much,
> Ken Stanton
> '91
Pearl White RT/TT
> Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
>
http://im.yahoo.com/>
> ***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 19:38:50
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: help - EVC problem
I recently encountered some strange behavior
from my 1st gen. AVC-R as well. I
was driving up switchbacks in the
Alps, downshifted to first after a really
tight hairpin and nailed it, the
car pulled like hell, I shifted to second, and
boost maxed out at only .4 bar
or so (around 7 psi on stock gauge, growing
slowly to near 14 at high
RPMs). No matter what I did, I could not build boost
(setting A at .95
@ 56% BADC). I switched to my B setting (1.00 bar @ 64% BADC)
and it
made no difference. I turned off the controller and again,
no
difference. I noticed that the unit was hot to the touch and decided
to shut it
down for an hour or so. A quick look under the hood exposed
nothing suspect.
When I returned from lunch, everything was back to
normal!
The same thing happened later that day under similar
circumstances: I hammered
2nd gear rolling through a changing traffic light,
it boosted rapidly, then it
shut itself down again. Not sure what the
problem was. It could have been that
it radically overshot my max boost
setting (doubtful, since my BADC is pretty
conservative), it could have been
heat (unit is mounted in the armrest console
sandwiched between the wall and
a turbo timer) or it could be related to my dead
battery (since replaced with
an Optima Red Top). At any rate, this problem has
yet to
reoccur.
The other oddity was drastic changes in BADC requirements.
Normally, 56% BADC
will achieve .95 bar no problem, but a few times I had to
bump it up to the high
60% range. I blamed it on the weather at the
time (perhaps humidity and
temperature were factors), but perhaps something
more sinister was going on. Or
maybe it was all related to the dead
battery - as with the above, I have not
experienced this since installing the
Optima.
Good luck... -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich,
Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPH)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors,
RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 11:48:09
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: CAPS program
Mitsubishi Computerized Automatic Parts
Searching (CAPS) system. It
is what the dealers use to find part numbers for
the parts you want.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Bart Kurek" <
bart_kurek@eli.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 26, 2000 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: CAPS
program
Silly question.What is this CAPS software and what does it
do?
Thanks.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc.
(ELIX)
http://www.eli.netmailto:bart.kurek@eli.net__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
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Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:30:56
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine Light
> Sorry if this has been covered
before. The "Check Engine"
> Warning Light came on while I was driving my
'92 VR4 to
> lunch today. According to the owner's manual,
this
> indicates a problem with the exhaust gas emissions.
> Does
this mean that my O2 sensor is bad, or is there
> something else I should
look for? Is this something to
> be concerned about? I haven't done
anything to the car
> recently and it has been running fine.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery for a couple minutes to
clear
whatever trouble code is in the ECU and then see if the light comes
back on
again. If it doesn't, figure that something got whacky for a
bit and is
okay now. If it comes back, you can rig up a resistor and
LED on a wire to
get the codes flashed to you via the diagnostic port or take
it to the
dealer and they can read the error code for you.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 13:35:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Correct way to have our cars towed
I had a similar problem
with the ATR muffler and the driver's-side
tow hook. I removed the tow hook
and the rattle was gone. The rattle
was due to my install, not ATR's design.
The tow truck operator used
something near the rear axles instead of the
hooks. I don't remember
what but it didn't hurt anything.
Jeff Lucius,
3SI #476
-->
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 26, 2000 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Correct way to have
our cars towed
> The chains/cables do no damage to the rear when using
the tow
hooks.
This is an aside, since tow hooks reminded me of this.
When I
installed my borla, the resonator on the driver's side rested right
against the adjacent tow hook. I used the hangers, so this was the
"default" hanging position. The resonator rattled like crazy against
the
hook when I drove it, so I took the hook off it. Rattle gone.
Anyone else
have this problem? Know anything I could stick
between them so as to make
the rattle go away?
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 16:46:27
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
MD Auto trannys...
Hello everyone =)
Does anyone else have a
tranny from MD Auto? I have a 'reman' 5-speed
in mine and I believe it
needs to go back for a warranty claim. I've
called them several times
to get printed info on their warranty (to
cover _my_ behind) and to no
avail!
Anyone else have any experience with them?
Thanks so
much!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3SI
Rochester
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 04:49:58
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Manual Controller woes
Can someone explain to me why a EBC is
better than a manual boost
controller, that controls boost using a ball and
spring design?
www.dejontool.com even
has affordable dual and triple setting MANUAL
boost controllers for quite a
bit less than an EBC.
The only reason I would get an EBC is for ease of
settability (in
cockpit)... but once a ball spring controller is set, it
stays rock
solid... at least for me, my friends, and even an 11 second car in
the
area (not to mention Eric Plebani's 9 second car).
Personally, I
could spend 300$ on better things than an EBC. I don't
even have my boost
guage in full view at all times (it's in the glove
compartment. Any major
increase or decrease in performance would be
felt by me immediately, so I
just set and forget it.
Vineet Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 13:58:39
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MD Auto trannys...
I have a copy of their flyer. It
says "*Units guaranteed for 12 months,
unlimited miles at that time". I
can fax
you a copy if you like although the pictures in my copy are barely
visible, the
text if fine though.
What symptoms are you
experiencing?
> Does anyone else have a tranny from MD Auto? I
have a 'reman' 5-speed
> in mine and I believe it needs to go back for a
warranty claim. I've
> called them several times to get printed info
on their warranty (to
> cover _my_ behind) and to no avail!
> Anyone
else have any experience with them?
- --
Forget world peace --
visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:42:25
-0700
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <
Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: light weight wheels
Has anyone tried "Formula" wheels?
They
are light weight, and a decent price. Quite often that means they
are too
weak for our hefty cars.
Here is a link to them. If anyone has experience
with them, good or bad,
please reply.
http://www.wholesalewheel.com/FORMULA.htmAnother
question. Is 17x7 too narrow for our cars?
Thanks
- --
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com Motorola
Network Field Engineering Phone: (619) 933-1700
2121
Palomar Airport Road, Suite 301 Fax: (760)
603-4920
Carlsbad, CA.
92009
Pager:
(888)
694-0222
- -You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
-
-Who gets the change? Think about it. O-
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 13:20:12
-0700
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: APEXi AVC-R Boost controller
Hi,
I have half installed the
APEXi AVC-R boost controller, I have been told
that the green wire has to be
connected to display the injecter duty cycle,
it will not work properly
unless this wire is connected.
Who can tell me where to connect this wire to,
do I just connect it to one
of the injector outputs or is there a special
place for it.
Steve Cooper
http://www.nzgto.cjb.net(Some dead
links)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:12:45
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rotor Update
I finally had to order a new set of Porterfield
cryogenically treated stock
rotors.
After four weekend open tracking
events, several autocrosses, four sets of
pads, and a couple hundred laps
around the Marshalltown International
Speedway, I finally wore them down to
where they can no longer be turned.
They are 0.100 in. below the "throwaway"
spec, so we cleaned them up and
I'm keeping them as spares.
For all
you doubting Thomases out there, the cryogenic treatment really
works to
prevent warpage. I experienced pad temperatures of 1400 F on the
Porterfield
R4 pads (they turned white at the edges, a sign of 1400 F
according to
Porterfield), yet the total warpage of those rotors was 0.06
in. on one, and
0.04 in. on the other after all those events. Hardly worth
mentioning.
Maybe my cooling ducts and water injection helped.
The Pagid Blacks
worked OK too. As I mentioned before, I got through an
entire weekend at
Heartland Park without having to change pads, and when we
pulled them out
today they had about 1/8 in. of pad left, enough for a
half-day more track
time. I am trying Hawk Blues this time.
Thanks to Ken Middaugh, I got
the 20% 3Si discount without question from
Porterfield.
I also
ordered a set of residual pressure valves (2 psi check valves) for
the rears.
We'll try to install those before next weekend (Oct 8-9) when I
run at Road
America. If we get them in, I'll have a report afterward.
Attention Big
Red caliper people: We noticed that the upper outboard
pistons on both
calipers were showing definite signs of seal damage. The
other three pistons
on both calipers were fine. Anybody else experience
this? Is there a repair
kit for the pistons? Kinda weird that it would be
the same piston on both
calipers, and only after one set of pads.
Rich
94 VR4
Big Red
Porsche 993 twin turbo calipers
Porterfield cyrogenically treated stock
rotors
BFG stainless steel brake lines front and rear
Ford high
performance brake fluid.
Kumho tires
Ground Control adjustable
suspension
Stock motor
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 20:06:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: light weight wheels
BOLK TE-37??!! These are knock-off wheels of
the Volk
TE37...
I actually saw a set last weekend in a wheel
shop..
had the brand "Formula" on the wheel.. didnt know they
tried to
call it BOLK TE37!! thats kinda gay~ but it
actually looks pretty nice~ Saw a
set that has
bent/angled spokes (dunno what offset).. looks pretty
good..
i don't like the straight/flat spokes look..
They're pretty light
alright.. but i don't think they
are forged.. therefore, not strong enough..
the real
TE37's are forged wheels.. light and very strong!
besides,
those sizes are not going to fit our TT's...
it will fit the NA's...
I would imagine it would actually look nice on the
NA's.. and the
wheel strength shouldn't matter on the
NA's either.. i think..
=)
Good luck,
George
- --- Todd Schmalzried <
Q11981@email.mot.com> wrote:
>
Has anyone tried "Formula" wheels?
> They are light weight, and a decent
price. Quite
> often that means they
> are too weak for our hefty
cars.
>
> Here is a link to them. If anyone has experience
>
with them, good or bad,
> please reply.
>
http://www.wholesalewheel.com/FORMULA.htm>
> Another question. Is 17x7 too narrow for our cars?
>
>
Thanks
> --
> Todd
Schmalzried
>
q11981@email.mot.com >
Motorola Network Field Engineering Phone: (619)
>
933-1700
> 2121 Palomar Airport Road, Suite 301 Fax:
(760)
> 603-4920
> Carlsbad, CA.
92009
Pager: (888)
>
694-0222
> -You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for
> your
thoughts"
> -Who gets the change? Think about it. O-
>
> *** Info:
>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#276
*********************