team3s Saturday,
September 23 2000 Volume
01 : Number
273
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 22 Sep 2000 09:00:30 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Manual Controller woes
> My wrench is now trying to find a
suitable manual valve -- perhaps one we
> could adjust from inside the
car. Any ideas? I know you guys buy aquarium
> valves, but I was thinking
more like an industrial manifold valve with an
> electric actuator.
Wouldn't it be nice to be able to adjust the boost
> pressure with a knob
or a 2- or 3-position switch?
Bahh, I simply do not understand why you
don0't go for an EBC since months
(or years) ??? You will never ever get the
same behaviour with any
non-controlled device, even a Halmann bleeder valve
is a type that is
controlled by boost and is not able to change the behaviour
of the cvalve on
the fly to achieve a fast boost build-up and then a good
hold of it. As you
are a serious track driver go for a good controller and
you'll not on this
problem again (I'd say go for the Blitz to retune it easiy
for different
tracks).
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 07:41:29
-0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Manual Controller woes
Rich,
I have tried a industrial
valve with a pressure controller to control when
it kicks on. It works
but the response is such that the boost cycles and it
never holds a steady
level. You have to cycle the valve at a high rate to
get a steady boost
level, something that a simple on/off controller will not
do fast
enough. The controller I used was from Keyence and has a nice
pressure
display and an adjustable output for the solenoid. I have since
went to
a grainer ball and spring valve, see
http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/boostcontroller.htm
for the details. I
also dropped my custom block and just used the
original housing that you get
from Grainger. There are some good links
on that page to others who have
done the same mod.
TurboXS make allot of
manual controllers also http://www.turboxs.com
Hope it
helps.
Kevin Schappell
Learn more about your car
http://www.AutoEducation.com
Online
Mobile Audio SuperStore
http://mobilesounds.vstorecar.com
3SI
members.... you have to see this page
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead/mitsu2.htm
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Merritt
> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 5:52 PM
> To:
stealth@starnet.net; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: Team3S: Manual Controller woes
>
>
> I'm back to a
stock boost control system.
>
> We could not make the Redline manual
boost controller work.
> My mechanic
> took it off the car and set
it up on a flow bench and ran
> compressed air
> through it at rates
0-15 psi. The valve has a spring-loaded ball that
> doesn't work for
diddley. We ran all sorts of pressure tests on it to
> simulate increasing
boost pressure, and it opened and closed
> and chattered
> and
oscillated all over the place. No wonder we couldn't get
> it to work
on
> the car. What a piece of junk.
>
> My wrench is now
trying to find a suitable manual valve --
> perhaps one we
> could
adjust from inside the car. Any ideas? I know you guys
> buy
aquarium
> valves, but I was thinking more like an industrial
manifold
> valve with an
> electric actuator. Wouldn't it be nice to
be able to adjust the boost
> pressure with a knob or a 2- or 3-position
switch?
>
> Rich/94 VR4
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:54:54
-0400
From: "Fred Richardson" <rich@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: What is
this car? ES or RT
Dear team:
Vineet's little gift
CAPS program says the VIN on the car belongs to an
RT TT. This one sure has
had a makeover.
Regards,
Fred
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 06:29:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer case Fill???????HELP!!!!!!!!
Rick,
Please
take a look at the following page on changing our clutch.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-trany.htm
There
is a pic at the end of a tool I made to check the transfer case
fluid level.
There is no blockage in my 1992 xfer case. Also I have
pics of the drain and
filler plugs for 5-sp transaxle, xfer case, and
rear diff at:
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-awddrainfill.htm
Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
--> http://www.stealth316.com/
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <melvin@gamewood.net>
To: "Basol,
John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>; <stealth@starnet.net>
Cc: <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 21, 2000 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case
Fill???????HELP!!!!!!!!
OK,Now I am confused!The car is a '92 T/T. Does
it have a fill to
plug or not?And if so is it the 14mm head plug I found
finger tight,
that is on the drivers side by the exhaust?It has some kind
of
blockage so you can't stick anything in past the threads,but I
guess
fluid would pass.And if this is the fill to plug ,I do need to
fill
the case till oil comes out of
it?
RICK
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 06:55:00
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Manual Controller woes
I am always amazed when I see people
add a bleeder valve inline with
the stock controller. As we all know, to
increase boost we send the
incorrect pressure signal to the wastegates to
delay their opening.
The pressure signal comes from the small hose attached
to the Y-pipe.
If you clamp that hose tight, there is no pressure signal, and
the
wastgate shouldn't open. (They may actually still open if there
is
more volume than the turbine can handle or weak springs but those
are
seperate problems.) In fact in my car the wastegate should never
open
with my current setup - but that is another story.
Rich, as
others have mentioned, you should be using an ebc which will
eliminate the
stock bc and all its limitations. But for only the
price of a screw clamp (a
metal rectangle with a bar in the middle
that moves up and down by a screw)
you can restrict the pressure in
the small hose that comes off the Y-pipe and
have a perfectly
adequate (non-spiking) bc. Much safer than trying to
control
pressurized venting plus it requires no "professional"
mechanic
skills whatsoever. That is what I ran without problems (with a
real
boost gauge) before getting the EVC IV.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
--> http://www.stealth316.com/
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<stealth@starnet.net>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 21, 2000 3:51 PM
Subject: Team3S: Manual Controller
woes
I'm back to a stock boost control system.
We could not make
the Redline manual boost controller work. My
mechanic took it off the car and
set it up on a flow bench and ran
compressed air through it at rates 0-15
psi. The valve has a
spring-loaded ball that doesn't work for diddley. We ran
all sorts of
pressure tests on it to simulate increasing boost pressure, and
it
opened and closed and chattered and oscillated all over the place.
No
wonder we couldn't get it to work on the car. What a piece of
junk.
My wrench is now trying to find a suitable manual valve --
perhaps
one we could adjust from inside the car. Any ideas? I know you
guys
buy aquarium valves, but I was thinking more like an
industrial
manifold valve with an electric actuator. Wouldn't it be nice to
be
able to adjust the boost pressure with a knob or a 2- or
3-position
switch?
Rich/94
VR4
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
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Messenger.
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***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 10:58:31
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
Matt is totally right.....
I'm kind of laughing at all this talk about what
a 91 Stealth ~should~
have.
This car "is" a 91 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo. It was in an
accident, because
the side skirts were replaced with 91-93 Base/ES side
skirts. The entire
car has had a paint job because the roof should be
black and it looks like
they painted over the rear lettering
decals.
As an FYI, sunroofs were not available in 1991 models of any
3/Ses. Leather
was an option in all years of the Stealth Twin
Turbo. That is the stock
radio they used in 91-92 models. In 93 they
switched to the Infinity radio.
But my advise is the same as others....
Stay away from this Stealth. It
looks like it has had a hard
life.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
>From:
"Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
Team3S <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
>Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000
00:52:19 -0500
>
>Nope, sunroof was optional on both Stealth TT and
VR4 from '91 to '97.
>They
>only became standard on SL's and
VR4's in 1998 and 1999.
>
>Yup, part of the screwy doors and rear
quarter panel. Those appear to be
>base Stealth parts, as the base
model didn't have the side
pseudo-ducts.
>
_________________________________________________________________________
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***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 09:04:21
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
What's the VIN? I'll run it through
my carfax.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc.
(ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
<team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, September 22, 2000 8:58 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: What is this car? ES
or R/T
> Matt is totally right..... I'm kind of laughing at
all this talk about
what
> a 91 Stealth ~should~ have.
>
>
This car "is" a 91 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo. It was in an accident,
because
> the side skirts were replaced with 91-93 Base/ES side
skirts. The entire
> car has had a paint job because the roof should
be black and it looks like
> they painted over the rear lettering
decals.
>
> As an FYI, sunroofs were not available in 1991 models of
any 3/Ses.
Leather
> was an option in all years of the Stealth Twin
Turbo. That is the stock
> radio they used in 91-92 models. In 93
they switched to the Infinity
radio.
>
> But my advise is the
same as others.... Stay away from this Stealth. It
> looks like it
has had a hard life.
>
> later,
> Curt
> http://www.mn3s.org
>
>
>
>From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
>To: Team3S <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
> >Date:
Fri, 22 Sep 2000 00:52:19 -0500
> >
> >Nope, sunroof was
optional on both Stealth TT and VR4 from '91 to '97.
> >They
>
>only became standard on SL's and VR4's in 1998 and 1999.
>
>
> >Yup, part of the screwy doors and rear quarter panel.
Those appear to be
> >base Stealth parts, as the base model didn't have
the side pseudo-ducts.
> >
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> Share
information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> http://profiles.msn.com.
>
>
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 09:36:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:39:38 -0400
I just had a quick
question. I have a '92 Stealth (plain ol' model) and I
have that
"power/economy" button. What does it exactly do? Please don't just
answer
that it makes my car go faster ;)
Thank you all!
Best
Regards
Dusan
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:18:51
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:39:38 -0400
> I just had a quick
question. I have a '92
> Stealth (plain ol' model) and I have that
>
"power/economy" button. What does it exactly
> do? Please don't just
answer that it makes
> my car go faster ;)
Power mode moves the
shift points of the auto tranny higher when you've got
your foot hard on the
gas. Economy mode shifts a little smoother and at
lower RPM's when
accelerating slower to improve fuel economy.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:19:20
-0500
From: "Greg S." <wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:39:38 -0400
If it's like most of these type of
electronics switches (similar to the
"power
shift" button in my 2000 Grand
Prix GTP), what it does is tell the
automatic
transmission to stay in a
lower gear for a longer period of time before
shifting
up to the next
gear.
The idea is that by forcing the transmission to stay in a lower
gear you
get
more speed in a given gear and a faster gear shift when going
from one
gear to
the next (primarily used for passing another car on the
highway, etc.);
however,
because this allows the engine to run higher RPMs
before shifting, the
sacrifice
is higher fuel consumption. Therefore
you can have faster
passing/"power" or
fuel economy depending on your
need. Personally I run my GTP with the
economy
mode on unless I
start to approach a situation where I may need to
do
some
passing.
Greg
2000 Grand Prix GTP
1994 Dodge Stealth
R/T TT
"Dusan R. Simovic" wrote:
> I just had a quick
question. I have a '92 Stealth (plain ol' model) and I
> have that
"power/economy" button. What does it exactly do? Please don't just
>
answer that it makes my car go faster ;)
>
> Thank you all!
>
Best Regards
> Dusan
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 15:14:14
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
It's like Automotive Clue or the
Auto version of "I've Got A Secret" or
"What's My Line?" Now wouldn't
THAT be a fun game?
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com
3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi
http://www.3kgt.com <http://www.3kgt.com> - "Car pictures"
then "Readers'
4" page
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt
Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
>
Matt is totally right..... I'm kind of laughing at all this talk
about
what
> a 91 Stealth ~should~ have.
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:54:02
-0700
From: Leonard Dy <LDy@acssys.com>
Subject: Team3S: possible
damages?
Car flooded in a parking lot early last week when the rains hit
hard. To
make a long story short, the water got high enough to get into
the exhaust
and possibly the front turbo. When I started the car, a ton
of water shot
out of the exhaust but ran fine after letting it idle a
bit. A day or two
after this the engine makes a noise similar to belt
squeaks after starting
the car which only lasts a few seconds. Upon
examination, it sounds
like(not sure) to be coming from the front
turbo. The car was parked on a
decline where the front was lower than
the rear so water getting to the
front turbo was possible. What damage
have or could result from this
situation? I put a claim in today to my
insurance just in case it becomes a
big problem. Any
ideas?
Thanks,
Len
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:58:26
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: APEXI boost controller setup problem???--THANK YOU!!!
Sorry
Merritt,
I was hoping you would see some humor in my reply and not
sarcasm!
I was just joking--all the money you spend track racing---pads
alone--I KNOW
your not a cheapo! I too saw the instructions on these
controllers and was
kind of worried it was out of my league
installation-wise. I e-mailed Roger
early on and consulted his site 1/2
dozen times. I saw the benefits to in
car adjustment coupled with the
safety and quick response of the electronics
and I went for it. I found
once I used a shop manual, the wiring of the
Apex into the ECU was the
easiest part. I found it much tougher to get the
wires through the fire
wall then actually installing anything else!
As for
the manual boost controller, I have only heard horror stories
with our cars
coupled to manual bleeders. I have only heard of the Hallman
BC working
for some people. Are you sure you hooked the bleeder to the
bottom
solenoid hose? It had a red band on my 95. If you T d into
any
place did you make sure there were no leaks? I can see if you spike
high
once and a while, but steady overboost indicates either a defect in
the
valve, a leak from the H-connector, or your in and out on your valve
are
mixed up? On the EBCs, if you mix up the two, you get minimum boost
like .7
bar. Thats all I can think of to help out.
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
Mihai Raicu <aa2345@wayne.edu>;
Stealth <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, September 21, 2000 4:21 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: APEXI boost
controller setup problem???--THANK YOU!!!
>>Thanks Ken
Middaugh, Jack M., Sue Smith, and Sam Shelat for your helpful
>>input
on the low boost problem both my brother and I have ben having
since
>>the incomplete Apexi AVC-R installation.
>
>I've
been on these lists for more than two years now, and people seem to
>have
more problems with boost controllers than anything else. With all
due
>respect to Roger's wonderful web site and diagrams, you'd think
that
>SOMEBODY could figure out how to install these furshlugginer
boost
>controllers without our having to go through 87 kinds of hell. I
know it's
>a combination of Jap-english instructions and pisspoor
documentation (you
>should see the illiterate instructions that came with
my Redline
>controller!) plus the overwhelming complexity of our twin
turbo system, but
>geez, it ain't rocket science. It's just a bunch of
blowoff valves and a
>snake's nest of tubing and mysterious components and
weird-ass boost
>controllers.
>
>I went with a manual
controller because I thought it would be SIMPLE to
>install (I'm not
cheap, Sam). Silly me.
>
>If we could somehow combine Roger's web
site with photos and instructions
>of actual installations of specific
hardware, maybe we could solve this
>mystery.
>
>Forgive my
rant. But, like Mihai and his brother -- and countless others on
>this
list -- now I am in the middle of a boost controller
installation,
>too. God help us all, every one.
>
>Curt, I
shoulda listened to you!.
>
>Rich/old poop/94
VR4
>
>*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:35:43
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 12:39:38 -0400 - Admin Msg
Please
always use a subject that makes sense !!! Even more, it doesn't
make
sense to reply on such a subject !
Thanks
Roger for the
Admins
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 00:00:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: '94+ TT rear brake caliper questions..
Hello All,
Just
received my Reman rebuilt factory '94+ rear
calipers from Pepboys..
In
there was just the calipers.. nothing more.. few
questions:
1) Should
it come with anything else??
2) I was told my '92 TT brake lines can be
used. Can
someone confirm?
3) It seems I need the *rods* that go
thru the caliper
and brake pads.. and the metal plate that goes on
the
pads.. anyone know if the dealer sell those
separately??
4)
Anything else I need to get this conversion
done??
Thanks!
/George
'92 RT/TT
http://www.geocities.com/amkreadgto/Hybrid.html
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#273
*********************