team3s Thursday,
September 21 2000 Volume
01 : Number
272
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Sep 2000 12:25:21 -0700
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Useful info: 5 to 6 gear tranny upgrade
Dear friends:
This is an
experience that am having with my 1st gen RT TT and I thing to
share it with
all of you guys.
I bout the car having replaced the transmission to 6 gear
using a used one
from VR4 94'. Since the beginning the car was giving
me a vibration from a
rear low, that I was thinking is coming from the
supports of the axle or
the supports of the differential. I change everything
spending money to 3
deferent mechanics and the problem is the same. Nobody
can't tell me where
the vibration is coming from. The Mitsubishi dealer is
telling me that I
have to change the differential because is no good. They
quote the job for
$6,900!!!!! Than I start looking by myself to get a used
differential in
order to change it with a friend. Then I called KORMEX and
they told me
something that it makes me jump! WHEN YOU CHANGE TRANSMISSION
FROM 5 TO 6
GEARS YOU MUST TO CHANGE THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL TOO. As far as I
know my car
has the same 1st gen differential. I finally found a used one for
$850 and I
will have it replaced soon. I hope this will resolve my "marathon"
problem
and the transfer case with the front differential I hope are
ok...
Conclusion: very few mechanics they know our cars. Here in Puerto Rico
I
haven't found yet any and I thing I have to sell my be loving car because
I
can't get service! I DON'T BELIEVE IT!!
Nikos the Greek
92' RT
TT
Puerto Rico
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:55:54
-0400
From: Rick <melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer case Fill???????HELP!!!!!!!!
I can't find my CD manual
and have dropped the oil out of my transfer
case..Can someone tell me where
the fill to plug is ASAP.I found the
drain ,and the fill plug,but isn't there
a fill to
plug?Help!!!,THANKS,(A picture would be
nice)
RICK
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 08:01:32
+1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: APEXI boost controller setup problem???--THANK YOU!!!
>
I've been on these lists for more than two years now,
> and people seem to
have more problems with boost
> controllers than anything else. With
all due respect
> to Roger's wonderful web site and diagrams, you'd
think
> that SOMEBODY could figure out how to install these
>
furshlugginer boost controllers without our having to
> go through 87
kinds of hell.
Problem is that each one is different, and some are
much
easier to install than others. I would have to say that
the
Blitz would be one of the easiest, please no flames,
I did say "one of"
:)
Roger's site is what got me to install one in the first
place, and
I can honestly say that the Blitz DSBC is a no
brainer to install (I had not
touched a car before adding
the Blitz). I then went on to have a go at
the spark plugs,
which was a bigger job, but if you blowup a photocopy
of
an engine diagram and place (and label) all removed object
on that
diagram then putting things back is a breeze...
having done it once, it gets
much faster and easier on each
subsequent time.
While pictures are a
great idea, they get really messy in,
and around, the engine
compartment. The parts on Roger's
site that REALLY helped me were the
diagrams in his "turbo"
section. Using the first picture (of the stock
setup) to
compare to what I could locate in the car, and then using
the
second picture (with the controller) and see what needs
to be changed - this
really helped clear up any questions I
had concerning what to "cap" and where
the "in" and "out"
hoses go. While these may not be completely relevant
I think
they do go a long way to clear up many questions realated
to
installs.
What a stock setup looks like:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/prinzip5t.gif
The
changes made for a Boost controller (ignore the dotted line
between the
Solenoid valve and the boost measurement hose):
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/prinzipt.gif
Cheers,
Kevin.
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:58:53
-0500
From: sjc0u812@juno.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
APEXI boost controller setup problem???--THANK YOU!!!
Ken:
Okay
folks, really, it's easy. It sounds like you need to set your
BADC
higher. Yes, it takes a while to learn, but you can increase that
speed
by monitoring your BADC vs. your boost spikes. I think I started
at 60
in the inital rpm band widths and set the rest to 55. In two days
of
"testing," it was a rocket ship. Also, once you get near your
target,
set the boost to learn and it will match itself up. If you
need
pictures, I have some.
Best,
SJ
On Thu, 21 Sep 2000
09:18:44 -0600 "Ken Wheeler"
<kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
writes:
> Well, I just installed one of these bad boys and......... the
> programming
> sucks. The learning mode takes a while to
finalize its settings. I
> think
> it will be a good unit
once it gets tuned in. I went to the drag
> strip here
> in
Denver last night and couldn't get above a .78 bars because the
> unit
had
> finished learning yet. That on top of there being over twice
as
> many the
> normal racers, it was tough to get more than a
couple of runs down
> the
> strip. As soon as I get her
"tuned" in, I should be pulling mid
> 14's at
> this
altitude. It's frustrating, so have patience. A LOT of
>
patience, and
> then wait a little more. And if that doesn't work,
take a break,
> and wait a
> little while longer.
>
>
I'll also get the pics of my installation online here shortly (as
> soon
as I
> can fix my digital camera since it fell off of the desk).
>
> Thanks, Jeff, for meeting me up there and the offer to borrow your
> helmet!
> Ha Ha
>
> Ken Wheeler
> '92
RT/TT
> '67 Mustang
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: "Mihai Raicu" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
> To: "Stealth"
<team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 9:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: APEXI
boost controller setup problem???--THANK
> YOU!!!
>
>
> > Hello Team,
> >
> > Thanks Ken Middaugh, Jack
M., Sue Smith, and Sam Shelat for your
> helpful
> > input on
the low boost problem both my brother and I have ben
> having
since
> > the incomplete Apexi AVC-R installation. After reading
your
> messages, I
> am
> > finally relieved that there is
nothing wrong with our cars. Next
> weekend
> I
> >
will get to finish the entire setup (connect the AVC-R). Until
>
then, I
> need
> > to keep driving the car this way. I will
keep everyone posted on
> the
> > progress of the installation
within ~1.5 weeks. Then, I will
> probably ask
> > for
more questions with regard to the initial setup of the menus.
>
>
> > -MIKE-
> > 95 Red VR-4
> >
> > John
(my brother)
> > 94 Pearl Yellow TT
> >
> >
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:36:48
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: APEXI boost controller setup problem???--THANK
YOU!!!
Guys,
Please do not use the old geocities pages anymore.
The whole site is now
under www.rtec.ch and
will only updated there. The other pages will be
cleaned
soon.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
> What a stock setup looks
like:
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/prinzip5t.gif
>
>
The changes made for a Boost controller (ignore the dotted line
> between
the Solenoid valve and the boost measurement hose):
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/prinzipt.gif
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:37:04
-0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Transfer case Fill???????HELP!!!!!!!!
Rick, there isn't a
separate fill-to or check plug on the transfer case.
The fill plug itself is
also the check. A paper-clip with the middle loop
bent perpendicular to
the outer loop makes a nice tool for checking the
level through the plug
(gotta' credit Curt Gendron for that little bit of
Mitsu
genius!).
Hope this helps.
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick [SMTP:melvin@gamewood.net]
Sent:
Thursday, September 21, 2000 2:56 PM
To: stealth@starnet.net; Stealth
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer case Fill???????HELP!!!!!!!!
I can't find my CD manual
and have dropped the oil out of my
transfer
case..Can someone tell me
where the fill to plug is ASAP.I found the
drain ,and the fill plug,but isn't
there a fill to
plug?Help!!!,THANKS,(A picture would be
nice)
RICK
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:29:35
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Transfer case Fill???????HELP!!!!!!!!
> Rick, there isn't a
separate fill-to or check plug on the transfer
> case. The fill plug
itself is also the check. A paper-clip with the
> middle loop bent
perpendicular to the outer loop makes a nice tool for
> checking the level
through the plug (gotta' credit Curt Gendron for
> that little bit of
Mitsu genius!).
My transfer case has a level check hole which is separate
from the
fill and drain plugs. The service manual makes a distinction
between pre-93 cases and 93+ transfer cases. On mine the check
hole is
on the side, and the oil is supposed to reach right up to the
hole's
opening. On pre-93 transfer cases the fill plug (17mm plug
on the front)
doubles as the check plug. With that one you're
absolutely right about using
the paper clip.
> John Basol
> '95 RT/TT
Does your '95
transfer case not have a check hole on the side?
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:51:43
-0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Manual Controller woes
I'm back to a stock boost control
system.
We could not make the Redline manual boost controller work. My
mechanic
took it off the car and set it up on a flow bench and ran compressed
air
through it at rates 0-15 psi. The valve has a spring-loaded ball
that
doesn't work for diddley. We ran all sorts of pressure tests on it
to
simulate increasing boost pressure, and it opened and closed and
chattered
and oscillated all over the place. No wonder we couldn't get it to
work on
the car. What a piece of junk.
My wrench is now trying to find
a suitable manual valve -- perhaps one we
could adjust from inside the car.
Any ideas? I know you guys buy aquarium
valves, but I was thinking more like
an industrial manifold valve with an
electric actuator. Wouldn't it be nice
to be able to adjust the boost
pressure with a knob or a 2- or 3-position
switch?
Rich/94 VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:03:10
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Manual Controller woes
> We could not make the Redline
manual boost controller work. My mechanic
> took it off the car and set it
up on a flow bench and ran compressed air
> through it at rates 0-15 psi.
The valve has a spring-loaded ball that
> doesn't work for diddley. We ran
all sorts of pressure tests on it to
> simulate increasing boost pressure,
and it opened and closed and chattered
> and oscillated all over the
place. No wonder we couldn't get it to work on
> the car. What a piece of
junk.
>
> My wrench is now trying to find a suitable manual valve
-- perhaps one we
> could adjust from inside the car. Any ideas? I know
you guys buy aquarium
> valves, but I was thinking more like an industrial
manifold valve with an
> electric actuator. Wouldn't it be nice to be able
to adjust the boost
> pressure with a knob or a 2- or 3-position
switch?
That is what I had before my Apexi SAVC-R. See http://www.3si.org, tech tips,
bleeder valve
mod for my $33 cockpit adjustable bleeder valve. I used an
air
regulator from Grangers. A bleeder valve will work fine if you have
an
aftermarket boost gauge. A manual boost controller should be better
though.
You are the first to report on the Redline, but others report that
the Hallman
works very well. If you don't already have an aftermarket
boost gauge, then
seriously consider going directly to an electronic
controller. It is worth the
extra money.
Good luck,
Ken
-
--
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 17:06:20
-0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Transfer case Fill???????HELP!!!!!!!!
Ahhh Yes,
Curt just
reminded me of that very thing. My bad, I forgot that the
91-93 cases
did have the check plug. FWIW the 94+ cases do not. Sorry for
the
confusion. :-)
John Basol
'95 RT/TT <-- Waiting on a new
tranny. :-(
-----Original Message-----
From: Walton C.
Gibson [SMTP:kalla@tripoint.org]
Sent:
Thursday, September 21, 2000 4:30 PM
To: team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transfer case Fill???????HELP!!!!!!!!
> Rick, there isn't
a separate fill-to or check plug on the transfer
> case. The fill plug
itself is also the check. A paper-clip with
the
> middle loop
bent perpendicular to the outer loop makes a nice tool
for
> checking
the level through the plug (gotta' credit Curt Gendron
for
> that
little bit of Mitsu genius!).
My transfer case has a level check hole
which is separate from the
fill and drain plugs. The service manual makes a
distinction
between pre-93 cases and 93+ transfer cases. On mine the check
hole is on the side, and the oil is supposed to reach right up to
the
hole's opening. On pre-93 transfer cases the fill plug (17mm plug
on the
front) doubles as the check plug. With that one you're
absolutely right
about using the paper clip.
> John Basol
> '95 RT/TT
Does
your '95 transfer case not have a check hole on the side?
Walton C.
Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 17:15:03
-0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Manual Controller woes
Rich,
The DSM guys have a cockpit
adjustable manual valve that they use
and really like. They used to use
a needle/valve type controller (I myself
used one in my old DSM, worked
GREAT!), but they have since moved to a
spring/ball type controller, and
appear to like it as well. I know of one
individual using one already,
I'll see if I can part number info for you if
you wish.
John
Basol
'95 RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Thursday, September 21, 2000 4:52 PM
To: stealth@starnet.net; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Team3S: Manual Controller woes
I'm back to a stock boost control
system.
We could not make the Redline manual boost controller work.
My
mechanic
took it off the car and set it up on a flow bench and ran
compressed
air
through it at rates 0-15 psi. The valve has a spring-loaded
ball
that
doesn't work for diddley. We ran all sorts of pressure tests on
it
to
simulate increasing boost pressure, and it opened and closed
and
chattered
and oscillated all over the place. No wonder we couldn't get
it to
work on
the car. What a piece of junk.
My wrench is now
trying to find a suitable manual valve -- perhaps
one we
could adjust from
inside the car. Any ideas? I know you guys buy
aquarium
valves, but I was
thinking more like an industrial manifold valve
with an
electric actuator.
Wouldn't it be nice to be able to adjust the
boost
pressure with a knob or
a 2- or 3-position switch?
Rich/94 VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:30:16
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: APEXI boost controller setup problem???--THANK YOU!!!
The
Apexi indiglo SAVC-R should learn very easy and quickly. You should be
able
to learn a very good curve in five or six accelerations in 2nd
gear. That
should only take you a total of 6 minutes on a vacant
road. Once you get a good
curve from 2nd gear, disable 2nd gear
learning then make some 3rd gear
accelerations.
If your boost is
spiking, then learning mode gets disabled. If you are spiking,
then try
LOWERING your initial Duty Cycle setting. You should have an
initial
setting in the 40's for a boost setting around 1.05 kg/cm^^2 ~= 15
psi. Most
people set the initial Duty Cycle way too high, then
overboost in low RPM which
then disables learning.
Please let me know
if you need help tuning the SAVC-R. Once you understand how
the unit
learns and what the configuration parameters do, it becomes very easy
to
program. If I haven't sent you my previous SAVC-R posts, let me know
and
I'll send them to you. If you already have them, reread them,
especially the
description on how the unit learns. I'll try to
consolidate my old posts into
an Apexi help guide and get it on the web pages
soon.
- -Ken
> Well, I just installed one of these bad boys
and......... the programming
> sucks. The learning mode takes a
while to finalize its settings. I think
> it will be a good unit
once it gets tuned in. I went to the drag strip here
> in Denver
last night and couldn't get above a .78 bars because the unit had
>
finished learning yet. That on top of there being over twice as many
the
> normal racers, it was tough to get more than a couple of runs down
the
> strip. As soon as I get her "tuned" in, I should be pulling
mid 14's at
> this altitude. It's frustrating, so have
patience. A LOT of patience, and
> then wait a little more.
And if that doesn't work, take a break, and wait a
> little while
longer.
>
> I'll also get the pics of my installation online here
shortly (as soon as I
> can fix my digital camera since it fell off of the
desk).
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:23:43
-0400
From: Rick <melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transfer case Fill???????HELP!!!!!!!!
OK,Now I am confused!The
car is a '92 T/T. Does it have a fill to plug or
not?And if so is it the 14mm
head plug I found finger tight, that is on the
drivers side by the exhaust?It
has some kind of blockage so you can't stick
anything in past the threads,but
I guess fluid would pass.And if this is the
fill to plug ,I do need to fill
the case till oil comes out of it?
RICK
"Basol, John"
wrote:
> Ahhh
Yes,
> Curt just reminded
me of that very thing. My bad, I forgot that the
> 91-93 cases did
have the check plug. FWIW the 94+ cases do not. Sorry for
>
the confusion. :-)
>
> John Basol
> '95 RT/TT <--
Waiting on a new tranny.
:-(
>
>
-----Original
Message-----
>
From: Walton C. Gibson [SMTP:kalla@tripoint.org]
>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 4:30
PM
>
To: team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer case
Fill???????HELP!!!!!!!!
>
>
> Rick, there isn't a separate fill-to or check plug on the
transfer
> > case. The
fill plug itself is also the check. A paper-clip with
>
the
> > middle loop
bent perpendicular to the outer loop makes a nice tool
>
for
> > checking the
level through the plug (gotta' credit Curt Gendron
>
for
> > that little bit
of Mitsu
genius!).
>
> My
transfer case has a level check hole which is separate from
the
> fill and drain
plugs. The service manual makes a
distinction
> between
pre-93 cases and 93+ transfer cases. On mine the
check
> hole is on the
side, and the oil is supposed to reach right up to
>
the
> hole's opening. On
pre-93 transfer cases the fill plug (17mm
plug
> on the front)
doubles as the check plug. With that one
you're
> absolutely right
about using the paper
clip.
>
> > John
Basol
> > '95
RT/TT
>
> Does your
'95 transfer case not have a check hole on the
side?
>
> Walton C.
Gibson
> kalla@tripoint.org
>
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 13:12:28
-0700
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: APEXI boost controller setup problem???
- -----Original
Message-----
Hello all,
A similar problem for me.Just installed a
second hand Apexi avc type R,thats
the old one with from left to
right,volume,mode, the display,then power
button.Itwas installed exactly as
per Roger Gerl diagrams.
problem is it wont make boost,its easy to see
why,once wastegates have
opened and the bcs solenoid valve closes again there
is no way to let the
air out of the actuators to reclose the
wastegates.
does anybody know the correct way to install this
thing.
problem two-what is the green wire for,I only have the red & black
connected
to bat & earth.
thanks
Steve Cooper
Black
93 GTO TT
No cats
ARC 2
13Gs
550 injectors
Apexi AVC-R
15Gs on
their way
NOS about to be
fitted
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:24:03
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
What is this car? ES or R/T
Hi all
Take a look at this car
for sale on EBay.... I can't figure out which
model it really is!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=443704593
Any
thoughts?
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3Si
Rochester
(NY)
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:34:19
-0400
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
Well, judging from the
taillights, it started life as an RT, possibly turbo.
I don't believe the
"lightly damaged (BEFORE)" crap:
It has:
1. A salvage title -
implies major damage.
2. Obvious repainting (roof should be black).
Wheels, too.
3. Incorrect replacement ES model body work on the lower
half of the door.
4. A very anxious and picky seller. No backing
out? No warranty?
5. A curious former owner. An insurance company
generally doesn't own a car
unless it has been totalled.
6. 25 more
HP than my 91 RT/TT. Interesting!
Buddy, I wouldn't go near this
one at any price!
Roger Roskam
91 Stealth RT/TT
> Hi
all
>
> Take a look at this car for sale on EBay.... I can't figure
out which
> model it really is!
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=443704593
>
>
Any thoughts?
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 23:51:02
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Brad Bedell - you there?
Hello,
I'm looking for Brad Bedell..
anyone seen him?
I'm looking to do the infamous 5 to 6 speed conversion, and
I've heard
he's done it.
You still around my man?
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
Organizer - 3Si Rochester
(NY)
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:59:28
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
You forgot to add that it has
cloth seats. It's not a turbo...
Chris
92 TT
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <roger.roskam@home.com>
>
It has:
> 1. A salvage title - implies major damage.
>
2. Obvious repainting (roof should be black). Wheels, too.
>
3. Incorrect replacement ES model body work on the lower half of
the
door.
> 4. A very anxious and picky seller. No backing
out? No warranty?
> 5. A curious former owner. An insurance company
generally doesn't own a
car
> unless it has been totalled.
>
6. 25 more HP than my 91 RT/TT. Interesting!
>
> Buddy,
I wouldn't go near this one at any price!
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 23:51:34
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Manual Controller woes
> We could not make the Redline
manual boost
> controller work. My mechanic took it off the
> car
and set it up on a flow bench and ran
> compressed air through it at rates
0-15 psi.
> The valve has a spring-loaded ball that doesn't
> work
for diddley. We ran all sorts of pressure
> tests on it to simulate
increasing boost
> pressure, and it opened and closed and
chattered
> and oscillated all over the place. No wonder we
>
couldn't get it to work on the car. What a
> piece of junk.
It
actually should osciliate like that if you have it set up with just
pressure
going in one side. As pressure rises past your setting it will
open the
ball and as input pressure falls below the setting (since you are
bleeding
pressure past the ball) it will close the ball. If you are testing
it
by slowly incresing pressure until it hits the opening point of the
valve,
then that's the sort of behavior you'll see (which is actually the
same
behavior an electronic controller will exhibit as well).
I don't know
anyone with the Redline valve, but it sounds similar to the
Hallman-style
valve which actually does work very well.
> My wrench is now trying to
find a suitable
> manual valve -- perhaps one we could adjust from
>
inside the car. Any ideas? I know you guys buy
> aquarium valves, but I
was thinking more like an
> industrial manifold valve with an electric
actuator.
> Wouldn't it be nice to be able to adjust the boost
>
pressure with a knob or a 2- or 3-position switch?
The ball/spring ones
might be a bit noisy to have inside the car, and
running the hoses all the
way to a knob on the inside of the car is probably
going to slow the reaction
of the controller so that you'll get boost spikes
and possibly boost creep in
the higher gears. Bleeder-style valves are
going to be really noisy
inside the car as they'll leak pressure pretty much
all the time (and they
won't give you the best spoolup response). You
really want to keep the
hoses as short as possible to maximize the accuracy
of the boost
level.
If you aren't completely sold on the manual boost controller idea,
consider
one of the electronic controllers with an overtake boost
switch. My HKS EVC
IV has OTB on it. There's an optional switch
that you can mount somewhere
and then program the controller to raise the
boost by a specified amount for
a specified time interval and then it will
return to your "standard" setting
when the time has elapsed. It also
has a nice feature where you can set an
"alarm boost" level where if you
exceed that setting it will set the boost
back to something really low like
6-8 psi and start beeping to let you know
that something in the boost control
system or hoses is screwed up. It also
displays boost pressure on the
display during normal usage. Unfortunately,
the unit is too big to fit
in the center vent so you need to get creative
with the mounting if you want
to have it visible while driving.
I'm sure other controllers have similar
features available.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 23:56:14
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
> You forgot to add that
it has cloth seats. It's not a turbo...
But it has the button for
ECS and has automatic climate control. I'm
reasonably sure that you
could cheap out in '91 and get cloth on the Stealth
TT. Seems like it
is a TT that has seen some major damage as some body
parts are wrong and it
came from an insurance company.
I'd stay away from it as far as
possible...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 01:06:08
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
* First, check the VIN
through www.carfax.com <http://www.carfax.com>
and see what the
records are (i.e. salvage title, etc.)
* Wheels (if stock) dictate it is a
1991 R/T TT with 17" wheels
* Correct noting by Roger on bad paint job - even
the name "Dodge" on
the tail is white and is never the same color as the
body
* Wouldn't the TT have a sunroof even from 1991? Would this mean
it
started life as an R/T or perhaps the sunroof was damaged in an accident
and
the roof was repaired and painted?
* Note how the antenna mast does
not fully retract
* Didn't all TT and VR-4s have side "gills" on them and
this has none?
* Note at bottom of web page correctly notes that hp is 300
and not
325
* Can someone help tell me if the radio and single-play
in-dash CD
player is not stock? If the radio was replaced then the
steering wheel
buttons are useless
* I see the climate control which I
thought was only TT
* Early VR-4s had side markers between the front wheels
and the door
(like where the Audi has them now) but were these on the Stealth
line too?
* Just seems overall "shady" that the Kelly value is $10k and this
is
at $4k now
The ultimate answer: have them take a picture of the
engine bay. That is
the EASIEST way to tell if it is a mid-level or
Twin Turbo.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com
3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi
http://www.3kgt.com <http://www.3kgt.com> - "Car pictures"
then "Readers'
4" page
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger J.
Roskam [mailto:roger.roskam@home.com]
Sent:
Thursday, September 21, 2000 22:34
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: What is
this car? ES or R/T
Well, judging from the taillights, it started
life as an RT, possibly turbo.
I don't believe the "lightly damaged (BEFORE)"
crap:
It has:
1. A salvage title - implies major
damage.
2. Obvious repainting (roof should be black). Wheels,
too.
3. Incorrect replacement ES model body work on the lower half of
the door.
4. A very anxious and picky seller. No backing out? No
warranty?
5. A curious former owner. An insurance company generally
doesn't own a car
unless it has been totalled.
6. 25 more HP than my
91 RT/TT. Interesting!
Buddy, I wouldn't go near this one at any
price!
Roger Roskam
91 Stealth RT/TT
> Hi
all
>
> Take a look at this car for sale on EBay.... I can't figure
out which
> model it really is!
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=443704593
>
>
Any thoughts?
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 23:37:15
-0600
From: "Manoj Prasad-Uswest" <mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
If I recall correctly, in 91
leather was an option. It looks like the back
side window does say twin
turbo.
I would still stay away from this one. When someone says the car
is in
running condtion, that tells me there is some problem with the
engine.
Rgds
Moe
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Chris Maxwell
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 10:59 PM
To: team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
You forgot to add that it has
cloth seats. It's not a turbo...
Chris
92 TT
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <roger.roskam@home.com>
>
It has:
> 1. A salvage title - implies major damage.
>
2. Obvious repainting (roof should be black). Wheels, too.
>
3. Incorrect replacement ES model body work on the lower half of
the
door.
> 4. A very anxious and picky seller. No backing
out? No warranty?
> 5. A curious former owner. An insurance company
generally doesn't own a
car
> unless it has been totalled.
>
6. 25 more HP than my 91 RT/TT. Interesting!
>
> Buddy,
I wouldn't go near this one at any price!
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 00:52:19
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is this car? ES or R/T
> * Wouldn't the TT have
a sunroof even from
> 1991? Would this mean it started
life as
> an R/T or perhaps the sunroof was
damaged
> in an accident and the roof was
repaired
> and painted?
Nope, sunroof was optional on
both Stealth TT and VR4 from '91 to '97. They
only became standard on
SL's and VR4's in 1998 and 1999.
> * Didn't all TT and VR-4s have side
"gills"
> on them and this has none?
Yup, part of the
screwy doors and rear quarter panel. Those appear to be
base Stealth
parts, as the base model didn't have the side pseudo-ducts.
Derek Hayes'
base '93 Stealth:
http://www.mn3s.org/members/derek1.jpg
>
* Can someone help tell me if the radio and
> single-play
in-dash CD player is not stock?
> If the radio was replaced
then the steering
> wheel buttons are useless.
That's
the same radio/CD that my friend's '91 VR4 had when stock. The
buttons
on the steering wheel worked fine.
> * Early VR-4s had side markers
between the
> front wheels and the door (like where
the
> Audi has them now) but were these on
the
> Stealth line too?
I think you are thinking of a
different car... ;-) There are no
side-marker lights other than
the ones in the turn signals, at least in the
US market.
Mark
Wendlandt's '91 RT/TT:
http://www.mn3s.org/members/mark1.jpg
Kyle
Goeman's '91 VR4:
http://www.mn3s.org/members/kyle4.jpg
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#272
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