team3s
Monday, September 18
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
269
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Sep 2000 23:45:32 EDT
From: Playenfun@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: My car
is sick again :-(, clutch problem.
HI everyone, i
totally lost clutch pressure. I checked the clutch fluid
and it was
empty. I put more fluid in and it just kept leaking. It is
leaking from a rubber part that is almost under the battery. Does
anyone
know what that part is, i kept thinking that it was the master
cylinder, but
i don't know what a master cylinder looks like. If anyone
knows what that
rubber part is called please let me know. Thanks in
advance.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 00:25:17
EDT
From: Playenfun@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Update
on clutch problem.
Hi everyone, it seems like the clutch release cylinder
is broken, has anyone
had this problem before? IF so, how hard is it
to replace it? Thanx in
again. Chris.
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 00:38:19
-0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Complete Removal of ABSand other Electrical things...
Well, as I am in
the middle of a major project with my car, I figure - why
not make it more
major.
Reasoning:
1. I dislike ABS
2.
Weight
3. Why the hell not - my car is in a thousand pieces as it
is
What would it take to completely and utterly remove all ABS
related stuff on
my car?
I know there is the ABS computer, the ABS
pump, and a few g-sensors. Can i
just unplug the computer and sensors,
and still have normal brake function -
it would be scary to think if one
failed, my brakes might be compromised, so
I assume this would be
OK...
The ABS pump / regulator / whatever
I realize there are brake
lines into and out of this thing - is it's only
purpose ABS control, or does
it also do the proportioning? What would it
take to remove it?
Where could I get custom brake lines with the fittings?
While I'm at it
-
SRS - I can easily remove the bag from the steering wheel, and then the
SRS
computer - What other sensors are there for it? I believe there are
sensors
in the front, and when I look for them, i's hard to determine what is
the
actual sensor - is it built into the supprt for the front
bumper?
ECS - I want my struts to be on the hard setting all the time
- does anyone
know how they accomplish this. I could tap into the
harnesses and add +12v
or whatever it takes to keep them in hard mode.
Then I could remove my ECS
computer and any other g-sensors included with it
is this possible?
If you haven't guessed - I believe our cars may be just
a little too
refined, and the US gov't a little too strict about the safety
stuff that is
REQUIRED for a car to be sold by a company. These are all
things I want to
live without just because I don't ned them. Sure the
SRS is nice, and it
will be the last to go, but the only thing I'm waiting
for on it is a new
steering wheel. And as far as the ECS - I personally
hate how it
automatically changes to tour whenever you restart the
car
- -Cody
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:50:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Complete Removal of ABSand other Electrical things...
>
Reasoning:
> 1. I dislike ABS
- ---
So do I, learn threshold
braking..ABS -can- be a good thing at just the
right time in a race..have
eeked out and held 1st place because 2wd cars
put me in bad positions..where
the AWD + ABS allowed be to pull amazing
saves.
> I know there is
the ABS computer, the ABS pump, and a few g-sensors. Can i
> just
unplug the computer and sensors, and still have normal brake function -
>
it would be scary to think if one failed, my brakes might be compromised,
so
> I assume this would be OK...
- ---
Itd all work just
fine..just have a ABS light on.
> The ABS pump / regulator /
whatever
> I realize there are brake lines into and out of this thing - is
it's only
> purpose ABS control, or does it also do the
proportioning? What would it
> take to remove it? Where could
I get custom brake lines with the fittings?
- ---
Ya make em the old
fashioned way..by hand.
Im relocating the ABS unit to where the battery
sat, and running an air
intake where the battery was with hood venting to get
fresh air there.
Moving battery to where the pass. back seat ass-cusion
was.
> SRS - I can easily remove the bag from the steering wheel, and
then the SRS
> computer - What other sensors are there for it? I
believe there are sensors
> in the front, and when I look for them, i's
hard to determine what is the
> actual sensor - is it built into the
supprt for the front bumper?
- ---
Yep, comes right out.
Computer is easy as well under the console. Get a
manual (CD or
otherwise) points out the exact location of all sensors,
relays,
switches..etc). I dunno where they are..but if I load the
CD
someday....
> ECS - I want my struts to be on the hard
setting all the time - does anyone
> know how they accomplish this.
I could tap into the harnesses and add +12v
> or whatever it takes to keep
them in hard mode. Then I could remove my ECS
> computer and any
other g-sensors included with it is this possible?
- ---
You dont (I
belive) run hot 12v to them, you just cycle power to the right
wire(s) and
the ECS just shifts the solenoid position in the strut cover.
So lock em
hard, and remove the little motors.
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 10:46:22
-0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Passing emissions
It's time to pass emissions. My pre-cats
are gutted, so I'll just be
putting the main cat back on. I understand
that if you add alcohol to the
fuel, that it will cause it to burn hotter and
therefor better emissions.
1. What kind of alcohol and where can I
find it?
2. How much?
3. What other effects will it
have?
4. Should I turn down the boost while using the
alcohol?
5. Should I even bother with it?
It's going to be GA
emissions.
Michael
98 VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:05:07
-0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jeffrey@omega-sw.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Passing emissions
Michael;
Precats are not necessary for
emissions test if you make sure that the car
is warmed up...The precats are
only needed to control emissions during the
time before the main cat heats up
and is operational. I have passed all of
CO's emissions tests with
gutted precats without adding anything to the fuel
system. If you have
larger injectors, you need to put the 360's back
on...if you have a
VPC....set everything to the 12:00 position (and replace
the 360 chip is the
larger injector chip has been installed)....you should
then pass without any
troubles.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Dorsey
To: 'Team3S'
Sent:
Monday, September 18, 2000 8:46 AM
Subject: Team3S: Passing
emissions
It's time to pass emissions. My pre-cats are gutted,
so I'll just be
putting the main cat back on. I understand that if you
add alcohol to the
fuel, that it will cause it to burn hotter and therefor
better emissions.
1. What kind of alcohol and where can I find
it?
2. How much?
3. What other effects will it
have?
4. Should I turn down the boost while using the
alcohol?
5. Should I even bother with it?
It's going to be GA
emissions.
Michael
98 VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:25:09
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Update on clutch problem.
Not hard to replace at all.
Check out Jeff Lucius' website
www.stealth316.com in the garage
section. We covered the removal in our
Clutch Replacement
instructions.
Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <Playenfun@aol.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, September 17, 2000 10:25 PM
Subject: Team3S: Update on clutch
problem.
> Hi everyone, it seems like the clutch release cylinder
is broken, has
anyone
> had this problem before? IF so, how hard
is it to replace it? Thanx in
> again. Chris.
>
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:05:35
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: My car is sick again :-(, clutch
problem.
> HI everyone, i totally lost clutch
pressure. I checked the clutch fluid
> and it was empty. I put
more fluid in and it just kept leaking. It is
> leaking from a
rubber part that is almost under the battery. Does anyone
> know
what that part is, i kept thinking that it was the master cylinder, but
>
i don't know what a master cylinder looks like. If anyone knows what
that
> rubber part is called please let me know. Thanks in
advance.
It is most likely the seal in the slave cylinder and you saw it
leaking out the
protective accordian boot. I replaced my clutch slave
cylinder last year and my
seal only lasted one year. You can buy a
slave cylinder rebuild kit for $7 or
so from one of the list's discount
dealers. It is very easy to replace. A new
slave cylinder is
about $40.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize
using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 16:38:17
-0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: under/over steer
Just another fyi on the subject....when you
hear a race driver talking about
a car being "tight"...this is referring to
understeer.
Conversely, a "loose" car is one that is
oversteering.
It seems that when testing a car, the drivers typically
begin with a bit of
understeer (more safe) and adjust from there to more
neutral handling
characteristics. (Don't want to go backwards into the
wall on your first
lap!) Some drivers (Yasuna, Merritt, Jack T
and others will know more
about this) may end up with some oversteer to be
able to bring the tail
around the turn more quickly using the
throttle.
Maybe some of you road racer guys can further enlighten us
novices on
advantages vs. disadvantages of tight / loose set-ups.
Mark
'96 VR-4
'96 YZF 600R
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael
Dorsey [mailto:mdorsey@mindspring.com]
Sent:
Monday, September 18, 2000 15:31
To: stealth@stls.verio.net
Subject: RE:
under/over steer
Oversteer - The rear of the car slides out, so the
car steers in over the
amount you wanted. This is easily created by
pulling your e-brake in a
sharp turn.
Understeer - The front wheels
slide, so the car steers under the amount you
want to. In most FWD cars
or our AWD, floor it through a sharp turn and it
should
understeer.
None of these examples are definate, as suspension,
front/rear weight ratio
and other factors come into play.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark William Hindelang [mailto:hindelan@pilot.msu.edu]
Sent:
Monday, September 18, 2000 15:13
To: stealth@stls.verio.net
Subject:
under/over steer
could someone define both of them officially for
me.
appreciate it.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 16:43:43
-0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: under/over steer
>It seems that when testing a car,
the drivers typically begin with a bit of
>understeer (more safe) and
adjust from there to more neutral handling
>characteristics. (Don't
want to go backwards into the wall on your first
>lap!) Some drivers
(Yasuna, Merritt, Jack T and others will know more
>about this) may
end up with some oversteer to be able to bring the tail
>around the turn
more quickly using the throttle.
I don't know about other VR4 drivers,
but I have never been able to get the
tail around. A properly handling VR4
does not "rotate" like RWD cars.
Instead, when you really drive it hard and
hammer on the throttle before an
apex, the outside front wheel claws for
traction and pulls you around. On
any track with predominantly right or
left-hand turns, you have to keep
moving that outside front to other
locations on the car, or you'll chew it
up. Novices won't have this problem
at first, because you won't be prepared
to put power on before the apex, and
your instructor won't tell you to
drive that way. (Nobody will except another
VR 4 driver).
A stock VR4 behaves much like a FWD car, in that it
understeers.
I installed higher rate Eibach springs from Ground Control to
make it stop
understeering, and they work quite well. The car no longer
understeers
(pushes) unless it is being driven very, very hard and then it
goes back to
understeering and chewing up front tires. Most of the time the
car is neutral.
It is possible to adjust in some positive rear toe to get
oversteer, and
several autocrossers do that. Problem is, positive rear toe
makes the car
squirrely under hard braking, and it tends to swap ends at 100+
mph. It's
better to leave the toe alone unless you know what you are
doing.
My recommendations to neophyte racers with stock VR4s:
1.
Pump the tires to 44/38 to keep the fronts from rolling under. Chalk
or
shoe-polish the tire to be sure it's cornering flat.
2. Adjust in as
much negative camber as your alignment shop can get from
the stock
suspension.
Go run a couple of events and make sure you like the sport.
If so:
3. When you can afford it, buy a set of sticky race tires (4 @
$200) and a
set of spare wheels (4 @ $100-$300). Yoko 032R is a good
school tire, cuz
it wears well. (I have a spare set of wheels with Yoko 032
tires mounted if
anyone's interested).
4. Next, install a set of
Ground Control springs front and rear with
camber plates.
Then there's
the brakes, but that's another story. Suffice it to say that
brakes are the
weakest part of our car, but they can be fixed. You can get
by with race pads
and ducting for a few events if you don't mind changing
pads trackside. It'll
cost about $1500 to do it right.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
Big Red Porsche
brakes/SS lines/Pagid black pads/Ground Control adjustable
suspension w
Eibach springs & camber plates/Kumho tires/stock motor
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 14:35:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: under/over steer
I might add, that the VR4 just doesnt
have the torque bias anywhere neat
what would be required to drift the rear
out..and actually hold it with
any amount of control.
On Mon, 18 Sep
2000, Merritt wrote:
> >It seems that when testing a car, the
drivers typically begin with a bit of
> >understeer (more safe) and
adjust from there to more neutral handling
> >characteristics.
(Don't want to go backwards into the wall on your first
> >lap!)
Some drivers (Yasuna, Merritt, Jack T and others will know more
>
>about this) may end up with some oversteer to be able to bring the
tail
> >around the turn more quickly using the throttle.
>
> I don't know about other VR4 drivers, but I have never been able to get
the
> tail around. A properly handling VR4 does not "rotate" like RWD
cars.
> Instead, when you really drive it hard and hammer on the throttle
before an
> apex, the outside front wheel claws for traction and pulls you
around. On
> any track with predominantly right or left-hand turns, you
have to keep
> moving that outside front to other locations on the car, or
you'll chew it
> up. Novices won't have this problem at first, because you
won't be prepared
> to put power on before the apex, and your instructor
won't tell you to
> drive that way. (Nobody will except another VR 4
driver).
>
> A stock VR4 behaves much like a FWD car, in that it
understeers.
> I installed higher rate Eibach springs from Ground Control
to make it stop
> understeering, and they work quite well. The car no
longer understeers
> (pushes) unless it is being driven very, very hard
and then it goes back to
> understeering and chewing up front tires. Most
of the time the car is neutral.
>
> It is possible to adjust in
some positive rear toe to get oversteer, and
> several autocrossers do
that. Problem is, positive rear toe makes the car
> squirrely under hard
braking, and it tends to swap ends at 100+ mph. It's
> better to leave the
toe alone unless you know what you are doing.
>
> My
recommendations to neophyte racers with stock VR4s:
>
> 1. Pump the
tires to 44/38 to keep the fronts from rolling under. Chalk or
>
shoe-polish the tire to be sure it's cornering flat.
> 2. Adjust in as
much negative camber as your alignment shop can get from
> the stock
suspension.
>
> Go run a couple of events and make sure you like
the sport. If so:
>
> 3. When you can afford it, buy a set of
sticky race tires (4 @ $200) and a
> set of spare wheels (4 @
$100-$300). Yoko 032R is a good school tire, cuz
> it wears well. (I
have a spare set of wheels with Yoko 032 tires mounted if
> anyone's
interested).
> 4. Next, install a set of Ground Control springs
front and rear with
> camber plates.
>
> Then there's the
brakes, but that's another story. Suffice it to say that
> brakes are the
weakest part of our car, but they can be fixed. You can get
> by with race
pads and ducting for a few events if you don't mind changing
> pads
trackside. It'll cost about $1500 to do it right.
>
> Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
> Big Red Porsche brakes/SS lines/Pagid black pads/Ground
Control adjustable
> suspension w Eibach springs & camber plates/Kumho
tires/stock motor
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 23:02:08
EDT
From: The68th@aol.com
Subject:
Team3S: AWS Info
Can someone please direct me to some information of all
wheel steering? I
need some info on it for a class. Thanks
guys.
Chris
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 20:48:33
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE: under/over steer
Almost without fail, a loose car is a fast
car. It is also very, very
difficult to drive without losing it.
When set up very loose f'rinstance, a
roundy-round car will almost float
around corners. I have done this on
asphalt before and it was
freakishly skittish. Dirt is a similar deal.
Same goes for
two-wheelers. I used to set up my GP bikes differently
depending upon
track and conditions (and mood too...), but when it came down
to all the
marbles sort of races, I almost always opted for loose. Loose is
fast
but requires (at least did for me) hyper-concentration and absolute
precision
with little or no margin for error. Neutral is preferred IMO
for
all-around drivability and forgiveness (fewer gray hairs at the end of
the
day), but for all out speed in the right hands loose is hard to
beat.
With the second last round of mods my '94 VR4 could be made
tail-happy with
power-induced excessive wheel-spin in the lower gears.
This mode of driving
probably cost me a tranny and driveshaft and definitely
isn't easy on the
grips, but sure made for some
giggles.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Just another fyi on the subject....when you hear a
race driver
> talking about
> a car being "tight"...this is
referring to understeer.
>
> Conversely, a "loose" car is one that
is oversteering.
>
> It seems that when testing a car, the drivers
typically begin
> with a bit of
> understeer (more safe) and adjust
from there to more neutral handling
> characteristics. (Don't want
to go backwards into the wall on your first
> lap!) Some drivers
(Yasuna, Merritt, Jack T and others will know more
> about this) may
end up with some oversteer to be able to bring the tail
> around the turn
more quickly using the throttle.
>
> Maybe some of you road racer
guys can further enlighten us novices on
> advantages vs. disadvantages of
tight / loose set-ups.
>
> Mark '96 VR-4
> '96 YZF
600R
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#269
*********************