team3s
Sunday, September 17
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
268
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 16 Sep 2000 10:52:05 EDT
From: DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.com
Subject: Team3S: VR-4
for sale
It's a 1992 Red 3000GT VR-4 with 78,000 miles on it. 2 months
ago I got a
APEXI-avcr installed and a k&N Fipk. In the last 7 months I
have only put
1200 miles on it. It has never seen snow. It has a brand new
transmission and
transfer case. Also a brand new ABS system install by
dealer 3 months ago
which cost 2400.00 also had its 60,000 mile service +
new timing belt. this
car is extra clean. Leather interior, digital climate
control, CD/cass
player, active areo, pw,pl,ps,
alarm.
Alex
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 10:59:05
-0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock Air Box Removal (was: FIPK ?)
The plastic
retainers that are molded into the air box for the bolts
were never intended
to hold the thin bolt heads for removal. I packed
baking soda around the
heads and then added super glue. This basically
made a solid fill around the
bolt head and was able to keep them held
while you loosen the nuts. This is
also helpful where something breaks
and you need to form a filet or gusset to
repair it.
Ron
sjc0u812@juno.com wrote:
>
>
Darren, Bart et al:
>
> As with anything, you will have much better
luck if you plan ahead. A
> couple days before you're going to
remove the air box, hit those bolts
> with some Liquid Wrench. Again
the day before. Then take your time
> trying to break them free on
the day of removal. I can't guarantee this
> will work, but it has
for me.
>
> Best,
>
> Scott
>
> >
Remember that step 10 (removing the bolts from the stock air filter
> >
box)
> > takes about two hours with a Dremmel tool instead of two
minutes.
>
> <snip>
>
________________________________________________________________
> YOU'RE
PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
> Juno now offers FREE Internet
Access!
> Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software,
visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 15:25:37
-0700
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S:
differential 1st or 2nd gen??
Ken, Darren thank you for your response.
"Unfortunately" my car is running
with 6 gear trany. (I bout it like this)
but I had no clue that the 6 gear
trany is going with a different
differential! IS THAT CONFIRMED? If so, then
we all 3 are looking for 2nd gen
differential. I thing then we have to look
to a Junkers. Any idea for
someone within the net?
Nikolaos M. Sgouros
Poseidon "X"
Inc
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 22:58:25
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Off Topic But it made me smile.
Sound familiar to anyone here
?
Oil Changing Instructions
Women:
1. Pull up to Jiffy
Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 since the last oil
change.
2.
Drink a cup of coffee.
3. 15 minutes later, write a check and leave
with a properly maintained
vehicle.
-
------------------------------------------
Men:
1. Go to
O'Reilly auto parts and write a check for 50 dollars for oil,
filter, oil
lift (AKA kitty litter), hand cleaner and scented tree.
2. Discover
that the used oil container is full. Instead of taking back to
O'Reilly to
recycle, dump in hole in back yard.
3. Open a beer and drink
it.
4. Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack
stands.
5. Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6. In
frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7. Place drain pan under
engine.
8. Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9. Give up and use
crescent wrench.
10. Unscrew drain plug.
11. Drop drain plug in pan of hot
oil; get hot oil on you in process.
12. Clean up.
13. Have another beer
while oil is draining.
14. Look for oil filter wrench.
15. Give up; poke
oil filter with Phillips screwdriver and twist it off.
16.
Beer.
17. Buddy shows up; finish case with him. Finish oil change
tomorrow.
18. Next day, drag pan full of old oil out from underneath
car.
19. Throw oil lift (AKA kitty litter) on oil spilled during step
18.
20. Beer. No, drank it all yesterday.
21. Walk to 7-11;
buy beer.
22. Install new oil filter making sure to apply thin coat of
clean oil to
gasket first.
23. Dump first quart of fresh oil into
engine.
24. Remember drain plug from step 11.
25. Hurry to
find drain plug in drain pan.
26. Hurry to replace drain plug before
the whole quart of fresh oil drains
onto floor.
27. Slip with wrench
and bang knuckles on frame.
28. Bang head on floor board in
reaction.
29. Begin cussing fit.
30. Throw
wrench.
31. Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss
December(1992)
in the left boob.
32. Clean up; apply Band-Aid to
knuckle.
33. Beer.
34. Beer.
35. Dump in additional 4
quarts of oil.
36. Beer.
37. Lower car from jack
stands
38. Accidentally crush one of the jack stands
39. Move
car back to apply more oil lift (AKA kitty litter) to fresh oil
spilled
during step 23.
40. Drive car
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 17:17:00
-0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Off Topic But it made me smile.
>1. Pull up to Jiffy
Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 since the last
oil
>change.
>2. Drink a cup of coffee.
>3. 15
minutes later, write a check and leave with a properly
maintained
>vehicle.
>
The stories I've heard about Jiffy Lube
would curl your hair. I wouldn't
let them anywhere near any car I own.
I get my oil changed at the dealer because (a) two cars are under
warranty
(b) it doesn't cost all that much more to have them do it and (c) I
can
drink coffee, watch TV and eat a doughnut whilst they do it. At one
dealer,
I can take my laptop, plug into the Internet and do some work. I
haven't
changed my own oil in YEARS! I do have to buy the Mobil 1
myself and take
it to the Mitsu dealer, though.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
and 95 Aurora
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 16:36:36
-0600
From: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Deferential needed!
I have several places listed on the
Garage and Links pages of my web
site that will repair your diff, supply
parts, or supply a rebuilt/new
diff. Kormex would be a good place to
start.
Jeff Lucius
---> http://www.stealth316.com
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <atenag@coqui.net>
To: "Team3s" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 14, 2000 2:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: Deferential
needed!
> Dear friends I need a used deferential for my 91
stealth RT TT. If
someone
> knows a source please e mail me directly at
atenag@coqui.net
>
>
Appreciative
>
> Nikos the Greek
> 92' RT TT
> Puerto
Rico
>
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 08:40:40
EDT
From: DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.com
Subject: Team3S:
RE:VR-4 For Sale
The reason that I am selling this car is because I want
to buy a 3000GT VR-4
SPIDER. My VR-4 that im selling is in Excellent
condition, And would like to
see $13,000 for my
baby.
Alex
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 16:15:48
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: PCV Catch Can et al
> It's been a very exciting summer for
me, spending way-hey too much money
> on the car, but I feel I've also
made serious progress getting it NEAR
> it's true potential. Gotta
love these cars.
You speak about the hole in the pocket right
??
> Here's my questions:
>
> 1.) Why a closed one?
I thought part of this idea was to get the oil
> vapor out of the intake
also, no?
The little but existing vacuum helps the crankcase ventilation
system. When
having a catch-can with a breather, the system is not closed
anymore and the
some air is sucked in from the vapor line. This should be
prevented o nour
engine although it is not really critical. A breather is
simply said
unecessary. If there is high pressure in the crankcase and oil is
pushed
through the catch can catches it pretty good. A breather would
become
clogged up pretty quick and then releases oiled air to the intake. The
same
with a filter inline. A simple catch can is the best
solution.
> 2.) Yes, the unit is plastic, and way too big. I
plan to actually modify
> the unit by cutting out and removing 2/3 of the
huge bottle. But, seeing
> as how half of the components under the
hood are plastic
This is true but the catch can is made for water. Summit
or Jegs do have the
same tanks and in their catalogs several different ones
can be found. The
cheap one with the preather on top is too soft plastic for
my feeling and
yes, it's too big. There is a much smaller aluminum one
available but it's
price is way too high. I got mine from a carting shop as
the 2-stroke
engines have to use a catch can for the oil. It's chrome steel
and has four
nipples. It can be cut by half the sizte as this should be
enough for us.
> 3.) Won't the pressure inside the crankcase also push
open the PCV valve?
> If I understand the workings, the pressure
from the intake can pull open
> the PCV valve. But, it also appears,
as with your fill tube problem, it
> can work the other way?
The
valve only prevents that any air can go back into the system from the
in
take. The little vaccum infront the PCV valve only supports the
opening,
nothing else.
Good luck and do any pics if you install the
stuff :>)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 15:49:22
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MoTec M48
yea-or-nay
eMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.com
Fax/Voice
Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133
6126
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162
5179
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062
8924
ICQ#:
1741675
Has anyone ever had experience with the MoTec M48 ECU. It looks
very
comprehensive and featured. They say they can supply it for the 3KGT
TT
(VR4) no problem. I have PDF's of the docs if anyone is
interested.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 10:50:57
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: PCV Catch Can et al
This has recently been discussed in
detail on the 3SI discussion board:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=10672
A
review of this thread should be helpful, more discussion below.
>
> 1.) Why a closed one? I thought part of this idea was to get the
oil
> > vapor out of the intake also, no?
>
> The little
but existing vacuum helps the crankcase ventilation system. When
> having
a catch-can with a breather, the system is not closed anymore and the
>
some air is sucked in from the vapor line. This should be prevented o
nour
> engine although it is not really critical. A breather is simply
said
> unecessary. If there is high pressure in the crankcase and oil is
pushed
> through the catch can catches it pretty good. A breather would
become
> clogged up pretty quick and then releases oiled air to the
intake. The same
> with a filter inline. A simple catch can is the best
solution.
If you use only a catch can on the breather line and don't add
a filter element,
you will draw unfiltered air and dirt into the crankcase
during normal PCV
operation. A good catch can should collect most of
the oil during pushover and
leave the filter relatively clean. I would
not recommend leaving the breather
line unfiltered.
A catch can can
also be used on the PCV line. Here, you are attempting to
reduce the
amount of oil entering the intake manifold and combustion chamber but
most
try to place a catch can on the breather line (to reduce or eliminate
oil
entering the entire intake tract including our intercoolers resulting
in
decreased efficiency).
> > 2.) Yes, the unit is plastic, and
way too big. I plan to actually modify
> > the unit by cutting
out and removing 2/3 of the huge bottle. But, seeing
> > as how
half of the components under the hood are plastic
>
> This is true
but the catch can is made for water. Summit or Jegs do have the
> same
tanks and in their catalogs several different ones can be found. The
>
cheap one with the preather on top is too soft plastic for my feeling
and
> yes, it's too big. There is a much smaller aluminum one available
but it's
> price is way too high. I got mine from a carting shop as the
2-stroke
> engines have to use a catch can for the oil. It's chrome steel
and has four
> nipples. It can be cut by half the sizte as this should be
enough for us.
A plastic catch can is not a good idea unless it can stand
up to hot nasty oil
(nasty since it is slightly acidic with combustion by
products). Oil can reach
temps of 300F while coolant 240F. I'd go
with an aluminum catch can. The
larger the volume, the more effective
it will be in separating oil from the air
flow. But you get diminishing
returns as you go larger, in other words,
doubling volume from one pint to a
quart will not make the system twice as
effective. You may go from 75%
to 90% efficient (these are guesses). Because
your catch can will not
be 100% effective in separating oil from the air stream,
you will want to
purchase a suitably large filter element that won't get clogged
right away
and realize you may need to periodically clean or replace it.
But
again, I wouldn't recommend eliminating the filter.
Joe
Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/homepage.htm
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 10:55:01
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MoTec M48 yea-or-nay
If you have the experience, time, and
will..its a BIG yea.
Without sufficient quantities of all of the above
(and then some), nay.
On Sun, 17 Sep 2000, George Shaw wrote:
>
>
>
eMail:
george.shaw@btinternet.com
>
Fax/Voice Mail: +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
>
Mobile:
+44 (0) 78 1162 5179
>
Home:
+44 (0) 28 9062 8924
>
ICQ#:
1741675
>
> Has anyone ever had experience with the MoTec M48 ECU.
It looks very
> comprehensive and featured. They say they can supply it
for the 3KGT TT
> (VR4) no problem. I have PDF's of the docs if anyone is
interested.
>
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#268
*********************