team3s
Wednesday, September 13
2000 Volume 01 : Number
265
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 12 Sep 2000 21:29:29 -0600
From: "Manoj Prasad-Uswest" <mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: BESY USED CAR WARRANY?
Warrantygold will NOT cover the
VR4/TT.
Rgds
Moe
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Michael S.
Steinebach
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 8:08
PM
To: Petrosvr4@aol.com; marcsaugelli@hotmail.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BESY USED CAR WARRANY?
What about the turbo
-
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Petrosvr4@aol.com
Sent:
Tuesday, September 12, 2000 8:19 PM
To: marcsaugelli@hotmail.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BESY USED CAR WARRANY?
Warrantygold offers for the
non-turbo 3000gt 5/150k
Give them a call
800-580-9889
petros
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 20:37:29
-0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine stalling
Sounds to me like the mechanic knocked the
transmission into the fuel pump
relay while the R & R went
down..........the internals of the relay have
probably been
compromised.......
You may want to mention that to
them......
Wayne
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 00:44:45
EDT
From: Playenfun@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
UPDATE:"MY CAR WON"T START :-)"
Hi everyone, if you
guys remember i posted a message about my car not
starting after i had taken
the stereo out. It turns out that there is an
E.C.M fuse in the center
console above the stereo. I found this out after
100 dollars worth of
towing and 50 dollars for a mechanic to pop a fuse back
in.
Anyways, i thought i let you guys know, just in case it happens to
anyone.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 01:47:09
-0700
From: "Sue Smith" <saintsue@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Update: Was Need Help
How lean were you running it?
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Browne, Troy E <troy.e.browne@intel.com>
To:
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 12, 2000 3:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: Update: Was Need
Help
> Hey There everyone,
>
> Just thought I'd update
you on my Spyder.
> Well, three of the pistons cracked due to the lean
condition induced by
> yours truly,
> thus explaining the zero
compression on the #1,4,6 cylinders. Good news
was
> that
only
> two valves were bent and the head is rebuildable.
>
>
Soooo, to take a cue from others on the list who have
upgraded....
>
> I have ordered: Ross GTPRO pistons at 80 over,
total seal rings, Pauter
> rods, clevite bearings,
> new oil pump,
water pump, timing belt, tensioner, and I'm having the
>
heads/intake/plenum ported
> and polished.
>
> Still don't
know if the new 15G turbos are toast as they are just getting
> the engine
out now.
> Lots of piston debris in every clyinder from pieces getting
shoved back
into
> the intake and
> distributed to all the ones
which didn't break. Joy
>
> All total somewhere around 10k to
rebuild, ouch...
>
> Moral of this story... Do NOT run your
car lean under high boost,
> (1.15bar). It WILL die!!
After
> I had leaned it out it burned up in less than 2 hours run
time. I stll
need
> to take some
> pict's for my new wall
of shame.
>
> I know this is off topic but so many people responded
to my previous posts
> that I thought
> you deserved to
know.
>
> Thanks again for all the suggestions
> Troy
>
96 3000GT VR4 Spyder
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 06:02:18
-0400 (EDT)
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Draining Radiator Fluid
how do u reach the drain plug? does the
undercarriage/active aero piece need to come off? is this
difficult?
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 13:21:54
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Draining Radiator Fluid
>how do u reach the drain
plug? does the undercarriage/active aero piece
>need to come
off? is this difficult?
Just remove the plate on the active aero
front wing under the drivers side
and then you can reach the wing-bolt with
your hands. Of course it will be
seized and you need some power in your
hands ! The job is very easy when
the bolt is open
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:44:52
EDT
From: Playenfun@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: RADIO
??
Hello, does anybody know if a bad connection to a speaker would cause
the rest of the speakers to go out? I had one of the back speakers going
on and off, as if it was blown, now all the speakers won't work. Thanx in
advance.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 09:32:19
-0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RADIO ??
The connectors on the back of the
radios in early 90's 3000's were flaky. You can pull the female contacts
out one at a time from the molex casing (there is a tiny metal tab which must be
pushed, this is visible through a
small window in the plastic) and bend the
part that applies pressure on the male contact (the ones in the radio).
Also, use an x-acto knife to scrape away the oxidation on the contacts.
This should help.
I did this once to fix speakers cut-out,
and an antenna that went up and down with every bump in the road.
Playenfun@aol.com wrote:
> Hello,
does anybody know if a bad connection to a speaker would cause the rest of the
speakers to go out? I had one of the back speakers going on and off, as if
it was blown, now all the speakers won't work. Thanx in advance.
>
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 09:53:30
-0700
From: Leonard Dy <LDy@acssys.com>
Subject: Team3S: stereo
question
A few days ago it rained hard enough to flood the parking lot
where my car
was parked. Water was able to get in enough to wet the
carpets and
unfortunately the amp. I dried everything out and now only
get sound from
the rear right speaker. Should I consider the amplifier
dead and consider
it time to get a new one.
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 12:15:11
-0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Calling all engine gurus.
Ok guys,
Some
of you may recognize me but most probably not. After a LONG
absence
from working on my car, I've finally jumped back into it and
have some
"dead-horse" questions for the engine experts out
there.
First: During disassembly of the motor I
found shards of metal in
the oil pan which eventually were found to be from
the bearings on the
crank. At least two of the bearings had spun.
I know that the journals
on the crank are glazed with a hardened material,
but how can I
determine if this coating was damaged to the point which
I need to
replace it?
Second, IF the crank is bad, and IF I'm not
really interested in doing
any major mods at this time, would it make more
sense, financially and
from a performance standpoint to ditch all efforts to
rebuild what I
have(1rst gen 2 bolt main block) and get a new or
rebuilt
shortblock(possibly a 4 bolt main) from some other
source?
LAST! I've been hearing about the 4 bolt main shortblock
for years now,
and I'm strongly considering going with that option. If
I do, what sort
of "compatability" problems may I encounter? In other
words, is it a
direct, bolt to bolt replacement, or would modifacations have
to be made
in order to use my existing components?
Since I'm sure
these topics have been explored ad-nauseum, please try to
respond to me
personally, I hate to weigh the list down with reposts and
old
information.
Thanks
- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91
Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:43:30
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Calling all engine gurus.
Hi Jeff,
Below is some info
concerning the 4-bolt conversion. I didn't think
1991-1992 cast-iron cranks
had any surface-hardening treatment so you
should be able to mill the
journals. Please check out the Garage and
Links pages at my web site for
sources of new and used components.
Engine remans are under "Specialty
Products" on the Links page.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
--> http://www.stealth316.com/
From the
<May 9. 2000 3SI message board and Joe Gonsowski's
4-bolt
conversion:
Congrats on the new short block. Here is a list of
items I purchased
during the transition from my two bolt to the four bolt
(from most to
least expensive):
gaskets - engine rebuild
(MD997670)$281.43
oil pump / front crank seal & case (MD175583)
$131.72
timing belt (MD319040) $115.71
oil pan (MD199562) $105.79
water
pump (MD972005) $78.04
timing belt tensioner (MD319040) $62.23
head bolt
(MD174793) $60.84 (qty of 20)
rear crank seal & case (MD178606)
$31.74
thermostat (MD174234) $16.83
oil feed tube - rear turbo (MD174793)
$12.82
oil feed tube - front turbo (MD161898) $10.62
crank pulley bolt
(MD151793) $7.24
crank pulley bolt washer (MD096930) $2.20
Only a few
of the items were necessary, but its a good time tune-up
with new water pump,
timing drive, etc.
The money you just saved by buying the shortblock
from M&S paid for
all the above components. May be a good time to port
heads, upgrade
turbos, forged pistons, rods, ARC w 720cc injectors, etc. You
could
max out all your credit cards and still not have all the goodies, .
.
. front mount intercooler, headers, upgraded output shaft on trans .
. .
ya baby
Congrats again, now the fun begins
-
------------------
Slo Joe
'92 R/T TT
12.236 @ 113.3 (118.8 best
trap)
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/homepage.htm
From above list. . .
Absolutely need:
gaskets - engine
rebuild (MD997670) $281.43
oil pump / front crank seal & case (MD175583)
$131.72
oil pan (MD199562) $105.79
rear crank seal & case (MD178606)
$31.74
Note: They claim the oil pick-up tube can be reused. I
haven't
confirmed this yet. BTW - there are also a few exhaust gaskets
you
will need to buy that are not included in the kit above and
some
copper washers for the coolant and oil lines to the turbos (run
ya
~$10).
Strongly suggest:
timing belt tensioner (MD319040)
$62.23
oil feed tube - rear turbo (MD174793) $12.82
oil feed tube - front
turbo (MD161898) $10.62
The strongly suggested items are cheap when you
consider what they
potentially save you (heads and turbos). The tensioner is
known to be
unsafe when reset in a vice (I know of low mileage failures).
I can't help you on the cost to have someone perfrom the work. It
is
probably more than you would want to pay. If you've got the time
and
know-how, go for it. Just pace yourself.
-
------------------
Slo Joe
'92 R/T TT
12.236 @ 113.3 (118.8 best
trap)
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/homepage.htm
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
To:
"TEAM 3S" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 13, 2000 11:15 AM
Subject: Team3S: Calling all engine
gurus.
Ok guys,
Some of you may recognize me
but most probably not. After a LONG
absence from working on my car,
I've finally jumped back into it and
have some "dead-horse" questions for the
engine experts out there.
First: During
disassembly of the motor I found shards of metal
in
the oil pan which
eventually were found to be from the bearings on
the
crank. At least
two of the bearings had spun. I know that the
journals on the crank are
glazed with a hardened material, but how
can I determine if this
coating was damaged to the point which I
need to replace
it?
Second, IF the crank is bad, and IF I'm not really interested
in
doing
any major mods at this time, would it make more sense,
financially
and
from a performance standpoint to ditch all efforts to
rebuild what I
have(1rst gen 2 bolt main block) and get a new or
rebuilt
shortblock(possibly a 4 bolt main) from some other
source?
LAST! I've been hearing about the 4 bolt main shortblock
for years
now, and I'm strongly considering going with that option. If
I do,
what sort of "compatability" problems may I encounter? In
other
words, is it a direct, bolt to bolt replacement, or
would
modifacations have to be made in order to use my existing
components?
Since I'm sure these topics have been explored ad-nauseum,
please try
to respond to me personally, I hate to weigh the list down
with
reposts and old information.
Thanks
- --
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
__________________________________________________
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***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 14:22:09
EDT
From: Playenfun@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: SIMPLE
QUESTION?
HI, sorry i've been asking so many question, but everytime i
get an answer i have more questions. What is the E.C.M fuse for? and
where exactly in the center console is it? I need to take the stero out,
but i don't want to pop out that fuse again and have problems starting the car.
Thanx.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 11:30:57
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S:
MPG question
Does anyone know what the MPG city/highway rating of a stock
'97 3000GT SL
is? Thanks.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric
Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 12:09:39
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Calling all engine gurus.
That coating is barely 5-8thou
thick. If you have any type of wear thats
visible..its gone.
On
Wed, 13 Sep 2000, Jeff Crabtree wrote:
> Ok guys,
>
> Some of you may recognize me but most probably
not. After a LONG
> absence from working on my car, I've finally
jumped back into it and
> have some "dead-horse" questions for the engine
experts out there.
>
> First: During
disassembly of the motor I found shards of metal in
> the oil pan which
eventually were found to be from the bearings on the
> crank. At
least two of the bearings had spun. I know that the journals
> on
the crank are glazed with a hardened material, but how can I
> determine
if this coating was damaged to the point which I need to
> replace
it?
>
> Second, IF the crank is bad, and IF I'm not really
interested in doing
> any major mods at this time, would it make more
sense, financially and
> from a performance standpoint to ditch all
efforts to rebuild what I
> have(1rst gen 2 bolt main block) and get a new
or rebuilt
> shortblock(possibly a 4 bolt main) from some other
source?
>
> LAST! I've been hearing about the 4 bolt main
shortblock for years now,
> and I'm strongly considering going with that
option. If I do, what sort
> of "compatability" problems may I
encounter? In other words, is it a
> direct, bolt to bolt
replacement, or would modifacations have to be made
> in order to use my
existing components?
>
> Since I'm sure these topics have been
explored ad-nauseum, please try to
> respond to me personally, I hate to
weigh the list down with reposts and
> old information.
>
>
Thanks
> --
> -Jeff Crabtree
> '91
Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
> 2K
Wrangler TJ
Sport
>
St. Louis, MO
>
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
|
The proven method to make a Supra race worthy, is to
|
| strip it down, and shove as many $20 bills as possible
|
| within
the cavity of the car
itself. |
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 13:43:37
-0500
From: sjc0u812@juno.com
Subject: Team3S: PCV
Catch Can et al
Hello to all:
I've recently purchased a catch
container with built in breather from
Summit Racing for the PCV system.
I went to get some hose for the
breather over lunch at Pegasus Racing, a
racing parts supplier here
locally in Milwaukee. I showed the guy the
apparatus and explained to
him what I was after. He questioned why I
wanted to do this and I
explained the goal of keeping any oil droplets out of
the intake
manifold. He sort of shook his head saying anything that
would pass
through the PCV valve would simply be vapor at best UNLESS there
was
something majorly wrong with the engine. And that the vacuum
created
with the stock setup was actually GOOD for the engine. Also, if
there
was to be any gain in hp at all, he equated it to BELOW one
tenth. He
recommended that because the car is driven primarily on the
street, and
is my daily driver, to leave it alone. So, here I am
staring at the
apparatus and looking for yet more advice on a subject we've
all been
reading about for a while.
TIA,
best,
SJ
________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 14:57:38
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: PCV Catch Can et al
> He sort of shook his head saying
anything that would pass
> through the PCV valve would simply be vapor at
best
> UNLESS there was something majorly wrong with the
engine.
He's right, on a non-turbo motor. On a turbo there's a
nominal amount of
blow-by past the rings that pressurizes the crankcase a
little bit and can
push oil thrown off the valve springs out the PCV
valve.
> Also, if there was to be any gain in hp at all, he
>
equated it to BELOW one tenth.
You aren't doing it for horsepower, you
are doing it to keep oil out of the
intake tract. Oil attracts grime
(even with a good air filter some small
particles make it through) in the
throttle body and reduces octane of fuel.
That's what you are trying to
prevent.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 15:05:29
-0500
From: "David B. Kopacz" <kopacz@vss.fsi.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: stereo question
Leonard Dy [LDy@acssys.com] writes:
LD> A few
days ago it rained hard enough to flood the parking lot
LD> where my car
was parked. Water was able to get in enough to wet
LD> the carpets
and unfortunately the amp. I dried everything out
LD> and now only
get sound from the rear right speaker. Should I
LD> consider the
amplifier dead and consider it time to get a new
LD> one.
Actually,
water itself shouldn't hurt the amp. The problem may be
what came in
with the water. If you got a bunch of mud (or worse
yet, oil) in there,
it may be conductive enough to keep the amp from
working. Can you look
inside the amp to see if there is a coating on
the circuits? If so, try
cleaning it off with 99% isopropyl alcohol
and a small brush.
The only
problem would be if something was being shorted when you
tried the amp and
got damaged when power was applied. But chances
are, it just needs to
be cleaned up a bit.
My mom's cat barfed on top of her TV set a few years
ago and it got
down through the vents onto the circuitry. She took the
back off the
set, cleaned it out with water, and let it dry thoroughly.
It worked
just fine. If cat barf didn't kill her TV, a little mud
shouldn't
destroy your amp.
Good
luck!
David
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:09:25
-0500
From: sjc0u812@juno.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
PCV Catch Can et al
Matt and Ken:
Thanks for the replies and
clarification, onward to the mod.
Best,
SJ
On Wed, 13 Sep
2000 14:57:38 -0500 "Jannusch, Matt"
<mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
writes:
> > He sort of shook his head saying anything that would
pass
> > through the PCV valve would simply be vapor at best
>
> UNLESS there was something majorly wrong with the engine.
>
>
He's right, on a non-turbo motor. On a turbo there's a nominal
>
amount of
> blow-by past the rings that pressurizes the crankcase a little
bit
> and can
> push oil thrown off the valve springs out the PCV
valve.
>
> > Also, if there was to be any gain in hp at all,
he
> > equated it to BELOW one tenth.
>
> You aren't doing
it for horsepower, you are doing it to keep oil out
> of the
>
intake tract. Oil attracts grime (even with a good air filter some
> small
> particles make it through) in the throttle body and
reduces octane
> of fuel.
> That's what you are trying to
prevent.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 17:42:37
-0400 (EDT)
From: stealth_es@webtv.net (Jason)
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MPG question
19-25 miles per gallon
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 23:48:08
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: PCV Catch Can et al
Send it back and get a closed one that
supports a vacuum condition (and not
cheap plastic in the hot engine
compartment !) The little vacuum for the
intake helps the PCV valve to get
the high pressure out. The more you
increase bosot on a car the more the
pressure in the crankcase as the feed
is from the intake plenum. The guy
probably knows cars but not Turbo cars.
Forget the "mod" on an NA car
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
- -----Ursprüngliche
Nachricht-----
Von: <sjc0u812@juno.com>
An: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Gesendet:
Mittwoch, 13. September 2000 20:43
Betreff: Team3S: PCV Catch Can et
al
> Hello to all:
>
> I've recently purchased a catch
container with built in breather from
> Summit Racing for the PCV
system.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 17:44:06
CDT
From: "Dan Erick (3SI #889)" <ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Strut Covers, Wires, Remote Start
Hey,
Has anyone else tried
this mod:
http://www.3si.org/pages/strutcovers.html
I
emailed him and he doesn't have any pics of what it looks like afterwards
and when I picture it in my mind I just can't see how it looks good. Would
you experts recommend this mod?
Can you add remote start to a car
with a manual trans? =)
Lastly, has anyone seen the add for those plug
wires that are supposed to
have 300x times the power? I believe they are
called HotWires and they build
up a charge and then fire it in extremely
short bursts, The greatly
increased heat of the spark is supposed to
increase HP they claim. Anyone
know about these? Thanks again!
Dan
Erick
Firestorm Red 92 Stealth R/T TT
K&N FIPK
http://vr4.cjb.net/
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***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 13:37:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: PCV Catch Can et al
Hi SJ,
The catch can is there to
limit the oil that makes its way to the
intake hose. It does not change power
output. The fact that we have
oil in our intake hoses is comment enough to
the parts supplier's
statement. I had my rear turbo intake hose off last
weekend (clutch
hose repair and new addition to the web site Garage page) and
was
suprised to see not much oil in it at all. I didn't even bother
trying
to clean the hose there was so little oil. The compressor
wheel looked clean
also. But it has only been 3000 miles since the
engine rebuild.
Did
you take your intake hose off and see if oil was a problem worth
the
catch-can mod?
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
--> http://www.stealth316.com/
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <sjc0u812@juno.com>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 13, 2000 12:43 PM
Subject: Team3S: PCV Catch Can et
al
Hello to all:
I've recently purchased a catch container
with built in breather from
Summit Racing for the PCV system. I went to
get some hose for the
breather over lunch at Pegasus Racing, a racing parts
supplier here
locally in Milwaukee. I showed the guy the apparatus and
explained
to
him what I was after. He questioned why I wanted to do
this and I
explained the goal of keeping any oil droplets out of the
intake
manifold. He sort of shook his head saying anything that would
pass
through the PCV valve would simply be vapor at best UNLESS there
was
something majorly wrong with the engine. And that the vacuum
created
with the stock setup was actually GOOD for the engine. Also,
if
there
was to be any gain in hp at all, he equated it to BELOW one
tenth.
He
recommended that because the car is driven primarily on the
street,
and
is my daily driver, to leave it alone. So, here I am
staring at the
apparatus and looking for yet more advice on a subject we've
all been
reading about for a while.
TIA,
best,
SJ
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You Yahoo!?
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***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 19:46:45
-0600
From: "Matthew H. Fogle" <foglem@t-three.com>
Subject: Team3S:
blew off my y-pipe!
Well, with stock boost pressure on my 91' VR4 at
7,200 feet I blew my
y-pipe off of the intake manifold... Anyone with ideas
on how to fix and
or prevent this would be helpful! Thanks! I think the piece
of rubber
around the pipe where the two come together is kinda shredded
now.
-Matthew H. Fogle
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 21:11:40
-0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: blew off my y-pipe!
Wow, 7200 Feet - how much Hp do you
have??? What type wings did you add to
the car??? I'm guessing
you at least added a prop to the front of the car
to keep it aloft for up to
7200 feet... So, what happened when you lost
engine power - or is the
car light enough to float back to earth safely???
J/K - you need a
new gasket and a better that stock clamp. If you still
have problems,
you might as well buy a aftermarket y-pipe with the proper
fittings - I've
heard they don't come off if tightened correctly - whereas
the factory y-pip
can come off fairly easily even if attached to the rights
specs...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Matthew H. Fogle
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 8:47 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Team3S: blew off my y-pipe!
Well, with stock boost pressure on my 91'
VR4 at 7,200 feet I blew my
y-pipe off of the intake manifold... Anyone with
ideas on how to fix and
or prevent this would be helpful! Thanks! I think the
piece of rubber
around the pipe where the two come together is kinda shredded
now.
-Matthew H. Fogle
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 21:44:40
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: blew off my y-pipe!
> J/K - you need a new gasket and a
better that
> stock clamp. If you still have problems, you
>
might as well buy a aftermarket y-pipe with
> the proper fittings - I've
heard they don't
> come off if tightened correctly - whereas
> the
factory y-pip can come off fairly easily
> even if attached to the rights
specs...
I've run up to 21 psi continuous from 1st through fourth gear
without
blowing off the stock Y-pipe, with a regular clamp. Use a good
clamp - a
T-bolt clamp if at all possible. Jegs sells them if you can't
find one
elsewhere:
http://www.jegs.com
Search for "Jegster
T-Bolt Clamps". I don't know offhand what size you
need, but they are
available all the way up to 5" inner diameter, which
should be more than
sufficient.
Those will not blow off (you can probably tighten it enough
to crush the
throttle body if you tried hard enough), and keeping the factory
Y-pipe will
save you some money to put into more useful modifications ($9
< $350).
The aftermarket Y-pipes sure look pretty though.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 22:29:44
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Strut Covers, Wires, Remote Start
> Can you add remote
start to a car with a
> manual trans? =)
You can, by bypassing the
car starter's "Park" switch so it always thinks
the car is in park.
This is very dangerous though if someone uses your car
and puts it in gear
when parking (the normal thing to do) or if you forget
and leave it in gear
yourself. If the car successfully starts, it could go
runaway on
you.
> Lastly, has anyone seen the add for those
> plug wires
that are supposed to have 300x
> times the power? I believe they are
called
> HotWires and they build up a charge and then
> fire it in
extremely short bursts, The
> greatly increased heat of the spark
is
> supposed to increase HP they claim. Anyone
> know about these?
Thanks again!
The ones you are talking about are the Nology HotWires,
right?
http://www.hotwires.com/hot.html
Unfortunately
they don't list an application for 3/S cars. You could maybe
rig up a
set of the wires for Eclipse/Talon since they use basically the
same plug
connector assembly, but I think the rear cylinder bank might be
too far of a
reach. If they fit in the head wells I'm pretty sure they'd
reach on
the fronk bank since that's actually a bit shorter than the
Eclipse's
reach. You could probably get a super cheap set of aftermarket
Eclipse
wires just to check the length and fit.
$263 or more per set seems a bit
high for plug wires - for that much I'd
want to see some back-to-back dyno
tests so I can see the benefits in hard
numbers.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#265
*********************