team3s
Saturday, September 9
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
261
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 8 Sep 2000 14:16:11 -0400
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S:
?s:Boost gauge lighting & AWD wheel lock ups
(aftermarket) boost
gauge lighting: does anyone know how to set it up so
that the illumination on
the boost gauge comes on when u turn on the head
lights?
AWD wheel
lockups: I asked this on the starnet list but got no answers,
so
perhaps this is a better place to ask: what causes the AWD wheel
lock
ups? is it because of the fluid drying up inside the transfer case
or
rear differential? if so how often should we top it
off?
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***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 14:16:05
-0400
From: Rudy Morales <rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: The Newbie with all the problems update
Hi
everybody,
I have been doing some research and it seems that most
of the 3000
mitsubishi engines have problems with the valve guides. I spoke
to
a master mechanic for Dodge and he tells me that he has seen the
valve
guides problem in Caravans, Stealths and some other models
that have this
engine.
The valve guides is the source of the smoke problem that most of
us
have burning oil after the car has been idleing (sp?) with the AC
running.
It may not be a safety recall but definitely is a manufacturing
defect.
At 01:49 PM 9/8/00 -0400, Donnelly, Michael wrote:
>I
was thinking of just having the bare minimum fixed and then dumping
it.
>Of course the bare minimum is still 4k. Fixing the Valve Guides
requires
>machining costs as well as parts and labor. Did I say I
was upset?
>
>Michael Donnelly
>Mechanical
Engineer
>Defense Industry, R&D Design and Analysis
>94' RT
TT
Rudy Morales
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 11:11:28
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
The Newbie with all the problems update
A used motor might be your best
bet ---- some of the guys on the list have
gotten good deals [ 2K ] for
complete engines. You might ask for info on
that route.
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
> The funny
thing about it is that if I had a vintage 70's and 60's vehicle I
> could
make all of the repairs myself. I could also come up with the
spare
> parts for a song or sometimes even less. I just don't relish
the idea of
> using my daily driver as a learning process, that and the
fact that I'm
> lazy. I grew up around Muscle Car fanatics. Of
course if it were a Muscle
> Car I wouldn't be having this problem.
The timing belt wouldn't be a belt
> it would be a chain or on some lucky
occasions, gear driven. Goddamn Design
> Engineers always looking
for a place to save a buck and fine tune factors of
> safety a.k.a.
factors of ignorance. Really pisses me off. %$#^%*(&
>
> I was thinking of just having the bare minimum fixed and then dumping
it.
> Of course the bare minimum is still 4k. Fixing the Valve
Guides requires
> machining costs as well as parts and labor. Did I
say I was upset?
>
> Michael Donnelly
>
Mechanical Engineer
> Defense Industry, R&D Design and
Analysis
> 94' RT TT
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 11:17:08
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: The Newbie with all the problems update
> > I would
suggest taking a mechanics class real quick! Ouch! If your
>
> pistons
> > are shot, add that to the bill as well. How much
does a new engine cost
> > anyways? You've got to be getting
close to that number right now!
> >
> The funny thing about
it is that if I had a vintage 70's and 60's vehicle I
> could make all of
the repairs myself. I could also come up with the spare
> parts for
a song or sometimes even less. I just don't relish the idea of
>
using my daily driver as a learning process, that and the fact that I'm
>
lazy. I grew up around Muscle Car fanatics. Of course if it were a
Muscle
> Car I wouldn't be having this problem. The timing belt
wouldn't be a belt
> it would be a chain or on some lucky occasions, gear
driven. Goddamn Design
> Engineers always looking for a place to
save a buck and fine tune factors of
> safety a.k.a. factors of
ignorance. Really pisses me off. %$#^%*(&
>
> I was
thinking of just having the bare minimum fixed and then dumping it.
> Of
course the bare minimum is still 4k. Fixing the Valve Guides
requires
> machining costs as well as parts and labor. Did I say I
was upset?
Is the glass half empty, or half full? This is acutally
a good opportunity to
upgrade your engine. Yes, it will cost you
$5-$6k, but you can upgrade to
forged pistons & rods, and maybe do some
porting & polishing on the heads.
Consider buying a beater car for your
daily driver for awhile, rescue the car
from that expensive dealer, and have
the engine upgraded for the same money that
dealer is about to ream from
you. You should have only accrued about 5-6 hours
of labor from the
dealer so far. The '94 is really a very nice car to have, is
the rest
of it in good condition? With a new beefier engine, you will be
ready
for fuel and boost upgrades. Then you can easily have a 500+ HP
daily driver
that you can put a lot of miles on...
- --
Forget
world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 11:21:43
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ?s:Boost gauge lighting & AWD wheel lock ups
>
(aftermarket) boost gauge lighting: does anyone know how to set it up so
>
that the illumination on the boost gauge comes on when u turn on the
head
> lights?
Wire the gauge to the dimmer switch. It pops
right out of the dash. Just probe
the switch with a voltmeter to find 2
wires that give you higher DC voltage when
the switch is on
bright.
> AWD wheel lockups: I asked this on the starnet
list but got no answers,
> so perhaps this is a better place to ask:
what causes the AWD wheel lock
> ups? is it because of the fluid
drying up inside the transfer case or
> rear differential? if so how
often should we top it off?
Wheel lock up can occure when the transfer
case siezes due to lack of
lubrication. You can easily top-it-off each
oil change for an extra 5 minutes.
I just replace mine every year, I have no
leaks currently.
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 13:25:16
-0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
For Sale: '95 Spoiler, Rear Wiper
Well, I finally got a rear hatch
that will work for me. It's black, but
that's OK, 'cause the entire
things gettin' painted anyways. I paid more
than I would have liked, so
I am going to get rid of the "extras" they
wouldn't take off at the
junkyard.
'95 Spoiler off of a '95 3000GT Base Model (is Solano
Black now, can easily
be painted - has some minor scratches that will buff
out easily, and is not
faded at all - also includes working LED brake
light)
Rear Wiper Motor/Assembly - Also off a '95 3000GT Base Model -
will fit all
years 3000GT. Is in good working condition.
If
anyone is interested in these parts, make me an offer - send the e-mail
to prac@flash.net
If it is not sent to that
e-mail address, I will ignore the offer.
If you send the offer, or a copy
of it back to the list, I will also ignore
that offer, as I do not want to
clutter the list about this. Also, if you
have any questions, e-mail
ME, not the list.
Thanks, I will take pictures shortly...
-
-Cody
P.S. It was kinda funny... The car was sitting there,
and when I walked up
to it (wrecked of course), I immediately saw the VR-4
emblems on it. I
immediately went to look at the rear drivetrain to see
about maybe
purchasing the whole rest of the car... When I looked -
guess what... No
rear drivetrain... When I looked at the interior
- it was cloth... Whoever
had this car put VR-4 stickers on it...
and it wasn't even an SL...
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 14:25:20
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: What pistons should I buy?
"More displacement is a very good
thing on both NA and turbo cars.
A 93mm bore for instance will raise
displacement by 4.2% over stock
(not all blocks
can be bored this
large). Lets say you can safely make 500hp on a
stock
displacement
engine with appropriate bolt on mods and high octane fuel.
You will
now make ~20
more hp if you can maintain the same boost and temps
(lots of
assumptions here). For
many of us, turning up the boost a
couple more psi means the
difference between
running safe and knocking our
way to a rebuild. I'll take added power
without
raising boost
anytime."
Not to mention, you ALSO increase your low-end torque... off
boost.
This helps turbos spool a bit quicker too. I am putting custom
Ross
pistons and a 2.4l crank in my 2.0 liter talon. In the end it
will
have 2.3 liters, a 7500rpm limit (before piston velocity gets
too
high), and hopefully a lot more oomph to get my 3500rpm
torque
converter spooled up.
Vineet Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 15:11:46
-0400
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
The Newbie with all the problems update
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Ken Middaugh [SMTP:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 2:17 PM
> To: Donnelly, Michael
>
Cc: 'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: The Newbie with all the problems update
>
> Is
the glass half empty, or half full? This is acutally a good
>
opportunity to
> upgrade your engine. Yes, it will cost you $5-$6k,
but you can upgrade to
> forged pistons & rods, and maybe do some
porting & polishing on the heads.
>
> Consider buying a beater
car for your daily driver for awhile, rescue the
> car
> from that
expensive dealer, and have the engine upgraded for the same
> money
that
> dealer is about to ream from you. You should have only
accrued about 5-6
> hours
> of labor from the dealer so far.
The '94 is really a very nice car to
> have, is
> the rest of it in
good condition? With a new beefier engine, you will be
>
ready
> for fuel and boost upgrades. Then you can easily have a 500+
HP daily
> driver
> that you can put a lot of miles on...
>
> --
> Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General
Atomics
> San Diego
>
OK, fair enough, whom would you suggest I
take it to? While I'm at it, I
could also have a 3 angle valve job down
on the valve seats, get the heads
milled to increase the "squeeze", I also
know I guy that will apply thermal
coatings to various parts. Who could
I trust to port the heads? I don't
have a flow bench. It's always
easy to spend someone else's money. I
already have another 'paid for'
car that I am using right now, 96 Cherokee.
It is boring as sin to drive
thou. I'm sorry if I sound like an a**hole but
I am really
steamed. I still appreciate all the help that everyone is
giving me,
thank you. Other than the Timing Belt problems, the ECU and the
2nd
gear synchro, the car has a very small ding in the front of the hood
that the
dent guy couldn't get under. There is also a relief where the
front
bumper was on the nose, which I would also like to get smoothed over.
It
needs a CD holder and a spare time, which were not in the car when I
bought
it. Besides these problems, the car is in good shape. Knock
on
wood. Other info on the car:
94 RT TT Black (my favorite
color)
Chrome wheels (I am really more of a billet aluminum kind of
guy)
61,000 miles
I live in Southwest Pennsylvania and the car was a
repossession from Alaska
with no sign of rust
Paid 11,900 for
it
Money wise I can handle it, but it will be a little tight right now
since I
am planning of going to Europe in October.
Thanks for the
feedback,
Michael Donnelly
Concurrent Technologies
Corporation
Johnstown, PA
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 23:11:58
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Strange behaviour (datalog)
You may remember the car of my
client with the strange behaviour (boost
wise) and the drops in air flow and
the corresponding fuel curve.
Here's the first log again where one can
see the very strange curve (pink)
of the injector timing as well as a lot
knock at STOCK boost level
:
http:/www.rtec.ch/cars/yves/yves_19-8-00_1.gif
The behaviour on
the log was very well noticeable like boost is built up and
then reduced
heavy and then again built up but very slowly.
I then got the car last
weekend and my diagnostics showed this :
- - timing ok
- - plugs ok
- -
wastegates ok
- - no oil in y-pipe
- - BPV ok... well it was the stock one
:)
- - Filtercharger did not change anything as well as resetting the ECU did
not
help
For sure I did not want to install a BC and increase boost to
1bar with such
an unhealthy car so I made some steps and rechecked the car
then.
1. BOV (Greddy Type S) : Only a slight change in behaviour, better
due to
less temperature
2. I then disconnected the stock boost solenoid
and voilą... no bad signs
anymore. Of course boot was only 0.4 bars then
:)
3. Installed bleeder valve and set it to around 0.8 bars (as it was in
my
car), stock solenoid still out. Result : 0.85 bars, slowly achieved but
zero
knock and nice behaviour. This told me that the problem must be around
the
stock solenoid valve and I decided to install the DSBC as well as
regapping
the plugs (0.034").
4. Set boost to 0.85 bars with the DSBC and
my test-run showed very little
knock and a very good behaviour.
5. Tuned
Gain to 16 and different ratios. Any setting that was too high
boost resulted
in an O2 sensor reading of less than 0.92V what also caused
some knock. Boost
was then around 1.06bars. Check out the
log
http:/www.rtec.ch/cars/yves/yves_2-9-00_9.gif . Here you can see
the
inaccepteable high amount of knock at the end of 3rd gear.
6. Tuned
DSBC down to a good level of around 1.02bars and owner then drove
the car.
See log http:/www.rtec.ch/cars/yves/yves_2-9-00_13.gif .Please note
the
difference of the time from one to the other gear as he has the car for
only
7 months now and has to learn a little. There is now a very small
amount of
knock and very nice curves...-> customer happy :)
Now, what was the
problem ? The plugs looked very good but the gap was way
too large, more than
0.046" ! After regapping the plugs, the problem wasn't
solved but it felt and
loocked much better. I had no high overboost due to
the stock solenoid but
always when it closed the wastegates seemed to open
way too quick causing the
high drop. With the DSBC the car changed totally
to a new car (what the
client said). The dual-solenoid does its work par
excellence and all problems
were gone with its installation (and regapping
the plugs) as well as the BOV
eliminated the "owl" under the hood. Another
good thing is that milage
increased a lot.
This experience is another proof of how important the
gap of the plug is.
Just installing a bleeder valve or BC may increase such
problems and
therefore the plugs should always be regapped. Also it showed me
again how
important the O2 value is that there is 0 knock with 0.94V and
below 0.92V
there is some knock that increases quickly and causes the timing
to be
retarded. The BPV wasn't the problem as I thought at first but the
client
wanted the owl to go ;-)
Happy boosting
everyone,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
Sidenote : The datalogger has
paid itselfs many time now !!
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 14:18:08
-0700
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Remote
Here's a half assed stupid question. My keyless entry remote looks
like
crap. It still works great but all the lettering off of both sides has
been
rubbed off. I called Mitsu and they want $120.00 to replace it. Bullshit
I
said. Does anyone know where I can find a new remote at a realistic price?
I
told the dude that for that price I could have 50 keys made. He agreed.
The
other option is to go buy a full fledged alarm I suppose but I though
I'd
try this first. Thanks.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales
Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc. (ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 17:25:04
-0400
From: "Michael" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Remote
A lot of dealers will literally have boxes of the
remotes. Mine let me just
get a new plastic cover for mine.
Didn't charge me a penny.
Michael
98 VR4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Bart Kurek
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 17:18
To: Team3S
List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Remote
Here's a half assed stupid
question. My keyless entry remote looks like
crap. It still works great but
all the lettering off of both sides has been
rubbed off. I called Mitsu and
they want $120.00 to replace it. Bullshit I
said. Does anyone know where I
can find a new remote at a realistic price? I
told the dude that for that
price I could have 50 keys made. He agreed. The
other option is to go buy a
full fledged alarm I suppose but I though I'd
try this first.
Thanks.
- -Bart Kurek
Sales Engineer
Electric Lightwave Inc.
(ELIX)
http://www.eli.net
mailto:bart.kurek@eli.net
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 05:38:58
-0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
intercooler upgrade
Hi Guys,
I am researching optimal intercooler
upgrades. I want to avoid a front
mount unit. Anyone have any experience with
the Alamo Series 2 system??
How about the HKS upgrade. I am wondering
how much more efficient the
Alamo system is relative to the increased cost
(about $600+). Anyone
with experience and wisdom to share here would be
appreciated.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 8 Sep 2000 18:37:53
-0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine parts gone.
I have to appologize I am not able to sell the
engine parts I posted the other day. See Below for details.
Yellow
Freight did it to me again. Yellow Freight damaged a new shortblock and it
took 45 days to settle the claim. They finally paid me the full insurance
value becasue I claimed the block had no salvage value.
Yellow Freight
would not release my damage claim payment check until they picked up the block
for salvage. When I asked about buying the salvage block they said to talk
to salvage department. They picked up the block that day and I called the
salvage department the next day after they had a chance to look at the
block. The salvage department said I was too late, the block is being sent
to Kansas city to be sold at a salvage aution. Since I am not an approved
salvage buyer I can not even bid on the block. They will not even tell me
who buys the block. Some junk dealer in Kansas is going to buy the block
for scrap steel prices an junk it! I can not do anything because I
reported that the block was damaged beyond any value.
Just a warning,
always insure for replacement value not the actual purchase price, and if
something like this happens to you be sure to work out all details before
sending in your damage claim.
I am going to rebuild my 2 bolt main with
clevite 77 bearings and forged pistons.
I still have a 93+ oil pan and
front and rear oil seals for sale, all of the parts needed to convert a
91,92 2 bolt main engine to a 93+ 4-bolt main engine. Since these
are brand new and still in the packaging I want 75% of what Tallahasse
Mitsubishi charged me.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com
91 3000gt
Vr4, back down to 1 damaged engine.
_______________________________________________________________________
Free
Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html
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***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 22:11:00
EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Parts wanted 5 to 6 spd switch
I have both the 6-spd tranny & a BRAND
NEW transfer case (new unopened box)
I must be on Santa's good list. Still
need some parts as follows:
Shifter cables, rear diff or gears for it,
drive shaft, shifter, did I forget
anything?
if anyone has any of this
stuff please email me. The shaft & shifter I'll
probably go aftermarket
but if it''s around I'll take it now.
I'm not immediately switching to
the 6-spd - I don't have all the other parts
&
I want to race in a
few weeks :)
Arty 91 VR-4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 10:22:36
+0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: NEED INFO
Hi All,
Anybody can help me, how to indentify a
bad lash adjuster.
My Mitsu has a problem with a lash adjuster (clicking) in
which it is
clicking not permanent but intermittent. I have checked it all by
pressing
hardly but it looks fine. I have tried to hear carefully where the
sound is
coming from but none of them can be identified.
I can remove and
replace all adjuster easily with 12" minus screw driver as
I got it from
somebody.
Kindly regards,
Harijanto -
Indonesia
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 20:54:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HELP! What's leaking?
Is it..oil? Water?
Clear? Black? Red? Blue????
On Fri, 8 Sep 2000, Dan
Erick (3SI #889) wrote:
> Guys, I went for some "spirited" driving
today, ate supper and then before I
> got in my car for work today I
noticed a puddle under the car. Upon
> inspection it appears to be coming
from something about a foot to the right
> (to your left if you're
standing in front of the car) of the front pre-cat?
> The cat at the
front of the car just behind and in the center of the two
> front tires.
I don't have a clue what that piece is, but should I be driving
> it in
this condition? Thanks!
>
> Dan Erick
> Firestorm Red 92
Stealth R/T TT
> K&N FIPK
> http://vr4.cjb.net/
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
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> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 00:28:04
EDT
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
HELP! What's leaking?
In a message dated 09/08/2000 11:55:52 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com
writes:
<<
> Guys, I went for some "spirited" driving
today, ate supper and then before
I
> got in my car for work
today I noticed a puddle under the ca >>
******Dan,
Not sure if this is your problem, but there is a breather on
the trans that small
amounts of fluid can be blown out of
during 'spirited'
driving and then drip off when you park
the
car as you
described but it should be a very small
amount.
Wayne
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 00:49:11
EDT
From: DKoenigs@aol.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leaning out the fuel mixture?
I have a '94 Dodge Stealth R/T
non-turbo with automatic transmission. The
3/4 throttle scenario
voiced by Travis sounds very familiar. I don't think
mine is as bad as
either of you indicate you are experiencing but the "seat
of the pants"
definitely like the 3/4 throttle better. I doubt if it is
running rich
but have no way of knowing for sure other than the color of the
plugs and
the fact that the self diagnostics does not indicate a rich
condition.
I know that's not terribly scientific for you guys with the data
loggers but
it's all I have.
I assume you guys are both running the DOHC 3.0 liter
engine as I am.
Actually I rather suspect it has something to do with
the air velocity in the
intake when you hit WOT rapidly. Just takes
too long for the air mass to get
moving. I can't say that I experience
this problem when going to WOT
starting from 4500 RPM or so. Has
anyone done any tuning with the variable
induction valves and /or
motor. I suspect some improvement could be had here
but have not tried
it. How about you guys? Do you experience better WOT
performance
when you nail it from a higher
RPM?
Don
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Sep 2000 00:00:39
-0500
From: "Greg S." <wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
HELP! What's leaking?
It's not just A/C condensation is it?
If so .... it's quite normal.
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> Is
it..oil? Water? Clear? Black? Red?
Blue????
>
> On Fri, 8 Sep 2000, Dan Erick (3SI #889)
wrote:
>
> > Guys, I went for some "spirited" driving today, ate
supper and then before I
> > got in my car for work today I noticed a
puddle under the car. Upon
> > inspection it appears to be coming from
something about a foot to the right
> > (to your left if you're
standing in front of the car) of the front pre-cat?
> > The cat at the
front of the car just behind and in the center of the two
> > front
tires. I don't have a clue what that piece is, but should I be driving
>
> it in this condition? Thanks!
> >
> > Dan Erick
>
> Firestorm Red 92 Stealth R/T TT
> > K&N FIPK
> > http://vr4.cjb.net/
> >
> >
_________________________________________________________________________
>
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> >
>
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>
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>
>
> >
> > *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
> | Get your
FREE Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
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*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 10:24:18
-0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
TIRE concern + noisy sunroof
Wow, I must say you have a lot of nerve.
When I bought my car I had
Goodyear Eagles on them and they had the same worn
cracked appearance. I
ponied up the grand or so to re-tire the car so I would
not retire early
if you know what I mean.
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
aa2345@wayne.edu wrote:
>
> Hello Everybody,
>
> Two weeks ago I upgraded from a 93
Stealth Base (5spd) to a new 95 Red
> VR4. The car is in perfect
shape. It has 31,000 miles on it. I'm still
> shopping around
for a different warranty on it. (Currently - $3,086 for
>
48mos/48000 miles). The leather is in great shape and so is the
paint.
> The car runs great but I have one major concern and one more
minor.
>
> 1) Tire related - I have
Bridgestone Potenza RE711 245/40ZR18 tires.
> These are not available in
the US or Europe from the research that I've
> done so far. They are
only available in Japan. However, I noticed SEVERE
> cracking of the
outside edge of the tires (more on the front ones than the
> back).
I am worried about a tire failure because I drive the car fast
> quite
often with top speed runs here and there. The tires are properly
>
inflated (40 front/ 38 back). Can you guys look at the following
link
> PLEASE to give me your expert opinion whether this is normal for
these
> tires (if Merrit and some of the other guys that race their cars
at the
> track could look at these pictures of my tires I would appreciate
it-I
> know you guys stress out your tires more than average). If
anybody has
> had any experience with these tires (if you are from Japan),
or a similar
> model number, please let me know. Pictures 3*.jpg and
7*.jpg are the most
> important if you want to save some time.
> http://www.cs.wayne.edu/~iraicu/VR4tires/
>
> 2) Factory Sunroof - The factory sunroof
makes excessive noise even
> at 70MPH, let alone 100+. I traced the
problem, and I noticed that the
> sunroof does not close all the
way. I close it all tha way initially, but
> due to a ~90 degree
free play in the heel that raises the roof, it opens
> up a bit after I
lock it in the closed position (the inside mechanism
> unwinds itself ~90
deg). I tried to take the mechanism apart, and I see
> where the
built in from the factory free play is, but I'm sure there must
> be a way
some of you guys figured out how to make it close all the way.
> Maybe I
totally have to disassemble the mechanism. The loudness is
>
annoying. I wish it didn't have a sunroof.
>
> If you want to
look at my brother's website to see pictures of our cars
> (not yet
complete) you can browse at:
> http://www.cs.wayne.edu/~iraicu/main_personal.htm
>
> Thanks for all your help.
>
> -Mike-
> 95 Red
VR4
> Detroit Area, Michigan
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 23:18:54
-0700
From: "Bbizo" <bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: HELP! What's leaking?
Hate to tell you, but your spirited driving
has either cracked your transfer
case housing or your transmission housing(in
all likelyhood). Get it on jack
stands before you drive it again. If the
transfer case dries up, it can
easily sieze all four tires while at highway
speeds.
Bob Bissonette
> Guys, I went for some "spirited"
driving today, ate supper and then before
I
> got in my car for work
today I noticed a puddle under the car. Upon
> inspection it appears to be
coming from something about a foot to the
right
> (to your left if
you're standing in front of the car) of the front
pre-cat?
> The cat at
the front of the car just behind and in the center of the two
> front
tires. I don't have a clue what that piece is, but should I
be
driving
> it in this condition? Thanks
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 12:48:52
-0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Remote
The following is from www.3si.org
--> Tech Tips --> Keyless Remote
Replacement remotes are available
for about 25.00 +shipping from:
Bill Seidle's Mitsubishi
2757 N.W. 36th
St.
Miami Fl. 33142
(305) 633-7722 or (305) 637-5246
I personally
ordered one of these about two years ago.
Instructions for how to program
it for your car are located at the above
mentioned
website.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Bart Kurek" <bart_kurek@eli.net>
To: "Team3S List
(E-mail)" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, September 08, 2000 4:18 PM
Subject: Team3S: Remote
>
Here's a half assed stupid question. My keyless entry remote looks like
>
crap. It still works great but all the lettering off of both sides
has
been
> rubbed off. I called Mitsu and they want $120.00 to replace
it. Bullshit I
> said. Does anyone know where I can find a new remote at a
realistic price?
I
> told the dude that for that price I could have 50
keys made. He agreed.
The
> other option is to go buy a full fledged
alarm I suppose but I though I'd
> try this first.
Thanks.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#261
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