team3s
Wednesday, September 6
2000 Volume 01 : Number
258
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:29:23 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Turbo hiss and Apexi installation
Well, I did reconfigure the
hoses this weekend. Jeff Lucius helped explain
to me visually the way
that the wastegates are connected. Now, my boost
controller has the
input to the NC port coming in from the Y-pipe elbow. It
then goes out
the COM port to the H adapter. I unplugged the H adapter port
that went
to the stock solenoid and capped both it and the now open solenoid
port
off. There is still an open port on the Apexi solenoid (the NO
port).
Are you saying that I am supposed to cap that off? That's the
inlet port
used for cars not running wastegates. Wouldn't it have been
so much easier
if Apexi would have just written a halfway decent instruction
booklet
explaining a few key theories/examples?
:)
Thanks!
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken
Middaugh" <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
"Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Cc:
"Team3S Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 05, 2000 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: Turbo hiss and Apexi
installation
>
> > My hiss is coming from the open hole
on the Apexi solendoid. It's
supposed
> > to vent to
atmosphere and so it is. It's normal in my case.
>
> The Apexi
solenoid should not hiss if installed correctly.
>
> Most folks
install the solenoid as described on the bottom diagram of page
40 of
>
the Apexi Operation and Installation manual (this is what Matt was trying
to
say
> :)). The wastegate actuators should be connected to common
port of the
> solenoid. The pressure source, i.e. the hose from the
y-pipe, is
connected to
> the normally open port. When the
solenoid cycles, the wastegates either
"see"
> the pressure source from
the normally open port, thus actuating the
wastegates,
> OR the
wastegates "see" atmosphere pressure from the normally closed
port
and
> are not actuated thus allowing boost to
build.
>
> In your installation, you substituted the stock boost
control solenoid
with the
> Apexi solenoid. For this type of
installation to work correctly, you will
need
> to make the Apexi
solenoid "look" like the stock solenoid, i.e. you will
need to
> cap
off the normally open port. Then the hoses that were on the
stock
solenoid
> should connect to the common and normally closed ports
of the Apexi
solenoid.
> Although no one has done an installation like
this yet, it should work
fine, as
> long as you cap off the normally
open port. Otherwise it will hiss since
you
> will essentially
have a breech in the vacuum line system.
>
> Below is a good
description by Jeffrey Young on how the stock vacuum
system
>
works:
> <<<
> Let's see if I can describe the operation of
those hoses for you. The
turbo
> wastegates (the things
that open to
> reduce boost and close to increase boost) run on a positive
pressure. At
6.X
> lbs. they open and vent the exhaust
gas
> past the turbine wheel and drop the boost. The front and back
turbo
castigates
> are connected to 2 of the connections
> at the
4-way connector. The third connection is from the y-pipe
(before
the
> throttle body). This provides the positive
>
pressure that is used to open the wastegates. The fourth connection
goes
to the
> boost control solenoid on the fire
> wall.
The other side of the boost control solenoid is connected to
a
negative
> pressure (right in front of the rear turbo's
>
intake...sucking air in).
>
> When your car want to make boost, the
control solenoid opens up and draws
the
> positive pressure created by
the
> y-pipe connection off, keeping the wastegates closed (and making
boost).
When
> the ECU decides that enough boost
> has been made,
it closes the control solenoid, pressure from the y-pipe
> connection
builds to 6.X lbs. and opens the
> wastegates (releasing boost).
>
>>>
>
> Good luck,
> Ken
> --
> Forget
world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
>
> Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San
Diego
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 14:49:36
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Turbo hiss and Apexi installation
> Well, I did
reconfigure the hoses this weekend. Jeff Lucius helped explain
> to
me visually the way that the wastegates are connected. Now, my
boost
> controller has the input to the NC port coming in from the Y-pipe
elbow. It
> then goes out the COM port to the H adapter. I
unplugged the H adapter port
> that went to the stock solenoid and capped
both it and the now open solenoid
> port off. There is still an open
port on the Apexi solenoid (the NO port).
> Are you saying that I am
supposed to cap that off?
Nope, this is not necessary now, since
your new installation configuration is
now like the diagram on page 40 of the
Apexi manual. However, you have the
boost source (hose from the rear of
the y-pipe) on the normally closed port
instead of the normally open
port. It will work OK this way, however if the
Apexi fails for any
reason, you can overboost and possibly incur engine damage.
Connecting to
the normally open port is a more fail-safe installation. Also with
your
current installation, you should no longer have any hissing from the
solenoid
now.
> That's the inlet port
> used for cars not running
wastegates. Wouldn't it have been so much easier
> if Apexi would
have just written a halfway decent instruction booklet
> explaining a few
key theories/examples? :)
Of course, but where would the challenge
be? ;)
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 19:43:48
-0400
From: "J. Couture" <labrat101@home.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Transfer case
There was no leak before it went to them and I
personally with the help of
another member here replaced the clutch last
Feb. There was no leak and
there was no jb weld gooped on it. I
called the shop that did the engine
swap and they told me they saw the jb
weld but there was no leak so they
didnt feel they had to tell me. When
I pointed out to them that it was
leaking when I picked it up and I even had
the mechanic put it on a hoist to
see the leak he said he thought that they
DID inform me the transfer case
had a crack and had been repaired. They flat
out deny damaging or trying to
repair the trnasfer case.
1. They admit
that they knew it was damaged but never informed me.
2. They knew it was
leaking when I took it.
3. They told me they tightened up the bolts and not
to worry.
4. I know this damage and repair did not exist before it went to
them
They had no problem pointing out EVERY other little thing that was
wrong
with the car. Everything they mentioned I had replaced or repaired.
It
basically comes down to my and my witness's word against theirs.
less than
$1000 in repairs.
PS, thanks for letting me vent. I know
this isnt exactly a tech issue but I
dont have very much experience dealing
with shops and I dont know where to
go for help.
J.
Couture
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 1:42 PM
To: J.
Couture
Cc: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer case
> I removed my transfer case after
it froze up last week. I have had my car
> back from an complete
engine replacement\rebuild for about 3 weeks. Once
I
> got it off
I found that the transfer case casing was cracked and someone
had
>
tried to put some JB Weld or similar adheasive on it to stop it from
>
leaking. Well it didnt stop the leak and my case locked up due to lack
of
> lube. Bearings are all trashed. its a mess. My output shaft from
the
tranny
> shows some wear as well.
>
> Can I hold the
shop that removed and replaced the engine, tranny and x-fer
> case
responsible?
> I am sure they would just deny doing it but it never
leaked before it
went
> to them.
>
> Any advice on how I
should pursue this? thanks in advance.
Transfer case failure is an
extremely dangerous situation. 4-wheel lockup
while
moving in
traffic at freeway speeds can cause accidents or even fatalities.
That is why
Mitsu has a recall TSB on leaky transfer cases.
If the JB Weld repair
were done prior to the engine/clutch job, a
responsible,
competent shop
should have detected this and informed you that repair did
not
work, that
the transfer case was leaking, and they should have suggested
that
you
replace the transfer case before driving.
Do you remember if there was a
leak prior to the engine/clutch work? If so,
the
JB Weld repair
attempt could have been performed by the seller. However
if
you
never had a leak before, it seems very unlikely to me that the
repair were
done
prior, there was no leak prior, and the leak developed
within the 3 weeks
after
the engine/clutch work. Most likely, the
place that did your engine/clutch
dropped your transfer case, cracked it
severely, and attempted the repair
(UNLESS you had a leak
prior).
Whoever attempted this repair put your life and the traffic
around you in
great
danger. Regardless if it were the seller or the
shop, it would probably
take a
lawsuit to get any remediation even though
you would win. Unless you are
ambitious and don't mind going to court
(or threatening to go to court), you
should consider yourself lucky and
replace the transfer case with an $850
rebuilt unit.
- --
Forget world
peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 18:00:17
-0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fluid leak near diff?
At 08:45 PM 9/4/00 , Ken Stanton
wrote:
>Hello all!
>
>Could this be from my AWS system?
What is up there that is likely to leak?
>All help
appreciated!
Ken,
For the longest time i was losing power steering
fluid. There was never a
puddle under my car so i couldn't figure out where
it was going. One day i
noticed a puddle under my differential, so i
investigated........It turned
out that the rear steering pump (which is
driven off the gears in the diff)
was leaking fluid through the seal in the
shaft, into the diff case. When
the fluid level in the diff got high enough,
it started spewing out the
breather, which is at the top of the diff.. A
couple months after replacing
the pump, the diff started making noise and i
then replaced it too. I don't
know if the two problems were related, but i
would guess it's not good for
the LSD to be submerged in ATF (PS
fluid).
I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's worth checking
out.......
Wayne
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 21:14:46
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fluid leak near diff?
Wayne,
What kind of noise did the
diff make, by chance?
Ken
Wayne wrote:
> At 08:45 PM
9/4/00 , Ken Stanton wrote:
> >Hello all!
> >
>
>Could this be from my AWS system? What is up there that is likely to
leak?
> >All help appreciated!
>
> Ken,
> For the
longest time i was losing power steering fluid. There was never a
> puddle
under my car so i couldn't figure out where it was going. One day i
>
noticed a puddle under my differential, so i investigated........It
turned
> out that the rear steering pump (which is driven off the gears in
the diff)
> was leaking fluid through the seal in the shaft, into the diff
case. When
> the fluid level in the diff got high enough, it started
spewing out the
> breather, which is at the top of the diff.. A couple
months after replacing
> the pump, the diff started making noise and i
then replaced it too. I don't
> know if the two problems were related, but
i would guess it's not good for
> the LSD to be submerged in ATF (PS
fluid).
>
> I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's worth
checking out.......
>
> Wayne
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 21:26:55
CDT
From: "Dan Erick (3SI #889)" <ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Cooling Question
I thought I heard somewhere that all the
scoops and vents on these
cars were functional, I can see that the front ones
are, but I looked at the
vents on the side that are supposed to cool the
rear breaks and I can't seem
to find any place in the wheel well that allows
air to flow in...
Also, does anyone have any opinions on the whirring noise
I'm getting? I
wrote "Re: Team3S: ECU fixed! =) New questions..." on 9/2/00
but haven't had
any replies. Thanks!
Dan Erick
Firestorm Red 92
Stealth R/T TT
K&N FIPK
http://vr4.cjb.net/
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Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 00:04:57
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Cooling Question
> I thought I heard somewhere that
all the scoops
> and vents on these cars were functional, I can
>
see that the front ones are, but I looked at the
> vents on the side that
are supposed to cool the
> rear breaks and I can't seem to find any
place
> in the wheel well that allows air to flow in...
Nope, the
rear "scoops" are purely cosmetic on all years of both 3000GT
and
Stealth.
> Also, does anyone have any opinions on the
>
whirring noise I'm getting? I wrote "Re:
> Team3S: ECU fixed! =) New
questions..." on
> 9/2/00 but haven't had any replies. Thanks!
I
recall seeing the question, but the question was too vague or else I
didn't
personally have anything to comment about on it. So at least it made
it
out to the List.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 07:37:25
-0400
From: ukyo@avana.net
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Cooling Question
Are you positive they are only
cosmetic? On my '97
3000GT both the upper and lower rear "scoops" have
entrance "holes" in the black part that pass into the
wheel well, they
then have an exit vent that funnels
air into (maybe around?) the rear
wheels.
Anyone else have these entrance / exits in their
rear
"scoops"?
- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK /
Red)
> > I thought I heard somewhere that all the scoops
>
> and vents on these cars were functional, I can
> > see that the
front ones are, but I looked at the
> > vents on the side that are
supposed to cool the
> > rear breaks and I can't seem to find any
place
> > in the wheel well that allows air to flow in...
>
> Nope, the rear "scoops" are purely cosmetic on all
years of both
3000GT and
> Stealth.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 09:15:54
EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Re: How much HP to get a VR4 into the 11's?
Matt, Nobody that I know
disagrees with the altitude correction factor. We
had this discussion before
and all decided to use the Time Slip Time. And we
could say, add, or comment
that with the altitude correction it would be so &
so. Fine. As long as
the time slip time is the one posted. Your time was
posted to the list
without any reference to altitude corrected nor was the
time slip time
posted at all. Sorry, this is the wrong way to list it and the
cause of this
discussion. I realize you never made the original post and
there is no need
to defend altitude corrections. As long as they are properly
posted.
BTW,
you run some great times and I look forward to your messages.
Thanks
Arty
In a message dated 9/5/00 7:02:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
matt@dynamicracing1.com
writes:
<<
I am just so sick of defending those time to
people that have never run a
car at high altitude. I am sick of it! if
altitude did not rob HP. NRHA
would not have a a correction factor, end
of story! thy do because it is not
fair for people like me to haf to
drive 1000 miles to a track at 0ft (or
close to it). So all of
you that say the corr. times are BS tell that to
all the guys out here
that I see every week at the track in C5 vets that
cant brake out of
the mid 14's and the vipers that cant get past 13.5 even
with
slicks!
this point will be moot wen my are is dun and I take
the the 1000mile trip
back to Houston and run it out there:)
>>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 09:38:35
-0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Cooling Question
I have these "scoops" on my '96 VR-4
also. They don't appear to be able to
flow much air though. I
guess a little flow may be better than no airflow
at all.....but given the
size of the holes, probably not by much.
Mark '96 VR-4
'96 YZF
600R
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of ukyo@avana.net
> Sent:
Wednesday, September 06, 2000 07:37
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake Cooling Question
>
>
> Are you
positive they are only cosmetic? On my '97
> 3000GT both the upper
and lower rear "scoops" have
> entrance "holes" in the black part that
pass into the
> wheel well, they then have an exit vent that
funnels
> air into (maybe around?) the rear wheels.
>
> Anyone
else have these entrance / exits in their
> rear "scoops"?
>
>
--Travis
> '97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK / Red)
>
> >
> I thought I heard somewhere that all the scoops
> > > and vents
on these cars were functional, I can
> > > see that the front ones
are, but I looked at the
> > > vents on the side that are supposed
to cool the
> > > rear breaks and I can't seem to find any
place
> > > in the wheel well that allows air to flow in...
>
>
> > Nope, the rear "scoops" are purely cosmetic on all
>
years of both 3000GT and
> > Stealth.
> >
> >
-Matt
> > '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
> ***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 08:59:28
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Cooling Question
> I have these "scoops" on my '96
VR-4 also. They
> don't appear to be able to flow much air
though.
> I guess a little flow may be better than no
> airflow at
all.....but given the size of the
> holes, probably not by
much.
The holes are only enough to reduce some of the drag induced by
putting the
"ducts" there in the first place, they don't get piped to the
brake rotor or
anything useful like that. There's way more airflow
going by the brakes
just from the movement of the car than what makes it
through those dinky
little holes.
So I revise my statement:
There are holes there in some years, but they
aren't "functional" in the
respect of cooling anything that needs to be
cooled. In order for that
you would need some ducting in there that
attached right up near the rotors
and be attached to the suspension arm to
follow the wheel through its
travel. You could make something, but I think
the front brakes are a
much higher concern than the rears.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 10:50:44
-0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Transfer case
I cracked an aluminum (5-speed) transfer case, and it kept
leaking shockproof
gear oil for weeks. Ran the car HARD at Road America
for Porsche
driver school event, just had to top it off/refill after every
half-hour session on
track. Got home, removed it, saw the crack; looked
at gears inside and they
looked GREAT. I WAS going to have it properly
WELDED for repair, but
went to dealer and they exchanged it under warranty so
did that instead.
JB weld IMO is great but NOT as strong as aluminum
welded repair here.
If the gears look good I would not hesitate to have a
competent welding shop
repair the case and reuse it. Crack was at the
rear driverside lower bolt
next to where the tailshaft extension bolts onto
the transfer case box
itself. Looks like a thinner area with some sharp
machining nearby leading
to stress risers and probably common crack
area.
6 speed cars went to cast iron xfer case, undoubtedly this is major
reason.
Jack Tertadian
Ken Middaugh wrote:
> > I
removed my transfer case after it froze up last week. I have had my
car
> > back from an complete engine replacement\rebuild for about 3
weeks. Once I
> > got it off I found that the transfer case
casing was cracked and someone had
> > tried to put some JB Weld or
similar adheasive on it to stop it from
> > leaking. Well it
didnt stop the leak and my case locked up due to lack of
> > lube.
Bearings are all trashed. its a mess. My output shaft from the tranny
>
> shows some wear as well.
> > Can I hold the shop that removed and
replaced the engine, tranny and x-fer
> > case responsible?
>
> I am sure they would just deny doing it but it never leaked before it
went to
> them.
> > Any advice on how I should pursue this?
thanks in advance.
>
> Transfer case failure is an extremely
dangerous situation. 4-wheel lockup while
> moving in traffic at
freeway speeds can cause accidents or even fatalities.
> That is why Mitsu
has a recall TSB on leaky transfer cases.
> If the JB Weld repair were
done prior to the engine/clutch job, a responsible,
> competent shop
should have detected this and informed you that repair did not
> work,
that the transfer case was leaking, and they should have suggested that
>
you replace the transfer case before driving.
> Do you remember if there
was a leak prior to the engine/clutch work? If so, the
> JB Weld
repair attempt could have been performed by the seller. However if
you
> never had a leak before, it seems very unlikely to me that the
repair were done
> prior, there was no leak prior, and the leak developed
within the 3 weeks after
> the engine/clutch work. Most likely, the
place that did your engine/clutch
> dropped your transfer case, cracked it
severely, and attempted the repair
> (UNLESS you had a leak
prior).
> Whoever attempted this repair put your life and the traffic
around you in great
> danger. Regardless if it were the seller or
the shop, it would probably take a
> lawsuit to get any remediation even
though you would win. Unless you are
> ambitious and don't mind
going to court (or threatening to go to court), you
> should consider
yourself lucky and replace the transfer case with an $850
> rebuilt
unit.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 09:09:33
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer case
> There was no leak before it went to them
and I personally with the help of
> another member here replaced the
clutch last Feb. There was no leak and
> there was no jb weld gooped
on it. I called the shop that did the engine
> swap and they told me
they saw the jb weld but there was no leak so they
> didnt feel they had
to tell me. When I pointed out to them that it was
> leaking when I
picked it up and I even had the mechanic put it on a hoist to
> see the
leak he said he thought that they DID inform me the transfer case
> had a
crack and had been repaired. They flat out deny damaging or trying to
>
repair the trnasfer case.
>
> 1. They admit that they knew it was
damaged but never informed me.
> 2. They knew it was leaking when I took
it.
> 3. They told me they tightened up the bolts and not to
worry.
> 4. I know this damage and repair did not exist before it went to
them
>
> They had no problem pointing out EVERY other little thing
that was wrong
> with the car. Everything they mentioned I had replaced or
repaired. It
> basically comes down to my and my witness's word against
theirs. less than
> $1000 in repairs.
>
> PS, thanks
for letting me vent. I know this isnt exactly a tech issue but I
> dont
have very much experience dealing with shops and I dont know where to
> go
for help.
Like I speculated, you are right and you deserve to have them
fix/replace it
free of charge. However it will most likely take a
lawsuit to get them to
budge. Still, you should document the experience
and notify the Better Business
Bureau of how they mistreated you.
The
only other thing I can think of is to write them a letter: tell them the
last
time you and a witness personally saw the transfer case and it's
condition,
indicate that no one else had worked on that part of the car until
they did,
that you know THEY damaged it and any court of law will agree with
you and would
most likely award you punative damages, that the cost of a
rebuilt unit is $850
from MD Auto, that they should pay for it in full, that
transfer case failure is
extremely dangerous and sometimes leads to fatal
accidents, that they are
extremely lucky that you didn't get in an accident
that resulted in major
property damage or a fatality as a result of their
mistake that they blatantly
tried to "cover up", that they are very lucky
they can avoid a lawsuit and
notification of the Better Business Bureau by
"coming clean" and only paying
$850 for a rebuilt transfer case to correct
their mistake.
Allright, other ideas I can think of is you try to find an
attorney that would
take your case on contingency for a fraction of the
punative damage award.
Finally, you can take them to small claims court
yourself.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize
using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 12:36:09
-0400
From: Rudy Morales <rumcu@cunyvm.cuny.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine compatibility
Greetings,
Anybody knows what (DOHC)
engine years are "drop in" compatible between the
3000 and the
Stealth?
Does it matter if the tranny is auto or manual?
I have a
91 Stealth ES (DOHC) with an automatic tranny and someone has
offered my a
DOHC engine from a 92 3000 GT.
Thanks.
Rudy Morales
91 Stealth
ES
In "Learning" Mode
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 13:06:23
EDT
From: TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Won't Idle right??
hey guys...
When my car is in neutral it idles
constantly at 2k rpm... but if i lower the
idle on it.. when i come to a
redlight it doesn't want to idle at all..
also.. if i put the car in neutral
it will idle up and down in rapid
sucession.. anyone know what this might
be?
Jeff
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 12:39:32
-0600
From: "Jon Bach" <bach@rt66.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Won't
Idle right??
Again, since I don't have a lot of experience with any of
Mitsu's V6's, I
could be wrong here, but this is what I know from my
experience from my DSM.
On a DSM there is an idle speed control motor (ISC
motor). They are well
known to just flake out on you. Easy symptoms of a dead
one are idle surge
(idle fluctuating up and down), and just plainly high
idle. Try turning on
the Air Conditioning. What the motor also does is it
makes the car idle
higher to compensate for the extra power loss from the
A/C. If you turn on
the A/C and the idle jumps straight down to like 500 rpms
or so, then it's
probably a dead motor. Thing that sucks though is that they
are really
expensive ($200-$300 range).
On a Stealth/3000GT for idle
control, does it have a screw you would just
screw in to lower idle and back
out to raise idle? If they do make sure
there is an o-ring around the hole or
that will definately cause it. If you
have one make sure that it's in good
shape. Otherwise just go to a hardware
store and pick one up for 50
cents.
Hope that helps
Jon Bach
'91 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
>
hey guys...
>
> When my car is in neutral it idles constantly at 2k
rpm... but if i lower
the
> idle on it.. when i come to a redlight it
doesn't want to idle at all..
> also.. if i put the car in neutral it will
idle up and down in rapid
> sucession.. anyone know what this might
be?
>
> Jeff
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 16:08:59
EDT
From: Zeoswolf@aol.com
Subject:
Team3S: <FOR SALE>
Hello 3/S family!
I have a set
of 4 bridgestone Blizzak winter tires for sale! they are
almost BRAND
new! They were on my car when I bought it and the guy said they
only
had about 5000 miles on them. Brand new these tires go for well over a
$100 a piece, but since I don't plan to use my car in the winter time, I am
selling them for $200 plus whatever it costs to ship them to the
buyer. Give
me an email if you are
interested!
james
94R/T
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 16:55:21
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Stealth for sale
Hello everyone!
No, this isn't mine!!!!!!
A
friend of a friend from work is selling his car and I met him, real
nice
guy... if anyone is interested and doesn't live in the area, I will
check out
the car for you if you like! Email me privately about
that,
please...
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T
80k
miles
$6900
"Arrest Me" Red
3.0L DOHC (222hp)
5-speed manual
ECS
(suspension)
Alloy wheels
Leather interior
Power driver seat
AM/FM
stereo w/ steering wheel controls
CD player
Power windows, locks, &
mirrors
Security system (not sure if factory/otherwise)
Very clean
New
tires
New inspection
Service records
Ken
Stanton
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 16:57:24
-0400 (EDT)
From: stealth_es@webtv.net (Jason)
Subject:
Team3S: I need ECU !!
Hello
again,
After pulling out my ecu and taking it apart I see
light damage to a
capacitor. I took it to a few electronics repair shops
and they can't tell
the value of the part to replace it. Does any body
work on these computers
that I can send a picture to. So I can see if
it's fixable. Also anybody know
where I can get a ecu?? (91 Dodge
Stealth ES (non-turbo) thanks
again
Jason J.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 6 Sep 2000 15:51:43
-0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 93+ TT engine parts
Yellow Freight is finaly paying me for the
cracked casting on my new shortblock. They are demanding the damaged
block so that they can sell it for salvage. This block has brand new,
crank, rods and pistons for a 93+ Twin turbo engine. The piston rings are
probably shot because yellow paint somehow got into cylinders.
I was
thinking of buying these parts because I know Yellow will just sell them to the
nearest junkyard.
I anyone interested in these parts? I also have
all parts needed to convert a 2bolt main engine to a 4-bolt main engine,except
for a good block.
Email me privately if interested.
John
Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com
_______________________________________________________________________
Free
Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html
_______________________________________________________________________
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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End of team3s V1
#258
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