team3s           Tuesday, September 5 2000           Volume 01 : Number 257




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 22:58:13 -0400
From: BigKahuna <basara@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: 1992 Dodge Stealth RT question

Can anyone tell me where a fuse is located for the power door locks?
I was installing a Viper alarm(keyless entry part) and I think I blew a
fuse. Any ideas or input is appreciated.
Thank you.


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 23:45:32 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fluid leak near diff?

Hello all!

I noticed today there is some fluid on the underside of my
differential... looking closer, it seems to be coming from above.  Could
this be from my AWS system?  What is up there that is likely to leak?
All help appreciated!

Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
K&N, Snake Eyes, plates 007 KEN
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)


_________________________________________________________
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 20:45:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fluid leak near diff?

There is a shaft that exits the diff, that runs the pump for the rear
steering.

That could be it, or it could be a fluid line to/from the pump.

On Mon, 4 Sep 2000, Ken Stanton wrote:

> Hello all!
>
> I noticed today there is some fluid on the underside of my
> differential... looking closer, it seems to be coming from above.  Could
> this be from my AWS system?  What is up there that is likely to leak?
> All help appreciated!
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White RT/TT
> K&N, Snake Eyes, plates 007 KEN
> Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 23:52:47 -0400
From: BigKahuna <basara@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: Power door lock fuse?

I have a 1992 Dodge Stealth RT. Can anyone tell me where I can find the
fuse for the power door locks?
I think it's blown. Soryy if this message comes thru twice.
Thanx for any help!


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 00:10:50 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo hiss??  normal?

Hello everyone

I had a friend ride in my TT the other day, and he said my turbo/boost
hiss is perfectly normal!  I rode in his VR4, and it did the same
thing!  How many of you TT owners hear a hissing sound (significantly
loud) while under boost?  Thanks!

Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
K&N, Snake Eyes, plates 007 KEN
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 23:23:10 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo hiss??  normal?

Heh, mine sorta sounds like a large hoover running :)

The big turbos I have are really loud.  About 4300rpm, hold on for the ride
:)



Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Ken Stanton
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 11:11 PM
To: Team3S Stealth
Subject: Team3S: Turbo hiss?? normal?

Hello everyone

I had a friend ride in my TT the other day, and he said my turbo/boost
hiss is perfectly normal!  I rode in his VR4, and it did the same
thing!  How many of you TT owners hear a hissing sound (significantly
loud) while under boost?  Thanks!

Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
K&N, Snake Eyes, plates 007 KEN
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 09:24:46 -0400
From: ukyo@avana.net
Subject: Team3S: Power failure

Hey guys,

After my battle over my oil gauge I now have a new
problem to conquer.  About a month ago when I got my
car back from the dealer regarding the oil gauge, there
was engine noise coming through the speakers.  I took
the car home and the noise stopped half way there.  The
next day the car struggled to crank.  I was about to
take it back to the dealer when I checked the water
level in the battery.  It was low, so I added what
turned out to be a lot more water than I thought it
would take.  I started the car back up, and it cranked
strong.  I though the problem was solved.

Yesterday around 10 p.m. I was following a friend so
she could drop her car off at a shop quite a distance
from my house.  As we were about to turn into the shop
the engine noise came back through the speakers and the
lights dimmed.  The car recovered as I turned in to the
shop parking area, so I went ahead and turned the car
off as she filled out her night drop paper work.  We
got into my car and I tried to crank it.  A weak rrurr
was all I got.  I let the key turn back and all the
lights flashed as the alarm started going off.  I
quickly hit the button to stop it.  I waited a few
seconds then tried again.  This time it was just a weak
rrurr, no flashing lights or alarm.  I turned off every
thing I could think of that would be sucking power
(dome light, fan, stereo, etc.) and tried it again. 
Rrurr, rrrurrr, rrrrurrrr, *cranked*.  I was so
relieved.  I sat there for a minute or two revving up
the engine in hopes of building the battery back up.  I
kept the stereo and a/c off all the way home, and did
not turn the car off when I dropped my friend off.  The
engine noise did not return to the speakers, but the
power gauge was lower than normal.

This morning the car cranked strong, so I am at a
loss.  Does anyone have any idea what this could be?  I
wouldn't think a poorly grounded speaker wire could
leech almost all of the power from the battery, but I
can't say that for sure.

Also, when I turn on the turn signal at night the power
gauge goes up in down in rythm with the signal (about
1/8 inch variance).  Is this normal? 

Thanks in advance for any help.

- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK / Red)

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 07:28:08 -0700
From: "Bbizo" <bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Power failure

It sounds very much like a ground wire to the engine is loose or corroded.
Check all grounding cables/straps.

> This morning the car cranked strong, so I am at a
> loss.  Does anyone have any idea what this could be?  I
> wouldn't think a poorly grounded speaker wire could
> leech almost all of the power from the battery, but I
> can't say that for sure.
>
> Also, when I turn on the turn signal at night the power
> gauge goes up in down in rythm with the signal (about
> 1/8 inch variance).  Is this normal?



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 09:14:42 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo hiss??  normal?

Slap a boost controller on it and then see if the old hiss is still too loud
for ya. :)

Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
'98 RAM

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Ken Stanton" <tt007ken@yahoo.com>; "Team3S Stealth"
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 10:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo hiss?? normal?


> Heh, mine sorta sounds like a large hoover running :)
>
> The big turbos I have are really loud.  About 4300rpm, hold on for the
ride
> :)
>
>
>
> Brad
> Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Ken Stanton
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 11:11 PM
> To: Team3S Stealth
> Subject: Team3S: Turbo hiss?? normal?
>
> Hello everyone
>
> I had a friend ride in my TT the other day, and he said my turbo/boost
> hiss is perfectly normal!  I rode in his VR4, and it did the same
> thing!  How many of you TT owners hear a hissing sound (significantly
> loud) while under boost?  Thanks!
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White RT/TT
> K&N, Snake Eyes, plates 007 KEN
> Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 09:17:40 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Leaning out the fuel mixture?

I have the same problem.  I didn't notice it before, but now that I monitor
everything with my boost controller, this is exactly what happens to me too.
I've got my boost controller set to 1 bar and if I floor it, I'm lucky to
hit .48 bar, but at 3/4 throttle or so I jump right up there to my full bar.

Confused and Dazed

Ken
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Zeoswolf@aol.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; <stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 8:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: Leaning out the fuel mixture?


> Hey 3/S family!
>    I have a question for everyone... does anyone have a problem with WOT
> basically bogging down?  It almost makes me think that the system is
running
> too rich at WOT.  I have heard if you take out some of the honeycombs (not
> the honeycomb in front of the sensor, but the side ones or the bottom one)
in
> the MAS it will fool it to making the system think it is running the same
> airflow but in actuality there is more airflow thus leaning the mixture
out
> so WOT isnt just puking fuel into the system.  Consequently better
> performance at WOT, right?  Does anyone know a PROPER way to do this?  Or
am
> I completely off base with what I think the problem is.  As a quick run
down,
> I get my best performance and acceleration at about 3/4 throttle.  As soon
as
> I put the pedal to the floor, making WOT, the car makes a whole lot of
noise
> and i see really no improvment.  PLEASE!!  Any help on this will be MUCH
> appreciated!  This is an on going problem for the past 2 months and it is
> just getting annoying that I have problems smokin' a buick(I always forget
> and slam the pedal to the floor and I sit there and wonder why I'm having
> problems keeping up with alot of cars)!!  Need to learn that right now, I
> have to stop at 3/4 to get my best performance!!  THANKS!!
>
> james
> 94R/T na
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 11:11:13 -0400
From: Rick Diogo <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: Team3S: Twin turbos for sale

All of the parts I had for sale are now gone except for this pair of
turbos.  As I said, they are brand new in the box from Mitsubishi.  If
anyone has any interest in them, please speak now or forever hold your
peace!  :)

This will be my last post on them.  If I don't get any responses they will
go out on EBAY.  I am not looking to retire off these things, I just want
to sell them for a fair price.  They were intended for my 94 R/T TT and I
think they will fit pretty much any VR-4 or R/T tt from 91 to 97 or so.  I
can even supply a set of wastegate actuators if need be.

I have both front and rear turbos.

Please respond privately.  Thanks!




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 10:29:30 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Twin turbos for sale

> This will be my last post on them.  If I don't get any
> responses they will go out on EBAY.  I am not looking
> to retire off these things, I just want to sell them
> for a fair price.

I don't think the lack of interest is necessarily due to price, but rather
that if you are going to go through all the work or expense of swapping
turbos, you might as well upgrade them since the task is so difficult.  Most
of the people on this list would probably look at a failed turbo as a great
opportunity to get larger ones...  You might have better luck on eBay than
you would here.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 10:11:00 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo hiss??  normal?

> I had a friend ride in my TT the other day, and he said my turbo/boost
> hiss is perfectly normal!  I rode in his VR4, and it did the same
> thing!  How many of you TT owners hear a hissing sound (significantly
> loud) while under boost?  Thanks!

I used to have a very loud hiss too!  In fact I thought is was a leak in one of
the lines it was so loud.  It turned out to be the line going to my SPI boost
gauge on the A-pillar.  Origianally I had it connected to an extra hose barb I
installed on the plenum (a la Bob Fontana).  When I moved the connection to a
tee off of the fuel pressure solenoid line, the hiss went completely away.

You folks with the loud hiss, do you have an aftermarket gauge connected off the
plenum?

- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 10:41:43 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case

> I removed my transfer case after it froze up last week.  I have had my car
> back from an complete engine replacement\rebuild for about 3 weeks.  Once I
> got it off I found that the transfer case casing was cracked and someone had
> tried to put some JB Weld or similar adheasive on it to stop it from
> leaking.  Well it didnt stop the leak and my case locked up due to lack of
> lube. Bearings are all trashed. its a mess. My output shaft from the tranny
> shows some wear as well.
>
> Can I hold the shop that removed and replaced the engine, tranny and x-fer
> case responsible?
>  I am sure they would just deny doing it but it never leaked before it went
> to them.
>
> Any advice on how I should pursue this?  thanks in advance.

Transfer case failure is an extremely dangerous situation.  4-wheel lockup while
moving in traffic at freeway speeds can cause accidents or even fatalities.
That is why Mitsu has a recall TSB on leaky transfer cases.

If the JB Weld repair were done prior to the engine/clutch job, a responsible,
competent shop should have detected this and informed you that repair did not
work, that the transfer case was leaking, and they should have suggested that
you replace the transfer case before driving. 

Do you remember if there was a leak prior to the engine/clutch work?  If so, the
JB Weld repair attempt could have been performed by the seller.  However if you
never had a leak before, it seems very unlikely to me that the repair were done
prior, there was no leak prior, and the leak developed within the 3 weeks after
the engine/clutch work.  Most likely, the place that did your engine/clutch
dropped your transfer case, cracked it severely, and attempted the repair
(UNLESS you had a leak prior).

Whoever attempted this repair put your life and the traffic around you in great
danger.  Regardless if it were the seller or the shop, it would probably take a
lawsuit to get any remediation even though you would win.  Unless you are
ambitious and don't mind going to court (or threatening to go to court), you
should consider yourself lucky and replace the transfer case with an $850
rebuilt unit.
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 12:46:01 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo hiss??  normal?/my car

Oh, I can't wait to put race fuel in her and turn it up. (I'm thinking
~28psi)   I'm still breaking the clutch in and doing the "fine tuning"

I will say, when she hits boost, tires break loose.  I found myself
practicing the throttle steering In the middle of a sweeper like I use to do
when I was running my Mustang.


Those of you who wanted to know about the OS Giken clutch.   (I have not
stalled it in traffic this week)   I am however only one day into the week.


Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Ken Wheeler
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 10:15 AM
To: Brad Bedell; Ken Stanton; Team3S Stealth
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo hiss?? normal?

Slap a boost controller on it and then see if the old hiss is still too loud
for ya. :)

Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
'98 RAM

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Ken Stanton" <tt007ken@yahoo.com>; "Team3S Stealth"
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 10:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo hiss?? normal?


> Heh, mine sorta sounds like a large hoover running :)
>
> The big turbos I have are really loud.  About 4300rpm, hold on for the
ride
> :)
>
>
>
> Brad
> Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Ken Stanton
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 11:11 PM
> To: Team3S Stealth
> Subject: Team3S: Turbo hiss?? normal?
>
> Hello everyone
>
> I had a friend ride in my TT the other day, and he said my turbo/boost
> hiss is perfectly normal!  I rode in his VR4, and it did the same
> thing!  How many of you TT owners hear a hissing sound (significantly
> loud) while under boost?  Thanks!
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White RT/TT
> K&N, Snake Eyes, plates 007 KEN
> Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 14:02:09 -0500
From: sjc0u812@juno.com
Subject: Team3S: APEXI SAVC-R Question

Hello to all:

I've had this new unit for just about a year now and while it works
really well, I have an odd thing going on and wondered if any of you with
the this unit could help me.

Basically, when idling, my rpm's range all over the place, from 500 to
4,800.  The car's idle feels and shows about 500 on the stock tach.  I've
pulled out the wires and double checked it all, to see if maybe I spliced
into the wrong wire and am watching an IDC measurement calibrated wrong,
but it appears to be correct as that wire is in a different connector.
The wire I tapped into is creme or tan in color in the middle 16p
connector (I have a '92 VR4), top left wire as the directions indicate.
The last time I unplugged it to check it again, it worked suddenly, but
only for a short time.  Regardless, in either case at WOT, it records the
rpm correctly.  The car runs great, and I'm real happy with this unit.
But I'd like to fix this, as it is annoying and concerns me something
else may be up.  Any ideas would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Scott
'92 VR4

Mods:
HKS Dual Mega Flow air intake
Modified precats
ATR 3" downpipe with built-in test pipe (for off-road use only, of course
;-))
HKS Dual Turbo exhaust
Alamo Y-pipe
1G DSM BOV
Spearco 980 Series Turbo Water Injection System
APEXi Indiglo SAVC-R boost controller
NGK's gapped 0.034
New OEM plug wires
BlueStar Platinum Max B1200P 800 CCA dry cell battery
Stinger Custom Pro Series multiple-output 24k gold-plated terminals
Porterfield cyrogenic-treated rotors
United semi-metallic pads
Custom short shifter
'95 18" 6-spoke chromies

In the box waiting to go on:
Ground Control Coil Over Springs with Front Camber Plates
Summit Racing PC Breather
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 13:10:13 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: APEXI SAVC-R Question

I've got the wiring diagrams at home and can tell you which one to tap into.
I just installed mine and it works fine.  Still waiting for the "learning"
mode to hurry up and learn so I'll get better boost out of it.  WOT gives me
problems in boost levels though.

Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <sjc0u812@juno.com>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 1:02 PM
Subject: Team3S: APEXI SAVC-R Question


> Hello to all:
>
> I've had this new unit for just about a year now and while it works
> really well, I have an odd thing going on and wondered if any of you with
> the this unit could help me.
>
> Basically, when idling, my rpm's range all over the place, from 500 to
> 4,800.  The car's idle feels and shows about 500 on the stock tach.  I've
> pulled out the wires and double checked it all, to see if maybe I spliced
> into the wrong wire and am watching an IDC measurement calibrated wrong,
> but it appears to be correct as that wire is in a different connector.
> The wire I tapped into is creme or tan in color in the middle 16p
> connector (I have a '92 VR4), top left wire as the directions indicate.
> The last time I unplugged it to check it again, it worked suddenly, but
> only for a short time.  Regardless, in either case at WOT, it records the
> rpm correctly.  The car runs great, and I'm real happy with this unit.
> But I'd like to fix this, as it is annoying and concerns me something
> else may be up.  Any ideas would be most appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott
> '92 VR4
>
> Mods:
> HKS Dual Mega Flow air intake
> Modified precats
> ATR 3" downpipe with built-in test pipe (for off-road use only, of course
> ;-))
> HKS Dual Turbo exhaust
> Alamo Y-pipe
> 1G DSM BOV
> Spearco 980 Series Turbo Water Injection System
> APEXi Indiglo SAVC-R boost controller
> NGK's gapped 0.034
> New OEM plug wires
> BlueStar Platinum Max B1200P 800 CCA dry cell battery
> Stinger Custom Pro Series multiple-output 24k gold-plated terminals
> Porterfield cyrogenic-treated rotors
> United semi-metallic pads
> Custom short shifter
> '95 18" 6-spoke chromies
>
> In the box waiting to go on:
> Ground Control Coil Over Springs with Front Camber Plates
> Summit Racing PC Breather
> ________________________________________________________________
> YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
> Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
> Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 13:11:38 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo hiss??  normal?

My hiss is coming from the open hole on the Apexi solendoid.  It's supposed
to vent to atmosphere and so it is.  It's normal in my case.

Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Middaugh" <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To: "Ken Stanton" <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Team3S Stealth" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo hiss?? normal?


>
> > I had a friend ride in my TT the other day, and he said my turbo/boost
> > hiss is perfectly normal!  I rode in his VR4, and it did the same
> > thing!  How many of you TT owners hear a hissing sound (significantly
> > loud) while under boost?  Thanks!
>
> I used to have a very loud hiss too!  In fact I thought is was a leak in
one of
> the lines it was so loud.  It turned out to be the line going to my SPI
boost
> gauge on the A-pillar.  Origianally I had it connected to an extra hose
barb I
> installed on the plenum (a la Bob Fontana).  When I moved the connection
to a
> tee off of the fuel pressure solenoid line, the hiss went completely away.
>
> You folks with the loud hiss, do you have an aftermarket gauge connected
off the
> plenum?
>
> --
> Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


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Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 16:12:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: stealth_es@webtv.net (Jason)
Subject: Team3S: ECU

Where is our ECU at ?
91 Stealth ES

                                                 Jason


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Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:20:13 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECU

> Where is our ECU at ?
> 91 Stealth ES

Behind the radio.  Take off the carpeted panel on the driver's side and
passenger side of the center console and it is back near the firewall.  A
couple bolts hold it in on both sides.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 13:24:12 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ?? Lifter Noise ??

> From: Kevin Fanciulli [mailto:nebula9@home.com]
>
> This has NOT worked for me.  I have done this twice now, both
> times 4qt Mobil 1 10W30 / 1qt Quaker State 4x4 Synthetic-blend ATF. 
>
> I have also tried the BG fuel injector cleaner, as well as
> the GM EOS in the crankcase (as recommended by a fellow list
> member who this  worked for).
>
> Neither of these helped the ticking whatsoever.
>

Just as something else to think about...  I have wondered if my
ticking last year was really lash adjuster (we don't really have lifters)
ticking or not.  Mine got progressively worse over a couple of months last
summer, eventually to the point that I was embarrassed to drive through
quiet residential areas or any kind of drive-thru.  Needless to say, it was
LOUD.  I tried a bunch of stuff and eventually got it to go away, BUT I
don't know exactly what fixed it, nor do I know for sure what the noise was.
I can make a rational, logical argument that it was indeed the lash
adjusters and that some of the things I did would have remedied the problem.
However, I can also (I think) make a reasonable argument as to the
cause and solution that has nothing to do with the lash-adjusters.  As some
of you know, I recently discovered a large quantity of carbon deposits in my
cylinders.  I measured compression at 240+ in all 6 cylinders, even though
the senior mechanic (who I know is knowledgeable about 3000's and cars in
general) said that kind of compression "is not possible" in our engines.  I
don't know - I just read the gauge and saw it progressively approach 180psi
in all 6 cylinders as I cleaned them out.  But I digress.  The point is,
that if I actually had enough carbon in on the piston tops to cause
excessive compression, I believe it may be possible that the noise I heard
was not the lash adjusters, but valve-piston interference.  I can't prove
it, but I think it's a possibility.  I have heard NO ticking whatsoever
since I cleaned out my cylinders, even upon startup when lash adjuster
ticking is known to occur occasionally in normal engines.
I would think that valve interference would be more likely to occur
in the NA cars (I assume that the piston gets closer to the valves in the
higher-compression engines), but I suppose it could happen in TTs as well.
A compression check on the front bank will take you 30 minutes, and could at
least rule out interference noise, so it might be worth your while (I'm
curious, too).  Also, if anyone has a comment about 240psi of compression
being "not possible" in the NA 10:1 engine, I'm curious about that, as well.
I'd think that with enough carbon build-up on the pistons, any compression
value would be possible up to the point where the pistons start hitting the
valves and bending them.

- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          75,000 mi
   Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
   Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
   K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla               68,000mi
- -------------------------------------------------------------


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Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 14:10:22 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Turbo hiss and Apexi installation

> My hiss is coming from the open hole on the Apexi solendoid.  It's supposed
> to vent to atmosphere and so it is.  It's normal in my case.

The Apexi solenoid should not hiss if installed correctly.

Most folks install the solenoid as described on the bottom diagram of page 40 of
the Apexi Operation and Installation manual (this is what Matt was trying to say
:)).  The wastegate actuators should be connected to common port of the
solenoid.  The pressure source, i.e. the hose from the y-pipe, is connected to
the normally open port.  When the solenoid cycles, the wastegates either "see"
the pressure source from the normally open port, thus actuating the wastegates,
OR the wastegates "see" atmosphere pressure from the normally closed port and
are not actuated thus allowing boost to build. 

In your installation, you substituted the stock boost control solenoid with the
Apexi solenoid.  For this type of installation to work correctly, you will need
to make the Apexi solenoid "look" like the stock solenoid, i.e. you will need to
cap off the normally open port.  Then the hoses that were on the stock solenoid
should connect to the common and normally closed ports of the Apexi solenoid.
Although no one has done an installation like this yet, it should work fine, as
long as you cap off the normally open port.  Otherwise it will hiss since you
will essentially have a breech in the vacuum line system.

Below is a good description by Jeffrey Young on how the stock vacuum system
works:
<<<
Let's see if I can describe the operation of those hoses for you.   The turbo
wastegates (the things that open to
reduce boost and close to increase boost) run on a positive pressure.  At 6.X
lbs. they open and vent the exhaust gas
past the turbine wheel and drop the boost.  The front and back turbo castigates
are connected to 2 of the connections
at the 4-way connector.  The third connection is from the y-pipe (before the
throttle body).  This provides the positive
pressure that is used to open the wastegates.  The fourth connection goes to the
boost control solenoid on the fire
wall.  The other side of the boost control solenoid is connected to a negative
pressure (right in front of the rear turbo's
intake...sucking air in). 
 
When your car want to make boost, the control solenoid opens up and draws the
positive pressure created by the
y-pipe connection off, keeping the wastegates closed (and making boost).  When
the ECU decides that enough boost
has been made, it closes the control solenoid, pressure from the y-pipe
connection builds to 6.X lbs. and opens the
wastegates (releasing boost).
>>>

Good luck,
Ken
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

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Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 17:23:31 -0400
From: "Ukyo[T]" <ukyo@avana.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Leaning out the fuel mixture?

My '97 3000GT Base coupe does the same thing.
If I stomp it, there is a lot of noise, but little to no
increase in speed.  If I hit about 3/4, the car will just
take off.  As long as I ease in to WOT it will pull the
whole way, but stomping it only makes the car noisy.

- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK / Red)



>Hey 3/S family!
>   I have a question for everyone... does anyone have a problem with WOT
>basically bogging down?  It almost makes me think that the system is
running
>too rich at WOT.
>
>james
>94R/T na




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